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Home , Laing (food), List of tapas, Shiro (food), The Fat Duck

100 favorite restaura nts around the world

For this year’s Dining and Entertaining issue, we present a hundred and eating experiences from 10 of the world’s thriving gastronomic metropolises. We’ve asked 10 Filipino expatriates–some current, some former, but all of them lovers—to­ share their own lists of favorite culinary comforts in their second hometowns. From old favorites New York, Paris, Barcelona, and London, Asian powerhouses Tokyo, , and Singapore, to the burgeoning capitals of Cape Town and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got the best of the East, the West, and everything in between. PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF BABEL BABEL OF COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHS

EDITED BY MANICA C. TIGLAO

2 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 3 EMPIRE STATE OF MIND New Yorkers enjoy the sun at Brooklyn Flea's all-food market, Smogasburg. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Bomboloni (deep-fried doughnuts and gelato) at Marea; cranberry walnut muffins at San Francisco's Bakery; tagliolini at Marea; an exterior shot of Perbacco; cocktail drink at Maison Premiere.

and Royal Miyagis are on the menu, give them a go. are a few: Nan Xiang (8-12 Prince Street, Flushing; Sit at the bar and watch the artistry as they whip up +1.718.321.3838) You’ll get the best xia long bao any one of their tasty drinks, from cocktails to juleps here: delicate hand-made wrapper, and just the to absinthe drips. 298 Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg, right amount of filling-to-broth. Recent popularity Brooklyn; +1.347.335.0446; maisonpremiere.com; info@ in Islamic Chinese food can be traced back to Xi’an maisonpremiere.com Famous Food (41-28 Main Street Basement, #36, Flushing; +1.212.786.2068; xianfoods.com). Any of the 7 Marea hand-pulled noodles in soup are worth the trip alone. It’s a real challenge to consistently put out food that So is the cold lamb’s face salad. Grand Restaurant is both thoughtful and precise, and Michael White’s (40-21 Main Street, Flushing; +1.718.321.3388) wonderful seafood establishment on Central Park serves dim sum that rivals Hong Kong. Chuck the South manages to do this with ease. Definitely order menu and make sure to keep your eye on the carts the seppia (cuttlefish tagliatelle with bottarga) and the as the best stuff zooms by. Spicy and Tasty (39-07 fusilli (red wine-braised octopus with bone marrow), Prince Street, 1H Flushing; +1.718. 359.1601; eat@ which is on my shortlist of favorite dishes in New York. spicyandtasty.com)—do not be dissuaded by the name. 240 Central Park South, Manhattan; +1.212.582.5100; This restaurant specializes in Szechuan food. All their marea-nyc.com; [email protected] cold appetizers are amazing, and don’t forget to order the scallion and egg . Save this for the last 8 Sakagura stop on your Flushing tour, as those tongue-numbing Located in the basement of a non-descript office Szechuan peppers do serious damage. building in Midtown, this is my go-to Japanese pre mi ere restaurant. With limited sushi and sashimi offerings, it shines with its cooked food (and sake selection). The onsen tamago is a thing of beauty (soft poached egg, San FR ancisco m a i son dashi broth, topped with sea urchin and fish roe). I ) of dream about that one. 211 East 43rd Street, Manhattan; +1.212.953.7253; sakagura.com Sandy Klar is a transplant from

stop who believes you leave your heart, as well 9 Smorgasburg

bus as your stomach, in San Francisco. (

This outdoor, food-centered fair showcases upward of 75 local (New York and Northeast) vendors every Saturday on the Williamsburg waterfront. A motley 1 Zarzuela courtesy an d , ) crew of DIY'ers, artisanal producers, and New York I've been eating here for 18 years! It's my sch w en culinary heavyweights, make this place one of the neighborhood restaurant of choice—but also happens most vibrant stops on this list. Come hungry and pace to have made San Francisco's Top 100 for many years Spain, the restaurant is relaxed yet special. Sit at the Carroll Gardens neighborhood, this pie place puts out in a row. The are excellent, the prices are great, an i el yourself. Fried anchovies from Bon Chovie, brisket m uff i ns

open chef’s counter while savoring the razor clams ala some of the best thin crust pizzas around. This tiny ( new yoR k sandwich from Mile End, stewed collards from Taste and the service is like family. No rushing you out at plancha and fideos with chorizo for a wonderful vantage restaurant is straightforward and decidedly casual— of , papusas from Solber, trufa seca (dry- this place. I love the lamb chops, fideos, and the paella,

point of the convivial space. One of my favorite spots in BYOB, cash-only, with a limited menu of pizzas and d an d but you really can't go wrong here. 2000 Hyde Street;

) cured black truffle ) from Charlito’s Cocina,

Pilar Valdés of New York City's Kick- the city. 52 Irving Street, Manhattan; +1.212.253.2773; calzones—although Jay-Z and Beyoncé, who frequent chloe and doughnuts from Dough. Brooklyn Flea, +1.415.346.0800 shaw Cookery loves eating at the bar and casamononyc.com; [email protected] the restaurant, don’t seem to mind. 575 Henry Street, 45 Main St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; brooklynflea.com/ Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn; +1.718.858.4086 smorgasburg; [email protected] 2 Gary Danko with her hands—not usually, but occa- 3 Frej Nothing beats Gary Danko. You can choose three,

Due to the popularity of Noma in Denmark, j eann i e , four, or five courses off the menu any way you want. sionally at the same time. Here's her best 5 Maharlika FILIPINO MODERNO ) 10 Flushing, Queens Scandinavian and Scandinavian-influenced restaurants Making waves in the New York culinary scene is this Yes, you can have two of the same course, even Sm orgasburg This is an area that needs its own list of ten, but here

attempt at a well-rounded itinerary to help ( have flourished as of late. Located within restaurant which is turning updated Filipino classics dessert—three orders of chocolate soufflé, please!—if

