Issue 108 ■ Winter 2013 ■ €3.95 UK£3.40 ■ ISSN 0790 8008

ALPINE MEET Returns to Ailefroide in 2014

WINTER GEAR UPLAND LATEST BOOKS All you need for ARCHAEOLOGY Bumper review cold weather camping Last in the series section www.mountaineering.ie

EDITOR’S COLUMN

ISSUe 108 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering . The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and Welcome registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, Irish National Sports Campus, Mountain Log Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 he Winter issue of the [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland www.mountaineering.ie is packed with urges the Government to Christmas goodies and finally ❝ Hot Rock Climbing Wall ready to go! review the wider issue of Tollymore Mountain Centre We have some strong features. Of course, Bryansford, Newcastle recreation management in County Down, BT33 0PT Christmas and the New Year is also a time Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 when we might start planning our summer the Irish countryside [email protected] holidays, so we have an article about last summer’s Mountaineering Ireland Alpine editor: Patrick O’Sullivan Meet by Maureen Toomey, a first-timer, just Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) [email protected] to give you some ideas about how you could Literary editor: Peter O’Neill spend next summer. [email protected] An article by Simon Stewart extols the Mountaineering Ireland is continuing to virtues of visiting pastures new in Ireland, urge the Government to review the wider The Irish Mountain Log is published by Mountaineering Ireland four times using modern technology and a consultative issue of recreation management in the Irish a year, in March, June, September, approach to research the route first. countryside. December. The material published in Martin Fitzpatrick finishes off his As this is the last issue of the year, I would the Log by the voluntary editorial excellent series of articles on upland like to thank all of our contributors for theIrish team and contributors must not be archaeology, bringing us up to recent times material they have provided. As a taken as official Mountaineering Mountain Log, Ireland policy unless specifically and looking forward at what might be seen membership magazine, we rely on that stated. as archaeological monuments from our time support. in the future. Then Declan O’Keeffe goes On behalf of the editorial team of the Copy deadline for the Spring 2014 back in time to look at the contributions of and the staff and Board of issue of the Irish Mountain Log is Friday February 14th 2014. Irish Victorian Alpinists to the development Mountaineering Ireland, I would also like to of the sport of alpinism. And finally, a short take this opportunity to wish all of the Advertising: Rozanne Bell, Tstory for Christmas by Ian Baldwin! members of Mountaineering Ireland an [email protected] Ensuring reasonable public access to enjoyable Christmas and an active and safe upland areas continues to be a major New Year. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn [email protected] challenge in Ireland. Worryingly for recreational users of the countryside, it Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, seems from the recent Lissadell judgment Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP that the burden of proof is set unreasonably Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 high against anyone asserting a public right PARtICIPAtIoN ANd RISK of way anywhereWrite infor the the Republic Log of Ireland. Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are  reminded that hillwalking and Contributions of features, news items and photographs for climbing are activities with a danger the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be of personal injury or death. sent to the Editor at: [email protected] Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks, and be responsible for their own Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland publishes and promotes safety and good practice To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the advice and through Bord Oiliúnt Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please Sléibhe (BOS, The Irish Mountain oN tHe CoVeR also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie Heading for technical section of Training Board) administers a range alta via between Rifugio Maria e of training programmes for walkers Franco and Rifugio Città di Lissone, and climbers. Summer Alpine Meet, July 2012

PHotogRAPH by ALUN RICHARDSON

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 3 contents WINTER 2013

NEWSDESK News & comment 18 NEPAL DAY Chris Avison reports on Ireland’s first ever Nepal Day, held in Farmleigh in September REGULARS 16 CLUB REPORTS A report from Limerick Climbing Club 22 YOUTH CLIMBING The Junior Irish Lead Climbing Championship 46 BOOKS Reviews of recent publications 18 62 LAST WORD Czech climbing legend NEPAL DAY AT FARMLEIGH HOUSE Zdeněk Hrubý (1956-2013) FEATURES 24 SUMMER ALPINE TREK Maureen Toomey reports on a five-day trek she did during last summer’s Alpine Summer Meet 28 CIRCUIT OF CUMMEENGEERA Simon Stewart describes a hike taking in in the Cummeengeera Horseshoe in the Caha Mountains 32 TREKKING THROUGH TIME Martin Fitzpatrick describes archaeological monuments to be seen in the . Part III: 36 From the 12th century to the recent past 28 IRISH VICtoRIAN ALPINIStS 36 HOW THE IRISH CONQUERED CUMMEENGEERA THE ALPS HORSESHOE Declan O’Keeffe looks at the contributions of some of the leading Irish Victorian Alpinists 40 TREKKING AROUND MT BLANC Eugene McGettrick sets out to do the Tour du Mont Blanc on his own 44 THE LAST An original short story by Don Baldwin

BETA Information & expert advice 52 ACCESS & CONSERVATION Helen Lawless reports 54 TRAINING Jane Carney reports 56 GEAR 16 LIMERICK CLIMBING CLUB Kieran Creevy reviews the latest gear

4 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 newsdesk

Staff & board geNeRAL eNqUIRIeS [email protected]

StAFF Chief executive officer Karl Boyle, [email protected] Hillwalking, Access & Conservation officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] training officer Jane Carney, [email protected] talent development officer Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Accounts Administrator Terry Canavan, [email protected] Administrator Una Feeney, [email protected] Member & training Support Administrator Rozanne Bell, [email protected] get Ireland Walking Project Manager Grainne Quinn, [email protected]

StAFF – toLLyMoRe youth development officer Paul Swail Ben Bulben, Co Sligo Email [email protected] development Assistant (youth) Anne Kenny Email [email protected] HoNoRARy oFFICeRS Spring Gathering 2014 President Ursula MacPherson [email protected] Sligo Mountaineering Club will host Chairperson the gathering on March 7th-9th, 2014 Ross Millar th [email protected] Honorary Secretary (tba), [email protected] 9:30am on Sunday, March 9 , 2014, in the Honorary treasurer Sligo Southern Hotel. The AGM is a key David Batt, [email protected] opportunity for members to engage with Mountaineering Ireland and to be boARd MeMbeRS Sligo Mountaineering Club will hostth the involved in the administration of their Paul Barron 2014 Mountaineering Ireland Spring [email protected] representative body. We encourage all Frank Bradley Gathering as part of the club’s 40 clubs to send at least two delegates to the [email protected] anniversary celebrations.th th AGM. Clubs with a membership of greater Bridget Conway The event will take place over the [email protected] than 100 have additional voting rights. Nicky Hore weekend of March 7 -9 and will be The business of the AGM proper is for [email protected] based in the Sligo Southern Hotel. The Mountaineering Ireland, as a company Ruairí Ó Conchúir (Chairperson weekend promises to be a great social limited by guarantee, to report on the of Access & Conservation Committee) event, with plenty of opportunity to [email protected] previous year’s activities and financial Patrick O’Sullivan explore Sligo’s mountains and coastline. position. [email protected] Sligo Mountaineering Club would like to Mountaineering Ireland invites all Irene Sorohan invite representatives from all of [email protected] members and clubs to consider motions Dawson Stelfox Mountaineering Ireland’s affiliated clubs for discussion at the AGM, and [email protected] to attend the event – put the date in your nominations for the Board. Motions and Alan Tees diary! [email protected] nominations must be submitted to Registration for the Spring Gathering Una Vejsberg Annual General Meeting Mountaineering Ireland’s Honorary [email protected] will be available on Secretary, [email protected], Shay Walsh (Chairperson of BOS) www.mountaineering.ie in the New Year. [email protected] or by post to Honorary Secretary, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ,

National Sports Campus,th Blanchardstown, Winter 2013 The Annual General Meeting of Dublin 15, to arriveIrish not laterMountain than Log5:00pm 5 Mountaineering Ireland will take place at on Saturday, February 8 , 2014. newsdesk

th AGM Programme, Sunday, March 9 NEWS 4 When the Chair considers that the 08:30 Meeting of Honorary and matter has been sufficiently discussed, IN bRIeF Individual Members, if required the Proposer may be called upon for a 09:00 Registration for AGM reply and, when this has been done, a NeW I:25,000 MAPS 09.30 Annual General Meeting 2014 vote must be taken. Agenda for AGM Ordnance Survey Ireland 10:15 Members’ Forum A Delegate with the consent of the Members’5 Forum will shortly release the first Followed by tea & coffee Chair may move “that the motion now in a series of 1:25k maps be put.” which it intends to publish over the next few years. 1 Adoption of Standing Orders The first map covers the 2 Adoption of Minutes of the last AGM A Members’ Forum will be held following the AGM. The Members’ Forum, like the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and 3 President’s Address AGM, is for all members. With issues like Killarney National Park. It Honorary Secretary’s Report 4 the MAREX and Grid West projects, access is proposed that the new 5 Presentation & approval of Financial to the countryside and other topical series will provide selective Statements issues being discussed nationwide, this is coverage of the Irish 6 Appointment of Auditor for 2014 a real opportunity for Mountaineering landscape and will focus 7 Election of Board of Directors Ireland clubs and members to discuss on those areas where a matters of mutual concern and to wide variety of outdoor 8 Election to membership of Clubs and Associated Organisations contribute to how Mountaineering activities takes place. Ireland represents their interests going Nomination of Representatives to This new 1:25k 9 forward. All members are encouraged to AGMother Standing organisations Orders Agenda for Members’ Forum Adventure Series of maps attend the forum and are invited to will be available in 10 Motion(s) submit items for the agenda. addition to the existing 1:50k Discovery Series. Mountaineering Ireland 1 The Proposer of a Motion or an MAREX, Grid West and other provided feedback on an amendment to it may speak for 5 landscape impacts initial draft of the new minutes but not more than 5 minutes. Access to the Irish Countryside map. 2 A Delegate speaking on a motion or an Any other business amendment to it may not speak for • Further information will more than 2 minutes. • be posted shortly on 3 The Proposer of a Motion or an www.osi.ie ■ amendment to it may speak a second • time for 2 minutes immediately before a vote is taken, but other Delegates may not speak a second Sligotime to the MCsame motion. cleans up below Ben Bulben Litter-pick held at Luke’s Bridge, below Ben Bulben

whose land the club uses, and also a way of helping to maintain a clean Sligo Mountaineering Club, mountain environment. assisted by members of the The club was supported in CLUB SLIGO MOUNTAINEERING Yeats Venture Scout Group, the clean-up by Sligo County Council, who heldrd their annual clean-up on Saturday, November provided litter pickers, 23 . The focus for this gloves and refuse bags, year’s event was the and also arranged for popular Luke’s Bridge, collection of the filled which provides access to bags. The club’s Environmental Officers, Ben Bulben from the Sligo Mountaineering Club volunteers on their clean-up day in November northern side. Fran Lynch and Joe■ Elliott, This was a great would like to thank all of opportunity6 Irish Mountain for the Log club to the club members who Winter 2013 give something back to the gave of their time to assist local farmers in the area, in the clean-up ‘Helping the Hills’ study visit and seminar

Mike Maunsell, Mountain Research Ireland PAT LYNCH PAT managed in the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales” – Cathryn Hannon, “ObservationsDepartment of on Arts, balancing Heritage the and protectionthe Gaeltacht of sensitive landscapes with recreation and access to state- • owned lands” – Jeremy Smith, Trails Inspector, National Trails Office“Lessons from the study visit on the Reeth village, Yorkshire Dales technicalities of erosion management on upland paths” – Jack ‘Helping the Hills’ study group visit • Bergin, Access & Conservation Lake District and Yorkshire Dales Committee member, Mountaineering“The rationale and Ireland ethos which guides upland path work” – Hills will evolve to become a network of Bob Aitken, people and organisations sharing experience and knowledge in the use, • Due in part to Ireland’s wet climate and management, funding and repair of peaty soils, continued growth in outdoor upland paths. Keynote speaker past In September, twelve people recreation activities is damaging and Project Manager, Scottish Mountain participated in a Helping the Hills study degrading many of our mountains, with Footpaths Project, who has more than 30 visit to the Lake District and the years’ experience of addressing erosion deep and wide eroded paths becoming Yorkshire Dales, to learn from erosion in the mountains, gave his personal more common. During 2013 control and recreation management perspective, observations and Mountaineering Ireland continued the IML 104, experience in those areas. Learnings suggestions on principles, priorities and initiative started in September 2012 with from the Helping the Hills study visit structures for Helping the Hills and his the ‘Helping the Hills’ conference on the www.helpingthehills.ie. were shared withth a wider audience comments on some of the current issues management of upland path erosion through a one-day seminar in Dublin on in Ireland’s mountains. It is well worth ( pages 8-11). November 14 . watching the video of Bob’s address on The purpose of the Helping the Hills At the seminar, presentations were the website Irish Mountain initiative is to advocate a considered, made by a number of those that had LogPDFs. Helen of the otherLawless presentations are also quality approach to erosion management been on the study visit: online. A more detailed report of the and to ensure that interventions do not study visit and seminar will be included detract from the character of the upland “The environmental sensitivity of in the next issue of the Scramblingenvironment. It is hoped that Helping menace the upland in areas the and how Cooleys this is Help stamp out scrambling activity in the vulnerable peat • uplands of the Cooleys, Co Louth

not fully roadworthy, or taxed and GRAEME MAIN insured. The National Parks and Wildlife Service is liaising with local Gardaí to tackle this problem. You can help Garda Station Damage and disturbance from by immediately reporting any National scrambler bike activity continues to scrambler or quad bike you see on Parks and Wildlife Service be a problem in the Cooley the Cooley Mountains or on local Mountains, particularly in the roads to Clermont Cairn area. (042 938 8440) or the As much of the Cooley Mountains (086 ■ is a Special Area of Conservation 805 9240). (SAC),Winter it 2013 is a criminal offence to If you walk or climb in the Cooley Irish Mountain Log 7 damage the area. It is also believed Mountains, save both of these that many of the vehicles used are numbers into your phone now! newsdesk

Uplands forum plans for sustainable uplands NEWS IN bRIeF PATRICK O’SULLIVAN PATRICK

CLUb ReNeWALS Mountaineering Ireland would like to thank clubs for their supportive approach to the new online membership management system. Establishing any new system and introducing change brings its own difficulties, but club administrators and the feedback they have provided have Irish Uplands Forum AGM in Roundwood, Co Wicklow, in July helped us to fine-tune the system and improve the experience for everyone. Mountaineering Ireland Forum AGM highlights importance will now extend the online of sustainable, community-based discount for club renewals to management of mountain lands January 1st, 2014, in recognition the consultations which are shaping of the efforts of all club the management model proposed to administrators. Thank you! ■ operate the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks Mountain Access Scheme. Frank Nugent has attended several meetings MeMbeRS CAN NoW CHeCK in Killorglin with the local The Irish Uplands Forumth (IUF) held its tHeIR ReCoRdS oNLINe Annual General Meeting in Roundwood, partnership, local farmers and state All members can now log in Co Wicklow, on July 25 , 2013. agency representatives to identify Addressing the meeting, the chairman, appropriate models for the online, using their own email Frank Nugent, reflected on the year and management of one of our most address and, if necessary, update the continuing threat to the uplands visited mountainWicklow ranges.Vegetation their contact details or correct posed by changes in farming practices ResearchAt the same Project time, secretary Mary any personal information. Please Tubridy has pulled out the stops to and the decrease in farming in the note that members can only convert the IUF & Wicklow Uplands uplands, which is linked to its economic access their own personal Council viability. into a viable Rural records. The attendance at the AGM was poor, Development proposal, which has In order to log in, your email given the importance of the sustainability attracted the attention of the address needs to be associated of the uplands in Ireland to recreational Department of Agriculture and Food with your record and, if you find users, to upland farmers and at a time when that EU programme is that you can’t log in, simply economically to the country as a whole, being finalised as part of the new CAP email [email protected] with the revenue associated with negotiations. National and we will link the two for you hillwalking tourism. UplandsThere is Working no doubt Group, that the IUF ■ In his address, Frank said it was ironic needs some new members and must that, at a time when the Irish Uplands regroup to reposition itself in light of Forum had suffered the loss of some its new groups, such as the key players, many of the key original which objectives of the Forum appeared to be emerged from the energy created by becoming increasingly achievable. an upland agri-environment seminar The IUF’s philosophy of sustainable, hosted by Mountaineering Ireland in community-based management is October 2012. increasingly being supported by many PatrickThe IUF O’Sullivan still has an important role other bodies, including the Rural to play as a champion for consultation Recreation Section of the Department of ®andFor community more information involvement see in the Environment, Community and Local www.irishuplandsforum.orgmanagement of Ireland’s uplands.■ Government. 8 DespiteIrish Mountainthe lack of Log members, the IUF is Winter 2013 still contributing on the ground, where it matters. It has been involved directly in NEWSDESK

PURE PROJECT Mountaineering Ireland Calendar Dates • January 25th-26th Train the Trainers Workshop, Wicklow (including evening of 24th) • February 16th-22nd Winter Meet 2014, Onich, Scotland • March 7th-9th Spring Gathering and AGM, Sligo • March 15th-22nd Snowsports Week with Topflight, Gastein Valley, Austria • May 16th-19th Women with Altitude, Connemara • July 6th-20th Summer Alpine Meet, Ailefroide, France

View of PURE Mile, Crossbridge, Tinahely, Co Wicklow, joint winner of the PURE Winter Lecture Series Mile Awards for 2012.

In Search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers: Irish Alpine Pioneers. We will be putting together a more extensive PURE progress series of lectures shortly which will include talks Progress made in combatting from Frank Nugent on his new book, illegal dumping in the Dublin PleaseA full keep programme an eye on of theevents Events is available page of theon our and website, www.mountaineering.ie where you will find Mountaineering Ireland website. full details of all the events and lectures on the Mile Awards for local Events pages. Please put these dates in your diary. communities. Earlier this year the Environmental Protection The PURE Project, a partnership Agency (EPA) launched a new project to combat illegal dumping iPhone app (‘See it, Say it’), and fly-tipping in the Dublin and which makes it easier for people Wicklow Mountains, has now been to report any incidents of running for seven years. In that dumping or litter. Using the app, time the PURE office has received you can take a photo, add a few over 6,200 reports of illegal simple details and the app will dumping, resulting in collections then send your complaint details from more than 6,000 individual directly to the relevant local dumping sites and the removal of authority. approximately 2,100 tonnes of Ian Davis rubbish from the landscape. You can download the App If you were to put all of that ®fromIf youthe comeiTunes across App Store; litter oran rubbish into standard household dumpingAndroid version anywhere is due in the to be rubbish bags, you would fill over Wicklowlaunched and shortly. Dublin Mountains, 300,000 bags. If you lined up each call the of the bags that PURE has removed Lo-Call phone line, 1850 365 from the Dublin and Wicklow 121. This is an Environmental uplands, they would stretch some Protection Agency (EPA) number 300 kilometres, which is longer which can also be used to report than the distance from dumping anywhere in the Fly-tipping at Brown Hill, Aughrim, Co Wicklow

Glendalough to Cork. ■ PURE PROJECT Other PURE initiatives include Winteran education 2013 programme, media Irish Mountain Log 9 activity, CCTV monitoring of dumping blackspots, and the PURE newsdesk

Take the Women with Altitude challenge AANNE KIERNAN

development, and workshops andth talks.

