INSIDE: Siena Tour Guides 4 Recipes From Siena 6 Touring An Art Restoration Lab 7 20th-Century Art in Rome 8 Lavazza Coffee Museum 8 Valeria Merlini at work Siena Seeing Roman Art From A dream of ® New Angle am forever in search of new perspectives on Rome and its I art. In a city with endless treasures and infinite guides available, it’s increasingly rare to find a tour that gives you a one-of-a-kind publication Dream Of point of view. I was lucky enough to Volume 17, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2018 ITA LY join a Roma Experience Tour, which gave me just that. Our Roma Experience tour guides, The INSIDER’S GUIDE to Siena Francesca and Davide, meet us in a corner of Piazza del Popolo and within f you’re traveling in the region Siena grew in importance from an minutes our small group is equipped of Tuscany, a trip to the economic, strategic, and military with headphones and a hearty dose I medieval city of Siena is a perspective until the 12th century. of intrigue. Francesca sets the scene, beautiful and quiet diversion. During the 13th and 14th whispering dramatically into her You won’t be disappointed. centuries, Siena and microphone, telling us about the Some of the most unique Florence became bitter painter, Michelangelo Merisi, famously treasures of art and history enemies, with constant known as Caravaggio. If it weren’t for await you. battles for land and power. Francesca, I would have missed the Florence eventually won masterpieces right before my eyes in Siena, originally an Etruscan over in 1555, and Siena was the Cerasi Chapel: Caravaggio’s settlement, was later incorporated as a Florentine Conversion of Saint Paul and his established as a trading post as territory. Crucifixion of Peter. part of the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages, Even with all of this conflict The perspectives of these paintings Siena’s central location served Duomo di Siena and power shifting, the are so perfectly executed that you feel it well as one of the most important period during the 12th and 13th like you are gazing into a live scene. cities in Italy, especially as the Via centuries was a time when great artists Caravaggio’s masterful grasp of Francigena, the road that served as a such as Duccio, Simone Martini and natural lighting made me forget that vital link from Rome to France, passes Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti were it was a cloudy day outside, as the nearby and has been used by pilgrims discovered and important works of art paintings felt like windows to the and travelers for centuries. were placed in Siena, including the real world. continued on page 2 continued on page 7 The center of Siena is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Insider’s Guide to Siena continued from page 1 breathtaking stained glass rose Piazza del Campo, one of the largest window. medieval squares in Italy with its m unique shell shape surrounded by o c . r k It is worth the ticket price to enter the restaurants with outdoor seating. This c i l f , t r cathedral and admire the frescoes in is a great place to sit and enjoy a spritz e b r e the Piccolomini Library featuring the or gelato in the afternoon and people H k n a works of Pinturicchio and Raffaello watch while you take in the incredible r F Sanzio. Here you will also find a rare views of the Torre de Mangia and the Inside the Duomo copy of The Three Graces from Roman Fonte Gaia. times. The mosaic inlaid floor of the cathedral is so precious that it is If you’re feeling adventurous, climb covered to protect it from getting too the over 400 steps to the top of the much wear from daily visitors. It’s Torre de Mangia and you will be m o worth timing your visit to Siena during rewarded with some of the most c . r k c i l the period when the floor is usually incredible views of the entire city. f , e e r revealed during late From the top, you h t o August to October. will see the Duomo Duomo floor and out across the m o 8 c 1 Duomo, the Palazzo Pubblico and the Just across the Piazza . entire city with a r k 0 c 2 i l f Torre del Mangia. del Duomo from the unique panoramic r , a e n b e cathedral is Santa i view of the winding o S t i c d This period is commonly referred to as Maria delle Scala. For streets that curve in o r O o s Siena’s “golden age.” However, to this centuries this was the e and out of the local T l I 2 day, people of Siena will say that it’s local hospital that Piccolomini Library neighborhoods. most devastating twist of fate was cared for and sheltered m when the plague hit the city the poor or sick, as well as Each year, the Piazza del Campo is o c . y in 1348 just as a grand pilgrims passing through where the long tradition of the Palio l a t i extension of the Duomo was the area. It is now a horse race takes place on July 2 and f o m being planned. The Duomo museum where you can August 16. Notice as you walk through a e r was never finished and the explore the history of the the various neighborhoods the statues d . w Black Death was to blame hospital. On the ground and colorful flags that symbolize each w w for killing around 60 percent floor, visit the Pellegrinaio, of the 17 contradas, or neighborhoods. of the population. The which served as a shelter In the days drawing up to and near the outline of the unfinished for pilgrims, the Cappella Palio, Siena comes alive as each extension of the Duomo is del Manto (Chapel of the contrada celebrates their neighborhood still evident today when you Mantle), the Sagrestia pride and anticipates their chances of visit the city. Vecchia (Old Sacristy), and winning the Palio. Torre di Mangia the Cappella della Madonna (Chapel of the Virgin The days just before the Palio include Walking The City Mary). The original sculptures the prove or trial races of the contrade One of the best ways to explore Siena by Jacopo della Quercia from the Fonte that have been drawn to participate. is on foot. Start your day with a visit to Gaia are displayed here. Also make The trial races provide a sneak peek at the Duomo with its classic green and note of the following places to visit: the which horse may be the strongest white façade and Baptistery just next Archaeological Museum with Etruscan running with great hopes and door. The elegance and gothic beauty treasures, the Children’s Art Museum, anticipation of winning. The evenings of the Duomo will take your breath the Giuliano Briganti Library and the are animated with local dinners hosted away as you reflect on the exterior Photo Library of Art. in each of the contradas with food and design with the gargoyles and saints, wine enjoyed together along long the upper façade featuring the Next, walk down the winding wooden tables. This is a once-in-a- Coronation of The Virgin, and the cobblestone streets to explore the lifetime kind of dinner, with the goal of The Republic of Siena existed weekly shopping, gossiping, and lunch or are looking for local foods to catching up for the week. take home or for a picnic later, go to the Consorzio Agrario di Siena on via m o c . r If you happen to be in Siena in early Pianigiani. This is the farmers’ k c i l f December, the Piazza del Campo is association of the province of Siena , a i r a transformed for several days into a and has a fantastic selection of all M i d o medieval style marketplace with local things only produced in the area. Here, d e r f l artisans offering their products for the you can shop for local bread, sausages, A Mercato nel Campo, or Christmas cheeses, honey and wines. Ask them to market. You’ll find wine, cheeses, make you a panino, or pick out one of meats, chocolates, honey, breads, their focaccia dotted with green olives m o sweets and hand-crafted items that are to eat as you c . r k c true treasures for the holiday season. explore Siena i l f , i t n In 2018, the Mercato nel Campo will be for the day. o P a held on December 1 and 2 from 8 a.m. c m u l o n c . a until 10 p.m. r i k G c i l f , n Palio i l d u a M Eating & Shopping 8 1 raising money for the contrada’s a i l 0 u 2 J coffers, so expect to pay about 75€ for The people of Siena are proud of their r e the dinner experience. The celebration heritage and the traditional foods from continued on page 5 b o t lasts long into the early hours of the the area. Discover the many c morning with singing, dancing up on restaurants and cafes where you’ll find O top of their chairs, and partying. sausages made with wild boar and dream of 3 cinta Senese, as well as pecorino ® cheeses.