A Taste of Scotland in Food and Pictures

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Technological University Dublin ARROW@TU Dublin

Cookery Books Publications

1995

A Taste of Scotland in Food and Pictures

Theodora FitzGibbon

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A TASTE OF SCOTLAND Scottish Traditional Food

THEODORA FITZGIBBON

Period photographs specially prepared by George Morrison

LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS First published 1970 by J. M. Dent and Sons Ltd. This edition published 1995 by Lindsay Publications, Glasgow

ISBl'\ 1 898169 05 5

For Kitty Forbes, with love and many thanks from us both

CONDITIO S OF SALE This book shall not, by way 01" trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out or otherwise circulated without the publisher's prior consent, in any I"orm ol"binding or cover other than that in which it is p Iblished and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. The book is published at a net price, and is supplied subject to the Publishers Association Standard Condition 01" Sale registered under the Restrictive Trade Practices Act, 1956.

Printed and bOt/nd in Great Britain by Cromt/;ell Press Limited ACK OWLEDGEME TS

I wish to thank all the friends who have helped me in my research, Photographs on pages 3, 4, 7,14,31, 51, 61, 69, 70, 83, 84, 95,100,103,105, particularly Miss Kitty Forbes for family papers, photographs and books, Sir are reproduced by kind permission ofDr I. F. Grant and the Central Public John Forbes, Bart and Lady Forbes, of Allargue, Corgarff, Aberdeenshire, Libraly, Edinburgh: on pages 11, 22, 49, 67, 87, 90, 98, 107, 111, 116, by for the loan of family photographs; also Or I. F. Grant for many of the kind permission of the Central Public Library, Edinburgh. Photographs on remarkable photographs shown in this book. pages 26, 37, 38, 40, 58, 76, 79 are reproduced by kind permission of the ational POItrait Gallery, Edinburgh. My thanks are also due to the following people for the kindness and help in Photographs on pages 33, 64, 81, 119 from the George Washington the preparation of this book: Miss Dickson, 1y1.rs Anl1Strong and Mr C. S. Wilson Collection, by kind permission of the Aberdeen Central Public Minto of the Central Public Library, Edinburgh, for their valuable Library, Aberdeen. assistance; Miss Elsp th Yoe and Mr Mervyn Lloyd of the National Library Photographs on pages 72 and 97 from the Cathcalt Collection, and 112 of Scotland, Edinburgh, both of whom went to great trouble for me; Mr from the Ctllwen Collection, by kind permission of the National Museum of R.E. IIutchison and Mr I.F. Hunter, of the ational Portrait GalIely of Antiquities of Scotland, Edinburgh. Scotland; Mr Fenton and Mr John Baldwin of the ational Museum of Photograph on page 43 is reproduced by kind permission of The Royal Antiquities of Scotland; Mr William Hood, Kirkcaldy Alt Gallelies; Mr D. Commis ion on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, M. Torbet, FLA, Central Public Libnuy, Dundee; Mr orman Crawford, Edinburgh. Arbroath Public Libnuy; Miss Cruft and Mr J. Dunbar, MII, FSA, Ancient Photograph on page 45 is reproduced by kind permission of the Arbroath and Historical Monuments of Scotland; Miss Moira Wilkie, FLA, Aberdeen Public Library, Arbroath. Public Library, who supplied not only photographs but also historical details; Mr Hobert Blair Wilkie, Old Glasgow Museums, Glasgow, for his The photograph of Thomas Carlyle, page 62, by kind permission of Mr kindness and help; and finally Mr Peter Leith of Stenness, Orkney, for his William IIood, Kirkcaldy Art Galle,y and Museum. co-operation and the kind loan of the late Mr William IIourston's (of Photograph on page 93, by kind permission ofT. & R. Annan & Sons Ltd, Stromness, Orkney) photographs, pages 55 and 89. Glasgow. Note for American Users

Th AmeJican pint is 16 fluid oz., while the British Pint i 20 fluid oz. The American Tablespoon holds 14.2 ml while the British 17.7 ml. The teaspoon measure is th same in both countries.

A General Guide

80z flour = 2 112 cups. Plain flour is known as All-purpose flour and Self-Raising Flour is known as All-purpose self-raising flour.

80z oatmeal, fine or medium = 2 cup

80z Pinhead oatmeal = 2 112 cups and is known as lJish oatmeal.