Most of the activity will taketh place between Friday evening (May 16 ) and Women with Altitude Sunday evening (May 18 ), but for those group on the St Kevin’s th who can stay an extra day, we’ll be out Bed Traverse in last April again on Monday the 19 . The programme should be online around the end of January 2014. Women with Altitude weekend, Challenge Yourself. We look forward to welcoming new and Leenane, Co Galway, 16-19th May 2014 familiar faces in Leenane. We’re keen to have more of those under-25 years old 2014 is The event is involved and we would love to see as many open to girls and women of all ages and clubs as possible benefit from Women abilities that are prepared to make a ®WithJoin Altitude the email (for list this on reason there may be It’s much more than a women’s weekend; commitment to improve their skills and www.womenwithaltitude.iea restriction on the numbersand registering we will let Women with Altitude is about encouraging knowledge. With wonderful opportunities youfrom know any onewhen club). the event programme is women who share a passion for the for hillwalking, climbing and scrambling, available. You can also find us on Facebook mountains to develop their confidence and and Ireland’s top female instructors on by searching for Women with Altitude push themselves further. Building on board (including the now legendary team Ireland. If you are willing to make the superb events in the Mournes, Donegal from Gartan OEC), this event is guaranteed commitment to challenge yourself in 2014, and the Wicklow Mountains, the fourth to inspire. then Women With Altitude is for you! ■

Women with Altitude weekend is set to th The Women with Altitude organising take place in the beautiful and rugged team is currently developing a programme landscape of Connemara from May 16-19 that will include lots of activities on the 2014.Walking The theme for Women withto Altitude goodhills and crags,health opportunities for skills Get Ireland Walking is offering advice on setting up walking groups

walk leaders and group co-ordinators. The cover is limited to public paths, public roads, lowland walking trails, and Get Ireland Walking is continuing to looped walks below 300 metres. encourage an ever-increasing number of The Get Ireland Walking initiative is people to get active by going walking in working in collaboration with its partner their local community. Information on all organisations to unify and enable the things to www.getirelandwalking.ie.do with walking – from finding a efforts of all recreation, sporting and route or a group, to safety tips, to advice health promotion agencies and on setting up a walking group – can be associations interested in promoting th Partnership accessed through the Get Ireland Walking walking.Commitment Agreement website, On December 11 , senior More and more people are choosing to Age and Opportunity representatives of the following Arthritis Ireland walk in groups around our cities, towns organisations signed a ® ToGAA find out more about Get Ireland and villages to gain health and social to affirm their Walking,Ireland or toActive register your Walking Group, benefits from their physical activity. Get organisation’s commitment to working •contactIrish Grainne Heart Foundation Quinn, Project Manager, Ireland Walking has developed resources towards the achievement of the vision •Get Ireland Walking, (01) 625 1109, to support people to set up and develop and objectives of Get Ireland Walking: •www.getirelandwalking.ie, local walking groups. The free Get •[email protected] ■ Ireland Walking insurance scheme is • 10 Irish Mountain Log Irish Sports Council Winter 2013 proving to be very popular amongst Health Service Executive (Health groups. The scheme provides public Promotion & Improvement) liability cover for registered volunteer Mountaineering Ireland • • • NEWSDESK

Boats in Church Bay, Rathlin Island. Photo: Richard McAleese Photography

Rathlin good walks! Four new quality walks on Rathlin Island, Co Antrim

our new quality walks on Rathlin Walkers can also enjoy the comical Island, the most northerly antics of puffins and seals from the inhabited island in Ireland, are island’s cliffs in spring and early now ready for walkers to explore. summer. In addition, walkers can The Ballyconaghan Walk, Kebble Cliff expect to be treated to some Walk, Kinramer North Walk and magnificent views of Donegal, the north Kinramer Trail join the already existing Antrim coastline, the island of Islay and Rathlin Trail and Roonivoolin Walk to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. provide walkers with just over 30km of With over 30km of walks on Rathlin way-marked walking on the island. and a whole host more on the They allow walkers to easily explore mainland’s north coast, this is a great this unique island, which is a place to enjoy a short walking break. designated Area of Outstanding Natural There are a number of exclusive Beauty. discounts and offers available at Situated 10km off the northeast coast walker-friendly accommodation in of Northern Ireland, Rathlin’s greatest Ballycastle,® Rathlin Island and elsewhere is accessible on bythe ferry north attraction is arguably the great variety coastthroughout of Antrim. the year These from offers Ballycastle. can be ofF birds that grace its shores. Just 8km found on the WalkNI.com website. Contact Rathlin Island Ferries for travel from east to west and 5.5km from times on 028 2076 9299 or visit the north to south, the island is home to website www.rathlinballycastleferry.com tens of thousands of seabirds, including ■ guillemots, kittiwakes, puffins and razorbillsWinter 2013 and it has a world-renowned Irish Mountain Log 11 RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) centre. newsdesk

Ireland’s Alpinists remembered

Frank Nugent launches new book on Irish Alpinists in history

climbers had made to Alpine and polar exploration. In Search of Peaks, Passes & Frank is an experienced O’SULLIVAN PATRICK Glaciers: Irish Alpine Pioneers, mountaineer, polar explorer and Mountaineer and polar explorer expedition leader and a former Frank Nugent has launched a new Chairman of the then book, Seek the Frozen Lands: Mountaineering Council of Ireland Irish Polar Explorers 1740-1922.a (1997-2000). He was deputy leader companion volume to his earlier, of the first successful Irish Everest similarly well-researched and Expedition (1993); followed in the authoritative footsteps of Shackleton across the Island of South Georgia (South Arís The launch, which was held in the Expedition 1997); and sailed the Teachers’ Club in Parnell Square, North West Passage in the wake of Dublin, was attended by many of Crozier and McClintock Frank’s mountaineering and polar (Northabout Expedition 2001). The exploration companions from his book has been a labour of love for various expeditions. Frank and the researchPatrick for it, which Frank Nugent signing copies of his book at the launch The new book was formally O’Sullivanhas included making repeats of launched by Dawson Stelfox, the Alpine routes pioneered by Irish first Irish person to climb Everest, climbers, has taken several years. who reflected on the important but See review, page 47. oftenK2 unsung disaster contributions Irish book and film launched

Important new book on disaster launched in Ireland

On the summit day, because of involved in the disaster but there and his family asked him the poor technical ability of some includes perhaps 10% of re- not to climb any more 8,000m of the climbers, they were slow enactments of events by the peaks. However, writing the The Summit: How Triumph getting to the summit but, Sherpas involved, which were book and making the film had TurnedKerryman to Tragedy Pat Falvey on andK2’s his because of their summit fever, staged on the Eiger, where it was been therapeutic for him and he DeadliestNepali co-author Days, Pemba Gyalje they ignored the previously felt the terrain was most like that now felt he wanted to climb Sherpa have launched their new agreed turn-around time. high up on K2. above 8,000m again,Patrick possibly on book, When things started to go Pemba came across as a O’SullivanCho Oyu, Everest or wrong, the poor communication modest, unassuming person. He Shishapangma. Given his track in Ireland. between the different isPemba now a andqualified Pat Falvey UIAGM at the guide. book launchrecord, in Carrickmines there is no reason to At the launch in the 53°North nationalities added to the He said that, after the disaster on think that he won’t. store in Carrickmines, Dublin, problems. Pemba talked matter- K2, he did not want to go back after an introduction by Pat, who of-factly about the deaths that he has himself summited Everest witnessed and his actions as he twice, Pemba Gyalje talked about

tried to save some of the O’SULLIVAN PATRICK the disaster that happened on K2 members of his team, the Norit in August 2008, when eleven Dutch K2 International climbers died, including Ger Expedition, who were trapped in McDonnell. the Death Zone above the Pemba is an ethnic Sherpa Bottleneck. from the Khumbu area of Nepal, Ger McDonnell was with the at the foot of Everest. He has now Norit Expedition and had made summited Everest seven times the first Irish ascent of K2. and was among those who st Pemba was very clear that TheGer reached the top of K2 on August Summit,lost his life while trying to save 1 2008. He pointed to the recipe two South Korean climbers. for disaster that there was with While they were launching the people from many different book, the film of the book, countries, and with differing was already on release languages12 Irish and Mountain levels of Log ability, all in Ireland. The film is based on Winter 2013 desperate to reach the summit. actual footage from those Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the book service previously operated by Joss Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks and maps to almost any part of the world. For the walker, there is a large collection of Cicerone guides and books, or the wider selection of books and guides distributed by Cordee which also includes many climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Irish Mountain Log can usually be purchased through Joss Books with a members’ discount. To place an order, ring the Mountaineering Ireland office on (01) 6251115 or email [email protected].

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 13 news feature

autumn gathering 2013 by Ger Canty Kenmare Walking Club

Autumn Gathering 2013 Ger Canty reports on Mountaineering Ireland’s Autumn Gathering 2013 in Kenmare, October 18-20th

he Kenmare Walking Club was proud and honoured to host the Mountaineering Ireland

Autumn Gatheringth for 2013 in Kenmare, Co Kerry. On the club’s 30 anniversary, it was fitting that Mountaineering Ireland came to Kenmare, the “Gateway to the Kerry Mountains.” The club set up an organising committee led by Chairman James O’Farrell along with Pat O’Sullivan, Kathleen Lynch, Jane O’Brien andT Peter O’Sullivan. They Autumn Gathering participants on the Glanbeg Lake Circuit coordinated with all club members to set up the various walks, workshops and events Glenbeg Lake Circuit: and organise the logistics. The Climbing club gratefully accepted some Ramabang, extra help from members of A ridge We then had a talk by Gerry the various hillwalk starts. Killaha/Dromanasig: Killarney Mountaineering walk over Tooreennamna and Club. Galligan on his book While the weather was not Lackawee (11.4km, 964m ascent) The weekend began on the an extensive diary Coomnadiha:very kind to us, nevertheless Friday night with a wine of his travels in India and his we held six walks successfully. Killaha Mountain to Barrduff and reception hosted by the return overland to Ireland. They were: Torc Mountain/Old Kenmare Road:Knockeirka (9.4km, 617m Kenmare Walking Club at the Early on Saturday morning, Glantrasna and ascent) Carnegie Arts Centre in after a tea/coffee and Coomnadiha, and over Kenmare. This excellent barmbrack reception at the Cummeenanimma to facility was ideal as a meeting Carnegie Arts Centre, the Knockagarrane (9.9km, 724m :Part of the Kerry Way with optional climb of Torc Mountain centre. participants were bused to ascent) (14.5km, 929m ascent)

Reeks: Brother O’Shea’s Gully, Carrauntoohil, Heavenly Gates (11.8km, 1,050m ascent)

The Bone, Carrauntoohil, Heavenly Gates (12km, 1,050m ascent)

We had planned seven walks, but because of high winds making the narrow ridges of and Cruach Mór dangerous, we changed these walks to the Rainbow over the Kerry mountains during the Killaha/Dromanasig Walk Bone and Carrauntoohil route. All photographs: CLUB KENMARE WALKING With the quality and 14 Irish Mountain Log experience of our clubWinter walk 2013 leaders, this was done seamlessly. Both the Carrauntoohil and the Bone walks started and finished at Cronin’s Yard. We are grateful, as always, to John and Esther Cronin for their hospitality to our guests. On Saturday night, washed, Members of the Board and staff of Mountaineering Ireland with other representatives (left to right): Ruairí Ó refreshed and ready to go Conchúir, James O’Farrell (Chair, Kenmare Walking Club), Allan Mee (Project Manager, White-tailed Eagle again after a tough day on the reintroduction project), Flor McCarthy (farmer & IFA representative), Ross Millar, Karl Boyle, Helen Lawless hills, all attendees met again at Con’s Marina Restaurant for an excellent dinner. The craic was mighty, with over one hundred people attending the function. On Sunday morning, along maintaining this magnificent Promotion of walking clubs tagliatelle and chicken with a but fragile environment for all should also be encouraged tomato and tuscan bean stew. with the Members’ Forum, we ‘Outdoor Cooking’ held workshops on “The of‘Attracting us, our children, Younger and for our using social media, open days Both meals were prepared children’s children, to and targeted advertising. and cooked in fifteen Uplands of Ireland,” Members to Clubs’ “Attracting Younger Members appreciate and enjoy. minutes – just right for the WORKSHOPSto Clubs” and “Outdoor hungry camper. They are Cooking.” Kenmare is renowned as a signed up for our next ‘Uplands of Ireland’ centre of excellence for food camping trip! Jane O’Brien (Kenmare preparation, with quality food We hope everyone who Walking Club) chaired this served in an array of attended the Autumn workshop. Some of the restaurants. Two chefs from Gathering enjoyed it as much Dr Alan Mee, co-ordinator of setbacks highlighted were the the Park Hotel, Colm as we did. It was great to meet the White-tailed Eagle Project, questions of responsibility O’Sullivan and David with friends on the gave us information on the and insurance vetting. Espagnat, instructed fourteen ®mountains,Ger Canty so is don’t President be of birdlife of the uplands and There was a need to target “students” on the art of haute thestrangers; Kenmare come Walking and join Club us■ their habitats. families with young children cuisine for the campsite. Using again in Kerry! Flor McCarthy of the IFA’s and, indeed, young adults not a single gas stove and Trangia, National Council described involved in mainstream they created two sumptuous the advantages for farmers of sports. meals – wild mushroom being pro-active with approaches and car parks, and the benefits hillwalkers bring to the farming community. He also mentioned farmers’ genuine concerns regarding the presence of dogs on the hills. Flor McCarthy and Ruairí Ó Conchúir, Chairman of the National Uplands Working Group, outlined issues with farming and management of the uplands. It was evident that both the upland farmer and the hillwalker had much in common. This is reflected in the joint approach now being pursued at government level to develop a national support mechanism and Participants on the ‘Outdoor Cooking’ workshop with chef from the Park Hotel, Kenmare (left) policy which will protect the Winteruplands 2013 with appropriate Irish Mountain Log 15 farming methods. The upland farmer is the key to club trip

limerick climbing club by Tina Cadogan Limerick Climbing Club

Weekend in Connemara Limerick Climbing Club takes on the Maumturks in west Galway. Tina Cadogan reports

site with a holy well and chapel dedicated to St Patrick, we stopped to re-fuel our bodies, taking in the best of the weekend’s weather. After Maumeen, we had a 400m climb to Binn Chaonaigh (633m), followed by Barrslievenaroy (702m). This section is better known as the Middle Maumturks. From Barrslievenaroy, we made a tricky descent on scree to reach our campsite at Lough Maumahoge. The first day’s walk took 7½ hours. After reaching the campsite, it wasn’t long before dinner was being Members of Limerick Climbing Club who took part in the challenge (left to right): Tom O’Brien, Breda Farrell, served in the various tents, Frank McMahon, Margaret Harty, Brid O’Brien, Tina Cadogan, Cyril Doran, Mary Neligan, John Dillon with a variety of foods for all tastes. After a late night in Frank McMahon’s Disco Tent, we settled down for some rest in this very remote part of Connemara.

Last June bank holiday to do the hike without the weekend, Limerick Climbing additional weight of our Club attempted the camping gear in our Maumturks Traverse on a trip rucksacks. arranged and led by John On the Saturday morning, Dillon. The hike was a good the whole group met in test of endurance for the ten Leenane, in somewhat damp club members who took part. conditions. From here, we Although the Maumturks took a bus to the start of the Traverse can be completed in walk at the highest point on one day, we took the option of the road between Maam and doing it over two days, which Maam Cross. gave an opportunity for wild Upon reaching this starting camping to the adventurous point, the sky began to clear members of the group. For for what was to be a most the overnight stop, we had enjoyable day in the hills. Full the choice of camping near of anticipation, the first climb the corrie lake of Lough of the day, Corcog (609m), Maumahoge, which is was completed at good speed. situated in a rugged col in the From Corcog, the group heart of the Maumturks, or of headed to Mullach Glas The club members enjoyed great views of the Twelve Bens

All photographs by: JOHN DILLON staying in the beautiful village (622m) and onto Binn Mhor of Leenane. The campers (661m), where we had great 16 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 among us set up our tents on views of the Twelve Bens. the Friday night, enabling us At Maumeen, a pilgrimage On the Sunday morning, we awoke to beautiful views of the lake. A cuckoo could be heard from afar. After consuming a hearty breakfast of porridge and sausages at the campsite, the group headed out for Leenane, On the descent to our campsite at Lough Maumahoge covering the second section of the Maumturks. Maumean Mountain (541m) was first on the list. As the morning progressed, Support for Mountain Rescue it brought mist and poor visibility. The Maumturks are Killary Harbour. The second notorious for being difficult to day was completed in seven navigate at the best of times, hours. so the more competent We relaxed on the Sunday navigators in the group took evening with a celebratory Earlier this year, Limerick The donation was from the lead, bringing us along the Climbing Club demonstrated club funds and money raised ridge with cliffs which links dinner in the beautiful setting of Leenane House Hotel, its support for the at a Limerick Climbing Club Maumean Mountain to important work of mountain Cards Night organised by Letterbreckaun (667m). where we reflected on the success of the weekend. This rescue when it made club treasurer Maureen Maumturkmore (448m) significant donations to two Toomey last November. The was followed by a lively was next, then down to the of Ireland’s mountain rescue money was to be put session of music in the nearby th Col of Despondency and teams. towards purchasing a new lounge. th finally, everyone dug deep for On April 7 , after a short vehicle for KMRA. We returned with tired the steep climb up Leenane walk up Caher in the Then, on April 20 , before bodies to Lough Maumahoge Hill (618m). MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, the the club’s annual clean-up early on Monday afternoon to Having successfully ® See the club’s website at club presented a cheque for day in the Galtees, it took collect our tents before ■ achieved our mission for the www.limerickclimbingclub.ie ■ €750 to Damien Courtney, the opportunity to present heading home. weekend, we descended PRO for Kerry Mountain the South Eastern Mountain Leenane hill towards Leenane Rescue Association (KMRA), Rescue Association with village itself, overlooking the in Cronin’s Tea Rooms. €750 shores of Ireland’s only fjord,

Camping next to Lough Maumahoge

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 17 celebration

nepal day by Chris Avison Irish Nepalese Educational Trust

Nepal Day 2013 The Nepalese community gathered at Farmleigh in September for Ireland’s first ever Nepal Day . Chris Avison reports

Park experienced this incredible friendliness for PATRICK O’SULLIVAN PATRICK themselves. The Nepalese Ambassador to Ireland and the UK, Dr Suresh Chandra Chalise, launched Ireland’s first ever Nepal Day, organised by the Nepal Ireland Society. Everyone enjoyed the Nepalese music, dancing and food, an extensive photographic display of all that Nepal has to offer the visitor, as well as talks by three of the several Irish men and women who have successfully climbed Nepalese singers and dancers entertain the gathering with traditional song and dance routines . Nepal Day 2013 was the brainchild of Dr Jane Fenlon, a founder director of the Irish Nepalese Educational Trust (INET) and also Vice- eople often think of Nepal has been affected in something they wish to President of the Nepal Ireland Nepal as a land of many different ways by its bother visitors with. It is very Society (NIS). Deepesh Man eternal snows, where recent civil war. However, hard, if not impossible, to Shakya, NIS President, Alison Nepalese people mostly heroic mountaineers and meet an unfriendly thface in Irwin, Emma Lynch and the Sherpas plant flags on the remain stoic and fatalistic, Nepal. rest of the NIS team, as well roof of the world, or perish in accepting whatever befalls On September 29 , nearly as many others, ably the attempt. However, as them. Any suffering caused by ten thousand visitors to supported her. anyone who has been there the recent civil strife is not Farmleigh in Dublin’s Phoenix In her welcoming speech, will tell you, there is far more to Nepal than just the ultimate challenge for PATRICK O’SULLIVAN PATRICK mountaineers. There is Nepal’s unique landscape, from the tropical Terai to the lofty Himalaya; the cultural diversity; but Pabove all the unforgettable people who make it such a remarkable country. Still one of the least developed nations in Asia, Nepal has a proud history of independence. Despite many divisions between rich and poor, urban and rural, It was a big family day-out for the Nepalese people living in Ireland lowlands and highlands, and 18more recentlyIrish Mountain King and Log country, a certain ‘unity in Winter 2013 diversity’ binds the country together. Everest summiteers: Pat Falvey (left) and Cian Ó Brolcháin at Farmleigh Visitors enjoying Nepal Day at Farmleigh CHRIS AVISON ALISON IRWIN

