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An Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute FEATURE ARTICLES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES The North Seattle Community College WOSTEP Program, 6 AWl, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 By Chip Lim Phone: Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 The Levers of American Striking Movements, Part 10 12 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org Office Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) By David J. LaBounty Closed National Holidays Screw Slot Dresser, By Jason Bird 20 Donna K. Baas: Managing Editor, Advertising Manager Lexicon of Watchmaker Terminology, By John Crabtree Katherine J. Ortt: Associate Editor, Layout/Design Associate 24 James E. Lubic, CMW: Executive Director & Divide and Conquer, By Laurie Penman 32 Education & Technical Director Lucy Fuleki: Assistant Executive Director Thomas J. Pack, CPA: Finance Director COLUMNS Laurie Penman: Clock Instructor Nancy L. Wellmann: Education Coordinator The Modern German Clock Movement, By Mark Butterworth 18 Sharon McManus: Membership Coordinator Part 39, Just the FAQ's Ma'am Mary Huff: Shipping Coordinator Heather Kyde: Receptionist/Secretary As A Clockmaker Turns, By J. M. Huckabee 28 Steve Jones: Audiovisual Manager Gary Richards: AWl-ELM Trust Development Director The Clockmaker and His Lathe, Part 5

HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITIEE James Sadilek: Chairman Lloyd Lehn, CC DEPARTMENTS Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW President's Message, By Jack Kurdzionak 2 Robert D. Porter, CMW Frank Poye, CW Executive Director's Message, By James E. Lubic 2 AWl OFFICERS Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 Jack Kurdzionak, CW: President Jim Door: First Vice President From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 34 Frank Poye, CW: Second Vice President Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Secretary Bulletin Board 37 Mark Butterworth: Treasurer Member Benefit Spotlight, By Lucy Fuleki 38 AWl DIRECTORS AWl-ELM Trust Update, By Gary Richards Henry Frystak, CMW 40 Robert D. Porter, CMW Industry News 42 James Sadilek Dennis Warner Classified Advertising 44 Manuel Jean Yazijian James K. Zimmerman, CMW, CMC, CMEW Advertisers' Index 48 Glenn D. Gardner: Affiliate Chapter Director AWl Employee Directory Joseph Juaire: Research & Education Council Director 48 Tony Riggio, CMW: Industry Advisory Board Director

IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT Robert D. Porter, CMW EDUCATION AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair FELLOW· American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 43 Robert F. Bishop ·Harold J. Herman James H. Broughton J.M. Huckabee Fred S. Burckhardt Gerald G. Jaeger SPECIAL INTEREST David A. Christianson Benjamin Matz George Daniels Robert A. Nelson AWl-ELM Trust Battery Recycling Program Discontinued 17 Wes Door ·Hamilton E. Pease ·Henry B. Fried Archie B. Perkins Seeking Candidates for the AWl Board of Directors 27 Josephine F. Hagans William 0. Smith, Jr. ·Orville R. Hagans Milton C. Stevens AWl Health & Benefit Solution Program 36 Ewell D. Hartman ·Marvin E. Whitney 'Deceased AWl Logo Merchandise 41

Reprinling and reprOO.iction is prolibited without written permission from the Ameri­ can Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute. Copyright @2003 by the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute.

HCV'nOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO t45-95461 !s ~ rrati,' am~ 17)' lhe America:= ~. 701 Ennl!prise Dril'n.lfan'Ooo. OH 45000-1696. Sub-- ~ 1or toe pj)llcsS74.oo per)'!llf(S6..50 per rorm.MrJnbas ~ 1s s:noo . is OiJded IIWialnJal clocks, has not yet become a target of mega sized retailers and category killers. That is not to say we have not faced some difficult challenges. We struggled in the past to accommo­ date massive changes in our industry, but we have survived and prospered. There were times in the 1970s that watch and clock makers were told, "Retrain now for a new career. The electronic timepiece will never need repair. All watches and clocks will be disposable." Many did leave the profession while others retired, and not too many people chose horology as a career. The future just didn't look too bright. Those dark days are in the past. The supply of qualified horologists cannot meet the demand and quality timepieces are selling well. Yes, the mega stores sell low cost timepieces by the hundred millions, but we have shifted our focus away from these, which cannot be profitably repaired, to focus on higher quality products which we can proudly sell and repair. Hardware store owners, who are going to survive, are now adapting to the current business environment. The local store owner explained that he and his partners, his father and brother, had recently made changes in their family owned and operated business to survive the onslaught of two major hardware chains and a mega retailer, all recently opening within a few miles of their neighborhood hardware store. They are now selling several lines of quality power tools not available in the major chain stores. In addition, they have opened a workshop in the back of the store to service the power tools they sell. They still sell the usual items found in hardware stores, but they are also offering what their competitors cannot. That is SERVICE. Horologists survive by providing high quality service and not trying to compete with the big stores. Other small businesses are learning what we learned a few decades ago. Is this survival instinct in the horologist's personality? I can't say, but I can tell you that the father in this hardware store business studied watch repair and worked in his family's jewelry store briefly after World War II. He believed there was no future in jewelry; hence he opened a hardware store. Executive Director's Message James E. Lubic, CMW The AWI ELM -Charitable Trust needs your support. I'm sure you have seen the messages in recent issues oftheHTfrom the Trust's Director of Development, Gary Richards. Gary is the sole employee of the Trust. His responsibilities are fund raising, grant writing and general public rela­ tions as it pertains to the Education, Library, and Museum (ELM) Charitable Trust. Gary's position is very important to the future success of not only the ELM Trust, but also to the AWI. When Gary gives a tour of our museum, writes a grant that is successfully received, or receives any kind of funds through donation, not only does the Trust benefit, but so does AWL Educating the public about watches and clocks, watchmakers and clockmakers is the main mission of the ELM Trust. This educating of the public also benefits you as a member of AWL Through Gary's efforts the public learns more about how unique you, as a watchmaker or clockmaker, are. They learn about the need for qualified watchmakers and clockmakers. They also learn that our trade is not the proverbial "dying trade" or "lost art", but that it is alive and prosper­ ing, and that there is a real need for more people to get the proper education/training in order to enter our profession and become successful. Grants are submitted to various foundations with all this in mind. Ultimately when grants are received this also benefits you as an AWl member in several ways, as a portion of these funds eventually come to AWl as revenue for expanded education programs. My point is that in order for us to see the benefit of having a Director of Development, the ELM Charitable Trust needs your support. When you are returning your AWl 2004 dues renewal consider a donation to the ELM Trust. Better yet, become a Friend of the Trust for $25 per year. You will receive a quarterly newsletter with all the news from the museum and library. The quarterly newsletter also has a feature article on a different museum piece every issue. There are four levels of annual participation. You can be a "Friend of the Trust" for $25 per year, a "Supportive Friend" for $50, a "Sustaining Friend" for $100, or a "Patron" for $1000. It doesn't matter what level you participate at as long as you participate. Help us reach our goal of making 2000 new "Friends" this year. I think you will be glad you did. If you have any questions about the role the ELM Charitable Trust plays in our future, or about the membership categories feel free to contact Gary Richards at extension 315 or e-mail him at [email protected].

2 Horological Times • November 2003 It's an Open and Shut Case! Bergeon Opener to fit Rolex* Cases Famous Bergeon quality. Includes six dies. eo• Everyday low price $1 I 9.00 NOW ONLY $105.95 0

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Phone:419-243-3720 800-472-0200 800-537-0343 Wm. S.• McCaw Company Fax: 419-243-0321 Since 1913 800-245-6481 1722 Madison Avenue [email protected] Toledo, Ohio 43624 Questions & Answers

Question one of the few American manufactur­ retailers, wholesalers and jobbers. He Can you please provide any in­ ers who used a pressed in balance jewel shows illustrations of 12 different Tren­ formation on this Illinois Watch Case setting. ton movements, none of which look Co. watch? Very little has been published like yours. However, he does list the Mark Woodmn, Hazelwood, Missouri about the Trenton Watch Company of Illinois Watch Case Co. as using a Trenton, New Jersey, successor to the 16/size "second model" Trenton move­ Answer New Haven Watch Company. Trenton ment, but he doesn't show an illustra­ produced low- and medium-grade tion of that "second model." At first glance your Illinois watches from 1887 through 1907, The E&J Swigart Company of Watch Case Co. watch looks like it has when they failed. The Ingersoll Broth­ Cincinnati showed your movement in a Swiss-made movement. But it also 2 ers purchased the company out of their 1905 material catalogue , where has a remarkable resemblance to a bankruptcy in 1908 and operated it as they comment, "This material is also 16/size Waltham model1888, but with­ the Ingersoll-Trenton Watch Factory used in Illinois Watch Case Co. move­ out the balance jewel setting screws until1921. ments." Roy Ehrhardt3 also shows a typically found in watches of Ameri­ The only attempt at putting to­ copy of an advertisement that appeared can manufacture. gether a comprehensive listing of Tren­ in 1902 to 1905 magazines where your The absence of balance jewel ton watch models was done by Donald movement is identified as a model setting screws certainly pointed to a Summar ofPennsylvania1• His prelimi­ #200. This model #200 was marketed Swiss origin, but if it were American, nary research was published in June of by Trenton as their "Reliance" mode I reasoned that it possibly could be a 1980, where he listed 90 names found and their "Advance" model. Trenton watch, because Trenton was on watches made by Trenton. Most of From this information, we these were trade names and house know that the same model #200 move­ brands and trademarks of various ment that Trenton used for their "Reli­ ance" and "Advance" models was used by the Illinois Watch Case Company. 1/1 The movement was made in their New I Jersey factory between 1902 and 1907 when the Trenton Watch factory was closed. David Christianson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Technical Editor

References 1. Summar, Donald J., "The Trenton Watch Company's Models and Grades: A Tentative Identification Guide." NAWCC Bulletin, June 1980. National Association of Watch & Clock Collec­ tors, Columbia, PA.

2. E&J Swigart Company, Jewelers Supplies and Optical Goods. 1905. Cincinnati, OH

3. Ehrhardt, Roy, American Pocket Watch Identification and Price Guide. 1974. Page 134. Heart of America Press, Kansas City, MO. 0

4 Horological Times • November 2003 We Won't Brag About Our Ne-w Catalog. (We'll Let Our Customers Do It For Us).

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Jules Borel & Company Order Desk: 1-800-776-6858 Order Fax: 1-800-776-6862 j u lesborel.com/awi The North Seattle Community College WOSTEP Program By Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW Photos by Chip Lim

Contrary to popular belief, the double feature is not yet extinct. . . Consistent with a paradigm of "more bang for the buck," this month's visit to Jet City (Seattle, WA) and the Watch Technology Institute (WTI) at North Seattle Community College (NSCC) is dual facetted. In addition to a profile of their 3000-hour Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP) watchmaker training program, the HT was fortunate to meet with recently retired director of WOSTEP, Antoine Simonin, who was also on a visit to NSCC, and ruminate upon his life in horology-past, present, and future. After twenty-seven years as the director of Watch Technology Institute campus sign WOSTEP, Antoine (Tony) Simonin retired this August. Given the chance, he says that he would do it all over again ... That's not to say that Tony is/will be content to spend retirement trout fishing on Lake Neuchatel. The To date, some 270 horologists worldwide have embodiment of a term ascribed to A.L. Breguet, horologer shown their committment to the craft by attending one or complet, he is still very much active as an ambassador for more of the estimated 1,500 courses WOSTEP has of­ the industry that he has devoted a lifetime to. Joined by fered. Much has been written over years (including here Bernhard Stoeber, Vice President for Technical Operations, in the HT) about Tony's accomplishments, following are Rolex USA and representatives from the Richemont Group some of the highlights. Born and raised in the Belgian and Breitling SA, this trip brought Tony, presently a con­ Congo (bonus points to those who know this country's sultant to WOSTEP, as a member of the team of final ex­ current name), Tony developed a fascination with me­ amination adminstrators for the NSCC class of 2003. The chanical devices and watches at an early age. The son of following thoughts were shared over dinner at Ivar's an accountant, formal watchmaker training was received Salmon House, a dining establishment of choice for local in Bienne, followed by a variety of increasing responsi­ cognoscenti, nestled on the shores of Lake Union. With bilities in after sales service throughout Europe. On be­ just a little imagination, if one discounts the din of the half of the Swiss Watch Federation (SFH) Tony was overhead Interstate 5 traffic and substitutes rolling vine­ awarded the position of technical coordinator for the South yards for the broadcast transmission towers on nearby African subcontinent, overseeing the region's tech cen­ Queen Anne Hill (the tallest of Seattle's fabled seven hills), ters and eventually established a watchmaking school it just might be possible to envision oneself at the termi­ there. Recognized for his accomplishments, when the first nal on Lake Neuchatel waiting for a ferry to Estavayer-le­ director of WOSTEP, Andre Farine passed away unex­ Lac or points beyond. pectedly in 1975, Tony was offered the position. Never

6 Horological Times • November 2003 one to tum down the next challenge, after much thought, he accepted the position, and, as they say, the rest is history. For those not familiar with WOSTEP origins, it was started in 1966 in cooperation with the SFH and Watchmakers of Switzerland Informa­ tion Center (WOSIC) as a scholarship program for journeyman level watch­ makers from North America and Canada. The only course offered at the time, an eleven month 'Refresher' course offered in Neuchatel and taught in English, it offered an opportunity for twelve watchmakers a year to refine their skills. Like many programs, it was originally intended to be a tempo­ rary one, estimated at two to three years Class of 2003 Rear: Bernhard Stoeber, Diego Rae! (AZ), Stephen Zeffren (OR), Barry Swodeck (WA), Chris Reale (WA), John Davis (CA), Viet Hong (CA). Front: Rebecca in duration, but due to its popularity Lovett (WA), Antoine Simonin, Elaine Rolf and demand was extended. Perhaps because of this and to allow for greater participation, one of Tony's first tasks was to streamline the program, the goal to cover the same material in twenty weeks. Considered WOSTEP's signa­ ture course and one of Tony's most sig­ nificant achievements, the Refresher course is still offered today following the same curriculum. On the other side of the coin, the worst experience oc­ curred in the 1980s after the prolifera­ tion of the quartz watch. With the per­ ception that watchmakers would no longer be required, Tony recalled the uncertainty that every six months brought of the news of impending school closure, only to be granted a last minute reprieve. The 1990s brought forth fresh Class of 2004 Rear: John Schuitemaker (WA), Michael Sharkey (WA), Andrew Cook support from the industry and new (AZ), West Rumley (WA), Evan McKay (WA). Front: Henry Hatem, Patrick McMichael goals to further the cause of watch­ (WA), Kelly Hunter (FL), Karen Lindeman-Rohrer (WA), Steven Thompson (TX), Deane Benninghoven (WA), Howard Long (WA) maker education. AWl Executive Di­ rector Jim Lubic recalled he was pro­ foundly impressed by the amazing in­ tensity and conviction with which Tony spoke when he introduced the then new 3000-hour Basic program and the worldwide Partnership concept during their first meeting at a Research and Education Council (REC) meeting in 1993. (Jim also remembers his wry sense of humor, particularly when ob­ serving a less-than-pristine/contami­ nated movement, asking if the they Elaine Rolf grades a quiz