80z sugar, granulated, castely = 1 1/4 cups

80z butter = 1 cup

80z suet = 2 cups 20fl oz =2 112 cups Self polrail ofMr. Aird, 1885, aged thity-nine yeGl~~, photographer ofplates 011 pages 11, 67, 98, 107 Index

Adelaide 'Sandwiches, 92 Petticoat Tails, 20 Dulse, 2 Haggis, 59 Arbroath Smokies, 44 Shortbread, 117 Dumplings, See Skirlie, 80 Hairst Bree. See Hotch-Potch, 94 Atholl Brose, as a dJink, 96 Caledonian Cream, 91 Dundee Cake, 1 Ham, to cure. See Mutton-hams, 23 as a dessert, 96 Caper Sauce. See Boiled Gigot of Marmalade, 42 Ham and lladdie, 44 Mutton, 106 Edinburgh Rock, 66 Hare and Pork, Galantine of. See Bannoc:ks (traditional), 102 Cheese Potato Cakes, 15 Egg Sauce. See abbie- law, 10l Venison and Pork, Galantine reference to, 1 Chicken, I lowtowdie, 63 Eggs, 'Drappit'. See !lowtowdie, 63 of, 82 Selkirk, 78 toved,27 Scotch or Scots, 24 Herrings, fried in oatmeal. ee Baps, 92 Chocolate Cake, 75 Solan goose, 68 Trout flied in Oatmeal, l2 Barley Broth. ee Scots Broth, 36 Clam and Onion Stew. See Mussel pickled or potted, 60 Beef collops. See Minced Collops, 6 and Onion Stew, 10 Finnan Haddock (Iladdie), 44 potted. See Potted Trout, 104 ColJops-in-the-Pan,47 Clapshot, 88 See also Cullen Sldnk, 113; Het Pint, 59 Calantine of. See Galantine of Coalfish. See Fish Soup, 50 !lam and !laddie, 44 Hogmanay, foods for, etc., 48, 59 Venison and Pork, 82 Fish Soup, 50 Honey Cakes, 71 to cure. See Mutton-hams, 23 Cock-a-Leekie, 28 Forfar Bridies, 73 See also Atholl Brose, 96 Beetroot Salad, and sauce for, 86 Cockle and Onion Stew. See Fritters, crab, lobster, fish. See Hotch-Potch, 94 Black Bun, 48 Mussel and Onion Stew, 10 almon Fritters, 109 Ilotwater pastry. See Mutton Pies, Cod with Mustard Sauce, 88 73 'Blawn' fish. See peldings, 101 Galantine of Beef, or Hare and Codling. See Cabbie-Claw, 101 Howtowdie, 63 Bloaters. See Herrings, 60 Pork. Collops-in-the-Pan, 47 \,;' Drappit eg~s', 63 Boiled Gigot of Mutton, 106 See Venison and Pork, Minced, 6 Bread, White, 5 Galantine of, 82 Scotch, 6 Wholemeal, 5 Game. See Minced Collops, 6 Icecream. See Cranachan, 16 Cranachan, 16 Bread Sauce, 115 Gannet. See Solan Goose, 68 ream crowdie. See Cranachan, 16 Broc:han. See Porridge, 65 Gigot of Mutton, Boiled, 106 Kail, Lang Kail. See Mutton-hams, and aledonian Cream, 91 Broonie,54 Girdle or griddle cooking. See 23 Crowdie, See Cranachan, 16 Brose, Atholl, 96 Bannocks, ]02 See also Tartan-puny (porridge), rullas,32 Mussel, 10 Goose, to cure. See Mutton-hams,23 65 Crumpets, Scots. See Tea Pancakes, Broth, Scotch or Scots, 36 See also Solan Goose, 68 Kippers. See herrings, 60 Butterscotch, 53 85 Grouse, roasted, 35 Cullen Skink, 113 Butte,y Rowies, 32 Guinea fowl. See Grouse, 35 Lamb, Boiled Gigot of, 106 Cure, to: beef, duck, goose, mutton, Lang Kail. See Mutton-hams, 23 Cabbie- law, 101 pork. !ladclie, Finnan, 4-( Lorraine Soup, .57 Cakes, Black Bun, 48 See Mutton-hams, 23 See also !lam and Jladdie, 44 Broonie,54 Haddock. See Arbroath Smokies, 44 l\lackerel. See lJenings pickled or Cheese Potato, 15 Diet Loaf, 99 Cullen Skink, lJ 3 potted,60 Chocolate, 75 'Drappit eggs'. See Howtowdie, 