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27 November 2005 ARGENTINA 27th November 2005 – 1st January 2006 Raoul Beunen & Marije Louwsma www.avg‐w.com 1 Argentina Patagonia & Iguazú We visited Argentina the last week of November and the whole month of December in 2005. In total we spent 35 days in Argentina, mostly in Patagonia. We flew from Amsterdam to Buenos Aires (1 stop in Madrid) perfectly on schedule with Iberia. Argentina, and especially Patagonia has some of the most beautiful landscapes one can image. The legendary landscapes, like the endless pampas, the blue glaciers, the rock formations of the southern end of the Andes, and of course Tierra del Fuego were for us the reason to travel to Argentina. General information In general it was very easy and save to travel around whether by bus, car or plane. We only booked our hotel in Buenos Aires in advance. All the other accommodation and transport we arranged in Argentina itself. We used information from the lonely planet of Argentina (August 2005) and Chile (May 2003). Although the lonely planet of Argentina had a very recent update, we did not find it more useful than the prior edition. Especially the information about accommodation was very limited compared to prior editions. In high season when everything is fully booked this could be a problem. Because we travelled outside the high season, we only had some problems to reserve accommodation in El Chaltén, due to the limited options outside youth hostels. Prices for accommodation as for food were almost doubled in Patagonia compared to Iguazú, Buenos Aires and San Clemente. In Patagonia we slept mostly in doubles with shared bathroom to keep it affordable. Elsewhere we stayed in doubles with private bathroom. The weather The weather in Buenos Aires was very pleasant, although it could get very warm at midday. Patagonia can be very cold, but if the sun shines it is very comfortable. We had some cloudy and cold days but most of the time it was very nice. Only at Tierra del Fuego the weather was bad all the time. Due to strong winds many trips to the Beagle Channel were cancelled. Iquazú has a completely different climate. Here it was hot and humid all the time. The birds Visiting the magnificent, breathtaking, and astonishing landscapes of Patagonia was our main goal. Fortunately these landscapes also include many beautiful birds. We visited the following nature reserves: Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, Parque Faunística Península Valdés, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego and Parque Nacional Iguazú. During our trip we saw 265 species of birds, including specialities and beauties like Magellanic Diving‐Petrel, Flightless and Flying Steamerduck, Spectacled Duck, Rufous‐tailed Hawk, White‐ throated Caracara, Magellanic Plover, Magellanic Woodpecker, Dolphin Gull, Olrog’s Gull, Austral Parakeet, Spot‐billed Toucanet, Toco Toucan, Rufous‐tailed Plantcutter, Patagionian Sierra‐finch, and Pampas Meadowlark. References Lonely planet Argentina: sometimes very helpful, but the latest edition is not very informative as many hotels and restaurants are not mentioned in this book. Where to watch birds in Southern America: this book by Wheatley offers some useful information about where to watch birds, but it might become outdated. Birds of Argentina & Uruguay: A Field Guide: by Yzurieta & Narosky although the drawings look really awful it is the best you can get for Argentina. Birds of Chili: by Alvaro Jaramillo is an excellent book and very helpful in southern Patagonia. 2 Itinerary 27‐11 Arrival Buenos Aires 28‐11 Buenos Aires 29‐11 Buenos Aires 30‐11 BA – Puerto Madryn – Península Valdés 1‐12 Península Valdés 2‐12 Península Valdés 3‐12 Península Valdés – Rio Gallegos 4‐12 Rio Gallegos – El Calafate 5‐12 El Calafate 6‐12 El Calafate – Puerto Natales (Chile) 7‐12 Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine (Chile) 8‐12 Torres del Paine (Chile) 9‐12 Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales (Chile) 10‐12 Puerto Natales (Chile) – El Chaltén 11‐12 El Chaltén 12‐12 El Chaltén 13‐12 El Chaltén 14‐12 El Chaltén 15‐12 El Chaltén – El Calafate – Ushuaia 16‐12 Ushuaia 17‐12 Ushuaia 18‐12 Ushuaia 19‐12 Ushuaia – Buenos Aires 20‐12 Buenos Aires – Iguazú 21‐12 Iguazú 22‐12 Iguazú 23‐12 Iguazú – Buenos Aires 24‐12 Buenos Aires – San Clemente 25‐12 San Clemente 26‐12 San Clemente 27‐12 San Clemente 28‐12 San Clemente – Buenos Aires 29‐12 Buenos Aires – Colonia (Uruguay) 30‐12 Buenos Aires 31‐12 Fligth back from Buenos Aires 1‐1 Arrival Amsterdam Airport 3 Places visited in Argentina Buenos Aires We stayed in hotel Marbella along the Avenida de Mayo in the city centre. In the afternoon, after arrival in BA, we walked to Costanera del Sur. Halfway we passed the microcenter (the main shopping street area) and a little further Puerto Madero, the renovated and now very popular harbor area. On