Wagon Tracks Volume 17 Issue 4 Wagon Tracks Volume 17, Issue 4 (August Article 1 2003)
2003 Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) Santa Fe Trail Association
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SANTA FE TRAIL ASSOCIATION QUARTERLY
VOLUME 17 AUGUST 2003 NUMBER4 INDEPENDENCE: QUEEN CITY OF THE TRAILS SEPTEMBER 7, 2003 DAR MADONNA REDEDICA· by Jane Mallinson TlON AT COUNCIL GROVE, KS [SFTA Ambassador Jane Mallinson SEPTEMBER 24,2003 is a charter member of SFTA and a frequent contributor to WT.] SFTA BOARD MEETING For symposium reservations, KANSAS CITY , please note correct phone INDEPENDENCE, MO, will be one SEPTEMBER 24-28, 2003 number for Days Inn South the host cities for the 2003 sympo of East Motel in Kansas City: sium. While visiting Independence, SFTA SYMPOSIUM noted author David McCullough KANSAS CITY AREA (816) 765-4331 said, "I can't think of another piece of landscape of similar size where so SIX WESTERN CHAPTERS GATHERING AT SANTA FE, JUNE 14-15 many things have happened that by Inez Ross . have been more significant in the ga~a story of America." He was speaking SUr:rNY weather promoted a gathering for the Six Western Chapters of Jackson County, Missouri, and the meetmg, hosted by End of the Trail Chapter. Early arrivals on Friday evening integral part it played in westward attended the Ghost Walk Extraordinaire led by Donna Padilla into the . . expanSlOlllsm. haunted corners around the Santa Fe Plaza. As she told each tale a "ghost" appeared attired in its earthly garb. ' Previous to 1775, the entire conti nent of North America was divided At Saturday's registration in the Palace of the Governors, New Mexico among France, England, Spain, and authors offered and signed their Trail books. In the patio guests were wel Russia. The area now known as comed by EoT President Pam Najdowski and Fran Levine, Director ofthe Pal Jackson County, by earliest records, ace Museum. Levine and Archaeologist Stephen Post explained the museum was claimed by the French, and then expansion and the continuing digs at the rear of the complex. acquired by Spain in 1763. It was . Mike Najdowski led a bus group to view the Trail crossings on the south ceded back to France and became a s~de of Santa F.e and the new ?FT.sculpture which features a wagon drawn by part of the territory purchased from SIX mules and mcludes four hfe-size human figures. Napoleon by the United States in On the half-mile hike down Apache Ridge toward Canoncito, Mike chose a 1803. rougher arroyo than planned, giving the group some extra exercise and a The "Province of Louisiana" con chance to tease him about getting lost on the Trail. tained Missouri, which was desig The delicious dinner at the Presbyterian Church that evening was graced nated as a territory in June 1812, (continued on page 3) and admitted to the Union as a state in August 1821. Jackson County was named in honor of Andrew Jackson, the seventh president of the United States. Serving as highway for transpor tation, the Kansas (or Kaw) and Mis souri rivers exerted a vital influence on growth and prosperity within the county. The first settlements were at Sibley (near Fort Osage), Independ ence, and Westport. All were located near timber and within easy travel ing distance to water. Sibley was on the Missouri River, and Independ ence had big springs. Rivers repre sent an exciting part of the nation's past. Before the hoof and the rail road replaced water highways, river (continued on page /8) SFTA hikers climb down the arroyo at Apache Ridge, June 14.
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PRESIDENT'S COLUMN All matters relating to Wagon WAGON TRACKS is the official Tracl?s should be directed to SFTA publication of the Santa Fe Trail am writing my message somewhat Editor Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, ~sso.ciation, a nonprofit organiza I Woodston KS 67675. tIOn mcorporated under the laws of earlier than usual because I'm Toll-free Phone: (888) 321-7341 the State of Colorado. Letters and headed into Mexico for a few weeks. I FAX: (785) 425-6865 articles are welcome, but they be will be researching the Camino Real E-Mail:
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1~_..-;;B..;;;,En.;..;..;.Y .;;;,B.;.;,;RA;..;;D;;.,;D;;,.O;;,.C,;;.;.;"K__I DONOR HONOR ROLL form for donations to SFTA was Betty (Cobb) Braddock, retired A included in the last issue and will be director of the Kansas Heritage a regular insert in WT. Those who Center in Dodge City, died June 11, contribute will be recognized. Spe 2003, following surgery in Rochester, cial thanks is extended to the follow Minnesota. She was 80 years old. ing for recent donations: She was a charter member of SFTA and founding member of the Dodge Milton and Bette Dobkin City/Fort Dodge/Cimarron Chapter. Beverly Jackson A native of Dodge City and graduate Laura Jackson of St. Mary of the Plains College Leone and Robert Moore there, Betty was a teacher for many Mary Morton Don Alberts explains the confrontation years in Dodge City elementary at Glorieta Pass at the site of the battle NPS SHARES AWARD WITH as Curtiss Frank listens. schools and then served as assistant TRAIL ASSOCIATIONS director of the Kansas Heritage SIX WESTERN CHAPTERS Center, 1968-1982, and director, J ERE Krakow, superintendent of • 1982-1992. She continued to visit the National Trails System Office in (continued from page 1) and volunteer at the Heritage Cen Santa Fe, recently announced that by the presence of Dona Tules in a ter after retirement. his office was awarded this year's In lively retelling of her life, accompa Dave Webb, assistant director at termountain Region Garrison Gold nied by music" singing, dancing, and the Heritage Center, wrote these Award. This is an internal National banter with the audience. VanAnn words about her: "Under Betty's di Park System award for the best over Moore was the performer. rection, the Kansas Heritage Center all interpretive program. The nomi On Sunday Mike Najdowski led broadened its focus from being pri nation was based on the total the car caravan to the Civil War bat marily a library and resource center program for both the Santa Fe Trail tlefield sites of Apache Canon and to become also a retail sales outlet and Trail of Tears. The award in Glorieta, where Don Alberts, histo with learning supplies for schools cludes a pottery storyteller by Mary rian and author, explained the and libraries, as well as a publisher and Leonard Trujillo from Cochiti events of the battle called "The Get of materials relating to Kansas and Pueblo and $2,000 for the interpre tysburg of the West." The lecture on the Old West. Our research files are tive budget. the narrow busy road proved the ne crowded with information Betty Supt. Krakow has graciously cessity of continuing our push to re gathered, our bookshelves are full of shared this award, presenting locate Highway 50 and preserve the books she selected, but her enduring $1,000 to the Santa Fe Trail Associa battlefield site. legacy here will surely be 'Betty's tion and $1,000 to the Trail of Tears At Pecos National Historic Park Notes.' Compiled from thousands of Association. Congratulations and Superintendent Dennis Ditmanson notations Betty made as she read thanks are extended to Krakow and and Ranger Lorenzo Vigil showed copies of Dodge City's newspapers, his staff. the ruts and explained Trail sites. this database is often the first source The day ended with a visit to San we check when questions arise about PARTICIPANTS SOUGHT FOR Miguel del Vado, the village where early Dodge City. Currently, there SYMPOSIUM BOOK EXHIBIT the wagons crossed the Pecos River. are over 6,200 pages in her "Notes," by Dorothy Kroh Everyone declared the weekend a covering a time frame from the late (Dorothy Kroh is book exhibit coordi grand success with seeing old ... 1870s to 1930. As we discover addi nator for the symposium.) friends, meeting new ones, and tional pertinent information, we pe learning more about the Trail. riodically add to her work." You are invited to be a part of the .. She is fondly remembered by Leo ever-popular Book Room Sales Dis Oliva, who served as a consultant to play. Reservations for participation the Kansas Heritage Center for sev should be placed with Dorothy Kroh, eral publication projects and taught 8812 West 6th St, Shawnee Mission, a number of workshops for teachers KS 66202 or e-mail to kroh@ there during Betty's tenure. She planetkc.com. Questions, phone 913 I 722-4241. • I· i loved history, encouraged its study, I .. ' and made the resources of the Heri Submit name, address, zip code, I tage Center available for teachers, phone, e-mail, FAX.. Request the students, and the general public. She number of tables you desire and ad was an authority on the rich history ditional space for displays. Reserva of Dodge City. tions are limited to space available, Condolences are extended to her so reserve early. There will be no' family and friends. Memorials may charge for tables; but you are asked be sent to the Kansas Heritage to donate two items to the SFTAAuc Center, PO Box 1207, Dodge City KS tion, proceeds to benefit the SFTA VanAnn Moore as Dona Yules. 67801. Scholarship Fund.
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WOLVES, COYOTES, AND ROADRUNNERS ON THE SANTA FE TRAIL by Phyllis Morgan [This is fifth in a series about wildlife about wolves following their wagons. on the Trail by SFTA member Mor They would usually lope along be gan. She extends thanks to Wyman hind the caravans at a safe distance, Meinzer for permission to use his coy having learned early to stay out ofri ote photograph. Next topic in this se fle range. In 1850, John James Cle ries will be mustangs on the Trail.] minson traveled with his wife, Lydia GREENHORNS taking their first Ann, and six children in a wagon trip with trading caravans on the train of emigrants headed over the Santa Fe Trail may have had little Trail from Independence, Missouri. knowledge of the differences be Their final destination, San Diego, tween wolves and coyotes when they California, was safely reached after first started out. It would not be long, a grueling trip lasting three days however, before they could distin short of a year. Cleminson wrote in guish between the two species. Wild his journal at Lower Cimarron members of the large dog family Spring on August 31, 1850: "There Canidae, these canids were found are on the plains a great number of across the North American prairies, wolves. They are around us every particularly on the buffalo ranges. day more or less, and sometimes come quite near to our wagons."5 The gray wolf (Canis lupus), or Mexican lobo, was emblematic of the In· 1831 Albert Pike, traveling open prairies. Like the buffalo, ante with a caravan led by Charles Bent, noted the abundance ofwolves on the lope, prairie dogs, and other animals Gray Wolf. of the plains, wolves were found in Trail. He wrote, "Our oxen, from incredible numbers. Also like the were seen insolently trotting along hunger and drought, began to fail, buffalo, they were almost hunted to the ridges, everyone knew that the an~ we were, every day or two, extinction. Formidable predators, herds could not be far off. Every man obhged to leave one behind us. The they roamed great distances hunting in the caravan felt his blood begin to hungryjaws ofthe white wolves soon buffalo and other large mammals heat with buffalo fever."z caused them to disappear from the along the Santa Fe Trail. They live The gray wolf, although generally face of the earth, and by thus afford and hunt in family groups, or packs, gray in color, may also be white, ing these voracious animals food, we in a social order called a dominance brown, or black. Trail travelers had a continual train of lean, lank hierarchy. Adult males weigh from wrote about seeing both gray and and gaunt followers, resembling 75 to 110 pounds, measure 5 to 6Yz white wolves and about their large Hunger-demons, following us steal feet long (tail included), and stand numbers. James Ross Larkin of St. thily by day, and howling around us 212 feet tall at the shoulder. Adult fe Louis, like a number of young men of by night." Pike continued, "Our oxen males are smaller than males.! his time, took the Trail west to seek a were daily decreasing in number, and our train of wolves enlarging. I The presence of large numbers of cure for his ailments. He made a note can give the reader some idea oftheir wolves on the prairies indicated to in his "memorandum book" on Octo number and voracity, by informing Trail travelers that buffalo were also ber 6, 1856: "Wolves-white & gray him that one night, just at sunset we close by. Stanley Vestal described ranging about the prairies in plenty."3 Almost two years later, on killed six buffaloes, and having time the scene in the heart of the buffalo to butcher and take to camp only country inhis book The Old Santa Fe September 30, 1858, gold-seeker David Kellogg, on his way to Colo three, we left the other three on the Trail (1939). "Far and wide, on every ground, skinned and in part cut up. hand, the sign of those majestic ani rado, wrote in his diary at Cow Creek: "Caught some fish in this The next morning there was not a mals was to be seen, and at all sea hide, a bone, or a bit of meat, within sons. Everywhere the short grass stream. The country well watered fifty yards of the place. "6 was dotted with dried buffalo chips. and grass luxuriant. Buffalo and Everywhere the turf was criss their attendants, big white wolves, An earlier Pike, Zebulon Mont crossed by narrow trails leading to very plentiful."" Other Trail observ gomery on his 1806 expedition to the and from the river. Everywhere ers mentioned seeing packs com Southwest, said little about wolves, bleaching bone, broad skulls, and posed entirely of white wolves. As b~t he recorded a method his party hoary, flaking horns marked the time passed and the Trail became trIed to prevent wolves from taking sites where savage hunters or more more and more heavily traveled, their game. On October 15, 1806, savage wolves had thrown their prey only gray wolves were mentioned in near Walnut Creek in present Kan to earth. Everywhere the soil had travelers' journals and diaries. The sas, Pike wrote: "Killed two buffalo been scooped into shallow, saucer white wolves seem to have disap and left part of our clothing with like depressions by wallowing bison. peared. There is no explanation in them to scare away the wolves." The .. in any season, those wallows were the literature, including biological next day, when they returned to the an unfailing sign that buffalo ranged literature, for this occurrence. buffalo, Pike noted that the human the country. And now, as gray wolves Travelers on the Trail often wrote scent was ineffective: "found a great
