CUISINE MARCH 2010 www..net MAKES WAVES KOREAN KOREAN

PEOPLE & CULTURE ISSN: 2005-2162 ISSN:

MARCH 2010 www.korea.net

PRELUDE

Korea’s Stoic Beauty Ancient Sanseong in Chungcheongbuk-do Province, the central region of Korea, are representative of fortresses dating back to ancient times and the middle ages. Ondalsanseong Mountain Fortress in Danyang is a site that bears the marks of the southward advance of the Goguryeo Kingdom and the north- ward expansion of the Silla Kingdom. This fortress, along with six others in the province, was included on UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage sites in January 2010. The Tenative List includes sites under consideration for nomination as official World Heritage sites. Seo Heun-kang ˅ TRAVEL 26 SUMMIT DIPLOMACY 36 NOW IN KOREA 44 Hanok, or Korean traditional houses, were The G-20 Summit will descend on Seoul in The hottest phrase in Korea nowadays is popular until the 1970s. But behind an November this year. Korean President Lee undeniably “girl group.” But girl group innocuous facade lies a rich history and Myung-bak consulted with other world fever is more than just a trend: it’s sym- philosophy that continues to persevere in leaders at the World Economic Forum bolic of a cultural era that is embracing the modern world. about the upcoming economic agenda. the expulsion of authoritarian ideology.

CONTENTS MARCH 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 3 MY KOREA 32 GLOBAL KOREA 40 Is Korea heaven on Earth for shopa- Korea is becoming more involved with holics? The shopping season in Western overseas relief aid. From the government COVER STORY 04 PEN & BRUSH 16 PEOPLE 20 countries doesn’t begin till the winter holi- to civil groups, the nation is increasing its Discovering a nation’s cuisine means It’s been 46 years since poet Kim Cho-hye Korean chaehwa, or handmade silk flow- days, but here in Korea, you can find mid- efforts to help less fortunate countries. more than just eating the food. As Korean first made her debut. Her prolific body of ers, encapsulate the essence of the pure night shopping year-round. dishes gain an acclaim, truly appreciating work is best described by the concepts of beauty that communicates with nature. this unique fare requires a closer look. stillness, moderation and contemplation. Hwang Su-ro has spent half a century ded- icated to this art.

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Around the world, Korean food is no longer seen as just “a hot and spicy dishes from an East Asian country.”After discovering a range of healthy and delicious dishes in Korean restaurants the world over, people have come to realize the diversity of Korean fare. While some ingredients and preparation techniques are similar to those found else- where, truly embodies the nation’s culture. Furthermore, the many fermented dishes that are part of meals have recently gained prominence as part of the “slow food” movement, leaving little doubt that Korean flavors are making waves overseas. by Seo Dong-cheol Topic Photo ˅ is one of the principle fermented The Korean government has deemed the years from 2010 to 2012 as a “Visit Korean restaurants anymore, as their tastes make them popular with palates on all Soy sauce, and soybean paste are dishes of Korean food (above). , fer- Korea” period. What are the must-eat dishes to sample at the numerous events continents. Sick of eating processed food and quick bites in between meals, peo- made from bricks of ground fermented soy- mented in soy sauce or gochujang, are also beans (above). Salted shrimp and fish are kinds of “slow food” (below). taking place during this period in the country? It can be daunting to see just how ple all over the world are turning their attention to “slow food” (as opposed to fast matured in Korean traditional pots (below). many menus can hold, so a recommendation or two from those in the know can food). That’s where kimchi and other fermented foods come in, as well as Korean really help. A survey by a Korean newspaper last year found that foreign residents barbecue, pizzas and chicken soups, all of which are becoming recognized globally. in Korea enjoyed bulgogi (barbecued beef) best, followed by galbi (grilled short As Korean foods take up more space on people’s tables, and people give them a ribs), and ( mixed with meat and vegetables). closer look, the subtleties of the dishes will inevitably be revealed. Recently, Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MCST) and the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MIFAFF) conducted a survey SLOW AND STEADY Visit a Korean’s home and you’re sure to come across a home of people’s favorite dishes at Korean restaurants overseas, and the following, in appliance unique to this part of the world: the kimchi fridge. Koreans have a regular order, were the top 10: kimchi (and kimchi-), bibimbap, hanjeongsik (a tradi- refrigerator to keep their food cool and another one to store their kimchi. tional, full-course Korean meal), galbi, bulgogi, samgyeopsal (sliced pork belly), Traditionally, Koreans made kimchi in the autumn and buried it underground to let samgyetang (ginseng and chicken soup), (chilled buckwheat noodles), it ferment. These days, however, the majority of Koreans live in apartment build- haemul-pajeon (seafood and green onion pancakes) and (rice cakes). This ings and do not have a yard in which to bury their kimchi. Thus, the birth of the kim- would suggest, then, that it’s high time people put aside their fear of unknown chi refrigerator, which recreates conditions similar to those underground, maintain- dishes and embraced new flavors. ing an average temperature of 1C. Interestingly enough, those top 10 Korean dishes are not solely confined to Lee Dong-chun (opposite above, above); Han Sang-mooh (right); Topic Photo below) Kimchi is easily the most famous of fermented Korean food. Though cabbage is ˅

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 06 2010 2010 07 the most well known variety, kimchi made with radishes or cucumbers are also Samgyetang is one of popular healthy food popular, all of which use the formula of mixing salt, red pepper flakes, crushed gar- in Korea, especially in summer (opposite). Tteok is made of rice, nuts, herbs and even lic, green onions, ginger, soy sauce and fermented fish together. Fermented kimchi some fruits that make it highly nuturitious (above). Naengmyeon is also a popular dish is healthy and nutritious, as it contains a wide range of vitamins. for its refreshing cool broth (below). Other Korean fermented foods such as soybean paste, gochujang (red pepper paste) and soy sauce have been thrust into the spotlight as the perfect slow foods. The history of the term dates back to 1986, when the international slow food movement got its start in Italy. The message of the movement was to promote a return to a traditional diet. Fed up with fast and instant foods, people who used to be obsessed with speed and convenience are now returning to more natural ingre- dients that agree with the human body. “The slow food movement has led to a decline in American fast food, which in turn has given way to emerging slow food from Asia,” says Jeong Hye-gyeong, a professor at Hoseo University. “New trends have seen healthier food finding its way onto the tables of people around the world. In the near future, healthy, eco-friendly foods will be the norm.” There is no doubt that fermented foods have been a part of diets in both the Topic Photo East and West for millennia. Long ago, Western cultures developed wines, beers, ˅

KOREA MARCH 2010 09 cheeses and yogurts as their own healthy fermented food products. But when it toasted seeds, ginger, pepper and . It is then fried in a pan comes to things that are “slow and patient,” nothing quite matches the variety of before serving. Galbi, or sliced short ribs, is marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, Korean cuisine. “There’s nothing out there like Korean food,” insists Jeong. “We garlic, green onions and pear. However, it’s different from bulgogi in that it’s have slow food like no one else. Korean soy sauces and soybean pastes are usual- grilled over a charcoal fire or braised. Additionally, the seasoning goes deep into ly preserved at least one year before they’re consumed, with some aged as long as the meat’s tissue, suffusing it with the uniquely original smells and flavors of 60 years. There aren’t a lot of people who can wait that long. Koreans, however, Korean cuisine. And don’t forget about the grilled fatback of samgyeopsal, which embody slow food.” reminds many of unsmoked bacon and is also cooked in its own way. Koreans grill These “slow” fermented ingredients are a fundamental part of the national cui- the slices of pork belly on a tabletop grill before wrapping it with an assortment of sine — not merely an afterthought. Most meals and side dishes include a ferment- vegetables. ed ingredient. Among stews, kimchi-jjigae (kimchi stew) and -jjigae (fer- Samgyetang is a traditional Korean meal eaten by many to beat the heat of sum- mented soybean paste stew) are popular. When people make , a basic Korean mer. Similar to the broth of chicken noodle soup, samgyetang’s health benefits are soup, with kimchi or soybean paste, salt and soy sauce are added to season it as unparalleled. After removing its innards, the chicken is stuffed with , well. Then there’s bibimbap, which would not be complete without gochujang. garlic, and jujubes and then boiled for hours. Ginseng, that mysterious root whose Essentially, if you sit down to have a traditional Korean meal, it would be nearly positive effects on the human body are still being uncovered to this day, is also impossible to avoid all the fermented foods present on the table. Korean food is, added, making samgyetang as much a tonic as a delicious meal. Haemul-pajeon, fundamentally, a hodgepodge of slow foods. which resembles a pizza or pancake in appearance, is made by adding oysters, squid and clams to a mixture of chopped green onions, hot peppers and flour UNIVERSAL TRAITS The top 10 Korean foods which non-natives like most have dough. It is then fried on a pan and eaten while still hot. more in common than just fermentation. The ingredients that go into the dishes Korean traditional rice cakes, tteok, are made by steaming pounded or glutinous and how they’re made are fairly universal, as it’s common to find barbecue, pizzas, rice. Seasoning it with nuts, fruits and herbs makes it highly nutritious. Then there Some meat dishes are cooked directly on a soups and noodles in dishes from other countries. Beef and pork are universal are all the different noodles, which come in a whole slew of shapes and sizes: the Bibimbap is a combination of rice, vegeta- tabletop grill just before eating (above). bles, meat and gochujang. It is also one of Galbijjim is a steamed beef dish marinated ingredients, save those nations which refrain from incorporating them in their cui- pasta of Italy, the rice noodles of Vietnam, the udon of Japan and the chow mein of the well-known Korean food overseas. with soy sauce and seasonings (below). sine for religious reasons. Barbecued foods and steak are popular around the China. Of the many kinds of , naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles sea- world, so bulgogi, galbi, and samgyeopsal soned with sliced cucumbers, radishes and pears, and topped with a boiled egg in have become popular with people in a chilled broth of beef or chicken, is one of the most popular. other countries. People over- seas enjoy Korean meat dish- SEEDS OF GLOBALIZATION A recent survey found that 60 percent of foreign resi- es not just for their familiar dents in Korea believe Korean food has the potential to go global. One Japanese ingredients, but for the housewife loves kimchi so much she not only has a kimchi fridge but makes her original recipes used to own kimchi! Perhaps the globalization of Korean food has already begun. The prepare the food. Korean government aims at accelerating the further globalization of the national As Professor Jeong cuisine. Indeed, the government’s bold new goal is to make the domestic fare one explains, “Western meat of the world’s five most favorite foods within a decade, and increase the number of dishes are simple, served Korean restaurants around the world from its present number, 10,000, to 40,000. rare, medium or well-done. In May 2009, the government formed a “Korean Cuisine to the World” group, That’s it. However, Korean meat and a Korean Cuisine Foundation is in the works as well. Related government agen- dishes agree with foreign cies including the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism have vowed to cooperate palates because of the many with civic groups to nurture the brand of Korean food. unique ways in which they’re del- Behind this sweeping culinary movement lie the universal traits of the cuisine icately prepared.” and its potential to become globally recognized. It is only a matter of time before Bulgogi is made by taking thin the seeds of Korean food grow into a strong, global tree. With an open mind to new slices of sirloin or other cuts of beef cultures and an interest in following a healthy diet, people are being encouraged to and marinating it in a mixture of soy join this movement to make this unique food more popular and accessible in every sauce, sugar, green onions, garlic, Han Sang-mooh (opposite below); Topic Photo above, right above) corner of the world. ˅