the way back we walked via the well‐known Plaza de Mayo. The next day (Monday 28th) we wanted to book some domestic flights. Due to a strike of the national carrier Aerolinas Argentinas it was impossible to get some flights with AA or LADE to the south in a short time. Also seats from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires were limited, eventhough it was three weeks ahead. After a long waiting time in the office (probably due to the same strike) we booked in the end three domestic flights; Calafate – Ushuaia, Ushuaia – Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires – Iguazú. All the other transfers we did by (night)bus. In general we booked these bus tickets one to three days ahead. On Monday Costanera del Sur is closed, so we did some sightseeing & shopping in the city centre. Tuesday morning (29th) we went again to Costanera del Sur. In the afternoon we visited the neighbourhoods of La Boca, Recoleta and Plaza de Congreso. La Boca is well‐known for its colourful houses, artwork and tango on the street. It is a touristy three street area and can be visited in a short time. From La Boca we took a taxi to the nearest metro station to get to Recoleta. Here we visited La Cementerio where the grave of Evita Perron is situated. Peninsula Valdéz Peninsula Valdéz is famous for its marine wildlife. There are large colonies of Sea Lions, Magellanic Pinguins, every year the Southern Right Whales come here to raise their young and the world famous videos of beach landing Orca’s have been filmed here. We took the night bus from Buenos Aires to Puerto Madryn. Here we rented a car and drove to Puerto Pyrámides. Puerto Pyrámides is a small village with plenty of accommodation. From here it is possible to make whale‐watching trips and tours over the peninsula. We had many different problems during our stay at Penisula Valdéz, the gas tank of our car was leaking, due to strong winds it was not possible to go on a whale‐watching trip, and we could not use the car for a while because the gasoline in Puerto Madryn was sold out. Nevertheless it was worth going there. There peninsula and its wildlife are extremely beautiful. Birds that we saw here include lots of Lesser Rheas, many Elegant‐crested Tinamous, some Snowy Sheatbills, Blackish Oystercatcher, Dolphin Gulls, Royal Terns, Southern Giant Petrels, Great Grebe, Aplomado Falcon, Scale‐throated Earthcreeper, and Lesser‐Shrike‐tyrant. Due to the strong winds it was almost impossible to find little birds in the scrub. 4 El Calafate The journey from Puerto Madryn to El Calafante is a long one. We left at 15.00 h. and arrived at 17.00 h. the next day. The bus ride took us through some very beautiful pampas landscapes. Especially the sunset and the sunrise were extremely beautiful. El Calafate is a small town from where tours to the Perito Mereno and other tourist destinations can be made. On the edge of the town lies a small reserve ... Here you can find many bird species that are so typical for southern Patagonia. I went there in the late afternoon and spend some time looking for waders on the shores of lake .. After a while I got lucky and had amazing views of one of the world’s most beautiful waders, the Magellanic Plover. Other birds that were seen here are Lake Duck, Black‐ faced Ibis, Upland Goose, Chiloen Wigeon, Cinereous Harrier, Andean Swift, Austral Negrito, and Austral Cowbird. Perito Moreno The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the tourist hotspots of southern Patagonia. Following some staircases it is possible to get really close to the glacier. From here you can feel the cold winds that are blown from the glacier. If you are lucky you can see the spectacle of parts that break off the glacier. The surroundings around the glacier are really nice as well, with some interesting forest. I saw my first Magellanic Woodpecker here! This magnificent bird is one of the highlights of a visit to this part of the world. Other birds that we saw were Magellanic Oystercatcher, Chilean Swallow, Austral Trush, Black‐chested Buzzared Eagle, Dark‐faced Ground‐tyrant, Fire‐eyed Diucon, Thorn‐ tailed Rayadito, and Austral Parakeet. 5 Torres del Paine (Chile) We spend several days hiking in Torres del Paine. Busses to the park leave from Puerto Natales. From the bus we spotted a beautiful Ashy‐headed Goose. Once in the park the Andean Condor proved to be very common. The park offers amazing sceneries, which include beautiful rock formations and azure blue lakes. During the hikes we encountered several birds like Andean Condor, White‐browed Ground‐tyrant, Dark‐faced Ground‐tyrant, Corendera Pipit, Peregrine Falcon, Dark‐bellied Cinclodes, Rufous‐tailed Plantcutter, Patagonian and Grey‐hooded Sierra‐finch, Black‐faced Siskin, Long‐tailed Meadowlark, Tufted Tit‐tyrant, Flying Steamer‐Duck, Spectacled Teal and White‐tufted Grebe.
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