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many wolves at them, notwithstand catch his horse Paint, "an animal rounded by a pack of snarling ing the precaution taken to keep given to all sorts of malicious dodg wolves, were all they found."12 them off." They dined on what re- ing." Garrard recounted in his classic Edwards expressed the belief malne. d", some marrow b,,7ones. account Wah-to- Yah and the Taos held, or observation made, by a William N. Byers, co-publisher of Trail (1850): "... a band of buffalo number of Trail travelers that the Rocky Mountain News, wrote ran across our path with two hun wolves would not attack human be from Fort Aubry (established in the dred or more large wolves, who, with ings. Josiah Gregg, for instance, fall of 1865) after arriving in an east outstretched necks and uplifted stated in Commerce on the Prairies bound stagecoach from Bent's Fort sharp heads, were in sure, noiseless, (1844): "I have never known these in January 1866. He described how though swift pursuit. It was a mag animals, rapacious as they are, [to] the "excessively cold" weather and nificent sight to watch them dashing extend their attacks to man, though deep snow had forced wagon trains along-the poor buffalo straining they probably would if very hungry to lay up for the winter along the Au their utmost to elude the sharp fangs and a favorable opportunity pre bry and Cimarron roads to Fort Un of their persecutors-the wolves gain sented itself."13 A few men, however, ion and Santa Fe. Some freighters ing at every stride. On they went, told of very close encounters with had lost as many as two-thirds of now out of sight, now in the river, wolves on the prairies. For example, • their cattle. He added: "Wolves fol where the buffalo had the advan Captain James McClure walked low and hang about the buffalo herds tage; a cool swim invigorated the ahead of his supply train, only to be in incredible numbers."s pursuers, who, loping with dripping chased back by wolves. "I wiU never Another trail letter was written hair, howled, as they pressed on to forget the terrible ordeal," he later victory. ,,10 by Dr. Michael Steck on December declared, "and the relief I felt when I 11, 1852, after reaching Santa Fe. After butchering a buffalo where found myself safe from their He had left Independence on October it had fallen, Garrard related: "Load fangs.'o14 Even Gregg had an encoun 10, 1852, to assume his post in New ing our animals with choice pieces of ter with a gray wolf, although it was Mexico as agent for the Mescalero the tender cow, we left for the Trail, not as threatening as McClure's, and Apaches. His small party of 23 peo much to the apparent satisfaction of he admitted that he had been the one ple traveled in mostly inclement some wolves, loping and howling or to make the first challenge. weather in three mule-drawn car sitting on their haunches, seemingly Richens Lacy "Uncle Dick" Woot riages with three wagons for bag resolved to bide their time. Looking ton detested the wolves who pestered gage and provisions and several ani back, after we left a short distance, him, although he did not fear they mals for riding. Describing their we saw them fighting, with their would attack him. He recalled, progress toward Fort Atkinson (lo tails whisking about quite lively, in "When hunting buffalo, I have sat cated on the Arkansas River west of the struggle for 'spoils.'''ll many a time all night by a blazing present Dodge City), Dr. Steck Frank Edwards, a Missouri fire, throwing the red-hot brands wrote: "We continued on ... without Mounted Volunteer in the Mexican every now and then at a pack of anything to interrupt us except an American War, recounted in his book wolves, to keep them from stealing occasional squall of snow. We killed A Campaign in New Mexico with the game which I had slaughtered." several Buffalo and occasionally a Colonel Doniphan (1847): "Large He noted one incident when "there Wolf when we thought he showed too gray wolves abound in all parts of must have been hundreds of the vi much impudence. They are generally the prairies and in Mexico, but par cious brutes in the pack that kept me shy, but we see immense numbers of ticularly about the buffalo range. company all night. They would come them. A common thing to see [is] 50 They are generally seen in packs, so close that I could see their eyes at a sight and in the region of the and will scent fresh meat or blood at shining like balls of fire in the dark Buffalo. In the daytime, never out of a great distance (as much as a mile ness, and all the time they kept up a sight ofthem, see hundreds in a day. or more); and being exceedingly cow snapping and snarling which would They live upon the Buffalo, the ardly they never attack man-and have set a man crazy who did not [calves] and old ones. They select unless driven by hunger will not kill know what cowardly brutes they [one to run down], surround it and any animal, preferring dead car were." Wootton stated he did not keep snapping it in the hind leg until casses. It was almost impossible to usually waste ammunition to kill they hamstring it. This accom get any sleep during the night after wolves, but that time "I killed three plished, they get him down and fre we had killed any cattle, as these or four during the night and the dead quently in an hour devour the larg animals would assemble around our wolves were at once torn to pieces est Buffalo. ,,9 camp, and, sitting upon their and devoured by the balance of the Lured by the account of John C. haunches, howl in the most mourn dirty gang of cannibals. They Fremont's tour to the Rockies in ful manner all night long. Captain sneaked away just before daylight 1842 and 1843, 17-year-old Lewis Fisher having been obliged to leave a came in the morning, but they had Garrard, started out as a greenhorn sick horse behind one morning, sent given me a might lively all-night in 1846. With youthful exuberance, back two men to kill him about an serenade."l~ he quickly took to the life of the fron hour afterwards, his feelings for his The wolfs four fangs at the front tiersman and became a full-fledged tried steed making him wish to spare of the mouth may be as long as two member of the buffalo-hunting par him further suffering. When the two inches from root to tip and are spe ty-once he was able to figure out men reached the spot where he had cialized for grabbing, wounding, and some essential skills, such as how to been left, a few picked bones, sur- killing prey. The other 38 teeth per-
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form other specific functions, includ earthquake would have disturbed abling the animals themselves."2o ing sharp side teeth to cut tough him. As I slept lightly and wakened On his way to Colorado, Ruxton muscle and flat teeth in the back of easily, I always kept my boots and was followed for days by a lone wolf, the mouth to crush bone so that it my only pony bridle under my head, "a large grey wolf': "Every evening, can be swallowed easily. in order that I might be prepared for as soon as we got into camp, he made An incident involving a wolfin the any emergency that might arise. I his appearance, squatting quietly 1860s was told by Theodore Wei had just fallen asleep, when I felt down at a little distance, and after chselbaum in his recollections of ex something move under my head. I we had turned in for the night help periences as a merchant on the put up my hand: one ofthe boots and ing himself to anything lying about. Santa Fe Trail: "In one of my con the bridle were gone. I sprang up in Our first acquaintance commenced tracts out at Fort Larned, I hired time to see in the dim light, the out on the prairie where I had killed two [James M.] Harvey and his ox team. line ofa large wolf, but the yell I gave antelope, and the excellent dinner he He was with me thirty days on the must have disconcerted his wolfship, then made, on the remains of the two trip. I saved his life near Larned. A for he ran, leaving the boot and bri carcasses, had evidently attached large white wolf frothing at the dle. My companion knew nothing of him to our society. In the morning, as mouth had attacked him when I hap it the next morning, and but for the soon as we left the camp, he took pos pened to be near. I drew my revolver condition of my property, would have session, and quickly ate up the rem and killed the wolf."16 Years later, kept on insisting that it was all 'a nants of our supper and some little Harvey would become governor of bootless dream.' I had no fancy, how extras I always took care to leave for Kansas. The attacking wolf could ever, to ride into Fort Union on a him. Shortly afterhe would trot after possibly have been rabid, and as any pony wearing a rope bridle, myself us, and, if we halted for a short time one on the prairie knew, a rabid ani minus one boot, and I praised the to adjust the mule-packs or water mal, whether wild or domesticated, Fates that I had recovered my confis the animals, he sat down quietly un was apt to attack and kill a human cated goods."ls til we resumed our march. But when being-or inflict a wound that would A young British adventurer, I killed an antelope, and was in the cause the injured person to suffer a George Frederick Ruxton, chronicled act of butchering it, he gravely horrible, painful death from hydro his travels from Mexico through EI looked on, or loped round and round, phobia. Paso, across New Mexico, and into licking his jaws, and in a state of evi That happened at Fort Larned in Colorado in his celebrated book Ad dent self-gratulation. I had him August 1868 when a rabid wolf in ventures in Mexico and the Rocky twenty times a day within reach of vaded the post and attacked several Mountains (1847). Continually am my rifle, but he became such an old people, including Corporal Mike azed at the brazen boldness and sa friend that I never dreamed of mo McGuillicuddy, who was a patient in gacity of wolves and coyotes, he re lesting him.,m A century later, the post hospital. The other victims called camping along "a stream in a Southwestern folklorist and author were treated by the post surgeon and thickly-timbered bottom that was J. Frank Dobie commented on Rux survived, but Corporal McGuilli soon infested with wolves": "... I ton's sympathy toward the lone wolf: cuddy refused to have a torn finger could scarcely leave my saddles for a "No American contemporary of Rux amputated, and he died from hydro few minutes on the ground without ton's on the frontier would have re phobia a month later. A dog at the finding the straps of raw hide sisted killing that wolf."22 post was also bitten by the wolf and gnawed to pieces; and one night the There are few references to hunt died from hydrophobia.17 hungry brutes ate up all the ropes ing wolves in Trail literature, but Considering the overwhelming which were tied on the necks of the their pelts were valuable in the fur numbers of wolves, they seldom animals and trailed along the trade. Most of the wolf hunts were threatened the lives of travelers on ground. [The ropes] were actually conducted by hunters rather than the Trail. Nevertheless, wolves could devoured to within a yard of the Trail travelers, and there were hunt be very troublesome, adding to the mules'throats."19 ers on the Trail. James J. Webb, a annoyances faced by travelers along In Life in the Far West (1849), his prominent merchant engaged in the their routes. An "annoying" situation highly-acclaimed account of moun trade with New Mexico who recorded was caused by a wolf when Hezekiah tain men and the fur trade, Ruxton his recollections, gave the following Brake took the Trail in 1858 to the observed: "Wolves are so common on description of hunting wolves: "To Fort Union area where he became a the plains and in the mountains, give some idea of the numbers of manager of a dairy. Brake wrote that the hunter never cares to throw wolves on the prairie in the buffalo about it in a narrative of his experi away a charge of ammunition upon range, I will give an account of two ences: "We crossed the Cimarron them, although the ravenous ani men formerly conductors of the mail that night and drank a cup oftea on mals are a constant source of annoy from Independence to Santa Fe. I the opposite bank. Wrapped in our ance to him, creeping to the camp think it was in 1854 or 1855 they blankets, we lay down as usual to fire at night and gnawing his saddles went to Walnut creek and built a sleep, but something kept me awake: and apishamores [saddle blankets small mud fort, and in summer they I did not know but what it might be made of buffalo-calf skin], eating the would sell what few knickknacks prairie dog or antelope [his dinner]. skin ropes which secure the horses they could to traders and other pass Louis [a member of his party] was and mules to their pickets, and even ing travelers, and in winter their the sleepiest headed of mortals. their very hobbles, and not unfre business was to kill wolves for the Once asleep, nothing short of an quently [sic] killing or entirely dis- skins. They would kill a buffalo and
