Patcham U3A

St. Julian’s Church, Kingston By Sea

Compiled by “ History through its Churches” Group Kingston by Sea (Kingston Buci): Origins

Kingston Buci is a small Parish sitting between the mouth of the to the south and the Lower Downs to the north. Ever since the ice age the river has been bringing up silt and depositing it, shifting it and creating a very variable coastline. By 43 AD the coastline was very close to the Manor House (now ). There is evidence of prehistoric settlement in this area, for example an iron age floor at Slonk Hill, and post holes under the Roman Villa in Southwick. Around 43 AD the Romans invaded the area, meeting with no resistance from the resident Atrebatus tribe. The two tribes established a peaceful coexistence.

The Romans introduced the iron plough, other improved implements and new plants ranging from Agrimony to vines and other vegetables. They built large villas and farm estates such as Southwick, Bignor and Fishbourne, improving the local economy and providing employment. Kingston Buci sat between the flourishing ports of Old Shoreham and Southwick and would have benefitted from all the activity.

The London to Chichester Roman road had a branch through Croydon to Southwick. There were a number of busy offshoots of this road including an old droveway passing St.Julian’s Church. This lasted until around 410 AD when the Romans all returned to Rome and were replaced by the Anglo Saxons. Evidence of their presence was confirmed in 1964 when, during excavations for a new heating system in the Church, the remains of a wooden structure dating back to Anglo Saxon times was uncovered, and deemed to be part of the earliest Church building on the site. In 680 AD Wilfred, Bishop of York came down from Northumbria to convert the local Anglo Saxons to Christianity. He remained in the area for some years.

By 1066 AD the Norman Conquest saw many ships in the Adur Channel and along the south coast. Subsequently trade developed between Sussex and Normandy, particularly the import of Caen stone which was used for the building of castles and Churches. The Domesday survey showed three entries for Kingston Buci with a total of 43 dwellings. All of these entries includes a reference to a Church. The following are taken from the Domesday Book records.

St Julian’s Church

St. Julian’s is one of the oldest Churches in Sussex. Christianity first came to the area with the Romans and there may have been a primitive wooden Church here since the early 2nd Century. The Church is dedicated to St. Julian of France who appears to have been the first Bishop of Le Mans in the 4th Century

The present building replaces one of Saxon times, as discovered during excavations for a new heating system in 1964. The south, west and north walls are late 11th Century with the tower, chancel, north aisle and south porch being added in the 13th Century

Changes in window design to admit more light were carried out in the 14th and 15th Centuries and finally the north and west walls and the new vestry were added in modern times. The interior of the Church was turned to its present north/south axis in 1988. The present font (on the left, below) dates from Norman times and is made of Sussex stone. The original cover has gone and been replaced by a 19th century one bearing a Greek palindrome:

ANOMHMATA MH MONAN (Wash my sins and not my face only)

A second, older font (above) in the vestry was found buried in the churchyard. This may have been the original Saxon font.

The piscina in the south wall has a typical 13th century pointed window arch. It probably fell into disuse in the time of the Reformation but was restored in 1987 and protected by glazed oak doors.

The north wall contains a tomb dating from around 1540. The sculptures represent a Piete on the left, the resurrection in the centre and the Trinity on the right. It also contains a carving of the ‘Kingston Devil’ hidden in the row of rosettes carved on the roof of the tomb. The tomb was later defaced by Cromwell’s soldiers. The two-decker pulpit is clad with fine linenfold panels and dates from the early to mid 16th century. It was originally placed against the north wall of the tower.

The Chancel, now the Lady Chapel, was divided from the congregation by a rood screen. The upper part has 3.5 cinque foiled arches either side of the doorway. This would have carried the rood in the centre and most probably formed the floor level of a rood loft, long gone. In the Choir (under the tower) there were originally 6 box pews. The sloping seats of the remaining two ensured that worshippers did not “drop off” - to sleep! One Is now set up for personal prayer with a candle ring while the other provides a space for young children

In the north wall of the chancel, west of the chancel arch, is a small (and now glazed) rectangular opening which splays out to a larger opening on the outer wall of the Church

On the outer wall there is evidence of a sloping roof covering a small chamber. Together these point to the existence of an “Anker-hold” or Anchorite’s cell.