IML 102,

Dr Fenlon outlined the son Ben raised a considerable climbing Mount Everest on INET and NIS. background to the sum of money for INET (see several occasions, including Ireland’s first Nepal Day establishment of INET, a News) to provide a two successful summit was a resounding success for charity born out of the first scholarship fund for local climbs. both visitors and organisers. successful 1993 Irish Everest children from Phuleli and Recent Irish Everest Farmleigh is an excellent Expedition. She described the neighbouring villages. climber, Cian Ó Brolcháin, venue and the Office of Public role of Dhana Khaling Rai, the Dawson brought the address also described his successful Works contributed twenty-two-year-old cook- out to Dhana whilst on ascent of the mountain in May significantly® Chris Avison to is thedirector day’s of the boy at Advance Base Camp, holiday in Nepal last October. 2012 whilst raising funds for Irishsuccess. Nepalese Roll Educationalon, Nepal DayTrust. who, with financial help from Dawson Stelfox later gave a Cystic Fibrosis Ireland. 2014! ® For more information, visit the the 1993 Irish climbers, went fascinating account of being A Nepalese photographic website of the Irish Nepalese to university and qualified as part of the first successful exhibition created by NIS was Educational Trust at a teacher. Benefiting from this Irish Everest Expedition in on display, with over a www.inetireland.ie and that of the educational support, Dhana is 1993. Vividly describing the hundred images showing all Nepal Ireland Society at now on the local schools’ final summit day when he had aspects of Nepalese life and www.nepalireland.org ■ management committees and the entire mountaintop to scenery. The photos and also works in a voluntary himself, Dawson reminded frames were all produced in capacity as INET’s local the audience that getting Kathmandu and hung in the director in Nepal. down safely is an equal gallery at Farmleigh by a During the Nepal Day challenge to climbing up. He small team of volunteers from celebrations, INET recognised also mentioned there are Dhana’s sterling work for the thousands of unclimbed

Rai people of his local village, peaks over 6,000m remaining O’SULLIVAN PATRICK Phuleli, in the lap of Mount in the Himalayas, Everest. Ben Graham handed representing real challenges, an illuminated address to as well as the ever-popular Dawson Stelfox, the Patron of Mount Everest. INET, to present to Dhana. Pat Falvey spoke next, with Alison Irwin and her eldest tales of derring-do while MARY SOLAN MARY

Ben Graham with the illuminated scroll for Dhana Khaling Rai with the INET team behind (left to right): Yvonne Lee Cooper, Chris Avison, Dawson Stelfox, Valerie Burris, Jane Fenlon Some Nepalese children at the gathering in Farmleigh

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 19 irish peaks

summiteering by Simon Stewart MountainViews.ie

Listed heights, fresh delights How summiteering can lead to pastures new. Simon Stewart reports

or some years now, MountainViews.ie has shared know-how on Irish hills and mountains. As well as informing, the website allows users to record what Arderins,they have climbed. This year saw two members of the MountainViews community complete the a standardised list of 500-metre summits on the island of Ireland. Currently, 404 summits have been identified as meeting the requirements to be on this list – which are having an F Vandeleur-Lynams elevation of 500 metres and at least a 30-metre prominence or drop from the top. Munro-bagging operates on a passage tomb, and Completing the Arderins takes Three people have finished the , a list of huge scale in Britain, with (Westmeath), you to forty-three upland County 269 mountains in Ireland 5,000+ having finished them. with the huge beech forest and areas out of the total of sixty in Highpoints, which meet the specifications MountainViews also remnants of our famine past – Ireland. Local Summits agreed in 2009 with the late cherishes shorter lists such as truly eye-opening The first person to finish the IML 107, * Joss Lynam, which are a 600m the twenty-seven possibilities.” Arderins was Brendan Hundred Highest. summit with a prominence of the one-hundred Try summiteering yourself. O’Reilly; and later, Adrian at least 15m. I am glad to say (local to While walking with a club or Hendroff completed them (see that I joined this group of where you live) and the friends, you can often page 30). finishers myself in October of Some incorporate some new tops. Brendan said: “Having this year. It’s a bittersweet thirty-five ‘MVers’ have logged The website gives loads of info summited my final top in ‘When Alexander saw the moment to finish such a list all the County Highpoints, the about them all. Marking what November 2012 – Tooth breadth of his domain, he wept, since, in finishing it, you lose most recent being Margaret you have done often surprises! forMountain there were in the no Cahas more worlds– a one handy reason to stretch O’Sullivan: MountainViews also has a tofriend conquer.’ mischievously quoted: yourself. However, it worked “Completing the County book and it annually awards for 45+ years for me…and Highpoints provided ®certificatesSimon Stewart to finishers. is the Some there are other lists! opportunities to walk in areas 1,600publisher users of MountainViews.ie record their ■ Highpointers”List-completing or where I was unaware that climbs using the website. That’s certainly summiteering is big in a there were any particular not the way I viewed things. number of countries. In the US, attractions for the hillwalker. While I have thoroughly the broadly equivalent Two spring to mind…Slieve na enjoyed my “ have over Calliagh (Meath), “Carns”27-year marathon“Binnions” to complete 6,000Irish paid-up climbing members. calendarwith its wonderful 2014 the Arderins, I don’t see why Photographer Richard Creagh, who is originally from Munros.summit-bagging has to stop. Cork, has just published a climbing calendar: Rock There are hundreds more Climbing in Ireland: 2014 Calendar. It is the first of or in its kind in Ireland and displays the variety and quality Ireland; and abroad, more of climbing we have on the island of Ireland. Richard It’s hard to beat that has tried to cover all of the different disciplines that *feeling when you arrive at a we have in the climbing world here: traditional and summit you have never bouldering; mountain crags and sea-cliffs; long climbed before.” routes in the bigger hills and shorter roadside venues. The By as early as 2004, as many as four calendar costs €10 + €2.50 p+p from Richard’s website, www.richardcreagh.com. other people had reached much the same summits as the Arderins using their own lists; and about twenty-two 20have summitedIrish Mountain a 600m or Log a slightly Winter 2013 easier 2,000-foot list. bouldering

competitions by Angela Carlin Gravity Climbing Centre

G-Force: Ireland’s newest bouldering competition

reland’s newest bouldering BRIAN GEISSEL

competition, G-Force,th took place for the first time on Saturday, November 9 , at Gravity Climbing Centre in Inchicore, Dublin 8. By 10:00am, around 120 competitors had assembled to have a go at the G-Force qualification round. Twenty- five problems had been set in a circuit for this round, hard enough to separate out those good enough to qualify for the semi-final, but easy enough to allow everyone to score and to have fun trying. I Michelle O’Loughlin in action at G-Force. She won second place in her category. The first score-card was returned after just two hours by Dominic Burns, the only Percy competitor to end the Bishton, Andy Long Juan Edelrid, qualifying round with a full 250 O’Raw. Wild Country, Red Chilli, points! Meanwhile, everyone Beyond Hope, Metolius else continued to battle it out route-setting team of the final with a stunning flash Evolv.competition a success, for a place in the semi-final or and of the slab but, as things got including sponsors just to enjoy trying the There were many more powerful in the steep Graeme problems with their friends. excellent performances, section of the competition wall, Alderson, Bru and Sixteen men and sixteen especially considering that for Nathan Phillips and Dominic Also a huge ‘thank-you’ women went through from the the majority of competitors the Burns really started to come to all those who assisted with qualifying round to the semi- isolation and the International into their own. the judging, especially ■ and to from Le final. The competitors had to Federation of Sport Climbing Rachel Carr clinched victorynd Cercle Productions, who will be climbDarragh four O’Connor bouldering in action (IFSC) format were completely in therd Women’s with a flash on releasing a video of the problems, courtesy of the new experiences. problem 3, but the battle for 2 Niamh Costello in action After the semi-final, there and 3 saw stunning displays competition highlights soon! was a few hours of respite for of climbing and tenacity from Rachel Carr, Michelle the finalists, as they tucked into all of the female competitors, O’Loughlin Lucy Mitchell, a BBQ while the competition right down to the last problem. Edelrid, Wild wall was re-set for the final. The final results were: Country, Beyond Hope Nathan Phillips, Competitors also had a chance Beta Climbing Designs. Dominicst nd Burnsrd Eddie to look through their goodie and Barbour bags, courtesy of 1 , 2 and 3 in the Female and category, and and The finalists lined up and in a similar order in started their observation of the the Male category. final problems at 7:00pm. The G-Force was a great day for crowd started cheering and the everyone, competitors and DJ cranked up the volume. It spectators alike, and it is hoped was clear that there were a few that it will be the start of an nerves, especially for those annual event that will take the who weren’t accustomed to standard of competition climbing in front of a crowd of climbing in Ireland up a notch. BRIAN GEISSEL BRIAN GEISSEL this size (or volume!) but, as The management of Gravity soon as the final was underway, Climbing Centre would like to the nerves were forgotten. thank all those who helped to Ronan Browner kicked off make the bouldering youth climbing

competitions by Damien O’Sullivan Talent Development Officer

Junior Irish Lead Climbing Championship

The O’Driscoll O’Neil Insurance Junior Irish Lead Climbing Championship in October was a terrific event

O’Driscoll O’Neil Irish Lead Climbing Championships Insurance Junior Results, Juniors, Dublin, Awesome Walls, 19th October 2013 Irish Lead Climbing Championship Junior Male Youth B Male he Youth C category. 1. Ciaran Scanlon 1. Jack Flynn Each competitor climbs 2. Andrew Colligan 2. Philip Murphy two initial qualifying routes. 3. David Mulcahy 3. Saul Calvert took place at The routes are designed so 3. Sean McBride

Awesome Wallsth in Finglas, that they get progressively Youth B Female Dublin 11, on Saturday, more difficult the higher the Junior Female 1. Eleanor Lawrence October 19 . The need to run competitor goes. The higher 1. Vanessa Woods 2. Ellen Griffin 2. Hannah Hayes 3. Victoria Waterson a specific junior the competitor gets on the championship is reflective of route, the more points he or Youth A Male Youth C Male the huge growth in youth she gets. The top-ranked 1. Dominic Burns 1. Carson Carnduff climbing in the past few climbers after the two 2. Eoin Acton 2. Conor Orr years. qualifying routes then get to 2. Jamie Rankin 3. David Nessans Thirty-four young climbers climb on the final route. The Youth A Female Youth C Female competed in eight separate two qualifying routes are 1. Niamh Hebblethwaite 1. Anna Nelson categories. The categories are demonstrated for the 2. Caitlin Miskelly 2. Sakara Thurston set by the competitors’ year competitors and they are 3. Lauren Maxwell 3. Hannah Armstrong of birth and gender. The allowed to watch each other Teldest climbers, born in 1994 as they climb. However, and 1995, competed in the competitors who reach the Junior category. The youngest final must climb the routes competitors, born in 2000 on-sight. There is no Competitors at the Junior Championships at Awesome and 2001, competed in the demonstration of climbing Walls, Dublin, October 19th. Photo: Joxeba Goe

22 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 Great Outdoors’ JOXEBA GOE the routes and climbers are insurance agents. The put in isolation so that they competitors were delighted cannot observe the other with Awesome competitors. sponsorship of the prizes, Awesome Walls was packed Walls with many of them rushing to with climbers on the day of the shop as soon as the prize- the competition. They were treated to a real spectacle of giving was over. climbing when it came to the were again also final rounds. The young fantastic supporters of the climbers pulled out all the competition. stops to get as high as they As well as the commercial Terrycould onO’Connor, their climbs. Eddie It was sponsors and supporters, Cooperinspiring to watch!Lucy Mitchell. there was a vital input from a The routes for the number of volunteer helpers competition were set by on the day. A competition like this needs belayers, judges, and The setters did a great job video-camera operators and and, at the end of the administration helpers to make it run safely, fairly and competition, the competitors ■ were well divided in all the smoothly. Thanks to everyone categories. The competitors who gave of their time to also really enjoyedO’Driscoll climbing make the competition such a Ciaran Scanlon in action at the Junior O’Neilthe routes. Insurance, success Championships on October 19th The competition was very generously sponsored by NewMountaineering finger Ireland’s board launched Review by Kieran Creevy €125

Savage Outdoors is a new Irish company, and this massive finger board Savage Finger Board of rockclimbing training methods. The is the first product they have launched. sheer number of holds and variety of www.savageoutdoors.ie grips that can be employed on this €125 board beggars belief and will humble almost any climber. For starters, there Pros are the usual jugs and pocket holds, ❚ Made in Ireland by Irish climbers. from full-hand jugs to one-finger, one- ❚ Well thought-out design. It’s knuckle horrors. To this they’ve added obvious that the Savage finger slopers and pinch grips; and finally board (no specific name has been there are attachment points for campus chosen for the model so far) is the boards or a TRX system. result of a huge amount of research done on other finger boards on the Cons market and an extensive knowledge ❚ None

Irish Mountain Log 23 FEATURES SUMMER ALPINE TREK

Leaving the beautiful Rifugio Tonolini on the last day

Photograph: ALUN RICHARDSON Summer Alpine Meet trek MAUREEN TOOMEY went on a five-day trek at the meet in Italy last summer

ast March, Tina Cadogan and I started Mountaineering Ireland-run courses or treks, like us. Lplanning our trip to the Mountaineering Others were trekking or climbing peaks in groups by Ireland Summer Alpine Meet. We have both themselves. been active members of Limerick Climbing We had signed up for a five-day trek across Trail No Club for several years now and we thought it would be 1, which crosses the Adamello Park in the heart of the nice to attend the meet, having heard great things Rhaetian Alps. The Alta Via del l’Adamello is a journey about it from fellow club members. So we booked our into Italy’s past, via the remains and signs of the White flights, a hire car, the campsite and places on a five-day War which, for four years, witnessed Italians and guided trek during the week we were going to be at Austrians battle each other at over 3,000 metres’ the meet, and we were ready to go! altitude in unimaginable conditions during World War The meet certainly lived up to our expectations and, I. in fact, surpassed them in every way. We had a The Adamello Trek is about 70km long and is split fantastic time. We did some great climbing with into five stages. Each day involved a difficult trek of 7 amazing views, met some fabulous people and to 8½ hours’ duration, passing through a wealth of generally had a ball! different habitats. Although the walk was generally * * * * * * fine for medium-to-fit hikers, there were some short exposed and difficult sections. In fact, because of the In July, Tina and I flew to Milan and then drove to the amount of snow in the Alps that summer, our guides campsite chosen by Mountaineering Ireland as the told us it was a difficult trek and an introduction to base for the meet. The campsite was a short walk Alpine Mountaineering in one! outside the village of Temù, at the base of the Rhaetian Crampons, ropes, ice-axes and lots of nerve were Alps in northern Italy. We stayed in the campsite when required at times. We stayed in mountain huts along we were not trekking. There were about fifty people the way. We had a lovely group of seven people and from all over Ireland there at any one time during the two guides. It was an absolutely amazing experience meet – members of other clubs as well as independent 24 Irish Mountain Log and our guides were top class. The followingWinter is a day- 2013 members of Mountaineering Ireland. Everyone was by-day account of our holiday. extremely friendly. Some people were on FEATURES SUMMER ALPINE TREK

Waving goodbye to Refugio Maria e Franco, from Derna Passe, Day 2 Taking in the view on the climb to Passe di Poia, Day 3

MAUREEN TOOMEY COLLECTION MAUREEN TOOMEY COLLECTION

DAY 1 ‘The meet lived up to

th expectations – in fact, it We flew from Dublin to Milan on Sunday, July 7 , and surpassed them in every drove for about three hours to get to our destination. It was a beautiful drive through rustic little towns and way!’ along Lago Isla. Once we arrived at the campsite, a beautiful, well- maintained campsite with bales of hay lining the long entrance, we set up our tent. The views were of THE AUTHOR mountains, forests and mountain villages in all Maureen Toomey has been an active member Adamellodirections. Trek,Later thatStage evening, #1: we met our guides, of rain that during the week– we packed up our of Limerick Climbing LaHelen Resega Russell to Rifugioand Alun Maria Richardson, e Franco to get a run-down Club for the last seven tents, ate some breakfast and got our gear ready to on the trek and to check our gear. years and is currently head off at 7:00am. We picked up some of the others in Club Treasurer. She loves the village of Temù. Everyone seemed very friendly. the outdoors and most After stocking up on food, we began an hour-long drive activities associated with The following day, Monday, we had a very early start. to the beginning of our trek. them. She was an We began walking from La Resega, Val Saviore. We electronic design After a night of heavy rain – some of the small amount engineer in a past life passed through or by a variety of terrains – forests, but is now a primary lakes (i.e. Lago D’Arno) and rivers – and saw a schoolteacher, having beautiful array of local wild flowers in full bloom made the transition a (Paths 20, 20A and 89). few years ago. As we ascended, we had to plough through a lot of MAUREEN TOOMEY COLLECTION snow to reach our lodgings for the night, at Rifugio Maria e Franco, at the Derna Pass. The trek took about 7½ hours and was quite hot at times, before we hit the snow. The guardian of the refuge came down the snow to meet and greet us! We were the only people staying there that night. We quickly got to know each other Trekover a Stage drink, #2: sitting by the hot stove, reading books, Rifugioplaying cardsMaria and e Franco sharing to the Rifugio one dorm. Lissone The food in the refuge was delicious.

We started early on day two, to avoid the thunderstorms that were predicted for that evening. On the final stretch of our last day (Day 5) We put on our crampons before leaving the refuge, to tackle the snow. Within a few minutes I found myself  up to my waist in snow and had to be dug out by Alun Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 25 Richardson, using an ice-axe! Care had to be taken at times, crossing the snow. FEATURES SUMMER ALPINE TREK

Above the wonderful Maria Franco hut

We took off our crampons as we approached Passo arrived at our destination, Rifugio Lissone, after seven di Campo at 2,298m (Path 1). After a short break, we Trekhours Stage of trekking. #3: Unlike the previous night, we had to started along the Ignaga ridge, which is the most Rifugioshare the Lissone accommodation to Rifugio with Prudenzini about seventy Italian exposed and hardest section of the entire trek, passing teenagers, who were on a retreat with several priests! Passo di Gnaga at 2,525m on the way. The ridge had recently been equipped with wire cables and steps. The view onto the Adamello glacier from here is supposed to be spectacular on a clear day but, because We began day 3 of our trek with another early start. of the heavy fog when we were there, our visibility was This stage is highly interesting from a geological poor. Probably just as well with the steep drops perspective. The wonderful Valle Adamè is a textbook surrounding us! Various World War I remains were example of a U-shaped valley. The enchanting Adamè evident during the trek. River springs from Alpine meadows at altitude and has We had to do a glacier crossing just before we cut its way deep into the valley floor. After about an

A happy team outside the Rifugio Tonolini (2,450m) after a long day crossing from the Rifugio Prudenzini Photographs: ALUN RICHARDSON

26 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 FEATURES SUMMER ALPINE TREK

hour, we decided to have an early morning coffee stop at Rifugio Adamè. This quaint little place served wonderful coffee and hot chocolate, which we had next to a warm stove. The ascent from there to the Passe di Poia at 2,810m was challenging due to its length and the altitude gain, crossing large boulder-fields along the way. The views were stunning, however. When we reached the pass, we decided to put our crampons on and rope up for the steep snow descent on the other side. It was nerve-wracking beginning the initial descent, especially at the front of the rope! We took our crampons off after descending into the next valley where we finished the day’s trek with a nice leisurely walk to our lodgings for the night – at Rifugio Prudenzini. It had been another seven-hour day. We were the only people staying there and we entertained ourselves over a few Trekdrinks, Stage eating #4: dinner and playing various games. RifugioThere was Prudenzini a spectacular to Rifugio thunder Tonolini and lightning storm as we went to sleep.

