INSIDE: Siena Tour Guides 4 Recipes From Siena 6 Touring An Art Restoration Lab 7 20th-Century Art in Rome 8 Lavazza Coffee Museum 8 Valeria Merlini at work Siena Seeing Roman Art From A dream of ® New Angle am forever in search of new perspectives on Rome and its I art. In a city with endless treasures and infinite guides available, it’s increasingly rare to find a tour that gives you a one-of-a-kind publication Dream Of point of view. I was lucky enough to Volume 17, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2018 ITA LY join a Roma Experience Tour, which gave me just that.
Our Roma Experience tour guides, The INSIDER’S GUIDE to Siena Francesca and Davide, meet us in a corner of Piazza del Popolo and within f you’re traveling in the region Siena grew in importance from an minutes our small group is equipped of Tuscany, a trip to the economic, strategic, and military with headphones and a hearty dose I medieval city of Siena is a perspective until the 12th century. of intrigue. Francesca sets the scene, beautiful and quiet diversion. During the 13th and 14th whispering dramatically into her You won’t be disappointed. centuries, Siena and microphone, telling us about the Some of the most unique Florence became bitter painter, Michelangelo Merisi, famously treasures of art and history enemies, with constant known as Caravaggio. If it weren’t for await you. battles for land and power. Francesca, I would have missed the Florence eventually won masterpieces right before my eyes in Siena, originally an Etruscan over in 1555, and Siena was the Cerasi Chapel: Caravaggio’s settlement, was later incorporated as a Florentine Conversion of Saint Paul and his established as a trading post as territory. Crucifixion of Peter. part of the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages, Even with all of this conflict The perspectives of these paintings Siena’s central location served Duomo di Siena and power shifting, the are so perfectly executed that you feel it well as one of the most important period during the 12th and 13th like you are gazing into a live scene. cities in Italy, especially as the Via centuries was a time when great artists Caravaggio’s masterful grasp of Francigena, the road that served as a such as Duccio, Simone Martini and natural lighting made me forget that vital link from Rome to France, passes Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti were it was a cloudy day outside, as the nearby and has been used by pilgrims discovered and important works of art paintings felt like windows to the and travelers for centuries. were placed in Siena, including the real world. continued on page 2 continued on page 7 The center of Siena is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Insider’s Guide to Siena continued from page 1
breathtaking stained glass rose Piazza del Campo, one of the largest window. medieval squares in Italy with its
m unique shell shape surrounded by o c . r
k It is worth the ticket price to enter the restaurants with outdoor seating. This c i l f
, t
r cathedral and admire the frescoes in is a great place to sit and enjoy a spritz e b r
e the Piccolomini Library featuring the or gelato in the afternoon and people H
k n
a works of Pinturicchio and Raffaello watch while you take in the incredible r F Sanzio. Here you will also find a rare views of the Torre de Mangia and the Inside the Duomo copy of The Three Graces from Roman Fonte Gaia. times. The mosaic inlaid floor of the cathedral is so precious that it is If you’re feeling adventurous, climb covered to protect it from getting too the over 400 steps to the top of the much wear from daily visitors. It’s Torre de Mangia and you will be m
o worth timing your visit to Siena during rewarded with some of the most c . r k c i
l the period when the floor is usually incredible views of the entire city. f
, e e
r revealed during late From the top, you h t o August to October. will see the Duomo Duomo floor and out across the m o 8 c 1 Duomo, the Palazzo Pubblico and the Just across the Piazza . entire city with a r k 0 c 2 i l
f
Torre del Mangia. del Duomo from the unique panoramic r , a e n b e
cathedral is Santa i view of the winding o S
t i c d This period is commonly referred to as Maria delle Scala. For streets that curve in o r O o s
Siena’s “golden age.” However, to this centuries this was the e and out of the local T l I 2 day, people of Siena will say that it’s local hospital that Piccolomini Library neighborhoods. most devastating twist of fate was cared for and sheltered
m when the plague hit the city the poor or sick, as well as Each year, the Piazza del Campo is o c .
