Issue 99 February - March 2017

FREEFREEFREE please take one the Drinker

The free newsletter of the Oxford and White Horse Branches of CAMRA www.oxford.camra.org.uk www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk Wantage Beer Festival Friday 17 March and Saturday 18 March 2017 February - March 2017 99

2 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 Contents Welcome Festival Diary 5 Going to the is good 20 A guide to the upcoming for you beer festivals

The OxfordOxford Drinker is the newsletter Wantage Tour Gardener’s World of the Oxford and White Horse 6 A guide to the of 21 Paul Silcock gives a branches of CAMRA, the Campaign Wantage for Real Ale. publican’s view

5000 copies are distributed free of Brewery News charge to pubs across the two 10 New breweries and new Pete’s Pubs branches’ area, including Oxford, beers 22 Pete takes a trip round Abingdon, Witney, Faringdon, the pubs of Cowley Eynsham, Kidlington, Bampton, Wheatley and Wantage and most of the villages in between.

PDF downloads of past issues are available at the Oxford CAMRA webiste, wwww.oxford.camra.org.ukww.oxford.camra.org.uk.

Editorial team:

Editor: Dave Richardson [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk

Advertising: Tony Goulding [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk Community Spirit Tony: 07588 181313 25 Graham Shelton on Layout/Design: Matt Bullock community owned pubs

Valuable contributions have been Memory Lane received for this issue from Richard 12 City centre pubs past and White Horse Queralt, Paul Silcock, Dick Bosley, present 27 Matt Bullock, Ian Winfield, Dennis News from the White Brown, Tony Goulding, Pete Flynn, Horse Branch and Graham Shelton. Brewery Focus 15 This issue we feature The photographs on the front cover Hook Norton Brewery and on pages 12 and 13 are all courtesy of the Oxford Mail and Oxford Times; those on pages 15-17 Branch Diary are courtesy of Hook Norton Brewery. 17 What’s On, including date

Please send contributions to the for Oxford’s AGM editor at the above email address.

Pub news can be sent to Pub News [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk 18 Including a new owner for the Castle Tavern The views expressed in this publication are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily Tony’s Travels those of Oxford or White Horse 30 Branches of CAMRA, or of CAMRA Tony meets some of the Limited. city’s female licensees

Printed by MRD Digital Print POTY Winners www.mrddigitalprint.com 31 Who won the branch’s © Copyright Oxford CAMRA 2017 Pub of the Year awards?

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4 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 Welcome ….. what exactly makes a good landlord? RUNNING A PUB can be a very The role of the landlord is low alcohol consumption stressful business with very little crucial in making people feel guidelines. We showed her this time to yourself, so as one pub welcome, and that is central to research and pointed out that near Oxford looks for a new a traditional pub’s role in the the UK’s suggested limit (14 tenant and one long-established heart of a community. A new units a week for both men and husband-and-wife management study by Oxford University women) is dismissed by many team call it a day, I started makes interesting reading, as doctors and lower than in most wondering what it takes to fill research done in conjunction other European countries. She that role. The pub recruiting is with CAMRA makes clear that listened politely but gave no the Abingdon Arms in Beckley – the pub can play a vital role in ground, saying the rest of see advertisement in this issue combating loneliness. Europe would catch up one day. – while the couple who have We argued instead for the moved on are Richard and Professor Robin Dunbar of the introduction of a minimum Katherine Gibson at the Angel university’s Experimental alcohol price that would stop and Greyhound in St Clement’s, Psychology department, said: people knocking back cheap Oxford. “This study showed that supermarket booze even before frequenting a local pub can going out, and this might at last The most successful landlords directly affect people’s social be possible when we exit the not only know how to keep and network size and how engaged EU. serve great beer and food, but they are with their local are also fine managers of community, which in turn can Make no mistake, the anti- people. They need to know how affect how satisfied they feel in alcohol lobby is another threat to delegate and how to balance life. to our pubs – but once again, what should be a fun the landlord’s role is crucial. atmosphere with a dedication to “Our social networks provide us Pub staff are trained to spot quality and service – no mean with the single most important people who have had too much feat when you consider that buffer against mental and and the pub is a much safer many customers couldn’t care physical illness. While pubs drinking environment than your less as long as they get served traditionally have a role as a lounge or bedroom. quickly. place for community socialising, alcohol’s role appears to be in I’d be pleased to hear from But then there’s that hidden triggering the endorphin system, anyone who would like to “something” that makes which promotes social bonding. nominate a particular landlord someone special. As Katherine Like other complex bonding for their role in the community, Gibson put it to me just before systems such as dancing, and we’ll include them in a leaving, “This is our house, but singing and storytelling, it has future issue. Let’s send the it’s a public house that we open often been adopted by large Nanny State packing and give to hundreds of people every social communities as a ritual good landlords the recognition day. It’s like a drop-in centre.” associated with bonding.” they deserve. We wish the Gibsons well as they change career, while we I recently joined branch DAVE RICHARDSON recognise that running a secretary Steve Lawrence to [email protected] successful pub isn’t a great meet our local MP, Nicola lifestyle when you have three Blackwood, who is the minister school-age children. responsible for the UK’s very

the Oxford Drinker 5 February - March 2017 99 The wonders of Wantage Dave Richardson WITH THE WANTAGE Beer Festival offerings were totally unknown coming up on 17-18 March, this to me, both being Christmas tours the pubs of an was a good time to revisit the ales still available in the first market town to see what its pubs have week of January. Slater’s of town to offer. Many CAMRA Stafford provided a ruby ale members know that there are called Blitzen (4%), while two outstanding real ale pubs Bosun’s (based near Wakefield here so they tend to disregard rather than anywhere near the the rest, but I wanted to sample sea) provided Ingle Belle (also a few more while paying 4%), a blonde beer with homage to the Shoulder of appropriate girly pump clip. I Mutton and Royal Oak. opted for the Blitzen which was in good condition, but The festival will be held at the forgettable. Pity I don’t have a Beacon community centre weakness for blondes… (formerly the Civic Hall) in the centre of town, close to Market King Alfred’s Head – known as Place where a cluster of pubs Alfie’s – displayed a CAMRA are located. Also in the Market LocAle certificate dating from Place is a statue of Alfred the 2014, but there were no local Great (849-899), the Anglo- beers on. Despite this the Saxon King of Wessex said to choice was good, and with a have been born here and who varied food offer this would successfully led his army make an appropriate lunchtime against Danish Viking invaders. stop. The Danes were ultimately successful, however – as there We then headed towards the aren’t many pubs where you renowned Shoulder of Mutton, can’t find Carslberg! only five minutes’ walk from Market Place, but stopped off With this royal connection it first at what looked like a very made sense to start at King historic pub across the road Alfred’s Head, a Punch Taverns from the Shoulder – the King’s pub at the west end of Market Arms. This is a former Morland, Place. The town’s nightlife is Greene King and now Hawthorn very much concentrated in this Leisure house, but no real ale area but this pub casts its net was available and when there widely, with a few shoppers is, it’s usually Greene King IPA taking a rest in the afternoon which I find very insipid. The including a couple of ladies with landlord of this mainly young their buggies. The roaring log people’s and sports pub was ABOVE FROM TOP: The King Alfred’s fire was a definite attraction. apologetic, but rightly pointed Head; the beer menu in the out that with the Shoulder of Shoulder of Mutton Four real ales are served here Mutton just across the road, he OPPOSITE: Guy Ripley (right) with with Sharp’s Doom Bar and St was unlikely to sell much real barman Oliver Curley with an Austell Tribute being the ale. Point taken! impressive line of handpumps at regulars. The other two beers the Shoulder of Mutton are rotated and today’s The Shoulder is a Wantage