The fourth day was an interesting stage because of the fauna we saw, which included a rare snow grouse. After another early start, we launched into a Going up the exposed ridge past Monte 583m climb to the Miller Pass at ~2,750m. Here we Campellio and on to the Rifugio Lissone had to put on crampons and rope up on a ledge that was little bigger than a dining table! After the initial steep descent, we made good progress. Once we reached Rifugio Gnutti, in the Valle del Miller, we stopped for refreshments and kicked off the boots! After that, we began a nice gradual climb past a beautiful lake to Rifugio Tonolini. joined a dirt track for vehicles, we saw our first vehicle After an 8½-hour day, we had a celebratory drink in five days! After a seven-hour hike, at the official end sitting outside the refuge, which was super, with the of the trek, a van had been arranged to take us back to best tiramisu I’ve ever eaten! The location was the campsite. This drive was an experience in itself – amazing, surrounded by mirror-like lakes and not for the faint-hearted! mountains, and with ibex roaming around. We had a We were sad to finish the trek. It had been an great evening with infectious laughter and ended the amazing five days – out in total wilderness with Trek Stage #5: stunning views. We had a celebratory dinner that night Rifugionight with Tonolini a disco backusing to head campsite torches at on Temù intermittent settings! in the village of Temù. The remaining two days were spent exploring the tiny village, visiting the excellent World War I museum, catching up with fellow climbers and sunbathing or The last day of the trek, Friday, was interesting reading by our tents! We had a barbeque, slide-show, anthropologically. Val d’Avio is noteworthy for its Irish dancing and singsong on the Saturday night. impressive hydroelectric reservoirs, the industrial Overall,■ it was a fantastic week with great fun, archaeology and, above all, the majestic north and climbing experiences, views, food and excellent guides. west faces of Monte Adamello. At 3,554m above sea We would highly recommend anyone to give it a go. level, the peak juts out from the Adamello glacier. It is ‘ItEven had if you go been alone, it anwill not amazing take long to make five the biggest in Italy and the only one in the Alps to friends! feature the typical Scandinavian plateau glacial days – out in total wilderness configuration. We began our trek with an ascent through boulder- with stunning views. We fields, snow and ice to the Passo Premassone at 2,835m. We had a panoramic view at this point. After a were sad to finish our trek.’ break to admire the scenery, we roped up and began our descent, taking great care on very icy snow on the otherWinter side 2013 of the pass. We passed beautiful lakes, Irish Mountain Log 27 rivers, waterfalls and forests on our way down. As we FEATURES HILLWALKING

Lackabane and Tooreenbaha on the south ridge of the Cummeengeera Horseshoe in the Caha Mountains, seen from the Glanmore Lake side

Circuit of Cummeengeera SIMON STEWART identifies a route encompassing seven summits in the Cummeengeera Horseshoe in the Caha Mountains of Cork and Kerry. He

All photographs by: SIMON STEWART shares the route with fellow hillwalkers on the website MountainViews.ie

n several visits over the years to the Caha direct sunlight to bring out the colours, and clear air Mountains on the Beara peninsula in counties to exploit the huge views. While this is a rare ICork and Kerry, I had experienced their combination in Ireland, you can sometimes get lucky. unique qualities. On some of these visits I had We had got used to continuing badth weather in the been on the Cork-Kerry border, but I had not endless winter of 2012/13 but, when the five-day continued beyond Hungry Hill to Cummeengeera. forecast for the weekend of June 8 2013 was good, Reading about the Cummeengeera Horseshoe, weGetting took the opportunityready to travel to Kenmare and do however, had whetted my appetite. the walk. Another motivator was my desire to climb all of the Vandeleur-Lynams, the 269 summits that meet the criteria laid down by Joss Lynam and published by In the past, we have relied solely on maps and MountainViews.ie. These summits are of 600m guidebooks to plan our routes, and we used both for elevation or more and have a minimum of 15m drop this trip. However, we can now also get data from the or prominence. There are two of them on the ever-increasing resources of MountainViews.ie. In Cummeengeera circuit and more from other lists of this case, a contributor to the website had shared a summits, particularly if you choose to visit the track around the inner (western) part of the summits at the ends of the horseshoe, as we did. Cummeengeera circuit. We could see where he had We were also interested in accurately establishing parked, what his route was, how he crossed the river the heights of the summits. For this purpose we had and that he took just over five hours to complete it. access to a ‘differential’ GPS, which can generally However, we were interested in also visiting the measure to an accuracy of 10cm. Uniquely, much of summits at both ends of the ridge, which he hadn’t the Cummeengeera circuit is at around 600m, so been to. These are Knocknaveacal and Tooreenbaha. accurate measurement might or might not change the Helen Lawless, Mountaineering Ireland’s status of some of the mountains there. Hillwalking, Access and Conservation Officer, was able MountainViews has surveyed over eighty Irish to confirm one vital part of the route from club summits so far in this way. 28 Irish Mountain Log experience. This was that you can start onWinter the Beara 2013 For those interested in photography, there is huge Way just south of Lauragh, which provides access to potential in this area. The land and seascape needs Knocknaveacal via the rough ground on its north side. FEATURES HILLWALKING

The Hills of Cork and Kerry

For the walk’s end, we studied the OSi 1:10,000 namely Knockatee. Famously, Richard Mersey, who map and air photo that MountainViews incorporates. wrote one of the best books about walking in Kerry, From the last proposed summit, Tooreenbaha, the (Sutton Publishing, 1987), land looked moderately steep, but the air photo started climbing hills with an ascent of Knockatee in showed likely ways through crags. a sort of rite of passage. He is commemorated on the The next challenge was the substantial Drimminboy summit. Currently, Mersey’s stories are a bit scarce, River. The mapping shows a bridge, handy when but you can easily read up on nearby places like coming northwards off Tooreenbaha and not near any Knockatee in MountainViews. Knocknagullion, THE AUTHOR houses or cultivated fields. We decided to give this opposite on Iveragh, has colourful associations: it had Simon Stewart is the bridge route a try, although there were other guest appearances from the first head of MI5, and publisher of the Irish hillwalking website possibilities. We were not sure about ownership and former President Cearbhall Ó Dálaigh, and Big The early rewards MountainViews.ie. Since didn’t find anyone about to ask at the beginning of the Bertha, the oldest cow in the world. writing this article, he has day, nor when we crossed it at the end. For photography that day, some of the ingredients completed his round of were right – for example, the great view of the current list of the 269 Knockatee’s top seen over the sea inlet of Vandeleur-Lynams. Climbing Knocknaveacal on a good day is a treat. Kilmakilloge with good, slightly diffuse sunlight but Ascending brings a widening view of the Kenmare significant amounts of white mist somewhat ‘river’ and the multiple ridges of the Iveragh bleaching the colour. As against that, the mist served peninsula displayed as a long panorama. Nearer is to separate the summit, at 7km away, from the one of the most perfect small summits in Ireland, background, at around 30-35km.

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 29 FEATURES HILLWALKING

Iveragh peninsula, Co Kerry, as seen from the Beara peninsula

Knocknaveacal’s north side resembles a striking The broad ridge south is undemanding walking but trident of ridges pointing to the sea. There had been visually rewarding. Across the Kenmare ‘river’ is the speculation on MountainViews that it could be biggest of the Kerry peninsulas, Iveragh, and in classified as a summit in its own right rather than particular the Dunkerrons range, some 56km long. In just a spur off the nearby Tooth Mountain (same summiteering, we walked much of this over the years. name, different language). Apart from the Vandeleur- The view becomes a tapestry of remembered Lynams, MountainViews maintains a family of lists, adventures. At Fermoyle, just north of Sneem and including one list that is relevant here, the Arderins. under the ridge from Coomnacronia (aka Com na To be a summit of the class, it would need an Cróine, ‘hollow of the red cow’) to Finnararagh (aka elevation of at least 500m and a drop or prominence An Corrán), we met a friendly farmer who guided us between it and Tooth of at least 30m. Our initial to a place to park in his yard. He insisted on giving us measurements established that this is narrowly true. country bread and ham sandwiches, large and free, In fact, there may even be two independent summits, before showing us the way across his land to the separated by a steep-sided col. lonely lake at Coomnacronia. On the way back from Following Tooth, we reached Coomacloghane. A visiting our three target tops, he appeared on the bottle at the top contained a memorial to one Teddy hillside with a big quad, so big that he scooped the Sheehan, with a soggy log of people who had visited. two of us up and brought us to our car. We dried, signed and returned it. Marked at 599m by Much better known is Mullaghnattin, sometimes the OS, this would be an obvious candidate for a called the Matterhorn of Kerry because of its shape as Vandeleur-Lynam were it to turn out to be over 600m seen from the east. It is still a striking sight from the – and indeed it seemed to be, though we will be Cahas, though less angular and made less solitary by confirming all of our measurements. In the Beann to its southwest. It makes a memorable circuit, meantime, if you want to climb the Vandeleur- but the access story is different there from Fermoyle, Lynams, don’t miss this possible addition if you are so you should research it before going. nearby! MountainViews has information about the area

Surveying Coomacloghane All photographs by: SIMON STEWART

30 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 which may help – including information about Beann So far, we share some 500 tracks around Ireland South Top and An Cnoc Riabhach. created by over fifty users and of use to everyone Reaching Eskatarriff by way of the ridge (part of the planning on walking them. The complete track for the border between Cork and Kerry), we confirmed its circuit described here (17.8km, 1065m climbing) is height of 600m. The views here are increasingly available to view on MountainViews and to use in a dominated by the South Cahas with and later GPS, and it is possible to add further comments or Hungry Hill being well-known landmarks. local information. It is also nice to see what other It was then we came upon the most dramatic shape people have said about a place. For example, a of the day, Eskatarriff East Top, which sits like a bear’s comment from 2004 confirmed our impression of molar rooted in the Cummeengeera valley headwall. Eskatarriff East Top, saying “Just beyond Eskatarriff, The north-facing cliffs of Cummeengeera are the this summit [Eskatarriff East Top] is much more steepest slopes on the circuit, and Eskatarriff East Top dramatic than its bigger brother to the west.” really shows them off. Climbing it is easy via a grassy In conclusion, this was■ a really great day-walk, slope, but then you are surrounded on three sides by visiting seven summits with great stories, great drops of up to 300m. views, if a little misty, and the tantalising likelihood Beyond Lackabane – another Vandeleur-Lynam at that‘Eskatarriff some of the summits East could Top be identified is easy as to 602m – the ridge sharpens to a near knife-edge spur havingclimb…but a higher status you are surrounded on northeast. Tooreenbahath (Tuairín Beatha, ‘little field of life(?)’) is not named on the OS 1:50,000. However, in three sides by drops of up to 300m’ the latest reprinting (4 edition), like other summits of sufficient prominence, it has a circular marker to make it easier to identify the top on the ground. MountainViews, which supplied the data for these markers, has a page about each, including information about the name. Interestingly, Tooreenbaha also has an excellent photographic viewpoint for Knockatee. Descending from Tooreenbaha turned out to be easy enough, though it is heavily vegetated towards the bottom of the slope. The route follows a stony track across uncultivated land and over a bridge to the public road. At the upstream parking, you are likely to be asked to pay €4 a head for access and use of a bridge, a charge almost unique in the Irish uplands. No demand was made of us to pay anything for the routeTo wrap we took. up... However, the walking distance is longer.

As a summiteer, I do indeed like marking off a listed summit, a step further on whatever I am working on. However, a walk like this also means an opportunity to try somewhere new and share the experience. Eskatarriff East Top MountainViews helps in doing both. As well as helping with planning hikes, as described earlier, the Winterwebsite 2013 analyses an uploaded track to create stats, a Irish Mountain Log 31 start icon on the map and a colour-coded display, based on walking speed, for the map. FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

Part III: 12th Century to Recent Past

Archaeologist MARTIN FITZPATRICK concludes his series of articles on the monuments that may be encountered in the Irish hills.

IML 106 IML 107)

The aims of this and previous articles in this catalogued and ultimately protected for future

series (see and have been generations.th to detail the features of archaeological This article deals with archaeological monuments interest that may be encountered during from the 12 century through to the recent past, and hikes in the Irish uplands, and to encourage all users it speculates what ‘present day’ features might form www.archaeology.ie.of the hills to assist in preserving upland monuments part of this list in the future. by appreciating, respecting and reporting them. An introductionth to some monuments of the If you are uncertain of the status of a monument medieval period is followed by a general insight into that you encounter, you can check it online at post-17 century features. The vast number and This online facility also allows range of known sites from this period necessitates for the reporting of new thmonuments. The database that they be divided under broad headings. It is records all monuments on a county basis from the hoped that highlighting some examples will earliest period to the 17 century. Unfortunately, th encourageRELIGIOUS users ORDERS of the hills toAND take note of the many of the features we encounter in the Irish hills features they come across and, that by working post-date the 17 century and as such are in many THE ANGLO-NORMANS All photographs by: MARTIN FITZPATRICK together, we may be able to identify and record them. cases not part of the archaeological record. As the people who use the uplands today, we have an opportunity to ensure that all monuments, th irrespective of age, are respected, identified, The 12 century saw dramatic changes in Ireland with the arrival of the Anglo-Normans and new religious orders from continental Europe. The Cistercians first settled at Mellifont in in 1142 and within ten years over thirty Cistercian monasteries had been founded throughout the country. While many were not associated with the uplands, some, such as at Corcomroe, Co Clare, nestled on a hillside and are a reminder today of the changing face of the Irish landscape. The monasteries, which were usually situated in isolated locations, played a major role in agricultural development as in many cases the surrounding lands were cleared and reclaimed. The influx of continental monastic orders included the arrival of Franciscans, Augustinians and Dominicans during the medieval Ice house on Slieve Donard th 32 Irish Mountain Log period. Winter 2013 The 12 century also saw the arrival of the Anglo- Normans who, by the end of the century, had FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

conquered much of the country. This period saw the construction of manorial villages, stone castles and walled towns. It is difficult to determine the extent of upland settlement during this period. However, it is likely that ringforts and promontory forts were occupied continuously, while archaeological excavations in the Beara peninsula have dated hut features and charcoal 14kilnsth toTO this 16 generalth CENTURY period.* We can assume that the Anglo-Norman invasion pushed some pre-existing cultures to the mountain fringes.

th th

The 14 and 15 centuries were periodsth of unrest during which there was sustained resistance from the Gaelic Irish to occupation. By the 16 century, this had resulted in Anglo-Norman control being restricted to walled towns and the Pale. The Gaelic resurgence is highlighted by the existence of over Ruins of Famine village fifty inauguration sites throughout the countryside. They are generally located on elevated sites or low hills and areth found in association with mounds, sacred trees, ringforts and inauguration stones. The 16 century, however, saw the English administration regaining control over much of the country, and vast tracts of land were transferred to resulting deaths, mass emigration and agrarian immigrant landlords. It was in the aftermath of FIELDrevolts meant BOUNDARIES, that many of the ENCLOSURES structures were successful planting and the success of the Williamite abandoned and survive in ruins on our mountain th AND STRUCTURES Wars that demesne landscapes developed and slopes today. flourished, from the 18 century on. These estates often incorporated palatial houses with associated gardens and landscape features. Killevy Castle demesne on the eastern slope of Slieve Gullion, Co The townland system is thought to have emerged at Armagh, Powerscourt estate in County Wicklow, and the end of the Christian period or at the beginning of Muckross estate in Killarney, Co Kerry, are but some the Medieval period, when every county and parish examples of estates in mountainous regions. was divided into units known as townlands. The It is hardly surprising that remnants of these discovery of important artefacts such as Bronze Age estates’ features are often encountered on our weapons and personal objects suggest these rambles. The ice-houselandedestates.ie. on the approach to Slieve boundaries replaced earlier, important land divisions. Donard in the Mournes is a good example. Townland boundaries are often natural features UPLANDAn important FARMING and interesting AND database THE FAMINE on the such as rivers and streams, but banks, ditches and ‘Landed Estates of Connacht and Munster from 1700 walls were also used to define townlands and all are to 1914’ is available at encountered on our ventures into the hills.

th

The 17 century saw the privatisation of former communal mountainsides that allowed for small farm communities to develop on the mountain slopes. These farm communities were based primarily on the rundale system where a ‘baile’ or group of farmhouses formed within a townland structure. The altitude to which this farming method was practiced generally depended on soil quality and the availability of peat. Between 1770 and 1840, upland rural dwelling increased five times faster than on lowlands. The resulting population surge was utilised to grow potatoes in the labour-intensive lazybeds that are a *featureLocal Worlds: of the Early upland Settlement landscape, Landscapes particularly and Upland in theFarming in South-West Ireland, by William O’Brien; published by Collins west of the country. The famines of the 1840s and the Press (2010). Pre-Famine potato ridges or lazybeds Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 33 FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

Besides the features associated with livestock, our venturesSIGNAL into TOWERS, the hills might MARTELLO also bring us TOWERS in contact with derelict lime kilns, corn kilns, kelp kilns, animal sheltersAND LIGHTHOUSES and turf shelters.

th The military fort at Duncannon, Co Waterford, was constructed at the end of the 16 century in anticipation of a Spanish Armada invasion. However, it wasn’t until the aftermath of the 1798 rebellion, and in particular the Napoleonic Wars, that the threat Boundary wall in the Burren, Co Clare of French invasion was considered and acted upon. The result was the construction of over eighty signal towers and fifty Martello towers around the coast. The signal towers were generally constructed between 1800 and 1806 as defensive guardhouses for naval signal crews. They were located on coastal The size of an upland townland is generally larger promontories and provided signal information about than its lowland counterpart, reflecting the poorer ship movements. The perilous location of these land quality and subsequent poorer yield for farming. structures can be seen in the example at Ballydavid A previous article in this series highlighted field on the Dingle peninsula, Co Kerry, which was constructed in 1801. A second signal tower on the walls and pre-bog walls identifiedth in the Irish uplands. However, the majority of the boundaries we other side of the peninsula overlooks Dingle harbour.th negotiate in the hills are 17 -century or later in date TRACKWAYSThis is known as Eask AND Tower ROADS and it was constructed and are the result of more extensive farming and the as a mariners’ beacon on Carahoo Hill in the 19 modernisation of Irish farms that saw the removal of century. hedgerows and field boundaries to be replaced with th posts and wire fencing. The most impressive wall in the Irish uplands must Prior to the 12 century, most journeys were on foot be that in the Mourne Mountains, constructed or horseback and were facilitated by a network of between 1904 and 1922 to enclose the water paths and tracks. Routes followed the line of least catchment area of the Mournes. resistance; the main highway from east to west was There are numerous structures associated with along the Esker Riada, from Dublin to Galway. agrarian development that we encounter in our Paths and tracks in the uplandsth were thprobably first approach to the uplands. We have previously used for accessing monuments and farming activities.

All photographs by: MARTIN FITZPATRICK highlighted huts and enclosures found on our However, it wasn’t until the 18 and 19 centuries mountain slopes that were formerly associated with that a network of roads and lanes was developed, the booleying tradition. However, many enclosures th primarily as a result of the re-organisation of estates were also constructed or adapted to act as animal into single landholdings. The laneways and narrow enclosures and pens from the 18 century onwards. roads spanned bridges, providing access to the uplands,BOGS just as they do today. The map of the roads of Ireland surveyed in 1777 by Taylor and Skinner provides an interesting insight to Irish roads.

There are two types of bogs defined by their location and altitude. Raised bogs are generally found in the central lowlands, while blanket bogs grow extensively in the western and northern areas where there is higher rainfall. Blanket bogs occur in elevated locations and, as such, are what we slip, slide and sink in on our adventures in the uplands. Blanket bogs developed after a considerable period of human settlement and as such they may cover signs of previous human activity. The general inaccessibility of these bogs has prevented large- Enclosure in the Burren, Co Clare scale commercial cultivation. However, small-scale local harvesting is often still practiced today. Short 34 Irish Mountain Log lengths of stone wall on raised ground areWinter often 2013 encountered while out walking and are a remnant of turf-drying methods still employed in some regions. FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

* * * * * *

This series has highlighted a sample of featuresth of archaeological significance in the Irish uplands dating from the Neolithic period to the 20 century.