y in 1348 just as a grand pilgrims passing through where the long tradition of the Palio l a t i extension of the Duomo was the area. It is now a horse race takes place on July 2 and f o
m being planned. The Duomo museum where you can August 16. Notice as you walk through a e
r was never finished and the explore the history of the the various neighborhoods the statues d .
w Black Death was to blame hospital. On the ground and colorful flags that symbolize each w
w for killing around 60 percent floor, visit the Pellegrinaio, of the 17 contradas, or neighborhoods. of the population. The which served as a shelter In the days drawing up to and near the outline of the unfinished for pilgrims, the Cappella Palio, Siena comes alive as each extension of the Duomo is del Manto (Chapel of the contrada celebrates their neighborhood still evident today when you Mantle), the Sagrestia pride and anticipates their chances of visit the city. Vecchia (Old Sacristy), and winning the Palio. Torre di Mangia the Cappella della Madonna (Chapel of the Virgin The days just before the Palio include Walking The City Mary). The original sculptures the prove or trial races of the contrade One of the best ways to explore Siena by Jacopo della Quercia from the Fonte that have been drawn to participate. is on foot. Start your day with a visit to Gaia are displayed here. Also make The trial races provide a sneak peek at the Duomo with its classic green and note of the following places to visit: the which horse may be the strongest white façade and Baptistery just next Archaeological Museum with Etruscan running with great hopes and door. The elegance and gothic beauty treasures, the Children’s Art Museum, anticipation of winning. The evenings of the Duomo will take your breath the Giuliano Briganti Library and the are animated with local dinners hosted away as you reflect on the exterior Photo Library of Art. in each of the contradas with food and design with the gargoyles and saints, wine enjoyed together along long the upper façade featuring the Next, walk down the winding wooden tables. This is a once-in-a- Coronation of The Virgin, and the cobblestone streets to explore the lifetime kind of dinner, with the goal of The Republic of Siena existed weekly shopping, gossiping, and lunch or are looking for local foods to catching up for the week. take home or for a picnic later, go to the Consorzio Agrario di Siena on via m o c .
r If you happen to be in Siena in early Pianigiani. This is the farmers’ k c i l f
December, the Piazza del Campo is association of the province of Siena , a i r a transformed for several days into a and has a fantastic selection of all M
i d
o medieval style marketplace with local things only produced in the area. Here, d e r f l artisans offering their products for the you can shop for local bread, sausages, A Mercato nel Campo, or Christmas cheeses, honey and wines. Ask them to market. You’ll find wine, cheeses, make you a panino, or pick out one of meats, chocolates, honey, breads, their focaccia dotted with green olives m
o sweets and hand-crafted items that are to eat as you c . r k
c true treasures for the holiday season. explore Siena i l f
, i t
n In 2018, the Mercato nel Campo will be for the day. o P
a held on December 1 and 2 from 8 a.m. c m u l o n c . a until 10 p.m. r i k G c i l f
, n
Palio i l d u a M
Eating & Shopping 8
1
raising money for the contrada’s a i l 0 u 2 J coffers, so expect to pay about 75€ for The people of Siena are proud of their r e
the dinner experience. The celebration heritage and the traditional foods from continued on page 5 b o t lasts long into the early hours of the the area. Discover the many c morning with singing, dancing up on restaurants and cafes where you’ll find O top of their chairs, and partying. sausages made with wild boar and dream of 3 cinta Senese, as well as pecorino ®
cheeses. Traditional pasta dishes you’ll m o
Markets c .