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institution and Good Beer Guide “lunch in a glass”. I then moved eight real ales are dispensed entry since who knows when, on to a beer by another from a row at the back as the but there was some concern brewery, unknown to small bar wouldn’t be able to when long-serving landlord me – Indigenous – this being cope. The two bar areas (and Peter Fowler moved on in 2015 Monocle Stout at 4.6%. I don’t pleasant small garden) also and a temporary tenant was normally drink stout but found help make it a character pub, installed by Admiral Taverns. the finish very pleasant, and Guy – who previously ran We needn’t have been and ideal for a winter’s evening. the Plough in Witney – ticks yet concerned, as when Guy Ripley another box by selling all his took over later that year he The closest the Shoulder gets real ales for £3.50 a pint. There carried on Peter’s good work. to a regular supplier is probably is no food service yet, a Wild Weather, from the curiosity under the previous The range of real ales, plus a /Berkshire border tenant being a vegetarian-only couple of ciders, was as near Reading, providing Big menu served in a pub named impressive as ever and with a Muddy at 3.8%. Barman Oliver after a joint of meat with a pub craft keg and craft lager added Curley, a local artist whose sign to match… to cater for different tastes. Real works are on display around the ales came from far, wide and pub, proved a very Very reluctantly we dragged more local venues, with True knowledgeable and patient ourselves away, as we were North Brew Co of Sheffield – guide to all this great pub has to meeting White Horse branch not even listed in the 2017 offer. When Guy joined him to chairman Ian Winfield at the Good Beer Guide – providing a lay out 13 pump clips of beers Bear Hotel, back at the Market Pale Ale at 4.3% and a more already in the cellar and soon to Place. This is a 16th century unusual Red Rye at 4.7%. Red be available, some of us coaching inn owned by Swindon Squirrel from Hertfordshire contemplated moving to brewer Arkell’s since 2006, and provided Mr Squirrel, a 4.3% Wantage. Wild Weather was extensively refurbished a few ruby bitter, but the other ales strongly represented. years ago. It was rather difficult were more local. to judge whether it has any Instead of traditional pumps, the historical charm on a brief visit XT’s limited edition Animal range provided American Sour Whisky Cask at 5.5%, which some locals were raving about; but my eye went straight to a local micro-brewery, Barn Owl, based at Gozzards Ford near Abingdon. Its Gozzards Guzzler dark best bitter went down a treat at 4.4%, and at this point it would have been very easy to settle down for the evening and forget about the other pubs.

But I made do with another two halves, starting with Butts’ Honey Munster at 4.5% which had a rather odd tang – it’s described in one online post as

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on a dark winter’s evening, but contented myself with a half of and the seasonal Yule Fuel to me it seemed to be Dark Horse and we moved on. (4.3%) were also in evidence thoroughly modern – just the from West Berkshire, along with kind of hotel the town might A brisk 5- to 10-minute walk a formidable guest list which on need, but not making the most brought us to the Lamb, a partly this occasion included Dark of its heritage. thatched pub dating from the Star’s Revelation (5.7%) and 17th century which appears to Hophead (3.8%), Cassock (% Arkell’s own beers dominated, be the main dining pub in town, %), Butts’ Honey Munster of course – with Wiltshire Gold with the added benefit of a large (4.5%) and Dray Bells (4.1%), a and 3B being available, and the car park. This is a free house new Christmas ale by stronger Moonlight also being a but seems to source its real Wadworth. Healer and regular. A guest beer is also ales from Fuller’s, with London Magnificent Mild were duly available and this was Courage Pride, the seasonal Jack Frost sampled and found excellent. Directors (4.8%), a famous old and Gale’s Seafarers being Up to nine guest ales are brand now brewed by Charles available. A half of Seafarers available, but this is an Wells in Bedford. That might slipped down well, and as with insignificant number compared have been a better choice, but the Swan, none of these ales to up to 30 real ciders and after a half of 3B it was time to are available elsewhere in perries – the pub is a regular move on. Wantage. I found the pub rather finalist, and past winner, of gloomy, but it’s probably a nice CAMRA’s National Cider Pub of Ian was particularly keen for us atmosphere for couples the Year contest. We had been to visit the Swan, also on enjoying a meal – something we pleased to find the Shoulder’s Market Place, and this proved just didn’t have time for. real ales capped at £3.50 a pint, to be a good idea as it’s a new but at the Royal Oak they were entry in the Good Beer Guide No real ale was found in the all under £3 and mainly £2.70 or for 2017. It’s a free house Cellar Bar or the Blue Boar, £2.60. What great value. catering very much for young both being run by Greene King, people with a lot of live music and we also gave another GK This is a pub you could spend and a pool table, and I could pub, the Bell, a miss. It was all day in – so it’s probably just imagine it getting very crowded time to end our tour at another as well that it’s open evenings at weekends. It’s obviously a Good Beer Guide “must”, the only, plus lunchtimes at very old building (Grade II Royal Oak – just a five-minute weekends. As we made our listed), and I was intrigued by walk from Market Square. Paul way home, we reflected that an old pub sign displayed inside Hexter and his wife Frankie while Wantage has two apparently from the Smuggler’s have now run the pub for no magnificent real ale pubs, there Cott in Looe, Cornwall – now a fewer than 33 years, and he are also a few others worth restaurant. must be one of the few visiting – and we hadn’t had landlords with a beer named time to see the Abingdon Arms But what about the beer? This after him– Dr Hexter’s Healer or Lord Nelson, outside the is the interesting part as you (5%), from West Berkshire town centre. wouldn’t expect much choice in Brewery. The brewery does in a young people’s music pub, fact provide three of the four We had found over 30 real ales, but five real ales are served and regular ales (the other is with only one available at more it deserves its place in the GBG. Wadworth 6X), but Paul is not in than one pub – and for a town These were Loose Cannon’s fact a doctor. The nickname the size of Wantage, that’s truly Dark Horse and 42 Pounder, was bestowed upon him long impressive. With an X30 bus and three from the Marston’s ago when regulars had a habit every half hour from/to Oxford range – Hobgoblin from of telling him their troubles, and (not evenings), and an hourly Wychwood brewery in Witney, probably still do so today. Dr 31 service via Abingdon from/to 61 Deep (a pale ale) and Owd Hexter’s Wedding Ale (4%) is Oxford all day, there’s no Roger, a 7.6% strong ale. The self-explanatory. excuse not to visit. latter was very tempting, but I had more pubs to visit. I Maggs’ Magnificent Mild (3.8%) DAVE RICHARDSON

