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A LONDONER's LONDON RED WHITTEN WILFRED WHITTEN — Re\

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A LONDONER's LONDON RED WHITTEN WILFRED WHITTEN — Re\ A LONDONER'S LONDON RED WHITTEN WILFRED WHITTEN — Re\. J. A. L. Hardcastle writes: In reading the sympathetic tribute to Wilfred I to have Whitten in your last week's issue confess made to h been surprised that no reference was " book A Londoner's London." Published some thirty years ago by Messrs. Methucn, it surely must have been encouraged and appreciated by his friend E. V. Lucas. It was nevertheless " " quite different from the Wanderer and its sequels ; and in my humble opinion surpasses any other of its kind. For it not only recalls and causes to live for us the literary ghosts, the eccentrics and the artists of the past, and especially, of course, of the early nineteenth century—no mean but no unusual it also us the an achievement ; gives atmosphere of the London just before the Great War, then —as now— in spite of a far greater and baser devastation, haunted by such citizens and saturated by their personalities. " " John o' London had no merely antiquarian nose: his ready pen was not that of a reconstructive gossip-writer ; his was a mysterious chemistry through which this London atmosphere was both distilled and inhaled. He was especially happy in his and summaries ; what more chapter-titles " perfect one for dealing with the Strand than The its Street of the Sagging Purpose" ; and opening is masterly. Or again, has Bloomsbury description " been ever better epitomized than as Lords and Landladies"? Cheapsidc is humanized as the ".Street of Songs and Sixpences."' But perhaps it is the purlieus and the by-ways, vanished or persistent, the congeries and the oases which he describes most visidly, even caressingly, yet never sentimentally. At times his style rises to sheer beauty, as in his climax. It is indeed a book to be sought out, for its own intrinsic merit and for the beautiful illustra- no other tions by Mr. Frank L. Emanuel ; surely artist, except perhaps Mr. Sydney R. Jones, has ever captured London's streaming streets and backwaters o well. A LONDONER'S LONDON ^i I 111-. RISING N I VVERN AND BOOKSELLERS ROW VAS i in OLD l;ISI\(, SUN TAVERN, CHEEK BV JOWL WITH A BOOKSEL1 l ll> HOUSE, WITH ITS WO GALLERY ATOP, AND ITS OVERHANGING IN HOLVWEL1 -: I. hi WHERE YOU FORESAW GOOD DELAYS (". 9) A LONDONER'S LONDON BY WILFRED WHITTEN ("John o' London "J WITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS BY FRANK L. EMANUEL METHUEN & CO. LTD. 36 ESSEX STREET W.G. LONDON First Printed in 191 3 TO T. P. O'CONNOR PREFACE WRITER of whom the first John Murray de- manded a preface demurred to writing one. A A he him in mind of preface, said, always put " Hamlet's exclamation to the tardy player, Leave thy damnable faces, and begin !" I delay to begin only to explain that the London of these pages is not the measureless town of the guide-books : that London on which a hundred and fifty years ago Horace Walpole began a book, only to faint and fail : that London which, still earlier, had been called a county covered with houses, a description which has passed from metaphor to fact. The Londoner's true London is smaller. It is the sum of his own tracks in the maze, the town in which, by hap, he has most often eaten his bread and thought his thoughts. Samuel Butler remarks in his published note-books that he was more in Fetter Lane than in any other street of London, and that Lincoln's Inn Fields, the British Museum, the Strand, Fleet Street, and the Embank- ment came next. This is a very small London, to which my own adds the City, the northern suburbs, and those more national regions of Westminster and the Parks which may be called Everyman's. Although vii viii A LONDONER'S LONDON the reader's intimacies and my own will not be iden- tical, they will generously overlap. In Chancery Lane, in the Euston Road, in Rotherhithe, or east of St. Paul's, we may have few common memories, but we may find these in the Strand, in Regent Street, in Bloomsbury, or merry Islington. While my limiting clue has been some sort of preference or eager frequenting, I have not tried to exhaust the associations of any street or district, being satisfied to follow those great scribes who, when their subject overflowed, passed on with the useful remark that all the rest is in the book of Jasher, or in the book of Iddo the seer concerning genealogies. W. W. The Cock Tavern, Fleet Street 31 December, 1912 CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE THE VEILS OF YESTERDAY . I The Passing of Temple Bar—London in 1886—The Bearskins —Old Holborn—John Grey's Cider Cellar—Feudal Blooms- bury—Halfpenny Hatches—The Wind on the Heath—The " Bull and Bush "—Booksellers' Row—The