November 2003 • Horological Times 7 were trying to be a farmer and grow potatoes in the watch. Do you suppose that he had any personal experience with this? Moving right along ... ) Tony Knorr at NSCC subsequently was the first school in the United States to adopt the 3000-hour program in 1994. At last count, with fourteen schools in Cleaning machines six countries registered with the Part­ Steam cleaner, water pressure tester nership (with more in the works) it looks like another successful project for Tony. Growth simultaneously was also being experienced in Neuchatel, association, a member of the Breguet expanding from literally a single room Foundation, president of the technical facility into an entire ground floor in committee of the group Poincon 1991, then the current two story build­ Fleurier and a board member of the ing in 1996. Today WOSTEP offers International Horology Museum in La over twenty courses in four languages. Chaux-de-Fonds. Probably not a rev­ To keep abreast of the needs of indus­ elation, since the 1960s Tony has try additional courses are also currently collected rare complicated and unusual in development. Part of this ongoing timepieces. Ask to see the photo port­ success should be shared with Tony's folio if you happen to be Neuchatel. Machine tool area wife Josiane. Although she comes Numbering approximately seventy from a watchmaking family, her strong pieces, his rejoinder when asked which suit is in organization and administra­ is his favorite piece is that of a true tion, and has tirelessly served in that collector: "the last one collected." capacity during Tony's entire tenure. As time becomes available, an Just as in marriage, the two know and interview with Maarten Pieters will be respect each other's boundaries­ scheduled to introduce him to the HT sounds like a winning combination. readership. In the meantime, please Chances are, if you've picked join us in wishing Tony all the best for up a copy of A Guide To Complicated a long and productive retirement! Watches by Francois LeCoultre lately, Test and inspection equipment you probably benefitted from another of Tony's endeavors. Tired oflooking "The Future's So Bright I for out of print horological books and Gotta Wear Shades" (Timbuk3, 1986), then paying exhorbitant prices upon or, what a difference three years finding them, Simonin Publications makes... When this occasional AWl was created. His first release was the Bench Course instructor last visited result of a three year search for the NSCC in 2000 to conduct seminars on copyright holder of the preceding. It the ETA Autoquartz movement for a was reprinted in 1985, and is the first group of watchmakers from Ben book to be made available in French, Bridge Jewelers, the facilities were German and English editions. The clearly showing their age. Little did View of the first year classroom current and still growing catalog en­ anyone suspect that significant changes compasses approximately 3000 titles. were imminent. A part of the NSCC Tony advises that he will continue to campus since it opened in 1970, the pursue publication and distribution WTI program traces its roots to the late activities and is now working on a text 1950s and the Capitol Hill campus of on 'special techniques' (no publication Edison Technical School. Under the date available). stewardship of George Lewis and later Active as a founding member Tony Knorr, countless Emerald City and president of Chronometrophilia, a area horologists have begun their ca­ 600 member Swiss watch collectors reers through this program. Today View of the second year classroom

8 Horological Times • November 2003 Seattle Central Community College occupies the Capitol Hill site. In 2000 Rolex SA provided a $1 million five-year grant to NSCC which has enabled the expansion and rennovation of its program, equipment and infrastructure. The classroom is now partitioned into first and second year areas, the latter having the benches with the covetted adjustable arm rests. A separate subdivided room for larger machine operations, heat treating and Heat treating bench cleaning and polishing operations has also been incorporated. The transfor­ mation is impressive and provides a substantial and inviting environment Henry Hatem assists Karen Lindenman­ conducive to learning. But state-of­ Rohrer with a jeweling project. the-art facilities would not be complete without an equally competent staff. The adage about a nut not falling far from the tree seems appropriate here­ both instructors, Elaine Rolf and Henry Hatem are graduates of the WTI. A full-time instructor since 2000, Elaine, a Pacific Northwest native, has at­ tended courses at WOSTEP Neuchatel and co-managed the after sales service center at Ben Bridge Jewelers. She was Kelly Hunter perfecting "Seattle Stripes". instrumental during the classroom re­ design and derives satisfaction from knowing that she has contributed to As with most schools, adver­ making the proverbial 'light bulb' tising and recruitment budgets are come on for students. It's probably this modest at best. So how are prospec­ sense of nurturing that translates to her Michael Sharkey at the turns tive students finding out about NSCC? horticultural successes as well. Henry In descending order, of the 200+ Hatem has been at NSCC since Octo­ inqueries received over the past year, ber 2002 and brings extensive experi­ the internet, word of mouth from ence in precision machining and manu­ friends, watchmakers and/or jewelers facturing processes (CAD/CAM/ and trade publications have been the CNC). Presently handling the first year most fruitful. Whether they are the class, his goal is to become proficient next generation and heir apparent to the in the entire curriculum, and has em­ family business, creating an adjunct to braced the challenge of further refin­ a career in industrial design, a collec­ ing and improving the quality of the tor looking to expand their knowledge program. Along with raising his just Chris Reale completes a watch. or as a vehicle for personal explora­ turned one-year-old daughter Maria, tion, the profiles and reasons for ap­ Henry manages to find time to provide plying to the WTI are as varied as the answers in the "Ask the Watchmaker" Unlike some who feel that the goal of applicants. Despite this, one trait ob­ section of the Watch USeek web forum. this position is to prevent or control served to be common in all of them is This month Henry is on his first trip to access to an office, one will find Lily an undeniable and refreshing enthusi­ Neuchatel to attend the new "How to genuinely friendly and willing to be of asm (they must have met Ewell Teach Micromechanics" course. The service. Naturally effervescent, this is Hartman). After completing an initial third member of the staff is part-time no doubt the education major in her application form and a written me­ adminstrative assistant Lily Shively. shining through. chanical comprehension examination,

November 2003 • Horological Times 9 Class of 2005 Instructors Elaine Rolf and Henry Hatem with Administrative Assistant Lily Shively

Ted Ojeda with the first two week's projects

Mary Ellen O'Keeffe, Ed.D., Dean of Professional Education, addresses graduation ceremony attendees.

applicants scoring sufficiently high take a practical dexterity/aptitude evaluation and are interviewed. Of those successfully completing the sec­ ond phase, a maximum of twelve will be accepted into the freshman class which begins once a year in Septem­ ber. Each year the number of inqueries, both domestic and international, has been steadily increasing. As of this writing some two dozen requests for information for the 2004 session have already been received. The course spans eight eleven-week quarters run­ ning fall through summer, forty hours a week. Academically, two options are Open house available. Upon completion of 164

10 Horological Times • November 2003 credits an NSCC Watch Technology Certificate (and hopefully a WOSTEP diploma) is awarded. As of 2002 the WTI has become an accredited pro­ gram. With an additional twenty-eight credits in general education (192 cred­ its total), an Associates of Arts Degree (AAS) may be earned. Estimated stu­ dent tuition and fees for the class of 2004-6 range is $9900 for Washington state residents. Of this figure approxi­ mately $2600 is for two tool kits pur­ chased during the first year. For this relatively small program a variety of full and partial scholarships is avail­ able. Benefactors include the Ben Bridge Foundation, the George T. Lewis Memorial/NSCC, Marcus and Class of 2003: Mary Ellen O'Keeffe, Chris Reale, Bernhard Stoeber, Rebecca Lovett, Mildred Mayer and Rolex SA. Ben Henry Hatem, Barry Swodeck, Elaine Rolf, John Davis Bridge Jewelers, founded in Seattle in 1912, has had a long and special rela­ tionship with the WTI. Half of their electronics with their attendant are likely to agree with. To that end, more than thirty Seattle based watch­ manipulations and adjustments are those seeking employment have had makers are NSCC graduates and five covered. Everything builds to the fi­ multiple options available to them, it of their watchmakers have been in­ nal examination in August, a two and is now just a matter of deciding which structors there. Sons Herb and Jon a half hour written examination and avenue to pursue. Congratulations to Bridge have also served on the NSCC three watches with unknown defects: all of this year's graduates and thanks board of directors. an automatic, mechanical chronograph to Elaine and Henry for a job well As to the 3000-hour course and quartz. The NSCC class of 2003 done! work, starting on the premise of no had a 100% pass rate for all those tak­ For some watchmaking stu­ previous watchmaking experience, the ing the exams and the overall class dents, Oklahoma (is) OK! An upcom­ first year concentrates on the making average was a respectable 83.33%. ing issue of the HT will cover the and use of hand tools-cutting and fil­ They were feted at an WTI open house WOSTEP program at the Oklahoma ing in wood, brass then steel, followed and graduation ceremony on October State University (OSU) Okmulgee by lathe work. Of the five practical in­ 16th, receiving both WOSTEP diplo­ campus. Until then, "Stay Clam" (lvar termediate examinations, three during mas and NSCC Watch Technology cer­ Haglund, Seattle). the first year, only the third is involved tificates. Dean of Professional Tech­ with watch train adjustments and nical Education Mary Ellen O'Keeffe, North Seattle Community College mechanisms. Sets containing ten dif­ Ed. D., related that the WTI is perhaps Watch Technology Institute ferent training movements are issued the most elusive and demanding of the 9600 College Way North during the second year and the prin­ forty-seven certificate programs avail­ Seattle, WA 98103 ciples of escapements, hairsprings and able at NSCC, a fact that the graduates Telephone: 206-526-0169 http://www.northseattle.edu/watch 0

November 2003 • Horological Times 11 The Levers of American Striking Movements Part 10

David J. LaBounty, CMC, FBHI

Movement in Warning (E) is not radial to the warning wheel (H) there Rotate the center shaft with the minute will be recoil of the wheel as the warning le­ hand until the levers start to rise and watch for ver (E) is lifted. The wheel will be forced back the warr.ing process. This should happen 10 against the direction of rotation by the warn­ minutes to 3 minutes before the hour. ing lever (E) and could cause a stall of the time train. This is a common problem and although Warning Lever (E): Watch the action of the it can't always be corrected the recoil should warning wheel (H) as the warning lever (E) is be minimized. Ideally, the warning lever (E) raised against the warning pin when the minute should be adjusted so that it operates on an hand is rotated from the start of warning until arc that intersects the center of the warning just before it is released. The warning pin wheel (H). Not all movement configurations should land on the warning lever (E) by roughly will accommodate this adjustment, however, 3 pin diameters. If an adjustment is made, be so try to achieve as little recoil possible of the sure to check that the pin clears the warning warning wheel (H). lever (E) while in strike. If the warning lever

Figure 47. Strike train in warning. The lift lever has come into contact with the count lever and raised it sufficiently to release the stop/maintenance lever. The warning pin has been arrested by the warning lever, the stop/maintenance lever is resting on the upward slope of the stop/maintenance cam, and the hammer lever isn't being raised by the hammer pins.

12 Horological Times • November 2003 Figure 49: View of the closest approach of the warning pin to the warning lever during strike.

Figure 48: "]" lever and release pins in warning. Movement in Strike Rotate the center shaft and catch the butterfly just after the warning pin is released as the "J" lever (F) drops "]" Lever (F): Check the position of the "J" lever (F). It off of the release pins. should be well on the strike release pin (L) and never have a chance to pass in front or behind, missing the pin. Ad­ Warning Lever (E): Control the rotation of the warning just as needed. Pay special attention to the end shake in wheel (H) until the warning pin reaches its closest approach the arbor and center shaft. Push the "J" lever arbor against the back plate and pull the center shaft against the front plate and recheck "J" lever (F)/release pin (L) relationship. The pin should be well on the "J" lever (F) and never pass by.

Lift Lever (D): If warning occurs too early or too late, ad­ 1 BRACELET & POCKET BALANCE STAFFS just the lift lever (D) up or down to compensate. A lift le­ • Rivet & friction styles. 10 grams. ver (D) that is too low will cause the strike train to go into 01-8060A ...... $5.95 pkg. warning too close to the hour. A lift lever (D) that is too ELGIN POCKET WATCH & MATERIAL high will cause the strike train to go into warning too early. ASSORTMENTS 18 asst. 4th wheels sizes 18 to 0. In an extremely low case, the lift lever (D) won't raise the ...,...... _,. 03-4284 ...... $17.55 asst. other levers high enough to release the stop/maintenance CRYSTAL GASKET ASSORTMENT lever (B) causing a failure to strike. In an extremely high 53 sizes of 5 each for a total of 265 pes. crystal case, the lift lever (D) causes the count lever (C) to be trapped gaskets. Sizes 8.5 X 45 X 90-35.5 X 45 X 90. against a pillar post or another lever resulting in a stalled GREAT assortment to have on hand for quartz and movement. As with the other levers, several functions have mechanical repairs. Refills available. 012071 ...... $22.50 asst. to be balanced for proper adjustment. The lift lever (D) WEBSTER ESCAPE WHEEL must lift the count lever (C) enough that the stop/mainte­ TOOTH STRAIGHTENER nance lever (B) clears the stop face of the notch in the Straighten & align the teeth on all escape stop/maintenance cam (I) by 0.010" - 0.015". Lifting it wheels from the 400 day to the largest more is not needed but may be necessary in order to keep Grandfather clock. Bent or deformed teeth warning between 10 and 3 minutes before the hour.

Stop/Maintenance Lever (B): Once in warning, the stop/ maintenance lever (B) should be resting (even if only slightly) on the upward slope beyond the notch of the maintenance cam (I). Fine tune the lever during mid-strike.

November 2003 • Horological Times 13 to the warning lever (E). The tip of the lever should be train to stall when released into strike due to power drain close to the pin but not touching at this point. Adjust the and not enough momentum. Notice where the hammer lever so that it is near the pin but not touching. A comfort­ lever (G) comes into contact with the hammer pins. Adjust able distance would be at least .010" from the pin. Be sure the lever so that it contacts the middle of the pins and the lever isn't twisted so that it might come in contact can't come into contact with the wheel itself. Also, be with the wheel. The warning pin should clear the warning sure the pins contact the lever a comfortable distance away lever (E) at all times when not in warning. from the tip of the lever. Too close to the end and the Next, allow the train to run sufficiently so that hammer pin will jam on the end of the lever causing a the stop/maintenance lever (B), riding on the stop/mainte­ stall. nance cam (I), raises the count lever (C) to its maximum. Keep the strike train going until the count lever (C) comes to rest on the rim of the count wheel (K) and not in a stop notch.