you eat your way through the boroughs. the multi-purpose Kinfolk Studios, like sizzling and Eggs Imelda ( served m area you choose to. The service is exemplary and the ( this is a three-day-a-week pop-up with grilled and poached eggs) into food is heavenly. Bonus: everyone goes home with 1 Amor y Amargo restaurant that serves a five-course New York classics. 111 1st Avenue, Manhattan; a beautifully-wrapped piece of cake. Pricey but tasting menu for $45. Its skilled +1.646.392.7880; maharlikanyc.com; worth it for a special dinner. 800 N Point Street; New York is deep in its cocktail renaissance, and this k s fec little gem of a bar is a great place to take part. Come kitchen has found a wonderful [email protected] gl i c k sber +1.415.749.2060; garydanko.com with an open mind—no Mojitos here!—and be ready balance between food that is k ate to get your bitters education on. Try its daily 8-Bitters creative and unusual, and at the 6 Maison Premiere noah 3 Perbacco by sazerac, or its playful take on a Negroni using Smith same time delicious. 90 Wythe A raw bar and cocktail den with a by My favorite Italian restaurant in the city—this place is and Cross Rum. 443 East 6th Street, Manhattan; Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn; beautifully appointed space, replete buzzing during the week but more mellow on weekends. +1.212.614.6817; amoryamargo.com +1.347.799.2946; frejnyc. with an intimate, New Orleans-style It makes its own pastas and salumi. One of the things com; [email protected] garden out back. Do yourself a favor I enjoy with friends is that it offers a tasting of the 2 Casa Mono and skip the Malpeques and Beau pastas–so we can choose two or three and share them A Batali restaurant that is not Italian, this spot serves 4 Lucali soleils to make room for the more while enjoying our wine at the bar. 230 California Street; photographs some of the best Spanish food in the city. Much like in Located in the historic unusual oyster offerings. If Skookum photographs +1.415.955.0663; perbaccosf.com

4 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 5 A FINE SELECTION Brazil's sought-after picanhas; (below right) Michelin-starred restaurant Fat Duck's logo.

4 Park Tavern North Beach has come back to life! This is one of my favorite new(ish) additions. It's a beautiful restaurant and I can never resist the Marlowe burger–the chop, the deviled eggs, the Demons on Horseback (prawns wrapped in smoked lardo–hello?). Its Brussels sprouts chips are also must-trys. It's as much fun to sit at your reserved table as it is to walk in and take your chances at the communal table or at the bar. It's such a mixed crowd–even if you have to wait, the people watching alone will entertain you. 1652 Stockton Street; +1.415.989.7300; parktavernsf.com; [email protected]

5 Tony's Pizza Napoletana What can I say... It's worth the wait. Besides, you can BAY AREA BEST-SELLERS head to Tony Nik's a couple of doors over to have From top: Perbacco's raviolo; Batter a cocktail until they call you. Four different styles of Bakery's cookies; Casa de Empada's pizza in one place, my favorite is the award-winning Margherita, but I also love its spinach salad. Tony famous empadas. the-winding-road, cozy place serves hearty traditional himself is usually on hand to say hello. 1570 Stockton 4 Sawasdee This is where I run to when I want an Asian fix. The meals. I especially like the savory pastels and the infa- Street; +1.415.835.9888; tonyspizzanapoletana.com curries are tasty, and the excellent grilled duck mous bolinho de bacalau. Best to be there early on the weekend, as the place gets full quickly. Rua Paschoal 6 Lers Ros Thai breast with orange curry and mashed bananas or the fried eggplant covered with miso paste and Carlos Magno 99, Santa Teresa; +55.21.2221.9227 My favorite Thai restaurant. Go with a group so you sesame seeds are wonderfully comforting. 101-A can order a lot—the menu is like a novel, so large and São Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gávea 899; 8 Gero varied (it even has alligator). I usually go for the duck +55.21.3322.2150; sawasdee.com.br Having a meal at this restaurant's palm-lined terrace larb, frog's legs, and any of the soups to start. I always

) gives an apartment-dweller like myself a sense of have the deep fried trout with mango sauce, and the 10 Chubby Noodle dining in a home with a garden. The freshly made pork belly is absolutely delicious. 730 Larkin Street and 5 Pérgula Restaurant You wouldn't think that a restaurant in the back of a Considered Brazil's , is a pasta dishes and the osso buco are simply wonder- 307 Hayes Street; +1.415.931.6917, +1.415.874.9661 d uc k bar could possibly be any good—but, oh, it is! This slow-cooked of beans with salted pork or beef. ful. Avenida Érico Veríssimo, 190 Barra da Tijuca; (Hayes); lersros.com; [email protected] at spot is located inside Amante, a bar on Green Street F ( Experiencing it on a sunny day by the poolside at +55.21.3523.5700; fasano.com.br in North Beach. The pork belly fried rice has kimchi Copacabana Palace is simply glorious. This place has 7 Saigon Sandwiches Sugar Loaf, makes dining here an incredible experience. and a fried egg (I once ate an order of this and a magnificent spread of the multiple and side 9 Empada/Pao de Queijo A hole-in-the-wall in the Tenderloin–the line is Avenida Infante Dom Henrique S/N, Aterro do Flamengo; ATTS immediately ordered a second). The fried chicken, dishes of rice, farofa, orange slices, collard greens, My favorite among all the empadinha or empada London usually out the door but it goes quickly. Cheap +55.21.3461.9020; porcao.com.br spicy noodles, and ramen are all quite yummy. fried cassava, and pork rinds. I always start with the around, this savory mini-pie is filled with the tradi- (around $3) and good, the best banh mi I have had. So unexpected. 570 Green Street; +1.415.361.8850; tasty caldinho de feijao, a black bean soup served tional palmito (heart of palm). What is interesting is I usually go for the chicken or the roast pork, but it 2 Royal Grill Cherry Tantoco-Daniels has spent the thechubbynoodle.com sprinkled with bits of pork rind and spring onions. that you will always find one hidden in the center has several combos, so try all of them! I love to grab This spot serves the juiciest and most succulent picanhas last 19 years in Manila, the U.S., Malaysia, K ERY. BA BATTER After that comes a dizzying meal of indulgence. of this empada. I was told that this comes from the some on a nice day for a picnic. 560 Larkin Street; (the most sought-after meat in Brazil) that are grilled to Brazilians believe that washing it down with some Brazilian Portuguese expression colocar azeitona na +1.415.474.5698 perfection. I particularly enjoy them with the Brazilian and Singapore. She and husband Tim cachaça, caipirinha, or beer will help with digestion. empada do outro (“working for the glory of someone

fried rice arros maluco, which is prepared at your table W M ER PAL A. an d Daniels are serious about their wine and