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 10 2010 2010 11 COVER STORY A CORNUCOPIA OF TASTE SUWON GALBI (GYEONGGI-DO PROVINCE) 1 Suwon’s marinated galbi short ribs are a local specialty that can be enjoyed anywhere in the world. As Gyeonggi-do Province’s most famous dish, this rich, meaty meal has a universal appeal, IN LOCAL SPECIALTIES almost like barbecue. Suwon galbi is said to have originated at a restaurant called Hwachunok, which opened in Suwon in the Geographically speaking, Korea is a small country. But 1940s. The galbi served there, marinated in sesame oil, garlic, that doesn’t mean it lacks great, diverse food and fla- scallions and Asian pear, then charcoal-broiled over a low flame, quickly gained popularity due in part, perhaps, to the fact that at vors. Get ready for a journey around this small but the time Suwon was home to the largest cattle market in the culturally rich nation in search of local food that best country. It’s served with an assortment of different vegetables. Recommended Restaurant Bonsuwon Galbi represents each region. by Seo Dong-cheol | illustration by Yu Yeong-eun Address 51-20 Uman-dong, Paldal-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do For more information call +82-(0)31-211-8434 or visit www.bonsuwon.co.kr Gyeonggi-do Travel Information www.ethankyou.co.kr

CHEONAN BYEONGCHEON (CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO PROVINCE) GANGNEUNG CHODANG 2 SUNDUBU The origins of Byeongcheon sundae date back to the years 5 after the Korean War (1950-53) when a Western ham facto- (GANGWON-DO PROVINCE) Made from local soybeans and water ry was established in the township of Byeongcheon. It was Gyeonggi-do Province features incredibly from the East Sea, Gangneung there that people started making sundae, a type of blood chodang sundubu is a silken sumptuous food that is presented beautifully. sausage, with the residual pork which had been processed soup with the savory taste of soy- Host to Korea’s royal family and nobility for to produce ham. They also began selling pork bone soup beans. They say the first person to with sundae at outdoor markets. centuries, the region’s cuisine has long been ever make tofu was Heo Yeop, a gov- Recommended Restaurant Cheonghwa Jip influenced by food from the royal court, which Address 167-6 Byeongcheon-ri, Byeongcheon-myeon, Dongnam-gu, ernment official and scholar during Cheonan-si, Chungcheongnam-do the Joseon era. He made his tofu by explains its traces of extravagance. Gangwon- For more information +82-(0)41-564-1558 coagulating soymilk with clean Chungcheongnam-do Travel Information tour.chungnam.net do Province is the most mountainous region in seawater. Unlike conventional tofu, the nation. Its distinguishing geographic fea- chodang sundubu is more watery, because it’s not curdled, with a tures include the Taebaek Mountains and the JEONJU BIBIMBAP (JEOLLABUK-DO PROVINCE) clean, mellow aftertaste. Tofu is high East Sea. Fresh seafood and produce such as 3 There are numerous theories as to how bibimbap, a bowl of in protein but low in cholesterol and potato, corn and buckwheat are staples for saturated fat, making it a much-loved warm white rice topped with an egg yolk, seasoned beef, and a many of its unique dishes. Food from the variety of vegetables, was first made. Some say it was a light commodity by people around the meal served in the royal court, later introduced to the public. world for its health benefits. Chungcheong-do Province is clean and simple, Recommended Restaurant Yetnal Chodang Another theory says farmers combined rice with certain side Sundubu with people there using fewer spices than in dishes in a bowl because they had no time to sit down and eat Address 334-2 Unjeong-dong, Gangneung- other regions. The only landlocked, northern during the busy harvest season. Although no one is certain of si, Gangwon-do bibimbap’s origin, there’s no doubt it combines a variety of tasty For more information +82-(0)33-645-0557 portion of the region has an abundance of gin- ingredients together in one bowl to make a nutritious meal. or www.oldchodangdubu.co.kr seng, garlic and jujubes. The southern part, Recommended Restaurant Gajok Hoegwan Gangwon-do Travel Information www.gang Address 80, Jungang-dong 3(sam)-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do won.to which is closer to the water, carries plenty of For more information +82-(0)63-284-0982 or www.jeonjubibimbap.com seafood, including blue crabs and shrimp. The Jeollabuk-do Travel Information www.jeonbuk.go.kr Jeolla-do Province, which makes use of the YEONGDEOK SNOW CRAB large amount of fertile land within its borders 6 (GYEONGSANGBUK-DO PROVINCE) and the southwestern coast, has myriad local OBUNJAGI (JEJU ISLAND) If you’re a fan of king crab and lobster, you’ll love the snow 4 Obunjagi ttukbaegi is a soup consisting of obunja- crab from Yeongdeok. This delicacy is also called bamboo crab crops and seafood to create a range of dish- gi (a shellfish related to abalone) and served in an because its leg joints resemble the plant. The best snow crabs es. While the Gyeongsang-do Province is also earthenware pot with mushrooms, tofu, garlic, onions are caught in the clear waters of the East Sea near blessed with both fertile land and a rich and hot peppers. The dish is a local specialty of Jeju Yeongdeok, as they have longer legs and chewier meat. It is Island, Korea’s largest and a popular tourist destina- high in protein, low in calories and rich in minerals, including coastal region, its cuisine is relatively simple, tion. With about 70 percent of all obunjagi harvested calcium. Winter and early spring are the best times of year for with many of its dishes being saltier and spici- off Jeju, it boasts an addictive chewy taste that is high snow crab, usually steamed or boiled in soups. er than those from other areas. Finally, Jeju in protein but low in fat, with a clean, refreshing flavor. Recommended Restaurant Sanho Snow Crab Town Recommended Restaurant Sambo Restaurant Address 305 Ganggu-ri, Yeongdeok-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do Island, the outcrop located off the southern tip Address 319-8 Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do For more information +82-(0)54-733-4023 or www.sanhocrab.com of the Korean peninsula, is a seafood lover’s For more information +82-(0)64-762-3620 Gyeongsangbuk-do Travel Information www.gbtour.net Jeju-do Travel Information www.jeju.go.kr paradise.