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cut the meat in small pieces and ful slide from a high note to one down scatter it about in all directions a an octave or more. The howl of the half a mile or so from camp, and so coyote, heard particularly at dawn bait the wolves for about two days. and dusk, was considered more "me Meantime, all hands were preparing lodious" by some. Garrard described meat in pieces about two inches their "song": "For the first night or square, cutting a slit in the middle two after entering the buffalo region, and opening it and putting a quan we were serenaded· by the coyote tity of strychnine in the center and wolf, a species of music much like a closing the parts upon it. When a suf commingled bark, whine, yelp, and ficient amount was prepared, and occasionally a spasmodic laugh, now the wolves were well baited, they tenor, now basso; then one would would put out the poisoned meat. take a treble solo, and, after an ear One morning after putting out the piercing prelude, all would join in poison, they picked up sixty-four chorus, making an indescribable dis wolves, and none of them over a mile cord. ,,26 and half from camp. The proceeds Marion Russell remembered hear from that winter's hunt were over ing the howling of coyotes during her four thousand dollars.,,~3 travels over the Trail in the 1850s Countless travelers wrote about and 1860s, when she was a young Coyote howling (photo courtesy of Wy the howling of wolves and coyotes. girl in the company of her mother man Meinzer). Larkin was among the numbers who and brother: "While most of the driv recorded their dislike for the noise: ers slept under the wagons, the barking dog) is smaller and less pow "Wolves howling & crying near our women and children slept inside the erful than his fearsome relative. Fre camp makes a hideous noise.,,24 The wagons or in tents. Each night we quently called the prairie wolfor coy adjective "hideous" seems to be the pitched the tent close to the wagon ote wolf by frontiersmen, the coyote word of choice among Trail travelers and it spread its dark wings over the was also known as the prairie jackal. in their descriptions of the howling, three of us.... I would awaken to Adult males on the plains are which caused many sleepless hours hear the coyote's eerie cry in the about 4 feet long (includes tail about and nights for travelers along the darkness. I would creep close to 14 inches long), stand about 2 feet at Trail, or at least until the fatigue mother and shiver. Sometimes one of the shoulder, and weigh about 25 to from the long days' journeys, some the mules would start a great bray 40 pounds.29 Most live alone or in times extending until late after dark, ing, and others would take it up pairs, although they may form a inured them to the nightly "sere making the night hideous."27 pack of three to eight members. On nades." Years later in the 1910s when the the buffalo range during Trail days, Edwards told about an ear federal government and others were they fed on the remains of carcasses offending incident caused by a wolf waging a war of extermination left by wolves or men. They prey on while he was standing as sentinel on against coyotes on all fronts, the smaller mammals, such as prong the outer side of his company's great naturalist Ernest Thompson horn, goats, sheep, and cattle, in par horses at Big Timber on the Arkan Seton wrote in his Wild Animals at ticular the young or infirm, and on sas: "I was leaning upon my carbine, Home (1917): "I must confess that if rabbits and rodents, including prai with my back to a small ravine along by any means they should succeed in rie dogs, gophers, mice, and rats. the edge of which my post extended exterminating the Coyote in the They also eat a variety of reptiles and my mind in a quiet reverie, West, I should feel that I had lost and insects. Well-known for their when, suddenly, from behind a bush, something of very great value. I taste for chicken, other fowl or birds not three feet from me, a big gray never fail to get that joyful thrill will do for a meal. They will eat what wolf set up his dismal cry uncon when the "Medicine Dogs" sing their is available in their environment or scious of my presence. It, annoy "Medicine Song" in the dusk, or the in season, such as juniper berries, ingly, took me by surprise;-snatch equally weird and thrilling chorus mesquite beans, watermelons, and ing up a stone, I hurled it after his with which they greet the dawn; for other fruit. J. Frank Dobie once com howling wolfship as he dashed pre they have a large repertoire and a re mented: "The coyote's favorite food is cipitately down the ravine. I would markable register. ,,28 Researchers anything he can chew; it does not have given something to have been who study coyotes believe they howl have to be digestible.",go allowed to shoot him, but as orders for several reasons: to communicate James Brice, employed as a mail were to shoot nothing of less size with other coyotes; as a warning to carrier on the Santa Fe Trail in the than an Indian, I dared not alarm other coyotes; and to announce a 1860s, described in his Trail remini& the camp by a shot.,,25 It was custom weather change-studies point to a cences how a few coyotes brought ary for Trail companies to have a falling barometer as a cause of howl down a buffalo: "When I was conduc regulation that no one could fire a ing. Some are convinced that coyotes tor running with the mail, I saw gun in or around camp unless one's also do it for pure enjoyment. three coyotes attack a lone buffalo on life or the safety of the company de Although able to compete with the the Arkansas, opposite Fort Mann. pended on it. gray wolfin noise-making, the coyote One kept jumping at his head as if The wolfs howl has a long, mourn- (Canis latrans, literally meaning trying to catch his nose and two kept
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jumping at his hamstrings until they on, waiting patiently for some centuries, roadrunners (Geococcyx severed them. Then he became pow chance offal to be cast outside."s4 californianus) are ground-dwelling erless, falling down, and they According to Vestal, coyotes also birds belonging to the cuckoo family pounced upon his body and began to gave "good sport" on the Trail for Cuculidae. They have been given a devour him."S! "the hunters who would ride a little variety of names over the years: the Coyotes were also observed taking ahead of the caravan, with their chaparral, or chaparral cock; the turns running down larger prey. In hounds at heel": "... in chasing coyo prairie pheasant; the ground cuckoo; his descriptions of "'the cayeute' of tes the hunter had to ride hard, that snake killer or lizard killer; paisano the mountain men, the 'wach animal not being given to silly tricks (Spanish for fellow countryman or unkamnet' or 'medicine wolf of the like waiting on his enemies. He was compatriot), and corre camino (Span Indians, who hold this animal in rev gone to cover, and generally quite lit ish for "runs the road"). Among these erential awe," Ruxton stated: "[The erally 'gone away,' before the horse and other names, paisano has been cayeute], whose fur is of great thick men came near enough to see any one of the most popular and is still ness and beauty, although of diminu thing of the chase. .. .',35 Vestal commonly used in parts ofthe South tive size, is wonderfully sagacious, added that this "sport" was too hard west and in Mexico. and makes up by cunning what it on their horses during the hot sum Measuring about two feet long, wants in physical strength. In bands mer. half their length is tail feathers of from three to thirty, they will not Once living only on the plains of which assist them in rapid braking. unfrequently [sic] station them western North America, coyotes now Unlike their cuckoo cousins, they do selves along the 'run' of the deer and live throughout most of the United not fly long distances, although they antelope, extending their line for States. Their range, unlike the glide, or volplane, very well. It is on many miles-and the quarry being ranges of many animals of the the ground where they excel. Long, started, each will follow in pursuit plains, has significantly increased. sturdy legs and a streamlined body until tired, when it relinquishes the Their incredible adaptability has and tail give them the ability to chase to another relay, following been an important factor in their maintain 15 miles per hour for a run s8 slowly after until the animal is fairly survival and the expansion of their ning distance of 300 yards. Walk run down, when all hurry to the spot range under seemingly impossible ing stride measures 6 to 8 inches, and speedily consume the carcass."S2 odds. They live in many types of lengthening to 20 inches when run Ruxton continued: "The cayeute, habitat today-deserts, plains, moun ning, with head, body, and tail however, is often made a tool of by tains, woodlands, suburban and ur stretched out almost as straight as his larger brethren, unless, indeed, ban areas. an arrow. Like all cuckoos, roadrun he acts from motives of spontaneous While many travelers loathed ners' feet are zygodactyl, meaning charity. When a hunter has slaugh wolves and some were not particu two toes point forward and two point tered game, and is in the act of laxly fond of coyotes (although Vestal backward. Their strange tracks have butchering it, [the cayeute] sits pa opined that "most men on the Trail added to the mystique surrounding tiently at a short distance from the had a sneaking fondness for the coy them over the centuries. scene of operations, while at a more ote"36), most were pleased to encoun American Indians, in particular respectful one the large wolves (the ter roadrunners. Considered a sym Pueblo Indians, have long consid white or gray), lope hungrily around, bol of good luck by many in the ered the roadrunner a bird of great licking their chops in hungry expec Southwest and Mexico, they were magic, a "medicine bird" or "war tation. Not unfrequently [sic] the frequently seen on the Trail, espe bird," symbolizing bravery, strength, hunter throws a piece of meat to cially in New Mexico, where they are and endurance. Stories have long wards the smaller one, who seizes it now the state bird. Their range ex been told, first by Indians and Mexi immediately, and runs off with the tends across the Southwest from cans and later by frontiersmen and morsel in his mouth. Before he gets central Texas to California and in settlers, of the roadrunner's courage many yards with his prize, the large southern Kansas, southeastern Col and ability to attack and kill rattle wolf pounces with a growl upon him,. orado, and parts of Oklahoma. snakes. For years, those stories were and the cayeute, dropping the meat, Roadrunners got their name from not believed by scientists until they returns to his former position and racing down trails and roads ahead had witnessed for themselves the will continue his charitable act as of horses and wagons, seeming to skill used by roadrunners, some long as the hunter pleases to supply challenge those behind them to a times working in pairs, to kill a rat him."ss When meat was available, race, and then darting like a flash tlesnake. The roadrunner crouches the wolf, capable of killing a coyote into the brush. Marion Russell re low, circling the snake, and drops his with one crush ofits jaws, always ate membered seeing them when she wings to test the snake's quickness. first. traveled the Trail: "Birds with long When the snake strikes, the road In his vivid description of Bent's tails would walk the trail before us; runner leaps out of the way, and Fort, visited in the spring of 1847, walk upright and faster than our then immediately leaps forward, Ruxton noted the presence of coyo mules could walk. The drivers called grabbing the rattler by the head. In a tes: "Outside the fort, at any hour of them road-runners.',s7 Travelers es flurry of activity, the snake is killed the day or night, one may safely wa pecially enjoyed this colorful bird's and swallowed head first. Usually, ger to see a dozen coyotes, or prairie fascinating behavior, hunting antics, the roadrunner will not attack a wolves, loping round, or seated on and curiosity about human activity. snake over two feet long. their haunches, and looking gravely The subject of legend and lore for The largest part of a roadrunner's
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diet is composed of a variety of in Mexico Press, 1996), 14. sects, in particular grasshoppers and 13. Josiah Gregg, Commerce of the Prairies (1844; reprint, Norman: University of crickets. It also eats lizards and Oklahoma Press, 1959),375. smaller rodents, such as mice and 14. Marc Simmons, "New Mexico Scrap rats, which are beaten on a rock or book" column, 'Wolves Make a 'How!' of hard surface to make them easier to a Subject," EI Defensor Chieftain [So swallow whole. They have been corro, NM], 10 January 1998, 4. 15. Howard Louis Conard. "Uncle Dick" found to be good mousers; Josiah Wootton: The Pioneer Frontiersman of Gregg mentioned this in his descrip ~"-- ""'':''0. __ the Rocky Mountain Region (1890; re tions of wild birds: "There is to be ~ print, Lincoln: University of Nebraska found in Chihuahua and other "~' '. Press. 1980), 90-91. southern districts a very beautiful Roadrunner. 16. 'Theodore Weichselbaum: Trail Mer chant, Part II." Wagon Tracks 6 (February bird calledpaisano (literally 'countr central plot of the popularized car 1992): 14-15. • yman'), which when domesticated, toon series...." August 2003 Wagon Trachs 9 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 9 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 PAWNEE RIVER CROSSINGS ON THE SANTA FE TRAIL by David K. Clapsaddle [SFTA Ambassador David Clapsad somewhere along the river in 1847.6 Mexican War. Arriving at the Paw dle, Larned, KS, is a freq uent con Rufus Sage wrote that Indians called nee on July 15, Kearny found 1200 tributor to WT. This is another in his the river Otter Creek "because of the men held up because of high water. occasional series on stream crossings great number of those animals found On the following day, the resourceful on the Trail.} upon it."7 colonel ordered that trees be felled across the river to serve as foot THE Pawnee River has its source in By whatever name, the stream, its 15 northwest Gray County, Kansas, confluence with the Arkansas River, bridges for the soldiers. On the and flows north into Finney County and the crossing at that point com same day, Lieutenant William H. and east through Hodgeman County bined to make a notable landmark on Emory, topographical engineer, fer before veering northeast to the the Santa Fe Trail. Such repute was ried his equipment across the swol southeast corner of Ness County. derived, in part, from the timber len Pawnee by way of a raft. 2nd From that point, the stream returns which populated the Pawnee. Con Lieutenant J. W. Albert's watercolor southeast to Hodgeman County and trasted with the nearby Arkansas painting of that event shows the and its straggly stand of cotton Pawnee Crossing to be situated in a proceeds eastward through Pawnee 16 County to Larned. There, the woods, the Pawnee had an extensive well-timbered copse. Pawnee completes its 100-mile jour growth of several species. Camping Also ofnote were the high banks of ney and empties into the Arkansas near the confluence on September 1, the Pawnee. In 1825, Sibley de River. In the historic period, the 1825, George C. Sibley noted the tim scribed the Pawnee near its mouth Pawnee's confluence with the Arkan ber as follows, "Elm, Ash, Elder, Cot as "forty yards wide, banks pretty sas was located near the present US ton Tree, Willow, and Grape Vines." high, bottom sandy."n The steep Hwy 56 bridge at the south edge of On the same day, Sibley rode to the banks made the Pawnee Crossing Larned. Later, the fickle Arkansas top. of a ridge overlooking both the one of the most treacherous in the changed its course, and today the Arkansas and Pawnee valleys. He entire length of the Santa Fe Trail, rivers merge several hundred yards wrote, "I could distinctly trace the as the following two examples illus east of the nineteenth-century con course of the Pawnee River for a trate. fluence. 1 great distance by the fringe of trees On his first trip to Santa Fe in Officially designated the Pawnee along its banks."s 1844, James Josiah Webb observed, River, early settlers in the region Such timber did not go unnoticed. "The second day after, we arrived at called the stream Pawnee Creek to When Fort Atkinson was suffering Pawnee Fork, and, as the crossing distinguish it from the Arkansas through its first winter (1850-1851) was very difficult, we concluded to River. The tradition still persists. with the nearest tree growth twelve turn out, repair the road, and pre Spaniards knew the river as Rio de miles distant, Captain William Hoff. pare for crossing the next morning. Pananas. 