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the Oxford Drinker 9 February - March 2017 99 Brewery News there is so much talent and Hook Norton Loddon potential that is going to waste. Following the launch of January Penny Pond Porter (5%), being Tap Social Movement Ltd. was Joker (a 4% golden hop beer) and brewed for the first time in five founded in an attempt to stop Double Stout (4.8%) to start the years, was the first special beer this vicious cycle by providing year, its specials are the Rugby- of 2017. It is described as opportunities which set people up themed Nice Try (3.8%) for “overflowing with rich, roasty malt for long-term fulfilling February, a bronze ale described and balanced with plenty of employment. as “easy drinking”; and Hop to It Golding and First Gold hops, to for March, a light 3.8% ale made create a full-bodied and satisfying “We have worked closely with with Challenger and Jester hops, ale”. prisons HMP Spring Hill and YOI and Maris Otter malt. For more Cookham Wood whose staff and on Hook Norton, see feature on inmates have shaped our page 15. direction and ethos. We have developed exciting work experience and training Little Ox programmes in and business start-up for people Little Ox has been set up in the currently serving prison Oxfordshire village of Freeland sentences.” and uses a 10-barrel brewing system acquired from Its first efforts are bottled beers Northumberland. Head brewer called Good Size Eh?, an Ian Hemingway has a history of Shotover American pale ale; Grebe’s home brewing over thirty years Procession, an oatmeal stout; and he has been inspired by new Set up by Ed and Pip Murray in Bigboy Pants, a Belgian sour hop varieties and affordable 2009, the company that brews beer; and Bleeding Heart equipment to set up a business. Prospect, Scholar, Trinity and Numbskulls Cranberry and Thyme Its first beers are Wipeout, a Porter ales at Manor Farm in (5.5%). A bottle shop and 4.2% American Pale Ale; Odd Horspath, near Oxford, has function space are planned. Bod, a 4% premium bitter; and changed hands. The Murrays Filthy Rich, a 5% chocolate and have sold it to friends the Ross coffee porter. family while head brewer Mattias Sjoberg and his assistant Jamie Vale/ABC O’Sullivan maintain continuity. A new beer, Hoptric, is being FitzRoy (4%), a traditional English launched, and Shotover expected Best Bitter with a subtle hop to brew its one millionth pint early finish, is the first special ale of in 2017. the year, named after Vice Admiral Robert FitzRoy who developed accurate weather Tap Social predictions for the safety of Movement shipping and fishermen.

This unusual new operation Donne (a 3.8% Ruby Red ale) was based on the Curtis Industrial inspired by John Donne’s famous Estate at Botley, Oxford, aims to poem from 1624 “No man is an help ex-offenders into work and island”. Combining European has the slogan “criminally good hops and strong roast malt beer”. The company’s founders flavours, it will be followed by say: “Having worked closely with Hooke, a 4.3% Straw Yellow ale, so many people who have been named after Robert Hooke, an through the system we know that important English architect of his

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time. baskets of its bottled ales, including pump clips. XT The Brewery Shop in Brill (HP18 The annual special for 2017 is XT 9TY) is open Monday-Friday 9am- Its regular cask ales include -17, part of an evolving range of 5pm and Saturday 9.30am- White Horse Bitter, Village Idiot single hop special beers. The 11.30am, selling a wide selection and Wayland Smithy. base has a red rye malty of foreign bottled beers, wines backbone, giving a very light pale and ciders. red colour and a hint of tartness from the rye. Onto this base a Aylesbury Brewhouse Co, Vale’s changing run of single hop sister brand, is also pressing on additions will be carefully with many special ales. blended. The first brew is the S*M*A*S*H is a 4.3% pale beer Kazbek, a spicy and lemony made with a single malt (Maris flavoured Czech hop. Otter) and a single hop, Simcoe. Inertia is a 4.1 % traditional XT-Jester Experimental: English copper bitter described as hop growers are developing new “nothing mad, weird, or over the hop varieties and XT has been top but just a good old pint of selected to work on this project ale”. Supersymmetry (4.4%) is by brewing experimental beers. described as “a well-balanced The varieties are still in beer with a sensational blend of development, are only available hops and malts”. to the partner brewers and only have code names. The first of the The dining area at the Hop Pole new variety beers uses CF125 – pub in Aylesbury looks into the if this sells well, then the variety ABC Brewhouse, where the beer will be moved to large scale at the bar was made just the production and given a more other side of the glass – you can’t catchy name. get more locally produced than that! Animal KIWI is a very pale NZPA showcasing what New Zealand has to offer. Brewed with NZ White Horse Hops, generous lashings of Green Three new beers available this Bullet and Wakatu added during year from the Stanford-in-the-Vale the boil paired with Motueka and brewery are Show Pony RPA Wychwood Wai-iti dry-hop additions, the beer (4.5%) described as red, crisp, has layers of hop characteristics hoppy and rich; CRAZY Horse IPA The main news for February is the and flavours to enjoy. Lemon, (4.7% -- “clean, hoppy, punchy launch of Brakspear Jerusalem, Lime Zest, Mandarin, Raisin and and crisp”); and Pferdestarke to be followed in March by Vanilla all come to the party with (German for horsepower) Pils at Wychwood Pinhead, an oatmeal floral notes dancing 4.6%, made with pilsner malt and stout. Jerusalem is a 3.8% throughout. This cold fermented, German hops. traditional English Amber ale that dry beer is for the hop lover who has a dry biscuity flavour. wants a taste of Down White Horse – whose beers can Slipping into Six Nations mode, Under.Animal MONKEY, a Triple always be found at a pub it Wychwood adds that this is Hopped Pale Amber ale, uses leases in Oxford, the Royal “complemented by a smooth hops from the US, Europe and Blenheim – has also invested in bitterness from a ruck of the NZ, added at three different its brewery shop where items for sturdy English hops. Post-match stages during the boil and then sale include tee-shirts, analysis? It’s definitely worth a dry hopped. XT is also adding to sweatshirts and presentation try.” its range of keg beers.

the Oxford Drinker 11 February - March 2017 99 Down Memory Lane What was the Oxford BASS WORTHINGTON. Charrington. Courage. Gale’s. Ind Coope. pubs scene like 40 Mitchells & Butlers. Usher’s. years ago, when the Whitbread. And, of course, real ale revival was Morland and Morrells. All only just getting into brewers that are gone, if not forgotten – but very much part its stride? Dave of the Oxford pub scene in Richardson looks 1977. back branch provided a guide to city And then there were the pubs pubs and beers for participants long since gone, or renamed: on that first tour, and what the Albion, the Anchor, the follows is taken from that. Apollo and the Bulldog, for example. But some breweries “Like many other towns, Oxford are still in business, including is experiencing a dramatic Hook Norton and Wadworth, increase in the number of pubs while Morland, Brakspear and selling real ale,” says the guide. Young’s live on as brands but “In the past 18 months pubs not as independent breweries. owned by Morrells, Morland, Courage and Ind Coope have By the early 1970s, when changed back.” CAMRA was formed, most breweries had phased out real Morrells, whose Lion Brewery in ale in favour of mass produced St Thomas Street operated for and tasteless kegs, Watneys over 250 years before closing in Red Barrel and Whitbread 1998, was then the dominant Tankard being two of the most local name operating many of infamous examples. But the pubs, many of which were CAMRA mobilised public sold off to Greene King a few resistance and the tide started years after the closure. The to turn, and by 1977 Oxford and Wheatsheaf (which survives Bath were considered such independently) is one of the good places for real ale that Morrells pubs mentioned in the they were the first city visited by guide, which adds: “Morrells’ a Rail Ale Ramble, when a newest pub, the Pennyfarthing, special train from London which serves draught bitter, is carrying nearly 600 passengers to be found in a new concrete arrived on 1 October 1977. shopping centre, the Westgate. A complete contrast behind the I wrote about the 40th Westgate Centre is another anniversary of Rail Ale Rambles Morrells pub, the Paradise ABOVE FROM TOP: Paradise House, in the last Oxford Drinker House, a spartan one-bar local now the Castle Tavern and (December-January edition), where a good pint of bitter is recently acquired by Hook Norton; and organiser Crookham Travel assured.” The Kings Arms is still going strong although OPPOSITE: The Bear was already groups are smaller nowadays, The Pennyfarthing went on to known for its collection of ties by and travel on regular rather than become the Parrot, various 1977 special trains. CAMRA’s Oxford night-spots and a lap dancing