R io de janeiR o ) Otherwise, a nap is recommended after the else”). Pão de queijo are Brazilian rolls made 8 Batter Bakery and served with freshly baked and steaming palm of feast. Copacabana Palace Hotel, Avenida from cassava starch and grated cheese. These are food—they store over 2,000 bottles of wine Cinnamon monkey bread, lavender sea salt shortbread, hearts doused with a buttery sauce with herbs. Having Atlântica 1702, Copacabana; +55.21.2548.7070; easily found everywhere, but I like the ones from Casa fig honey goat-cheese scones, and an ice cream A former textile designer at Anne Klein a nice caiparinha with this meal makes it the perfect in their London home, and once drove from copacabanapalace.com da Empada (Avenida das Américas, 4666 Loja 211 D; sandwich made with homemade ice cream between and Banana Republic in New York, Zaza weekend lunch. Avenida Ayrton Senna, 2150 Casa Belgium to France and back, just for dinner. P I CANHAS +55.21.2431.8151; casadaempada.com.br) and Casa two cookies. Open until 9 p.m. too, which makes Shopping, Barra da Tijuca; +55.21. 3325.6166 ( Olivares-Tosun now resides in Brazil do Pão de Queijo (Rua S Francisco, 236 Loja 427; it extra dangerous for your diet. 2127 Polk Street; 6 La Bicyclette We drive quite a distance for breakfast on most +55.21.2578.3172; casadopaodequeijo.com.br), whose 1 Durbar Tandoori Restaurant +1.415.706.8076; batterbakery.com, with her family. 3 Pastel de Queijo and Caldo de Cana Sunday mornings just to get a slice of Paris at shops are found citywide. Fans of Indian food love coming to London, and [email protected] at the Weekend Market SEPATO SEPATO O P. D O E D UAR BY A this charming cafe. My daughters cannot get tandoori chicken masala is the U.K.’s number one 1 Porcão A visit to any weekend market is not complete favorite dish. Ask any cab driver and he’ll probably tell COURTESY OF PERBACCO AN D PERBACCO OF COURTESY by enough of the pain au chocolat and buttery 10 Le Vin 9 Nopalito One of the first restaurants I tried in Rio and we still without having a pastel de queijo and caldo de cana. croissants! Rua Pacheco Leão, 320 Jardim Botânico; The signature French dishes are reliably delicious, but you that this Notting Hill award-winner beats the more Fantastic Mexican food—totopos con chili, the juicy keep going back. Serving the best Brazilian churrasco, The pastel is a fried, puffy, and crispy pastry shell with +55.21.3256.9052; labicyclette.com.br the shrimp risotto with arugula is my ultimate comfort famous curry houses of Brick Lane. The dishes are full carnitas, hand made tortillas, excellent margaritas, and a runny cheese filling, which can be as big as a baby's the endless parade of meat on giant , along food here. The assortment of breads is also equally of aromatic spices and rich , not just heat—the Mexican chocolate popsicles. The service is warm and pillow! Complete the treat with a glass of caldo de with the onslaught of side dishes and a huge buffet wonderful! Avenida das Américas, 4.666 Loja 152 , Lorient Special Chicken is a must. 24 Hereford friendly–I love coming here, even though it's a bit of of salads, is not for the faint diner. It's a chain of four cana, a greenish-yellow fresh sugar cane juice served 7 Bar do Mineira Situated in picturesque Santa Teresa, a haven for Boulevard Gourmet, Barra Shopping, Barra da Tijuca; Road, Paddington, London; +44.020.7727.1947; a trek. There's parking, which is important in this city. restaurants, but this particular branch, with its floor- with ice. My favorite stand is at the Friday market in graphs PHOTO D E M PA OF PHOTO graphs PHOTO artists and home of the last tram line, this small, off- +55. 21.2431.8898; levin.com.br durbartandoori.co.uk 306 Broderick Street; +1.415.437.0303; nopalitosf.com to-ceiling windows overlooking Guanabara Bay to the Barra Beach. Praia da Barra da Tijuca

6 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 7 2 Dinings Sushi and Japanese Tapas 6 Roka Melton Mowbray pork pies or mustard-slathered A series of cozy nooks in a rambling white cellar hidden Beautiful food, beautiful décor, beautiful people: all and sauerkraut, or just people watch off Edgeware Road, this intimate and unexpected polished driftwood and glass, this is the place to sip and enjoy the buzz? 8 Southwark Street, London; Japanese restaurant has some of the freshest sushi and cocktails and eat Japanese robatayaki. We like the +44.020.7407.1002; boroughmarket.org.uk; info@ sashimi available, as well as innovative hot and cold tapas grilled asparagus, spicy lamb cutlets, gindara, and boroughmarket.org.uk such as scallops with yuzu garlic chili soy and pork belly eggplant the most. Sit inside at the long sushi counter char sui. The service is wonderfully friendly but you’ll or outside under the heat lamps on Charlotte Street. 10 The Golden Hind have to book ahead to get a table. Get the special— Sip saketinis or shochu as the mood takes you. 37 If you’re in London, you simply must have fish and whatever it is! 22 Harcourt Street, London, Greater Charlotte Street; +44.020.7580.6464; chips. You could do a lot worse than this always-full London; +44.020.7723.0666; dinings.co.uk rokarestaurant.com; [email protected] diner at the top of Marylebone Lane. You can get your fish steamed with lemon and herbs, but the - 3 Galvin Bistrot de Luxe 7 Chez Marcelle real experience is battered and deep-fried, with a We love the casual elegance of this neighborhood Tucked away in Hammersmith behind Olympia, this mountain of chunky chips, liberally splashed with salt bistro. Classic French dishes like escargot and steak nondescript shop serves the most incredible and and malt , and a side of . Wash

tartare are excellent. We always have the endive and reasonably priced home-cooked Lebanese food. down with a mug of tea or a bottle of beer (but bring I SS PAT LA Roquefort salad to start, and love the floating islands Marcelle herself will probably greet you with a big your own, this restaurant is BYOB). 73 Marylebone for dessert. Also try the baba au rum, drowned in real friendly hug. For lovers of fattoush, tabbouleh, Lane, London; +44.020.7486.3644 .