Figure 50: View of the count lever at its highest lift point during strike. Figure 51: View of the count lever during strike resting on the rim of the count wheel and not in a Count Lever (C): The count lever (C) should clear the count stop notch. wheel notches by a comfortable margin (at least 0.020"). If the count lever (C) is being raised too high, it is wasted motion and simply adds to the wear of the stop/mainte­ Stop/Maintenance Lever (B): Watch the stop/maintenance nance lever (B). If it is too low it risks not clearing the lever's (B) relationship to the stop/maintenance cam (I) as notches causing a jam of the strike train. In either case, the lever approaches the stop face of the notch on the cam. adjust the count lever (C) to give the correct clearance. The stop/maintenance lever (B) should clear the edge of the notch with the barest amount of space and contact the Hammer Lever (G): Observe the amount of travel of the cam just after the notch on the upward slope of the cam. If head of the hammer (N) as the strike train advances. The it doesn't clear, or there is too much space, adjust the stop/ head should lift 1 to 1Y2 hammer head widths from rest maintenance lever (B) for proper clearance. This should until the hammer pin just drops the hammer lever (G). If give the maximum amount of stop face for the stop/main­ the travel of the hammer head (N) is more or less than one tenance lever (B) to rest against at stop. If not, then sacri­ hammer head width, adjust the hammer detent (M) to com­ fice some of the clearance to ensure that the lever is locked pensate. This adjustment will have to be balanced with securely onto the stop face of the notch. the need to avoid having hammer lift during warning. Allow the strike train to continue striking and Keeping the hammer lever (G) in the exact middle of the watch for solid stop. At stop, the count lever (C) should be space between hammer pins may not be possible but is squarely in a stop notch on the count wheel (K). The stop/ more important than the amount of hammer lift because maintenance lever (B) should be on the stop face of the "hammers on the rise" should be avoided at all costs. A notch of the stop/maintenance cam (I). The hammer lever hammer (N) being lifted in warning may cause the strike (G) should be in between, and not touching, hammer pins.

14 Horological Times • November 2003 or late at the half-hour but correct at the hour, then the half-hour strike release pin (L) must be adjusted (not the "J" lever (F)). Bend clock­ wise or counterclockwise as needed so that the strike points agree. If looking at the cen­ ter shaft from the front then bending the strike release pin in a counterclockwise direction will cause the strike release point to occur later. It is easy to get bending in circles and frustrate yourself and too much bending will work-harden the steel wire. Be careful not to break any levers or your frustration will con­ tinue. It is important to do things in order:

Figure 52: View ofthe stop/maintenance lever and stop/maintenance cam during 1. Assemble the movement properly. strike. 2. Adjust at stop and check clearances. 3. Adjust in warning and check clearances. 4. Adjust in strike and check clearances. 5. Adjust the strike release points and check clearances. 6. Quick repeat of #'s 1-5 to be sure nothing is out of adjustment.

Oiling The pivot points of the hammer lever (G) are the only lever pivots that receive oil. If the other lever pivots are oiled they will become sticky over time and become unreliable. The A B working surfaces of the levers should all be Figure 53: The X'd dot shows the proper adjusting point on the "]" lever to oiled but with as little as possible. (See oiling change the strike release point. A- Bending in the direction of the arrow will diagrams.) The hammer detent (M) should have cause the strike point to occur later. B- Bending in this direction will cause the a drop of grease applied where it comes into strike point to occur earlier. contact with the movement to help dampen the noise and action of the hammer's recoil.

Final Adjustment Strike Release Points Once the movement is back in the case there is one final adjustment that will need to be made. The ham­ "]" Lever (F): With a finger on the butterfly, rotate the mer arm will need to be shaped so that the hammer (N) hits minute hand until the "J" lever (F) is released. Note where square and doesn't come to rest against the gong, bell, or the minute hand is in relation to the release point. If strike rod. It should deliver a solid blow and rebound without release occurs before the hour, bend the "J" lever (F) as rehitting until drawn back for another blow. The hammer shown in Figure 53-A. If strike release occurs after, bend (N) and hammer arm should be free to travel for the entire the "J" lever (F) as shown in Figure 53-B. Unfortunately, strike without interfering with the pendulum, case, move­ this is a hit or miss, painstaking process since it often re­ ment, alarm, etc ... Reshape the hammer arm until these quires having a dial for a reference. You can get close by conditions are met. using a pivot hole that is directly above the center shaft as a reference or a fast/slow adjuster if it is centered on the Adapting This to Your Movement top of the movement. Realize that any adjustment of the Hopefully, by now, you have a greater understand­ "J" lever (F) could also change the adjustment of the lift ing and respect for the service, care, and restoration of the lever (D) necessitating a re-adjustment of that lever. levers of American striking movements. Unfortunately, it would be impossible to cover each and every style vari­ Strike Release Pins (L): Continue rotating the minute hand ant and include the specific problems inherent to each. until the half-hour is released. If the release point is early That is why learning some universal properties common

November 2003 • Horological Times 15 to all types of mechanisms is a must for a successful res­ lever uses a minimal amount of energy to be released while toration. Keeping these in mind will aid you when con­ at the same time having the maximum stopping power. fronted with something for the first time, something that is unique, or something that has been "made to work." 5. Avoid a lever that is adjusted so that, as it is lifted, the Hopefully, you will see these guidelines will also be ap­ train must work backwards or recoil. For example, a poorly plicable to the more complicated chime lever arrangements. adjusted warning lever will cause the warning wheel to recoil as the lever is raised just prior to strike. This condi­ 1. Know what the purpose of a lever is and how it func­ tion robs the time train of power as it tries to rewind the tions with the other levers. It is impossible to adjust a strike train. lever without knowing what it is supposed to do. 6. Pay special attention to a lever's proximity to other 2. Most levers will be straight and true with a minimal parts of the movement. Examine the lever's action and be amount of bends. Where bends do occur, they will gener­ sure it can't interfere with anything. For example, a warn­ ally be at right angles. ing lever that is adjusted too close to the warning wheel could catch the wheel if the end shakes are at an extreme. 3. Minimize friction on the lever by being sure it is free to move and has all rubbing surfaces free from wear, pol­ 7. Consider what effects the adjustment of a lever will ished, and clean. have before adjusting it. For example, don't adjust the stop lever and the maintenance lever when all that is 4. Minimize the amount of energy required to lift and re­ needed is to adjust the count lever. lease a lever while at the same time maximizing the sta­ bility of the lever. For example, a stop lever should be 8. Don't oil lever pivot points. adjusted to work at right angles to the stop so that the

Figure 54: Oiling diagram 1. The letter "0" designates where a minimal amount of oil should be applied to the lever suifaces. Note: The hammer arbor pivots are the only lever pivots that receive oil. The "G" on the hammer detent denotes where a dab of grease should be applied.

Figure 55: Oiling diagram 2. The letter "0" designates where a minimal amount of oil should be applied to the lever suifaces.

16 Horological Times • November 2003 This concludes the series on "The Levers of American Striking Movements."

Resources and Additional Reading Twin City your 1. Special "Thank You!" to Jerry Faier, CMC for This training, expertise, and input. Watch Band..}] ead~arters 2. Baier, Joseph G. et al. Questions and Answers of and for the Clockmaking Profession. pp. 44 - 53, 93. 3rd ed., -~ - -- >vBHa - ~JI : . ~n-.,, .:: ·. :_·. AWl Press, 1988.

3. Conover, Steven G. "Chime and Strike," Horological Introducing our colllol'/out Times. AWl Press, October, 1978- August, 1987. watchband line ••• 20P0 ge 1 col ~ 4. Darnall, J.V. Restoration of Wooden Movements and • Improved Quality Cases: Repairs, Refinishing and Troubleshooting. 1970. • Will fit into your existing displays • Cross reference lists to Kreisler Styles Available 5. Eckhardt, George H. Pennsylvania Clocks and Clockmakers. The Devin-Adair Company, 1955. Leather Quality Features: • Rem borde construction 6. Goodrich, Ward L. The Modern Clock. Pp. 297- 318. • Genuine nubuck lining 9th ed., North American Watch Tool & Supply Company, • Hypo-allergenic mirror polished buckles • Water resistant 1970. Metal Quality Features: 7. Robey, John. The Longcase Clock Reference Book. pp. • 100% stainless steel construction on gold plating 217- 251, Mayfield Books, 2001. which is nickel free and is guaranteed for at least 1 year • Adjustable and curved ends • All long lengths 8. Samelius, W. H. Watch & Clock Information Please!. Sport Features & Categories: pp. 93 - 100. Compiled and Edited by Orville R. Hagans, • I 00% waterproof • Stainless steel buckles CMW, CMC, PAWl, FBHl, FNAWCC.AWlPress, 1981. • PVC, PU. Nylon and Velcro 9. Smith, Eric. Striking and Chiming Clocks. David & Miscellaneous Charles, 1995. • Black & Brown one piece leather bands and cuffs 0 • 12 pieces folders with assorted sizes & colors: padded calf. padded calf long, lizard calf • Length of each band printed on the front of each label AWl-ELM TRUST BATTERY RECYCLING PROGRAM DISCONTINUED

Due to all the non-silver oxide batteries that have become more prevalent and stricter regu­ lations on how to dispose of these batteries, it was decided that the program should come to an end. The ELM Trust hopes that you will still f~, TWIN CITY SUPPLY , w,., o 2230 Edgewood Avenue South think of them when recycling your batteries by Minneapolis, MN 55426-2823 requesting that your recycling company send Phone: 952.545.2725 Fax: 952.545.4 715 your check directly to the ELM Trust. This will www. twincitysupply. net still be a tax deductible donation. USA: 800.328.6009 Fax: 800.328.6001

November 2003 • Horological Times 17 The Modern German Clock Movement Part 39 Just the FAQ's Ma'am Mark Butterworth With due respect to Sargent Friday of be longer than its wood stick counterpart. As Dragnet fame, there are frequently asked ques­ an example, if a Hermie movement is rated at tions which come to us, many of which do not 94cm, the wood stick is approximately 32 find their way into a column by itself. Some inches tip to tip, while the lyre pendulum were covered long ago, but we keep getting would be 35 inches measured tip to tip. The asked again. So here goes: material supply houses fortunately sell the pendulum according to the manufacturers' Q: My Hermie 2214 quartz unit chimes at 5 ratings to remove the guesswork. minutes after the hour. How do I fix that? A: Immediately after chiming, push in on the Q: Suppose I have a clock and the pendulum hand shaft and tum to the hour position while bob is slightly above the glass opening for holding the handset knob on the rear of the viewing. Is there a way I can "cheat" and make movement. It may require several tries. In ad­ the pendulum longer, but still keep time with­ dition, remember that this unit will not play out changing the movement? the quarter hours while moving the hands A: Yes, you can. If the upper part of the pen­ manually. dulum which is not visible is wrapped with lead solder or something similar, the center of Q: Why don't my pendulum measurements gravity is then made higher and the pendulum ever match what is marked on the movement? could be lengthened to get the same beat rate. A: First, it is important to recognize that the It is important to know that the higher the ad­ rated pendulum lengths as marked on the ditional weight can be placed, the more effec­ movement is a theoretical length only, and no tive good it does, and of course, a greater real pendulum will match it exactly. Expect amount of weight has a greater effect also. that your measurement may be off by a couple of centimeters at least. Second, any measure­ Q: What ifl have the opposite problem? I need ment is worthless unless we know the proper to shorten the pendulum without changing the beginning and ending points of what we are movement. measuring. A: What is needed is to create a compound For the modem German movements, pendulum. This is done by extending a coun­ all pendulum measurements start at the sus­ terweight above the point of suspension. pension post itself. Hermie and Urgos mea­ Again, the greater the amount of weight, and sure to the rating nut. Kieninger measures to in this case, the greater its height from the sus­ the center of the pendulum bob. pension point, the greater the effect. In a com­ pound pendulum, the regulation is opposite Q: Is there a problem if the customer wants to that of the simple pendulum. Lengthening the change from a wood stick pendulum to a nice lower pendulum will actually speed up the lyre pendulum? clock or increase its rate. A: It can be done. It is important to recognize that a heavier pendulum will also require a Q: To change the beat rate of the movement, heavier time weight to drive it. A general rule don't you just change the escape wheel? of thumb is that if the pendulum is a wood A: That could certainly be done, but in prac­ stick, the time weight matches the strike weight tice it rarely happens. The reason is that by and if the pendulum is lyre, then the time keeping the number of teeth on the escape weight should match the chime weight. In ad­ wheel the same, identical pallet assemblies can dition, keep in mind that a lyre pendulum for be used whether the unit is llcm or 114cm a given pendulum length rating will always pendulum length. For the very short lengths,

18 Horological Times • November 2003 the number of pinion leaves on the escape wheel is de­ on the platform itself for the newer hairspring types. For creased on some units. In reality, the combination of any the large units, clockwise is slower and opposite for the or all wheels from the center or minute wheel through the smaller units. escape wheel are altered to change the pendulum length. Q: My movement is rated at 3,600 bph, but my timer reads Q: I just got a Kieninger unit in for repair and the weights 3700 bph. Can I assume there is something wrong with are monsters; is this right? the movement? A: In the years 1978 and 1979, Kieningerproduced a lim­ A: No, there is something either wrong with the pendu­ ited number of 14 day movements. These units were cable lum, or you do not have the proper movement for that drive, triple chime used mostly by Sligh Clock Co. The pendulum. Keep in mind that a timer measures the num­ chime weight was about 16 pounds and the movement ber of swings a pendulum makes in a given period of time. was marked by a date code 78 or 79 and also by the letter In this example, the timer is telling us that the pendulum "K" following the date code. is swinging from one side to the other 3,700 times per hour. This is totally unrelated to the rating of the move­ Q: I can never find the rates for balance wheel move­ ment. What it does mean is that if the clock gearing is ments. What are they? rated also at 3,700 bph, then the clock will keep proper A: Those with a Swiss type escapement containing the time. If the gearing is rated differently, the clock will not balance, pallet assembly, and escape wheel are 18,000 bph. keep proper time. Changing the gearing of the movement This includes both Hermie and the ones used in the new will not change the reading of the clock timer. Kieninger models. The larger platform type used in the If you have any questions you would like an­ Hermie units such as the 340-020 and the Urgos UW06 swered and feel would benefit others, please e-mail series is 9,000 bph, while the smaller platform type used ([email protected]) or write the HT and we would in the Hermie 130 series and the Urgos UW16 series is be delighted to hear from you. 10,800. There are a few escapements used on some obso­ lete brands that used 14,400. In addition, one revolution Final thought: "It is better to ask some of the questions, tum of the screw on the platform type balances will change than to know all the answers. "-James Thurber the rate by one minute per day. The direction is marked 0

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November 2003 • Horological Times 19 Screw Slot Dresser

Jason Bird

A former carpenter from Salem, Oregon, Jason Bird has wanted to be a watchmaker since the age of eight. His dream was realized when he found out about WOSTEP. He moved to Oklahoma to attend the WOSTEP partnership school at Oklahoma State University in Okmulgee. He will graduate in December 2003.