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club, while the Paradise House Of the 25 city centre pubs listed although Ind Coope’s Burton became the Castle Tavern and in the 1977 guide, six have Ale was described as “sweet was recently acquired by Hook closed and been converted to and full bodied”. Courage Norton. The special train’s other uses, ranging from Directors (another brand still passengers were also directed student accommodation to the existing under different towards other Morrells pubs Wagamama noodle restaurant ownership) was regarded as including the Queen’s Arms (formerly the Roebuck). Other “potent and of singular flavour”, (now the Lighthouse) and the pubs that have been renamed whereas Whitbread’s PA was Old Tom, which retains its include St Aldate’s Tavern (then described as “thin and insipid”, original name. the Bulldog), the White Rabbit and Usher’s PA (part of Watney (then the Gloucester Arms) and Mann) as “thin and bland”. Abingdon brewery Morland, like Eurobar (then the Welsh Pony), Morrells, dates from the 18th but 10 pubs that are still trading Overall, the train’s 600 merry century but closed in 2000 retain their original names. passengers were able to when bought by Greene King, Several new pubs have opened, sample around 15 real ales which continues to brew an ale mainly in the last 10 years – from 11 breweries, whereas called Morlands Original. In the including two by Wetherspoon today you might find a hundred 1990s Morland acquired many (the Swan and Castle, and Four or more real ales around the more pubs from Courage and Candles), O’Neill’s, the Wig and city from around half that Whitbread, some remaining part Pen and, more recently, Pint number of breweries. How of Greene King today, and the Shop. things have changed – for the famous Morlands Artist tiled better! sign can still be found in the The guide’s brewery notes also brickwork of some buildings that make interesting reading. My book Oxford Pubs relates have long ceased to be pubs. Brakspear of Henley (the brand the history and present day An example is the Apollo, lives on in Wychwood brewery, ambience of over 40 hostelries opposite the police station in St Witney) was lauded as “one of in the city. To order visit Aldate’s, now used as a student Britain’s outstanding real ale www.oxfordpubhistory.co.uk refectory. Other Morlands pubs breweries”, while Hook Norton’s mentioned in the 1977 guide beers were described as For more on Rail Ale Rambles, included the Waterman’s Arms “distinctive, unspoilt and very visit www.crookhamtravel.co.uk in Osney, now the Punter. English”. The larger breweries generally were less acclaimed, DAVE RICHARDSON Some famous pubs of 40 years ago are thankfully still very much in business, but under different ownership. The Bear was an Ind Coope pub that is now run by Fuller’s, as was the White Horse, now owned by Mitchells & Butlers which was then a brewery, but is now only a pub company. The King’s Arms was then a free house and is now owned by Young’s, another former brewery and now pub company whose beers are brewed by Charles Wells. The , once run by Hall’s, is now owned by Greene King but with a good range of guest ales, as at the King’s Arms.

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14 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 Brewery Focus: Hook Norton Dave Richardson TRADITION IS A word which, you started producing keg beers as might think, describes well as a range of limited reports on one of the everything that Hook Norton production beers using its own oldest names still Brewery does. It is still brewing micro-brewery within the brewing, and how today on the same site where it original building. innovations are started over 160 years ago, and it still has a working steam Hook Norton’s take-over of the carrying it forward engine to supply power and a Castle Tavern in Oxford at the stud of shire horses that can be end of last year was a welcome seen pulling drays. It doesn’t development, meaning a matter that the steam engine is guaranteed outlet for its beers only fired up occasionally or that in the city for the first time. most of the beer is delivered by When it re-opens in May, a few lorry – what matters is that months before the much “Hooky”, as it’s often known, expanded Westgate Centre respects and builds on its opens just across the road, heritage. you’ll be able to sample up to eight real ales and other Situated in a north Oxfordshire craft beers not only village of the same name from this brewery, but local between Chipping Norton and guest ales too. Banbury, the brewery faces an increasing number of competitors keen to capitalise on the public’s thirst for craft ales be they cask, keg, bottled or canned. But tradition only gets you so far, and in the last couple of years Hook Norton has

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The story began in 1849 when strong branding too. The visitor John Harris bought a farm in centre and shop in the old Hook Norton that included a maltings is being expanded, Malthouse. Brewing started in with a second bar in the cellar 1856 with the first pub being now available for functions, and acquired three years later. The plans for a restaurant. The Pear Tree Inn, close to the museum on the upper floor brewery, was acquired in 1869 covers the village generally as and the brewery expanded well as the brewery. rapidly at the end of the 19th century. The brewery stands on Tours cover each floor of the the site of the original farm and adjacent tower, and also visit is thought to be finest surviving the shire horses in their stable. example of a Victorian tower The horses usually deliver to brewery. The very simple (and village pubs on Thursdays and ecologically sound) principle Fridays, and also attend special behind a tower brewery is that events by arrangement. all the ingredients are either carried or pumped to the top, The micro-brewery on the and come down by gravity. ground floor of the tower is a self-contained space where all Another link with tradition is that kinds of “crafty” brews (limited Hook Norton has been in the to 20 72-pint firkin barrels) can same family throughout its be tried out, and this is where existence – no mean feat when “brew your own beer” days are it’s had to weather periods of held at a cost of £500 per party. huge upheaval in the brewing These days are proving popular industry. Many family firms prior to weddings (about three were taken over, often by asset weeks before the event) and stripping giants who then closed include a personalised pump them down, while sometimes clip and two firkins of beer to continuing to brew beers with take away. the original name. Hook Norton’s managing director Traditionalist real ale drinkers James Clarke joined at the age needn’t worry about the new of 20 in 1991, and is the great- developments, as about 80% of great-grandson of the founder, output is still cask ale, with Alban Clarke being a nephew of Hooky bitter (3.5%) and Old John Harris. Some of James’s Hooky (4.6%) being the best- four sons have already worked known brands, brewed entirely at the brewery, so a sixth with British hops. Hooky Mild is generation of the family might still produced at a flavoursome one day take over. 2.8% -- a very low ABV by today’s standards – but the To visit the brewery today – as fourth core real ale has over 20,000 a year do on changed. The copper ale Lion is brewery tours operating daily no longer part of the core range except Sundays (£14.50/£12 but will appear as a special – ABOVE FROM TOP: Inside the over-60s) – is to not only soak the new core ale is Hooky Gold Victorian brewhouse; original up tradition and of course a few at 4.1%. copper vessels; the brewery beers, but to see a business museum with a modern outlook and “We started brewing Gold as a

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seasonal ale back in May last breweries that haven’t been year, but demand has been so through an independent great that we have been auditing process.” brewing it ever since,” says Micro-breweries do, however, marketing manager Mark enjoy significant tax breaks that Graham. “We are still brewing put small to medium-sized Mild and about a third of the breweries such as Hook Norton nearly 40 pubs in our estate at a disadvantage, squeezed take it on, but not many pubs between the micros on one take Mild for free trade sales. hand and the giants on the other. But Mark says Hook “We are now producing a Norton is not chasing volume seasonal ale every month, and sales, and is deriving significant with our micro-brewery we can revenue through its shop, tours, try all sorts of ingredients to special events and business respond to changing tastes. We meetings, which can be held might do a Black IPA or a honey either in its cellar bar or beer, for example.” boardroom.

