opening times Huntingdonshire Branch of CAMRA Issue 135 the Summer 2008

WILD FOR MILD Also inside: Good Beer in Prague of the Year Microbrewery Takeovers George, Buckden A look back in time LocAle Pub Pieces Half Pints Booze on the Ouse, St Ives Beer Festival, Thu 11—Sat 13 Sep 2008 2 Support your local pub - don't give them an excuse to close it! WILD FOR MILD The month of May has become linked with CAMRA promotional kit. real draught through CAMRA’s Greene King annual May Mild Month campaign. Many Company MD Justin Ad- brewers give a push to their regular milds ams said ‘XX Mild is an and others produce seasonal milds in important part of our di- May. verse portfolio of quality Mild can be dark, light or strong. Brewed ales and we’re working with a lower hop rate, it is rounder and hard to ensure ale-lovers slightly sweeter than bitters. But it is can still experience the strong on flavour and brewers are increas- unique taste of mild in ingly bringing out the best in the style. across the country.’ Roast malt, caramel, roast barley or ex- XX is a distinctive dark tracts from roasted grain are used to mild with liquorice and roast flavours from darken most milds and a variety of fla- the use of black malt in a blend with crys- vours can result - notably, liquorice, roast tal malt and a delicate hop aroma from or caramel, but light hop or malt flavours Northdown hops. and aroma can also be expected. One local Greene King pub that stocks XX Locally, Elgoods produce Mild is the Waggon and Horses in Steeple Black Dog mild with its Morden. Opening Times would like to hear liquorice character and from readers who discover XX in other distinctive bite. Cambridge Greene King pubs following Mild May, or Moonshine brews Harvest indeed any mild in any local pub. Details Moon Mild. Milton Mino- will be published in future issues. taur is an impressive reddish-brown mild Elgoods Black Dog is a regular line at the with roast and liquorice layers and a - Cock at Hemingford Grey and is expected sweet balance. A stronger mild with an this May at the Floods Tavern in St Ives. appealing chocolate malt flavour and a In St Neots, the Lord John Russell offers great name is Smokestack Lightning from Batemans’ nutty, fruity Dark Mild and a Fenland brewery in the Isle of Ely. real cask mild is also stocked at the Hyde Look out also for milds from just over the Park. Huntingdon’s Market Inn is another county border, including Pargetters dark good mild outlet, with Potbelly’s 4.2% Bei- mild from Buntingford brewery near Roys- jing Black from Kettering a regular offer- ton, and Beijing Black from Potbelly. ing. But praise is also due to Greene King who Huntingdonshire CAMRA is celebrating have written to 2,000 of its licensees urg- Mild May Month on Friday 30th May from ing them to support CAMRA’s Mild Month 830pm with simultaneous gatherings in campaign by stocking Greene King XX the Lord John Russell and Mild, CAMRA’s Champion Mild of East Hyde Park in St Neots, Anglia 2007. There will be targeted mar- The Market Inn at Hun- keting in May and licensees who order XX tingdon and the Cock, will receive a joint Greene King and Hemingford Grey.

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008

THE CHEQUERS THE SWAN 71 Main Road, Little Gransden Main Street, Old Weston Tel: 01767 677348 Tel: 01832 293400 REAL ALES and REAL FOOD HUNTS CAMRA Pub of

the Year 2008 Southwold Bitter Bob and Wendy Mitchell Adnams Broadside invite you to try their unique Greene King Abbot + Guests unspoilt village local with its Hunts CAMRA Pub of the Year 2004 own special atmosphere Fish & Chips Wednesday Evening Restaurant open Friday & Saturday Different Real Ale each week evenings & Sunday lunchtimes

THE OLIVER CROMWELL Wellington Street, St. Ives, Cambs. Tel: 01480 465601 Serving six real ales: Adnams Bitter plus regularly changing guest beers No smoking bar

Enjoy a good pint of traditional ale in traditional surroundings. Reasonably priced lunchtime bar snacks available Mon to Sat