Maintaining the appearance of a Tools and Materials Needed watch is crucial to its value. Lathe and collet Screws should not be ignored. They Graver require just as much maintenance as any other Propane torch part of the watch. They necessitate of the Lighter watchmaker proper knowledge and use of Safety glasses screwdrivers to keep them looking beautiful Quench vessel and new. Most slots in screws are not beveled Tongs for heat up and during tightening, the slots may appear a Caliper little more obvious and abrupt. The screws Alcohol cup with alcohol look unfinished because of the lack of bevel­ Jewelers saw ing at the factory or after refinishing by the Small file watchmaker. Boric acid (powdered) I learned about this little known tool Micron paper from one of my instructors, Mr. Stanley Screwdriver handle to hold the finished dresser McMahan. By the description and use of the High carbon steel drill rod tool, I decided to manufacture one. After test­ ing the tool on several screws it was found to Remember: Safety glasses should be worn if be a little too acute. I went back to work on there is ever any danger to eyes during any improving the shape. After the second modi­ manufacturing process. fication to the tool, it performed perfectly. The screw slot dresser is very quick and easy to manufacture. It takes just over an hour to complete.

Screw slot dresser with handle.

20 Horological Times • November 2003 Process of Manufacture

Preparing the Drill Rod for Manufacture 1. Use a drill rod of good quality and high carbon. This will ensure a high performance of the screw slot dresser. 2. Select a screwdriver handle to fit the drill rod being used. (This will be the handle for the finished screw slot dresser.) 3. Cut the drill rod to llmm in length and then remove the burs with a file. 4. Select the proper size of collet and install in the lathe leaving 4mm of the drill rod extending out of the collet.

Thrning the Steel Stock to Preliminary Dimensions 1. With a sharp graver turn the drill rod down to 0.1 Omm over the finished dimensions. Screw slot dresser. 2. Remove the turned drill rod from the lathe and clean it thoroughly in denatured alcohol.

Preparation for the Heat Treating Process 3. With drill rod in tongs ignite the wet coating of boric 1. Mix a small amount of boric acid with denatured al­ acid until all of the alcohol burns away leaving behind a cohol until a runny paste is produced. dry coating of boric acid on the turned drill rod. (The 2. With tongs grasp the drill rod by the unturned end and boric acid coating will protect the drill rod from oxida­ submerge it completely into the boric acid mixture and tion during the heat up and quench leaving behind a clean remove it keeping the drill rod in the tongs. surface.)

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November 2003 • Horological Times 21 Before being dressed. After being dressed.

4. Read and follow the manufacturer's specifications of end going in first. This will ensure best quench results. the drill for heat treating to the best possible results. 3. After quenching, a file test should be performed to 5. Prepare the specified quench medium in a vessel of guarantee that the heat treated area of the drill rod is dead appropriate size for the drill rod being quenched. hard. This is done by running the cutting edge of the file on the surface of the heat treated area. If it is dead hard Heat Treating (hardening) the file will slide easily on the surface as if it were sliding 1. It is only necessary to heat treat the working end of on glass. If this is not so and the file digs in. Repeat the the turned drill rod leaving the unturned shank soft. This heat treating process until the proper results are reached. will help the screwdriver handle grip the shank of the fin­ ished screw slot dresser, and will ensure the tool of not Finishing breaking during use. 1. Re-install the hardened drill rod back into the lathe. 2. With the coated drill rod held in the tongs by the 2. Use an oiled slip stone on the turning drill rod and unturned end, heat up the area to be treated slowly by a bring it down to finished dimensions. propane torch until the proper temperature is reached. 3. Clean the oil off the drill rod. Maintain this temperature for the proper length of time 4. Use a piece of micron paper of one micron and apply specified by the manufacturer, then quickly plunge the it to the turning drill rod in the lathe and bring to a high heated drill rod vertically into the quench with the hot polish.

+ /O.Omrn

1.5mm

22 Horological Times • November 2003 5. The finished screw slot dresser can now be removed to be refinished prior to using the dresser. from the lathe and installed in the screwdriver handle. Checking the Dresser for Proper Function Using the Dresser The dresser will glide easily in the slot with the After the screws are tightened, the movement right amount of pressure and angle depending on the size needs to be in a well supporting and stable holder for safety of the slot in the screw head and the temper and quality of and control. The screws need to be in good shape and so the metal of which the screw is made. The metal that is do the slots for best results. The dresser is used by putting displaced by the dresser during operation must be pushed the tip into the slot at the outer edge of screw head. Cau­ down in the slot to maintain a perfectly flat surface on the tion and control must be used to not mark or touch the head of the screw. If this is not so, then the dresser will bridge or plate of the watch during operation. Then with need to go back in the lathe and with a stone slip improve moderate and necessary pressure draw the dresser along the shape of the dresser and repolish with the micron pa­ the slot until the middle of the screw head is reached. Then per until the dresser has the correct working shape. withdraw the dresser and repeat the process from the other The screw slot dresser is a valuable tool for end of the slot until the entire length is finished. Practice maintaining the appearance of any watch. using the tool on old movements to develop the proper 0 control and angle of the dresser depending on the width of the slots to be dressed. Remember, it is important that the screws are in good shape for the slot dresser to work properly. If the screws are not satisfactory they will need

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November 2003 • Horological Times 23 Lexicon of Watchmaker Terminology 2003 Edition

John Crabtree Alcohol Lamp-A clever device for conceal­ Cross-Eyed-The state in which a DIY cus­ ing 100-proof vodka in plain sight. tomer finds himself after changing the battery on an ETA chronograph movement and then Alcohol Cup-Used to consume fluid stored realizing that all of the chrono hands are out in Alcohol Lamp. of sync.

Balance Tack-A) A device mistakenly used Demagnetizer-A device capable of raising by others to leave bits of paper with messages the magnetic energy in a screwdriver to 26 while you are at lunch. B) That cursed thing Gauss. you should have put away yesterday but which has just added to the interesting pattern of per­ Elinvar-A) The Hamilton name for Invar, a manent scars on the palm of your hand. miraculous metal which has great resistance to size change due to temperature. B) Opens Background Music-A soft, velvety audio up an opportunity to baffle co-workers with a cover to mask the muffled screams of the discussion of Invar, Elinvar and Co-Invar un­ watchmaker (see Watchmaker) when he or she til the wire bus arrives with the men in white learns that a watch which took six months to coats. restore was dropped on the concrete two min­ utes after receipt by the customer. Geneva Device-A type of engaged stopwork which one typically sees with one of the two Cannon Pinion-This is a device which pre­ wheels mysteriously missing. sents an opportunity to explain to the customer the fact that a watch has little to do with a piece Graver-Device used to find out just how hard of field artillery. American watch steel really is.

Carpet-A woven fabric placed under a Lathe-A word dropped into a sentence when watchmaker's bench to keep his feet warm and a customer asks, "How bad is it really?" after to collect hundreds of dollars worth of parts letting his three-year-old play with his vintage which can never be found or extracted. automatic.

Cleaning-What some customers will say a Lock Jewel-The part of a chronometer which watch "only needs" after being run for ten the customer pokes at during a DIY repair ses­ years following two decades in a drawer. sion and then wonders why the movement (Here, Watchmaker requires large helpings of simulates the sound of a dental drill for about Poise.) thirty seconds.

Chronometer-A highly accurate mechanism, Loupe-One of many devices designed to prized by collectors who cannot understand make the watchmaker look oddly brilliant. This why it will not read exactly the same as an is usually coated with fingerprints, dust, metal atomic clock six months on. chips and specs of shellac. When raised out of the way this produces some interesting looks Collet-The process of determining the final as one walks through the Safeway for a loaf repair bill after being informed that it has been of bread on the way home. a particularly slow week and the electric bill has just arrived. Mainspring-The thing a customer will usu­ ally self-diagnose as being "overwound".

24 Horological Times • November 2003 ~~--~~" No. 6-A style of tweezer greatly helpful to the watch­ ~_j TIME CONNECTION, INC maker who, after years of use, finds it impossible to eat \ · 724 South Hill Street. Los Angeles, CA 90014 . dinner without one in hand. Toll Free 1-888-847-7770 FAX; 1-213-624-2679 The NEW Time II No. MAXELL RENATA Non-Magnetic-An object capable of being magnetized Connection, Inc. 364 0.17 0.20 2003-2004 Catalog maxe _ _ to the point of being able to send a ship off course from is here! 371 0 32 0 32 over the horizon. The all new 2003-2004 377 0.17 0.20 catalog available now. 379 0.28 0.28 With over 140 pages of 395 0 34 0 35 products, reference guides, • • Parts Vendor-Very helpful people who enable watchmak­ charts, and indexes; the 1216 0.49 0.69 ers to keep watches and clocks in service but who, like Time Connection catalog 2016 0.39 0.45 is a must for watch & renata~ watchmakers, have an off day now and then and require a jewelry professionals...... ,....~ 2025 0.39 0.45 Featuringcompletelisling SONY. 2032 0.39 0.45 bit of sympathy. (See Watchmaker) of watch & jewelry Tools '-....:.:::....;::c.:::...;~;__------l and supplies. Movement pictures with cross D 1"1 reference guide, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, aanda Swiss v Pendulum-Proper name of a device referred to by cus­ Seiko & Citizen Related Items, and much more. Swiss Leather Strap tomers as: A) That wig-wag thing, B) The hoosiewhatzit, Deployment Buckle, C) Well, that long, you know thing, D) The thing my cat with White Stitched. likes to paw at. Buffalo Grain Size: 16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24mm Color: Black, Brown, Perpetual-(See "Swiss") .... -.-.;---­• .A_..l• Honey, Blue Stainless Steel Buckle: Pivot-A mental exercise, executed when discussing with 16 to 22mm $8.95 a customer additional repairs which are essential but which 24mm $10.00 one missed when making up the original estimate. Yellow Buckle: Black only 18, 19, 20mm $10.00 Satisfaction is guaranteed Free Catalog with Your Order

SUPER WATCH MATERIAL HOUSE SINCE 1972 FERRELL & CO., INC. 635 Hill Street, #204 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Orders 1-800-523-7534 Information & Inquiries {213) 627-6031 - Fax {213) 236-0755 - E-mail: [email protected]

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FERRELL& CO.IS NOT AUTHORIZED BY Ebel or Tag Heuer

November 2003 • Horological Times 25 Platform-A) Essentially a watch escapement for a clock assuming everyone on earth has already committed it to built on a small plate for easy removal and installation. B) memory. A soap box on which a watchmaker stands to say things such as "I told you so," "You didn't ask me before order­ Swarf-A) A British word meaning bits and chips of me­ ing that stuff," etc. tallic dust and grunge resulting from fallout of lathe and grinding operations. B) A good way to curse in the shop Poise-The quality of being approachable yet profession­ without using any of the commonly known colourful meta­ ally aloof. phors which might upset customers.

Poising Tool-A machine designed to make the watch­ Swiss-A word which, when applied to merchandise, maker look utterly brilliant as he explains to the customer raises the retail price a minimum of 50%. how a balance is much like the Wheel-0 toy from the 60s.

Swiss2-Please fill out the attached ten-page application Punch-A) What the guy with the 1975 Timex has com­ to see if you qualify to purchase parts from the "special" ing to him when he comes back to complain that the bat­ price list. tery you installed only lasted three years. B) Special shop mixture which is greatly enhanced by contents of Alcohol Tourbillion--Common Meaning: "You cannot afford this." Lamp. Technical Meaning: "No way can you afford this." Swiss Meaning: "Hehehehe ... beat that!" Railroad-A word used with conviction by customers to describe every pocket watch regardless of dial, size, jewel Two X (2x)-A factor used in estimating repair time so count, setting method or other specifications of the watch. that when the repair is finished in half the time, the watch­ maker can feel smug and look brilliant before a happy Repeater-A watch when sold on Ebay will not be in run­ customer. ning condition but will be advertized as "Easily repaired by any jewelry store." Universal-An item which will fit nothing in the known universe. Roller Warmer-A device which is heated and quickly clamped to the noses of obstinate customers or coworkers. Vibrating Tool-A machine designed to assist the watch­ maker in selecting and adjusting hairsprings and a great Ship's Bell-A striking sequence which makes enormous icebreaker with customers, offering an opportunity to ex­ sense but which some folks find they just have to accept plain how a hairspring is like a Slinky. on blind faith. Water Resistant-A) Shipped from the factory with wa­ Staking Tool-A device when used properly in a ter inside. B) A device which miraculously extracts water customer's presence while uttering a loud "Oops!" will from the atmosphere. C) An irresistible temptation to a cause the customer to faint. customer to wear his delicate, vintage watch swimming after you have spent three months restoring it and after Standard-A nice idea at the time, abandoned by those you have instructed him to keep it high and dry. with better ideas (see Universal). Watchmaker-A dark, moody, grizzled person of any age Stone-What every watchmaker wants to do to the fac­ or gender, kept in the corner of the shop to frighten away tory guy who wrote a service manual, led into a compli­ the mice. cated procedure and then skipped the entire procedure, 0

NEED INFORMATION ON A PARTICULAR WATCH, CLOCK OR ITS MAKER?

The Henry B. Fried Library is considered to be one of the world's finest horological libraries. Hundreds of books are available for your use whether it be for finding information for yourself or a customer, doing research on a special subject, or just for enjoyable reading. Customers appreciate a person that can talk intelligently when answering their questions. Make use of the library, it will pay big dividends!

ANOTHER BENEFIT OF AWl MEMBERSHIP

26 Horological Times • November 2003 SEEKING CANDIDATES FOR THE AWl BOARD OF DIRECTORS

The committee involved with securing candidates to run for the AWI Board of Directors is seeking recommendations from the membership. If you plan to suggest a possible candidate, please send that individual's name and background to: Nominations for Board of Directors Committee; AWl; 701 Enterprise Drive; Harrison, Ohio 45030-1696.