2 Anglos called the stream man, the commanding officer, recom The east bank must be from twenty Vulture Creek in the early 1800s.3 mended that the post be relocated on to thirty feet above the water and Later, Pawnee Fork became the com the Pawnee River where timber was very steep - so much so, that we were 9 mon designation. Matt Field wrote, readily available. That move did not compelled to lock both hind wheels, "The place is called' by traders take place; but in 1859, Camp on hitch a yoke of good wheelers to the Pawnee Fork from its being an Pawnee Fork, Fort Larned's prede hind axle, and all the men that can abrupt elbow or point of land form cessor, was established about six be used to advantage to assist in ing a turn in Pawnee Creek."4 Field miles upstream from the mouth of holding back and prevent the wagon lO was mistaken about fork. Fork has the Pawnee. Henry Stanley, a cor from turning over. Even with all reference to the Pawnee's tributarial respondent with the Hancock Expe these precautions, accidents fre relationship to the Arkansas, not to dition of 1867 observed "patriarchal quently happen, and the descent is the configuration of the river chan trees" near Fort Larned." Lieuten so rapid the teams get doubled up nel. Pawnee Fork was the common ant M. R. Brown, the expedition's en and oxen run over. The next morning designation of this stream during gineer, sketched a line of trees on we began crossing; and when the Trail days. both sides of the river as he docu wagons were about half across, one There were other names. During mented the expeditions itinerary up of Wethered's wagons turned over the 1852 reconnaissance of the stream along the Pawnee.'2 into the stream. The west bank was Pawnee Valley, Lieutenant Israel Other evidence of the timber steep but not so high as the east one. Woodruff labeled the stream as the along this stream is derived from the Yet we had to double teams to get out north branch of the Pawnee River sawmill constructed by Fort Larned and make a short and very difficult and named it Heth's branch in honor personnel some four miles west of turn up the stream; so the wagon fell of 2nd Lieutenant Henry Heth then present Rozel in 1861'3 and the toll into deep water, and bottom up. All stationed at Fort Atkinson, a little bridge built of local timber three hands took to the water and in two or post near present Dodge City.5 Chey miles east of Fort Larned in 1868.J.l three hours succeeded in getting dry ennes came to call the stream Red Additional testimony to the Paw goods and wagon to camp on the op Arm Creek for the Comanche chiefof nee's tree growth is associated with posite bank. The next two days were that name who was killed during an the march of Colonel Stephen W. spent in opening the goods, and attack on a Bent/St. Vrain caravan Kearny in 1846 at the onset of the spreading them on the ground to dry, 10 Wagon Traclls August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 10 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) repacking, and loading up. "IS gravestones at that location to honor ated another ranche just west of the Two years later members of the Privates Robert Easley and Arthur Wet Route crossing (also marked by Mormon Battalion had a similar ex Hughes who died and were buried the WetlDry Routes Chapter). perience. Sergeant Daniel Tyler re near the crossing during the Mexi Parker sold the Dry Route ranche corded: "On the evening ofthe 9th we can War. and it changed hands several times camped on a stream known as The original Dry Route of the before being operated by a man Pawnee Fork, the crossing of which Santa Fe Trail turned off from the known only as Wagginer. Indians was very difficult, and occupied some Wet Route three and one-half miles raided the ranche in 1867, and Wag time. Each wagon had to be let down southwest ofthe Pawnee River cross giner sold the burned out remains to the bank with ropes, while on the op ing at a place called Forks in Santa A. H. Boyd in the following year. posite bank from twenty to thirty Fe Road (also marked by the Boyd proved to be a successful en men with ropes aided the teams in Wet/Dry Routes Chapter). But with trepreneur, catering both to civilians pulling the wagons up. The water the advent of the Hall-Porter mail and soldiers from nearby Fort was muddy, very much like that of station and the subsequent estab Larned.27 A bronze marker placed by the Missouri river."19 lishment of the Camp on Pawnee the WetlDry Routes Chapter identi The difficulty occasioned by the Fork some six miles west of the fies the ranche site. The crossing site ·' Pawnee's steep banks was further Pawnee River crossing in the fall of is also memorialized by a bronze confounded by its periodic raging 1859, the Dry Route's eastern termi marker and an interpretative sign, floodwaters. Normally the stream nus was shifted to a location about compliments of the chapter. A DAR ran three to five feet deep; but during one mile. southwest of Ash Creek Santa Fe Trail marker is also located the flood season, its deep channel crOSSIng. at the crossing site. ran full to over flowing.20 Such was Departing the regular route of the By 1866 another variant of the experienced by Colonel Kearny, as Santa Fe Trail which ran south to Dry Route was developed due to the noted above, and by a Bent/St. Vrain the Pawnee River crossing, the new post office being transferred from the wagon train detained for a full variant of the Dry Route took a mail station to the sutler's store lo month in 1844.21 southwesterly orientation to strike cated at the southwest corner of Fort 28 Regardless, the Pawnee River the Pawnee River three miles east of Larned. Beginning at the same crossing was a popular stop as char the mail station and nearby Camp on point previously discussed, one mile acterized by Matt Field in 1840, "a Pawnee Fork. There it crossed the southeast of the Ash Creek crossing, delightful wood and watering place river and continued up the south the road ran southwest to the north at an abrupt turning of the Pawnee bank to the mail station and the lit bank of the Pawnee and followed its River.,,22 A similar sentiment was ex tle outpost. When Camp on Pawnee course as it curled south around the pressed by Henrich Mollhausen in Fork, renamed Camp Alert in Febru west side of the post. There, a cross 1848: "The wide prairie with its sub ary 1860, and later renamed Fort ing adjacent to the sutler's store lime tranquility and its majestic ex Larned and relocated one-fourth came into use. panse certainly has an appeal to re mile southwest of the original site as In June 1866 the Union Pacific ceptive and contemplative mipds. a permanent post in early June 1860, Railroad, Eastern Division, reached the Dry Route crossing began to ex But when, after a long trip through 25 Junction City near Fort Riley. At the endless grassy meadows, one perience heavy traffic. The reasons once, the little municipality became suddenly finds himself in a region were three. First, by the time of Fort the eastern terminus of the Santa Fe where mighty walnut trees, syca Larned's establishment, most of the Trail. Merchandise and mail previ mores, oak trees and willows of American freight plying the Santa ously dispatched from the Kansas many kinds crowd the dark masses Fe Trail was military in nature. City area on the original route of the of their tops together, decorated with Commercial freighters under con Santa Fe Trail through Council lianas and grapevines-where, in tract to the army provisioned Fort Grove were shipped by rail to Junc other words, the earth's inexhausti Larned before proceeding on to other tion City. From there, the freight ble productive force is revealed in the posts southwest. Second, as both the and post were transported on an es luscious vegetation, in the knotted mail station and later the post office tablished mail route to Walimt trunk as well as in the tender twig were located adjacent to the post, the Creek and westward on the original then the enjoyment is doubly great. stagecoaches of a necessity took the route of the Santa Fe Trail to Fort The smallest wooded strip extends Dry Route. Third, because the Dry Larned. This route came to be called nature's kind greeting to the won Route was shorter than the Wet the Fort Riley-Fort Larned Road. In ders of the prairie.,,23 Route, it became the preferred path the subsequent summer, the Union 26 As such, the Pawnee River cross of the mail companies. Pacific rails reached Fort Harker, ing was a well-known campsite on Near the Dry Route crossing situ and the little post, supersedingJunc what came to be known as the Wet ated at the west edge of the present tion City as the eastern terminus of Route of the Santa Fe Trail?1 Com Larned State Hospital campus, a the Santa Fe Trail, continued to re memorating the crossing are a cut-down of huge proportions re lay merchandise and mail to Fort bronze marker and an interpretative mains on the north bank of the river. Larned. In October 1867, rail service sign placed near the US 56 bridge at On the south side, a short distance was extended to Hays City, and that Larned by the WetlDry Routes from the crossing, is the site of a newly-founded town became the Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail Asso trading ranche established by Sam eastern terminus of the Santa Fe ciation. The chapter has also set uel Parker in 1865. Parker also oper- Trail, dispatching freight wagons August 2003 Wagon Tracks 11 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 11 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 and stagecoaches on the 75-mile Fort Larned and the Fort Hays-Fort then coursed it up about a mile to the fording place near which we are now Hays-Fort Dodge Road to Fort Dodge Dodge Road ford in Hodgeman camped." Earlier he had written, "The and on to Santa Fe. Thus, overland County, slight tribute to the cross creek appears to be too full now to ven traffic on the Santa Fe Trail east of ings which served the Santa Fe trade ture to cross if with waggens." Perhaps Fort Dodge through Fort Larned for nearly five decades. the usual fording place was forsaken for one less flooded. Sibley continued, "Ap ceased, and the Pawnee River cross NOTES prehending more rain and fearing to be ing at the fort was used only for local 1. The original township map of 1871 plainly detained by high water. we set to work traffic.29 East of Fort Larned Na shows the crossing of the Santa Fe Trail cutting down the banks and preparing tional Historic Site one mile is a close by the confluence located about the ford for the waggens to cross." Such 500 yards southeast of the US 56 bridge. would suggest this site had not been bronze marker and an interpretative David Clapsaddle, comp., A Directory previously used as a crossing. sign placed by the Wet/Dry Routes of Santa Fe Trail Sites (Larned: The 18. James Josiah Webb, Adventures In The Chapter which explains the Dry Wet/Dry Routes Chapter of the Santa Fe Santo Fe Trade /844-1847 (Lincoln: Uni Route variant which crossed the Trail Association, 1999). C4-C5. versity of Nebraska Press, 1995), 51-52. Pawnee River at Fort Larned. 2. John E. Sunder. ed.. Matt Field On The 19. Sergeant Daniel Tyler, A Concise History Santo Fe Trail (Norman: University of Of The Mormon Battalion In The Mexican The westward push of the railroad Oklahoma, 1960), 291. War /846-/847 (Glorieta, New Mexico: to Hays City and the initiation of the 3. Louise Barry, The Beginning Of The West: The Rio Grande Press, Inc., 1980), 148. Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road led to a Annals Of The Kansas Gateway To The 20. H. B. Mollhausen, "Over the Santa Fe Trail fourth Pawnee River crossing. Run American West, /540-1854 (Topeka: Through Kansas in 1858," Kansas Histori Kansas State Historical Society, 1972),92. cal Quarterly 16 (November 1948): 352. ning southwest from Hays City, the 4. Sunder. Matt Field, 96. road crossed Big Creek, the Smoky 21. Barry. Beginning OfThe West. 512. 5. "Records of the Office of the Chief Engi 22. Sunder, Matt Field, 72. Hill River, Big Timber Creek, and neer", part of mop 140. National Ar 23. Mollhausen, "Over The Santa Fe Trail," chives. Walnut Creek before reaching the 351 . Mollhausen was correct with regard Pawnee River in present Hodgeman 6. George E. Hyde, ed.. A Life of George to the thicket-like appearance of the Bent Written From His Letters (Norman: crossing but was incorrect regarding the County. There a modern bridge University of Oklahoma. 1968), 268. spans the stream where Santa Fe species of trees there present. Walnut. 7. Barry, Beginning of the West, 512. sycamore, and oaks would not have bound freight wagons and stage 8. Kate L. Gregg, ed., The RoadTo Santo Fe: been on the Pawnee. coaches once forded. Overland traffic The Journals and Diaries of George 24. For a full treatment of the Wet Route, see on the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Road Champlin Sibley (Albuquerque: Univer David K. Clapsaddle, 'The Wet and Dry came to a halt when the railroad ex sity of New Mexico Press, 1995). 72-73. Routes of the Santa Fe Trail." Kansas His 9. Leo E. Oliva, "Fort Atkinson on the Santa tory 15 (Summer 1992): 98-115. tended its tracks to Phil Sheridan, Fe Trail, 1850-1854," Kansas Historical an end-of-the-tracks town in present 25. Oliva. Fort Larned, 7-11. Quarterly XL (Summer 1974): 215. 26. For a full treatment of the dry routes. see Logan County. From there, a new 10. Leo E. Oliva, Fort Larned On The Santo Fe David K. Clapsaddle. "The Dry Route Re road was developed running west to Trail (Topeka: Kansas State Historical So visited." Overland Journal 17 (Summer Fort Wallace before turning south ciety' 1982), 9-11. 1999) : 2-8. west to strike the so-called Mountain 11. Henry M. Stanley. My Early Travels and 27. Clapsaddle, A. H. Boyd, 9-20. Adventures In America (Lincoln: Univer 28. Robert W. Baughman, Kansas Post Of Route of the Santa Fe Trail at Fort sity of Nebraska Press. 1982), 27. Lyon. Thus, after a brief eight fices (Topeka: Kansas State Historical So 12. The Hancock Expedition. Letters Re ciety' 1986), 46. Lt. M. R. Brown labeled month tenure, Santa Fe travel ceived by the Office of the Adjutant .this Dry Route variant as the Santa Fe stopped on the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge General, 1869, Record Group 94, micro Stage Route. Hancock Expedition, RG Road and traffic at this Pawnee film roll 563. National Archives. 