Huntingdonshire CAMRA Pub of the Year 2006

4 Support your local pub - don't give them an excuse to close it! PUB OF THE YEAR Chequers, Little Gransden family run pub, from Bob and Wendy and the village regulars. The Chequers truly is a community pub, and the heart and soul of this Cambridgeshire village. Many of the regulars are country people who work in agriculture. Bob opened a brewery at the Chequers in November 2007, the first operating brewery within the branch area since James Paine closed in the 1990’s. Since then a steady stream of distinctive The Huntingdonshire Branch of CAMRA beers of a wide variety of styles have ap- has this year selected the Chequers, Little peared, as the collection of pump clips Gransden to be awarded Pub of the Year below attests. Bob freely admits that he is 2008. This is the fourth year in a row that still experimenting, and he has yet to ar- the Chequers has won the award. rive at a series of regular brews, all beers brewed to date being “one offs” CAMRA gives this annual award to the pub that it judges to provide the widest The Chequers is also very much a family appeal for its combination of good beer, business. As well as Bob and Wendy, atmosphere, style, service and value. their son’s Andy and David are involved in running the pub. Bob hopes that he will Bob and Wendy Mitchell have owned and one day pass this pub onto the next run the Chequers, Little Gransden for 13 generation. years and the pub has been in the Mitchell family since 1950. There was a presentation of a framed certificate to licensees Wendy and Bob Bob has a passion for real ale. As well as Mitchell on the occasion of the the pubs St the house beer Oakham JHB, at least one Georges Day celebrations. Pictured are unusual guest beer is always available (on Bob, Wendy and Branch representative special occasions as many as 6 real ales Roy Endersby. are available). Bob also has a passion for good food. Friday night is fish night at the Chequers, and on a recent visit, Bob had organised a home made pate competition which he, numerous pub regulars and CAMRA visitors took part in The cosy public bar with its plain wooden seating and open fire is an unaltered gem and there is a choice of two other rooms. There is always a warm welcome at this OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 A LOOK BACK IN TIME 25 YEARS AGO from June 3-5 1983. That summer the James Paine brewery of St Neots branch met at the White Hart at Alconbury announced a doubling of beer production Weston and there were socials at the to 100 barrels a week in the year since Oliver Cromwell in St Ives and the Prince March 1982, during which time the of Wales, Hilton. company had been given a boost by its Ipswich brewers purchase from Paine and Company by Tolly Cobbold faced four successful members of the travel an uncertain future business. James Paine was also boosting as their owner production by entering into trading Ellerman Lines was agreements with Charrington, part of the put up for sale, following the decision of Bass brewing group, and Blackburn charitable trusts to look for a better return brewer Matthew Brown. XXX Bitter was on their investment, worth 80% of the the biggest selling James Paine beer, Ellerman group. Ellerman had bought making up 60% of total production, with Tolly Cobbold six years earlier. Camerons EG at 15%. Four of the 20 Paines pubs Hartlepool brewery, which the group had had recently been sold, three with a bought in 1975, was also part of the licence, but one, the Royal Oak in St proposed sale. Neots, to a property company for redevelopment. CAMRA’s group of eight pubs was renamed Midsummer Inns and there were Three more cask milds were lost as plans to concentrate on owning pubs brewers found mild brewing to be within 60 miles of its Cambridge uneconomic in the face of a slump in headquarters, and to increase its stock of demand. Following the loss of Elgoods pubs to 25. mild earlier in the year, Greene King in Biggleswade discontinued their dark mild CAMRA’s Norwich Branch reported a XX. Other losses were Youngs Malt Ale renewed East Anglia pubs purge by and national brewers Whitbread and national brewers Watney. Following an Watney announced losses of Wethereds earlier campaign of pub closures in the and Manns Milds respectively, the latter 1970’s after Watney had taken over the only two years after its introduction. estates of three Norwich breweries, Meanwhile, another branch of the Watney CAMRA had catalogued over 40 closures group, Websters Yorkshire brewery, in 1982 and 1983. launched a new mild, Websters Dark Mild, Hereward Brewery was launched at in both cask and keg forms. Market Deeping in May 1983. The first CAMRA’s pint was drawn by Cambridge resident St Neots Tony Millns, chairman of CAMRA and was branch held drunk by the mayor of Peterborough, who its ‘Booze was so impressed with the cask Hereward by the Bitter that he ordered a firkin for the Ouse’ beer mayor’s parlour at Peterborough Town festival in Hall. St Neots White Hart at Alconbury Weston 6 Support your local pub - don't give them an excuse to close it! A LOOK BACK IN TIME 10 YEARS AGO took Draught Bass as Potton brewery was set Britain’s biggest sell- up in the Bedfordshire ing cask beer, follow- town by Bob Hearson ing a radio and poster and Clive Towner after advertising campaign they were made redun- with the slogan dant on the closure of ‘Barrels are meant for brewing’, a refer- Greene King’s Biggleswade brewery. Pot- ence to the use of the traditional Burton ton was home to the original Potton Brew- Union method of fermentation in large ery which closed in 1921. wooden casks (still used by Marstons in 2008), retained by Marstons but phased backed CAMRA’s May out by its then Burton neighbour Bass. Mild promotion in 1998 by serving a choice of cut price cask milds in all of its Former Bedfordshire CAMRA stalwarts 200 plus outlets. John and Christine Cryne were given an emotional send off at CAMRA’s 1998 an- More good news for real mild was pro- nual conference in Edinburgh after they vided by Lancaster brewer Mitchells’ rein- both stood down from the campaign’s troduction of its cask Dark Mild, after hav- National Executive after 14 and 9 years ing discontinued production the previous respectively. Later that summer John was year. named Beer Drinker of the Year by the In summer 1998 St Neots CAMRA branch Parliamentary Beer Club, a group of MPs held meetings at the White Hart in St Ives who enjoy their ale. and the Prince of Oxford brewer Morrells Wales, Hilton and appeared to face clo- there was a curry sure after the sudden night in Eaton So- departure of chief ex- con. There were ecutive Charles Eld and trips to pubs in his replacement by Ken Gamlingay and Hodgson, who de- Little Gransden in June and Keyston and clared’ Only a fool would give a commit- Leighton Bromswold in July. ment to stay in brewing’. CAMRA launched its ‘Pub Viability Test’ to CAMRA was outraged as Suffolk brewer help government and local council officials Greene King used a loophole in new gov- assess the viability of pubs threatened ernment legislation to de-licence the his- with closure by owners claiming that pubs toric George and Dragon in Baldock. The are no longer viable when applying to beer orders had banned the sale of pubs change use to private houses. The test with restrictive covenants preventing them was aimed at helping campaigners and from continuing as pubs. But Greene King providing protection for pubs. The test was offering the George and Dragon on a uses a tick list of objective criteria such as 99 year lease, after their lawyers found location and condition of buildings. that the new rule did not apply to lease- In summer 1998, Marstons Pedigree over- hold transfers.