Kegging equipment – injecting “We’re keen to make the Oxford carbon dioxide into beer to give brewery more of a destination in it a gassy taste and longer shelf its own right,” he explains. “We Branch life – was installed about two may do pop-up pubs to lift the years ago, and three so-called brand, and are always looking craft kegs are now part of the for opportunities to develop our Diary core range, these being Red pub estate. We will do about 50 Rye (4.7%), Cotswold Pale outside events this year, from Thursday 2 March (4.4%) and Merula Stout farmers’ markets to the Branch AGM (4.2%). Craft kegs are a rapidly Cornbury music festival, and we 7.00pm growing market that few also did Countryside Live at In the Blue Room, St Aldate’s brewers can afford to ignore, Blenheim Palace. There’s Tavern, St Aldate’s, Oxford OX1 being especially popular among definitely an appetite for real ale 1BU younger drinkers. at festivals – to have a pub Note that this is not the usual day experience in the middle of a for a meeting “Cask and keg ales will be field. available in the Castle in Saturday 11 March Oxford, but it won’t be a weird “Because we’ve been around Beer Festival Helpers’ Trip and wonderful bar like some of for so long, that is not a reason Coach trip to Bath for all those the new ones that have opened for people to buy your product. who helped at the Oxford Beer & there,” says Mark. We are always looking to do Cider Festival. Some guest places things a bit differently – may be available for £10. “With about 1,500 breweries tradition, but with a modern Departs Abingdon at 09.30 and operating in Britain we certainly twist.” Oxford Railway Station at 10.00. face a lot of competition, but Contact Steve Lawrence to book about 200 of them are probably To read more about Hook your seat. one-man-in-a-shed operations Norton’s heritage or to book a and the quality can vary greatly brewery tour, visit Saturday 18 March from brew to brew. But we do www.hooky.co.uk Branch Social expect the growth in breweries 1.00pm to plateau, and some large pub The Castle Tavern in Oxford is Social gathering at the Wantage companies have indicated they expected to re-open by the Beer Festival (see advert on back will no longer deal with beginning of May. page)

the Oxford Drinker 17 February - March 2017 99 Pub News Abingdon Eynsham Gosford BROAD FACE: Eight hand pumps QUEEN’S HEAD: Fears that the BROAD FACE: The pub, owned by have been provided at this town Admiral Taverns pub might close Mitchells & Butlers, has lost its centre pub since its re-opening following Peter Jones’s retirement Harvester branding and is now a last year, signalling that it intends after 33 years have proved Miller & Carter steak house. to be a serious player on the unfounded, as it has been taken town’s very competitive real ale over by Julie Burness with her scene. It is also happy to allow husband Peter, daughter Louise, Oxford you to taste before you buy. granddaughter Imogen and son ANGEL & GREYHOUND: Popular Brightly decorated and Sam. The Burness family has not management couple Richard and welcoming, the pub is Greene run a pub before but used to run Katherine Gibson have King-owned with Belhaven the Post Office at Wytham, near surprisingly decided to quit after brewing its own in-house brand Oxford. nearly 14 years at this Young’s Prison Break Bitter (3.9%) – the pub in St Clement’s, and have pub being across the road from Reader Garth Caine writes: This decided to take a career break the Old Gaol. A visit before was my first visit in many years to while considering what to do next. Christmas found two former the Queen’s Head, but I knew The couple, who have three Champion Beers of Britain from my drinking partner it had children under 14, met while available – Timothy Taylor just changed hands. What a working at the King’s Arms in Boltmaker (the 2014 winner) and pleasant surprise as it was a Oxford in 1995, moving to Tiny Rebel’s Cwtch (2015). Also light, airy and clutter-free pub London in 1997 for training in available on this occasion were with a warm, friendly management before returning to Morland Original, Wadworth atmosphere. After being made Oxford in 2003. Richard – who Bishop’s Tipple, West Berkshire’s very welcome by Julie and Louise, was due to leave on 23 January – Good Old Boy, and I tried a pint from the pump in said he did not expect any major Longboat. A visit in mid-January front of me -- the other pumps changes when a new manager found Prison Break, Longboat being in the snug bar -- the takes over. The pub serves four and Good Old Boy still available, ubiquitous Doom Bar, and after Young’s real ales plus a guest, but others had changed. These that I tried Fuller’s London Pride, which is often Purity’s Mad were Barn Owl’s Golden Gozzard these two are the regular ales Goose. (brewed just a few miles away), along with two guest beers. Both Timothy Taylor Landlord, Greene were excellent, crisp and clear. BEERD: It was business as usual at King Yardbird, St Austell Proper Pub grub is available with good the former Grapes in George Job and Sadler’s One Stop Hop. sized portions and good value. Street into the New Year, despite Both bars have fireplaces to keep fears it might close after Bath Beckley you warm, and there is a large Ales, now part of St Austell garden. The outside Gents have Brewery, announced it was giving ABINGDON ARMS: The community now been replaced with Ladies, up the lease. A new leaseholder buy-out of the pub from with Gents and disabled toilets is being sought and City Pub Brakspear was finalised in late indoors. As a disabled person Company – which runs St Aldates January, and it is now seeking a myself I was very pleased to find Tavern and also the George tenant prior to refurbishment and the Queen’s Head is totally Street Social bar – being one of re-opening (see Graham disabled friendly, and chairs will the names mentioned. Beerd Shelton’s column on page 25). be moved to allow wheelchair sells mainly craft kegs bit had The Beckley & Area Community access if required. This pub is four real ales n in January, two by Benefit Society has recruited over definitely on my ‘go back to’ list.” Bath Ales and two by Wild 270 shareholders and raised Weather. £480,000 – evidence that this SWAN HOTEL: The 18th century, village just to the east of Oxford is Grade II-listed hotel is listed as CASTLE TAVERN: Hook Norton is serious about saving its only pub. for sale on various websites, only the surprise new owner of this More information at two years after the present city centre pub, having finally www.savetheabingdonarms.org owners took over the lease. It realised its ambition to own a pub features a Thai restaurant. in Oxford more than 150 years

18 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017

after establishing its first pubs. It ISIS FARMHOUSE: Advertised as are also thinking of setting up a has bought the pub freehold, and sold subject to contract by estate pop-up pub in local premises.” the Castle was due to close at the agency Fleurets, one of Oxford’s end of January for a major oddest pubs is set to change To join a Google group fighting to revamp before re-opening by hands. Asking price was £1 re-open the pub, mmail May. The pub is adjacent to the million with annual sales of [email protected] Westgate Centre, which will be a £480,000, with potential for hive of activity when the much sales growth as it opens only UNIVERSITY CLUB: Bar Manager expanded retail complex opens in three or four days a week. The Kabi Puliyadi has left his post to November, and also close the free house, which typically has take up a role at Kellogg College. Castle Quarter. Latterly trading as one real ale available straight In his time at the University Club, a gay pub (the other main gay from the barrel, is not accessible Kabi has built up a great pub, the Jolly Farmers, is just by road but only via the Thames- reputation for the quality and around the corner on Paradise side path, and is near Iffley lock. range of real ales on sale. The Street), the Castle will welcome bar will now be run by Jamie SOMERSET: all customers when it re-opens A determined local Laughton, who has worked there and may be renamed. Built in group is trying to save this closed for more than a year and has mock Tudor style in 1892, its pub in Marston Road from previously worked at the Oxford other names have included the demolition and redevelopment. Retreat and Jericho Tavern. Paradise House and Culture The pub was run down for a few Vulture before reverting to Castle. years and failed financially, and Wheatley A basement space will become a has been bought by what the function room, including regular group thinks is a consortium of SUN INN: Villagers are in the dark events which may involve other developers. Group member about the future of this former breweries. Joint tenants are Jem Susannah Wilson says: “They are Punch Taverns pub, which closed Morey and Anthony Murray, who not being up-front about plans last year amid promises that it also run Hook Norton’s Ye Olde and have been talking about re- would re-open under new Reindeer Inn in Banbury. For opening it for a couple of years ownership. With the Railway also more on Hook Norton, see and nothing has happened. The closed, Wheatley is down to three feature on page 15. same group we believe has pubs while popular real ale pub demolished and built flats on the Cricketer’s Arms, in nearby other pub sites. Littleworth, is for sale.