rum right before your eyes. Reasonable corkage if you and moutabal. Great for vegetarians, but meat-eaters ) have that special bottle that needs just the right dish. must try the stuffed lamb rice. Finish with cardamom 66 Baker Street, Marylebone, London; coffee and baklava pastries. Not for the time-pressed +44.020.7935.4007; galvinrestaurants.com; as she’s a one-woman show, but each dish is well [email protected] worth the wait! 4 Blythe Road, London, Greater London; pa R is m ar k et +44.020.7603.3241 4 Lucali As Esquire ' resident food We think the crispy aromatic duck here beats any 8 The Fat Duck borough duck dish we’ve had in Hong Kong—or anywhere else! Consistently rated one of the top three restaurants and drink columnist, Erwan Heussaff ( Also try the famous lobster noodles at this easy-to- in the world, the Fat Duck is truly a one-of-a-kind is well-versed in all things gastronomic. find Chinese place, just across Hyde Park. Great for dining experience. Every dish is a piece of art, a piece Here, the French-Filipino triathlete family-style dining.14-16 Queensway, Paddington; of theater, and an adventure in taste. The “full English +44.020.7727.9012 breakfast” dessert with its bacon and egg ice cream shares his Parisian favorites. is famous, and a lot of fun. Go for the full tasting 5 Clarke's menu and get the matched wine pairings. It won’t 1 Café Breizh Modern English food at its best, this small, cozy be cheap—but it will be an experience that you’ll My usual final adieu before leaving Paris, especially if restaurant is great for its weekend champagne brunch remember for the rest of your life. High Street, Bray, I wasn’t able to visit the hometown of my father, the and used to be the regular haunt of the artist Lucien Berkshire; +44.016.2858.0333; thefatduck.co.uk port village of Douarnenez, at the tip of Brittany and Freud. Fresh-baked breads served along with the

a “country” on its own defined by stubborn people AN D LUXE, D E I STROT B I N GALV RO K A, OF COURTESY

finest quality organic ingredients sourced from British 9 with a penchant for good and masterfully LANG D ON BEN BY an d VES, Borough Market Ê growers are prepared simply and perfectly. For dinner, Every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday at Borough prepared crêpes. This is the only place in the world Cornish lemon sole and Norfolk asparagus are cooked Market is like an international food festival: Where whose attempt to recreate some of the best crêpes to utter perfection. 124 Kensington Church Street; else can you buy organic vegetables, gourmet baby in Brittany is a terrifying success. 109 Rue Vieille du +44.020.7221.9225; sallyclarke.com; food, sample stuffed and artisanal , Temple; +33.01.42.72.13.77; breizhcafe.com; ES R D ES ER I ES [email protected] pick wild and truffles, wolf down [email protected] graphs PHOTO

BON APPÉTIT Inside Paris' Pâtisseries des Rêves. Opposite, clockwise from top left: contemporary Japanese dishes and interiors from Roka; Galvin Bistrot de Luxe's escargot; La Pâtisseries des Rêves' gauffres; a cheese and deli stall at Borough Market.

8 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 9 CATALAN STYLE From top: Inside Barcelona favorite Cal Pep. Below: Cal Pep's bestselling chipirones con garbanzos; Celler Can Roca's wine cellar. Opposite: A crowded bar at Cal Pep; Restaurante Ribera- Manero's pulpo con patatas; La Colombe's tasting menu.

of discarded animal parts. Yes, you can find tasty offal the other side, the restaurant, which has no menu. The on all the bistros menus in France, but nowhere else owner's daughter tells you what the day's specials are— will you have a greater concentration of them in one mostly fresh fish—and chuleton is the specialty. Order carte. Go big or go back to Manila. 10 Rue Saint-Julien Txakoli, the white wine of the region—a great pairing le Pauvre; +33.01.46.33.98.80 for the pintxos. Calle Valencia, 169; +34.934.534.759

9 Les Crocs de l’Ogre 3 Paco Meralgo If Cebu has , France has cochon de lait. A This is a traditional tapas restaurant. No tables here, just throwback bistro with painted tiles and a menu that stools and small high tables. For lunch, it does different perfects a roster of the classics: cote de boeuf, terrines, kinds of paella, which you can order by small portions. bone marrow. The service gives you the chance to The tapas are very traditional but of the best-quality browse over and select your meat, making you feel ingredients. Reservations highly recommended. Calle you are talking not only to a chef but also to a skilled Muntaner, 171; +34.934.309.027; pacomeralgo.com butcher. If you have space for just one meat-sweat inducing dinner, choose the roasted and 4 Asador de Aranda 2 La PÂtisseries 5 LAUBERGE' D’Chez Eux roll on home when you’re done. 81 Avenue Bosquet; Another restaurant that has been open for ages, its des RÊves A typical South Western-style bistro, just better dressed. M BE COLO LA +33.01.45.56.96.29 specialties include 21-day-old lamb cooked in a brick Nothing evokes France better When you order the lobster bisque, you get not only oven. No need to say how good this is, you just have than streets littered with quaint your bowl filled to the brim, but also the casserole it was 10 Lao Lane Xang 2 to go. The lamb comes with typical starters like morcilla little bakeries and patisseries. cooked in, should you be hungry enough for seconds. You’ll probably call me crazy for putting a restaurant (), jamon, chorizo, and a fresh green This establishment turns the The hanging saucissons and smoked hams can also be that specializes in Vietnamese, Lao, and Cambodian salad. There are two in the city, but make sure to go to concept upside down and brought to your table for close inspection. 2 Avenue on this list, but trust me, it is one of the most the one in Tibidabo. The building where it is located is delivers both traditional and Lowendal; +33.01.47.05.52.55; chezeux.com authentic ones I’ve tried, and it would give a side amazing. Avenida del Tibidabo; +34.934.170.115; asa- modern . When you’re street eatery in Hanoi a run for its money. A winning dordearanda.com; [email protected] in town pick up the brioche and 6 Babylon Bis sign for a restaurant that doesn’t take reservations is the alliance, and then call me to You’ll be surrounded by dancing waiters and owners when people line up at the door, under the rain, in 5 Bar Pinotxo 8 Restaurante Ribera-Manero tell me how right I am. 111 Rue de vibing out to the reggae sounds on the speakers. All the hopes of scoring a table for the night. 102 Avenue An institution in Barcelona, this is located inside the This place is found inside a shopping mall called L’illa. Longchamp; +33.01.47.04.00.24; space needs is a beach to make you feel like you are on d'Ivry; +33.01.58.89.00.00; restolaolanexang.com Boqueria market of Ramblas. Just imagine all the fresh When I lived in Barcelona, we would have lunch here lapatisseriedesreves.com one of the islands of the Antilles in the eastern Caribbean food bought there and cooked right in front of you. every Saturday, no fail. A simple seafood restaurant