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 PUB PIECES Wetherspoons are set to open in St planning permission. The Grange was Neots, following the granting of a licence built as a residence but over the years has by Huntingdonshire District Council for its also provided accommodation for a girl’s new pub on the site of the old post office school and military headquarters. It was in New Street. Planning permission for converted to a hotel in 1980 and became this change of use was granted last very popular a few years ago for its December. Work should start on the gourmet food and local real ales under the conversion this September, to include the proprietorship of Nick Steiger, previously addition of a new single storey extension of the Old Bridge Hotel in Huntingdon. at the rear of the existing building, and the More recently it became a guest house, new pub is expected to open in February but its viability has been compromised by 2009. The new licence will allow opening the need for significant building repairs. until 0030 Sundays to Thursdays and Developers discussed various options 0130 on Fridays and Saturdays. Pub- with council planning officers, including goers in St Neots can expect cheap food demolition or refurbishment as an and drink, including real ales of high improved hotel, although this was not quality at competitive prices. There are considered to be commercially viable. fears, though of the threat that Conroy Construction Ltd propose retaining Wetherspoons outlets can pose to existing the original Georgian building and pubs. The centre of St Neots has only a replacing existing additions with new dozen or so pubs to share any hits in single and two storey extensions and trade – and three have already closed providing 9 flats on the ground floor, four since the year 2000. on the first floor and one in the second floor roof space. At Kneesworth, the Red Lion, a picturesque old roadside inn near Greene King pub Bassingbourn, has closed and is reported the Bell in Great to have been sold to a chain of Indian Paxton has a restaurants. Planning permission will not new licensee, be needed for change of use from a pub Mike Johnson, to a restaurant. Bassingbourn will be left who took over with two pubs - the Hoops, a Greene King last December pub, and free house the Pear Tree, after with his partner Jenny and chef James the closure of the Antelope a decade or so Goodland. ago. Also last In Brampton the Harrier is expected to December, Dai revert to an Indian restaurant following the Heafield took impending sale of the lease. Previously it over the George was changed to an Indian restaurant at Fenstanton, followed by a period of dual use as both and has been an Indian restaurant and a pub. busy refitting the kitchen to be Also in Brampton, the Grange is to be able to offer redeveloped as 14 flats, subject to traditional pub fare. Dai also hoped to add

8 Contact the editor: [email protected], (01480) 355893 PUB PIECES more real ales, possibly from Wales or and was manageress under the last long- local producers. serving tenants, Roger and Tina Collins. New licensees at Roger and Tina left at the end of 2005 the Seven Wives after 10 successful years because they in St Ives, Tony said Greene King was demanding ridicu- and Lynn Herrick lous rent increases. Roger maintained that have brought a firm he and Tina were paying themselves less emphasis on when they left the pub than they did when entertainment and they first leased it, despite having in- food, with themed food nights, live bands creased its barrelage five-fold. and karaoke competitions. Real ales have Since then two tenants have tried to make included the products of the Hobgoblin a go of it – but owing in part to the high brewery, recently taken over by Marstons. rent, neither of them lasted a year. At Houghton, The pub has also had several temporary village local managers and trade has suffered drasti- the Three cally as a result, but fans are confident Horseshoes that Nessie can revive its flagging for- is establishing tunes. She claims to have negotiated a a reputation much more realistic rent out of Greene for its restaurant menu, offered at pub King and promises to reintroduce the spe- prices alongside a good selection of real cial events that were so popular in the ales, and themed food events that have Collinses' day. included a Spanish night recently. She's also a personal friend of most of the In Peterborough, Batemans pub the regulars, who had urged her to apply for Palmerston Arms closed for a major the tenancy and are deeply relieved that refurbishment in February and reopened she got it. on 1 March with a member of the Bateman family in attendance. New tenant for Cock, Gamlingay. Pubgoers in Gam- lingay are facing the future with much more confi- dence now there's a new tenant at the 16th-century Cock in Church Street. For though Nessie Roberts is the Greene King pub's third tenant in as many years, she's a familiar face behind the bar. For she has worked at the Cock for nine years

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 MORE MICROBREWERY TAKEOVERS Two more major real ale microbrewers Hampshire last and the Deuchars IPA, Hobgoblin and year. Marstons Brakspear brands have been swallowed appear to be up by bigger brewers. Scottish & Newcas- committed to tle have bought out the remaining 70 per the continued cent of the shareholding in Caledonian operation of Brewery of Edinburgh and Marstons have these brewer- taken over Refresh UK, owners of ies as they Wychwood Brewery in Witney, Oxford- develop a large portfolio of locally brewed shire, brewers of the Hobgoblin and real ales to back up the national Marstons Brakspears brands. Pedigree brand. Caledonian Refresh is also the largest British pro- will soon be ducer of organic ales, including the Duchy run by Dutch Original real ales in bottle. brewers Hei- And Marstons plan to keep Refresh’s deal neken. S&N to import Inbev brand Löwenbräu and are them- investigate bringing in more strong Inbev selves the brands from other parts of the world. subject of a current take- over by a con- sortium of Hei- neken and Carlsberg and will be operated the as part of Heineken. Saddle In 2004 S&N bought the Caledonian brew- ing site and a 30% share of the brewing business. In the latest deal they have bought the remaining 70% of shares. The former Caledonian directors will retain ownership of Harviestoun brewery in Clackmannanshire, taken over by Caledo- nian in 2006, which means continued in- dependence for the popular brewers of Sunday Lunch 12:00 - 2:30 real ales like Bitter & Twisted and Schie- hallion. 2 course meal £9.95 3 course meal £12.95 Marstons’ latest acquisition follows their purchase of Please book in advance Cumbria brewer tel: 01480 860408 Jennings in 2005 and the Ringwood The Saddle, 26 High St, Kimbolton microbrewer in www.arneillleisure.com