want to try are pici cacio e pepe (see my y ITALY l
Kathleen A. McCabe a t One of the best local markets in husband’s recipe after this article), pici i Editor in Chief and Publisher f o
Tuscany is hosted in Siena each all’aglione, gnocchi and pappardelle al m a e
Wednesday morning. You find the ragu di cinghiale. Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick r d Associate Editor: Elaine Murphy . market close to Piazza Gramsci at Parco w
Design: Kim Leaird w
La Lizza from 8:30 a.m. Not to miss are the www.leaird-designs.com w until 1:30 p.m. During wines from the area as Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - market day, the streets well, including Chianti ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a around the Fortezza Classico, Brunello di year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) Medici are filled with Montalcino, costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to stalls and street Montepulciano and the more than 150 back issues and regular e-mail updates. vendors. white wine from San Three ways to subscribe: Gimignano called 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, Denver, CO 80201 Be ready to weave in Christmas market Vernaccia. For dessert, 2. Call 202-297-3708 and out of the crowds try a classic taste of 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted) of locals as you explore the various cantucci almond cookies (see another Dream of Italy and Dream of are registered stands of foods, linens, household one of my chef husband’s recipes) with trademarks of Dream of Italy, Inc. wares, cheeses, fruits and vegetables. a sweet dessert wine called vin santo. Editorial feedback is welcome. This is truly an authentic Italian Other classic sweets from the area are E-mail: [email protected] market day experience. Plan to arrive the almond ricciarelli and traditional Copyright © 2018 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights early to find a parking spot as this can panforte, which is one of the best Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - be a challenge on market day. Oh, but versions of fruit cake you’ll ever taste. mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, it’s so worth it to shop among the Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that locals as they are out to do their If you want a quick and delicious may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com from the 12th century until 1555. Insider’s Guide to Siena continued from page 3 The Details Where to Stay Where to Eat Tour Guides Culinary & Wine Experiences Palazzo Ravizza Trattoria da Dino Elisabetta Marchi Pian dei Mantellini, 34 Via Casato di Sopra, 71 (39) 348 8901331 Tuscan Wine School (39) 0577 280462 (39) 0577 289036 www.tuscanytrotter.com Via Stalloreggi, 26 www.palazzoravizza.com At this little trattoria, you’ll find nonna Rates: Half-day tour starts at 180€ (39) 331 3583823 Rates: Start at 150€ with breakfast and mamma are still cooking in the www.tuscanwineschool.com This 3-star hotel is a restored palace kitchen. Order dishes such as pici, Elisabetta has been guiding family- and offers a convenient location, ribolitta, ossobuco and cantucci with friendly tours since 2002. She offers Rates: Tastings start at 25€ for a quaint garden spaces to relax, rooms vin santo and you’ll be experiencing a Siena city tour, a Palio tour (with private tasting, 45€ for the two-hour with views of the Sienese hills, and the authentic thing! You may not hear dinner with a contrada) and a great class, or 150€ for the full day quiet spaces to enjoy an aperitivo . English spoken in this restaurant, so art tour, Siena, The Italian Gothic Art experience. be ready to try out your Italian. Elisabetta can customize The haven of wine education is locat -
8 Dream Tour. 1 Hotel La Villa 0 your tour depending on the ed in the heart of 2 Viale Vittorio Veneto, 11 r Osteria Nonna Gina
e number of people in your Siena and is a great b (39) 0577 1882807 Via Piano dei Mantellini, 2 o
t party and your personal place to stop in for c www.lavilladistr.it (39) 0577 287247 O interests and can also take anything from a quick Rates: Start at 180€ for a standard www.osterianonnagina.it you to the countryside and tasting of a few wines to a 4 room with breakfast This located just outside the osteria neighboring towns. longer day. Tuscan Wine This 3-star hotel sits just outside the city walls is famous for the giant School also offers visits to
m old city walls of Siena and features a with creamy pistachio sauce.
o gnocchi Stella Soldani
c small family owned wineries and .
y garden and breakfast room to enjoy This place is packed with locals for (39) 335 6810098 l
a food artisans in the area. t i the start and end to your busy day. lunch and dinner. Prices are great as www.sienatourguide.it f o
m La Villa is pet-friendly and can also it is located outside of the tourist Cookery School of Lella a e
r arrange spa services at San Giovanni areas. Rates: Two-hour tour starts at 150€; Via Fontebranda, 69 d .