94, National Archives. River crossing became limited to lo 13. Henry Booth, Centennial History of Paw 29. David K. Clapsaddle, "Conflict and nee County, unpublished manuscript. Commerce on the Santa Fe Trail: The cal citizens and the transport of mili Santa Fe Trail Center, Larned, Kansas. Fort Larned-Fort Riley Road, 1860-1867," tary personnel and supplies, which 14. David K. Clapsaddle, A. H. Boyd Entre Kansas History 16 (Summer 1993): 124 continued until the Atchison, Topeka preneur Of The Prairie (no publisher, no 137. and Santa Fe Railway reached date), 14. 30. David K. Clapsaddle, 'The Fort Hays-Fort Dodge City in 1872.30 At the crossing 15. John Taylor Hughes, Doniphan's Expedi Dodge Road, A Ladder of Rivers," Over tion (College Station: Texas A&M Univer land Journal 18 (Fall 2000): 8-12. site, a profound cut-down remains on sity Press, 1997).28-29. the north bank of the river. To the 16. John Galvin, ed., Western America in NEW INTERPRETIVE MARKER south, several faint ruts can yet be /846-1847: The Original Travel Diary of AT PAWNEE CROSSING detected. The Wet/Dry Routes Chap Lieutenant J. w. Abert Who Mopped ter has placed a bronze marker at New Mexico for the United States Army THE WetlDry Routes Chapter re (San Francisco: John Howell-Books, cently placed a new marker at the this location to commemorate the 1966),14 ff. crossmg. 17. Gregg, The Road To Santo Fe. 72-73. Si Santa Fe Trail Wet Route Crossing From the early 1820s through bley's width of the Pawnee at forty yards of the Pawnee River near Larned to 1868, when the westward expansion seems unlikely. Jacob Fowler's estimate commemorate the ford's usage by of forty feet seems more plausible. Elliott Spanish and American travelers of the railroad rung the death knell Coues, ed.. The Journal of Jacob Fowler for the Santa Fe Trail east of Fort (Minneapolis: Ross and Haines, Inc., prior to the opening of the Santa Fe Lyon, the four separate crossings of 1965). 24. The crossing used by Sibley Trail. Following is the text of the was not at the confluence. Forwhatever marker: the Pawnee River witnessed multi reason. Sibley crossed the Pawnee ple tons offreight and mail deliveries EXPEDITIONS AT THE PAWNEE RIVER some distance from the location des CROSSING PRIOR TO THE ADVENT numbering in the thousands. Yet, tined to be on the established route. He physical evidence is limited to the wrote. "Yesterday, I turned off from the OF THE SANTA FE TRAil direct course and struck the Arkansas on Previous to the opening of the Dry Route crossing east of Fort the mouth of this river [Pawnee], and 12 Wagon Trac1?s August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 12 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) Santa Fe Trail, the Pawnee River Lamar, CO; and Albuquerque, NM. Each Chapter receiving a Madonna was forded near this point by Span The idea of preserving the old trails assumed the expenses for the ish expeditions: Francisco Vasquez grew out of the Kansas Daughters freight, mounting, and dedication Coronado, 1541; Fray Juan de Pa 1903 decision to mark the Santa Fe ceremonies. Today the twelve DAR dilla, 1542; and Lt. Facundo Melga Trail. The Missouri Daughters fol State Societies bear the cost of main res, 1806. Within weeks of Melgares lowed in 1909 with the preservation tenance and restoration of their Ma return trip to Mexico, Lt. Zebulon of the old wagon trails in that state. donna. The Kansas Madonna has re Pike here crossed the Pawnee and In 1911, the National Society DAR cently undergone restoration and traced Melgares' route to the established the National Old Trails weather proofing by the Save Our southwest. Pike's 1810 report sub Road Committee to institute a great Statuary Foundation. sequently directed other American National Memorial Highway with The City Selection Committee, expeditions to the crossing: Robert monuments from coast to coast. A made up of members from both or McKnight, 1812; Capt. John Bell, year later, the National Old Trails ganizations and headed by Judge • 1820; and Hugh Glenn-Jacob Road Association was organized to Truman, met at the Hotel Muehle Fowler, 1821. study the old trails and post roads bach in Kansas City, MO, on Thurs that were used in' the westward day, September 29, 1927. Nine Kan expansion: the National Pike, the • .~~: sas cities had petitioned the commit . -, ,. ....:• f~ .. ...1 Santa Fe Trail, the Boone's Lick tee, but Council Grove on the Santa Road, the Washington or Braddock Fe Trail was chosen as the most im Road, the Cumberland Road, the old portant and worthy place in Kansas trail from Santa Fe to California, for the erection of a Madonna. -'I ., and other westward roads. Their L. ., ' The old campground, where the . " , stated purpose was to help the freighters gathered for their last .. . ~ I Daughters mark the Old Trails and " ... ' ...... '" • . '. :l touch with "civilization," seemed to '- - '~'''' .. to promote the construction of a be the perfect site. The area now " ~. ," ••••••.,,~•• ~.- ...j modern highway along their path. :" : '....' ••". _.:•. " .•, .' ",j' known as Madonna Park, with the :...... " ...:.,..- ...... ,-. t·' ... Following World War I, Mrs. John ..,·.t ...'· ..... ·.· I.··.. ' Post Office Oak at one edge and the . . "!. '. - .. ';...... Trigg Moss of St. Louis was Madonna in the center is a tribute to r. .". '.'. appointed NSDAR Chairman of the enterprising adventurers and mer . '.-" '~.,. ':.. , .~ r.~;.!.'.r.: " ~.. National Old Trails Road Committee chants; a solemn reminder that all '.'" "••••.. ...", .... '. tj .'...... ""'"' .. and Judge Harry S. Truman of ., -. . -..-...... progress in civilization is the result ; ~ .. 'I: , .. . - -...... , Independence, MO, was elected '0 '".",..',"'..~ ..•""... ofthe faith and hope of a free people. ",,-- ' .. ". ." ~" ...n' •• •• .. President of the National Old Trails . :' ~ .-.. .. ," ". A member of the Council Grove Road Association. DAR chapter, Lillah Brigham, was A plan to erect 5,050 signposts commissioned to make the inscrip proved to be too expensive ($30,000). tion oflocal history that appears on In 1924, the DAR decided that the base. The inscriptions read: "HERE, Old Trails Road would be marked EAST MET WEST WHEN THE with twelve large statues, one for OLD SANTA FE TRAIL WAS ES Wet/Dry Routes Chapter President Rusti each state through which it passes. TABLISHED AUGUST 10, 1825 AT Gardner and new interpretive marker The statue of Sacagawea in Port A COUNCIL BETWEEN THE at Pawnee River Crossing. land, OR, was the inspiration for the UNITED STATES COMMISSION DAR MADONNA REDEDICA monuments. Mrs. Moss, with her ERS AND OSAGE INDIANS" and TION AT COUNCIL GROVE son's help, presented final sketches "1825-1866 TRAILSMEN CAMPED SEPTEMBER 7, 2003 to St. Louis sculptor, August Leim ON THE SPOT. 1847-1873 RAW bach. Leimbach's finished model, de INDIANS LIVED HERE. 1847 by Shirley Coupal picting a pioneer woman, was named FIRST WHITE SETTLER SETH [SFTA member Coupal is state histo The Madonna of the Trail by the Old HAYS. 1847-COUNCIL GROVE A rian ofKSDAR.] Trails Road Committee. TRADING POST." The statues are ten feet high on a THE Kansas Society Daughters of The Kansas Madonna was dedi six-foot base with a concrete founda cated September 7, 1928. Thousands the American Revolution will host a tion which stands two feet above the attended the festivities, which 75th anniversary and rededication ground. Made of algonite stone (a included speakers, a parade, a celebration of the Madonna of the poured mass) of which Missouri picnic, a wild-west show, and much Trail statue in Council Grove, KS, granite is the main aggregate, the more. The Kansas Daughters invite September 7, 2003. See enclosed monument weighs seventeen to flyer in this issue for program. you to join in celebrating our 75 twenty tons. The twelve monuments years of recognizing our trail heri There are twelve Madonna of the were all poured in the same mold. tage and the importance of the Road Trail statues standing sentry to They were shipped to their respec to Santa Fe. national overland trails, from tive sites and erected with local Maryland to California. Those along funds. The statues cost $1,000 each, LEAVE YOUR LEGACY: PLAN A the Santa Fe Trail are found at the total $12,000 being paid for by BEQUEST TO THE SFTA Lexington, MO; Council Grove, KS; assessments of all DAR Chapters. August 2003 Wagon Tracks 13 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 13 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 KATIE BOWEN LETTERS, 1851: PART III edited by Bonita and Leo Oliva (Katie Bowen Letters [Bowen Family go and whistle around the house at have commenced today to melt Papers, U. S. Army Military History night, and she was very encourag down my butter, and of all the froth Institute, Carlisle Barracks, PAl, ing to him. When they went to and curds I, nor anyone else ever telling of a trip to New Mexico over Aroostook the poor fellow nearly saw. The butter was as sweet and the Trail in 1851, continues after a died of despair, and as some one pure as olive oil after skimming and hiatus of one year caused by lack of had to come back for provisions he pouring gently the oil from the space. She was still at Fort Leaven begged on his bended knees, with curds. I know it will keep and al worth, awaiting departure for New tears in his eyes, to be the one cho ways mean to put down my butter Mexico. Her troubles with a servant sen, and he was sent, but oh horror! in this way. If I had known this way girl were typical in the frontier army. when he arrived the bird had when at Fort Mifflin I could have This series will continue in the next flown, in other words, Treat had saved a winters supply. We will issue.) sent her to Bangor. Was it not rather probably have three or four cows in • too bad to have a poor fellow so Santa fe and I shall experiment. Fort Leavenworth, April 28, 1851 drastically disappointed. Maj Car You try the experiment with the My dear Mother, leton confesses to having been eggs, for Susan Bowen said she Your very welcome letter of very tender on the subject regard kept them for a year and does not March 29 I received on Thursday. It ing Miss Elizabeth Smith, but says know but they would have kept for had been detained in st. Louis, was that when he found out that she any length of time, had she advertised and forwarded from was in debt for a shop full of goods, enough to try with. I have not seen there. So of course it was longer in it took all the romance from the Mrs. Haskin for several days, but reaching me than the next one will thing, and when I told him that she heard a report this morning that be. I expect to get one tomorrow. had six boys (I called the expected she had a little one, whether true or Mails only come and go every a boy of course) he held up his not I must find out. I wish we were other day so that I have to send my hands and thanked his stars that on our way, for I am anxious to get letters to the office when the man they were not his. He has a nice settled so to write you how we look goes to Weston for the mail, and in wife and one little daughter a at housekeeping. Mary [the consequence have not time to an month older than our little one Bowens' servant] gets lowspirited swer until next time. I was much [daughter Amelia who died No sometimes, but I guess she will stick pleased with the news you write vember 26, 1850, at the age of 13 fast. Isaac says if she gets married and am always so glad to know months and 2 days], and will have that he will certainly buy a wench, that you are all well. The lock of hair another when this is two years old. and then he can feel secure. If I re will be prized more than any gift This is his second wife, so you see he main as well in future as I now am, I you could have offered. There is no has been pretty busy these past can do my own work and snap my prospect of our starting for some ten years, not withstanding the fingers to any wench, white or days yet as Col. [Edwin V.] Sumner Mexican war. I am glad there is a black. You would be astonished to has not arrived and all the stores prospect of Julia prospering. She see how robust I have got since are not up. It is very fortunate that deserves a good fortune and I leaving home. My flesh is as hard as we came as we did, for the water hope Hasey may kick the bucket a bullet and my cheeks are as red has fallen so much that very few before he reaches her again. What as ever they were. My hair too is boats are small enough for the do you think Willard is going to do if getting thick and looks as it used to. shallow water, consequently are not to go to California. Perhaps he Every body concurs in giving Santa continually running on sand bars. A is coming out west, and if he settles fe a good name for health, and an very large command is going out in any of these new states, he will old gentleman, Maj [Enoch] Steen and we will make quite a show spend his lifetime before he sees who has just come from there says when we get started. Six hundred any of the towns as flourishing or as that he had as fine a vegetable men well be mounted, a nice little easy to live in as Houlton. I would garden as ever he saw in the horseback party. The country like to see some of our grumblers United States. He says that in plant about here is very fine. I see some settled on Missouri's bottoms, and if ing his beans he found seven groins new beauty every time I go out. they would not pray for cold of oats and put them in a corner of Saturday we took a long drive with Maine, with some its good land, his garden, and that as they rip Maj. [James H.] Carleton and lady. then I won't guess again. The high ened he picked them off· and You have seen him I presume, for land here are fruitful, but the bot counted them he came away bef he was with the party who were toms are miserable, and the squat ore they were all ripe but he had sent to protect the frontier in the ters look the color of the mud and gathered seven thousand and time of the Aroostook war [1839]. dust. This river water is very sweet three or four. So you may judge of His version of Treat's and Priscilla's and healthy, only it is dreadfully the yield. his garden was near a love affair is quite different from muddy and needs a great deal of stream and was not irrigated Next anything I ever heard. He says that care to filter it. There are springs of year we will go in for something of one of his sergeants fell desper pure water, but not very healthy, the sort. ately in love in with Pris and used to and so they are not used at all. I Tuesday morning. This morning is 14 Wagon Trachs August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 14 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) very dark and the wind is high, I am sorry Mrs Hodgdon has had board. She evidently wanted to threatening rain and I hope we a mishap. I would give all the world live in clover while we stayed but may have it for every thing wants it if she could have a baby. she had to take up lodging with her much, grass in particular. The