Sea. People come here for one thing: the braised chicken AN D PEP CAL OF COURTESY an d The owner, Juanito, is a character, as he entertains serving fresh seafood. Make sure to try the gambas ) 3 Le MarchÉ Couvert des with a side of white rice and four different types of everyone while you eat. Food is basic but very fresh. de Palamos, fideua and the navajas a la plancha (razor Enfants Rouges sauces. It’ll change your outlook on chicken forever. The baR celona Rambla de Sant Josep, 91; +34.933.171.731; clams). L'illa Diagonal, Avinguda Diagonal, 557; This is one of my favorite hangouts in Paris. restaurant opens at 8 p.m. and closes at 8 a.m., so you pinotxobar.com; [email protected] +34.933.300.303

It’s well hidden so you’ll need to look hard for can imagine how interesting the clientele can get. 34 Rue patatas

it. Once inside, you’ll find a low-ceiling covered Tiquetonne; +33.01.42.33.48.35 ROCA CAN CELLER Miguel Vecin is the vice-president 6 Celler Can Roca 9 Cal Pep

market with little stalls and high stools where you can con for Europe of cargo company LBC, Next to , this would probably be one of my Stay at the bar or book a table in advance because eat a warm lamb tagine, select a well-sourced bottle 7 Frenchie and has spent over 20 years of his life best dining experiences ever. This three-star Michelin it is always full, but if you love seafood, a visit here of red for the night, and a bouquet of flowers for This used to be a best-kept secret. Today, a table restaurant, located an hour and a half away from is a must. There is no menu here, just whatever the pulpo

( in Spain. that special someone. 39 Rue de Bretagne; here needs to be booked way in advance, so I suggest Barcelona, is managed by three brothers: the chef, waiter recommends or whatever you like at the bar. Its +33.01.40.11.20.40 making it even before taking your flight. The food is the sommelier, and the pastry chef. Very creative and specialties are mostly seafood, so I recommend that market-fresh and sets the tone for the neo bistros, 1 Bar Tomas complex dishes come out from this kitchen, some of you just let the waiter suggest what is fresh that day. 4 Semilla and is prepared by a rising superstar in the Parisian i n vec This hole-in-a-wall bar is tucked away in a residential them mind-blowing. Can Sunyer, 48 +34.972.222.157; Plaça de les Olles, 8; +34.933.107.961; calpep.com; Headed by an American, a New Zealander, and a culinary scene: Gregory Marchand. If you can’t score a area called Sarrià. It's been open for at least 40 years cellercanroca.com; [email protected] [email protected] kitchen team made up of graduates from one of reservation, try the wine bar under the same name, right and serves the best , which is actually

the most reputable cooking schools in the country across the street—they, on the other hand, don’t accept mi guel the only thing they serve apart from a few small tapas 7 Cinc Sentits 10 Tapas 24 (read, the world: L’Ecole Ferrandi). The food is reservations, so you might get lucky. 5-6 Rue du Nil; of anchovies and . Don't forget to have The chef/owner of this one-star Michelin restaurant is a

COURTESY OF CAL PEP AN D PEP CAL OF COURTESY by Operated by Carles Abellan, this place is not a typical contemporary French, served on small sharing +33.01.40.39.96.19; frenchie-restaurant.com a cold beer. Mayor de Sarriá, 49, 08017 Barcelona; Canadian-Catalan who quit his job in Canada and came tapas joint; more intricate, modern tapas are served. plates, and set in a space that doesn’t take itself too +34.932.031.077 back to town to pursue his dream. Meals are meant Service is excellent and top ingredients are used. If seriously but has an understated refinement to it. You 8 Le Ribouledingue to tickle your five senses, which he achieves with his you go early, you should be able to get a table. Try will step out with a buzz from the well-selected wines I find comfort in the uncommon. One of my favorite 2 Taktika Berri contemporary cooking. The cuisine here is quite creative their signature chocolate dessert, served with extra and on a high of fantastic cooking. Call way ahead. groups of ingredients to use in cooking, when treated This is easily the best Basque in town. On one side it's while respecting the local produce. Carrer d'Aribau, 58; virgin and Maldon salt. Diputació, 269; +34. graphs PHOTO 54 Rue de Seine; +33.01.43.54.34.50 and prepared properly, is offal, and this is the temple graphs PHOTO a typical Basque bar serving freshly made pintxos. On +34.933.239.490; cincsentits.com; [email protected] 934.880.977; carlesabellan.com; [email protected]

november 2 0 1 2 | 11 12 |Town&Count ry Benjamin Seck;insideSingapore's True Blue. by Chef Chef Graff Estate. by Opposite: Hgohhiang an Asian Fusion-inspired dish at Delaire Delaire at dish Fusion-inspired Asian an Babel Restaurant's seasonal salad; salad; seasonal Restaurant's Babel MELTING POT to several fresh food markets whichcome alive Sat cakes! Cape Town andtheCape Winelands are home the fresh buffalo mozzarella,all thelocaland paella, the sandwiches, belly pork and steak the are favorites is afavorite of allourlocal Capetonian friends. My and traders local 100 over features this area, stock Held at theOldBiscuitMillinbohemianWood- 1 MARKET owns the luxury adventure travel group Asia

"Lit" Cortes leftbanking and moved with Lehman Brothers and then Nomura, Jose WOO his wife Kitty to Cape Town. He now co- At the peak of hiscareer,At the peakof this veteran of to Africa Safaris with his good friend, DS cape town TOCK Victor Dizon.