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 12 2010 2010 13 COVER STORY

Makgeolli is a traditional alcoholic beverage in Korea, much it’s lighter than other drinks [tequila, rum or whiskey], and like wine in France or sake in Japan. It is made by fermenting a goes down easy,” he says. “It smells fresh and its fruity taste mixture of boiled rice and water with yeast. makes it feel like I’m drinking a fruit wine.” There are several reasons has become more pop- Along with its popularity, side dishes that are well-matched ular in Korea than other types of rice wine. For one, it has been with the drink are turning heads, too. For time immemorial a loved across the country since the Goryeo Dynasty that began countless number of dishes have competed with each other, in the 10th century. In its unfiltered form and served with its vying for the title of the best side dish complement to makgeol- natural sediment after being stirred, it was not just an alco- li. Today, the most popular — and affordable — is probably holic beverage but a filling refreshment. Originally popular with pajeon, especially Dongnae-pajeon, a Korean “pancake” from farmers, it earned the nickname nongju, or “farmers’ liquor.” Busan that is made of dough with spring onions, seafood and A popular drink for years, makgeolli eventually fell out of eggs. With its melange of balanced ingredients, it boasts a favor with people during the Japanese colonial era (1910- flavor that goes well with the rice wine. 1945). Because of food shortages, there was not enough rice Another good accompaniment is a specialty of the Jeolla-do to eat, let alone enough to produce alcohol. As a result, the Province called hongeo-samhap, a three-layered dish consisting government restricted the making of rice wine and the once of cooled fermented thornback ray (or skate), steamed pork ubiquitous makgeolli seemed to fade into history. But as rice and well fermented kimchi. The thornback has a unique burn- production increased, people started to miss the traditional ing taste from ammonia, though it becomes milder when eaten drink, and it began its return to the spotlight. with pork and kimchi. In addition, sashimi chomuchim, made Today, in a world where health and well-being are at the fore- with fresh fish, spiced with and hot pepper bean paste, front of many people’s minds, makgeolli is the perfect fit. is paired with the beverage. Kim Ok-sim, the owner of a bar Usually around 6.5 percent alcohol by volume, it’s lighter in named Gounnim in Seoul says it is the best side dish, claiming alcohol content than other alcoholic beverages like soju (a “Its sweet and sour taste goes well with makgeolli.” local grog) and wine. The sediment, which gives it a milky, off- The makgeolli craze is sure to be around for a while. Even white color, is rich in nutrients such as lactobacilli, protein, the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries amino acids and vitamins. Interestingly, makgeolli’s popularity announced last year it would give full support by subsidizing extends beyond the borders of Korea. In Japan, large depart- companies that make makgeolli with freshly harvested rice. ment stores like Takashimaya sell makgeolli and idong makge- The popular drink was even served during a “Korea Night” olli, makgeolli cocktails, as well as other fusion varieties. event at the Davos World Economic Forum in Switzerland. Koreans have long appreciated makgeolli for its taste and THE BEST WAYS TO DRINK MAKGEOLLI William Lawton health benefits. Will it, however, be able to gain popularity MAKGEOLLI: A TRADITIONAL DRINK Cromwell, an American from Connecticut who has been living in overseas? It will certainly be interesting to see how makgeolli THAT TICKLES MODERN TASTEBUDS Seoul for a year and half, loves makgeolli. “I like it because fares globally in 2010.

For William Lawton Cromwell, left, who enjoys a few drinks with friends after work, makgeolli is no longer a foreign drink The world of alcohol is governed by trends. These days, for him (opposite). There are more than a hundread kinds of makgeolli in Korea (below). Makgeolli matches with many the most popular drink in Korea is definitely makgeolli,a side dishes, like hongeo-samhap (right). traditional Korean rice wine. Last year, in fact, 889 patents related to makgeolli were applied for, a 32 per- cent increase from 2008. Each region of Korea has count- less varieties, which has led to the rise in use of terms such as “makgeolli bar” and “makgeolli nouveau.”Let’s take a closer look at the appeal of the alcoholic beverage that’s changing Korea’s drinking culture. by Oh Kyong-yon | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 14 2010 2010 15 PEN & BRUSH

ANGUISH AND JOY FORLife Sometimes her poems have a generous, maternal love full of a spring-like vitality, while at other times they are akin to a field of reeds, smeared in the bleak loneliness of late fall. The work of Kim Cho-hye, who has lived her entire life as a poet, are just like her experiences: pure and straight as an arrow bent only by the wind, always asking an endless series of questions for self-reflection. by Oh Kyong-yon

It has now been 46 years since Kim made her debut as a poet. The prolific writer has also written two essays, “To Find a Since her first pieces were published in Hyundae Munhak Beam of Light in Life” and “Hurting Together, Loving in magazine in 1964, she has steadily, unceasingly brought out Company,”both published in the early 1990s. However, Kim such works as “A Drifting Star,”“Saranggut 1” (and subse- is truly a poet at heart and embeds her affection for the quent volumes 2 and 3), “Mother,”and “Island.” “Saranggut” medium even in prose. was even reprinted in middle school Korean language text- In one of her collections, the writer declares that “poets go books, while “Mother” was introduced to European readers through pain instinctively — they ignite themselves and ignite through translated French texts, which brought her global others as well. Love, whether it contains a universal character acclaim as the poet who expressively captured Korean senti- or a special one, has been an important element in life for ment and culture. me.”In the end, she expresses her unmatched affinity for Kim is the recipient of many renowned literary awards, poems, concluding, “That is prosody. What more can you including the Society of Korean Poets Award and the Korean want besides poems?” Literary Award, which is presented annually by the Korean Last year, she chose 100 works from her 10 poetry collec- Writers’ Association to remarkable domestic literary works. tions, and bound them into a special collection of selected

Kim Cho-hye KOREA MARCH 2010 17 poems. The book was printed on hanji (traditional Korean describes the goals of her world of poetry. The author prophets (who have a keen insight into life), and pioneers of paper), while the whole process of typesetting, printing and explains that, in poetry, in which the conciseness of language history (who write with great responsibility).”A true portrait bookbinding were completed manually. A limited edition of is beauty, you must expand blank space to the fullest and dis- of a poet is one who has both the virtues of a prophet and a 1,000 copies were printed, creating a rare and meaningful seminate the echoes of language into that void. pioneer. “Writing poems must spring from a sense of respon- masterpiece. Selecting pieces from her countless works, span- In Korean, there is a proverb that says “Every finger hurts sibility,”she says — for oneself, for humanity. “The object of ning more than 40 years, proved to be quite the challenge. Yet, when you bite all 10” which refers to the fact that, regardless poetry is not to decorate the poet’s personal sentiments, it is “publishing the selected book of poetry was an unavoidable of the number of their children, each and every child is an expression of true responsibility for life.” task,”Kim says, “The most important criteria for selection important to all parents. To poets, every poem is as valuable For her, Kim defines poetry as “a second nature,”meaning were that the poems were ones that had to be easily under- as a child, but often inquisitive readers ask Kim to divulge that, just as water and wind must flow, her poems must also stood by readers, and that they contained the inspiration of what her favorite work is. Though under the premise that all be completed in an unmanufactured, natural way. And, as a the writer in a natural way.” works are important to her, she chose “Mother” as the work poet, she hopes that every person’s soul can be seeped with that she especially treasures. “My mother provided me with poetry. THE VALUE OF WORDS “Poems are the most valuable things the foundation to concentrate on literature, and taught me She confesses: when she sees her poem on the wall of a in my life, something that I have dedicated all my efforts to,” the meaning of sacrifice and love. Though it has now been country-side cafe, or when she meets someone by chance Kim says when asked what meaning poetry holds for her. over 40 years since she passed away, my mother still vividly who is able to recite her poems, she is energized “as if buds Though the woman is now a veteran, she says she has lived all remains in my soul, in my works.” are sprouting from my body.”But not for a sense of egotism, her life pondering about the definition of a well-written it’s more that meeting her readers is like sharing souls beyond poem. Writing has caused her internal conflict and deviation, POEMS: A SECOND NATURE When asked abstractly about the time and space. To Kim, it’s not about living inwardly, alone. but Kim stresses that she never questioned or became dis- existential value of poets in real life, Kim says that writing is a “Through my works, I hope to continually share the various heartened about becoming a poet. She instead chose to disci- “painful but joyful task.”She continues, “Poets must be sentiments that I have experienced in my life.” pline herself to stand strong and says she will always continue with her efforts. “Of course, the creative process itself is very painful and difficult. But whenever I receive a collection of my poems in my hands after I endure that process, I experi- ence an inexpressible joy. That is probably the biggest happi- ness for poets.” “Saranggut,”composed of 183 poems, is a large series of MOTHER (MÈRE) SARANGGUT (CENT PÉTALES poems compiled into three volumes. Kim says she chose the > Language French D’AMOUR) > Publisher L’Harmattan (Paris, France) > Language French title by combining the Korean word for love (“sarang”) with > Published year 1995 > Publisher L’Harmattan (Paris, France) the Korean shamanic ritual called “gut.” Love, she says, is a > Published year 1998 universal theme and the most fundamental power, while gut One body, / but separated / into different bodies. Give painfully, gain lacking / did not know we would be sepa- I know you do not come to me, / not because you do is a form of Korean shamanism and traditional seasonal cus- rated. not wish to meet, / but because you fear/ leaving. tom. The practice, which has its roots in ancient Korean his- tory, holds rituals for auspicious events or ill omens depend- Only having experienced bitter things / Mother cannot feel Though you know / my tears are for you, bitterness any more. / Only familiar with sweet things, / the you pretend not to know and hide; ing on the shamanistic religion. It is an element of Korean child does not recognize sweetness. I know it is because of the flame / that you cannot culture that symbolizes all acts of conflict in the Korean throw away / or win. / Being near / causes pain, lifestyle. When in love, people are in the most pure, passion- To the beginning / return to one body, but sending you away / is a bigger pain. switch roles, / be born again. ate and intense state; when a shaman holds a service and is I know how to love, / living, missing you. possessed by spirits, it is a moment of the purest passion and “Mother,” a representative piece by Kim Even when two hearts scrape against each other. intensity. Inspired by these paralleling ideas, Kim combined along with “Saranggut,” is a master- piece in which the poet’s personal feel- They know how to weave together love, the two words for her collection. ings are embedded. The poem speaks a love they do not take, because it is what they want. Critics say her works are mere symbols of “style” ideas, softly of a longing for her mother and such as “moderati,”“blankness,”and “contemplation.”To this, regrets being undutiful as a daughter. The piece “Saranggut 1” was published in the book “To me, my mother was like a God, an of the same title in 1985. Kim declares that “All the Kim says, “It is the instinct of poets to express many things absolute existence in all aspects of my problems that arise among human beings, be they with just a few words.”She adds that “Some say that literature life,” Kim says. She cried so much while between friends, relationships with the opposite sex, is a product of symbols and omissions — but the symbols and writing this piece that she suffered from or parent-child relationships, there is nothing that exhaustion after completion. cannot be solved with love.” omissions in poems must be effectively expressed,”which Kim Cho-hye ˅