Each recommendation will be carefully considered by the committee. Candidates will be selected on the basis of their local association or AWI experience, geographic location, present job status, horological experience, and willingness to serve.

Recommendations must be received before December 31, 2003 to be considered for the 2004 election.

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' 1, \·•. v' ·__ The Clockmaker and His Lathe According to "Old Huck" 'tl Part 5 J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Introduction bushing will be drilled slightly smaller than The objective of this series Part 5, the the finished hole size. text will guide the reader through the job of turning and fitting a small item that is often The Lathe Work difficult to handle. The exercise is a practice The first step is to chuck the rod, face of fitting a small bushing into a piece of brass the end, chamfer the edge. This idea is illus­ that is typical to clock plate thickness. trated in Figure 51. In general terms, small pieces are more Two HTissues back, this series related difficult to handle. This material will show that building a Magic Center Finder. Use your cen­ it is indeed not a problem with a good process ter finder and spot an exact center as shown in choice. The raw materials used are a strip of Figure 52. 0.063 thick brass, a 1/8 inch diameter brass Drill your rod stock about 118 inch rod, and a few hand tools along with a #32 deep with a bit slightly smaller than your lathe collet. Other sizes may be used, depend­ ing on your resources. The brass is from a lo­ cal hobby store.

The Tools The items of Figure 49 will be used. A small hammer and bench block will be needed. The cutting broach should be in the range of 1/8 inch mid-section diameter. A simi­ lar range sizes the round broach. The small broach should have a mid-section range of % mm; and the pivot gauge also % mm. The Figure 49. Tools: three broaches, pin vise and drill, swage is 3116 inch diameter and about 2Y2 swage, pivot gauge, brass rod and plate. inches long, and its business-end about 120 degrees included angle. It is made from mild steel.

Where Do We Begin? With Figure 50. The brass strip has a hole drilled, reamed, or whatever that we will friction-fit a clock pivot bushing in. It has the hole lightly chamfered on both sides. Our brass rod is a slip-fit into the plate hole. From that rod, we will machine a pivot bushing that will be a friction-fit into the hole. We first machine the bushing with Figure 50. Brass plate with 118 inch hole, and 1/8 a length equal to the plate thickness. The inch brass rod. This is practice raw material.

28 Horological Times • November 2003 These loupes are made by Bausch & Lomb and have easy to use spring clamps to Figure 51. Chuck the brass rod. Face the end and chamfer edge. slide on and off eye glass frames. Fits all types of wire or plastic frames. Available in either single or double lens models.

Stock# Lens Focal Power Price Type Distance 29.168 Double 2-112" & 1-112" 4X, 7X $39.95 29.169 Double 3" & 2" 3-112X, 5X $39.95 29.164 Single 1-112" 7X $29.95 29.165 Single 2" 5X $29.95 29.166 Single 2-112" 4X $29.95 29.167 Single 3-112" 3X $29.95 Dauphine Hand Assortment Now you can get Dauphine style hands in a money saving assortment. This assortment contains 24 yellow pair and 12 white pair of the most popular sizes listed below.

Assortment No. HAN-42 Figure 52. Locate exact center to be drilled. Use the Magic Your Cost $35.95 Center Finder. Refills $3. 10 pair lj'I 't Refill Hole Length Refill Hole Length # Size # Size 1 40/80 3x5 12 70/120 6x9 2 40/80 4x7 13 70/120 7x11 3 40/80 5x8 14 70/120 8x12 5 55/100 6x9 15 45/90 3x5 6 55/100 7x11 16 45/90 4x7 7 55/100 8x12 17 45/90 5x8

Figure 53. Drill one bit size smaller than the pivot gauge.

November 2003 • Horological Times 29 Figure 54. Cut almost free. Length is slightly more than plate Figure 57. The pieces: a swage, pivot gauge, bushing on a thickness. Here, that is about 0.070 inch. handle, and the practice plate.

-: :'!""""

I• .=,.- .. - r::.,... ,_ _, .--- -:~- ; ~- ~ ._~-v . -~ -. --.,:;.· ' "' , •. 3fI

Figure 58. The bushing just slips into the plate hole. Note small crescent at lower bushing edge to identify plate outside. Figure 55. Hold bushing in the collet and break away the handle.

working pivot. See Figure 53. Hold the round pin vise lightly. In the event it pulls heavily, let it spin in your fingers. That is a technique to prevent breaking drill bits. Clean and lube, and continue. Cut a little longer than the final length. The hobby knife cutoff tool is in action in Figure 54. Do not cut the piece free-almost free. Figure 55 shows the reason. Se­ cure the piece in the collet and break away the handle. The raw end can be faced and chamfered. I use a group of tapered steel rods to handle bush­ ings. The one shown in Figure 56 is shop built. A broach is a suitable tool. In Figure 56, the raw end of the bushing is next to the collet. It is about 0.070 inch long. Measure the bushing length and estimate how much needs to be cut from the raw end. This one is around Figure 56. The raw bushing is handled on a round broach. Its 0.070 inch. We need to remove about 0.007 inch. Place in left end is yet to be machined to a length of 0.063 inch.

30 Horological Times • November 2003 Figure 59. Plate, inside view through 15x eye loupe. Bushing was swage-locked in place. Pivot diameter 3J4 mm. Figure 60. Plate, outside view (note crescent). Oil sink was formed by the swage operation. Pivot diameter 3,4 mm. Photographed through 15x eye loupe. the collet, raw end out. Cut a chamfer of about 45° and about 1.5 times as wide and the material you wish to re­ move. Now face the end until the chamfer is around half gone. This gives judgment of how much material you have removed. A few trips through this exercise will make you an expert on length removal.

Test Your Work Our bushing is cut to length in Figure 57. Let's see how it looks. Study Figure 58. The bushing just slips into the Relentless® Sawblades plate hole. Note the plate marker in that illustration. I call that plate outside. Remember, the bushing is loose in the hole, and we need an oil sink.

Secure and Finish the Bushing Use a heavy smooth bench block (Y2 pound or more), place the swage in the bushing hole, strike the Relen~ess ® blades are manufactured in Switzerland from the swage with a sharp stroke of a 2 ounce steel hammer; that highest quality steel on the most modern equipment. The result is o forms the oil sink and locks the bushing in place. Then blade with flexibility ond on unexcelled edge for cutting gold, silver broach the hole to pivot gauge size. Figures 59 and 60 ond other rnetols. Relenriess®blades are extra long los~ng because show rear and front view through a 15x eye Ioupe. Note they ore electronically tempered ond are easier to use bemuse they rough edges around the inside edge of the pivot hole. That don't wonder. Teeth ore perfecriy angled, uniform ond straight. We chose Relenriess®"Golden Extras" bemuse they ore stote-of-the-ort is a pitfall of every bushing or pivot hole that has been to meet all of your cutting requirements. Sold per gross. reamed (broached). It is a prime cause of latent stoppers. This must be removed with a small chamfering reamer. SAW-400.02 SAW-400.05 2/0 SAW-400.03 ' I Be wise, inspect your work! SAW-400.06 0 SAW-400.04 Where Do We Go From Here? Only $18.95 Lots more to come. The next part will relate to per Gross! lathe work on the great wheel of an older American clock. That is a job frequently encountered, but rarely executed Primrose Supplies Inc. well. Save your HT copies for reference, good things are 1450 S. Main St. • Salt Lake City, UT • 84115 ahead. 0 877·296·1 02S • Fax: 877·296·1 038

November 2003 • Horological Times 31 Divide and Conquer

Laurie Penman

Dividers are engineers', carpenters', hold each limb in the vise (using vise guards) shipwrights' (and any number of other crafts­ and file a shallower angle on the points. The men), compasses. They are an old and a very final point was achieved, just as with a chisel useful instrument, but they are often mistreated or a plane blade, by filing a short, steeper angle and misused. In particular they get sharpened right at the end. This produces a sturdy point, improperly and as a result do not work as well which is easily visible in use. as they should. Dot punches should also have a shal­ Figure 1 shows a typical case. These low angle until the actual point is reached, so are a well-made pair by Starratts and they are that the precise position of the dot can be de­ blunt at the point so that when being used the termined, unobscured by the size of shoulder shoulder of the point obscures the tip - and that you would have on a center punch. All they are soft, which results in the mark they these old metal worker's tools were made care­ make being much wider than it should be and fully so that precision was attainable. consequently, imprecise. Dividers, as I said, Sharpness is refined by filing a flat are an old, not to say ancient, instrument and on the inside of the limbs, when the outside they are often viewed by modem craftsmen as has its angles completed. (A smooth file is nec­ being crude and inaccurate. They are not. If essary or the cutting point will be coarse.) the points are hard, fine and easy to see, the Finally the points are hardened by lines they produce will be about 0.002 to 0.003 raising to cherry red heat, plunging in water inches wide and with the aid of a magnifying and tempering to a very light amber. To see glass center dots or cross lines can be placed the colors, you will need to brighten the steel to within 0.001 inches. first with emery paper. The pair in the photograph have been mangled, in particular they have been sharp­ ened on the grindstone which has overheated them so that they lose their hardness. Since they were already soft, it was easy to simply

Figure 1 Figure 2

32 Horological Times • November 2003 Figure 2 shows the points re­ shaped and hardened, but not yettem­ pered. Now the reason for wanting these dividers in good condition was that I had a bushing job to do on a 19th ,...0 0 century regulator. In fact I used a plug 0 to demonstrate the technique of plug­ .a"'5 ( I ging. To find the true center of the worn

I November 2003 • Horological Times 33 From the Workshop

Jack Kurdzionak, CW

You Are Invited pricing structure at least 25% in order to Do you have a solution to a watch or achieve their previous level of profit. Next, just clock repair problem that you want to share as they were adjusting the retail prices of spare with our membership? Do you have a ques­ parts to compensate for the change in the tion about a repair problem you would like to dollar's value, a major Swiss supplier of spare ask? I invite you to participate in this column parts increased its price list for parts, in many with your suggestions, questions, and com­ cases over 100%, which had the effect of dou­ ments. It's easy. Just email me at AWl bling the already higher prices paid due to the or write using the dollar's decline. Although this was the first rise old standby known as the postal service. You in prices from the Swiss supplier in about 10 can even fax me at 513-367-1414. years, it could not have come at a worse time I will do my best to help you help the for American watchmakers. They are now be­ membership. By sharing your questions and ing hammered by a massive rise in wholesale suggestions all of our members can benefit prices from Switzerland compounded by a pre­ from our combined knowledge and experi­ cipitous decline in the value of the no longer ence. The ideas, tools, techniques and prod­ almighty dollar. A worst-case example of this ucts presented in this column are suggested double hit is in the price of a barrel with cover by the author and contributing members and for a very popular, good quality automatic are not endorsed by any manufacturer, sup­ Swiss movement. In July this barrel was pur­ plier, advertiser or AWl itself. chased at a retail price of $6 keystone. The same part is priced (mid September) at $33.50 key­ Bad News and Good News stone. The new price is almost six times greater. In his keynote speech at the AWI an­ As usual, there is always some good news nual meeting in August, Gerry Wilson of buried in the bad news. McCaw and Bestfit Companies alerted our Watchmakers with a substantial inven­ membership to recent major price increases tory of current production spare parts have just for replacement Swiss watch parts. Gerry seen a major increase in the value of their stock. stated that prices had doubled and tripled for If a stock of spare parts was worth $1000 in many common parts purchased by watchmak­ July those same parts may be now worth $2000, ers. In plain English, this means that the wind­ $3000 or even more. A 200% return on invest­ ing stem that might have cost $3.50 last June ment would make stock market investors may now be priced at $10.50. envious. Just because your existing stock of Gerry used charts and graphs to ex­ spare parts is now worth more, you must do plain the pricing changes but in essence the more than just sit on your assets. These parts price increases were a result of two conditions. must be sold at prices that will cover their re­ The US dollar value versus the Swiss franc stocking costs plus your customary profit mar­ has declined more than 25 %. Previously our gin. Until the new price levels become com­ suppliers of Swiss parts absorbed the increase monly known, you will have to research the in price due to the declining dollar by paying current replacement cost of all spare parts be­ more for the parts while holding their retail fore selling them to your customers. The price prices stable. They could no longer support you quoted for any given part last July or Au­ this policy if their businesses were to remain gust is probably far too low. A new set of prices healthy. Suppliers had to increase their for commonly used Swiss material must be

34 Horological Times • November 2003 compiled and factored into your pricing structure. In this a new replacement as it did with its original movement way, you will be able to profit from your investment and and will run longer between battery changes. Second, all knowledge. of the old movements, which are not damaged beyond Jack Kurdzionak repair, that have been replaced should be saved. When a sufficient number of them have been accumulated, they Old Door Closes and A New One Opens can be sorted into batches of like calibers and rebuilt to ETA has closed a door by recently discontinuing like new condition. During the rebuilding procedure, cir­ the production of two venerable and popular wristwatch cuits, damaged parts and stems are replaced as required. movements. ETA 955.112 and ETA 956.112 and their var­ Although movement production has ceased, spare parts ied sizes and executions were made for almost 25 years will be available. The movements are tested for current and are found in a wide variety of watches including many consumption and low working voltage limits, and their higher priced brands. These movements are both service­ mechanical functioning is checked before putting them able and replaceable, either method yielding satisfactory into stock. results, at the option of the watchmaker. Now that they When a watch with an ETA 955.112 or 956.112 are out of production, the sources of new duplicate re­ series movement is in for service, exchange the old move­ placements are disappearing. ETA has introduced a new ment with one from the ETA F03, F04, F05, or F06 series series of movements numbered ETA F03 through F06, if the calendar opening position and color matches the made in several variations that will directly replace the original. If that is not possible, a rebuilt movement from discontinued models. They are the same ligne size; use stock is the logical choice. Either way, the job is done the same hands with the same dial leg location as the quickly and efficiently. Just because one door has been earlier models. All things being equal, these improved shut does not imply that you cannot open another. movements are an excellent choice when selecting a re­ Jack Kurdzionak placement movement. They are of simpler construction featuring very low current consumption and longer Horological Products battery life. Jules Borel & Company is now distributing to all Of course, horology has a lot of exceptions to the of its customers a new catalog titled "Horological Prod­ rule and these new movements add to that list. Many ucts". This spiral bound 224-page catalog is a valuable watches requiring repair are equipped with the discontin­ workshop addition for anyone involved with the repair ued movements also have distinctive calendar discs, with and sale of watches. The first of two sections highlights varied colors and calendar window locations on their di­ crowns, crystals, gaskets, watch parts and movements. The als. Although the replacement movement will fit perfectly second section features tools, equipment and supplies for into the case, the calendar disc of the new movement may the watchmaker. not match the dial color, calendar window opening size or If you have not yet received a copy, please call location. In the past the solution was to exchange the cal­ the Borel Company at 800-776-6858 and they will ship a endar disc using the watch's original disc on the new copy to you for the nominal price of $5. Included with the movement. When using the new model movement, that is catalog will be a coupon worth $5 on your first order. no longer possible. Although the discs may appear to be This is a catalog, which no member of AWI who is in­ the same size, there is a major difference. The disc on the volved with watches should be without. The wealth of new model rotates counterclockwise rather than clock­ information about products available for the watch repair wise as in the earlier model. If the discs are exchanged, industry will be invaluable. 0 the date will count down and the calendar quick set mecha­ nism will not function. Also the setting stems of the old and new models are not interchangeable. The stem for the HERMLE • KIENINGER • URGOS replacement movement must be fit to the case and crown H. HERR • REGULA when exchanging the movement. from Millions of the older movements were manufac­ tured and they will continue to require repair well into the JJuttntuortb ~locks, Jnt. future. There is no need for the watchmaker to refuse this Whyrepairwhen you can replace? work just because an exact duplicate replacement is not THELARGESTMOVEMENTSUPPLYINTHEWORLD available. By taking a few steps now, he can continue to FREE PRICE LIST: provide fast, reliable service for watches equipped with Call toll free: 1-800-258-5418 the older movements indefmitely. First, he can replace 5300 59th Ave. W • Muscatine, lA 52761 the discontinued movements, whenever it makes sense, E-mail: bci@muscanetcom • Web:IMMN.butterworthclocks.com with the new model. The watch will run just as well with SAME DAY SHIPPING • TWO-YEAR WARRANTY Mali< Butterworth

November 2003 • Horological Times 35 The American Watchmakers­ Clockmakers Institute is now offering brand new health & benefit solution programs available to ALl members at special rates!