w Terme just outside the city. cost depends on time and season. (39) 0577 46609 w Osteria Boccon Del Prete w Stella can arrange a special visit with www.scuoladicucinadilella.net Via San Pietro, 17 Hotel Athena jockey also known as Via Piazza Mascagni, 55 (39) 0577 280388 Gigi Bruschelli, who is the most success - Rates: 100€ per person for four-hour (39) 0577 286313 Located in the heart of Siena, this Trecciolino, ful active jockey in the Siena Palio class www.hotelathena.com osteria is a favorite of locals and visi - with 13 wins between 1996 and founded her Rates: Start at 200€ per night, with tors. They have a unique menu that Lella Cesari Ciampoli 2012. The tour includes a visit of cooking school in Siena in 1996. breakfast offers traditional pasta and steak. Siena, including the Contrada Here you can learn to make fresh tra - This 4-star hotel situated just outside They are also known for their unique Museum and stables along with a ditional handmade pasta typical of the old city walls and features a beau - dessert. This restaurant is usually drive to his farm to learn more about the Siena area. Lella also can teach tiful rooftop terrace, full service restau - packed, so call ahead or stop in and his life. She also offers a tour inspired you how to make and rant, and rooms with a view of Tuscan let them know you’d like a table for focaccia, pizza by the urban trekking movement. the local desserts of countryside. All the local sites are your party. ricciarelli, can - or You will enjoy the within walking distance of the hotel. tucci panforte. dishes you make along with wines from the area.
1€ = $1.15 at press time Monte dei Paschi di Siena is one “Take the street less traveled and you will be Mrewarded with ancient treasures and beauty around each corner of the city.” N
If you are interested in a classic Sienese see them out taking their passeggiata, or butcher experience, visit Pizzicheria de stroll, catching up with their friends Miccoli. Look for the stuffed wild and neighbors. Take the street less 8 boar’s head on the entrance located on traveled and you will be rewarded 1 0 2 Via di Citta, 95. The delicious smells with ancient treasures and beauty r e will draw you inside to order a platter around each corner of the city. b o t of local cheese and meats. Look for one c called ubriaco (drunken) cheese, which —Sheryl Ness O is Pecorino cheese soaked and aged in Siena storefront Sheryl Ness lived in the Chianti area for several years 5 wine. Pick out a variety of charcuterie with her husband, Vincenzo, who is a chef. Sheryl to enjoy with the cheese as you soak in you could find artisan pottery, linens, loves to write about the history, culture and traditions m o c . the culture and traditions of Siena. and household items made by locals. of the area. She is author of Love in a Tuscan y l a
Kitchen: Savoring Life Through the Romance, t Don’t forget to pick out a local Chianti Siena is also filled with many pottery i f
Recipes and Traditions of Italy. Available on o
wine to enjoy with your lunch or shops that feature local artisans. m
Amazon in Kindle and softcover. a e afternoon snack. Explore the area in and around the r d .