63 Finnan, 44 Mannalade, Dundee, 42 Diet Loaf, 99 Drop(ped) Scones, 110 Newhaven Cream, 77 Marmalade Sauce, 18 Dundee, I Duck, wild, with Port Wine auce, Soup. See Fish oup, 50 Mealie Pudding. See Skirlie, 80 Honey, 71 18 with 1Iam. See Jlam and Melting l\-Ioments, 41 Melting Moments, 41 to cure. See Mutton-hams, 2,) Jladdie,44 Milgnwl. See Porridge, 65 Minced Collops, 6 Salmon, Ll8 Woodcock,86 Trout Fried in Oatmeal, ]2 Mussel Brose, 10 Trout, 104 Sea-Tangle. See Seaweeds, 2 Potted, 10... and Onion Stew 10 Prawn Paste. See Shrimp Paste, 30 Seaweed Soup. 2 Turke\. See Hoastit Bubhly- Mustard Sauce, 88 Scaweeds, references to, 2, 6') J;lCk, liS ' Mutton, Boiled Gigot of, with Quenelles, 057 SelJ..;rk Bannock, 78 Tweed Kettle, 1]8 caper sauce, 106 Shortbread, 1I7 to cure. See Mutton-hams, 23 Redware,2 Shrimp Pastl', 30 Veal. See Collops and Scotch Pies, 73 Reine, it la, (Lorraine) Soup, 57 Skink, reference to. See Minced collops,6 Roastit Bubbly-Jock, 1I5 Collops,6 Venison, pasties. See FQI·far Bridies, Newhaven Cream, 77 Rolls, Buttery Howies, 32 Cullen,lI.'3 73 See also 'Baps, 92 Skirlie, 80 and Pork, Galantine of, 82 Oatcakes. See Bannocks, 102 Slake, 2 Hoast, .'39 Oatmeal. See Bannocks, 102; Saithe. See Fish Soup, SO Solan Goose, 68 Cranachan, 16; POrridge, 65; Salmon Fritters, 109 oups, it La Heine. See Lorraine, 057 Water Ice. See Pineapple Water Skirlie, 80 Potted, 1I8 Cock-a-Leelde,28 Ice. 8 toasted. See Oatmeal oup, 16 Tweed Kettle, 11 B Cullen 'kink, lJ3 Whisk-, Punch, 96 Oatmeal Soup, 16 See also Newhaven Cream, 77 Fish,50 S;'e also Atholl Brose. 96 Onion Sauce. See Mutton-hams, 23 Sandwiches, Adelaide, 92 Hairst Bree or IIotch-Potch, 9... White Bread. See \\'holenwal Oyster and Onion Stew. See Sauces: for Beetroot Salad, 86 ~Iussel Brose, 10 Bread, .5 Mussel and Onion Stew, 10 Bread, 115 Oatmeal, ]6 Wholemeal Bread, 5 Caper, 106 Scots Broth, 36 Widgeon. See Wild Duck, 18 Pancakes. See Tea Pancakes, 85 Egg, 101 Speldings, 101 Wild Duck with Port Wine Sauce, 18 Parsley Sauce, 77 Marmalade, 18 tew, Mussel and Onion (also Partridge. See Grouse, 35 Mushroom, 77 dams, cockles, oysters, etc), 10 Pastry, hot-water and short-crust. Mustard,88 Stoyed Chicken. 27 See Mutton Pies, 73 Onion, 23 Potatoees ('Stovies'), 80 Petticoat Tails, 20 Parsley, 77 Stumng, for Chicken. See Pheasant. See Grouse, 35 Port Wine, 18, 39 1l0wtowdie,6.'3 Pickled Herrings, 60 Salmon, 109 for Turkey. See Roastit Bubbly Pigeon, See Grouse, 35 Scate,88 JOck, liS Pineapple Water Ice, 8 Scallop and Onion Stew. See Skirlie,80 Pork, to cure. See Mutton-hams,23 Mussel and Onion Stew, 10 and Venison, Galantine of, 82 Scate Sauce. See Cod with Mustard Tablet, Taiblet, 05.'3 Porridge, 65 Sauce, 88 Tartan-puny. See Porridge, 605 Port Wine Sauce, 18,39 Scones, Drop(ped), ] 10 'Tatties an' lIerrin'. 'See Potato and Cheese Cakes. See Potato, IS lIenings, 60 Cheese Potato cakes, 15 Scotch, or Scots, Broth, .'36 Tea, reference la. Scones, 15 Collops,6 See lIotch-Potch, 9... Potatoes, Staved, 80 Crumpets. See Tea Pancakes, 805 Pancakes, 805 Potted Herrings. See Potted Trout, Eggs, 24 Teal. See Wild Duck, 18 104