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36 Horological Times • November 2003 BULLETIN

BOARD Mark II Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner. This New Hermes Engravograph CA300 cleaner has a variable speed spin dry Calligragraph Attachment unit and a different heating circuit. Joseph Verruni, Plymouth Meeting, ITEMS STILL NEEDED PA, is seeking information and oper­ Pegna Glue ating instructions for a Calligragraph Seth Thomas Metronome George Costantino, Schenectady, NY, attachment for his New Hermes Wm. Cracraft, is looking for a supplier is trying to locate a heat reactive crys­ Engravograph. The Engravograph was for a Seth Thomas Metronome #10 tal glue he has used for years and found made by Richardson's, Berkley mainspring (catalog #1103) model to be superior to all Heights, NJ. E873-007. others for certain applications. It is Do you have information regarding this Schatz Clocks month's requests? Do you need infot·mation called Pegna Glue about one of this month's responses? If so, We are seeking a distributor or some­ and used to be sold send your information or requests to: one who services Schatz clocks. through Bergeon Horological Times Bulletin Board 701 Enterprise Drive along with a kit that Harrison, OH 45030-1696 Bulova Watchmaster Model WT included a small Toll-Free: 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Mark II Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner heater for curing it. Phone: (513)367-9800 Michael Kosinenko, Mohrsville, PA, Fa'l: (513) 367-1414 It was widely used E-mail: [email protected] is searching for a schematic diagram by high-grade 0 for a Bulova Watchmaster Model WT manufacturers.

.J $22.10 - Clne Ye~H 0 $19.50- One Year Chronos Magazine Watch & Clock ::::. $42.00 - T "''' Yc;us U $35 .00- Twn Yems U $60.0L) - Three Yccr I 0 rimes pt~r yt•ar and ~caL (U . ~ . Fands drawn from ll.S. year. (U.S . Funds drawn .from U.:>. cohnoisseur of b the indu~try\ most­ il(lll k ()7lly) bank only) 1::1 Cf1l'ck or rrwnq tlrckr enclosed luxury timepieces. U Check or rrwn~y ordn enc lc>sed used publicatilln-the <..J Charge my Vise~ llr Mastt:rC;n·d Each issue presents 1::1 Charge my Visa tlt tvL1stcrCard only one in North Card N''·------­ the finest watches Card No.------­ America devott!d to Exp. Datc------and clocks of today Exp. Dare ------­ watches and clocks. Si .~natun..: ------Signatun: ------­ Phone ______as well as exploring Get the one conve­ Phone ------Name ______premier vintage nient source of indus­ Name------collections. Acldress ------Address------try llt!WS featun::s City ____ ::Jt;HC--- City ____ Stare ____ including eight annu­ Zip ____ Country-- Zip ____ Cullntry al directory i.~sucs. Cnmp:lny N:nne------Cnrnp<>ny Name -----­ Typc: ,,f Business ______Type of Businl"S ------Member Benefit Spotlight EDUCATION-Bench Courses

their treasury. Affiliate chapter representatives Lucy Fuleki, The member benefit being spotlighted should contact Nancy (nwellmann@awi­ Assistant this month is one that has long been a favorite net.org, 866-367-2924, Ext. 303) for further Executive Director of AWI members but may be underutilized, according toN ancy Wellmann, Education Co­ details on how to custom order an AWI bench ordinator. Bench courses began in 1972 as the course for their chapter members. "AWl Traveling Workshop Program." Currently, the following bench While serving as AWI President in courses are available: 1972, Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI, be­ • Introduction to American Pocket Watches, gan to promote the idea of the hands-on Instructor Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW; courses. The first course was presented by • Mechanical Watch Repair, Instructor James Hartman, at the Barkley Hotel in Cincinnati E. Lubic, CMW, Executive Director, AWl; on June 22, 1973. • Modem Mechanical Chronograph, Instruc­ Bench courses can be scheduled by tor Tamara Houk; contacting AWI and requesting a specific • Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs, In­ course. All that is necessary is a pre- registra­ structor Tamara Houk; tion of at least 8 participants. The cost of these • Advanced Clock Repair, Instructor Roland courses is $125/day. Nancy points out that re­ Iverson, CMC; cently the most popular method of scheduling • Wheel & Barrel Repair, Instructor Roland courses is through an affiliate chapter. AWI Iverson, CMC; offers the chapter a 20% discount, charging • Cuckoo Clock Repair, Instructor Rick $100/day with a registration of eight. The Dunnuck; chapter need only cover the registration fee • Escapements, Instructor Jerry Faier, CMC; for eight people. Since most instructors take • Repair of the Atmos Clock, Instructor Jeff 10 to 12 students, any registration fee paid over Hamilton, CMC; and above the initial 8, belongs to the chapter. • Watchmakers/Clockmakers Lathe Course, It's a wonderful way for chapters to increase Instructor Robert Porter, CMW

Nancy Wellmann, Education Coordinator

38 Horological Times • November 2003 Nancy is very knowledgeable about the benefits a jewelry designer. She graduated from the Revere School available to AWI members since she has been with the of Jewelry Design in San Francisco in 2001. Shannon, association for 17 years and, with the exception of the 29, has been married to Sam Gourley for three years and Horological Times, has served in every capacity that pro­ is presently attending Good Samaritan Hospital School vides service to members. Nancy was hired on October of Nursing in Cincinnati. Youngest daughter, Kate, 24, is 23, 1986, as a Secretary-Receptionist in the Cheviot, Ohio also pursuing a nursing career along with her older sister headquarters of AWI. Nancy remembers the first person at Good Samaritan. Both girls will graduate as Registered she talked to by telephone that day was Jim Lubic (cur­ Nurses in May 2005. In her spare time, Nancy likes to rent AWl Executive Director) who was then an instructor read, write, decorate her home and cook for her family at Goodwill teaching watch repair. and friends. She also likes to spend time playing with her When asked about her progression of job assign­ dog, Louie, who Nancy insists is the smartest and cutest ments, she replies, "It might be easier to tell you what I dog on the planet. haven't done, I don't think I was ever the janitor." With There will be more on AWI education in future her quick wit and good listening skills she is a real "people Horological Times articles. I will be interviewing Laurie person". Nancy's favorite part of any of the duties she's Penman about his clock classes, his correspondence course had over the years at AWI has been the interaction with and his publications. Then Jim Lubic will outline what the members. It's been an opportunity to meet many in­ AWl has to offer for watch repair education and what is teresting people. She's proud of the one-on-one attention happening with AWl certifications. TheAWI mission state­ that the entire AWl staff tries very hard to give each mem­ ment says that "It is the role of AWI to set the standard of ber who contacts the office. "The staff at AWI is a team, excellence to be applied to the quality of instruction for all of us helping each other whenever necessary. There's both the restoration and repair practices that are taught not one of us who could do it all by ourselves - we work worldwide." We will endeavor to show you how this together. Most members, when they consider the amount mission is being fulfilled. of services they receive through AWI, are amazed that the 0 staff isn't any larger than it is." Besides secretarial duties, Nancy has handled billing, shipping, meeting planning, technical support, purchasing, overseeing building and grounds maintenance, and working as office and general manager. She also worked extensively as staff support for the Board of Directors and AWl-ELM Trustees. As Education Coordinator, Nancy performs the administrative duties necessary for bench courses, certi­ fication examinations, AWI's Home Study Course in Clock Repair, both the watch and the clock evening courses held in Harrison, and any other course scheduled for the AWI ... Clock repair facility. She also works with REC matters when needed...... Restoration Nancy's personal life has been as eventful as her ....Clockmaking professional one. She is a native Cincinnatian, oldest of ..... Laurie Penman ... six children born to John and Virginia Sweetman. She ... and MORE! Every month at a special graduated from Cincinnati's Mother of Mercy High School price for AWl members ofS74 (normal in 1965. She has been married 34 years to Brad Wellmann, price $79). Just !Ill in the form below whom she met on a blind date. He was in the Air Force at and send it to us at: Splat Publishing ~ ~t)tj~~~iJ;I Ltd, 28 Gillespie Crescent, Edinburgh the time, so theirs was a long-distance courtship. Brad is \;! EH10 4HU, UK. Tel: +44 131 228 6388. a programmer/analyst in electric operation for Cinergy Fax: +44 131 229 5550. E-mail: [email protected] (Cincinnati Gas & Electric) where he has worked for 32 r-~~;;;;~~~~-~-~~~~~~~~-n:,-c~~~-~~~~~ -~-~~-= ~~;;~~~~ -~-~- ~~-=~~~~ years. He has recently discovered clockmaking and has I Address ...... ,...... ! become "totally addicted to it" according to Nancy. He is I I ooo• ••••••• • •••• •••oooo oo oooooooooo o oooo·ooooooo·o·ooooo-oo oooo oooo o o+ooooo o ... o•oooooooo• oooo j.o .. ooooo.o.--oooooooooooooo o oo ouooooo o oooo...o ,_.,d : studying with Laurie Penman both at the evening clock I course at AWl and through Laurie's home study course...... Zipcode. ...•...•...... Country ...... j I He has outfitted his basement workshop with a lathe, and Cardholder's name (as it appears on the card) ...... ! "is in the process of collecting every other horological I 1 Card N• ...... Expirv date ...... ; I . I tool known to man." I I The couple have three daughters who are the jew­ L~~~~-·~::·~:~:~~~::.-:=~~~=~:::==·~=~~~~~:~_d:~~=~==~-~==~-~·===·~·=::·:_ 1 els in their crown. Molly, 30, lives in San Francisco and is Visit our'' ebsite at: wn w.clocksmagazine.com

November 2003 • Horological Times 39 AWl-ELM Trust Update News That Is Worth Your "Time"

Gary Richards, Director of Development AWl-ELM Charitable Trust I am pleased to report that the number of Elementary were able to earn special points for people who have visited theAWI-ELM Charitable making it to school on time, for attending their Trust's History of Time Museum this year (2003) classes on time, turning their assignments in on is three times higher than the number that visited time, well, you get the picture. The two students last year ( 2002) and we still have two more months from grades 1st through 6th who earned the most to go before this year is complete. Since I began points at the end of the month were then given the working for the Trust in January of this year, one opportunity to visit our museum as a reward for of my primary goals has been to increase atten­ their good behavior and punctuality. dance to, and awareness about, our unique mu­ When I was first contacted by Sharon seum. I have been particularly interested in mak­ Gieringer, a Harrison Elementary teacher and one ing a connection with local school officials, teach­ of the organizers of this program, about ways in ers and students alike in an effort to get them to which I could assist with this program, I immedi­ visit our museum as part of their official school/ ately thought about the very logical and practical class trips, etc. To get them all on our radar screen, relationship between punctuality and "time", and I recently escorted the Superintendent of South­ I liked the connection between the two. So, I came west Local Schools (i.e., Harrison's school district) up with the idea of organizing a tour of our mu­ on a tour of AWI, along with the Principal of seum, followed by a small party at our facility, for Harrison's William Henry Harrison High School. these 12 very punctual young students. These 12 Both were impressed with our History of Time students were a bundle of energy and asked more Museum and with our educational facilities. questions than I was prepared to answer. The kids I have escorted numerous tour groups loved our fine collection of pocket watches, chro­ through our museum this year, but none was more nometers, and unique clocks, but they seemed to fun and more special to me than the young stu­ like our Foucault pendulum the most, and of course dents that I hosted on September 30th from the cookies and punch that I served them. Harrison Elementary School. As part of that The 12 students went back to school that school's efforts to promote character building in morning promising to brag to their teachers, friends each of its students, Harrison Elementary school and fellow students about how fortunate they were teachers have been promoting and focussing on to get to visit our "awesome" museum, which was one outstanding character building trait each certainly music to my ears. Several days later, month. For the month of September, that charac­ Sharon Gieringer presented 12 very special hand­ ter trait was "punctuality". Students at Harrison made cards to me. Each card was specially made for me and basically thanked me for the tour of our museum and for the party that I had for them. I believe I must have truly given one young stu­ dent something to think about, because in his card he stated that he really liked visiting our "store" and that he now knew what he wanted for Christmas ...... a watch. It was a pleasure and a lot of fun for me to escort these young students through our His­ tory of Time Museum. It was a day that I won't soon forget. I have been told that it was an experi­ ence that these young students will never forget as well. That, in my opinion, is time well spent. 0

40 Horological Times • November 2003 AWl LOGO MERCHANDISE

AWl Apron- Navy twill apron with three front pockets, neck strap and waist tie $27.50each