NEIGHBOURGOO DS -

3 food; [email protected] Winelands; +27.021863.3852;babylonstoren.com/ Cape Paarl, and Franschhoek between Valley Drakenstein there. meal a after garden the walking hours of couple a spend We usually fresh. picked colors, those in gies a green, red, andyellow saladfeaturing fruitsandveg - offered it summer last and season the of color the flect fruit, vegetable, andherbgarden. Itssaladsalways re- eight-acre its from fresh produce its gets spot This 2 neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za Town; +27.082.370.4075; Cape Road, Albert 375 Saturday. one least at with coincide to visits your time few—so a name to Durbanville and Constantia, Bay, Hout Franschhoek, Stellenbosch, mornings—in urday at right in the heart of Franschhoek, the gastronomic gastronomic the Franschhoek, of heart the in right tasting menuandyou won't be disappointed. Itissetsurprise African-inspired the for Ask Africa. of all in restaurants best the of one is this Janse, Margot Chef Thanks to multi-awarded Relais &Chateaux Grande BABEL AT BABYLONSTOREN THE LE Q

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PHOTOgraphs COURTESY OF TRUE BLUE , La Colombe's Africa'sSouth Rossouw’s Colombe's Restaurantin La Guide, rating three-star consistent a with and restaurant Top 50 Pellegrino San Another to. place from the hundredsrate of peopleIhave recommended this satisfaction 100-percent a have must This 6 [email protected] +27.021.863.5100; granderoche.co.za/dining.html; meal here. Plantasie Street, Paarl, Cape Winelands; mediocre a have to yet have I visits, several after and mountains from theterrace. Itsservice istop notch, Drakenstein the of view majestic a with and vines cient beneath thedomeof Paarl Rock surrounded by an- just magical, is setting Its Roche. Grand the at taurant byRun chef Roland Gorgosilich, thisisthemainres- 5 95keerom.com; [email protected] Town; Cape Bowl, +27.021.422.0765; Street,City om debeest carpaccio andtheSpringbokcasserole. 95Keer raw andcooked carpaccio. Myfavorite istheBlackWil- of list extensive an with cuisine Milanese serving while night each table every at guests with tochat point a it Town. Cape Navamakes restaurantin Giorgio ian Chef Africa's Company Gardens, thisisarguably thebest Ital- Housed intheoldstables andslaves’ quarters of South 4 lqf.co.za; [email protected] Cape Winelands, Western Cape; +27.021.876.2151; Franschhoek, Streets, Wilhelmina and capital.Berg Corner BOSMAN'sat GRANDEROCHE 95 LA KEERO

COLO M M BE - la-motte.com; [email protected] Main Road, Franschhoek +27.021.876.8000; La Motte alsomakes several award-winning wines.R45 palate. modern the for Erasmus Chris chef by modified first European settlers inthe Cape inthelate 1600s, the by recipes on based is cuisine its Pierneef, Hendrik Jacob artist African South famous the after Named [email protected] Cape; +27.021.883.2187;paindevie.co.za; Western Stellenbosch, 7600 building, Bank Oude Street, honey, andNamibianbiltongChurch (meat jerky). 7 gum blue with sourdough chocolate and rye dark his are favorites York. My New in WestVillage ’90s early circa old the even or Vienna, or Prague to you transports and rustic, and fresh is bakery The making. baker FritzSchoonistheundisputed kingof bread - that agrees everyone ago, years three opening Since hands down, thebest artisanbread place intheCape. is, It Africa. South in regions wine top the of one as well as town university bustling a Stellenbosch, central in is this Africa, South in bistro favorite Kitty's wife My 7 8 tia-uitsig.com; [email protected] River Road, Constantia; +27.021.794.6500,constan- Spaanschemat Uitsig, and other delicioustreats. Constantia marshmallows, cognac macarons, violet rolls, with , steamed langoustines, foie grasoysters andquince includes which Menu for Gourmand Go the Asian. meets French contemporary is cuisine D PIERNEEFat LAMOTTE E

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Airport Road dig into thefabulous chilicrab, rojak andsatay. out, noodled are you when And fried Hokkienmee. for thenoodle whore–try thelormee,wantonand mee , nirvana is This Singapore. in center hawker best the as regard many what to here flock know the in those But Not many peopleventure to thisout-of-the-way place. 2 seafood in town—and crab tastiest and freshest the is get you All Nazi! seafood and you have nosay inwhat you order—the chef isthe refrigeration, no airconditioning, no ambience, no has place The birthday. 40th my for Seetoh KF guru food Singaporean by place roadside this to brought was I 1 10 ROUNDHOUSE +27.021.885.8160; delaire.co.za; [email protected] Stellenbosch; Pass, fewHelshoogte bottles of wine.R310, estate a after the at shop diamond the by swings one if expensive extremely be can here beef rendangMeals . dishes suchaschicken and lataing , tunalaksaduck , ponzu chine, housedonthesameestate, serves Asian-inspired shortrib andporkshoulder. Itssister restaurant Indo- artifacts andartwork. Myfavorites are themalt-glazed houses Graff's extensive personalcollection of African it art, contemporary African South for centers leading the of postcard. One a like much stunning, estate is the Diamonds, Graff of Graff Laurence of Brainchild 9 D Road, Singapore; +65.6744.9755 taurant.com; [email protected] Bay, Cape Town; +27.021.438.4347;theroundhouseres - menu that includesgourmet pizza. TheGlen,Camps the outdoor terrace, called hasarelaxed Rumbullion, and dishes, more try to want you if menu tasting a has It range. mountain Twelve Apostles the and Ocean tic You have 360-degree views of Camps Bay,time. the theAtlan of - percent 90 is day—which blue-sky sunny a on especially beat, be can't here from views The Victor to Asia Africa Dizon, co-founder of OldAirport R SinHuat Safaris, haspreviously lived inHong Kong, London, and New York. He hasbeen based ELAIRE singapoR

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E S TATE bee hoon to die for. |13 2 1 0 november 2 e