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 18 2010 2010 19 PEOPLE A TIMELESS ART IN FULL BLOOM

The Korean art of chaehwa, or handmade silk flowers, is the essence of pure beauty communicating with nature. Artisan Hwang Su-ro has spent a half century walking down this road of flowers with fierce determination. Through perseverance she has single-handedly tried to restore the flower culture of the Joseon court, thus making it possible for others to experi- ence the virtues and natural colors of chaehwa. Her life represents the earnest power of this traditional craft, setting it apart from modern-day flower arranging. by Kim Yeon-jeong | photographs by Kim Nam-heon A butterfly lands on a flower made of silk. A bee smells a sweet scent and descends onto petals made of wax. It’s strange how these creatures interact with these innocuous creations, because they are not real. Instead, they are Korean chaehwa, or flowers formed with naturally-dyed silks and waxes. As the tale of these insects suggests, the materials used to create chaehwa are so well crafted that they mimic nature. Chaehwa was a major decorating element for royal and national events during the Joseon era. During banquets, particularly elaborate chaehwa would be made to adorn the sides of the throne. It is said that scarlet red peach blossoms were placed on the left, and white red peach blossoms on the right. Although there are no photographs in which to see how the original handmade flowers looked, there are a couple of UNESCO designated books that contain detailed texts and drawings of the works of art. Uigwe: The Royal Protocols of the Joseon Dynasty and The Annals of the Choson Dynasty provide almost complete descriptions of chaehwa, enabling artisans today to recreate flowers in the traditional style. Once, this magnificent court flower culture was on the verge of extinction, but thanks to the efforts of Hwang Su-ro, it has survived and continues to be taught today. Through her efforts, she has established the Institute of Korean Royal Silk Flowers, where she and more than 10 students research the court chaehwa culture and make efforts to bring about the art’s restoration.

MAGIC OF COLOR Chaehwa captures the essence of the natu- ral light of flowers. In order to recreate the original colors of nature, only the finest silks can be used. The most difficult step in creating chaehwa is the dyeing process, as it requires all organic ingredients such as flowers, trees, grass and bugs. The restoration process also depends solely on historical litera- ture, so it is not easy to guess the colors from simple black and white pictures. Hwang says she adds her own imagination as an artist to what’s written in the books, in order to recreate the right colors. Using only surrounding resources, the silk is dyed scarlet, blue, black-green, gold and more. The next step is to delicately mold each petal, stigma and stamen. “I have heard there are those who make flowers in France,” Hwang says. “However, their flowers are not made by human hands, but mass-produced with machines. Only flowers made by hand can create such deep colors. Flowers produced in factories only emit light outwards, lacking depth.” The process is intricate and strict. “From beginning to end, the maker’s touch can be found almost everywhere. As such, the charm of chaehwa is in adding the touch of human hands to the grace of nature.” The artisan says this is how each flower comes to have a distinctive look and expression to it: each cre-

A student paints yellow “pollen” onto a bundle of fibers (top). Hwang Su-ro and her assistant dye silk with the ink from flowers (above). Hwang’s work describing the trees and birds (opposite). KOREA MARCH 22 2010 ation has been given a separate, new life. A FLORAL LIFE When making silk flowers, Hwang says all dis- tions in Korea and it originated from Japan. That was when I Hwang’s art is not limited to silk flowers, but also uses wax tractions fade away, leading to an experience Koreans call thought ‘this must be my destiny.’ I think it was then that my to create beautiful arrangements. The wax is made by first boil- hwadosammae (being absorbed in the way of flowers). Hwang, singular path for flowers began.” ing beehive remains and cooling them in cold water. Korea has with her determination and ambition, has been a master of her If not for Hwang, the royal art would not be around today, a prime environment for wax collecting, with its thick forests, art longer than anybody. Seeing such an elegant woman wear- making it a precious asset for Korea. Chaehwa and its style is high mountains and distinct seasons. Before, fine wax was col- ing silk hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) makes it difficult to imbued from nature, full of charm with its delicate colors, lected from early spring (when wild flowers bloom) until autumn imagine that she endures such grueling processes to create revealing the spiritual world of the Korean people. (when petals fall), and the harvesting of high quality wax led to the works of art. The restoration of a hwajun (decoration by To let the world know of Korea’s royal floral culture, Hwang the development of crafts using it. It is said that during the putting flowers in the vase) that once flanked the sides of the has held a number of exhibitions in places around the world. In Goryeo era, wax in Korea was a major export to China, along Joseon throne took an entire year — with the help of more than particular, the special exhibition at the 2005 APEC Summit in with Goryeo , as it was popular with the Chinese. 10 people to complete it. This is because the art comprises a Busan was praised by first ladies from around the world. In Floral artwork was the earliest form of wax crafts. A cherry series of complicated procedures, like choosing the silk, dye- 2007, Hwang surprised the globe with an exhibition of her work blossom made from wax could be so similar to the real thing ing it, cutting it into the shape of a flower, ironing it and adding at the UN headquarters. To her, that exhibition was the most that bees and butterflies alike sought out the creations. The minute decorations. Hwang says that she is always worried memorable. “People thought I put dirt in the vase to make hwa- clean scent and color of the wax flowers was also considered someone will see her hands, as they are often burnt by an iron jun in order to fix the flowers. Actually it was rice, not dirt. By more rare than the natural ones, raising the craft into high and always stained from the dyeing procedure. pouring in a large amount of rice, the tension between the regard with the noble classes and members of the Joseon “When I was young I was raised by my mother’s family, who grains prevented the flowers from falling. I asked staff there at court. Creating the flowers required a great deal of work; slow were descendants of Joseon royalty. My grandfather had the time to prepare some rice, and I remember I had to go hands created blunt petals and heat too high would burn the always kept flowers close by, so my sense for them was excep- through much trouble,” she says. “Rice was forbidden inside delicate material. tional, even as a young girl. More than anything I was influ- the building as it is classified as food.” Through various inter- enced by the traditional rituals I saw. I learned the royal chae- esting exhibitions, Hwang has fully promoted the powerful ele- hwa skills of using natural dyes from my elders, as a matter of gance of Korean court culture. course,” she says. “Later on, during my days in Japan, I Hwang’s lifetime of research, study and work have resulted encountered claims that there was no culture of flower decora- in a book that records her preservation of a tradition. From describing the detailed history of chaehwa to learning how to create the arrangements, Beautiful Chaehwa of Korea is a work of art itself. Like the process of creating flowers, the cover is made from silk that has been dyed naturally, completed with traditional Korean book binding methods. Through the book, Hwang expresses her wish that the art form, once dependent only on the efforts of individuals, will survive as a cultural asset. Her next aspiration is to open a modern flower museum to exhibit the myriad artwork she has worked on over the past half century. Though she has walked an uncertain path, studying a dyeing craft without any guidance, Hwang’s strength to continue is awe-inspiring to say the least. In the words of Andrei Tarkovsky, “For that which they call passion is not really the energy of the soul, but merely friction between the soul and the outer world.” Hwang’s philosophy is one which endures. “People tend to think in terms of black and white when it comes to the present day and tradition,” she says. “However the present and tradition should communicate harmoniously. That is why the two need to be understood in the same con- text.” Though she has pondered all her life how the traditions of Korea could speak to the contemporary world in understand- ing, she says she has found the way. From the beautiful power of traditional chaehwa, new flowers will blossom.