AWl Cap- Blue denim. $5.00 each

AWl Logo Ceramic Mug- 15 oz Blue Campfire mug with white logo $9.45 each retail $8.50 each A WI members

AWl Logo Ceramic Mug- Set of 4- 15 oz Blue Campfire mugs with white logo. $34.95 per set retail $31.45 per setAWI members

AWl Logo Embroidered Patch- 3" round patch. Sew or iron on. $5.00 each

AWl Logo Embroidered Patch Rocker (use with 3" patch) $2.00 each Designations available: Certified Clockrnaker, Certified Master Clockrnaker, Certified Electronic Watch Technician, Certified Master Electronic Watchmaker, Certified Watchmaker, Certified Master Watchmaker

AWl T-Shirt- Hanes heavyweight 100% cotton white t-shirts with blue and gold logo. Avail­ able in Small (S), Medium (M), Large (LG) & Extra Large (XL) $7.50 each

AWl Sweat Shirt- women's sizes only Large (LG) & Extra Large (XL) $20.00 each

AWl Membership Lapel Pins (former logo) $8.00 each

AWl Certified Member Lapel Pins (former logo) $10.00 each Designations available: Certified Clockrnaker, Certified Master Clockrnaker, Certified Electronic Watch Technician, Certified Master Electronic Watchmaker, Certified Watchmaker, Certified Master Watchmaker

------, Name AWl Membership No. 1 ~~ ------I, City ______State/Province ______Zip/Postal Code _____ , Country ______Phone ______Fax ______

ltem(s) Ordered Quantity Size I Designation Cost Total

Sendto: AWl AWl MEMBER SHIPPING FEES 701 Enterprise Drive If your order total is: Shipping Is: Subtotal Harrison, OH 45030 Up to $15.00 $ 5.00 Sales Tax 7% Ohio residents Phone 1-a66-367-2924 ext. 301 $15.01 - $45.00 $ 7.00 Shipping Fees E-mail: orders@awi-netorg $45.01 - $80.00 $ 9.00 Order Total Or visit our website: www.awi-net.org $80.01 - & Over $11.00 0 Enclosed please find my check/money order in the amount of: ------­ Please charge my credit card: 0 American Express 0 Discover 0 MasterCard 0 Visa

Signature------Exp. Date------­__.~

November 2003 • Horological Times 41 Industry News

A New Year and New Jewelry Other sections will include the Sections at JA New York High-End Jewelry Section, Platinum Two new pavilions have been Pavilion, the American Time Clock and Watch Section, New Product Gallery, added to the JANew York Winter 2004 Graver show, held January 25-27 at the Jacob Gift Gallery, Diamond Dealers Club's mounted ready J avits Convention Center inNew York Diamond Bourse, and the Bench for sharpening. City. The Inner Circle ™ and the Col­ Jeweler's Marketplace. lection Showcase, will both debut with A new seminar series spon­ an impressive display of fine jewelry sored and developed by Jewelers of from the industry's most respected America will be tailored to help retail­ The frame hold- manufacturers and designers. In addi­ ers improve their profits in 2004. ./ ing the abrasive is swung over to tion, the Italian pavilion will be relo­ Readers interested in the lat­ bring it into con­ cated to the main show floor. est information on exhibits, seminars tact with the graver and the Joining the other pavilions and and events at the JA New York Winter rod is slid back special sections on the main floor, The Show 2004, can visit the show web and forth to sharpen or pol­ Inner Circle™ will feature some of the site: www.ja-newyork.com or by call­ ish the face. finest jewelry manufacturing compa­ ing (800) 650-1591. nies in one elegant pavilion, making it an ideal stop for buyers to preview the newest collections. Attendees will also Lapping and Polishing Tool Fly-cutter ready be able to discover the newest jewelry Sharpening cutting tools is ex­ for sharpening - from noted designers exhibiting in the tremely important and a higher grade tool inverted. Collection Showcase section, which of finish imparted to the tool will in will be located in the Special Events tum improve the finish on the work. Hall. It will have its own entrance, as With this in mind the Lapping and Pol­ well as an entrance off the main show ishing Tool was developed. floor. Designed to impart a flat and The JANew York Winter 2004 true polished finish to all small cutting can be rotated through 360°. A facility show will open a half hour early on tools, the device is suitable for finish­ is also included for the lap holder to Sunday, January 25 at 9:30A.M. and ing fly cutters, gravers, and small drills. rotate on the main body. will close at 6:00P.M. Show hours for The tool is held in a bench The use of this tool is de­ Monday, January 26 are 10:00 A.M. vice when being operated. The tool scribed in my book Wheel and Pinion to 6:00 P.M. and 10:00 A.M. to 3:00 being sharpened is frrst ground to shape Cutting in Horology, a Historical and P.M. on Tuesday, January 27. JANew on a hand grinder and then transferred Practical Guide ISBN 1-86126-245-0. York's Red Carpet Jewelry Tours will to the Lapping and Polishing Tool. Two A small batch of tools is cur­ be held on Sunday and Monday. holders are supplied, one for square rently being manufactured and should Drew Lawsky, show director tools and the other for round. be available soon. for JA New York, said, "With more Polishing is achieved by laps Available from J M W Clocks than 950 exhibitors participating in the held in guides that have two grades of (J Malcolm Wild FBHI) 12 Norton winter show, these new sections will diamond shim bonded to them. The fi­ Green Close Sheffield S8 8BP; Tel: make the JA New York experience nal finish is with a fine grade ceramic 0 114 274 5693; Fax: 0 114 274 0295. even more exciting for buyers. Also we stone. This imparts a highly polished have redesigned the show floor, which finish to the cutting edge of the tool, will provide greater convenience for which in tum will transfer this finish British Horological Institute buyers to do their shopping. This year, to the work being cut. Accepts WOSTEP Certificate we're expecting more than 8,500 buy­ There is virtually no limit to The British Horo1ogical Insti­ ers. This will be a great show for a fresh angled cutting faces that can be pol­ tute (BHI) will now accept the WOSTEP new year in the jewelry business." ished as both the lap and tool holder (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training

42 Horological Times • November 2003 and Educational Program) certificate Watch Pilot by Phonak as Accredited Prior Learning towards Submitted by Benjamin Matz, its own award structure. The certificate, CMW,FAWI granted by WOSTEP on successful The Watch Pilot acts as a re­ completion of its highly-regarded two­ mote control instrument for the Phonak year Watch Repairer Program, will hearing aid. With this new timepiece, now qualify applicants for the aca­ the hearing impaired can regulate the demic element of Professional Mem­ volume of the hearing aid and even bership of the BHI. change its hearing program simply by This important move opens up pressing various buttons on the watch. a new pathway to membership for Four buttons make adjust­ watchmakers, similar to that already ments. Two buttons control volume - Watch Pilot are first prepared by the available to clock repairers who have up and down. The third regulates lis­ hearing aid and then can be made avail­ been awarded the postgraduate Di­ tening systems: lecture halls, etc. The able to the listener by the buttons on ploma in Clock Restoration and Con­ fourth button a) adjusts either quiet or the watch. servation from West Dean, validated noisy situations b) enables the listener Phonak was the grand-prize by Sussex University in conjunction to preset the volume for telephone con­ winner of the first annual "Marketer with BADA (British Antique Dealers versations or automatically regulate the of the Year" Award presented by Good Association). noise level of a particular program Housekeeping. WOSTEP-qualified watch­ The hearing aid comes in two For more information contact: makers who are interested in applying forms, as preferred by the listener, ei­ Phonak Inc., USA; 4520 Weaver Park­ for BHI Professional Membership ther behind the ear or within the ear. It way; Warrenville, IL 60555-3927; should contact the Membership Ser­ contains a computer and its goal is to Phone: (630) 821-5000; Toll Free: vices Team at Upton Hall, Upton New­ process sound so that the sounds are (800) 679-4871; Fax: (630) 393-7 400; ark, Notts, NG23 5TE, phone 01636 like those that reach the ear naturally. E-Mail: [email protected]; Web site: 817617 or e-mail [email protected]. The adjustments and controls for the www.phonak-us.com

AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair

Based on the original correspondence course written and administered by Laurie Penman, AWl's resident clock instructor, this course is constructed to provide information and instruction in a manner that is immediately useful in both learning and practicing clock repair. The course contains 16 lessons. At the completion of each lesson you will receive comments and suggestions from Laurie Penman, and a pass or fail grade. Those who achieve a pass grade in each section will receive a certificate of completion. Mr. Penman will be available to answer questions or offer suggestions to each student.

The AWl Home Study Course in Clock Repair package contains all the material and information necessary to suc­ cessfully learn the fundamentals of clock repair, including The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and a one-year subscription to Steven G. Conover's monthly publication, Clockmaker's Newsletter. Course participants will be invited to attend a 2-day meeting at AWl to confer with Mr. Penman and meet other students.

AWl Members - $750 Non-members - $825

Contact Nancy Wellmann, AWl Education Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] Phone Toll Free 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 or (513) 367-9800

November 2003 • Horological Times 43 ATMOS Micro Drills and Taps Classified Service & Repair- Original Parts Only Precision Swiss made Collets • 2-year Warranty on Labor Special loupes, Achromatic, and Aplanetic • Lower Prices on Parts Complicated Watch Restoration Advertising • Faster Turnaround Web site: Clockmaster, Inc. http://www.concentric.net/-Rdecorte Regulations & Rates 2537 So. Brentwood St. Louis, MO 63144 or call us Ads are payable in advance 90¢ per word, 1-800-837-1545 Ron DeCorte Ltd. +1 419 381 1081 $1.00 per word in bold type. Classified dis­ (314) 968-1010 play ads are $40.00 per column inch, 214' wide. Ads are not commissionable or dis­ ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE countable. The publisher may, at the We are Factory Authorized Service for: publisher's sole discretion and for any rea­ MORGAN PIVOI' POLISHER son and without notice, decline to publish or • VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP POLISH PIVOTS IN AS • TICK-0-PRINT & L&R republish any ad, in which case any fees sub­ UTTLEAS 5 -7SEC. mitted or paid for such ads shall be returned We service all makes of u~rasonics , all makes of watch rate flfSSH£ALIM~Gflc:l.4 KES. recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher re­ \1:.1-TCI!IMKfRS & serves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of MORGAN CLOCK CO. services will not be accepted. Confidential ads 800-805-2220 9-6 CST 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 are $10.00 additional for postage and han­ MORGANPIVOTPOUSHER.COM Used Equipment Bought & Sold dling. The first of the month is issue date. ~ For Information Copy must be received 30 days in advance ~ (415) 453-9266 (January issue closes for copy on December Barry J. Carter, Watchmaker 1St). Specializing in verge and lever fusee CNC machining HOROLOGICAL TIMES Parts manufacturing, repivoting, staffs 701 Enterprise Drive Repairing the unrepairable OK Rotors Harrison, OH 45030 (250) 216-0791 [email protected] Toll Free 1-866-367-2924, ext. 307 Port Angeles, WA Phone: 330-628-9655 Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414 Fax:33~28-9255 E-mail: [email protected] E:mail: [email protected] HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR Expert, experienced service on all Hamilton 500 and 505 Electric watches. Hamilton electric watches and parts always wanted. Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box 391 , Corte Madera, CA 94976. Tel : (415) 924-6534. E-mail: TRADESMAN rene@ hamiltonwristwatch.com

POCKET WATCH & MARINE CHRONOMETER REPAIR WHOLESALE WATCH REPAIR SHOP located General repair and restoration of antique and in Pensacola, FL. Call for price list (850) 944- complicated watches. Custom parts fabrication 3323 or (850) 501-8162. including staffs, verge staffs, stems, levers, and springs. Located in Massachusetts. Prompt Reliable Service ... Guaranteed Matt Henning, CW (413) 549-1950; VINTAGE POCKET WATCH RESTORATION. Call Us or Visit dialrepair.com www.henningwatches.com Twenty years experience, guarantee, free estimates. The Escapement, P.O. Box 522, r------, Pooler, GA 31322; (912) 330-0866 CLEANING, RESTORATION & PART MANUFACTURING FOR ALL I DIAL I GLASS CRYSTALS TYPES OF CLOCKS & WATCHES For pocket watches and wristwatches. For price We service and restore all types and grades REFINISHING : list/order blank: Send SASE to Mel Kaye, Box of watches and clocks. Patek Philippe, Piguet, 322, Basking Ridge, NJ 07920. Vacheron & Constantin, Rolex, LeCoultre, I Omega, Accutron, mechanical (all complica­ tions), tuning fork, electric, quartz, fusees, I CLOCK , MUSIC BOX MAINSPRINGS, GEAR alarms, repeaters, chronographs, chronom­ I PINION CUTTERS, MATERIAL & PARTS CUS­ eters, wristwatches, pendant watches, and TOM MADE. TANI ENGINEERING, 1852 St. pocket watches. Antique or new. Also all styles - • I of clocks: Atmos, cuckoo, 400-day, electronic, Rt. 44, Atwater, OH 44201; (330) 325-0645 . • - • . 4. and quartz. Special repairs welcome. Staff I : ~ I Catalog $3.00. manufacturing, repivoting, stem manufactur­ I ing (regular and oversize), gear cutting, etc. BEFORE AFTER Free estimates. Fast turnaround time. 37 I years experience in watch and clock restora­ Quartz Conversions ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR tion and parts manufacturing. Diamond Dial Conversions I ROLEXSERVICE Emblem & Name Personalization I J.S. Park, CMW, CMEW Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Member AWl & NAWCC Write for Brochures I Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in Satisfaction Guaranteed 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. I ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts TIME WORLD 58 W. SUGARTREE I are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the repair P.O. BOX 970 1240 Arbor Place Mall of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated Douglasville, GA 30135 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 I with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask for Alvin or (678) 715-7707 L ______(937) 382-4535 ..JI Marcus, (203) 792-4539. Mon-Sat 10-9 Sun 1-6