farm new friend. She said many hard Fort Leavenworth, May 10, 1851 ers have been burning the grass on things which I never would take the prairies, and the sight on a My dear Mother. from anyone and two thousand clear evening was fine, to see the Your letter of April20th has come dollars would not tempt me to flames rolling over the hills like safely and I answer today, fearing have her in our house, since she has clouds. I rode through a field of that some of my letters have mis found her tongue. I do not blame long dry grass the last time we were carried. I wrote on Tuesday to Su her entirely because I know she has out, and one would suppose that san and hope she will answer it been talked into it, but she had no the sun would never get to the some time. Col. Sumner came yes right to change her mind at our ex ground through it sufficiently warm terday morning and there ;s a pros pense. I think she has money or she to bring up the new grass. Report pect of our going about the 20th. would not dare to be so independ came up last night that another He is in excellent spirits and says ent although she came to me yes boat has run up against a snag at there are so many ladies going out terday and asked for money to Independence landing and sunk. that he will have to give them the take her to St. Louis. I told her to get • We did not hear particulars, but the command day about. Eight are al her money from her friend, as she Indian agent was on board just ready here and more expected, considered us her enemies. She has coming up to payoff the indians, two are young ladies, daughters of told people that we treated her and we do not know whether any Gen. Green and going to live with badly, and she knew that we in lives were lost. Two or three days a married sister in Santa fe. The Col tended to make a drudge of her ago the steamer Cora was sunk thinks of having his head quarters after we got her away. I think she is below here on her way to st Louis, this side of the mountains at a point bewitched after the man who but the passengers were all taken called Los Begas and about 180 wanted her on the boat, but she off by another boat. In low water miles nearer home. Every little will get her reward if she goes to these snags seem so numerous that helps, beside it is a fine country and him, for he is a notorious rake, and it is almost impossible to find a clear the whole army will be turned into the lady of this house told her he channel. I hope the indians will the farming field instead of fighting. only wanted a bedfellow when he come in to be paid off before we Uncle Sam is going to try farming on asked to marry her. Iam convinced go away for it must be a funny sight a grand scale, and I hope he may she has a bad heart, and I have to see so many together. They ap succeed. Isaac has purchased 500 written a long letter to Mrs Irvine, pear very harmless. Isaac is having cattle and is going to Weston to giving her a faithful account. It was a grocery chest filled with tin boxes day to buy a large quantity of win an expense that we could little af to contain everything needed in a ter wheat to experiment upon. You ford just now, but we have bought family and then I will have every will be astonished as well as a valuable negro woman of mid thing under control. boxes of differ pleased if we succeed in making a dle age and who is an experi ent sizes made to fit perfectly into farm. Among other novelties Mary enced nurse, and I assure you I feel the chest, three tiers deep and the has been behaving very badly and rich, not one bad feeling have I on cover of the chest, when let back, hired herself to another woman, a account of Mary's going. She was makes a table for any purpose. A camp washer woman before tell selfish. I am perfectly well and told thin board fits in over the boxes ing us she had changed her mind. Isaac I could do my own work but which will be a grand bread board, You know she is very easily influ he would not listen to it, and as and so we carry a whole kitchen in enced and this woman was from there is not a white servant in garri one chest. Candles, soap, flour, same county in auld Ireland so that son I am well pleased to have a sugar, spices, everything has its accounts in a great measure. Mary slave too. We can always sell for as own box, and a nest of milk pans was very impertinent for some days much as we paid, and their clothes finish the top. Our cow gives a and grumbled continually, al are a small item, the way they good mess of milk and I have no though her whole duty was only to dress. Mary got violently angry the misgivings with regard to the future. wash for us. I think she tried hard for other day because Iwould not buy Day after tomorrow I shall think us to discharge her for being saucy. a set of false curls and a parrasol. much of all for it will be Father's She missed her aim however for I You know she would spend a for birthday. I do not forget anything, was very kind to her, and the Capt. tune on cotton edgings, and she is but even at night I dream of you all did everything he could to please poorly off for clothes. I cannot think and dear little pet too [Katie's refer her. Beside her fare which was $40, what becomes of her money, un ence to her lost daughter, Amelia]. we bought her shoes, stockings, less she hoards it up or gives it to the One night I put out my hands to cloth for underclothes, and every priest for pardoning her sins. A ne prevent her from rolling out of bed, thing to make her comfortable but gro woman has just come in to tell but did not find her. Love to alii will she never thanked us and said we . me that Mary went on board with write every thing I can think of and gave her no money, altho she had an old officer who is going to re make as dutiful a daughter as pos not been a month from Philadel- sign, that she boasted that he had sible. . phia. She stole away her trunk, and given her money and was going to your Katie we told her to go herself, as she marry her when he went to live on was not doing enough to pay her August 2003 Wagon Tracks 15 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 15 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 a farm. She has been seen in his warranted to be well broken, and a holes in the bottom of the cellar, room after tatoo, and now I guess stately appearance we will make will keep them fresh a year. A lady the murder is out. She has been in our big waggon drawn by four here had a nice pie made from coaxed to go off with him and he mules. I don't think any persons, some she had kept over and one will pay all expenses. You cannot even the commander, will be as could not tell the difference from tell how glad I am to get rid of her comfortable as we will. Isaac has fresh ones just from the bushes. and no money will tempt me to fixed up every little convenience They grow wild here and are very trust a white girl again very soon. that can be imagined and even if large. Climbing roses and snow We have everything most com we have to live in tents, until we berries grow in the greatest abun plete and our journey I think will be can build an adobe house, we will dance all though the woods, and pleasant. I will write just as often as I be very well off in warm weather. It yet the people here take so little in get a chance to send to you. We is not entirely settled yet where terest that they do not transplant have had rains and vegetation is headquarters will be but at any any shrubs into their yards. I am looking finely. I rode out several rate we will be wherever it is, and at very glad Lydia Cook is getting on miles on the plains a few days since present you had better direct all so well, give my love to her and tell and wish you could see the pretty letter to Santa fe, New Mexico, via her I hope you two may take a scenery. The ladies here are very Independence, as all mails are good deal of comfort together. I agreeable and we have been out made up there once a month, but was not surprised to hear that Mar several evenings. Mrs. Haskin has you must write as often as once in garet had left her, after my experi no baby yet. though every day it is ten days so as be sure of some hit ence I will never trust a white ser expected. Give my particular re ting the monthly package. If you vant again. Our darky has not gards to all my many friends. I am only wrote once a month, it might come yet. or rather we do not want glad that all are prospering at be a day to late, and have to lay her until we are ready to start, as I home. I hope Adelaide will not over till next time. Even if I knew the have nothing for one to do, and it think it is my fault that she get no day, which I do not, that the mails costs much less to have our wash letters from Buffalo. I never opened start, you would have to allow ing done than to pay board for a my lips; for I did not see enough of three weeks for it to reach Inde girl. Mrs. Smith will feel very lonely them to say anything. Holman shall pendence, so please write often when Louise is gone, but it will be have a letter sometime. I am re until we can discover how regular good for her to see something. joiced that Father is well again, tell the carriers start. These frequent Have you heard from Millard? and him not to do anything so foolish showers are making fine feed for us when is Mr Jo. Holton coming again but live at his ease and drive and we will go through quite rap home? I think of everybody but his pony. I expect to ride a mule idly after setting out. A lady and cannot ask after each one. Always sometimes, their gait is very pleas two children with her husband and give my love to whoever remem ant, an easy pace. Much iove to ali a small escort started this mornin\:j bers rne. I have received no letter the family & tell Matty I am glad he for Ft Scott, a journey of 12 days to from Mrs. Hodgdon, but if it went to is such a good boy. the Arkansas. It is such a common Buffalo Dennis will forward it. I will Ever dear Mother your Katie occurrence for ladies to cross the keep a letter ready to send out at plains that nobody thinks anything any opportunity and will tell every Fort Leavenworth, May 17, 1,851 of it. Maj [Ebenezer 5.] Sibley is here thing that I see. The dragoons are My dear Father and Mother. with his third wife, a bride of a few encamped three miles from here Your kind letter and pretty lace months, and going with us. She says preparatory to going, and their came safely on Thursday. I read she is ignorant as a baby about tents do look so white and coolon over and over all particulars from housekeeping and hopes to live a sunny day, but must be rather home and am very thankful that near me to learn something. Dont damp in wet weather. We will prize letter come so direct. The weather you think she is to be pitied if she our waggon on a rainy night. I wish here has been too warm to take has to take lessons from me? Mrs. you could see it, so big and com any comfort and we have had ter Haskin has a third daughter, a fair fortable. Null [a friend from Fort Mif rible thunder storms. One is raging fat baby of 8V2 pounds. She is smart flin whom the Bowens hoped to now and the lightning is one con as a cricket and will travel in three have drive their mules to NewMex tinued blaze. I am glad Shepard weeks. her youngest boy is two ico] has come though I have not does not live here, for he would years old today and cannot walk, see him to ask any particulars. He stand in fear of the clouds all the some weakness in one leg occa went to Philadelphia for his wife time. We are gathering up every sioned by teething. I have com and she died somehow. I did not thing expecting to be off about the menced a letter to Holman and will hear what was the matter with her. 25th but the Col cannot tell send it off on Tuesday. How I do he then came on to St. Louis, deter whether or no it will not be the first want some of his maple sugar just mined to be with us, and getting of June before he gets off so many eat a few pounds for me. Green out of money was obliged to enlist men drilled to move. Trains are gooseberries are being brought in in a company of dragoons coming starting every day, and some of our and I mean to bottle a few to make up the river. He will not drive our goods have gone. Isaac's mules pies of in Mexico. Stemmed and team, but will be on hand if came a day to two ago but we corked tight in bottles and kept in b wanted. The Col wants all his have not tried them yet. They are cool damp cellar, or stuck into mounted men together and would 16 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 16 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) not spare him to drive our mules, but Isaac has an 3xcellent team ster, used to the road, and camp ing plans. Some of the stores have come up this week. The rains we have had in ten days has risen the river 8 feet so that most of the sand bars are covered now. Susan will get sewed up so tight that she will have nothing to do after a while. I am as busy as if I never had a stitch taken for me. Always something to do if one is disposed to do it. All of 13 August 2003 Wagon Tracks 17 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 17 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 COTTONWOOD RIVER CROSSING SWALE by Dale E. Brooks HUNDREDS of wagon trains crossed the Cottonwood River in present Marion County, KS, and many of them camped immediately south of the river where they could gather wood and contain their live stock. As they left the campground, they pulled up a long grade to the hilltop approximately one-half mile south ofthe river, leaving a deep and wide swale. Recently the Cottonwood Cross ing Chapter toured this Trail rem nant. The swale is four to eight feet deep and thirty to fifty yards wide. Property owner Dennis Youk says the area has always been in native grass. The photo at right illustrates this huge Trail swale. state. Robert Aull, Sam Owens, and present Levasy area, The path con INDEPENDENCE Isaac Peace built a water-powered tinued northwesterly to Fort Osage, /continued from page I} flour mill there in 1835. and followed the Blue Mills and Ath towns were the main points of social Information from the Blue Mills erton roads to the area of the Salem contact and trade. The Santa Fe Daybook reveals that Captain James Church (established in the 1820s.) Trail became a route of commerce in Kingsbury, the commissary officer at The road, at one point known as the 1821, when William Becknell left the Fort Leavenworth, bought all the old Lexington road, continued on to Franklin area (on the Missouri flour used at the fort-400 barrels a "Big Spring," the name by which River) for westward trade. Goods month-from the mill at Blue Mills present-day Independence was bound for Oregon, Santa Fe, and Landing. Records show that George known, for Independence was California (and points in between) Wallis and Company, contractors