Baptistery behind the Piazza del w w
Duomo for many options to discover w the stunning designs and one-of-a-kind pieces. m
o If you’re tempted by a larger piece or a c . r k c
i collection of pieces, not to worry, l f
, o i almost every shop will offer a shipping z i n i
F option to get your treasures back home After lunch, stop and have a coffee for you. And, if you love Florentine standing up at the bar as the locals do leather goods, including purses, bags, at Café Fiorella located on Via di Citta, wallets and accessories, explore 13. Then stop to taste some of the best Cuoieria Fiorentina on Via di Citta, 68. ricciarelli which is at Forno il Magnifico on Via dei Pellegrini, 27. As you visit Siena, plan to experience it to the fullest. You may notice that the Shopping for local treasures is a must; locals eat late into the evening, explore Toscana Lovers-Artigianato especially in the heat of the summer. k Toscano on Via delle Terme, 33, where Before or after dinner is when you will continued on page 6 of the oldest banks in Europe. 6
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Roman Art continued from page 1 k
On the way to see the next painting, Penitente in How many of us have admired the Francesca tells us Caravaggio was a 2005 and works of art in Italy’s museums, rebel. “He was often late on rent, in Raphael’s San galleries and churches but have not trouble with the church for using Giovanni stopped to think how they can look so ‘undesirables’ as models, and involved Battista in 2012 wonderful despite their old age? in many fights. He had a duel with and 2013. Ranuccio Tomassoni right here in this Caravaggio was a rebel in his life, and neighborhood that got he still wreaks havoc centuries after his Caravaggio banished death for restorers. Valeria explains m o c
from Rome,” Francesca . that Caravaggio strayed from the r k c i l f
explains as she points typical celestial blue of the Virgin , y
s Madonna of the Pilgrims s
to a street near the e Mary and used dark pigments v y n
Basilica of Sant’Agostino e on her clothing making it F
k c i
in Campo Marzio. We r complicated to restore. “All the e d e
enter the church to r problems are on the blue!” F marvel at Caravaggio’s Cerasi Chapel Valeria shouts when asked Madonna of the Pilgrims. about the most complex part of We would later find the Madonna of the Pilgrims’ 8
out that this painting restoration. “Also, we did 1 0 2 was restored by expert View of the Merlini-Storti Lab everything on site. The church is r e
hands from the Merlini- Many labs in Rome cold in the winter. You can imagine b o t Storti Restoration Lab. have been absorbed by putting your hands in the cold buckets c the government’s to clean while you work… it’s not so O Next, Francesca leads Ministero dei Beni nice.” 7 us to the Capella A restorer mixes oil paints Culturali or have closed
Contarelli in the Church of San Luigi dei down altogether but Daniela and In another rare opportunity, the m o c .
Francesi where three of Caravaggio’s Valeria have done one crucial thing to Merlini-Storti team shows an y l a t paintings (the Calling of St. Matthew, make themselves irreplaceable; they unidentified painting under UV lights i f o
the Inspiration of St. Matthew, and the invite the public into the process, as to demonstrate the importance of m a e
Martyrdom of St. Matthew ) adorn with the on-location restoration of working slowly to remove the varnish r d .
the walls. The intricate details of Caravaggio’s Madonna of the Pilgrims in and paying close attention to detail. w w
the objects and the clothes of the the Basilica of San Agostino. White chalk dots outline the working w figures are captivating. area, and the painstakingly slow kThe team believes it is very important process ensures the restorers only “My professor told me ‘You have no to do the restorations in situ (when remove the top layer of varnish to let creativity. You are not an artist. You possible) because it is paramount to light and the three dimensionality of will make an excellent restorer,’” respect the paintings for the work shine as the artist Valeria Merlini tells our group. A what they mean to intended. Restoring Caravaggio
backhanded compliment, but this people and not hide them