19 Old Old 19 Geylang 3 Hup Kee Fried Oyster taste of the food at such a high level. If only there I am a sucker for oysters, and this is my were more chains like this, then maybe I wouldn’t need when I get back from a trip and want a taste of Singa- to travel as much to eat anymore. Sentosa Gateway, pore with a dollop of chili sauce, washed down with a Resorts World Sentosa; +65.6577.7888; rwsentosa.com; cold Tiger beer. This true hawker master justifies making [email protected] the trip to the otherwise tourist trap that is Newton Circus hawker center. 500 Clemenceau Avenue North, 9 Shinji #01-73 Newton Circus Food Centre After dining at a number of the top sushi bars in To- kyo, I fell in love with the two-Michelin starred Kane- 4 True Blue saka Sushi in Ginza and have become a regular. I was Truly authentic . No punches pulled ecstatic when they opened a branch in Singapore. Try on the spices, so get ready for a wild ride across the its shiro ebi when in season, and you will be magically flavor spectrum. Set in a lovely old shophouse, which transported to Tokyo for less than the cost of an air and its signature Zuma Baikingu brunch on weekends. feels like you are dining in an old nonya’s family home. ticket. Branches at Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road and OUE The brunch offers an endless selection of izakaya Owned and run by one of the leading Perana- Tower, 60 Collyer Quay; +65.6338. 6131; shinjibykane- dishes piping hot from the charcoal grills and sushi bar kan culinary families in town. 49 Armenian Street; saka.com; [email protected] offerings served on a granite countertop in front of +65.6440.0449; truebluecuisine.com; the massive open kitchen, and includes free-flowing [email protected] 10 Yakiniku Yazawa Perrier Jouet bellinis and Zuma’s own sake. An indulgent Wagyu beef. That’s all there is to this place, pure and weekend experience at one of HK’s most stylish restau- 5 Lei Garden simple. You choose the cuts and seasoning you want rants (oh, weekday lunches and dinners are excellent Brunch here with family and friends is such a part of and cook it yourself. When you can’t handle any more too!) 15 Queen's Road West, The Landmark, Central; our Sunday routine that it feels like an extension of beef, go for the tontoro (pork cheek) for a change of +852.3657.6388; zumarestaurant.com home. My son loves having its fried rice and watching pace. A big bottle of sake with quality Japanese meats— it doesn’t get any better than this. 11 Unity Street, T H E the fish in the aquarium, but hasn’t yet acquired his 3 ONE HARBOUR ROAD father’s fondness for the endless variety of delectable Robertson Walk; +65.6235.2941; yazawameat.com With ambience as impeccable as the service, this is of ) steamed dumplings and succulent roast meats. He will my favorite fancy Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong. get there eventually. 30 Victoria Street; The food is straightforward Cantonese with the best +65.6339.3822; leigarden.hk; [email protected] Peking duck in town. And ask for the Hangzhou-

CH I C K EN hong K ong style crispy eel cooked in honey (it’s not on the courtesy 6 Bistrot du Sommelier menu)! Grand Hyatt, Wanchai, 1 Harbour Road; d A tiny rustic French gem in the heart of the city that +852.2588.1234; hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com

an Barbee Bartolome-Chuidian retired

, serves hearty, unpretentious French bistro fare, includ- S M O K E D ) ( ing what I believe is the best steak in Singapore, and a from banking in 2010 to look after her most 4 MAXIM’S PALACE CITY HALL pretty mean , which made me fall in love with important clients: her three children. She has For me, the best dim sum experience is one where the the place. It is co-owned by an award-winning som- food is peddled to me on a food cart that’s heaped melier and a chef, which makes for a marriage made lived in Hong Kong for the last 14 years. with steaming baskets of my favorite yum cha delights in D B I R YAR ( in dining heaven. 53 Armenian Street; +65.6333.1982; a bustling atmosphere of noise and clatter. True to the lebistrotdusommelier.com 1 L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON hallmark of good , freshness reigns From the minute you step onto the escalator that supreme in the cart offerings. Key to the fun is excitedly 7 Osteria Mozza will take you up to this gastronomic mecca, you are anticipating what steaming delight will parade by your ta- There are loads of Italian restaurants here, but when it in for an experience of a lifetime. This is fine dining ble next–a fun dim sum experience where locals mix with comes down to taste, nothing can touch Mario Batali’s unlike any other—sitting on the bar overlooking the tourists! City Hall Low Block, Central; +852.2521.1303; amazing pasta creations. Our shared love for offal open kitchen—even the movements of the chefs seem maxconcepts.com.hk D ROA HARBOUR ONE an d ) makes him a champion in my book. Combine this with a choreographed! The food that comes out of the world-class Italian wine list, and you have the best Ital- kitchen is unsurprisingly excellent. And, as the one 5 ABC KITCHEN ian restaurant in town. Now if they could only get out of and only Michelin-starred restaurant on my list, this The top floor of a municipal building that houses a that blasted casino... 2 Bayfront Avenue, The Shoppes at wet market is an unlikely place to find spectacular CHAEL LANG LANG MI CHAEL J ASON BY is a food experience that is worthy of the grandest Marina Bay Sands; +65.6688.8522; pizzeriamozza.com celebration. Shop 315 & 401, The Landmark, Central; food, but the ABC Kitchen (actually an Italian eatery FLAVORS OF THE ORIENT BEEF ROAST ( +852.2166.9000; robuchon.hk with an eclectic menu) is where I discovered the best Dim sum combination at One Harbour Road. 8 L’atelier de JoËl Robuchon suckling pig ever! This food stall stands above the rest D ROA HARBOUR ONE OF COURTESY Opposite, from left: Uncooked Korean fried After eating at several L’ateliers around the globe, 2 ZUMA in this bustling market, as it is the only one with table- cauliflower and fried rice at Yardbird; I have newfound respect for chain restaurants. It’s Modern Japanese in a very cool space; gorgeous bar, cloths, glass pitchers, and cutlery on the table. The roast prime rib of beef at the Chinnery; crispy tea- NNERY CH I NNERY photo graphs PHOTO amazing how Robuchon can maintain the quality and breathtaking dining room with double-height ceilings owners at this food stall were former chefs of an old smoked chicken at One Harbour Road.

14 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 15 loST IN DEGUSTATION Grilled Japanese beef at Shunbou. Opposite, from left: Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon; fresh meat at Sazanka; fresh octopus at Tsukiji Fish Market.