10 Support your local pub - don't give them an excuse to close it! HALF PINTS The former Bass Brew- dating back to 1717, and the brewing pro- ery Museum in Burton ject is part of the redevelopment of the on Trent could be Old Royal Naval College visitor centre. saved as a result of a The brewery will form the centrepiece of a campaign against the new Meantime outlet and include an exhi- closure plans of own- bition of brewing history in the area. The ers Coors. The cam- products of the new brewery will include a paign is being led by London Porter as originally brewed at the local MP Janet Dean site. and has the support of CAMRA and beer Dark Star brewery writer Roger Protz who said ‘The museum won awards at two is the only national centre to celebrate CAMRA beer festi- British beer’ Coors have now offered the vals in March for its museum at a peppercorn rent and will American Pale Ale. offer matched funding of up to £200000 to The beer was voted any organisation taking on the site. best beer at the Punch Taverns has said that its Spirit es- Sussex Branches tate of managed pubs is not for sale, fol- Beer and Cider Festival in Hove and then lowing a bid by pub group Mitchells and the following weekend at the London Butlers. This follows Punch’s withdrawal Drinker Festival at the Camden Centre. of its earlier merger proposal for M&B. Dark Star started brewing in Brighton and moved operations to its current site near Greene King has an- Haywards Heath, Sussex in 2001. nounced its seasonal cask ale range for 2008. The ‘Stuff the Supermarkets’ campaign, Morlands Tanners Jack run by the ‘Head of Steam’ pub chain is (4.4% alcohol by vol- preparing a new stage of its attempt to ume) will be available in encourage alternatives to cheap booze May. Look out for the from supermarkets. From May, Head of pale, zesty Ale Fresco Steam will offer a ‘Stuff the Chancellor’ (4.3%) in May and June discount offer on bulk beer for home con- and Sundance (4.1% abv) from July to sumption in response to last month’s August. Bonkers Conkers (4.1% abv) and budget. Take home beer will be offered at Ridley’s Witchfinder (4.3%) will be avail- prices such as 99p a pint for quantities of able during September. Abbot Reserve 36, 72 or 144 pints. Head of Steam boss (6.5% abv) and Hardys and Hansons Tony Brookes claims that this discounting Rocking Rudolph (4.5% abv) will be the is not selling below cost and is a clear winter offerings, with Abstinence Ale difference from the approach of many (3.6% abv) after the New Year celebra- supermarkets. ‘Several pub companies tions. are now actively planning to implement our scheme’, he said, ‘Some are calling it Meantime Brewing Company is to revive a different name, but that’s all right – it’s brewing at the Old Royal Naval College in the outcome that counts.’ Greenwich, which has a history of brewing

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 12 Join 80,000 members of CAMRA and fight for Britain’s beer heritage Theat Hemingford Cock Grey Four Real Ales from breweries such as Buntingford, Digfield, Earl Soham, Elgoods, Fenland, Milton, Nethergate, Pot Belly, Tydd Steam and Wolf Annual Beer Festival August Bank Holiday weekend 25 Beers: 3 bands: BBQ Friday evening, all weekend and Monday lunchtime In a continued effort to source all of our produce locally we have adopted a policy of only using breweries for our real ale within a one hour drive. Hunts CAMRA Pub of the Year 2003 Cambridgeshire Dining Pub of the Year 2006 & 2007 The Mad Cat 2 real ales from local breweries, constantly changing Food available daily. Traditional home cooked pub food. Mon-Sat 12-2.30; 6-9, Sunday carvery 12-4.

Sat 7th June, 2-5pm, New Orleans jazz Band, £10 per ticket incl lunch, in aid of Pidley Mountain Rescue Fri 18th—Sun 20th July, Beer Festival, 11 different real ales, from Adnams, Elgoods, Oakham & Woodforde

High Street, Pidley, PE28 3BX Telephone: 01487 842245, www.madcatinn.co.uk OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 13 14 Updates to beer festival details - www.huntscamra.org.uk/festivals GEORGE, BUCKDEN They’re a problem, aren't they, old coach- the George's fortunes gradually faded, ing inns? Huge great piles of mouldering and half of it was even sold off piecemeal masonry, full of rot both wet and dry, and as shops, the post office, and a cottage. normally in completely the wrong locations Then, three years ago, the two halves for modern needs – let's face it, who were reunited when the Furbank family needs 'em? came to the rescue. Yes, it's a sad fact that the grand inns that Anne and Richard Furbank started a very used to be one of England's glories have swish dress shop in part of the sold-off had a thin time of late. No amount of his- half 27 years ago; and as their business tory has been able to guarantee their grew they bought up the rest of it. Then in safety, and some of the most historic of 2003 the George itself was put up for sale them have been drastically and unsympa- by Greene King as part of the fall-out from thetically altered, demoted to local beer- its acquisition of Old English Inns. And, houses, or effectively left to rot. says the Furbanks' daughter in-law Becky, the sale came as no surprise. Astonishingly to anyone with a sense of history, both the New Inn at Gloucester “You should and the Angel & Royal at Grantham, two have seen the of Britain's most venerable late medieval state of the inns, have had to be rescued at huge cost place,” she after years of neglect. Of lesser-known says. “The coaching inns, too many to mention have bedrooms gone under altogether, victims of redun- were damp dant locations and facilities that may have and peeling suited the 18th-century traveller but and were let proved too hard to adapt to modern out at B&B needs. rates, mostly to visiting fish- One that has survived – just – is at Buck- ermen. There den near Huntingdon where the George, a was no dining vast brick-built barracks of a place, fronted trade at all, the Great North Road from the early 18th and the bar century until the 1970s, when the village was all dark paint and velvet upholstery was bypassed by the A1. Over the years with a horrible patterned carpet – and no customers to speak of.” But the Furbanks knew the old inn had potential. Buckden is an affluent village; and having enjoyed the custom of the wealthier women of the district for many years, the Furbanks not only knew the market, they knew most of the market by name. The shop also attracts custom from much further afield, and Buckden – al-