“The Somerset is different, Witney however. It is an inter-war suburban pub with a long history; YE OLDE CROSS KEYS: Reader it’s also the last pub in Marston Douglas Rudlin has written in to (apart from Old Marston) and I say that this pub was actually the think five others have now gone. birthplace of Brakspear Bitter, There is also considerable local rather than Henley-on-Thames opposition to the loss of our last where it later became pub. We are a very committed established. “It was born in the CORNER HOUSE: The tenancy is group, and successfully listed it Cross Keys inn in Witney in 1769, being advertised as for sale by as an Asset of Community Value so no wonder it tastes more like New River Retail, which acquired in 2015. It’s never going to be an the original (if anybody it from Marston’s. New River old fashioned pub, but the people remembers what it tasted like Retail has a reputation for selling who run the Rusty Bicycle, Jacobs that long ago!) as its move from off pubs to developers, including and Field, and the Chester have Henley to Wychwood brewery in convenience stores, with the Co- said they think it’s definitely a Witney was back to its op said to be interested. But in a viable site for a mixed business, a birthplace,” explains Douglas. national agreement with CAMRA, pub which sells food and is a bit Meanwhile, the Greene King- the Co-op has agreed to consult of a café during the day. So there owned pub has announced that it and seek planning permission if it would definitely also be a place no longer accepts CAMRA intends to develop pub sites. for a good old fashioned pint. We Wetherspoon discount vouchers.

the Oxford Drinker 19 February - March 2017 99 Festival Diary Compiled by Richard Queralt Further details can be found on our website www.oxford.camra.org.uk

Wednesday 22 - Saturday Friday 17 - Saturday 18 HAVE YOU EVER 25 February March considered the National Winter Ales Festival Winchester Real Ale and word “pub”? What is means? St Andrews & Blackfriars Hall, St Cider Festival We say it all the time, and as a Andrews Hall Plain, Norwich Winchester Guildhall, The publican I probably say it more Includes Champion Winter Beer Broadway, Winchester than you, but maybe not. Pub. of Britain competition 70 beers, ciders & perries Public House. You say it www.nwaf.org.uk www.winchesterbeerfestival.org.uk enough times and you stop thinking about its meaning. Like Friday 24 - Saturday 25 Wednesday 22 March - The Beatles. Probably the best February Sunday 2 April band ever, but with one of the Bath Cider Festival Wetherspoon Real Ale worst names in history, but Bath Pavilion, Festival we’ve said it so often we don’t Road, Bath All JD Wetherspoon pubs & Lloyds think about the terrible pun it’s 100+ ciders & perries No1 bars based on -- but I digress. It’s www.clstickets.co.uk www.jdwetherspoon.com like remembering that Public House literally means a house Friday 24 - Saturday 25 Friday 14 - Monday 17 April for the public, for everyone. Somewhere for everyone to go. February Black Horse Beer Festival

Merton Beer Festival Faringdon Road, Gozzard’s Ford, Merton Village Hall, Islip Road, nr Abingdon I’ve long maintained that a pub Merton, nr Bicester 01865 390530 should be non-partisan, and www.the-blackhorse.co.uk shouldn’t fly its allegiances from a flag pole. Take politics. If Wednesday 8 - Friday 10 every pub declared its March Friday 21 - Sunday 23 April political leanings, would London Drinker Beer & Cider Spring Beer & Cider Festival that encourage only Festival The Brewery Tap, Ock Street, those with the same Camden Centre, Bidborough Abingdon political leanings to Street, London 01235 521655 drink there? Surely 150 beers, ciders & perries www.thebrewerytap.net the point of the www.northlondon.camra.org.uk Please check dates with the pub as these are not yet confirmed. Public House is so

Friday 17 - Saturday 18 Friday 28 – Sunday 30 April March Spring Beer Festival Coventry Beer Festival The Nag’s Head, Bridge Street, Coventry Rugby Football Ground, Abingdon Butts Park Arena, Butts Road, 01235 524516 Coventry www.thenagsheadonthethames.co.uk 80 beers, ciders & perries www.coventry.camra.org.uk Saturday 29 April

Witney Beer Festival Friday 17 - Saturday 18 St Mary’s Church, Church Green, March Witney Wantage Beer Festival One day beer festival, opens at The Beacon Arts & Leisure 12. Centre, Portway, Wantage www.witneybeerfestival.com 28 beers plus ciders & perries www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk

20 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 Gardeners’ World Paul Silcock, landlord of the Gardeners Arms in Plantation Road, North Oxford, continues his regular column that different ideas, be they idea as the pub serving as a Community pub goers tend to political or otherwise, get a hub for the community, a place drink less than those who use chance to be aired in public, for people to meet up and chat. large city centre pubs, and this meet other ideas and be And this is a very important moderate alcohol consumption challenged, or changed, or idea, not just for keeping me in improves cognitive ability as confirmed. Of course, a landlord business, but for you as well. well as enabling us to build isn’t expected to be non- Last year CAMRA friendships and a sense of partisan. We are, after all, commissioned a study from the community and wellbeing. And members of the public as well. University Of Oxford’s we all need a sense of Department of Experimental community now more than ever, That’s not to say people can Psychology into the role of the as understanding and knowing say whatever they like in a pub. pub in a community. The study our neighbours is going to get There will always be some makes for fascinating reading, pretty essential if we don’t want ideas that won’t be tolerated. but its conclusions are even to end up in even more of a I’ve barred people for more fascinating. Most regulars mess than we are in. Do you expressing their stupid racist, to a pub would tell you of the think Donald Trump knows his homophobic or sexist views. benefits of getting out of the neighbours? Not a chance. (I Because (a) that sort of thing house and meeting friends, but know I said a pub should be just shouldn’t be tolerated and now we have a study that non-partisan, but I just want it (b) it’s a Public House, for the scientifically backs this up as on the record that Donald public, which as we’ve agreed, well. Trump is barred here, because, means everyone. At least well, some behaviour won’t be everyone who isn’t a narrow The study found that people tolerated). minded idiot. who regularly patronise community pubs have more What’s really heartening about This idea of the Public House close friends and are more the study’s findings is that being for the public is the same satisfied with their lives. CAMRA and local online service Ami felt it was worth being proactive about. This Christmas CAMRA and Ami partnered up to help people connect with their community through an event held at the Chequers, the aim being to bring people together to make new friends. You can find out more about Ami’s great work at www.withami.co.uk

So the next time you go to your local, you’re doing more than just supporting the pub, you’re supporting yourself, your cognitive abilities, your community and your sense of wellbeing. Now that’s worth drinking to!