While the earlier periodsth saw activity in the form of burials, ritual monuments and limited settlement, it wasn’t until the th17 century and later that the uplands were opened to intensive settlement and farming. The 19 -century famine led to a general abandonment of the higher ground, but remnants of the legacy survive in house ruins, tracks, walls, th th enclosures and, of course, lazybeds. Eask Tower: a 19 -century signal tower overlooking Dingle harbour, Co Kerry The development of a road network in the 18 century provided easier access to the mountains and facilitated upland developments for the following two hundred years. An example of these would include

THE AUTHOR Martin Fitzpatrick is a professional archaeologist, an avid hillwalker and a member of Mountaineering Ireland. If you have any queries in relation to archaeological monuments in the uplands, you can contact him at martin@ Stone wall used for drying archconsultancyltd.com. sods of peat turf in Co Kerry

th the 19 -century copper mines at Allihies on the Beara peninsula; water reservoirs such as that on in the Wicklow Mountains; forestry projects; mobile phone and satellite masts; and more recently the large-scale development of wind farms throughout the island’s uplands. No doubt the remnants of these developments will provide features of interest for future generations, ®but we must also ensure that the surviving remnants of past generations are appreciated, respected and recorded. ■ I welcome any enquiries, photos or reports in relation to any features encountered in the Irish uplands. I can be contacted at [email protected]

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 35 FEATURES HISTORICAL MOUNTAINEERING

Anthony Adams Reilly, Alpinist and cartographer John Tyndall, Alpinist and scientist How the Irish conquered the Alps DECLAN O’KEEFFE recounts how Irish Victorian Alpinists contributed to the exploration and conquest of the Alps in the 19th century

Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; His great rival for that peak was John Tyndall, one and from the beginning think what may be the end.” 1 of the many scientists who combined work and play in the Alps, as well as developing the techniques in the then fledgling sport of mountaineering that are still used today. Tyndall was also one of a number of Irish mountaineers who, through their involvement ith these somber words Edward in the Alpine Club and exploration of untracked Whymper, doyen of nineteenth- peaks, passes and glaciers, contributed to the growth century Alpine mountaineers, of the new pastime in Europe and around the globe. Wconcluded the stirring account of The history of the period and maps of the region

th his exploits during the golden age are peppered with the names of these Irish climbers, of Alpine mountaineering. That golden age came to who were significant players in the development of an1 Edward end on Whymper, July 14 in, Scrambles1865, with Amongst Whymper’s the Alps, revised the new sport of alpinism and the attendant leisure triumphantedition, Devon ascent (1986). and This tragic book descentwas originally of thepublished in industry that it spawned. They ranged from Grand 1871. Matterhorn. National winner Charles Barrington, first to climb the 36 Irish Mountain Log Eiger; to Elizabeth Le Blond, the first IrishWinter woman 2013 Alpinist; to Anthony Adams Reilly, cartographer of Mont Blanc; John Ball, first President of the Alpine FEATURES HISTORICAL MOUNTAINEERING

Mountaineering in Far-Away Glaciers of the Alps Countries.

Club; and Lord James Bryce, Chief Secretary of many works of popular science as well as his book Ireland and author of (1860). He is remembered also for ‘Tyndall’s Scattering,’ which explains why the sky The lives and Alpine paths of two of these Irish appears blue. He visited the Alps in 1856 to conduct pioneers, Anthony Adams Reilly and John Tyndall, research into the movement of glaciers and it was crossed with that of Whymper on the Matterhorn – as here that his love of climbing began to gain the upper companion and rival respectively – and it is with hand, although he still claimed that his primary these two that this article is concerned. motivation was scientific. THE AUTHOR Edward Whymper, a wood-engraving illustrator, Tyndall was eccentric in build and in manner, and Declan O’Keeffe is a was ill-fitted for many aspects of Victorian society, mountaineer and would-be Arctic explorer and amateur mountaineer, historian, and the editor first visited the Alps in 1860 and was immediately but the mountains seemed to bring him to life. He of the Journal of the Irish smitten. In a whirlwind six years, he stormed through relished the challenges and hardships he found there. Mountaineering and the range, recording many first ascents of mountains He was on hand to investigate an accident on the Col Exploration Historical du Géant in 1860, which claimed the lives of two Society. He has recently and numerous crossings of passes. Whymper was not completed a Masters in Britons and foreshadowed the Matterhorn disaster. initially impressed by the Matterhorn, which had Irish History in UCD and been one of the two highest unclimbed peaks left in His reconstruction of the calamity testified to his is currently conducting the Alps until the other – the Weisshorn – was twin skills as a scientist and mountaineer, as well as research into aspects of the history of Irish claimed in 1861 by the man who would become his reinforcing his view that the new sport was replete A love of climbing with latent danger. mountaineering. Declan great rival, Professor John Tyndall from is a former President of The ascent of the Weisshorn in 1861 was a Leighlinbridge, Co Carlow.  Mountaineering Ireland considerable feather in his cap and, from its summit, and is a member of UCD he had sight of his next objective, the Matterhorn, Mountaineering Club. Although born of poor parents and educated in the which‘John had already Tyndall’s repulsed him the ascent previous year. of By local national school, Tyndall proved a good student the time Tyndall returned the following July (1862), and an excellent mathematician. In 1839, he found the Weisshorn in 1861 employment in the Ordnance Survey, following this with a stint as a railway engineer before taking a was a considerable Doctorate in Natural Philosophy in the University of feather in his cap’ Marburg in Germany (1850). He was subsequently made a Fellow of the Royal Society and Professor of Natural Philosophy at the Royal Institution. Tyndall was an excellent lecturer and published

A young Edward Whymper, English Alpinist Edward Whymper in middle age

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 37 FEATURES HISTORICAL MOUNTAINEERING

‘Anthony Adam Reilly produced an entirely original map of Mont Blanc’

2 the empire, but “in the middle of the world’s smallest, most densely populated continent…a wilderness, which was not properly mapped until the late nineteenth century.” A major contributor to filling in the blanks on the maps was Anthony Adams Reilly from Belmont Pic Tyndall (left), on western shoulder of the Matterhorn House, near Mullingar, Co Westmeath, whose path would also cross that of Whymper’s in the latter’s quest for the Matterhorn. Following his second visit to the Alps in 1862, Reilly began to realise the extent of the errors – both of omission and commission – that permeated the Whymper had already tried and failed no less than maps of the region. He determined to remedy the four times in three weeks. situation himself and returned to Chamonix in June of The two men met – to their mutual surprise – and the following year to commence work. Using a discussed the possibility of a combined attempt, but combination of triangulation, photographs and the plan foundered on the issue of who would be panoramic drawings, he accumulated much data, leader. Tyndall had assembled a strong party and set which he worked on over the following winter and off, leaving a disconsolate Whymper to await spring to produce an entirely original map of Mont developments, but Tyndall, too, was turned back by Blanc. unexpected difficulties, allegedly close to the summit. Reilly’s work had brought him to the attention of He had had enough and declared the mountain to be Whymper, who saw in him a potential companion for inaccessible. the Matterhorn. Reilly accepted Whymper’s proposal, Although Tyndall returned to the Alps every season but only on condition that Whymper first help him to until the end of the decade, he made no more first explore the areas necessary for completion of his ascents. Joss Lynam speculated that he seemed to map. have lost interest after 1862 and that his subsequent In eight days at the beginning of July (1864) the climbs were much below his abilities. He was in pair, accompanied by some of the most experienced Zermatt in 1865 to assist in the search for Lord guides in the region, made several new ascents and Francis Douglas’s remains after the Matterhorn crossings while filling in the gaps on Reilly’s map. disaster, and in 1868 he gained the consolation prize Whymper was fulsome in his praise for Reilly, not of making the first traverse of the mountain. knowing “which to admire most, the fidelity of [his] Tyndall was a fine mountaineer and the most map, or the indefatigable industry by which the successful Irish Alpinist of the period, but he was materials were accumulated from which it was fated to operate in the shadow of his rival Whymper. constructed.” He noted that it was difficult enough to That he was well thought of in the mountaineering traverse these mountains without also “making community is evident by the honorary life sketches and notes under the most adverse memberships bestowed on him by the Alpine Clubs conditions and in the most trying situations.” of France, Italy and Switzerland. Reilly’s map was finally published by the Alpine By contrast, he had an uneasy relationship with the Club in 1865 at a scale of 1:80,000 and prompted an original of the species in London, where he was made immediate response from a French government a vice-president in 1861, only to resign almost incensed to be shown up by a foreigner. They immediately over a perceived slight to scientists. Ill commissioned the production of a 1:40,000 map and health saw him resign his various posts in 1887 and Reilly was so co-operative with the cartographers Thehe retired life to ofhis countryReilly house in Surrey where he that several features in the region were named after died in 1893 – following the accidental him, including a peak and a pass. The map was administration of an overdose of chloral by his wife. published by the Alpine Club to great acclaim, but 2 Fergus Fleming, Killing Dragons (London, 2000), vi. Reilly’s Alpine career was already winding down and he only made two further visits, in 1869 and 1873, 38 Irish MountainWhat Log distinguished the tragedy on the Matterhorn Winter 2013 was that it had taken place, not in a remote region of FEATURES HISTORICAL MOUNTAINEERING

The Weisshorn (4,505m) above the Mattertal, seen from Hannisalp above Graechen, Switzerland

Photograph: WOUDLOPER

and neither to any great effect. pass an unjust judgement upon a single human Troubled by the disturbances in Ireland, he being.” returned “to dwell amongst his own people.” In 1884, he was visited by an erstwhile climbing partner, * * * * * * Charles Mathews, who found him an old man at the Tyndall and Reilly are just two of a number of Irish age of 48, suffering from rheumatism. The following Alpine Journal Victorian mountaineers whose achievements have year, he had a stroke and died. been but quietly sung. Each made different By contrast with the irascible Tyndall, Reilly was contributions to the golden age of Alpine fondly thought of amongst his mountaineering peers mountaineering in general, and to the first ascent of and Mathews’s obituary in the was the Matterhorn, in particular. Tyndall, with his effusive in its praise, noting that he had never heard combative nature, spurred Whymper (literally) to Reilly “say anything to anyone’s disparagement or greater heights, while Reilly’s gift was more to the general climbing community. Nonetheless, he too assisted Whymper on his way and, but for the cancellation of an attempt in 1864, might well have climbed the Matterhorn with him, as a result of ®which the subsequent course of Alpine history might have been much different and possibly a lot less dramatic. Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical For more on the history of Irish Victorian Society, mountaineers and the history of Irish mountaineering in general,■ see the

which is available from Mountaineering SourcesIreland. The fourth volume of the journal will appear Duffy,in the springMichael of 2014& Higgins, Kevin. Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society Fleming, Fergus. Killing Dragons. Maguire, Noel. ‘The Life O’Reilly.’ Mountain Log: (2002): 17-18. London (2000). Whymper, Edward. Scrambles Amongst the Alps. James Bryce, Chief Secretary of Ireland (1905-1907) ‘John Tyndall: Irish Victorian Scientist and Alpinist.’ FMCI Winter 2013 Newsletter, No 16 (1982): 7. Irish Mountain Log 39

Revised edition. Devon (1986). FEATURES TOUR DU MONT BLANC

Looking across the Chamonix Valley to Mont Blanc Trekking around Mont Blanc EUGENE McGETTRICK sets off on his own to attempt the Tour du Mont Blanc

Day one

he Tour du Mont Blanc (henceforth TMB) is Ta 170km trek that goes around the Mont Rain with the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms Blanc Massif, passing through France, Italy was forecast, so after breakfast I set off and made a and Switzerland. fast climb to the Col De Voza (1653m) in an effort to The route goes over several high mountain passes beat the rain to the pass. However, the weather variantes and takes trekkers through or above seven valleys, stayed dry, so after reaching the col I enjoyed a with a total ascent of roughly 10,000 metres. In relaxing saunter downhill through forests and addition, several alternative paths (known as hamlets. ) allow hikers to experience more rugged Along the way, I met a solo French trekker and and usually more scenic options for short sections of together we completed the last few kilometres to Les the route. Contamines. Here, he headed off to find a campsite The main trekking season for the TMB runs from and I went to look for accommodation at the Club mid-June to the end of September (weather Alpin Francais refuge. Since it was still early in the season, I hadn’t booked anything, and luckily a large permitting) and during that period around 10,000 group had cancelled, so the only other guests there people complete the circuit each year, with July and were a Frenchman and an English couple from August being the busiest months. Day two Cumbria, whom I became good friends with along Refuges offer food and accommodation along the the route. way, so trekkers can travel lightly. For trekkers who don’t mind carrying the extra weight, camping facilities are also available. The following morning, there was a light drizzle I began the trek alone during the last week of June falling, so after breakfast I donned my raingear from the town of Les Houches in France, near before setting off. The trail exited Les Contamines All photographs: EUGENE McGETTRICK Chamonix. By choosing late June I hoped to avoid any and followed a watercourse uphill through a ravine 40 Irish Mountainlate Log snow on the higher passes and also to get a paved with ancient slabs, which Roman armiesWinter had 2013 headstart on the crowds that would descend on the marched over. trail in early July. The route traversed open hillsides shrouded in FEATURES TOUR DU MONT BLANC

Rifugio Elisabetta and the Glacier de la Lée Blanche

‘A herd of ibex appeared outside the rifugio, sending thick mist, so the scenery was left mainly to my excited guests scurrying imagination. I entered a rock-field, where the paint markings for their cameras’ and small stone cairns guided me through safely. Shortly after successfully negotiating the rock-field, I reached the Col du Bonhomme (2329m) and, a little later, the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, which, at 2483m, would be the highest point of the day. THE AUTHOR While I chatted to another trekker here, the mist Eugene McGettrick has suddenly began to dissipate. As I made the long continued climbing until we reached the picturesque hiked in many parts of Col de la Seigne which, at 2516m elevation, would be the world, including the Daydescent three to the tiny hamlet of Les Chapieux, the Southern and Northern weather continued to improve, revealing green our gateway from France into Italy. From there, the scenery was spectacular. Blooming Alps, Alaska, British sloping hills all around. Columbia and California, wild flowers carpeted the lower slopes in a where he lived for profusion of colours. Jagged, rocky peaks dropped several years and Day three began with a hike up a narrow tarmac off to the first of three valleys that stretched all the worked in park management. His work road through the scenic Vallée de Glaciers. That day, I way to Switzerland, a three-day trek farther on. Towering over this Alpine panorama was western meant that he had to hiked with the couple from Cumbria, David and Gaye, take a lot of ‘busman’s Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc (4807m). whom I had met at the Club Alpin Francais in Les holidays’ there! Contamines. The road became an uphill track that A stiff wind was being funnelled through the pass, so we found a sheltered spot and ate lunch. Afterwards, we descended into Italy, passing a former customs hut, now an interpretative centre. An hour’s hike through the valley brought us to our accommodation for the night, the Rifugio Elisabetta, situated on a hillside below the Glacier de la Lée DayBlanche. four That evening, a herd of ibex appeared outside, sending excited guests scurrying for their cameras.

The next morning, I set off again, travelling with Gaye and David for another day of glorious mountains, sunshine and wild flowers. In the afternoon, we arrived in the charming town of Courmayeur. This An ibex wades through an alpenrose meadow would be our last shopping opportunity for several days, so naturally we availed of essential supplies –  such as pizza and ice cream. In the evening, we Winter 2013 enjoyed a free Celtic music concert and, later, a tippleIrish Mountain Log 41 or two of inexpensive, but good, Italian wine. FEATURES TOUR DU MONT BLANC

The scenic Col de la Seigne, our gateway from France into Italy

Day five

after Walter Bonatti, the famous Italian climber from The following day, a stiff climb took us above yesteryear. The rifugio has a reputation for serving Courmayeur (and left some of us wishing the Italian up generous dinner portions, and that evening was wine wasn’t so affordable). The trail entered some no different. After stuffing ourselves with salad and macaroni, our thoughts turned to dessert. Instead, larch and juniper woodlands before reaching the several large plates of meatballs, potatoes and open meadows. Along this stretch, Mont Blanc vegetables arrived. A look of astonishment (or maybe revealed its splendour: snow-fields, hanging glaciers Day six horror) crossed some guests’ faces, but the shock was and soaring rock walls filled the skyline, and in the overcome and the food was devoured. clear mountain air western Europe’s highest point stood out brilliantly in white against a cerulean sky. In the foreground, several wild flower species, The next day, we made a steep climb to the Grand Col including alpenrose, harebell, clover, yarrow and Ferret (2537m), which took us into Switzerland. gentian, coloured the sun-drenched meadows in a Along the way we had our first sighting of a marmot tapestry of blooms; it was a hiker’s dreamland. as it watched us with cautious curiosity. From the col, All that morning we enjoyed the views, and in the we could see all the way back to the Col de la Seigne, afternoon we reached the Rifugio Bonatti, named where we had entered Italy three days earlier.

View from the French side All photographs: EUGENE McGETTRICK

42 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 Ahead of us, the scenery on the Swiss side was less dramatic, with sloping hills indented with Daysnow-filled seven hollows. We dropped down the mountainside to our pre-booked accommodation, the Gîte de la Léchère.

The following morning, we descended to the tiny hamlet of La Fouly. The TMB then meandered through the pastoral Val Ferret, passing woodland and the enchanting villages so typical of DaySwitzerland. eight After a steep climb, we arrived at our end-of-day destination: the lakeside village of Champex.

The next day, I set off alone on an alternative route that would take me over a high pass, the Fenêtre D’Arpette, while my Cumbrian friends stayed on the TMB, going via the Alp Bovine. Initially, my path travelled up a scenic valley, the Val D’Arpette, and then it entered a large rock-field where the hiking became tedious because it was impossible to get into a regular stride. Before noon, I reached the Fenêtre D’Arpette (2665m), a notch between two rocky peaks. From there, I could see the nearby Trient glacier spilling dramatically out of a hillside on the left. Below me lay the head of the Vallée du Trient, a glaciated valley that breached the mountains to the northwest. The trail continued in this direction, remaining on the ridge above the valley. I passed the Chalet Daydu Glacier nine and soon arrived at the Col de La Forclaz, where Gaye and David were already relaxing at the Hotel de la Forclaz.