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 A traditional old country pub and restaurant with a warm and friendly atmosphere. Traditional Sunday Lunch. Children’s menu available. Open all day Saturday and Sunday. 4 real cask ales served including Adnams Bitter, Fullers London Pride plus 2 guest ales. Bar Meals are available every day. A la carte menu is served in our restaurant Monday to Saturday. The menu caters for all tastes including vegetarian and any special dietary needs. The Pig and Abbot High Street, Abington Pigotts, Nr. Royston, Hertfordshire, SG8 0SD Telephone: 01763 853515

16 Find local pub music and other events www.huntscamra.org.uk/gigs GEORGE, BUCKDEN It's a big shock walking into what you think is going to be an old country inn packed with hunting prints and grandfather clocks and finding yourself instead in what could be a well-heeled brasserie in Kensington or Chelsea. But it works. The effect is one of elegant informality that suits both the local and the travelling trade; more to the point, perhaps, it suits chef Ray Smikle's menus. For although the letting rooms are usually though it has another, even more historic, fully booked and there's always a cracking coaching inn, the 15th-century Lion – pint of real ale at the bar – Adnams Bitter lacked a sufficiently chic venue for coffees and a changing guest from Nethergate – and lunches. it's the food that matters here, and the And so they bought the George. market the whole operation is pitched at is both sophisticated and contemporary. It But it needed more than just a bit of TLC. speaks volumes that general manager The whole place closed in July 2003, and Cynthia Schaeffer is French; and as for the ground floor didn't reopen until March Ray – why, the Furbanks had to pursue 2004. (The 12 bedrooms, all named after him all the way to Spain. various Georges – Best, Orwell, Washing- ton and so on – reopened one by one “Ray had been with Huntsbridge Inns and thereafter). Becky won't say how much the had run the Falcon at Fotheringhay in refurbishment cost; but it looks expensive Northamptonshire and also cooked at the Mermaid at Ellington near here, which is For the six-month project saw the place where my husband Tim has his business,” utterly transformed, from a cheap and says Becky. “So we knew him, and we weary pastiche of an olde inn into a smart, knew his style of cooking, and we knew it modern, upmarket bar-brasserie with zinc was exactly what we wanted. counters, chunky woodwork buffed to gleaming-point, and comfortable leather “The only trouble was, we didn't know chairs. The only original feature you'll see where he was. Eventually we found he is the parquet floor, which reappeared as was cooking in Spain, so we got in touch the swirly carpet and the concrete screed and underneath it were hacked away. Even per- the layout is nothing like the original: part suaded of the courtyard is now the Orangery, a him to conservatory-style dining room; what come might once have been the coffee-room is home.” now a very elegant private dining room; Ray's and the new bar and restaurant merge style is into each other, all light and air where con- once was solemn gloom.

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 GEORGE, BUCKDEN thing in between, something more sophis- ticated than a gastropub but less formal and more personal and accessible than a fine dining restaurant. “Ray is exactly the right chef from that point of view. We already knew his cook- ing was fantastic, but he builds on the reputation of his food by not hiding away in the kitchen. He's a great character who spends a lot of time out front turning cus- tomers into friends – and that, of course, generates repeat business. “Like us, he's well-known in the village. We built our reputation on taking personal care of our customers and getting to know them, and he shares that philosophy.” You know the Furbanks have got the mix right when you can't find a space in the George's substantial car park even on a Monday lunchtime. The investment has temporary but international, rather than been huge, but the old place has gone the Modern British that still seems to be in from decrepitude to bustling, buzzing life. the ascendant in these parts. Light The beautiful old George has been not lunches range from roast tomato and basil just rescued but reinvigorated, and good soup at £5.50 via smoked salmon and food has saved a slice of antiquity for pos- crayfish sandwiches with cream cheese terity. and spring onions at £7.95 to Gloucester- shire Old Spot pork belly with red cab- The George, High Street, Buckden, bage, mash, and Thai dressing at £12. Cambs. Tel 01480 811321. www.thegeorgebuckden.co.uk. Dinner is rather grander, with noisettes of lamb with tarragon mousse, garlic and Ted Bruning. Reproduced from Pub Chef. rosemary panacotta, and spinach, tomato and morel jus at £19.95 and grilled fillet of Highland beef, crushed truffle potato, but- ternut squash and cherry tomato confit and red wine shallot sauce at £24.95. But Becky insists that this is brasserie food, not fine dining. “We have a lot of good gastropubs in the district, and there are nationally-known fine dining restaurants in and around Cambridge,” she says. “We wanted some-