for blessed with five major springs of were unloaded at the Wayne City the Little Osage Indians, ordered good water which supplied travelers Landing and transported by a primi 600 barrels in April of 1836. Flour and settlers. tive railroad into Independence. processed at the mills was trans Long before the white pioneers set There wagon trains organized for ported by water on the Little Blue foot in Jackson County, the road was western destinations. Francis Park River for a short distance to the Blue known as an Indian Trace. Early man, in his book The Oregon Trail, Mills Landing on the Missouri River. travelers found it a path beaten hard spoke of people in Independence, "a Then the goods traveled downstream by the feet of the generations of in multitude of healthy children's faces to the Mississippi River and on to habitants and native traders who peeping out from under covers of New Orleans where they were bound had used it as the main route be wagons ... the men, very sober look for the markets of Europe tween the villages of east and west. ing country men, stood about their Wayne City Landing (Upper Inde In 1833, a large group of Kickapoo oxen." pendence Landing) later became and Pottawatomie stopped nearby As trade with New Mexico in popular with the riverboat captains on their way to new lands in the In creased, a landing was established because a firm rock ledge offered dian Territory of Kansas. Their path downriver (northeasterly) on the safer footing for unloading goods. Lo led directly to the springs of Inde Missouri River at the site ofthe busy cated upriver from the Blue Mills pendence. Blue Mills Ferry. This became .Landing, supplies and travelers The present location of one of the known as "Lower Independence could easily traverse the two miles remaining springs is on the site of Landing," or "Blue Mills Landing." into Independence, away from the the National Frontier Trails Mu There, many boats unloaded goods 'mosquitoes and moisture of the seum. It was claimed that once a and passengers bound for Santa Fe, river. wanderer tasted the waters of Inde Oregon, or California. Founded in 1827, the town of In pendence, he (or she) would surely A separate location carrying the dependence became important as return. Perhaps that is so, for the Blue Mills name was the Blue Mills one of the eastern termini for outfit Queen Ci ty of the Trails continues to site where both a flour mill and a ting wagons. Early travelers stopped welcome those in quest of riches or lumber mill were built. Located there. Daniel Morgan Boone trapped knowledge, regardless of what trail barely ten miles from Independence, in the area. He followed a well-worn they follow or what means of trans the Mills area had been settled since Indian trail that entered the future port they use. Few come by water, 1820, before Missouri became a Jackson county southeast of the even fewer by hoof, yet if any eager 18 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 18 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) traveler wishes to learn of the his torical legacy of westward expan sion, a taste of the waters of Inde pendence makes a fair beginning for the journey. Sources: Barry, Louise, compo The Beginning of the West, 1540-1854. Topeka: Kansas State Historical Society, 1972. Chiles, Susan, "Old Blue Mills Ground Grain," The Independence Examiner, February 17, 1947. De Voto, Bernard. The Course ofEm pire. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1952. ·' Flour Mill Daybook for 1838-1839, Jackson County Historical Soci ety. Photos of statues courtesy of Sandra Kuny, Independence. Mo. The History ofJackson County, Mis souri. Kansas City: Union Histori as the Osage Trace. To memorialize Maple Avenue, Liberty Road, and cal Company, 1881. the era, the Truman Heartland Com River Road-be- gan as native corri Parkman, Francis. The Oregon munity Foundation funded the Old dors which led to some early spring Trail. New York: G. P. Putnam, Spring project located at the conflu or to the Missouri River. ence of Truman and Noland Roads 1849; many editions available. On March 29, 1827, local settlers east of the square in Independence, Partin, John W., ed., A BriefHistory seated themselves on a fallen tree Missouri. The message is not of a west of the Big Spring site and re of Fort Leavenworth, 1824-1993. clash of cultures, but of a conver Fort Leavenworth: Combat Stud corded that the "southwest quarter gence of cultures as water was one of of section 3, Township 49, Range 32" ies Institute, 1994. the common bonds of need. Schirmer, Sherry L. and Richard D. would legally be named Independ The Independence area, known as McKinzie, At the River's Bend: An ence. In June 1827 the county court Illustrated History ofKansas City, "Big Spring," attracted a myriad of reserved lot #143 (an area along the Independence and Jachson Coun travelers and was recognized as a Santa Fe Trail) for a public spring. ty. Woodland Hills: Windsor Pub crossroads and a meeting place. This site is north of the National Kachenga, a Kaw Indian Chief, lications, 1982. Frontier Trails Museumjust south of brought his band to Big Spring an Independence Square. Wagons head Triplett, Mrs. Bryan, Family Re nually to camp and to gather persim ing for Santa Fe, California, Oregon, cords of Blue Mills. mons and paw-paws. The tribe made or other points westward gathered at Truman Library records. a type of persimmon bread, called the spring to fill water kegs before Webb, W. L. Centennial History of staninca, by mashing the pulp of the starting. Today, deep ruts may be Independence. Independence: W. fruit and mixing it with powdered seen on the Bingham-Waggoner es L. Webb, 1927. corn. Staninca was used for winter tate south of the museum. SPRINGS OF INDEPENDENCE food. During a bitterly cold winter in In the 1850s John Overfelt used ., the 1850s, the old chief Kachenga water from the spring south of town by Jane Mallinson took pneumonia and died while to operate his steam-powered flour Two bronze statues, "A Young camping near the spring. mill. Peter Waggoner later pur .,, American Indian" and "Stella at the Four-legged wild animals made chased the mill. It then became Spring" highlight the importance of our first trails. They knew the easi known as the Waggoner-Gates Mill water to early settlers and travelers est route and the best places to find ing Company. (George Gates was the in the Independence area. The In food and water. Later, two-legged grandfather of Bess Truman.) The dian boy kneels, gazing upon water travelers followed the trace, making Waggoner family resided across the as it trickles from the palm of his their own way as suited their needs. street south ofthe mill, where at one hand into a stream meandering Today we follow those same paths, time noted Missouri artist George through a Missouri landscape of except in a different medium. In Caleb Bingham lived and painted. prairie plants. The pioneer girl car stead of the pointed toes of deer or From the grounds he could see cara rying a bucket stands back, waiting the imprint of moccasin or boot, we vans passing on their way west. respectfully for her turn. She seems observe yellow painted lines and re Bingham's paintings reflected the to sense that the young boy has prior flective signs on the roadways. Many political and social events ofhis day. claim to the water. Independence routes follow a similar There were sixteen springs in the The artist, Mischell Riley, por path, as did the deer, the natives, the 240 acres that became Independ trayed a time when the Osage Na settlers, and the traders. All the ma ence. One was at the site of Maple tion and other American Indian jor Independence roads-Lexington and Noland. It flowed from a rock tribes traveled along a path known Street, 24 Highway, Noland Road, bluff into a trough, which overflowed August 2003 Wagon Tracks • 19 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 19 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 and formed what became known as water as the key to survival and to FORT LEARNED Spring Branch Creek. This continu success-the Indian boy and the pio ous stream was once used to supply a neer girl, pilgrims at the water. -TEACHER'S TRADING POST nearby distillery. In 1846 it supplied Sources: Chris Day, Editor the Robinson and Crook Foundry. "Glimpses ofthe Past," Missouri His Mary Thoman Trail Diary, 2003 Local lore claims that the Robinson torical Review, XXIII, 7. Mary Thoman teaches fourth and Crook Foundry manufactured a Hickman, William Z. The History of wind wagon for William Thomas. In grade at Concordia, Kansas, and her Jackson County Missouri. Green husband Lowell farms. She has two 1884 blasting in the area disrupted ville: Southern Historical Press, the water flow at this spring and the children, a son named David and a 1912. daughter named Megan. water retreated underground. In The History ofJackson County, Mis Mary was a chaperone on the 2003 1971, the Independence Study Club souri. Kansas City: Union Histori Santa Fe Trail trip along with 52 funded the relocation of the Brady cal Company, 1881. Log Cabin to the site. Today a simu fifth- and sixth-grade students (in Jackson County Historical Journal, cluding Megan) from north central lated spring symbolizes the earlier Spring 1969. water source. Kansas. Mary teaches westward ex Jackson County Historical Society pansion and took this trip to learn Another large spring was located Archives, Boxes 3 and 26. on what is now East Linden Street more about the Santa Fe Trail. The Jackson Examiner, .September 14, following entries are excerpts from near Woodlawn Cemetery on South 1906; January 23, 1908. Noland Road. Samuel Gregg utilized her diary: water from this source for his Kansas City Journal Post, Septem June 1st, 2003 ber 8, 1925. slaughterhouse, which supplied This is just the first day and I meat for townsfolk and travelers. Kansas City Star, September 24, have a hard time believing we have 1916; August 27,2000. Forbis Spring was located at River already done so much. Our first stop Road just south of Truman Road (for Missouri Republican, October 12, was a tour of Council Grove. Chris merly Blue Avenue). Sources docu 1849. Day, co-director of the tour, in mented the spring as running a hun Wilcox, Pearl. Jackson County Pio structed students in the process of dred and fifty gallons per hour. Some neers. Independence: Pearl Wil "running for office" at the DAR Ma claimed the waters held medicinal cox, 1975. donna of the Trail Statue. The stu value. The Independence Bottling Jt!'th~ dents voted for the work-crew lead Company later used this spring wa ers by running and lining up behind ter in its production process. Many HOOF PRINTS their choice. The next stop was the Independence natives remember Coronado-Quivira Museum in Ly -TRAIL TIDBITS- looking forward to a cold bottle of ons. I learned the importance of Co Polly's Soda Pop on a hot day. SFTA charter member Mel Cot ronado in first using the trail as McCoy Lake was at the south end tom, Manhattan, KS, recently had Spanish influence was spread. of Main Street. This spring-fed lake five-way bypass heart surgery. He is Ralph's Ruts show evidence that the was a popular source of entertain home and recovering. We wish him wagons traveled through the area. ment for the town's young people. well. Ralph Hathaway is a gracious man Later the lake was renamed Doutt's •• • • and he wants to preserve the past for Lake, but it eventually succumbed to SFTA Board member Helen future generations. developers and is now a paved area. Brown, Elkhart, KS, was featured in June 2nd a recent article in the Hutchinson What a way to spend our first Springs supplied Mill Creek, a News (and other papers), including source of clean water for travelers evening! The tents had been set up at her work as director of the Morton Camp Aldrich and then a warning of who camped nearby. The camp County Historical Museum. ground was between Mill Street and threatening weather prompted the ••• • taking down of all the tents. We slept Spring Street, opposite the Truman Former SFTA member Stanley Library on 24 Highway. Mill Creek Kimball, 76, died May 15 at St. inside, but at least everyone had flowed into Sugar Creek, so named George, Utah, after a lengthy illness. practice in setting up and taking because ofthe numerous maple trees He was a charter member of SFTA down the tents. After leaving Camp growing along its banks. Springs and an authority on the Mormon Aldrich we visited Pawnee Rock, the also supplied nearby Rock Creek, an Trail. Sympathy is extended to his Santa Fe Trail Center, and Fort other ready source of water for trav family and friends. Larned. Traveling to Elkhart was a elers on the Trail. •• •• treat since the Morton County His Water is the life force of civiliza EI Camino Real Association torical Society donated wagon rides tion. Whether the water is in the (CARTA) has published the first and a delicious spaghetti dinner. We form of a clear spring or a flowing newsletter (available via e-mail) and are camping at the Morton County river, it supplies all according to announced the first membership Fairgrounds. need. The two bronze statues at Big meeting at Socorro, NM, on Septem June 3rd Spring remind us that water is as vi ber 20. Charter memberships are What a night! The tents were tal today as it was when the inhabi still available; see insert in this is- blown down in a windstorm at 2:00 tants of a fledgling nation recognized sue. . in the morning. After herding the 20 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 20 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) kids into a Quonset hut for an hour, June 6th June 9th we put everyone on the bus and Bandelier National Monument We proceeded over Raton Pass stayed up for the rest of the night. has to be one of the most magnificent and drove the Highway of Legends The Oklahoma state line was crossed sights I have ever seen. The natural Tour. With the mountain range cre and onward to Autograph Rock at beauty and the ruins of the "ancient ating a natural barrier, it was evi Sharp's Ranch. Viewing the names peoples" are well protected by rang dent why the town of Stonewall was that had been carved in to the sand ers. If there are a few places that given its name. Bent's Old Fort Na stone by travelers on the trail gave have not been changed by modern tional Historic Site was our last me goose bumps. The sight made up man, then this must be one of them. learning activity for the day. The for last night's hardships. A visit to A demonstration at the Bradbury large trading fort has been recon Camp Nichols and an ironic tale told Science Museum taught us about structed. . and lies on a vast and open of Kit Carson. Kit had a tent blow cryogenic technology and then on to praIrIe. down on top of him during a storm Santa Fe National Cemetery. One June 10th and