HK institution, M at the Fringe. A must-visit adven- smelling like garlic all night long, this is the place to go and-wife team and traces its roots back to 1917. Try ture for lechon lovers! Shop 7, Queen Street Cooked for crabs and razor clams. The typhoon shelter-style to get seating at the sushi bar, and then go for the Food Market, Sheung Wan; +852.9278. 8227 crabs come served on a platter heaping with spicy fried various types of toro. 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo; garlic. Dig in, order a bottle of Tsing Tao beer and +81.3.3402.4116; roppongifukuzushi.com 6 BUTAO RAMEN you’re in for a crab meal you’ll never forget. 421-429, Butao is the most memorable ramen experience for Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, +852.2834.6818, 5 New York Grill me anywhere outside Japan. The traditional ramen, +852.2573.7698; underspicycrab.com World-famous and deservedly so, the restaurant oc- called Butao King, rivals the best I’ve had in Japan. cupies the 52nd floor of the Shinjuku Park Tower, and Butao has three other adventurous offerings on its the views, by night or day, are breathtaking. As an al- menu which add layers of taste experiences on top of ternative to a formal dinner, the Sunday brunches are the traditional creamy pork broth! A ramen experience ToK yo a special treat, and the clean air makes it a spectacular worth queuing up for… bring a copy of T&C while vantage point for the skyline, the parks, and the Impe- waiting. Wo On Building, 8-13 Lane Street, Lan Kwai rial Palace. Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Fong, Central; +852.2530. 0600 Carlos "Pop" Mañalac has lived in Shinjuku-Ku; +81.3.5323.3458, [email protected] and out of New York, Hong Kong, Bang- 7 THE CHINNERY kok, and Tokyo. Here, he writes about his 6 Il Mulino Tokyo This is the place to go for traditional British fare, good A sister to one of New York City’s most famous res- curry, and the best prime rib in Hong Kong! Tucked in favorites in the Japanese capital, where taurants, this is New York Italian in the heart of Tokyo, a small corner of the Mandarin Oriental, this classic he lived for five years. and the dining experience is at par with its more famous bar was fashioned like a gentleman’s club of the British sister. For a more intimate evening or after dinner colonial era—think mahogany paneling, leather arm- 1 Tsukiji Fish Market drinks, the lounge area serves most of the menu items in chairs, and understated elegance. There’s something If I had to choose one meal experience in this city, a smaller, cozier setting. Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori, Rop- fun about being a girl digging into hearty pub grub in Tsukiji’s early morning experience has it all—the (very!) pongi Hills; +81.3.5786.0337; ilmulino.com/tokyo.php what used to be a men’s only establishment. Mandarin early morning fish auction, the sights and sounds of Oriental Hotel, Central; +852.2825.4009; one of the world’s busiest markets, and the freshest 7 Sazanka Teppanyaki mandarinoriental.com/hongkong sushi/sashimi at a fraction of the price of Ginza just a At the Okura Hotel Tokyo is a teppanyaki tradi- few short blocks away. The Japanese like to say that tion. The beef and seafood have been consistently 8 YARDBIRD sushi/sashimi has to be eaten no more than 30 minutes top-grade over many decades, and the set menus A Japanese gastropub that pays homage to the after being cut from the fish, and this is the place to carefully thought out. The mixed clientele is an humble yardbird (read: chicken) on an unassuming do just that. 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Tokyo; +81.3.3542.1111; interesting plus—locals, expatriates, tourists, and the location. Walking into the restaurant, you are greeted tsukiji-market.or.jp occasional businessman with his niece. Hotel Okura by a standing-room-only bar that will remind you of Tokyo 11F, Main Building, 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku; Sydney or San Francisco. The Yardbird Caesar, the 2 Shunbou at the Grand Hyatt +81.3.3505.6071; hotelokura.co.jp corn tempura, and the KFC (Korean Fried Cauliflower), A personal favorite, this gem specializes in the re- downed with artisanal Japanese beers make this a gional and seasonal dishes of Japan. The menu is com- 8 Katsukobowako fun dining experience. 33 Bridges Street, Sheung Wan; plex, comprehensive, and ideal if you want to sample A small restaurant in the Metro Hat building, this spot +852.2547.9273; yardbirdrestaurant.com; the breadth of with only a short stay specializes in tonkatsu from carefully chosen and bred [email protected] in the capital. Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Japanese pork. The tonkatsu is served as full meals, with Minato-Ku, Tokyo; +81.3.4333.8766; tokyo.grand.hyatt. unlimited salad and rice. The price is modest; the meal, 9 ONE-THIRTY ONE com; [email protected] not so. B2/F Metro Hat/Hollywood Plaza, Roppongi Hills, This charming village house with a seafront garden is Minato-ku; +81.3.5770.6550; roppongihills.com 30 minutes from Central and is an excellent venue to 3 CHÂTEAU RESTAURANT JOËL ROBUCHON J OEL ROBUCHON), RESTAURANT ÂTEAU celebrate on a sunny relaxed afternoon! This 25-seat 9 Tempura Mikawa

At the other end of the scale from Tsukiji Market is CH restaurant is in a converted village house overlooking Robuchon’s Tokyo Château, impressive in its own “Ver- This place is well-known among those who have the beautiful islands of Sai Kung. The chef serves a sailles” setting, with the flair and formality of proper sought the perfect tempura. The menu choices are lim- fixed menu of seasonal and thoughtful French food French dining. The wine list is as extensive as one would ited by design—a very small number of set meals, one that changes monthly. Chef Caith Chow was one of expect. But what distinguishes Château from other choice for warm sake, one choice for cold, and one the founding chefs of the Krug Room, the private Robuchon establishments is the blend of continental choice for beer. Sit back and enjoy a tempura course kitchen dining room of the Mandarin Oriental. An dining with the Japanese obsession for quality and meal unfold in front of you, as it was intended. 3-4-7 out of town trip to One-Thirty One is worth making. detail. Yebisu Garden Place, 1-13-1 Mita, Meguro-ku; Nihonbashi Kayabacho; +81.3.3664.9843 BY STÉFAN LE ( D U STÉFAN BY 131 Tseng Tau Village, Shap Sze Heung, New Territories, +81.3.5424.1347; robuchon.jp Kowloon; +852.2791.2684; one-thirtyone.com; 10 Any of the many small noodle or [email protected] 4 RopPongi Fukuzushi grill places that abound in the city Just a few short blocks away from the main intersection Surprise yourself. Just enter the wooden doors or even 10 UNDER BRIDGE SPICY CRAB at Roppongi dori—arguably the epicenter of Tokyo cloth partitions, and enjoy a bowl of noodles or grilled If you’re willing to get your hands dirty and don’t mind nightlife—this restaurant is run by a friendly husband- chicken. Simple, perfect, Japanese. graphs PHOTO SHUNBOU. OF COURTESY PHOTO KI ( M EAT) K A TEPPANYA OF SAZAN AN D COURTESY (OCTOPUS) HU TOTYA

16 | Town&Country november 2 0 1 2 | 17