18 Booze on the Ouse - www.huntscamra.org.uk/festival for more details OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 THE GOOD BEER GUIDE PRAGUE The “Good Beer tised Pilsner Urquell, and with almost all Guide for Pra- pubs selling only one type of beer, it be- gue and the came apparent that we might have to Czech Republic” make more effort to try some of the differ- had not been ent styles and brands on offer. This is published when where the guide became indispensable. we booked our The descriptions of different beer styles flights to Prague early last year, but as and the maps provided made it relatively soon as we saw it advertised in “What’s easy to find an ample selection of interest- Brewing” we thought that it would make a ing drinking establishments all within walk- useful complement to our Lonely Planet ing distance of the main Wencelas city guide. Prague is a city so well sup- square. “Duende (2)” was only a short plied with pubs that were we left to our walk from U Rudolfina, and provided us own devices, we would surely never have with our first experience of “Bernard” beer sampled such a huge variety of beers as – an excellent well balanced lager. From we were directed towards by the Guide. the cellar bar of “U Zeleneho Stromu (7)”, we could actually see the large tanks con- We started our stay with a walk through taining the Pilsner Urquell. the more touristy areas of the city centre. We looked at the astronomical clock, and We then moved on to what turned out to after a few moments careful considera- be probably our favourite Guide recom- tion, decided that it was trying to tell us mended pub – “U Medviku (5)” – a brew- that it was pub o’clock. The Guide indi- pub serving dark (Tmave) and light cated that “Kolkovna” (No.3 in the GBG (Svetle) Budvar, and their own bottle- Prague) was not far away, and served conditioned “Oldgott”. This is an old fash- “tank” (i.e. unpasteurised and unfiltered) ioned unfiltered “half-dark” lager. A glori- Pilsner Urquell. Not being particularly fa- ously complex malt flavour is balanced by miliar with Czech beer, we weren’t sure strong hoppiness. From here, we also what to expect – what we got were tank- helpfully directed a hen party towards an ards of rich golden creamy lager with im- Irish pub. probably large heads. Served at cellar Having visited the various sights of Pra- temperature, the luscious malt flavours gue castle, we dropped in to “U Hrocha and aromatic hops were free to fill the (meaning ‘Hippo’)(28)”, which was a min- mouth. We enjoyed the beer so much that iscule pub nestled on the side of the hill we had another. We were really starting to beneath. The single room was heaving get the hang of things, so we had some with moustachioed dumplings too. Czech men drinking Our next stop was “U Rudolfina (6)”, tank Pilsner Urquell, which again served excellent tank Pilsner and pouring it on their Urquell in surroundings described some- beer cheese (a curi- what ungraciously by the Guide as ous, yet strangely “dingy”, but which we found most agree- compelling Czech tra- able. By this stage we had realised that dition – “beer cheese” almost every pub sign in Prague adver- is usually quite soft

20 Read Opening Times online: www.huntscamra.org.uk/news THE GOOD BEER GUIDE PRAGUE and eaten mashed up with some beer and trip to the out- then spread on some garlic-smeared skirts to see toast). The nearby “U Kocouru (29)” af- what lurked be- forded us our first taste of Kvasnicove yond Prague’s Pivo – a Czech Hefeweizen style beer, tourist-filled cen- and a real bargain at around 75p per pint. tre. Taking the trams recom- The Guide recommends several brew- mended by the Guide, we got completely pubs, and in addition to U Medviku, we lost. It would appear that some of the tram visited “Pivovarsky Dum (17)” and “U lines have been re-numbered. Eventually, Fleku (20)”. The contrast between the two we made it to “U Klastera (31)”, and found establishments was very marked. Pivovar- some excellent “Klaster” beers, and great sky Dum serves 3 house brews, including value food. Sadly, “Bastard (32)” ap- a fabulous dark lager, accompanied by peared to be closed for the summer. So, traditional Czech cuisine (so more dump- we wended our way back to the city for a lings) in a relatively quiet unassuming final lap of our marathon pub crawl. area of the city. U Fleku is described by “Ferdinanda (12)” had 4 Ferdinand beers the Guide as “a tourist trap, but a good on tap, including the “7 bullets” beer one”; their own dark lager (the only beer ghoulishly commemorating the means of on sale) being truly magnificent (and eas- Franz Ferdinand’s assassination. A real ily the most expensive we encountered – gem that we very nearly missed was about £1.50 for 0.4l). “Rehore Samsy (14)” – a tiny bookshop “U Zlateho Tygra (8)” is thought of as one within a shopping centre just of of the truly great pubs in Prague, and had Wenceslas Square – which just happened a fantastic atmosphere including some to serve two varieties of draught Policke rather enthusiastic accordion-based music beer. We were the only people drinking in the tiny back room. The Guide warns beer, which was rather surprising in itself, that it is often impossible to get a table in and especially given that the dark lager here, but we managed (just) to find a was just about the best we had found. place to squeeze in (vertical drinking We finished our pub crawl at “Kyvaldo seems to be completely absent, not least (15)” where we enjoyed Bernard yeast because where would the waiter put your beer and a dark lager which was so rich in little score card listing all the beer you’d complex malt flavours that it was almost drunk?). Whilst the tank Pilsner Urquell like a porter. As we tucked in to a valedic- was not noticeably much better than at tory helping of dumplings we reflected on other tank pubs, who could resist visiting our very good fortune that the Guide had the pub to which Vaclav Havel took Bill come along at just the right moment for us Clinton for a drink? to take full ad- Having visited most of vantage. the pubs in and around Mel and Edric the old town recom- Ellis mended by the Guide, we decided to take a