The Anchorite spent their life in prayer and giving spiritual advice to pilgrims and other passers-by. When they died they were buried in the floor of the cell and the cell itself was demolished. This is one of only three known cells in Sussex.

At the west end there is a very narrow “singing gallery”, built in Jacobean style in 1924 to house the bellows of the two-manual organ built in1900 and bought in 1924 by the Rev. Sidney Swan from the Brighton Acquamarine Winter Gardens. The bellows still work but the organ was electrified in 1952.

Under the gallery is an alabaster memorial tablet to the 18 men who died in the 1914-18 war, designed by Gilbert Scott. Scott also produced plans to repair the north aisle and add a new vestry to the west of it.

An unusual feature is the singing desk, complete with its own flute which dates from the early 17th Century. Today it is used to show more recent history with examples of baptism, marriage and funeral services, the rededication of the marble war memorial in 2016 and the recent iinduction of the present Rector. Kingston Buci through the ages

The area was first settled during the Bronze Age and it was also inhabited by the Romans. At the time of the 1086 Domesday Book the area was known as Chingestone and seems to have incorporated part of what is now Shoreham. There are only three buildings left from earlier times, the Church, the Manor and the Rectory.

The manor belonged to Earl Harold but on his death it passed to William 1st who gave it to William de Broase, Lord of Bramber and a French baron. The house was rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries and the present structure was built in the 18th century. It has been significantly altered since, and is nowthe home of Shoreham College.

On his death it passed to Hugh de Bouce then through his family to Hugh de Buci and the name of the settlement was changed to Kingston Buci at about this time. The estate finally came to Edward Lewknor about 1571 and his tomb can be seen in the Church today. In 1234 AD there is the first reference to the port of Kingston Buci. The area became prosperous and workers in shipbuilding and supplies were in high demand. A well used road ran next to the Church adding to the prosperity of the area.

However the area was then decimated by the Black death of 1348- 1350, labour became difficult to obtain and farming, trade and industry were badly interrupted. By 1698 the harbour entrance had shifted 2miles east, to be opposite Kingston Buci. Smuggling became commonplace with goods taken up Kingston Lane and distributed further northwards. The great storm of 1703 resulted in the virtual destruction of Shoreham as a port with the harbour entrance shifted even further east.

Around 1840 the London to Brighton railway was extended through Kingston Buci. Sadly the station closed again in 1879. This was a period of rapid population growth. In 1801 the population numbered 77 in 14 families but this fell to 46 by 1841. However by 1851 numbers swelled to 153 possibly because of the inclusion of people living on the ships in the harbour. Another sharp rise to 245 by 1871 was followed by the doubling of the population to 545 by 1901, 1,812 by 1931 and 5,322 by 1951.

During this time the eastern arm of the River Adur was developed, boosting local trade and prosperity. The picture shows workmen outside Eversheds Soap Factory in 1890. The lighthouse was built in1846

This was also the height of the oyster fishing industry with 295 boats operating employing 740 men and 89 boys but by 1918 the oyster beds were fished out.

Kingston Buci today is part of the urban development stretching from Brighton to Worthing Some comments from group members:

“The singing desk was very mysterious. It was the first time I had heard the story of Anchorite cells”

“Fantastic little gem of a Church. Unusual Anchorite’s cell”

“A fascinating and lovely Church with many interesting features. Seen from the outside it is an unusual shape. Inside I particularly liked the box pews and the Anchorite cell. A very enjoyable and worthwhile visit”

“A lovely feeling of calm and peace in the building. Some interesting artefacts especially the organ gained at auction from the Brighton Aquarium for 40 guineas plus £400 for restoration!”