Mt Blanc, Italian side Day nine brought us to the Swiss-French border at the scenic Col de Balme (2191m). We descended the mountainside into France before climbing again to the L’Aiguillette des Posettes (2201m). From there, a downhill walk brought us to the tiny hamlet of Tré-le-Champ and our accommodation, the Gîte Auberge la Boerne, which turned out to be which snaked through the mountains like a dried-up one of the more interesting places we stayed at Dayriverbed. eleven After lunch, a downhill stroll brought us to during the trek. This rustic, timbered building the Refuge la Flégère, our accommodation for the oozed history from its centuries-old wooden beams night. Dayand, upstairs, ten a labyrinth of rooms, some of them not much more than crawl spaces, filled every nook and cranny. Day eleven was the final day of our Tour du Mont Blanc trek. Initially we traversed open hillsides before climbing to the Col du Brévent (2368m). The The next day, an uphill climb brought us to a rock path entered a stony basin, where we spotted our wall that we scaled using a series of metal ladders first chamois of the trip. and railings bolted into the rock-face. A little farther After climbing another ladder, we soon arrived at on, a side-trail beckoned us away from the main route Le Brévent which, at 2526m, was the high point of and guided us up past two scenic lakes (Les Lacs de the day. From there it was a long 1500m descent to Cherseys) to the Refuge du Lac Blanc, where we Les Houches, where we had begun the trek eleven stopped for lunch. days earlier. ■ From there, we enjoyed spectacular views of snow- During the descent, we continued to enjoy stunning fields, hanging glaciers and jagged peaks and, almost views of Mont Blanc’s suspended glaciers, clinging to directlyWinter 2013 across the valley, the huge channel carved the mountainside above the valley. It was a fittingIrish end Mountain Log 43 out by the now-receding glacier, La Mer de Glace, to a superb trek FEATURES FICTION

Raven, by DICK COOMBES The Last Hill An original short story by Don Baldwin

eeter felt strong today, just like in the wildness and silent solitude of these hills, which had old days when he was young and the been with him for so many years, long before the era mountains were new – new to him, that of Gortex and Dry-Flo, and when the emergence of a is – and the tracks and trails were yet to handful of army surplus stores were a godsend. be explored; when something new It had been the Army that had first introduced beckoned to be discovered over every virgin crest Peter to mountains, maps and compasses and the and within every hidden valley. rigours of long, arduous patrols through the hills with Even the smells, which he had become so blackened faces on winter nights. Still, it had infused accustomed to over the years, were sharper today; him with a love for the mountains which he had the sweet scent of heather and the smell of the salty taken with him when he left the Army. Even now, so air wafting in from the sea, laced with the tang of the many years later, he was still his own worst drill pine trees which were draped on the lower slopes. sergeant, forever driving himself up the next hill. Yes, Peter exulted in his trek today, the usual How Anne had teased him about the trickle of niggles and old ‘war wounds’ curiously absent as he military blood that still ran through his veins. It had climbed with ease up towards the ever ascending been the source of much amusement on their ridge, which stretched out above. Familiar stacks of hillwalks over the years, just like the laugh they had gabbro rock silently welcomed Peter like old friends shared over the first rain-jacket he had bought her. as he made his way up through the inviting cleft in Peter chuckled warmly as he recalled the perplexed the flank of the mountain. A raven called out a soft look on Anne’s face when he had steered her away warning to his partner, which glided majestically from a boutique and into an outdoor activities shop nearby, before banking away to mob a hawk, which to buy her her first hi-tech rain-jacket, as he had strayed into his airspace. Peter threw back his introduced her to his beloved hills. head and echoed back a throaty caw, revelling in the Anne grew to love the hills too, and they had shared a laugh often about her treasured lavender coat as they sipped hot coffee on the top of some windswept mountain. Of course, the kids had checked their gallop a little, considered Peter warmly, as he reached the crest of the ridge and drank in the view, which was indelibly etched on his memory; the sea, the lough and the distant mountains, all overlaid with the brooding interplay of grey cloud and sunlight, so unique to the Irish landscape. P In time, the children came to the hills too, for a 44 Irish Mountain Log while at least. Those were the ‘Golden Years,’Winter which 2013 flew past all too quickly. They were all grown up now and busy with careers and babies of their own. One FEATURES FICTION

poked Anne humorously as she stood before him, a gusting wind tossing unruly locks of auburn hair into her youthful green eyes. “I missed you,” blurted Peter, for some ridiculous reason. “I know,” answered Anne softly, “I was near.” “You were?” THE AUTHOR “Yes, I’ve been waiting for you, Peter,” explained Don Baldwin started Anne simply, extending her hand. “I think it’s time we mountaineering over pushed on. It’s getting late.” thirty years ago in the Cooley and Wicklow “I suppose it is,” conceded Peter, a deep sense of Mountains with the Irish understanding finally dawning, as Anne hauled him Defence Forces, and climbed in the minute you were ‘Super-Dad,’ the centre of their to his feet. “Best lead on then, soldier,” added Peter, noting that the evening was drawing in fast. mountains of South universe. Now you were lucky if you got a phone call. Lebanon where he Still, they were happy and getting on with their lives “Yes, Sir!” mocked Anne, snapping out her zany served with the UN. He and that’s all that mattered. Anne and he still had salute, before turning and heading on up the has been involved in mist-covered track. mountaineering ever each other, and the mountains, concluded Peter since and has “Wait!” Peter called out, alarmed. “My backpack.” It contentedly as he picked his way along the ridge, completed several although Anne didn’t come with him as often these was so unlike him to leave anything behind. Anne courses at Tollymore, days, not since her illness. turned and smiled reassuringly for a moment. “You’re including the Walking Group Leader scheme. Peter reached the Canteen, a formidable bulk of right, it doesn’t matter,” agreed Peter. Nothing else inclined rock that offered respite from the wind. really mattered now, because they were together, Here, he propped up his walking poles, dropped his they were in the mountains and they were heading backpack, sat and broke out his flask and sandwiches, home, accepted Peter peacefully, pausing to catch a as he had done so many times before. “Take refuge in glimpse of the fading sunset before following Anne the hills, there is still truth there,” mused Peter up the last hill. philosophically, absorbing his primordial * * * * * * surroundings, as he lay back against the cold, hard The nurse hadn’t expected to find a pulse. Secretly, rock. The mountain was his cathedral. This is where she had hoped she wouldn’t. The past year had he found his god, in the wild lonely places where seemed like the cruellest of tortures, for a once so ravens soared over a timeless landscape, just as it active man to now be trapped inside his stroke- was when he had first come to the mountains; and so stricken body. it would be when it was his time to leave. “I hope there’s mountains there, old timer,” said the Peter awoke with a jolt, startled by a large raven nurse kindly as she respectfully laid his lifeless hand vocally barraging him from a nearby boulder. How back down on the bed. “And I hope that she’s there had he fallen asleep? And how on Earth had the too,” added the nurse affectionately, as she paused in evening drawn in so quickly, puzzled Peter, as he eyed ■ the doorway to take a final glance at the vibrant the creature speculatively. “Alright, I’m awake,” he young couple in the faded photo, sharing some responded, reassured that the brazen bird meant him private joke with a mock salute, on top of some no harm. “Thanks, old friend,” offered Peter, shivering windswept mountain with the cold as the raven stared at him meaningfully, as if imparting some deep ancient message, then cawed one last time before flying off into the gathering mist. Peter felt cold, dangerously cold; his joints ached and all the old hurts had somehow come flooding back with a vengeance, and still he had one more hill to climb. Feeling old and worn, Peter gazed despondently at the track that snaked on up the hill into the thickening mist. Vacantly he watched as a faint flicker of movement tantalisingly appeared, then disappeared as quickly in the murky distance. There it was again, that movement, the outline becoming more definite in shape, in colour. Peter stared incredulously at the person in the lavender jacket as she came clearly into view. How could he have forgottenWinter 2013 that Anne was with him? Irish Mountain Log 45 “Well, are you going to sit there all day, soldier?” Books

regions. Some of these men Admiralty. explorer was Kerryman Tom would be unknown to readers Sadly, many of the early Crean, who twice went to the Antarctic with Shackleton. On but there are also men like Tom explorers lost their lives in the James the second expedition, the ship Crean, Jerome Collins and quest for the Northwest Caird, who would Passage, including Jerome was stuck fast and broken up by be well known to most. The Collins of Cork, who died in the pressure of ice. The crew took to the lifeboat, the book is a tour de force that northern Siberia but whose and rowed to Elephant includes details of the Irish body was recovered and buried explorers as well as some of the Island. From there, six of the in a cemetery overlooking the administrators and backers of crew, including Shackleton and River Lee, where his monument the many expeditions. Crean, rowed the boat 800 miles faces north. SEEK THE FROzEN LANDS: One of the lesser-known Irish to South Georgia, where they Another outstanding polar IRISH POLAR ExPLORERS polar explorers is Arthur Dobbs had to climb over the 1740-1922 MP, a native of Carrickfergus, Co mountains to get help By Frank Nugent Antrim, who, by extraordinary for those waiting on luck, had a chance encounter Elephant Island. with the Lord Lieutenant of Fortunately, all were saved. Ireland as a result of which Many other Irish The Collins Press (2013 (revised Dobbs led two Admiralty ships explorers are included edition)), 270pp, paperback, several to find a Northwest Passage Paddy Leahy Retired civil inengineer, this interesting has been and pages b/w photos, ISBN 978-1- from the Atlantic to the Pacific 84889-182-1, €14.99 (£11.99) informativehillwalking in book.Ireland and Ocean in 1741-’42. A few years abroad for 35 years. later he tried again, without Honorary life member of First issued by The Collins Press Admiralty support, returning in Coconuts Hill Walking in hardback in 2004, this Club and member of 1747. th important book has been The search for the Northwest Skibbereen Walking Group (both member revised and is now re-issued in Passage resumed in the 19 clubs of Mountaineering paperback. Frank Nugent’s century. Sir Edward Sabine, who Arthur Dobbs MP: 18th-century polar explorer Ireland). particularly gripping book was born in Dublin, took part as relates the stories of the many an astronomer in two quests for Irishmen who took part in the the Northwest Passage in 1818 early exploration of the polar and 1819, for the British

has been disputed, that of Cho Oyu, by landscape photographer Joe Cornish. reputedly the easiest and safest of the The difficulties inherent in photography fourteen peaks – although ‘easy’ and ‘safe’ at high altitude and in extreme conditions are very relative terms in this context. should not be underestimated, and the Here, you can read his own account of that photographs in this book are superb, and ascent. Most of the party set off for the top probably a deciding factor in whether or individually, at different times. The not you will want to buy it. weather changed and Alan continued Alan Hinkes provides an interesting and alone, spending “at least an hour and a sometimes humorous account of his half covering every inch of ground on the expeditions (27 attempts in all for the 14 summit plateau until, in the end, I was peaks). Occasionally, he seems to have absolutely certain that I could not get any gone beyond his own principle that “No 8000 METRES: CLIMBING THE WORLD’S higher. There was no more uphill. I was on mountain is worth a life, or a finger or toe HIGHEST MOUNTAINS the highest point at 8,201m.” to frostbite.” You can read how he By Alan Hinkes You either accept that account or you do retrieved the situation and returned safely not. There was no other witness. For what on each occasion. it may be worth, the ascent lists and web I was surprised, however, by the pages that I have seen, which dispute this omission of any route maps for the Cicerone (2013), 192pp, many colour photos ascent, seem to be anonymous, or else ISBN: 978-1-85284-548-3, £25 (€30) individual peaks, particularly as Alan were created by persons whose names are himself writes in the introduction that he not familiar to me. finds maps interesting and enjoys “a good This is a lavishly-illustrated coffee-table book, As well as accounts of the fourteen Petermap read.”O’Neill TheLiterary single Editor, map Irish page Mountain shows no an account of the expeditions undertaken by ascents, there are fourteen interesting Logmore than the location of the fourteen Alan Hinkes in becoming the first (and so far one-page articles covering topics including peaks. only)46 BritonIrish Mountain to climb allLog of the world’s 8000m (among others): famous climbers; dealing Winter 2013 peaks. with death; photography and filming; You may be aware that one of these ascents expedition diet; the trek in; plus one more who contributed significantly years of travelling through the “By far the greatest to the growth and development Alps. mountaineer in the early part of mountaineering, not only in Ball’s family were Catholic of this century,” according to the Alps but also on the Greater and strong supporters of Daniel Professor T Graham Brown,

Ranges. His book covers theth O’Connell. Ball had a career in the achievements of Valentine lives of these personalities set politics and in 1846 was Ryan are also considered in against major events of 19 - appointed an Assistant Poor some detail. century Ireland: Catholic Law Commissioner, who Then on to Charles Howard- Emancipation, the Famine, the oversaw the relief road works. Peaks, Bury, leader of the first Everest Land Wars, the War of When the Alpine Club was Passes and Glaciers, expedition in 1922, and Independence, and all of the established in 1857, he was culminating with Dawson tangled relations with the head-hunted to be its first PEAKS, PASSES & GLACIERS: Stelfox who, in 1993, became British Empire. President. He edited IRISH ALPINE PIONEERS the first Irishman to ascend Mountaineering evolved as a a record of By Frank Nugent Alpine Journal Everest as well as the first sport in the century of peace then current mountain ascents Irishman and incidentally the after the fall of Napoleon. This and the ancestor of this book. first Briton to ascend the peak was also the time of the This publication became the by the traditional North West economic rise of Britain and – still the The Collins Press (2013), 310pp, Ridge, the route of all of the many photos and sketches, ISBN: the growth of the railways, premier mountain annual 978-1-84889-178-4, €29.99 which gave quicker access to today. His Alpine guidebooks British attempts of the 1920s (£26.99) the Alps. However, travel was were the best of their time. In and 1930s. still the preserve of the rich, so short, he was the Joss Lynam of Copiously illustrated with period black-and-white One consequence of the Irish the subjects of this book were the Alpine Club. photographs, sketches, copies War of Independence in the virtually all from the wealthy, Other leading Irish Alpinists 1920s was that a veil was landed, aristocratic classes. are also included such as John of maps and photostats of drawn over the previous ruling One such is John Ball, son of Tyndall, Anthony Adams Reilly pages from original diaries, the class and Irish members of the the Attorney General, who first and Charles Barrington. In lives of the leading Alpine British forces. Ernest visited the Alps in 1827 at the addition, Lizzie Hawkins- guides who were engaged are Shackleton and age of nine. Educated in St Whitshed from Greystones, Co also detailed in sidebars. were airbrushed out of folk Mary’s Jesuit College, Oscott, Wicklow, went to Switzerland This is a book to savour and memory, as were those who and Christ’s College, in search of a cure for “an absorb slowly. An absolute Cambridge, he was later called inherited lung disorder.” She fell in the Great War. So also Johnmust I forMurray 2013’sMember Christmas of the Irish were the early Irish Alpinists. to the Irish Bar, but he never soon recovered and started a Mountaineeringstockings and Clubthe shelves of In this superbly researched practiced. Family wealth career that made her the finest every Irish mountaineer. and beautifully produced allowed him to follow his real lady climber of her generation, volume, Frank Nugent brings interests – nature, science and at a time when such activity vividly to life nineteen people botany – that led to twenty was seen as unladylike.

Having walked a few of the hardships, happy and sad Cholm Cille (Glencolmcille) in Ireland’s pilgrim paths myself, I times, and the struggles a Co Donegal, via Croagh Patrick thought it would be nice to pilgrim can encounter, are and Knock, both in Co Mayo; to read someone else’s view of there for the reader to St Bridget’s shrine in south them. However, this book is not experience. At times humorous Armagh; to Glendalough in Co exactly what I was expecting. I and airy, this is a very honest Wicklow; and finally finishing thought it would be written in a account of the writer’s trials with a walk along the Cosán na traditional guidebook style, but and tribulations, be they Naomh pilgrim path in Dingle, the book is definitely not a physical or spiritual, as he guidebook. It is more a travel follows the pilgrim paths in Co Kerry. TÓCHAR: WALKING account with a religious bent to Ireland. On the way, the book tells a IRELAND’S ANCIENT PILGRIM it. The foreword is written by The story begins with the human story, with the writer’s PATHS Fr Brian D’Arcy. writer’s account of his stay in St last sentence being: “The path By Darach MacDonald Stephen Bender Hillwalker and ‘Tóchar’ is the Irish word for Patrick’s Purgatory on Station ofclimber, the pilgrim member is of as Mountaineering long as life causeway. Although the writer Island on Lough Derg in County itself.”Ireland and owner of Endeavour describes his travels in a Donegal. Then, describing the Mountaineering reasonably detailed way, even landscape he travels through New Island (2013), 298pp, no images orWinter maps, 2013ISBN: 978-1-84840-247-8, including the times entailed, and the people he meets, he Irish Mountain Log 47 €14.99 the book is first and foremost meanders through the four the narrative of a pilgrim. All corners of Ireland, from Gleann Books

Reynolds has produced over minutes and picked up later balanced by several of fifty meticulously researched without having to get back in delightful sunsets and sunrises and detailed guidebooks, tune with the storyline. Many of after hard days on the hills. mainly published by Cicerone, a the tales are quite vivid and I There are also some poignant publisher synonymous with found Reynolds’ descriptions moments, such as his attempt mountain guidebooks. kicked off fond memories from to assist a blind izard, a goat- But this book is no my own travels. like antelope. His accounts of guidebook; rather it is a large The stories are quite varied, encounters with the border collection of Kev’s memorable ranging from near-misses with security services of France and moments from his fifty-plus crevasses and being taken in by EdmundSpain in FaganremoteHillwalker, areas will raise years of rambling around the a scam in the Himalaya, to his scrambler,a smile on member your face. of the Overall, Mountain a wilderness areas of Europe and encounters with mountain folk A WALK IN THE CLOUDS: Rescuedelightful services and inspiringin Wicklow. read! FIFTY YEARS AMONG THE beyond. However, it mentions who willingly offered MOUNTAINS many of the wild areas of the hospitality and company. His By Kev Reynolds world in such an inspiring way descriptions of the monotony that I found myself reaching for of rainy days are more than guidebooks and maps to check out how easy it would be for Cicerone (2013), 207pp, 12pp b/w me to get there. Nire Valley River Cottage photos, ISBN 978-1-85284-726-5, The book is divided into £12.95 Comeragh Mountains seventy-five mini-chapters 'ŽƌŐĞŽƵƐĐŽƩĂŐĞ grouped under the headings of ǁŝƚŚƌŝǀĞƌƐŝĚĞƚĞƌƌĂĐĞ This is a delightful little book ‘Atlas Mountains,’ ‘Pyrenees,’  from a man whose name will ‘Alps,’ ‘Himalaya’ and finally tĂůŬŝŶŽŵĞƌĂŐŚ͕ already be familiar to many ‘Other Places,’ which is a loose <ŶŽĐŬŵĞĂůĚŽǁŶΘ readers. collection of places including 'ĂůƚĞĞZĂŶŐĞƐ Kev Reynolds packed in his Corsica, Norway, Madeira and local government job at twenty- Peru. dǁŽƉƵďƐΘĂƐŚŽƉůĞƐƐ one years of age and has spent The stories are quite short ƚŚĂŶĂŵŝůĞĂǁĂLJ the last fifty years exploring the and in many ways each one Walking in the Alps Walks mountains of the world and could stand on its own as a >ƵdžƵƌLJĐĐŽŵŵŽĚĂƟŽŶͲīŽƌĚĂďůĞWƌŝĐĞͲtĂůŬĞƌ͛ƐWĂƌĂĚŝƐĞ and Climbs in the Pyrenees short magazine article. Indeed, producing guidebooks of Alpine Journal. excellent quality. Titles such as several have featured in ŚƩƉ͗ͬͬŶŝƌĞǀĂůůĞLJƌŝǀĞƌĐŽƩĂŐĞ͘ĐŽŵ and magazines and other are publications, including the highly regarded and have been revised and reprinted The book lends itself to being numerous times. Indeed, picked up and read for five

Every birdwatcher needs a representing more than 260 descriptive text below. good identification tool and species. To help with visual this latest guidebook certainly The book includes a identification, the various fits the bill. comprehensive ‘Getting started’ species groups in this guide are The guidebook differs from section, with guidance ranging arranged by visual similarity all those that have gone before from use of a notebook to and habitat preference rather it in that it is the first when, where and how to look than by the strict scientific photographic identification for birds. I particularly liked the order used by most other guide to the birds of Ireland. section dealing with plumage guidebooks. There are six to 15 images per and ‘bare parts’ terminology. The pocket size also makes THE BIRDS OF IRELAND: species, showing them in The clarity of the labelled the guidebook user-friendly A FIELD GUIDE various plumages and from photographs greatly facilitates from a hillwalker’s point of By Jim Wilson & Mark different angles to highlight the identification of the various view, as it can fit neatly into an Carmody important features, making it feathery bits, which so many inside pocket, ready to be easier to identify birds that you aspiring birdwatchers find so Deswhipped Doyle outMember as the of needthe Irish arises. are likely to encounter when daunting. MountaineeringBirdwatching Club has just got you are out birdwatching or Each bird is allocated a page easier! The Collins Press (2013), 236pp, simply looking at birds in your to itself with about three- numerous48 Irish colour Mountain photos, ISBN Log 978-1- Winter 2013 84889-179-1, €14.99 (£13.99) garden. In all, there are over quarters of the page consisting 1,600 photographs, of photos with a succinct Publisher’s offer Members of Mountaineering Ireland can avail of an happened on the mountain in offer from WW Norton & Company for a discount on those final days of triumph, as this book, Buried in the Sky, by Peter Zuckerman and numerous climbers summited Amanda Padoan. To order the book at the special on K2, and tragedy, as they members’ discount of 35%, go to the website link retreated in the disaster that www.wwnorton.co.uk/book.html?id=3471 and enter followed, is reported in the the code WN254 when prompted at the checkout ■ action-packed second half of the book. A possible confusion in the terminology is clarified early BURIED IN THE SKY: THE on. The term ‘Sherpa’ with a ExTRAORDINARY STORY OF capital letter is taken to refer to THE SHERPA CLIMBERS ON the ethnic group, while the K2’S DEADLIEST DAY lower case ‘sherpa’ is taken as a By Peter zuckerman & the survivors and the relatives condescending as it tries to generic term referring to high- Amanda Padoan of those who lost their lives, to explain mountaineering terms altitude porters and climbers. access as much information as and techniques, something that In this review I will follow this possible about what happened might have been better done in convention. in those days. They have also footnotes. WW Norton & Company (2013), The authors, Peter looked at the cultural Initially, at least, the focus 285pp, 51pp of notes, bibliography & Zuckerman and Amanda background of the various also often seemed to be more index, 9 maps, 16pp b/w photos, Padoan, who are cousins, sherpas involved in the tragedy ISBN: 978-0-393-34541-4, ppbk on the western climbers rather should certainly be to understand and explain their than the sherpas. However, in congratulated for what they actions. The account they have the end, the authors do seem to The subtitle says it all for me – have been able to establish produced certainly appears to be focusing on the often heroic this is certainly an about what happened in the be consistent with what is actions of the Sherpa climbers extraordinary story of what ‘death zone’ on K2 as this known. It also explains in a and do seem to have developed occurred on that tragic day in tragedy played out. We can all matter-of-fact way the heroism an understanding of why they August 2008 when eleven perhaps understand the displayed by many of the did what they did. They also mountaineers, including our difficulties they faced in sherpa players. Having known highlight again the bravery and own Ger McDonnell, lost their establishing, at some distance and worked with several ethnic altruism of Ger McDonnell, who lives on K2, the ‘Savage in time, the events of those final Sherpas over the years, I found clearly lost his life trying to Mountain.’ days, with people from many that I could certainly recognise save other climbers, when he The first half of the text of different countries spread over many of the traits described could have walked on by. This is the book is devoted to scene- this 8,000m peak in bad from my own experiences – the certainly a book that anyone setting and sometimes seems a weather; the resultant honesty, the pride in their who wants to better bit irrelevant to the main thrust difficulties in communication, culture and their profession, understand the events of those of the book, which is to record both technical and linguistic; the loyalty, the fatalism and so Patricktragic days O’Sullivan on theEditor, top of Irish K2 and the roles that the Sherpa and the fact that many of the on. Mountainin the Bottleneck Log from a Sherpa climbers played as the tragedy key players are sadly no longer As I have said, I found the perspective will want to read. unfolded. However, that is with us. earlier chapters a little quickly forgotten as what has The authors have established irrelevant to the main story. It been established about what theseBLACKSTAIRS, events by interviewing MOUNT LEINSTERalso comes across as a bit & THE BARROW VALLEY 1:25,000 scale