The uniqueness of Hwang’s art is in its realism. Flowers, made of silk, perfectly imitate nature’s own (above). Chaehwa is made of intricately molded floral leaves (opposite). KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 24 2010 2010 25 TRAVEL

You’ve probably heard the word before: hanok. But these tradi- tional Korean houses, which are often associated with history long past, were the popular form of residence until as late as the 1970s. But what made this structure, with its simple design and form, last through the centuries and root itself as an integral part of life here? KOREA travels to discover the subtle philosophies of the lives and people inside, seeking to root out the truth behind the belying minimalism. by Ines Min | photographs by Park Jung-ro

A view of Chunchu Folk Museum’s courtyard Chunchu Folk Museum is a 154-year-old hanok that lies at the edge of Okcheon, Chungcheongbuk-do Province, a place at odds with the modernity of the times. Though these traditional houses are often pictured as immaculate structures with pris- tine gardens gracing the courtyard, Chunchu first sets itself apart by being nothing like you’d expect. At first glance, the entrance of the expansive hanok seems cluttered with stone statues, gravel for the parking lot and various odds and ends resolutely staking its claim in the past. But it is within these paradoxical elements that the beauty of the family-run guest- house, restaurant and museum lies. Chunchu is nothing less than the most courageous amalgamation of old, new, respect- ful and realistic — and the perfect place to thrust yourself into the traditions of old Korea and learn some of its deepest cus- toms, away from the accessible city and superficial resorts. Upon our arrival, owners Jeong Tae-hee and his wife, Lee Hwa-soon, welcome us into their home. The couple has man- aged the hanok for the last decade, seeking to preserve a way of life in order to share their knowledge with passersby. Though visitors may pick and choose which aspects of the hanok to enjoy — a homemade meal at a table, a tour of the hanok’s artifacts complete with Jeong’s narration, or as a relaxing way to spend a night warmed by the ondol (under-floor heating sys- tem) — Chunchu works best as an entire immersion experience.

STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY Entering into a room inside the main building, the 58-year-old owner explains the significance of a hanok’s skeletal structure. It is the most important aspect of the residence, he says, while looking up toward the supporting wood visible in the ceiling — unlike modern homes, the main beams and woodwork are not hidden. “Without these timbers, a hanok cannot call itself a true hanok,” he says. The crossbeams construct the house’s cen- tral integrity, and its importance is so fundamental that a Korean idiom has been based on it. Often, a prodigious son will be referred to as the crossbeam of a family to signify his importance in keeping all the members together. “What makes the rooms different is that whether you’re opening or closing the doors, leaving or coming in, the layout always feels open,” he says, referring to the connectivity between rooms. “In Korean homes, it is believed there must be ample empty space ... space for wind to blow through.” This is particularly vital during the humid summer season, when a cool breeze is the only means of relief from the stifling heat. Furnishings are typically traditional-style standing wardrobes and low-lying drawers. Complementary with the lifestyle, ondol was used to warm residences during the cold months. Though today ondol has survived in modern culture, using heated water

Centuries-old stones decorate every corner of the grounds (top). Red peppers and jujubes are set in the sun to dry (above). A view of the inner courtyard of the guest rooms (opposite). KOREA MARCH 28 2010 seonbi chum dance, of which he is a master. We dine on a basic meal of rice and delectable side dishes, each of which have been made on-site, using all local ingredi- ents bought from neighboring markets. The table brims with year-long fermented kimchi, pickled sesame leaves, soft, fresh tofu, a milky-colored oxtail soup with glass noodles and more. The fare seems to be nothing extravagant, but each bite bursts with flavor that would be difficult to replicate elsewhere: bright, tangy and savory.

PERMANENCE IN TIME Hanok dates back to the time of the Three Kingdom’s Period of Korean history, yet the lifestyle has managed to persevere. Though the coming of the conveniences of Western architecture has thrust the lifestyle into the back- ground, it still manages to survive through those like Jeong. Life in a hanok may have its disadvantages, but he feels the intrinsic nature of the structure outweighs all negative percep- tions. “It’s true that manmade concrete lasts a long time, but it’s not something organic,” Jeong says. A hanok is something of the earth, built using trees, stones and water, no matter the locale. “A return to nature is the thing your body wills” as you age, he explains. And, although we may travel far and wide, a human desire to return to our home in nature will always win out, which is what a hanok embodies. Jeong flashes a characteristic smile. “Right?”

HOW TO GET TO OKCHEON > By car You can get to Okcheon on the Gyeongbu Expressway, southbound. Exit Okcheon IC (2 hours). > By bus/train Take a bus from the Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Okcheon, or take a train from Seoul Station to Okcheon Station. For more information visit www.oc.go.kr CHUNCHU FOLK MUSEUM > Address Munjeong-ri 6-2, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do Province > Phone +82-(0)10-3174-3307 or +82-(0)43-733-4007 (Korean and English) pipes to warm a room, a series of renovated rooms in Chunchu OF HOMEGROWN DELIGHTS As the sun begins to set, it’s > Rates A basic room for a single night is 60,000 won still direct heat from wood-burning stoves. The hot air is circu- time to prepare for dinner. Jeong crouches to feed a crackling (US$52.20). Traditional home-cooked meals available with lated underneath the floors, then vented through the opening fire in an open furnace made of brick and concrete, which advance notice, starting from 10,000 won (US$8.70) GETTING AROUND of a horizontal chimney. braces a large pot resting above. The heavy iron piece can JEONG JI-YONG MEMORIAL HALL Chunchu has no lack of eye-catching anachronisms that cook rice enough for 10 in as little as seven minutes. This is > Address Hakgwe-ri 39, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun, serve as the museum’s focal point of historical value. As Jeong only one of the many unique experience programs made avail- Chungcheongbuk-do Province leads the way with a slow, steady pace, he stops every so able to guests at Chunchu that Jeong and Lee have designed > Phone +82-(0)43-730-3588 (Korean only) > Hours Tuesday-Sunday from 9am to 6pm, closed on often to offer a detailed background of a relic or artisan’s com- to help visitors understand times past. Mondays and Jan 1, Feb 14, Sep 22 (in 2010) position. The stately, quirky man is a lover of storytelling, and Activities range from cooking rice in the traditional pot to YONGAMSA TEMPLE the courtyard, initially nothing more than a hodgepodge to the making grain syrup for , traditional candy, to brewing home- > Address Samcheong-ri 478, Okcheon-eup, Okcheon-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do Province untrained eye, is transformed tale by tale into a charming piece made makgeolli, a rice wine. For those who are looking for > Phone +82-(0)43-732-1400 (Korean only) of the puzzle of Korea’s history. something more active, Jeong will even teach the basics of the > Hours Open from 6am for sunrises

The grain and patterns of the hanok’s original wood can be seen inside the rooms (top). Jeong Tae-hee, the manager of Chunchu Folk Museum, demonstrates how to squeeze makge- KOREA olli deposit in order to release its juices (above). KOREA MARCH MARCH 30 2010 2010 31 MY KOREA

t m h ad ig n n e d s i s

m REDEFINED

In my corner of small-town Canada, shopaholics and fash- ionistas define shopping as a hobby, a pastime and, in some cases, a lifestyle. Inarguably, no season is more sacred than the weeks preceding Christmas, during which bargain event slogans brandish local newspaper headlines. As a notoriously last-minute shopper in college, with a jam- packed class schedule and frugal budget, I recall awaiting the annual event known as “Midnight Madness,” a solitary As it happens, on a chilly Wednesday evening I found myself suddenly in need shopping extravaganza that typically lasted from 8pm to of American two-dollar bills framed in glass, a hammer, some live eels, Shaun Cassidy on vinyl and a neon-pink faux-fur shawl. Well, not really in need, but midnight. Equipped with comfortable shoes for rushing, had those purchases actually been necessary, I knew I would be able to find credit cards and shopping lists, my fellow consumers and I each and every one at Seoul’s oldest market, Namdaemun, named after the would line up outside the town’s modest one-story shop- iconic south gate of the formerly-walled city. Eagerly skipping past the neon- lit tiger honoring the Lunar New Year, I embraced the labyrinth of alleys: from ping mall an hour in advance just to get the goods. Since the crisp market air to the strong aroma of roasted silkworm larvae accosting my arrival in Seoul in 2002, however, “Midnight Madness” my nostrils. It’s been said that shoppers can find everything under the sun at has taken on an entirely different meaning. Namdaemun Market “except nuclear weapons and tanks,”so I was keen on the prospect of emptying my bank account and testing out the bold claim. Surely there was something that belonged in my clutches. I armed myself with comfortable walking shoes, as the size of Namdaemun rivals that of my entire suburban hometown. Turning left at the first narrow alley, I began to understand what I was getting myself into. It was an attack on