the Oxford Drinker 21 February - March 2017 99 Pete’s Pubs Branch chairman Pete I WAS LOOKING forward to finding London Pride and Seafarers, a few hidden gems on my visit and I chose the latter which was Flynn goes on a to the Cowley area of Oxford. It in good condition. Seafarers Cowley Crawl is perhaps unfortunate that, has a golden colour and unless you are a resident there, glistening amber hue, and can't you are possibly unlikely to visit really be considered either dark this conurbation, synonymous or light. Despite its deep tone with car production, as there are the clarity is perfect and its so many good pubs to be found head, which sits atop the beer nearer the more accessible like a clump of mashed central part of the city. potatoes, is smooth and steady. Most enjoyable. Under-utilisation is, perhaps, one of the myriad reasons we Jimmy plans to offer a continue to see pubs closing at combination of tapas, Italian the rate of 25 per week, and English food from the end according to current CAMRA of January and the pub looks to statistics. have a brighter future similar to the eponymously named bird of My first call was the Marsh prey, which faced extinction Harrier, Marsh Road. First about 40 years ago but is now impressions were not great as re-inhabiting the British there was a foreboding sign countryside. attached to the wall inviting people to contact the agent for The pub certainly has a local those seeking a potential feel about it with various pub investment opportunity, this games available and a selection latter phrase being a of books to read in this back euphemism for a pub likely to street of Cowley. I am looking be sold and converted to forward to a return visit and may alternative use. I was met by even hold one of our monthly the landlord, Jimmy Hoxha, who CAMRA branch meetings at this had only assumed the Fuller’s attractive, quaint pub. tenancy less than a month ago which, thankfully, answered my Next on my list was the initial concern. Jimmy told me Cricketers Arms, owned by he had managed the Red Lion, Greene King, at the bottom of Islip hitherto so he has Temple Cowley Road. This is a experience. typical sports bar offering Sky TV, pool and darts with two real The pub interior is full of ales available – Greene King timeless charm with a wooden IPA and Ruddles Best Bitter. I bar and coat hooks underneath chose the latter, a clear, amber it, and a brass bell to call time; a coloured beer with a thin white brass bust of a Marsh Harrier (a head, aroma and taste of bird of prey) is also featured. caramel, biscuity malts, fruit and Customers are mostly local subtle spicy hops. The pub has ABOVE: Templars Bar and Kitchen residents, teachers and the a strong local following and is new in Cowley Centre; The local business fraternity. numerous cups can be seen Marsh Harrier at Cowley Marsh above the bar recording support NEXT PAGE: The revitalised Jolly It serves a revolving guest and for sponsorship of football, pool Postboys in Florence Park two permanent beers, Fuller’s and darts. 22 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017

A short walk to the periphery of took over last year. It was in a These are the permanent beers Templars Square Shopping poor old state, Paddy told me, with two changing guests which Centre took me to my next pub, and badly in need of renovation. are mostly from local breweries which is the newly opened Paddy had previously spent two such as Shotover or XT. Templars Bar and Kitchen – a years running the Chester in former Post Office and fish and Chester Street, whilst his I opted for Mr Chubb’s which is chip shop. The definition of “pop colleague, Jade, had gained six a beautifully balanced session up pub” would best describe years’ experience in pub ale with a refreshing light floral this free house, which competes management working alongside flavour provided by a single with the adjacent Wetherspoon top chef Steven Sanderson at variety of English hops. Mr (the William Morris). It is the Chequers, Burcot. Chubb was the nickname given competitively priced on both to the brewery founder’s father, beer and food offerings with The Jolly Postboys really has a a lock keeper on the River Greene King IPA at £1.50 per funky, friendly, bright and Thames. pint. I opted for the ubiquitous breezy feel about the place and Fuller’s London Pride, although is obviously popular with locals I decided to stay for a spot of I could have gone for the with people enjoying Sunday lunch as the food looked very Templars House Ale which I lunch whilst I was there. It is tempting and I’m very glad I did. was informed is by Hook often said that people make a I had the slow roasted pork Norton. For those with a sweet difference to whether a pub belly stuffed with sage and tooth, free chocolates are survives and these two sausage, which was succulent available on the bar. individuals, from what I could and served with a selection of gather, have bags of passion roasted vegetables and Savoy I had a chat with the owners and commitment – definitely a cabbage, and a very tasty wine Pam and Ron who told me that recipe for success. reduction gravy providing bags the pub was not viable as a fish of flavour. and chip shop but is proving Following the acquisition of a popular with locals who like the lease from Greene King, the My crawl around some Cowley cheaply priced beer. For those pub serves four real ales which pubs had been very enjoyable who enjoy tropical fish there is a include West Berkshire and I had discovered a couple huge aquarium in the seating Brewery’s Mr Chubb’s of gems which I hope to revisit area which provides a chill Lunchtime Bitter, and Loose with colleagues who can judge factor away from the hustle and Cannon’s Abingdon Bridge. for themselves. bustle of the nearby shopping centre.

During a career spanning in excess of 20 years Pam has managed various Oxford pubs including the Berkshire, the White House and the Duke of Monmouth. I wished them well in their new venture before a short walk took me to my next venue, the Jolly Postboys in Florence Park Road.

This pub has been completely transformed since the new team arrived, consisting of Paddy Henderson, Jade Konz, and George Harwood-Dallyn, who the Oxford Drinker 23 February - March 2017 99

24 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 I’m an apprentice, get me out of here! Graham Shelton, chairman of the company that bought the Red Lion at Northmoor for the community, continues his regular column

ENJOY THE CHRISTMAS and New community pubs. My friends in recruited and settling in, there Year TV? Personally I’ve never Beckley will have had a quiet will be a formal opening.” seen the festive connections of time at the Abingdon Arms this “Can’t Pay? We’ll Take it Away”, year, as it is currently closed. I can’t wait to join in the “Secret Hoarders” or “Four in a But I am pleased to share with celebration. Mike and his team Bed”, the last of which definitely you some really exciting news tapped into advice from several over-promises and under- from Mike Hobbs, the leader of of the other community pubs delivers, even with tinsel. their community buy-out team. now thriving in Oxfordshire, and Perhaps what we need is more we all did our best to offer what programmes about pubs, but I’d “Having recruited over 270 insight and experience we could say they are a lot more fun in shareholding members and to help things along. the flesh than on Christmas TV. raised £480,000 capital, the Beckley & Area Community Helping others into community Here in Northmoor we have the Benefit Society has exchanged pub ownership is turning into a most lovely traditional candlelit contracts with Brakspear for regular pastime here in service of nine lessons and purchase of The Abingdon Northmoor, with people from carols on Christmas Eve. We Arms, with a planned Berkshire, and some new remind ourselves of what it’s all completion date in late friends all the way from the about, we sing a few rousing January”, writes Mike.” The pub Brecon Beacons all asking for verses of “Joy to the World!”, is currently closed. An active input since I last wrote this and then we party in each advertising programme has column. other’s houses much longer been initiated to attract an than we should. On Christmas experienced tenant as soon as In my case I always feel rather morning the whole village possible. Potential applicants exposed when offering such congregates in the Red Lion to can find more information at advice, not being anything of an exchange beery Christmas www.savetheabingdonarms.org expert myself. It seems that the greetings, whiskery kisses and or by phoning Mike Hobbs on old adage is still true: in the land home-made mince pies. I know 07833 676516. Because there of the blind the one-eyed man is of no better way to celebrate the will be a time gap before a king. But for me, it’s more “I’m joys of living together in such a tenant is in place, essential an apprentice, get me out of great community. repairs and remedial work will here!” be undertaken, and the Society We do, of course, think of those is looking into opening a Happy New Year! less fortunate than ourselves community 'pop-up' pub in the who don’t yet have their own interim. When the tenant is

Oxford Branch Contacts: Oxfordshire Trading

Chairman Editor of the Oxford Drinker Standards Service: Pete Flynn Dave Richardson [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk Graham Hill House Electric Avenue Secretary and Branch Contact Ferry Hinksey Road Steve Lawrence White Horse Branch Oxford OX2 0BY 01235 525436 Contact: Tel: 01865 815000 [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk [email protected] www.oxfordshire.gov.ukwww.oxfordshire.gov.uk

the Oxford Drinker 25 February - March 2017 99

26 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 White Horse Pub News Wantage Beer Festival