Knife-board—The Lost Wobble—The Dignity of Carts—Leviathan in London— The Evolution of the Hansom—The Exit of Cockneyism— " " Rural Retreats— I don't like London —A Fogey's Regrets— The Advance of Bricks—How London Grows—A Suburban Highway—The Street that Was—Gipsy Hill—The Cult of Escape—The Love of London—Mr. Roker's Dear Eyes—The Spell of London CHAPTER II THE FIRST PERCH . .25 London in the Nursery—The New-comer—A Wessex Squire —Sir Joshua Reynolds—To London in a Huff—A Shy Lawyer —The Refusers—Robert Buchanan in Stamford Street— " " Come out of her, O my people "—The First Perch "— Hoxton—A Window in Islington—Charles Lamb—"Alexander " the Corrector —Abraham Newland—The Bailiff's Daughter " —The Missing Cow—Plackett's Common— Pop Goes the Weasel"— Bunhill Fields — Dining on Young's "Night Thoughts "—The Temple 'oi the Muses—Shepherdess Walk —Dodd the Dustman—Goswell Street—Claremont Square— Old Pentonville—A Noisy Saint—Carlyle and the Brickfields ix x A LONDONER'S LONDON CHAPTER III PAGE LORDS AND LANDLADIES . -54 Feudal Waistcoats—The Duke and his View—Decimus Burton and Major Cartwright—The Making of Bloomsbury— Lady Ellenborough's Flowers—Zachary Macaulay—Capper's Farm—Water-cress—A Gloomy Square—A War on Tips— The Pretender in London—Dying for a Greek Accent—A Question of Taste—Red Lion Mary—Lord Eldon's Peaches— The Field of the Forty Footsteps—Peter Pindar's Cottage—A Recipe for Old Age—The Railway Termini—Agar Town— Morrison's Pills—King's Cross and the Moscow Legend—Art for the Million—The Cottage that Never Was—St. Pancras-le- Gasometer CHAPTER IV THE CITY MAN'S CITY . -79 The Street called Broad—A Forgotten Burial-ground—Before Harley Street—Sir Astley Cooper in Broad Street—The Im- portance of being Charles—The Five Great Drugs—Dr. Gardner's "Last and Best Bedroom"—The Resurrection Men—A Home of Learning—The Devil or Dr. Bull—Mead " " and Radcliffe—Queen Anne is dead— Rejected Addresses The Rothschild—" Happy ! Me happy ? "—A Bitter Farewell —Macaulay's Playground—Death in Tokenhouse Yard—A Great Auctioneer—Jack Ellis—The Poet of Cornhill—The Hosier of Freeman's Court—Samuel Rogers in the City— Dodson and Fogg—Thackeray in Cornhill—William Wynne Ryland—The Immortal Tailor—The Cornhill Pump—" Patty- " pan Birch—The East India House—How to apply for an Appointment—A Head from the Tower—"Those that encamp toward the East "—Spitalfields—The Uttermost Parts CHAPTER V THE HOUSE-MOVING OF THE GODS . Il6 " The Euston Statuary Yards—Plastic Piccadilly— Our Old " Friend.the Pelican —Joseph Wilton—A Window in Charlotte Street—Edward FitzGerald—John Constable—Cockney Ladle CONTENTS xi PAGE " —Willan's Farm—The Coming of the Omnibus—The Green " Man —The Spread of London—The Parent of the Motor-car —The Inspector of Fishes—The Birth of Camden Town— Boy Boz—Warren Street—Cookery and Culture—" The " " Village Politicians —"The March to Finchley —A Nursery of Pugilists—The Tottenham Court Road—Bozier's Court " —Hanway Street—A Great Corner— I too am sometimes " unhappy CHAPTER VI LANE AND LABYRINTH . 138 St. Giles's Village—The Resurrection Gate—The Ballad Shop —Soho—The Author of " Lacon "—The Clare Market Laby- rinth—The Great Storm—" Ypol "—A Sinister Archway—A Night of Terrors—A Murder and its Literature—The Owl— In Search of a Mantelpiece—A Dynasty of Door-knockers— Chancery Lane and Shakespeare—Where Hazlitt talked—The " " Rolls Chapel—Ready to Decompound Evidence —The Inertia of London—A Great Corner CHAPTER VII THE STREET OF THE SAGGING PURPOSE . 159 The Mid-London Crowd—" Where's the Maypole ? "—The " " Man in the Street— Swimming the Hellespont —Street Portraiture—The Shops that Were—Doyley's—The Polite Grocers and the Mad Hatters — A Phrenologist — "The " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire —Sotheby's— Homeric Book Sales—" Milk-white Gosset "—The Vellum Cure — Roger Payne — A Faistaffian Memorandum — Art among the Ruins—Dr. Monroe's Guests—Turner's Farewell —Rowlandson and his Cronies—C.K.—Norfolk Street—Dr. Brocklesby—Garrick's Monument—Dan Leno CHAPTER VIII A WALK THROUGH EVERYMAN'S LONDON . l86 The Abbey and an Adventure—Chateaubriand—The Despoi- lers—Antiquities as Playthings—Charles Lamb—"Royalest xii A LONDONER'S LONDON PAGE Seed "—King Henry orders his Tomb—"They do bury fools "—" there Hie prope Chaucerum "—"Two feet by two "—Sir Isaac Newton—Garrick's Funeral—Byron's Home-coming- Chapel of the Pyx—The National Quarter—The Fire of 1834 —The Horse Guards' Parade—Signalling to the Fleet—The York Column—" A Shocking Bad Hat "—Cleopatra's Needle lor Waterloo Bridge—A Congress of Wounds—The Evicted Rooks—The King's Palace—Her Grace of Buckinghamshire —The Marble Arch — Hyde Park Corner — The Duke and the Statue CHAPTER IX THE STREET OF THE READY WRITERS ...
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