I am firmly of the view that maps will never be replaced by technology; they give a much East West Mapping (2013) larger picture and a whole lot of information ISBN 978-1-899815-32-6, €9.95 is instantly available to you. This map of the Blackstairs range and the Barrow River Valley is certainly a useful I am a great fan of East West Mapping, finding addition to any walker’s library. It shows two their information generally reliable, up-to- counties with a great variety of walking date and relevant to the interests of my routes. Just one small issue with this map: it is walking group. I have all of their maps for smallerDairine Nuttall and printedNordic onWalking both guide sides, and unlike instructor, the Wicklow and I regularly scan them looking for 1:30,000based in County East West Wicklow. maps I have been using. I loops, parking, refreshments, etc. I know that prefer the larger format sheet. Winter 2013 nowadays there is an app for all of these Irish Mountain Log 49 things, but that pre-supposes you know how to use one! Books ADAM LONG experienced boulderers to tempt and inspire. Some are complete novice climbers, and purely aesthetic shots of people to those who may climb in climbing at many of the top other disciplines (traditional, bouldering areas around the sport, etc) and are interested in world, but they are also put to trying their hand at this type of use when describing climbing, there is a wealth of movements and hold types. information to delve into. The While it is usually quite book also recognises both difficult to show a movement in indoor and outdoor bouldering, a sequence of photographs, the BOULDERING ESSENTIALS: acknowledging that there are author has done a good job THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO differences in style between the with most of his pictures in BOULDERING two but handling them in a giving a sense of what he is By David Flanagan very well-written manner. trying to describe with words. Covering a huge selection of The result would be sufficient topics, the book is thoughtfully to assist and guide aspiring spread out into well-organised boulderers before they take the Michele Carminati on Angel’s Three Rock Books (2013), 192pp, sections with just the right next step of using a coach. Share, Black Rocks, UK many colour photos, ISBN 978-0- amount of information to guide This guide is, perhaps, the 9567874-1-5, €25 (incl delivery) Bouldering Guidebook to the reader forward in their perfect supplement to the Bouldering in Ireland Ireland. learning. The book is most author’s earlier guide, the Following on from his definitive suitable for beginners and soon-to-be-reprinted bouldering guidebook to all of intermediate-experience, Neal McQuaid Avid climber and Ireland – aspiring boulderers, but there movement and strength, thus traveller, managerIt is highly at Awesome Walls, Dublin, formerly Talent is a range of ideas that could be complementing all other areas recommended. (Shortspan, 2011) – Dave Development Officer for Flanagan has followed up with the key to unlocking future of climbing, all climbers will Mountaineering Ireland. this friendly, accessible and areas of improvement to the find something useful in this well-informed ‘bouldering more experienced boulderer guide. essentials’ guidebook. also. Additionally, as bouldering Throughout the book, there Designed to cater to all, from is focused so much on are beautiful photographs to

equipment that they are massive muscle imbalances content, it reads horribly. Weird performed on (bouldering which, if left unaddressed, lead phrasing, lots of wall, pull-up bar, gymnastic to injury. So, any sensible mergingwordsfornoreason and rings, campus board, peg training programme must hyphens-every-where. board, sling-trainer, floor and dedicate some time to Here is an example from the mini-bars, and sloper-rails), strengthening these introduction: “When each exercise has a text antagonistic muscles. performing a strength-training GIMME KRAFT! EFFECTIVE description and a four-photo In this book, a lot of the CLIMBING TRAINING with the goal of a long-term sequence. The book also exercises are general exercises, improvement of performance By Patrick Matros, Ludwig comes with a DVD that shows not that climbing-specific, but (at least this is our philosophy) Korb & Hannes Kuch the exercises in action. very useful to build all-round, in a specific kind of sport, Spread through the book are balanced strength and to various basic principles need to brief quotes from some of the injury-proof the climber. be taken into consideration.” top climbers of the day. These The A5 landscape format Café Kraft GmbH (2013), 224pp, are a little vague and often not suits this book, which places While you nearly always colour illustrations, many photos, helpful. Do we really need to be photo sequences on one side of know what they are trying to includesGimme Kraft!DVD, ISBN 978-3-00- told “Power is one of the most say, it is frustrating! 042331-4, €29.90 plus postage the spread while the important aspects of climbing; accompanying text goes on the I wouldn't recommend this without power you are weak other. The layout is modern and book to someone looking for a is a bilingual and can't do certain moves...”? will appeal to younger, hipster general text about training for (German and English) book By naming the exercises and climbers. climbing as the scope is a little about training for climbing. As suggesting appropriate reps Bilingual books can be a little too narrow. However, in spite of the name will suggest to those and sets, Gimme Kraft! cumbersome to use and its problems, this is a good with a little German, it's all formalises what many climbers navigate, but in the most part Davidbook andFlanagan it willGuidebook be of huge writer, about power. have been doing for years. The this is handled well. The real memberinterest ofto Mountaineering the aspiring hard Ireland The book describes over book reflects the movement in problem with this book is the climber. 50seventyIrish different Mountain exercises Log training for climbing towards a translation from German to Winter 2013 designed to build strength and more balanced approach. The English. While it may power. Ordered by the physical act of climbing creates accurately reflect the German seven of Rebuffat’s original Providence on the Grand Pilier (77) hardly ever gets climbed. choices and thus retains a D’Angle (99) and the Gabarrou- Still, maybe we all need coherent sense of the grand Silvy on the Aiguille Sans Nom reminding that they – as well as tradition. However, this might (96) now represent the apogee routes like the Traverses of the be regarded by some as a of achievement. Aiguille Dorrees (36) and the negative, in that he is retreading Batoux also rehabilitates a Aiguille du Diable (58), which old ground. few old routes that Rebuffat did weren’t even fashionable thirty The book is very good at not include. In that respect, I years ago – are still classics, MONT BLANC: THE FINEST charting the changes in was glad to see the inclusion of despite modern trends. ROUTES climbing objectives and tactics, the East Face of The Grepon The photographs are of the By Philippe Batoux and in the seasons during (45). Of the new routes, he has expected high standard, but which particular routes can be chosen ice and mixed routes some of the text is a little done. Bold and sensible too is over rock in a rough proportion repetitive and uninspiring. For a Batoux’s decision to discard the of two to one, perhaps few of the routes, the Vertebrate Publishing (2013), 215pp, old French adjectival grading reflecting the former’s greater description is little more than many photos and sketches, ISBN 978- system. This has long been relative revolution. one would get from a good 1-906148-64-5, £35 (€42) rendered dysfunctional due to Batoux gets round the guidebook. The whole book, the application of high restrictiveness of the ‘100’ by excluding route descriptions, adjectival grades to safe rock including in some entries more Because of the vast number of can be read at a sitting. routes. He adopts the American than one choice. Thus two great new routes that have been etc, Philippe Batoux has system of an overall adjectival modern routes on the opened up in the Mont Blanc completed all of the routes Roman numeral grade of I to VI, Brouillard Pillars slip in as one Range since the late seventies, etc. described, so he is an infinitely and the additional factor of which indicates length, the time choice. The North Face of Les bigger dude than any Irishman climate change, Gaston required, seriousness, Droites is relegated from 99 to who would presume to review Rebuffat’s famous “Les 100 plus accompanied by ratings for 85, but under that choice we get his book! Nevertheless, I belles courses” has long been rock, ice, mixed, Whether five routes. wonder if the Traverse of the unrepresentative of what the use of this system will catch on, There may be an element of Pointe Lachenal (03) would best routes there are now, but only time will tell, but in a way hopeful advocacy in a few of his have excited me as a young also of what the most popular he is providing a founding selections. He states that the Alpinist? Would I have paid the document of its applicability. Traverse of Les Droites (52) routes with climbers are. Ianfare Rea up toMountaineer, the Midi? Also,alpinist where and Philippe Batoux’s book is an Overall, the selection of only gets climbed once or twice memberis the Gervasutti of Mountaineering Pillar on Ireland the attempt to correct this routes seems to be what one a season. Harry O’Brien recently Tacul? imbalance. Paradoxically, one of would expect, but the author is told me that the guardian of the this book’s plus points is that wise to say that it is not Monzino Hut had told him the Batoux incorporates thirty- definitive. Routes like Divine West Face of the Aiguille Noire

being sceptical with a title that company, the terrain, food, This newest Cicerone guide purports to appeal to bikers as currency and getting around. (the tally is now up to 330) must well as hikers. Is this a Each hike has a concise map, compete with a host of other guidebook for bikers that is sometimes several maps, one for books on Peru and the Inca trying to allure us as well? every stage. Janacek takes us Trail, such as Trailblazers’ The Whatever about its appeal to from pre-planning to arrival in Inca Trail, Cusco and Machu bikers, it certainly works for Peru, then all the way to the Picchu by Alexander Stewart hikers. Of the 40 treks, 17 are Sacred valley and off on its many and Footprint Handbooks’ Cusco dedicated walks, whereas only trails. With this guidebook, one and the Inca Trail by Box and four are too long to travel by could confidently plan an Frankham. However, in foot, with the other 19 possibly expedition to Peru. Janacek’s book, although the appealing to both activities. The trails look most HIKING AND BIKING PERU’S main sites are covered, the All of the treks are centred interesting traversing INCA TRAILS: TREKKING AND within the Sacred Valley of the spectacular landscapes and emphasis is on the exploration MOUNTAIN BIKING IN THE Incas, which is in the south of passing important of all of the Sacred Valley, a SACRED VALLEY Peru, with Machu Picchu at its archaeological sites. Janacek valley where more and more By William Janecek core. The treks vary from a half- feeds us with a good insight into Inca treasures are being day hike of 6km to several days the Inca history and the customs discovered every year. He takes over 100km. of the people of Peru. us to Choquequirao, for The author lives in Peru and His book is devoid of instance,Jim Ryan Authora site only and guidebooknow being Cicerone (2013), 284pp, many obviously has an in-depth information on geology and uncovered and every bit as coloured pictures and maps, ISBN writer knowledge of the country. He there is precious little on flora spectacular as Machu Picchu. 978-1-85284-631-2, £16.95 (€20) Winter 2013 provides us with practical and fauna, but some might say Irish Mountain Log 51 information on accommodation, that these are mere details to be Walkers could be forgiven for hiring a guide or a touring explored on the trail. by Helen Lawless Access & Conservation Officer βeta Helen Lawless has the beta on the latest developments in hillwalking, access and conservation Threats to the hills

or many of us, the quality of the DUNLOP TERRY environment we walk and climb in is an integral part of the enjoyment we get from our activities. Compared with Wales or Scotland, Ireland has a very limited stock of mountains and other wild lands. The character of what we have is being altered all the time, by our activities, by the activities of others and by development pressures. The resulting changes are sometimes small – the upgrading of a track, a new sign or an additional cairn on the hills – but the cumulative impact of many small changes can, over time, be significant. In a couple of weeks in October and November, Mountaineering Ireland learnedF of a number of developments, each of which represented a threat to the integrity of Ireland’s mountain New vehicle track in the Blue Stack Mountains. Some of this environmental damage environment. These included: proposals could have been prevented had this development been reported sooner. for a high-voltage electricity line through the southeast, in close proximity to the Comeragh and ; yellow arrows painted on rocks in the Cooley Mountains; a four-wheel-drive event that took place in the Situations like this arise from time to relatively intact blanket bog and heath Knockmealdowns; litter and spray-paint time, but this volume of threats in a short habitat at the site. However, the real issue left after an event on Slieve Gullion; a period brought the vulnerability of our is that work on that track had been suggestion that there should be signposts mountain environment into focus. The ongoing for approximately five weeks on Ireland’s mountain-tops; a planning Glinsk project also signals the possibility before it was reported to us. Had the application for a windfarm in the of large-scale industrialisation of work been reported sooner, some of that Wicklow Mountains; new fences in place Ireland’s wild landscapes to serve the damage could have been prevented. on the eastern part of the energy needs of the British market. As hillwalkers and climbers, we are MacGillycuddy’s Reeks; and the prospect Mountaineering Ireland members some of the few people who visit or even of a pumped hydroelectric energy storage contacted us about all these matters. We see the high and remote places where we development at Glinsk on the north Mayo have followed up on each one with pursue our pastime. Every one of us has a coast, which would be supported by at relevant authorities and in some cases in responsibility to not just take pleasure least 450 new wind turbines. conjunction with members in the area. A from the mountain environment, but to few of these issues will involve further act as custodians for these special action in the months and year ahead. landscapes. This extends beyond taking

HELEN LAWLESS Of the issues already visible on the ®careIf, to during minimise 2014, the you impact come of across our ground, perhaps the worst is a new anythingactivities. which It’s the degrades time to makethe mountain New vehicle track in a remote area of the Blue environment,Year’s resolutions. or changes the experience Stack Mountains, approximately 3km of walkers and climbers, please contact long and rising to a height of over 500m. the Mountaineering Ireland office or email This was brought to our attention in [email protected]. If you decide October by a walker and promptly to contact somebody at local level, let us reported to authorities in the area. know, as the involvement of a national Donegal County Council investigated the organisation will add weight to your Detail of the track cut in the Blue Stacks matter as an alleged unauthorised concerns ■ development and work stopped within a 52 Irish Mountain Log couple of days. The National Parks & Winter 2013 Wildlife Service provided input on the environmental damage caused to the Representatives to Coillte panels appointed

Mountaineering Ireland has succeeded in having representatives appointed to most of Coillte’s new Social and Environmental panels, formed following a recent change in internal forest management boundaries. The Social and Environmental panels provide a consultative forum where environmental, recreational and community organisations can provide information and discuss their interests in co- operation with Coillte management. The advice and Allan Mee showing participants in the recent Club Environmental Officers’ suggestions received from the panel are considered Workshop a map of Ring Ouzel nest sites in the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. and, where possible, incorporated into Coillte’s operational and management plans. Mountaineering Ireland sought volunteers to represent the interests of walkers and climbers on Club Environmental Officers’ these panels and we are very grateful to the many people who came forward. Nominees for the panels Workshop in Kenmare were initially approved by the Board of NorthMountaineering West (Donegal/north Ireland and Sligo/north we are pleased Leitrim): to report Mountaineering Ireland provides Mylesthat the Gallagher Mountaineering (Mevagh Ramblers) Ireland members below were support and some excellent Westsubsequently (Mayo/west accepted Galway/west by Coillte Sligo/north as panel Roscommon): members: training days for Club Sinead Gaughan (North West Mayo Hillwalkers) Environmental Officers South East (Dublin/Wicklow/Kildare/ Wexford/Carlow): Mick Monahan (Tullow Mountaineering Club) South Central (Kilkenny/Waterford/ Tipperary/south Laois/eastLimerick): Allan Mee, Project Manager for the Matt Joy (Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers) White-tailed Eagle re-introduction South Munster (Cork (excluding west Cork)/ project, led Mountaineering south Limerick/south Tipperary): Pat Lombard (Ballyhoura Bears) Ireland’s most recent Club West Munster (Kerry/west Limerick/west Cork): Environmental Officers’ Workshop Derry O’Regan (Skibbereen Walking Group) in Kenmare. The absence of eagles on the day was offset by a rich flow www.goldeneagle.ie. of information from Allan, who found in almost every county but actively encouraged people to report now the Reeks and Donegal appear sightings (with tag details) through to be the only two areas where this The best time The panels listed above have all held their first rare and elusive summer visitor still to spot the eagles is at dusk during ® The next Club Environmental meetings and, while the discussions were wide- breeds. Its decline is believed to be ranging, Mountaineering Ireland’s representatives the winter. Officers’ Workshop will take place in dueSligo to on habitat Saturday, loss March and predation. 8th, during have found the meetings to be positive and The group discussed other upland Mountaineering Ireland’s Spring ®informative.Please note You that can Coillte contact welcomes the representative reports of for bird species, particularly the Ring Gathering. For details, contact dumping,your area throughirresponsible the Mountaineering off-road vehicle Irelandactivity officeor Ouzel, sometimes referred to as the [email protected] ■ anti-social([email protected]). behaviour by email to [email protected] ■ mountain blackbird, which Allan has studied in the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks over the last five years. Leave No Trace: A century ago the Ring Ouzel was Park carefully

Most areas where we walk and climb have limited parking space. Park carefully, so as to avoid Bewasting Considerate space between ofcars Others or blocking gateways. Remember that farmers work at weekends and that farm machinery and the emergency services may need a wide space to turn into a Winter 2013 laneway or field. Car-pooling relieves pressure for parking space and savesIrish Mountain on fuel costs. Log 53 by Jane Carney Training Officer βeta Jane Carney has the beta on the latest developments in mountain training and skills

Winter Meet 2014 Inchree, Onich, Scotland, February 16th-22nd 2014

Winter Walking Skills

After the superb weather we had for the instruction and those who prefer to walk 2013 Winter Meet in Scotland, we are and climb independently. hoping for more of the same for our Our course is 2014 Meet. The meet will be based at the for hillwalkers who would like to learn Inchree Centre in Onich and geared fundamental snow skills and develop towards• 10% both discount those who on are courses looking tobookedtheir before experience December from summer 31st 2013 to winter improve their winter skills under walking conditions. • Group discounts on selected courses Youth Winter Meet for aspirant mountaineers Winter Mountaineering Skills • If you have already done some winter will run as part of the main Winter Meet walking and want to develop your skills further in more challenging terrain, the Winter Climbing Skillscourse is for you. Finally, if you would like to tackle routes requiring an ice-axe and hammer, look at our course. Previous rock-climbing and winter mountaineering experience is required for this course. Whether you are interested in one of our courses or simply want the opportunity of walking and climbing in the stunning Scottish mountains, please

ALUN RICHARDSON go to the events■ pages of the Mountaineering Ireland website www.mountaineering.ie or contact the Training Office on (01) 625 1115 for Snowsportsmore details Week 2014 Gastein Valley, Austria – with Topflight Equally, why not try something completely new and discover the snowshoe trails? Topflight. We arend very excited about our first touring and mountaineering. Snowsports Week, to be held from March 15-22 , 2014 in the Gastein Valley in The Austria with support from whole package includes flights, transfers The Gastein Valley area, in the Hohe and 4-star half-board accommodation in Tauen National Park, is an ideal base for the pretty village of Bad Hofgastein. a huge range of activities. Not only does This trip is ideal for groups and it boast one of the largest ski areas in individuals, skiers and non-skiers. See Austria (Ski Amande), but there is an the Events section of the Mountaineering impressive network of winter hiking Ireland website for full details and trails and snowshoeing trails there too. prices. Also, for those who couldn’t make This is the perfect opportunity to make the recent information■ evening on the the transition from pisted to off-piste Winter Meet and Snowsports Week, skiing with one of the local guides. This please visit the News section of the 54 Irish Mountain Log opens up the entire ski terrain to you website to see the recorded streamingWinter 2013 and will give you a great taste for ski from the night Awards updates Two new awards