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 32 2010 2010 33 the senses: vendors packed themselves closer and closer together, grills sizzled, Several tourist information booths in and around Namdaemun Market are feet shuffled, and animated speech and laughter grew louder. Although the helpful in keeping track of where you are in relation to the subway, but they crowd was largely Korean, there was a notable modicum of international faces close at 6pm and, if you want to know what is sold in the popular arcades, you and tongues. Locals swarmed around stalls for late night eats, paired with bot- will have to go in to find out. In my opinion, exploration is the only way one tles of the domestic beer. Rows of pig’s feet, freshly plucked chickens, mam- should tackle the maze-like Namdaemun. After all, what is madness without a moth-sized oysters, live seafood, sundae (Korean blood sausage), the fiery but little mystery? As the evening progresses to the midnight hour, I make my way irresistible dumplings known as , and a popular glass noodle dish to the markets of Dongdaemun, which is within walking distance of called japchae, are in high demand. I immediately detoured to pick up a din- Hoehyeon Station, a common access point to Namdaemun proper. This is ner-plate sized kimchijeon, a spicy, pancake-like goodie that can be described where the hardcore shoppers do their greatest damage and the action lasts as a “kimchi pizza,”comfort food for late night winter wandering. until the sun rises. As a fashion district where traditional markets and tower- Having recharged my batteries, I paused at a wide intersection to regain my ing, modern shopping malls sit side by side, Dongdaemun boasts an estimat- bearings. Around me, in no particular order, is: an optical shop (cheap glasses ed 30,000 shops. Due to its vastness, it’s tough to know where to begin. in an hour); a ginseng store with glass jars containing specimens of the stimu- I boldly venture into “Pyounghwa Market,”an enormous, multistory com- lating plant that bring to mind the shelves of a mad scientist’s lab; a souvenir plex buzzing with activity. The market operates from 9pm until 6am and shop featuring child-sized hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, embroidered focuses on apparel for middle-aged women. I’m greeted by colorful displays with Mashimaro, Pucca and other pop culture characters; and a shop selling of umbrellas, earrings, scarves, and other items that appeal to the female Ed Hardy knock-offs. Another 50m and it’s an assortment of blinking wind- demographic. While digging through a promising array of blouses, I’m polite- up toys, hats of every style imaginable, a TonyMoly makeup franchise and two ly informed that there are no dressing rooms, no refunds, and to make my side-by-side shops selling soccer jerseys featuring every player from the UK’s choices carefully. Although it is a wholesale market, selective shoppers are David Beckham to France’s Zinedine Zidane. welcome, but don’t make the mistake of spending too much time mulling There’s more. Past the bare outskirts of this vast shopping mecca are entire over one item, as you’re sure to see it throughout the evening. Getting the best alleyways dedicated to bedding and pillowcases, pots and pans, and still deal is a trick of the shopper’s trade and I recommend testing out a few ven- another selling mostly fruit and preserved goods in bulk. dors, assuming you’re up to the challenge. Once again in need of fuel, I stop for odeng, and am treated to the fish cake served on a bamboo skewer, hot off the grill. While indulging, I meet a fellow lady from my native country in search of merchandise for her local boutique. She is shouldering two gigantic bags containing various Ed Hardy T-shirts, which she tells me are trendy in Toronto. She will have to make several trips to retrieve her wares, as her stash includes a Korean-style lantern, numerous pil- lows and a curtain set. She showcases her bounty of metallic buttons and

beads for hand-made jewelry, a variety of monogrammed scarves, a dozen PROFILE feather-adorned headbands and a handful of mini-photo album cell phone During her 7 years in charms. By now the pedestrian streets are thronging with merchants, hagglers Korea, Canadian Kelly in animated action, and people eating, mingling and resting. It’s 2am and the Frances McKenna has worked as a fashion night is young for the Seoul shopping scene. model, performance artist, graphic designer Strolling around the lively streets, I am frequently surprised by the sheer and media coordina- volume of goods that people are carrying, and the multiculturalism of the tor. She established an NGO that special- crowd. Buyers from Japan, China, Russia, the United States and Latin America izes in saving Korean create a lively, if not chaotic, combination. It’s the nature of madness that moon bears. She cur- rently co-owns a Web comes off as unexpectedly welcome and appeals to my inner explorer, eager to site aimed at increas- discover a new alley in a place I’ve long called home. There’s a sense of com- ing tourism while help- ing fellow Seoulites munity in this megaplex of shopping mania, united by the common goals of a maximize their time here. When she isn’t good bargain and jovial experience. This is the shopping mall that never busy hitting the mean sleeps. In the words of Bo Derek, “Whoever said money can’t buy happiness streets of Seoul’s shopping districts, simply didn’t know where to go shopping.” Kelly enjoys animal They certainly didn’t give the streets of Seoul a shot. by Kelly Frances McKenna | welfare work, jogging and good conversation photograph by Kim Nam-heon | illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon over Korean food.

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 34 2010 2010 35 SUMMIT DIPLOMACY

THE G-20 SUMMIT IN KOREA: The 40th World Economic Forum in past G-20 agreements: efforts to SHIFTING THE CENTER OF GLOBAL Davos, Switzerland, was an occasion reduce gaps in international develop- GOVERNANCE The global head table A BRIDGE TO THE WORLD to reaffirm the shifting of global lead- ment and forming a global financial has expanded to 20, as the center of ership of the world order from a Group safety net; offering outreach to non- global governance has shifted. When of Seven to a Group of 20. Korean member developing nations and hold- the consensus was formed that the G- Leaders of 20 of the world’s leading and emerging economies, President Lee Myung-bak and French ing business summits. The 21st 7 structure would not be sufficient to known as the Group of 20, will descend on Seoul in November this President Nicolas Sarkozy agreed in Century Security Agenda Committee overcome the global financial down- their speeches that pressing global forum suggested an “Empowering G- turn in 2008, the G-20 was born. And year. The summit is expected to serve as an opportunity to evaluate economic issues should be discussed 20,” arguing that during the G-20 at the Pittsburgh meeting in the state of the global economy and the new world order. At the at the G-20 Summit. Summit in Seoul, a separate meeting September 2009, when Korea was Davos Forum held in January, President Lee Myung-bak once again By virtue of hosting the conference, of high-ranking security officials selected as the next host, the G-20 Korea has seen its national profile should be staged. The committee also was also chosen as “the premier reminded world leaders of Korea’s presence on the world stage. and prestige rise substantially. In his said the G-20 should take the opportu- forum” to discuss global economic Here, KOREA takes a look at the significance of the G-20 Summit in address on January 27, President Lee nity to become a forum that deals not issues. The crisis made a new gover- won popular support after proposing just with economic and financial nance structure necessary. Amid dis- Seoul, its preparation and its agenda, while trying to predict in the agenda for the November meeting. issues, but non-traditional security putes surrounding the change — some by Kwon Kyeong-hui Korea Tourism Organization

which direction global leadership is headed. ˅ His plan includes fully implementing issues as well. developed nations preferred the G-8