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 THE BUDGET The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) has next four years, despite what happens to hit out at the Chancellor's decision to in- UK pubs and the beer market. crease beer duty by 4 pence a pint in to- Mike Benner added, “Pubs are defined as day's Budget, together with annual in- local services*, yet this tax rise alongside creases of 2% above inflation for the next other market pressures will accelerate four years. The consumer group claims closures to unprecedented levels. The that the increase will lead to at least 20 budget shows a disregard for our national pence on a pint over the bar, fuelling pub drink and for the 15 million people who closures and increasing unregulated enjoy it responsibly. drinking as more choose to drink at home or on the streets. This is the first time ever Four penny tax increase will that beer tax has increased by 4 pence - a rise of 13%! do nothing to curb binge drinking but will hit poorest CAMRA slams inflation- the hardest busting beer duty increase CAMRA called for a cut in beer duty in the as ‘a charter for smugglers Budget to help pubs compete with super- and cheap supermarket market prices. CAMRA believes that su- booze' permarket prices of beer are unlikely to be affected significantly by the tax increase, but pubs as small businesses, will have CAMRA recently announced that 57 pubs no choice but to increase prices at the are lost permanently every month as the bar. price differential between pubs and super- markets widens. Pubs provide a regulated Latest survey on pubs prices re- environment for people to enjoy alcohol leased today socially and responsibly. The latest survey of pub prices across Britain is also released by CAMRA today. Mike Benner, Chief Executive of CAMRA It shows that real ale prices across the UK said, “The Chancellor has failed to recog- have increased by 4.6% in the last year nise that well-run community pubs are the and the average price of a pint now sits at solution to Britain's binge drinking prob- £2.45. CAMRA claims that average post- lems. This budget will do nothing to stop budget pub prices will now hit at least binge drinking, but it will lead to pub clo- £2.65 for real ale and £2.85 for lager. sures on a huge scale, widen the gap between supermarket and pub prices and Before Budget increases apply, the most encourage smuggling and cross-border expensive region for a pint is London at shopping. It's a great big nail whacked £2.64 for real ale and £2.84 for lager. The ruthlessly into the coffin of the British best value pint of real ale was in the North pub.” at £2.15, with the best value lager in the North West at £2.40. The 90,000 strong consumer group has condemned the announcement that beer Full results of the survey are available at tax will increase above inflation for the www.camra.org.uk/budget2008.

22 Updates to Branch Diary - www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary Come for a pint (or two!) on the Nene Valley Railway What can be better than several pints of superb beer and steam atmosphere? Come along with your mates to the NVR’s Real Ale Festival on Sat/Sun June 21st/22nd and enjoy 16 real ales at Wansford. On the train there will be two barrels so you can enjoy your ride even more.

Inquiries: 01780 784444 The Dragoon Brampton Website: www.nvr.org.uk Well Young’s Ales Open all day every day families are welcome Real Ale, Real Food, We offer food every day Real Traditional Pub including Sunday night ALL home cooked traditional food with a contem- porary twist on our bar food. Booking advised. Live music monthly Food theme nights Senior citizens menu Mon to Fri lunch or dinner £7.95 inclusive two course meal with tea or coffee Families welcome Children’s menu 18 Buckden Road, Brampton Nene Valley Railway, Wansford Station, Tel 01480 453 510 Stibbington (just off the A1), www.thedragoon.co.uk Nr Peterborough PE8 6LR e mail: [email protected]

THE BRIDGE HOUSE A charming 16th century riverside bar & restaurant, where you can enjoy picturesque views of the Great Ouse. Recently refurbished we provide the ideal location for many occasions; a simple snack, a special lunch or a romantic evening celebration. Group bookings are also welcome. Conference facilities now available.

• Traditional Bar & Lounge • Snack Menu Available • Al Fresco Riverside Bar & Terrace • 4 Real Ales • Air Conditioned Restaurant • A wide variety of food & drinks available all day THE ONLY RIVERSIDE BAR IN ST NEOTS!! Market Square, St Neots, Cambridgeshire, PE19 2AP. Telephone: 01480 472044 Email: [email protected], OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 EVENTS AND SOCIALS May 2008 – St Ives Pub Ramble / Mild Month Sat 24th Local pubs of St Ives. A trip around the pubs of St Ives starting in the Floods Tavern 8:30 / Nelsons Head 9:15 / Royal Oak 9:45 / Oliver Cromwell 10:15 Fri 30th Mild Month Celebrations. CAMRA members will be partaking of simultaneous visits to pubs serving Mild in the branch area, including - the Cock, Hemingford Grey / Hyde Park & Lord John Russell, St Neots / Market Inn, Huntingdon. Further details will be posted on the CAMRA members Yahoo Group and Hunts CAMRA web site. June 2008 – Pub Presentation Tues 10th Open Committee Meeting, the Cock, Hemingford Grey, (8.30 pm). Fri 20th Trip to the Mad Cat, Pidley, to present their award for Most Improved Pub 2008. July 2008 – West of Huntingdon Pub Tour Tues 8th Open Committee Meeting, the White Hart, Great Staughton, (8.30 pm). Fri 25th Touring around the country pubs West of Huntingdon, starting at the Fox, Catworth at 8:30, then the Swan, Old Weston at 9:15, finishing at the Green Man, Leighton Bromswold at 10:15. A series of car pools will be arranged to transport members around the pubs. August 2008 Tues 12th Open Committee Meeting, the Anchor, Little Paxton (8.30 pm).