Stewart and Debbie Bruton Stanford Social Club in Stanford (pictured above) have -in-the-Vale now welcomes announced that they were to CAMRA members, and has two The festival returns to The leave the Swan in Faringdon on ever-changing real ales with Beacon (formerly the Civic Hall) 30 January, Stewart also being Everards Tiger and Lincoln on 17-18 March. The festival the brewer at Faringdon Green’s Little John being recent was last held here in November brewery which is located behind offers. Open on Monday to 2013 and will now be a regular the pub. The Swan is in the Saturday evenings from 8pm- event in March, so do join us 2017 Good Beer Guide and this 1pm and on Sunday afternoons and make this festival as very sad news for the from 12-6pm, it has its own successful as in the past. branch. The Brutons took over darts, pool and crib teams. Run the pub five years ago and have entirely by volunteers, the club It will feature 28 beers with a transformed it into a thriving shows Sky Sports and holds selection of special brews from pub. regular theme evenings. local breweries, and four ciders and a perry will also be Brewery Visit available. Several local brewers will be at the festival on Friday On Saturday 7 January the Stout has now also become the afternoon 17 March. White Horse branch visited top seller for the brewery. The Bingham’s brewery located at award is proudly displayed in At 6pm on that Friday evening Tavistock trading estate, the brewery shop along with the branch will announce its Ruscombe Business Park, near several other awards. Pub of the Year, Country Pub of Twyford, Berkshire. Chris the Year and – new for 2017 – Bingham founded the brewery The tour including sampling its Club and Cider Pub of the in 2010 following extensive Twyford Tipple (3.7%), Year. On Saturday 18 March it training at Hog’s Back brewery Brickworks Bitter (4.2%), Hop is hoped to screen the Six in Tongham, . Project Citra Cascade (4.5%), Nations Rugby matches. Space Hoppy IPA (5%) , The The brewery is a 10-barrel plant Warmer (5%) and of course Branch AGM producing a vast selection of Vanilla Stout also at 5%. cask ales, and is the Bingham’s beers are typically This will be 7.30pm on 7 March current Supreme Champion available in the Reading area, in the Royal Oak, Wantage. All Beer of Britain holder for 2016. and Vanilla Stout will be members are welcome, and this This is the first ever time a stout available at Wantage Beer will include nomination of the has won the award, and Vanilla Festival. committee for the year ahead.

the Oxford Drinker 27 February - March 2017 99

28 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017

the Oxford Drinker 29 February - March 2017 99 Tony’s Travels

Tony Goulding MITCHELLS & BUTLERS is well Just around the corner in known amongst older drinkers Cornmarket, down another profiles the “M&B as one of the big three alley, is the Crown -- run by girls” – most of the breweries from the Midlands newly promoted Angela chain’s Oxford pubs based in Birmingham, with Brew Economopoulos who had been being managed by 11 and Bass amongst its second in command under famous beers. From a massive Kerry at the Chequers for over ladies 7,000 pubs in the 1960s the two years, taking over from company had various identities Chris Brown who has gone to until 2003 when the name was Bath. After working in a resurrected as a chain with vineyard and family restaurants 1,700 pubs, bars and in London and Ingersol in restaurants trading under such Ontario, her next destination names as Nicholson’s, Castle was Oxford. The Crown serves Taverns, Ember and Vintage eight real ales with bottled cider Inns. and craft keg, and has a busy food scene. I used to drink a It has several in the Oxford area tasty Charrington IPA here back with Kerry Skrzytiec at the in the 1980s in what has been a Chequers leading the gang of comfortable but busy house girls running these venues very popular with tourists. successfully. To have such a high percentage of female Moving into St Giles we find managers is most rare and Robyn Cuthell, who has run the almost unique to M&B. historically important and St John’s College-owned Eagle The Chequers is that old and Child for nearly three years. rambling building down an alley She took a temporary position off Oxford High Street, collecting glasses while looking dispensing 10 beers with a for a proper job and for the next good selection of ciders and 12 years enjoyed working in bottles along with ever popular M&B pubs. Sometimes known good food. Kerry had been an as the Bird and Baby, the pub administrator but looking for serves four real ales including a something different, took a part- very tasty Sharp’s Sea Fury time cleaning job at a pub and along with bottles and a couple very soon had worked her way of ciders. Popular food is served up to become a manager. In the with pies being a speciality. Big 13 years since she has moved changes are afoot in mid-2017 on from Middlesex to Oxford, with refurbishment planned. serving at and the Crown before leading Up Woodstock Road is the very the Chequers into the Good attractive, rambling old Royal Beer Guide, with a very Oak, now the only pub on this welcome 20% discount for major route out of the city. This CAMRA members. All three of multi-roomed and comfortable FROM TOP: Niki Devaraux, Angela these pubs have Nicholson’s food house is in the capable Economopoulos, Kerry Skrzytiec branding. hands of Michelle Sporle, a

30 the Oxford Drinker 99 February - March 2017 Pubs of the Year veteran of over 20 years in busy The girls do allow some lads on Bass pubs in London and then the Oxford scene, with Ian Liverpool before coming to Ridding being manager at the Oxford. Michelle is well Jericho Tavern, once the main supported by her staff and they music pub in Oxford. Now do a good job of serving four serving two real ales and a real ales, cider, bottles and craft large selection of craft kegs and keg. As with the Eagle and cans, it is also known for good Child, tourists and the university food. are the main customers with a few regular locals. The only pub actually on Banbury Road, the Dewdrop in Jut over Magdalen Bridge you Summertown was acquired by A community-owned village pub is will notice, in a prominent M&B 12 months ago and one of two named Pubs of the position on The Plain, the Cape refurbished, and is now very Year 2016 by the Oxford branch of Good Hope – a former well run by George Cupit and of CAMRA. The Seven Stars on Morrells house which has since his team which was a big the Green in Marsh Baldon has been called the Pub Oxford or challenge following the 33-year won the Town and Village award It’s a Scream, both of which reign of the previous landlord. for the first time, whereas the were a typical marketing man’s The Dewdrop still commands a Mason’s Arms in Headington failure. Jo Mountain has been busy food scene with a Quarry has won the City award running this student haunt for selection of four real ales and a several times before. the past year having previously couple of craft kegs. worked for M&B in Nottingham. CAMRA members vote using a Her team serve four beers, M&B has faith in the girls out in range of criteria with beer quality some interesting craft kegs and the suburbs too, as the being foremost, followed by style/ cans along with quirky food. I Britannia in Headington is well décor, service and welcome, have fond memories of a run by Niki Devaraux. The “Brit” community focus and certain Chris Moss serving me is a super value pub with eight atmosphere, alignment with Wychwood Black Witch here. real ales costing £3-£3.50 a CAMRA’s values, and overall pint, plus some craft kegs along impression. The 2015 holders of A somewhat different situation with very popular food. Very the awards were the Nag’s Head applies at the White Horse in well supported by locals and in Abingdon, and Lamb and Flag Broad Street, with the pub visitors, the pub was rebranded in Oxford. being leased from M&B by a as an Ember Inn a couple of small team headed by Kasia years ago with Niki moving from Runners-up were the Nag’s Head Jasinska, a friendly lady from M&B’s heartland in the and Red Lion, Northmoor in the Eastern Europe. Not part of the Midlands to run it. Town and Village award, and the Nicholson’s chain, the White Lamb and Flag and Chequers in Horse serves six real ales, a I hope I have painted a the city. cider and a couple of bottles. favourable picture of M&B’s The pub can be very busy in mainly female management in To be considered for our Pub of term time with students and Oxford. If you know of other the Year awards, pubs must first tourists and of course is one of unusual pub ownerships or make it into the Good Beer the main pubs in the Inspector management, let us know. Guide. The Oxford branch hopes Morse TV series. It is one of the for an increase in allocation for city’s smallest pubs, and good 2018 from 17 pubs to 21, and food is always available. 24 by 2019.

the Oxford Drinker 31