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 36 2010 2010 37 and Chinese President Hu Jintao. financial market — could be included. Sitting across from Brown was Saudi However, considering the establish- Arabian King Abdullah. The overall ment of the G-20, there will be tight seating plan reflected international competition for control between the relations and Britain’s own interests. developed and the developing nations, It was an example showing the rising and even among the powerful states status of the emerging powers and themselves. From the start, the G-7 also the diplomatic skills of the UK. states were worried that the presence The G-20 Summit in Korea will be of new rising powers in the G-20 set- the largest event the nation has ever ting would compromise their vested held. Aside from the leaders of the G- interests. Meanwhile, these emerging 20 members, representatives from states pointed out that the G-7 was ASEAN and Africa, plus chiefs of the losing its ability to lead and govern the WTO, OECD and IMF, among other international community, and they are multinational agencies, will be in demanding that the membership be attendance, bringing the number of expanded to reflect the increased world leaders to about 30. More than clout of the emerging countries. 2,000 officials will accompany these Changes to the relationship heads of state and agencies. Counting between the US and the EU, which the members of the press, attendees once had strong ties, may be another will number about 20,000. The G-20 reason that the G-20 will have strug- members include the G-7 states — the gles before reaching consensus. As US, UK, Germany, France, Japan, European nations worked toward inte- Canada and Italy — as well as Korea, gration, friction occurred in some structure while France led efforts to In December 2009, members of the Green Bicycle Russia, China, Brazil, Australia, South areas between the US and Europe. form a Group of 14 — everybody set- Volunteers perform a ceremony wishing for the Africa, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, India, Against this backdrop, the future of success of the G-20 Seoul Summit (above). World tled on the G-20. leaders at the London Summit 2009 (opposite top). Argentina, Indonesia, Turkey and the the G-20 will likely see a battle for Thanks to the shift to a Group of President Lee Myung-bak, left, delivers a key chair nation of the European Union. power among the United States, the 20, born of the economic crisis, Korea speech at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Up to 130 billion won (US$113 million) EU and China, as the emerging pow- Switzerland, in January 2010 (opposite below). now stands directly in the middle of could be necessary to run the summit. ers call for their share of the pie. The the restructuring of global governance. The budget for security alone will reach working dynamics will likely be quite The G-8 countries used to account for about 27 billion won (US$23.4 million). complicated. nearly 80 percent of global productivi- The possible agenda for future G-20 ty, but now the figure has dropped to the G-20 nations, which account for KOREA TO SERVE AS THE BRIDGE summits could mean even more strug- around 50 percent. Problems have 85 percent of the world’s gross President Lee Myung-bak and the gles. With regards to “sustainable arisen that developed nations alone domestic product, the G-20 Summit in Korean government will, as the chair, growth,” the US and China could be at can’t solve. The role of Korea as the Seoul is slated to be the largest inter- focus on acting as the “bridge” loggerheads over reducing the US “bridge” between the developed and national conference ever staged in between the developed nations and trade deficit. To improve its trade bal- the developing countries is beginning Korea. Whereas previous international the developing ones. As the mediator ance, the US wants a revaluation of to be noticed. meetings were festivities-oriented, the between these two forces, Korea is the Chinese yuan. But China has yet At the Pittsburgh Summit, Lee said, G-20 Summit this year will have con- known to have prepared ambitious to give a definitive answer. The devel- act as a bridge at this year’s G-20 national profile.” “It was agreed that unprecedented crete discussions on overcoming eco- plans to lead efforts to overcome the oped and the developing countries Summit is a challenge and a good test Yoon Deok-ryong of the Korea cooperation between developed nomic problems. ongoing economic crisis and to estab- could also wrangle over reforms at the of its mediation and coordination Institute for International Economic nations and new powers will be most lish the new economic system after- IMF and World Bank. skills. The success of the Summit is Policy says, “The year 2010, with effective in resolving a wide range of GLIMPSE INTO THE SEOUL SUMMIT ward. In that context, the most impor- Climate change is another tough directly tied to Korea’s standing in the Korea as the chair, is the crucial year problems related to the economy.” His Referring to the seating plan at the tant item on the agenda at the Seoul issue. The 15th Conference of Parties international community. for the G-20 to really become true gov- words served as a reminder to the dinner during the G-20 Summit in Summit will likely be the new world to the UN Framework Convention on “Hosting the G-20 Summit means ernors ... Korea is at the forefront of degree of change global governance London in April 2009, the British economic order that the countries Climate Change in Copenhagen ended that Korea is now in a position to the historical change.” has undergone. A successful hosting newspaper The Guardian said it was should adhere to after the crisis. In with a political declaration instead of restructure the world economic sys- Lee Dae-ki, a researcher at the of the G-20 Summit is expected to carefully planned diplomatic artistry. addition, issues that have been previ- an agreement. The participants also tem,” says Shin Je-yoon of the Korea Institute of Finance, adds, “We have virtually the same effect as co- Prime Minister Gordon Brown, the ously discussed — such as sustain- failed to reach a conclusion on their Ministry of Strategy and Finance. “If need to work through differences on hosting the 2002 FIFA World Cup. host, was flanked by Indonesian able growth, reforming international reduction targets or the sharing of Korea can successfully act as the these sensitive matters and seek Considering the economic sway of President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono Yonhapnews Agency (above, opposite below); Wa Dae (opposite above) bridge, then it will help raise our inter- ways to implement agreements.”

agencies and strengthening the global ˅ financial aid. So the goal for Korea to

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 38 2010 2010 39 GLOBAL KOREA

Korea’s overseas relief work began with NGOs. It was after the civil war broke out in Rwanda in 1994 that organizations that were active over- seas gained recognition from the gen- eral public. Good Neighbors began its relief projects with fundraising. During six months of emergency assistance, Good Neighbors dispatched 100 vol- unteers to treat 36,000 people med- ically. The group also supplied food for 2,000 orphans per day in Rwanda, and spent two years building schools to provide elementary and middle school education. NGOs also offered help after the Kosovo War in the late 1990s, the 1999 earthquake in Turkey, the war in Afghanistan, the 2003 earthquake in Iran and the war in Iraq. In particular, the government allocated US$1.5 mil- lion for NGO work in the aftermath of the Iraq War in 2003. Together, these organizations had US$8 million — including the money they had raised — in order to begin relief work. Christian NGOs such as Korea Food Korean NGOs actively participate in relief aid over- drinking water, among other essential seas. Good People International donated the solar for the Hungry International, Good LED lamps for the Tarukan Village in the living supplies. They even built play- Neighbors, Good People and World Philippines in October 2009 (opposite). The earth- grounds for children there. Vision, also reached out to help those quake devastated Haiti caused the collapse of The private sector has increasingly KOREA PROVIDES OVERSEAS many buildings (above). A doctor dispatched from devastated by the massive quake in World Vision Korea gave an emergency treatment taken part in relief aid. After the Haiti Sichuan Province in China. They visit- to a patient, a victim of the Tsunami tragedy in earthquake, the general public soon DISASTER RELIEF AID ed wrecked villages to supply rice and 2004 (below). began donating to help the country. Internet Web sites opened cyber dona- It has been more than a month since a 7.0-magnitude earthquake tion collection boxes and people online have since kept giving. devastated Haiti, a country in the Caribbean. But the people there are still suffering. Their social system has collapsed and survivors GOVERNMENT LEADS OVERSEAS RELIEF AID To help Haiti, the govern- are not getting proper treatment. Aside from the food shortage, ment and the private sector provided Haitians are exposed to poor hygienic and living conditions. And US$5 million in emergency relief countries all over the world have worked hard to help Haiti funds. The government plans to add another US$5 million for midterm bounce back from the despair. Korea has actively participated in restoration and rebuilding projects. relief efforts for Haiti, at the governmental, civic and corporate The National Emergency Management levels. Of course, Haiti is not the first country Korea has helped. Agency led the government emergency relief aid squad, including internation- Since the 1990s, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) started al aid teams and Korea International providing overseas aid for various causes. Recently, companies Cooperation Agency members. operating in foreign countries have joined in, and the govern- Doctors and nurses from the National Medical Center and the Korean ment has formed a legal framework for overseas relief work and Foundation for International Health- increased the budget for such aid. by Park Ji-hwan Good People International (above, opposite above); World Vision (opposite below) care, and emergency aid workers at ˅

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 40 2010 2010 41 the Ministry of National Defense, When a tsunami engulfed Southeast and blood banks, which had a com- Samsung plans to add an additional formed the second aid unit, setting up Asia in December 2004, the govern- bined value of US$500,000. US$1 million or more through local clinics to treat patients in Haiti. ment dug deep and supplied funding, In the future, Korea plans to budget subsidiaries. In addition, the government will supplies and workers worth US$5 mil- at least US$50 million for overseas The union at LG Electronics gave 50 deploy peacekeeping forces to help lion out of a special budget. Victims of emergency aid. The government million won (US$43,500) in relief aid Haiti recover from its ruins. The forces Cyclone Nargis in Myanmar in May believes the amount of overseas aid to Good Neighbors. The money is will stay in Haiti until December 31 2008 received US$2.5 million, and must be on a par with our national being used to help rebuild school this year to lend their hands to the the Chinese suffering after the status. In order to solidify the struc- areas and provide drinking water and country. The Ministry of National Sichuan earthquake that year got ture to provide official development medication. Aside from the labor Defense allocated 28.7 billion won, US$5.48 million. assistance (ODA) and to build an aid union, LG Electronics decided to sup- about US$24.8 million, for expenses. Aside from financial aid, the govern- system suitable for Korea, the govern- ply US$60,000 worth of relief goods The government’s overseas aid ment has been sending aid workers to ment plans to set up a separate and volunteers through its Panama efforts received a much-needed boost on-site locales. The first “quick- agency for international development. subsidiary, which services Haiti. The in 2007 when the law on overseas response” workers from Korea served dispatch of volunteers will be timed emergency aid was passed. Based on in the United States after Hurricane BUSINESSES OFFER THEIR HELP with the arrival of supplies. this legal foundation, the Ministry of Katrina devastated New Orleans. Korean companies haven’t shied away Hyundai Heavy Industries worked Foreign Affairs and Trade can deter- Another quick-response unit extend- from reaching out to others. Samsung with the Haitian embassy in the mine the extent and the method of ed a helping hand to Sichuan after the Group donated US$1 million to be Dominican Republic and the Red humanitarian aid, depending on the earthquake. The National 119 Rescue used in rebuilding Haiti after the mas- Cross to send 21-ton and 11-ton exca- degree of damage, in the case of dis- Service workers sent 41 members to sive earthquake. It is the largest con- vators to facilitate repair work, plus asters. This law also expanded the China just 12 hours after getting the tribution by a single Korean firm. skilled workers to operate the equip- noodle packs, 1,680 boxes of bottled will span over 33,000 square meters government’s budget on overseas call for help. ment. The excavators were provided water and other supplies to the of land in the Paraguayan capital relief aid. Before, an average of US$1 When the influenza A (H1N1) virus by the company’s dealer in the Chinese Red Cross. Hanjin Group Asuncion. It will adopt the Korean million per year was spent on such aid hit Mexico in April last year, Korea A boy wandered around the region of Batticaloa, Dominican Republic and its subsidiary supplied 2,000 blankets and 36,000 youth anti-drug education system and eastern province of Sri Lanka, just after the efforts, but the amount has since was there to supply high-quality Tsunami (below). A Haiti baby is holding a volun- in Chicago. Until emergency restora- 1.5-liter bottles on a special freighter offer concentrated education and risen to about US$8 million per year. masks, ear thermometers, liquid soap teer’s hand (opposite). tion is complete, Hyundai Heavy that traveled to the emergency com- management programs to eradicate Industries will provide the oil, filter, mand center in Chengdu, Sichuan drug use among the Paraguay’s youth. parts and skills necessary to repair Province. Good Neighbors has already invited equipment. “When Korean companies make related officials, including the minister Korean firms also showed generosi- profits in the global markets, then of youth in Paraguay, to introduce ty in the aftermath of the Sichuan they all have roles and responsibilities them to the Korean education pro- earthquake. Beijing Hyundai Motor as members of that society,” said an grams. The NGO plans to send provided five Tucson SUVs, worth 1.1 official with a major conglomerate. “In experts to Paraguay in the near future. million yuan. Dongfeng Yueda Kia, Kia order for the Korean firms to establish The Paraguayan government has high Motors’ Chinese subsidiary, handed themselves in the international mar- expectations as it prepares to learn out six Sportage SUVs, worth 1 million kets, they should continue to give from Korea, which is virtually free of yuan. Hyundai Mobis gave 500,000 back to society around the world.” youth drug abuse. yuan. Right after the earthquake hit, Good Neighbors will set up a para- LG Group donated 17 million yuan to THE GOVERNMENT AND THE PUBLIC site control center in Tanzania and will the Chinese Red Cross. Six of its JOIN HANDS A new model for joint give the locals education in preven- major affiliates — LG Electronics, LG government-civic aid to countries tion. Good Neighbors suggested to the Display, LG Chem, LG Household and struck by misfortune is on the way. As Korean government that such a facility Health Care, LG CNS and LG national interest in overseas aid has be built after it recognized the need International — all played a major role. risen, the government and NGOs have for help in dealing with parasites while Through its Chinese subsidiary teamed up. The government and Good carrying out relief work there. The gov- Doosan Infracore China, the Doosan Neighbors will build a youth anti-drug ernment has been behind the efforts. Group gave 1.5 billion won (US$1.3 education center in Paraguay and a Analysts say civilian specialists million) to the Chinese government. parasite control center in Tanzania. have lent their expertise to areas the For quick recovery work, about 150 While Korea has often built schools or government can’t reach, and that excavators were provided. Kumho hospitals in underdeveloped nations, efforts in Paraguay and Tanzania are Asiana Group donated US$200,000 it has never previously shared its exemplary cases that will help raise to the Chinese government after the know-how in relief aid. Korea’s profile in the field of interna- Good People International (above); World Vision (opposite) earthquake, and 480 boxes of instant tional aid.