VIP Rome Tour tough-love helped her rise to where away in a lab. The team at Merlini-Storti k Roma Experience Tours she is today. knows that their work is a (719) 266-2360 In their airy lab, Daniela small part of the many layers www.romaexperience.com The final leg of the tour brings us to the and Valeria show 360 of artists that have touched Price: 245€ per person Merlini-Storti Restoration Lab. Valeria degrees of the artwork. and will touch these works for Save 10% with code: Merlini and Daniela Storti, dressed in Your senses tingle with centuries to come. Luckily for DREAM10 white coats, welcome us into their lab. the smell of the varnish, us, they open their doors to let These two master restorers opened the the feel of mixing the oil the public have a glimpse into Merlini-Storti space in 2000 and have worked on paints, the sound of the the magic of restoration. Restoration Lab countless masterpieces in the studio, fans keeping the www.msrestauri.com —Danielle Abbazia including Tintoretto’s Maddalena temperature just right. lcino, pici is referred to as pinci. NEWS, TIPS, DEALS AND EVENTS G Palazzo Merulana Shines Again t’s hard to believe that what was formerly an Foundation. The young collection, which was other masters of the first half of the 20th century. eyesore on one of the most important streets in founded in 2014, holds some of the I The space of the first and second floor Rome has become a polished building of white most important work of the scuola seem to be bathed in soft, clean white walls and tall glass windows. The Palazzo movement as well as of romana light and tan sofas offers a cozy place Merulana, on Via Merulana sits between to sit and reflect, much like the way two of Rome’s major basilicas; Santa Maria you would sit to catch up with an old Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano. friend. Despite being on a busy street, Today the palazzo, the former seat of the the space inside feels unrushed and Fascist-era health offices, has reopened as calm and perfect to take in the 90 a public-private venture featuring a collec - works of the collection. tion of 20th-century art belonging to Upon entering the building, the ground Claudio and Elena Cerasi and their Cerasi floor welcomes visitors under a stun -
8 ning portico into the 1 Sala delle Sculture 0 2
spotted with sculptures from artists such as r e
b Antonietta Raphael, Lucio Fontana, Pericle Fazzini o t Lavazza Coffee Museum Opens in Turin c and Giuseppe Penone to name a few. Amongst O s the European capital of coffee culture, Italy end of the experience, guests can get their caf - these sculptures, visitors can enjoy free access to 8 Ahas a reverence for the stuff ingrained in its feine fix by trying one classic coffee drink, such as the café and bookshop before deciding to continue national fabric. Lavazza, one of Italy’s largest cof - an espresso, and one specialty drink, such as a to the other floors, which hold the heart of the
m fee brands and the fourth-largest worldwide, has coffee cocktail. Cerasi collection. o c .
y just opened a new coffee museum in Turin, where l
a The museum is part of a seven-acre, $140 million While the true beauty of the Cerasi collection t
i the brand was established in 1895. f complex housed in a former power plant on starts on the second floor, the ground floor’s o m
a Visitors to the Lavazza Coffee Turin’s industrial but gentrifying Cafeculture merits a visit too, given that it serves e r
d receive a thorough intro - outskirts. The company named top quality drinks and dishes supplied by some of . Museum w
w duction to the world of coffee the complex Nuvola Lavazza, the city’s most notable butchers, olive oil produc - w from the perspective of an Italian meaning “Lavazza Cloud,” for its ers and pastry chefs. The inviting outdoor patio off family business-turned-coffee openness and sleek modern to the side of the café has interesting sculptures giant — the company is still run design. Adjacent to the museum and a bamboo plant wall which truly transports vis - by the descendants of its founder, are an airy piazza and two itors to an isolated space far away from the busy Luigi Lavazza. The museum’s Lavazza-owned restaurants. city street just a few feet away. five themed galleries explore the Condividere, the upscale restau - —Danielle Abbazia coffee-making process from crop rant, serves food family-style — to cup, including the job duties its name means “sharing” — and Palazzo Merulana involved for coffee growers and has a separate room for dessert Via Merulana, 121 roasters, the history of coffee and and coffee. Rome Lavazza and the chemistry of cof - www.palazzomerulana.it —Elaine Murphy fee. The museum also highlights Admission: 5€ coffee’s role in Italian culture, design and cooking. Lavazza Coffee Museum Open Monday to Friday, 2 to 8 p.m.; Via Bologna, 32a Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Guests receive an cup when they enter espresso Turin Closed Tuesday the museum, which they can use to activate multi - (39) 011 123456789 CafeCulture and Bookshop (free entrance) media exhibits. Among these is a loft with 360- www.museo.lavazza.com open Wednesday to Monday, from 8:30 a.m. degree projections that immerse visitors in a virtu - Admission: 10€ to 9 p.m. al coffee plantation, a café table in a piazza, or a Open Wednesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. sea of coffee for a multisensory experience. At the Lavazza is branded as “Italy's favorite coffee.”