44 Horological Times • November 2003 W.R. Smith 2-hour Workshop Videos (VHS or GOLD PLATING SERVICE DVD): Graver Making & Hand Turning, Wheel Tank-Barrel-Brush Plating / eckce//s Cutting, Pinion Making & Oepthing; Workshop Your battery connection and more ... Procedures; Tooling the Workshop- $60 One piece or 10,000 pieces 379 Main Street Stoneham, MA 02180 each postpaid. WR Smith, FBHI, FNAWCC, CMC, CMW, CMEW, 8049 Camberley Dr., Quick and Quality Service CRYSTAL GASKET ASSORTMENT Powell, TN 37849. Phone (865) 947-9671. Call 1-800-256-0692 201 PIECES E-mail: [email protected], Web: http:!/ ALL SIZES FROM 14.0-34.0 horology. mag net. fsu .ed u/wrsm ith. htm Samson Technology (Sized in one-tenth increments) Corporation $175.00 CLOCK & WATCHMAKERS TOOLS 2240 SW 70th Ave. #E Refills Available at $1.25 each By J. Malcolm Wild, England Davie, FL 33317 MCIVISA Depthing Tools, Milling Spindle, Jacot Tool, E-mail: [email protected] TOLL-FREE 800-514-1270 PHONE Division Plates, Mainspring Winder, Staking Tool TOLL-FREE 800-690-3303 FAX All tools craftsman-made. Also Thornton Wheel & Pinion Cutters for both clocks and wat ches INDEX WHEELS FOR WATCH & CLOCK­ Like new watch bench-lathe with 2 level tool slide MAKERS LATHES. Madetofityourlathe. CNC & milling attachment chucks & gravers. tel. 785- Send $10.00 for 50-page catalog to: produced. Sold in sets or made to your specs. 242-3723 e-mail> [email protected] JMW (Clocks) Peterson Clockworks, 138 W. George St., St. Prop. J. Malcolm Wild, FBHI Paul, MN 55107-2754; (651) 224-2121. 12 Norton Green Close, Sheffield S8 8BP W.R. Smith "how to make" clockmaking books: England Skeleton Wall Clock; Grasshopper Skeleton Fax No. 01144 27 40295 HOROLOGICAL MACHINING COMPANY Clock; Lyre Skeleton Clock; Modelmaking Tools US Contact Call (570) 937-3301 Pinions, wheels, gears, staffs, stems, barrels, & Techniques; Workshop Techniques; & all John levers, jeweling. We balance wheels, staffs & Wilding books-$45 each, postpaid. WR Smith, hairsprings. Adams Machining, Makers of Watch DASHTO INC./TOM MISTER FBHI, FNAWCC, CMC, CMW, CMEW, 8049 & Clock Parts. (417) 257-1345. http://www.dashto.com Camberley Dr., Powell, TN 37849. Phone (865) Huge and everchanging selection 947-9671. E-mail: [email protected], Web: Used and new horological items http://horology. magnet. fsu. ed u/wrsm ith. htm FENDLEY & COX Sold by internet list only WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST TOOLS/EQUIPMENT 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 MATERIAL ASSTS/PARTS SHERLINE PRODUCTS RICHARD COX 972-986-7698 POCKET/WRISTWATCHES Free catalogs upon request CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI WATCH MOVEMENTS Limited Supply on Hand of Machines & www.fendley-cox.com WATCH CASES & DIALS Accessories at Pre-Price Increase Prices WATCH BRACELETS/BUCKLES Starrett Collets Now Available DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, MUCH MORE ANTIQUE CLOCKWORKS, LTD. FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. WE BUY & TRADE ALSO P.O. Box 201, Loretto, MN 55357 Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit tom@ dashto.com Toll Free 877-643-7698 the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK http://dashto.org DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, E-mail: info@ AntiqueCiockworksltd.com Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. www.AntiqueCiockworksltd.com BECOME A DISTRIBUTOR Regula and H. Herr cuckoo movements. Com­ plete selection. Great pricing. Examples: 1-day Schohl Crystal R25: $30, 8-day R34:$45. Also factory stopper ARTICLES FOR SALE new Hermie, Urgos, and Kieninger at 60% OFF Cutting Machine our regular wholesale prices. Call Butterworth An affordable machine that makes any 1-800-258-5418. shape mineral glass watch crystal in min­ utes in your own shop. You can make If You Repair Clocks ... STUCK FOR A MOVEMENT? crystals for both men's and ladies' you need our all new Catalog #28. or a watch part? Call Don Kraker's Watch Move­ watches in 6-7 minutes. ments. (559) 229-8423 or write 4325 No. 5th St., Fresno, CA 93726.

Traces the bezel shape directly onto the mineral glass material with a diamond cutting point. Timesavers www.schohlmachine.com Box 12700 17331 Lake Beach Drive Scottsdale, AZ 85267• USA Spring Lake, Ml 49456 480-483-3711 I 480483-6116 [email protected] I www.timesavers.com Phone: 1-866-844-0083 Our 152 page Catalog #28 is $3 post paid Fax: 1-616-844-5130

November 2003 • Horological Times 45 ARTICLES FOR SALE

TE~in~f~~~i~!!~~~ies H O WTOH:Ili"'"()~ I .zwKoo Ct..Cfk':

H Cl , ·k ~~ _7 > ' : :-,, • i~t:%~, ~-- ~: I Cau.l,.. with refu11d eoupo11 $4.00 ppd www. tecspecialties .com Jim Zerting PO ~ox 5042 South Williamsport, PA 17702·0842

Tungsten Carbide Gravers

2"" Fine Diamond Wheels

at the NAWCC marts this summe~ www.etemaltools.com 83 Mount Pleasant Lane - London ES 9EW- UK

BUSINESS FOR SALE

WATCH/CLOCK/JEWELRY STORE FOR SALE This is a horologist's dream for $330,000. This price includes over $500,000 in inventory. This 30 year old business is located in the Baltimore MD area. Owner retiring. Call Les Friedman at 301-623-1479. TOURS

Henry B. Fried Memorial- 31 51 Annual Horo­ logic Tour: Italy (Milan - Private Collections, WANTED TO BUY Poldi-Pezzoli Museum; Meet H.O.R.A.; Bergamo -Antique Market; Italian Riviera -Luxora Horo­ logic Museum, Absolut Glass Clocks Manufac­ ture, Florence - Galileo Museum Of Science; ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Rome) Mediterranean Cruise (Sorrento­ Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and Correale Museum, Capri, Messina-Astronomi­ watches. We have helped over 125 watch· cal Clock; Malta -Astronomical Temples; Malt­ makers in the last three years to dispose of ese Clocks; Santorini, Ephessus, Athens- Old­ their accumulations. When you're really est Water Clock, Olympia - Birthplace of the ready to sell, we're ready to buy! Phone (727) Olympic Games, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Venice) April 327-3306. Ask for Jeff or Nancy. E-mail: 17-May 04, 2004. Brochure? 1-800-262-4284 or [email protected] www.horologytours.net

ACCUMLATIONS WANTED!! HELP WANTED Buying Watchmakers' Stock of Old Watches, Wlten )•ou're rea(! to ell Cases, Movements, Watch Material, all types of t;;o ll Toll Free ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS wristwatches from common brands to all the fa­ 1-800-842-8625 Get away from the hustle and bustle of the big mous makers. Alw.l s prompt payment! city. We are an 80-year-old, high-end jeweler in Serious buyer. Serious offers. Duluth, Minnesota. 21 friendly, experienced em­ Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159 ployees. Work on many high grade watches: 12900 Preston Rd . #325 Rolex, Omega, Tag, etc. Must be competent with Dallas, TX 75230 high-end mechcanical watches. Opportunity to E-mail: don meyer@ hotmail.com attend Rolex school free of charge. Pay equal to a metro area with a much lower cost of living. Profit sharing and health insurance. 1-800-251- BUYING WATCHMAKER ESTATES, TOOLS, 2222. Fax resume to: 218-722-9151 or e-mail MATERIAL, MOVEMENTS, POCKET WATCH [email protected]. For regular mail COLLECTIONS, in Midwest and Western USA. send to Security Jewelers, 307 West Superior Street, Duluth, MN 55802 Call or e-mail with any Larry, [email protected], (970) 263-8807, questions. Box 84, Whitewater, CO 81527.

46 Horological Times • November 2003 WATCH MATERIAL WE BUY ENTIRE DISTRIBUTORS Please call us if you are interested WATCH COLLECTIONS in selling your business. All replies confidential. Call Toll Free Contact Pat Cassedy Cas-Ker Co. (513) 674-7700 1-800-426-2344 203-366-2500 We also :fit glass crystals to SPECIALTY METALS Openface, Hunting, and English REFINING Looking for a supplier of plastic crystals in sizes chain drive watches. COMPANY, INC. of 45, 45 1/2, 46. Interested in purchasing up to Complete watches, dials, a gross of each size, depending on price. Phone/ 1915 Black Rock Turnpike Fax: 276-322-4385 Fairfield, CT 06430 movements, case springs for sale.

Members: Ron Fried, G F Specialties We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any Better Business Bureau President 1-800-351-6926 amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, "I look forward to Jewelers Board of Trade silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment giving you honest 218 Consecutive Ads P.O. Box 170216 return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: and reliable service." Milwaukee, WI 53217 AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ lished 1960. Phone (843) 722-2073. BUYING OLD ROLEX WATCHES Explorer, Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT, Milgauss, Bubbleback, Cosmograph, Chrono­ Small CHELSEA or WATERBURY move­ graph, Speed King, Oyster, any partial watches, ment needed to fit miniature carriage clock, movements, dials, crowns, signs, clocks, 2"H X 1 Y2'W X 1 "D. (919) 369-9800 anything Rolex. [email protected] Call Don Meyer 1-800-833-3159

American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute Industry Advisory Board Members The purpose of the AWl Industry Advisory Board is to give assistance to the president, the directors, and the general membership of the American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute on any projects undertaken by the organization; and to recommend to and advise the president and directors on any matter or subject for the betterment of the Institute, its members and the industry.

Bulova Watch Co. Jewelry Industry Distributors Sy Kessler Sales lnc./Renata U.S. H.E. Carnasion Association (JIDA) Henry Kessler Woodside, NY Andrew Avery Dallas, TX Chevy Chase, MD Butterworth Clocks Inc. Tiffany & Co. Mark Butterworth S. LaRose Inc. Michael Biondolillo Muscatine, lA Greensboro, NC Flushing, NY

Cas-Ker Co. Livesay's Tourneau Lou Esselman Henry Livesay Anthony Riggio Cincinnati, OH Tampa, FL Westport, CT

Cooper & Co., Inc. Wm. S. McCaw Co. Watch & Clock Review AI Cooper Gerald Wilson Bert Kalisher, Editor Cincinnati, OH Toledo, OH Hewlett, NY

Esslinger & Co. Richemont NA Witschi Electronics USA, Inc. Bill Esslinger Willem Van Kempen Tony Voight Saint Paul, MN New York, NY Palmyra, NJ

Societe Suisse de Chronometrie Anne Thierrin Neuchatel, Switzerland

November 2003 • Horological Times 47 Advertisers' Index

Borel & Co., Jules ...... 5 Frei & Borel ...... 27 Smith Supply House ...... 21 (816) 421-6110 (510) 832-0355 (213) 622-1687

Butterworth Clocks, Inc ...... 35 GRS Tools ...... 33 Time Connection, Inc ...... 25 (800) 258-5418 (800) 835-3519 (213) 624-2675

Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover S. LaRose, Inc ...... 13 Twin City Supply ...... 17 (513) 674-7700 (336) 621-1936 (952) 545-2725

Chronos/WCR ...... 37 Livesay's, Inc ...... 29 Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp ...... 23 (303) 296-1600 (813) 229-2715 (516) 437-8700

Clocks ...... 39 Max ell Corp ...... back cover Witschi Electronics USA Ltd ...... 19 011 01 31 228 6638 (201) 794-5900 (800) 882-7977

Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover McCaw Co., William S...... 3 (651) 452-7180 (419) 243-3720

Ferrell & Company ...... 25 Primrose Supplies, Inc ...... 31 (213) 627-6031 (801) 485-3908

AWl Employee Directory

James E. Lubic, CMW Nancy L. Wellmann Gary Richards Executive Director Education Coordinator AWl-ELM Charitable Trust Education & Technical Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 303 Development Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 310 nwellmann @awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 315 jlubic@ awi-net.org grichards@ awi-net.org Sharon McManus Lucy Fuleki Membership Coordinator Laurie Penman Assistant Executive Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 302 Clock Instructor 1-866-367-2924 ext. 304 smcmanus@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 318 lfuleki@ awi-net.org Ipenman@ awi-net.org Mary Huff Thomas J. Pack Shipping Coordinator Steve Jones Finance Director 1-866-367-2924 ext. 305 Audiovisual Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 311 mhuff@ awi-net.org 1-866-367-2924 ext. 308 tpack@ awi-net.org sjones@ awi-net.org Heather Kyde Donna K. Baas Receptionist/Secretary American Watchmakers-Ciockmakers Institute 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030 Managing Editor/Advertising Manager 1-866-367-2924 ext. 301 Phone: Toll Free 1·866-367-2924 or (513) 367-9800 1-866-367-2924 ext. 307 hkyde@ awi-net.org Fax: (513) 367-1414 dbaas@ awi-net.org E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.awi-net.org Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:00AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Closed National Holidays

48 Horologicallimes • November 2003 Cas-Ker Spring Bar Assortments y3 e • Our most popular assortments contain 216 stainless spring bars each for only $19.95 Buy any 3 of these Jour assortments, and get a fourth one ofyour choice - Free! Offer good thru the month of this issue of Horological Times.

Our spring bar assortments now come in a handy plastic compartment box with sliding lid

1.30mm Stainless 1.30mm Stainless 1.50mm Stainless 1.80 mm Stainless Double Shoulder Double Flange Double Flange Double Flange 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each size 6 thru 22mm. 12 each size 7 thru 24mm. 12 each size 8 thru 24mm. 1.30mm diameter. 216 total. 1.30mm diameter. 216 pieces. 1.50mm diameter. 216 pieces. 1.80mm diameter. 216 pieces.

900.200 ...... $19. 95 900.085 ...... $19.95 900.086 ...... $19.95 900.144 ...... $19. 95 Refills 1 Size ..... $3.00dz $101100 Refills 1 Size .$3.50dz $7.201100 Refills 1 Size .. $3.50dz $7.20/100 Refills 1 Size .. $3.50dz $9.001100 The best buckles you'll find for leather straps ... in solid stainless steel New heavy steel buckles are made of solid stainless. They are high quality and highly polished. Our starter assortment includes two each 8mm, 12mm and 18mm, and four each 10mm, 14mm and 16mm, eighteen buckles total. $ 900.069 Buckle Asst ...... 19.9 5 Refills ...... $3.00ea 3@$2.50ea 6®$2.00ea 12@$1.50ea Assortment includes 6 popular sizes CALL 1-800-487-0408 Cas·~&LICo. FAX 1-800-487-5848 2550 CIVIC CENTER DR PO BOX 31167 LOCAL PHONE 513/674-7700 FAX 513/674-0600 CINCINNATI OH 45231-0167 Shop our web site: www.casker.com THOSE WHO PUT

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