˅ The youth anti-drug education center

KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 42 2010 2010 43 NOW IN KOREA

SWEPT UP BY GIRL GROUPS The hottest term in Korea at the moment is none other than “girl group.”They can be seen on every screen, appearing in TV dramas, entertainment shows and even documentaries. Leaping beyond the boundaries of generation and gender, these pop groups are lightheart- ed, sincere and now stand in a position where every move they make sparks a new trend. Yonhapnews Agency

˅ Just what is it about them that drives us into such a frenzy? by Jeong Deok-hyeon Wonder Girls is giving a performance at a concert in 2009. Inside a typical record shop is a man, in his mid-40s, noncha- lantly pushing a CD of the young girl group 2NE1 over the coun- tertop. There’s a hint of embarrassment on his face. After stealing a quick glance at the clerk, he mumbles: “My daughter is a fan.” The cashier gives his customer a meaningful smile and replies, “They’re really good. I like them a lot too.” Sensing his mind was all too-easily read, the man puts on a straight face and insists, “No, it’s not for me, but for my daughter.” But it’s too late, the words already sound like an excuse. The clerk’s smile widens. “These days there are many older men and women who come in to buy 2NE1 CDs.” The middle-aged man hurriedly shoves his purchase into his bag and returns to the streets. He ponders his situation: Who would have thought a man in his 40s would buy an album by a teenage girl group, after convincing himself it was for his daughter, then go home to sing the songs with his kids? What first made this middle-aged man fall for pop bands (commonly referred to as idol groups in Korea) was a Girls’ Generation’s concert he went to with his grade school daugh-

ter. At first he wasn’t thrilled about the show, as it felt more of houses and screamed with joy at a sighting. Back then, older a playground for teenagers than a setting for a father. But once folks would look at the crazed youths with awe. Their typical he was there, he encountered a sight he’d never expected to response was to cluck their tongues and scold the youngsters see. The crowd lined at the entrance was composed of such a for “recklessly chasing singers when they ought to be studying diversity of people, males and females of all ages, from teens hard for their futures.” to the middle-aged. Older men and women alike were proudly However, 20 years later, things have changed again. The standing in line holding the hands of their children, who were in generation that once devoted themselves to fan clubs has now turn carrying posters and CDs in their arms. The man’s appre- reached the midway point in their lives. Now they nod their hension dissipated at the sight of them. Once inside the con- heads knowingly at those from younger generations and, fur- cert hall, he saw that the venue was packed, from the standing thermore, they’re willing to sit with them, listen to a newly- section lining the stage, to the seats on the second floor. bought CD, hum tunes in a car, and even go to concerts. The Though the man had attended several concerts in his youth, formal term of endearment for this age group is “uncle and the scene of men and women of all ages mingling was a for- auntie fans.” And, at the center of all this change are the girl eign one. However, that feeling soon faded as Girls’ groups, who seem to have something for everyone. To elders, Generation came on stage and began singing and dancing their these charismatic performers remind them of their youth: to adorable, trademark moves. The issue of age was forgotten by men, they are beautiful eye candy; to women, they provide a everyone in the concert hall, and they all went wild together. refreshing energy that helps liven dull days and erase frustra- tion with bold, simple messages. Idol girl groups, in mere WAVES OF INFLUENCE These episodes from the record store years, have become an entity that brings together generations, and music venue are ones you would have never seen in the as opposed to serving as a distinctive divider. past. The target demographics for pop bands remained those Just when and how did this unique movement manifest? still in the middle of their teenage years. In the 1990s, when Was it when the Wonder Girls rocked the entire nation with the Korean pop scene thrived, the audience expanded to their echoing rhythm to the lyrics of “Tell Me”? Or was it when include those in their 20s. Fans organized official clubs, went the retro feel of the hit song “Nobody” made people’s hearts YG Entertainment (opposite above); Playcube Inc. below); S. M. (above) to shows to chase after their stars, camped in front of singers’ beat with excitement? Maybe it was when the refreshing Girls’ ˅

2NE1 targeted female fans with their boyish features (opposite top). 4Minute has recently given concerts in Thailand and the Philippines (opposite below). Girls’ Generation became a teenage icon with their fun and friendly fashion sense (above). KOREA KOREA MARCH MARCH 46 2010 2010 47 Generation seduced audiences with their long-legged dance past glory days. In this way, the energetic youth of idol groups to the enchanting “Say Your Wish.” The possibilities are end- brings a sense of longing to people looking back on their less, but what’s certain is that girl idol groups have made their prime. Wanting to return to those days of joy and resilience, of way into our lives. No matter our age or gender, these girls endless youth, is understandable, and even amplified during allow us to dream once again, moving us with their cheerful- times of hardship. ness and a feeling of fresh radiance. The vibrancy of their Girl groups have seemingly materialized for the Korean pub- songs, dances, clothes and performances is so irresistible that lic at just the right moment. They are the consolation of finding every move is picked up by the world’s pop radar. They render an oasis in the banal desert of everyday life, the time machine the term “singer” insufficient. They are at the edge of the fron- that brings us back to the light memory of youth, and the mes- tier of popular culture, but they are not just pioneers — they sengers of pop culture announcing the end of an era and the are the culture. coming of the next. So, why should there be shame or embar- rassment at finding peace and nostalgia for a few moments, THE SHADOW OF RECESSION AND NOSTALGIA Some are so or enjoying a new cultural movement? Seeing a father singing surprised by the elder generation’s enthusiasm for girl groups along with his daughter to a girl group’s song in a karaoke that they cannot help but mention the Lolita complex. room has become a natural scene in Korea. The culture has Nevertheless, that would be an example of an exaggerated changed and the ubiquitous girl group is simply a representa- principle that remains from the past authoritarian era. In the tion of progress. course of shifting from a masculine-dominated era to one of Though this idol fever may look like a simple fandom phe- feminine equality, the imposing frames of age and gender are nomenon created by singers and their enthused fans, the pic- being slowly torn down. The time has come in pop culture ture reflects a much deeper image. Each generation has lived where a man in his 40s can cheer for teenage girl groups with- in an era of the shadow of recession, and is now escaping a out being looked at suspiciously. constricting ideology by gathering behind a new icon of the era. Additionally, the craze for girl groups has inseparable ties Girl groups are one of the symbols at the center, inciting a new with the long and difficult recession. Retro trends are born age and time. Korea is embracing the reign of idol bands and because contemporary troubles lead people to reminisce about it’s an era that’s not going anywhere soon. Neganetwork ˅

Brown Eyed Girls recently became a big hit with their bold dancing style (above).

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