Climbing Wall Award Lowland Leader Award

Mountaineering Ireland has successfully launched two new Awards in 2013: the (CWA) and the (LLA). The CWA got off to a good start, with the first courses being held in July. Over thirty candidates are currently registered on this award, with most of these already having completed training and now moving on to assessment. Providers of the Lowland Leader Award are trained and ready to deliver this award around the country. Course dates for the LLA are now up on our website. Candidates who have already completed the full Alpine Meet ML or WGL training are automatically exempt from the LLA training course and can register for Ailefroide, July 6th-20th 2014 Climbing Wall Leader Awardthe Lowland Leader Scheme and then present for assessment after meeting the relevant Changesrequirements. to the ML We aim to introduce the . (CWLA) in 2014 After one of our most successful Summer Alpine Meets in 2010, we are returning to Ailefroide in Écrins National Park, France, for the 2014 Summer Alpine Meet. The meet’s highlights will include a long- There have been two significant changes to the distance, hut-to-hut walk and instructional courses■ to help improve Mountain Leaders syllabus in 2013: your mountaineering and climbing skills. Ropes are no longer included in river As always, the Summer Alpine Meet is a great opportunity to come crossings. and explore the area independently but still enjoy the famous Now removed from the syllabus: the MountainMountaineering Ireland Training BBQ and all the fun! Conference • Thompson knot and the lowering of group ■ Congrats!members. (AssistanceMaurice O’Halloran, in the ascent Sandra or descent of a rock step remains and the group member th th Kennedy Cormac Lynch Tollymore, Co Down, November 28 -29 2013 • to be attached by a waist loop.) ■

to ■ All clubs,and please note who passed their Mountain Leader Assessment in October 2013

Mountaineering Ireland held the training in the mountains, the first Mountain Training Thursday afternoon debates were Please give details of Conference in Tollymore National lively and ultimately provided your Training Officer(s) when updating your club Outdoor Centre, Newcastle, Co everyone involved with plenty of profile. We will be using the online database Down, at the end of November. food for thought. increasingly to send relevant information to those The conference provided a There were several workshops coordinating or delivering training within clubs. If you unique opportunity to bring on Friday morning covering ■wouldTraining like this tips information to go to more than one together BOS providers from all topics such as ‘The Business of person in your club, just let us know by emailing over the country, mountain Mountain Training’ and details to [email protected]. training providers from Northern ‘Movement Skills.’ Ireland, local library boards, A big thank you to Tollymore for Since, the well-attended Club Outdoor Education Centre hosting a great conference and to■ Training Officers Meet in the Burren■ in November, a representatives and also those all who came – we hope you went collection of training tips and ideas have been involvedWinter 2013 in training in the club away knowing more than before compiled for use by clubs and Irishtheir Mountain members. Log This 55 environment. and looking forward to the next collection and other documents are available on the With so many perspectives on Mountain Training Conference! website, www.mountaineering.ie by Kieran Creevy βeta Kieran Creevy has the beta on gear for hillwalkers and climbers Winter camping Winter conditions in our cities are never enjoyable as roads clog up, €360 trams and buses get cancelled, and paths become skating rinks. It would be the height of folly to walk down a main street even in a pair of Grivel G12s! However, once temperatures drop and snow falls on high ground, those same crampons get sharpened, bulky belay jackets get stuffed into our rucksacks and we once again contemplate spending a night on the snow in the Reeks, Maumturks, Mournes.... Shelter ■ MSR Hubba HP Even during harsh winters like in recent years, it’s rare to find enough snow www.mountainsafetyresearch.com depth to dig a snow cave in Ireland. Therefore, if you're thinking of camping out 1.7kg, €360 on the hills, you’ll need to carry your own shelter. Here are two options, one a The Hubba model has, and has had, a few virtual bombproof fortress, the other a light and fast option with enough strength iterations (Hubba Hubba, Mutha Hubba, HP) to withstand winter camping, in a sheltered location, on the Irish hills. and it’s the HP version that would be of most interest for the Irish user who wants to go camp on the hills here in winter, or is looking for a lightweight solo tent that doesn’t feel claustrophobic.

€660 Pros ❚ Light yet strong. A total weight of under 2kg means you’ll have both the space and weight limit to pack more food into your overnight rucksack. This lightness also makes the Hubba HP a great choice for foreign trips. Security restrictions aside, you could pack this as a Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 ■ tent for a week and you’ll soon regret carry-on item. that decision. The apricot-and-grey www.mountainhardwear.com ❚ Easy to set up. Like the Trango above, the colour scheme of the Trango can make 4.1kg, €660 Hubba HP can be staked out prior to erection. even a drizzly Scottish winter morning The Trango has been one of the ‘go-to’ The one linked pole design enables this tent to look brighter – important if you’re going expedition tents for over a decade now, be set up by one person in less than five to get out of bed in time to climb the and with good reason. minutes. route you scoped the day before! ❚ Space, both storage and sleeping. Having one Strength. I’ve spent in excess of two Pros ❚ sizeable porch in a solo tent is a godsend; two hundred nights in this tent, including ❚ Thanks to the clip system used to is like having jam on both sides of your bread. some in full-on storm conditions, where secure the poles, the Trango can be set The second porch doesn’t have an external zip the walls of the tent were being pushed up in a howling gale without fear of it on the fly, but you can slide a pack underneath. onto my face. In all of this time, the blowing away, as you can peg down the This porch is accessible from the inner tent via Trango has yet to pop a stitch, leak or inner. This one feature has been a short zip. Both porches are easily big enough break. invaluable on numerous winter trips. to accommodate a 70-litre pack. ❚ Loads of space. It’s possible to sleep Cons three people in relative comfort in the Cons ❚ Weight; at 4.1kg (including Trango 2. Many times, two-person tents ❚ Not designed for heavy snowfall everything, measured on post office seem to be designed for two people with scales) it’s heavier than a few other no gear, or for two sleeping on their double-skin winter tents on the market. sides. ❚ Price; €660 is a lot of cash for a tent ❚ Plenty of storage inside the tent. On a by any measure, but when a cheap multi-day trip, organisation is important, tent breaks at 3,000m and it’s and with ten large internal pockets, this minus 20°C.... will not be a problem. ❚ Bright colour. This might not seem Ideal for ❚ Expeditions, alpine winter important, but try sleeping in a dark blue climbing, multi-day mountain trips

56 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 SKILLS & QUALIFICATION COURSES Rock Climbing Courses • Rock Skills Courses: RS1, RS2, Learn to Lead • Multi-Pitch and Sea Cliff Climbing

BOS-recognised Courses • Single-Pitch Award • Climbing Wall Award • Mountain Skills • Mountain Leader Training • Lowland Leader Award Kayaking Courses • ICU Kayak Skills Awards – Levels 1, 2, 3 • ICU River Rescue and Safety – Levels 1, 2 • White-Water and Coastal Kayaking

Outdoor Adventuring Offering Adventure Training in Ireland tailored to suit your group or We provide high quality adventure individual requirements skills and qualification training with friendly instruction from our experienced NGB qualified staff.

E [email protected] T 087 763 0400 W www.westclimbadventure.ie Follow us on Facebook

Funded by South West Mayo Development Company under the Rural Development Programme 2007-2013, National Development Plan 2007-2013

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 57 βeta Sleeping warm If you ever spend a night shivering in a thin sleeping bag while your tent-mate slumbers peacefully in a much warmer one, you will vow never to repeat the experience again. Even though it’s €160 nearly 20 years ago, I still remember the night-camp of my ML2, as the temp dropped to -8°C and I had only brought a light, 3-season bag. Moral of the story, pack a warmer bag than you think you’ll need; you can always vent heat, but that heat is almost impossible to gain.

■ Thermarest Altair Sleeping Bag ■ Neo Air All Season Mattress www.thermarest.com €420 (Altair -18°C Bag) €160 (Neo Air Mattress) Thermarest properly entered the sleeping bag market earlier this year, having had their link systems (mattress plus down/synthetic blanket) on shelves for a few years. The new bags are designed to Cons work with their mattresses, using two stretchy bands on the base ❚ Even though I was testing a pre-production of the sleeping bags. The main idea behind the link is to sample, I felt the Altair was missing a neck redistribute the down from the bottom of the bag (where it’s baffle – very important on a -18°C bag. This habitually compressed when we lie down) to the top and sides issue has been rectified on the production (70%, 30%, respectively). model. ❚ Temp rating. I didn’t think the Altair was warm enough for the -18°C tag. When I looked Head end Open zipped inside the bag, I noticed the EN comfort and shut limit ratings were -5°C and -11°C respectively, a much better reflection of performance. €420

Pros ❚ It works. Linked, the bag and mattress work beautifully. If you’ve ever slid off your mattress in the middle of the night and woken up lying face-down on a damp tent floor, then this will ensure that doesn’t happen again. ❚ Comfort. If you have yet to try a Neo Air mattress, then you’re missing out on a night of dreamless slumber. It’s the most comfortable mat by far I’ve ever used, and for the previous fifteen years I’d been using a standard Thermarest. Underside view The Altair has a great shape, enabling ❚ of mattress one to move inside the bag without linked to feeling like you’re having to heat up too sleeping bag much space. The bag/mat link also with two means you could prop yourself up on a stretchy bands rock (assuming you’re camping attached to base of bag somewhere sunny and dry!) while having a mattress under and behind you.

58 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 Winter mountaineering clothing During warmer weather, we layer according to the base, windproof and water-resistant soft-shell, heavy insulation, insulation, waterproof principle. Unfortunately, this method is lightweight waterproof in the bag style for drier continental inefficient and impractical in winter, and doubly so for winter climes. mountaineering. Here, then, is an idea of an Irish and Scottish system. I’ve Instead, you should look at adopting a base, light deliberately chosen synthetic insulation layers instead of down insulation/soft-shell, waterproof, heavy insulation style for due to our damp weather and the fact that snow here and in the Ireland, Scotland and other maritime climates, and a base, UK is significantly wetter than on the continent.

The North Face Thermoball Jacket Pros ■ ❚ Warm when wet. I wore the Thermoball over a www.thenorthface.ie light base layer while out on the hills in squally €190 €190 conditions (in the sake of honesty, I carried a spare mid-layer and shell as back-up) and though the In a recent review on a well-known jacket did eventually ‘wet-out,’ it still stayed warm. US gear website, the tester After the squalls had passed, it took about two thoroughly soaked the Thermoball hours to dry almost completely. Back at the car, I jacket in an icy stream, prior to tried wringing to see if any moisture was left in the donning it for a hike, to see if it shell, lining or insulation, and all I got was a few lived up to its claims. My test, in drips. Impressive. comparison, will sound a little wussy, but nevertheless, here goes. Cons ❚ None

Mountain Hardwear Seraction Jacket stretches while wearing it. The Seraction ■ improves on this significantly; hardly surprising www.mountainhardwear.com given that Tim Emmet is a world-class ice €460 climber and, at the élite level, you can’t be hampered by a ‘suit of armour’ waterproof. The Designed in conjunction with jacket is long enough to cover your kidneys – €460 athlete Tim Emmet, the Seraction important in winter. jacket is squarely aimed at the ice Breathability. The Dry Q Élite membrane used climber and winter mountaineer. ❚ in this jacket breathes from the moment you put it on. No more worrying about having to be hot Pros and sweaty before you start venting moisture. ❚ Flexibility and cut. The best I’ve ever encountered in a jacket. I’ve ❚ Enough pockets to do the job, not overly zippy. used a previous Mountain Hardwear ❚ Simple, effective, storm-proof hood. jacket (Ice Man) extensively over the past six years and thought it Cons was flexible enough to do yoga ❚ The price!

Patagonia Das Parka Pros ■ ❚ Very water-resistant shell fabric; dried off in minutes www.patagonia.com after a shower. €299 €299 ❚ Packs pretty small for a heavy synthetic belay parka. Well, if it’s good enough for Steve ❚ Inner pockets are big enough to hold 1-litre House to wear on numerous water-bottles, food, or for drying gloves. ascents, despite the fact that, as a ❚ Huge hood accommodates a helmet. brand ambassador, he has the pick ❚ Insulation stays warm when wet. There was no of Patagonia gear, including sign at all that the insulation had soaked up any high-end down belay parkas, it’s moisture when I was caught out in a rain shower. probably safe to say it’s good enough for winter use in Ireland, Cons Scotland and further afield. ❚ None

Winter 2013 Irish Mountain Log 59 βeta Water and food In winter conditions, your body requires more calories to stay will need to carry more food, and this in turn will require more warm. Now, if you’re spending the day lounging around in a water – to aid digestion, hydration and to cook with. You could well-insulated house, that becomes unnecessary; hence the carry the water with you or, if lucky, just melt the snow (avoiding, reason many of us put on weight during the winter. Camping, obviously, the dreaded ‘yellow snow’). hiking and climbing in winter, however, is a different story. You

■ MSR Reactor 1L Stove www.cascadedesigns.com €160 €160 175g (not including gas canister)

Finally, a Reactor stove designed for solo trips. The original stove was perfect for a team of two, at 1.6 litres in size, but a little bulky to pack.

Pros ❚ Fast. One litre of water boiled in 110 seconds (tested outdoors: 400m, +10°C, 30kph wind). ❚ Wide enough to be able to cook porridge without burning. ❚ Less weight. Redesign of the heat exchanger means the 1-litre model is almost half the weight of the 1.6-litre version.

Cons ❚ It’s about €50 more expensive than its closest competitor. X-ray view of closed stove Personally, I think it’s worth the extra cost. Stove ready to use

S Kerry Outdoor Sports opens Killarney store

Watched by almost 100 people, Joe Simpson, author of Touching the Void, cuts the rope to open Kerry Outdoor Sports’ new shop in Killarney on August 31st.

Pictured (left to right): Richard Morrison; Tim Long; owners of Kerry Outdoor Sports Sarah Seery, Eileen Daly and Aoife Smith; Mike O’Shea; Joe Simpson; Simon O’Shea.

Kerry Outdoor Sports may be the only female- owned outdoor shop in Europe.

60 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2013 ADVERTORIAL

“Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains. They Tour du Mont Blanc crowned him long ago on a throne of rocks, in a robe The iconic Tour du Mont Blanc walking trail is the most of clouds, with a diadem of snow.” – Lord Byron popular long-distance walk in Europe largest and most well-known The TMB is extremely well- town in the valley. There is a signposted, so doing the walk huge array of accommodation, self-guided with the help of outdoor shops and restaurants detailed maps is certainly here, so it is a good place to possible. However, a guided kit up before heading out, or trip allows you to complete the for relaxing in after a trip. Tour du Mont Blanc in one It is recommended that you week and in the company of book your accommodation on fellow-walkers, with an the route in advance yourself, experienced English-speaking or through a specialised mountain guide. company, whether you wish to Finally, but not for the faint- stay in Alpine refuges, in hearted, the ultimate shared dorms or in challenge is to summit Mont comfortable hotels. Refuges Blanc and stand on the roof of Les Grandes Jorasses are definitely a distinct western Europe at 4,810m experience and they are also (15,871ft). To climb Mont Everyone has heard of Mont chosen allows participants to the cheapest option. Using Blanc from Chamonix, One Blanc, and anyone with more carry as little as possible. than a passing interest in There is no need for a bivouac mountains will know of its tent, stove or pans, so you can stunning scenery. However, hike in comfort with just a Mont Blanc is more than just day-pack. The altitude on this the highest mountain in route ranges from 1,164m Europe west of the Caucasus. (Argentière) to 2,671m It is, in fact, a complete (Fenêtre d’Arpette). The paths mountain range. This explains are well-marked, in general, why its summit is the ultimate and should not cause any objective for mountaineers trouble for hikers with a from all over the world and reasonable level of fitness. why the Tour du Mont Blanc It is possible to do the route (TMB) is the most popular between June and September, long-distance walk in Europe. although in June there may Mt Blanc seen from Lac Blanc The iconic Tour du Mont still be snow on the high Blanc walking trail passes passes. Some of the refuges through three countries and camp sites may also not them, you stay high up in the Foot Abroad recommends the offering three diverse be open in June, although the mountains and share hearty route beginning from the experiences – the Italian route will be quieter at this meals with your fellow guests Aiguille du Midi and passing slopes with their large rock time of year. in the evenings. However, you over Mont Blanc du Tacul faces; the Swiss slopes with Chamonix is not actually on may prefer to stay in hotels, (4,248m) and Mont Maudit their soft valleys; and the the route, but most people end which are the highest possible (4,465m). French glacial slopes. up here at the beginning or standard of accommodation Following the Tour du Mont Depending on the precise end of their trip as it is the around Mont Blanc. Blanc reveals some of the route taken, there are ten or most exquisite mountain eleven passes to cross as the scenery and landscapes of all. tour progresses from one valley The first walking tour around to the next. Each of these Mont Blanc took place in passes enjoys unforgettable 1767, when Horace Benedict views, and each valley has its de Saussure and friends set own individual character. out from Chamonix. German The ‘official’ route of the philosopher Arthur TMB has changed over the Schopenhauer recounts an years and many alternatives or anecdote where “Saussure is ‘variantes’ now exist to the reported to have seen so large standard route. One Foot a moon, when it rose over Abroad is one of the Mont Blanc, that he did not companies that offers this recognise it and fainted with tour, and the route they have terror.” ■ Solo walker on Mt Blanc route THE LAST WORD

Photograph: Czech Mountaineering Federation Zdeněk Hrubý

Czech climbing legend dies in climbing accident most successful climb was his family man with two children 2008 ascent of Dhaulagiri and had a successful career in with Radek Jaroš, because government and as an they were ableCzech to save Club the Fair economist. He was elected Playlives of two other European PresidentPatrick O’Sullivan of the Czech Fairmountaineers. Play Movement For that Mountaineering Federation mountaineers in the Czech selfless act, they were twice.Zdeněk Hrubý: born 9 August, Republic in the last few awarded the 1956; died August, 2013 ■ decades. He climbed eight prize and the 8,000-metre peaks between prize. 1994 and 2012, his most Besides his passion for recent success being on mountaineering, Hrubý was a Nanga Parbat via the Kinshofer route last year. His successful 8,000-metre peak ascents were Cho Oyu in 1994; Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II (Hidden Peak) in 1997; Lhotse in 1999; Shisha Pangma in 2004; Broad Peak Zdeněk Hrubý, President of in 2007; Dhaulagiri in 2008; the Czech Mountaineering and Nanga Parbat in 2012. Federation, fell to his death in Hrubý’s last outstanding August 2013 while climb was a new route via the attempting a new route via northwest pillar on Talung the southwest face of (7,349m) in the Himalaya in Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) May 2013. He made this with his companion, Marek ascent with his friend and Zdeněk Hrubý with climbing companion Marek Holeček Holeček. frequent climbing companion 62ZdeněkIrish HrubýMountain loved Log the of recent years, Marek Winter 2013 high mountains and was one Holeček. of the most successful Hrubý always thought his Bad Hofgastein at night

• Return flights from Dublin, Cork, Belfast; transfers • 4-star, full-board accommodation • Free local beer, wine and soft drinks • Ideal location for snow-shoeing and winter hiking • 1-day ski guiding • Perfect opportunity to try ski touring for first time • 1-day ski touring guiding • Party night – welcome drinks & live music • Free entry to Wellness Oasis & Spa with pool

Ideal for groups or individuals, our Snowsports Week is for everyone who loves the mountains and snow! Whether you’re a beginner, a seasoned skier or even a non-skier, there are plenty of activities for everyone. Cost: €859 for Mountaineering Ireland Carving group with ski members, €889 for non-members. instructor in Gastein Valley

Call Yasmine (Topflight reservations team) on +353 1 240 1706 to book For more information visit www.mountaineering.ie or contact the office on (01) 625 1115

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