For further information contact Pete Godfrey, Social Secretary, on 01480 212849 or e- mail: [email protected]. An up to date listing of Social Events can also be found at the web site: www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary.

WHO TO CONTACT Chairman: Keith Lawson, 01480 352632 (h), [email protected] (h), 8 Peate Close, Godmanchester, Hun- Pubs Info: Roy Endersby, (01480) tingdon, Cambs, PE29 2DX. 473364, [email protected] Secretary, Press & Publicity: Paul Campaigning: Kathy Hadfield- Moorhouse, (01480) 496247 (h) Moorhouse, (01480) 496247 (h). Treasurer: Graham Mulchinock, (01480) Newsletter Editor: Andy Shaw, 01480 474472 (h), [email protected] 355893 (h), 07802 485449 (m), Membership: Margaret Eames, (01480) [email protected], 13a 385333 (h) Peppercorns Lane, Eaton Socon, St Socials: Pete Godfrey, (01480) 212849 Neots, PE19 8HL.

24 Updates to Branch Diary - www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary TRADING STANDARDS OPENING TIMES

Your local Trading Standards organisation Opening Times is published by the is Cambridgeshire County Council Trading Huntingdonshire Branch of CAMRA, the Standards. If you have any complaints Campaign for Real Ale (Copyright 2008) about trading standards issues at local All rights reserved. pubs please contact them. Views or comments expressed in this They have a role to protect consumers publication may not necessarily be those from errors or frauds concerned with of the Editor or of CAMRA. quality, description or price of goods, To contact the Editor Andy Shaw, see services or facilities and to detect and “Who to Contact” opposite. rectify unfair advertising practices. To Advertise Contact Cambridgeshire Trading To place an advert or enquire about our Standards helpdesk on 08454 040 506, rates please contact: or at Trading Standards Division, Sackville Neil Richards: 01536 358670 or House, Sackville Way, Great Cambourne, [email protected] Cambridgeshire, CB3 6HD. The local trading standards web site is Deadline for Autumn 2008 issue (136) www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/business/ is Friday 18th July 2008. trading/. The national trading standards web site is www.tradingstandards.gov.uk.

Manor House Hotel A traditional old country pub Serving Greene King IPA Plus two other ever changing Real Ales. 130 different Guest Ales over the last year. Full bar snack and restaurant menu. Plus now serving “A new Black Rock menu” Come and cook your own meat or fish on the Hot Rock 20 Chapel Street Alconbury, Cambs, PE28 4DY Telephone: 01480 890423

OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008 LocAle LocAle campaigner wins CAMRA's first National ‘Real Ale Campaigner of the Year' award. This results in a better choice of beers for Steve Westby from Nottingham has been the consumer at the bar. named as CAMRA's first Real Ale Cam- paigner of the Year at their National Mem- To be included in the Nottingham LocAle bers' Weekend & AGM. scheme a pub must sell a beer that has been brewed within a 20 mile radius. Pubs Steve Westby was presented the award that sign up to the campaign receive a for his hard work in creating and promot- variety of point of sale material to promote ing a new initiative called LocAle which that they sell local beers. Over 70 pubs in encourages pubs to serve at least one Nottingham have signed up to the scheme real ale that is brewed within 20 miles. and the principles of the initiative have The scheme has been trialled in Notting- been adopted in York, Isle of Wight and ham and CAMRA is set to roll it out na- Sheffield. tionally. On winning the award, Steve Westby said, Following the announcement of the acqui- “I feel very proud to be honoured as sition of Hardys & Hansons brewery by CAMRA's very first Real Ale Campaigner Greene King in 2006, Nottingham CAMRA of the Year in recognition of the success tried desperately to persuade Greene of the LocAle campaign. I dreamt up what King to keep the brewery open. became LocAle over a pint one evening Although the campaign unfortunately whilst mulling over the impact of the take- failed, it did have a knock on effect. It was over and cynical closure of Nottingham's suggested by CAMRA that environmen- last major brewer and it is pleasing that tally it would be better for people to drink such a simple idea has become so suc- local beers than have beer moved around cessful. This success is very much due to the country creating ‘Beer Miles'. Too the hard work of my colleagues on the many pubs were also just offering global Nottingham CAMRA committee in sup- brands. Enthused about the idea, Steve porting the idea and I must also thank my coined the phrase ‘LocAle' and a new son, Richard, for the clever design of the positive campaign was launched. very distinctive LocAle logo and for the supporting artwork that he created.” With the support for this campaign from the Nottingham CAMRA branch, Steve Brett Laniosh, CAMRA's Promotions and took it upon himself to draft the guidelines, Marketing Director said, "CAMRA LocAle to source appropriate point of sale items is an exciting campaign that we will be and ensure that the campaign would im- encouraging our 200 branches to adopt. It pact on pubs and drinkers alike. is amazing how such a simple idea will now help local pubs and breweries and The end result is Nottingham pubs now give consumers more local beers to try in consider selling local beers, those that pubs. I would personally like to congratu- sign up to the campaign are selling local late Steve on being the first winner of this real ales and this is therefore environmen- award." tally friendly and supports local business.

26 Updates to Branch Diary - www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary OPENING TIMES 135 SUMMER 2008