had to be helped out by other sol unique gravestone was of Private This is the last day of the trip. diers. That story certainly sounds fa O'Leary. He carved his own stone miliar! There was stormy weather, glitches before committing suicide on the ex in accommodations, and the bath .. Bad weather must be following us! act date marked on the rock. Buffalo room facilities were not the best. Storm warnings are out, so the deci Soldier re-enactors came to the Po Was the trip worth the trouble'? Ab sion has been made to stay at the joaque Middle School in the evening. solutely! I have never learned or Clayton New Mexico National Guard What a tough and determined group seen so much in a ten-day period. My Armory. The good news, the facility of people! body will catch up on sleep and the has showers! June 7th memories will last forever. I felt it a June 4th After two days in the Santa Fe privilege to be a chaperone on the The long stretch of road has as area, we will take the Mountain 2003 Santa Fe Trail Trip. I am proud many antelope as passing cars (the Route home. We departed camp and to be a survivor! bus passengers tallied). The first left for El Rancho de las Golondri stop of the day was Lee Daniel's nas, a living-history museum of TEACHERS LEARN HISTORY AT ranch. Mr. Daniel owns somewhere Spanish Colonial New Mexico. A fes OJC SUMMER ACADEMY between 20,000 to 30,000 acres. He tival was taking place inside the LA JUNTA - Each year in June, explained that it took around thirty walls. I washed my hands in lye Otero Junior College hosts a Sum acres to keep a cow/calf pair. I can't soap, made a tortilla, and also helped mer Academy for K-12 teachers from imagine checking the fences! The make a quilt. throughout southeastern Colorado. wagon ruts can be described as pris Next stop, Las Vegas, New Mex The Academy gives teachers the op tine. A short stop was made at the ico. We drove to the top of a pri portunity to obtain credits for re town of Wagon Mound to sing at the vately-owned mesa and viewed the certification locally, without having city hall and then a walk through the wagon swales coming into Las Ve to travel to larger metro areas. Catholic and Protestant cemeteries. gas. The vastness of the land is in For the second year, teachers had Onward to Fort Union to see the re credible and the thought that men the opportunity to take a course ti mains of the adobe fort and tomor and women walked the trail along tled, "Archaeology and History in row, Santa Fe! side their wagons is mind-boggling. your Own Backyard, The Santa Fe June 5th What difficulties they must have en Trail, Boggsville and Southeastern The ranger at Pecos Ruins ex countered along the way. Colorado." The course was held at plained the history of this area and June 8th the Boggsville Historic Site in Bent the students walked the tour to see After departing camp, we went to County, Colorado, on June 16 and the ruins and the mission church. On Capulin Volcano National Monu 17. Over a two-day period, teachers to Santa Fe and the first stop was the were provided with a detailed per • ment. We split into tour groups and • Loretta Chapel, which is the site of walked around the rim of the vol spective concerning the historical the Miracle Staircase. What a beau cano. Some of my girls were fright events that played out in Southeast tiful piece of carpentry! The students ened and didn't want to continue the ern Colorado beginning in the 17th were thrilled to shop on the Plaza for hike. We finally made it to the high century. Instructors for the course four hours. Silver jewelry, blankets, est point of the rim, and we were re included John Carson, history teach T-shirts, and postcards were the warded with a spectacular view. One er, professional historical interpre most sought after items. Believe it could see several states from here. ter, and great-grandson" of Kit Car not, the students actually spent their son; and Richard Carrillo, resident . money wisely and were pleased with The next stop was the Mountain Man Rendezvous located on the Na historical archaeologist and Educa their purchases. In the evening, Na tional Director at Boggsville. Car tasha Williams, a re-enactor came to tional Rifle Association grounds near Raton, New Mexico. Friendly and ac rillo is also president of the Bent's the Pojoaque Middle School. What a Fort Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail story from the Civil War Era! Tears cepting people dressed in authentic costumes and staying in period shel Association. came to my eyes as she told how her Day one of the course covered the son was killed in the Battle of Glori ters met us. The students were de lighted to find blankets, fur skins, basics of historical archaeology and eta. and jewelry to buy. how to incorporate practical involve- August 2003 Wagon Trachs 21 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 21 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 ment with students in the classroom. The group then took a look at the his torical overview of Southeastern Colorado, including periods from the Pre-European, Spanish, Mexican, Fur Trade, Trans-Mississippi Trade, and Southern Rockies Fur Trade. Day two expanded the historical overview to cover the Santa Fe Trail era, including the physical trail, life on the trail, and Bent's Fort. The course concluded with an overview of the development of Boggsville and a historical archaeology tour of the site. The historic Boggsville site is lo cated on the Purgatoire River, two miles south of present-day Las Ani mas on Colorado Highway 101. The settlement was founded on a branch of the Santa Fe Trail about 1862 by Thomas O. Boggs, his wife Rumalda Wagon Mound, looking southeast, with village at lower right and State Highway 120 Luna Bent (a stepdaughter of Char shown through town and across the center of picture. The Trail was to the left of this les Bent), L. A. Allen, and Charles photo. Rite. The site is open daily and group tours are offered by reservation. For PIKE'S COLUMN more information on the historic Boggsville site, contact Richard Car [This special column will continue as t~ t4 Wagon Tracks rillo at 719-384-8113 or the Las Ani 'f a series in until the mas Chamber of Commerce at 719 close of the Zebulon Montgomery 456-0453. The website for the site is: Pike Southwestern Expedition Bicen 22 Wagon Trachs August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 22 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) Presbyterian Chmch in 1873. In their honor the ch.lrch has placed new stones at the family cemetery plot near the east entrance of the cemetery. Pictured below are Pastor Jim Hawthorne and Alice Clapsad dle at the dedication of the grave stones on May 25, 2003. • .> Sculptor Ken Williams by the central Another view of the central stand of stand of his memorial to Pike's visit to Williams's monument; note schematic Colorado. of the Arkansas River in the pavement scope toward the mountain that beneath the stand. bears his name. A silhouette of the designed and worked to create the PUEBLO'S NEW MONUMENT Front Range tops the central stand. monument, but he will quickly name TO ZEBULON M. PIKE Imbedded in the sidewalk on ei a large number of other individuals ther side of the central stand is a within his studio and in the commu by Peyton Abbott schematic of the Arkansas River. nity who aided in its concept and de [SFTA member Abbott, Pueblo, CO, Pike's route up the Arkansas and velopment. Ken is well known in is worl~ing on the Pike expedition into the mountains is shown by a line Pueblo. With his wife Judith, also an route through his area.] of small round porcelain medallions artist, his daughters Gwyn and Ali that copy the ring on the central son, and studio assistant Steve Jar STANDING alongside the water stand. Off to the side are boulders rett, he works out of The Williams way in Pueblo's Historic Arkansas representing "The Grand Peak" Studio at Thirteenth and Erie River Project (HARP) are two monu (Pikes Peak) and the "Blue Moun Streets in Pueblo. Williams works in ments commemorating the visit to tains" (Pike's name for the Front a numberofmedia; the sound barrier the area of Zebulon Montgomery Range and the Wet Mountains). along the south side of State High Pike's party in the late autumn of At a number of spots along Wil way 47 near the University in Pueblo 1806. The older of the two is a river liams's sidewalk river are larger me is Williams's work. The ceramic cobble pillar holding a brass plaque dallions illustrating quotations from covered wall separating Interstate placed by the Daughters of the Pike's diary and located at or near 25 from the railroad and Fountain American Revolution (DAR), which the place on the Arkansas where the Creek near Thirteenth Street in tells of the event. This monument diary entry was made. For example, Pueblo was designed by Judith Wil· was moved from a nearby location near the confluence with the "First liams. The studio also makes beauti when HARP was completed. There is Fork" or Purgatoire River, is a large ful pottery, but their specialty is no indication when it was first medallion with a turkey and cotton sculptured brick. Williams's deep placed. The new monument, by wood leaves. In the ring around the relief brick structures can be found Pueblo sculptor Ken Williams, is an medallion are quotations from the throughout the United States and in interpretive monument with a cen· Mexico on or in churches, civic build • November 13, 1806, diary entry: • tral stand holding a brass bust of "The river banks began to be entirely ings, shopping malls, and private Pike circled by a ring bearing his covered with woods on both sides, residences. Visitors to Pueblo can see name and a quotation from Pike's di but no other species than cotton· examples of his brick sculpture on ary. Pike is peering through a tele- wood." And "Discovered signs of war the facade of the School District 60 parties ascending the river" and administration building and on the "Killed one turkey." Pueblo Transportation. Center. He The river and riverbanks are enjoys working with historical decorated with representations of themes. wildlife: fish, buffalo, deer, bird The new monument is an attrac tracks, and the like. The schematic tive addition to the HARP area and covers Pike's entire route through an appropriate commemoration of what is now Colorado, including his the upcoming bicentennial of the visit to the South Platte in South Pike Expedition, 1806-1807. Every Park and the Rio Grande in the San one traveling in the' Pueblo area is Luis Valley. urged to stop and look at this new Bronze plaque on the DAR monument. Ken Williams is the sculptor who memorial. August 2003 Wagon Tracks 23 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 23 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 PIKE'S JOURNAL, PART /I cat, one goose, and one turkey. Dis pearance ofa fine day. Passed Gravel tance 18 miles. river on the west. About three miles This reprint of Plke's journal of the 4th August, Monday.-We embarked above this river the Indians left us expedition of 1806-1807 continues, early and continued on for some and informed me, by keeping a little starting wlth the July 31, 1806, en time, not being able to find a suitable to the south and west, they would try. They were on the Osage River in place to dry our things, but at length make in 15 miles what would be at Missouri. stopped on the east shore. Here we least 35 miles for us. Dr. Robinson, Pike's Journal had to ferry the Indians over a small Mr. Henry, and serjeant Ballenger accompanied them. Killed two deer. 31st July, Thursday.-We embarked channel which we did not before ob Distance 13 miles. early, and passed several rapids serve; all of them, however, not ar pretty well. Dined with the Indians. riving, we put off and continued our 7th August, Thursday.-Not being Two of them left us in the morning route. Finding our progress much detained by Indians, we are for once for the village, and they all had an impeded by our mast, I unshipped it enabled to embark at a quarter past idea of doing the same, but finally and stripped it of its iron, and, after five o'clock. The river havlng fell, concluded otherwise. One of the lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our since yesterday morning, about four Osage, who had left the party for the names on it, set it adrift, followed by feet, we wish to improve every mo village, returned and reported that the yards. This mast had been cut ment of time prevlous to its entire he had seen and heard strange and made at Pine creek, Upper Mis fall. We proceeded extremely well, Indians in the woods. This we sissippi. After proceeding some passed the Saline river on the east, considered as merely a pretext to miles, we found the Indians on the and encamped opposite La Belle come back. I this day lost my dog, west shore, they having rafted the Roche on the west shore. This day we and the misfortune was the greater, river. We stopped for them to cook, passed many beautiful cliffs on both as we had no other dog which would after which we proceeded on. The sides ofthe river; saw a bear and wolf brlng anything out ofthe water. This navigation had become very difficult swimming the river. I employed my was the dog Fisher had presented to from the rapidity of the current, oc self part of the day in translating me at Prairie des Chiens. Killed casioned by the rise of the water, into French a talk of general Wilkin three deer and one turkey. Distance which rose one foot in an hour. Killed son to Cheveux Blanche. Distance 21 18 miles. two deer. Distance 10 miles. Rainy. miles. 1st August, Friday.-It having rain 5th August, Tuesday.-We lay by 8th August, Friday.-We embarked ed all night, the river appeared to this day, in order to give the Indlans 20 minutes past five o'clock. Found have risen about six inches. We an opportunity to dry their baggage. the river had fallen about two feet spread out our baggage to dry, but it Dr. Robinson and myself, accompa during the night. At the confluence continuing to rain, by intervals, all nied by Mr. Henry, went out to hunt; of the Youngar with the Osage river day, the things were wetter at sun we lost the latter about two miles we breakfasted. Encamped at night down than in the morning. We rolled from c·amp. After hunting some time on a bar. Distance 21 miles. them up, and left them on the beach. on the west shore, we concluded to 9th August, Saturday.-We em We sent out two hunters in the raft the river, which we effected with barked at five o'clock, and at half morning, one of whom killed three difficulty and danger, and hunted for past six o'clock met the Indians and deer; all the Indians killed three some time, but without success. We our gentlemen. They had met with more-Total, six. then returned to the party and found nothing extraordinary. They had Mr. Henry, who had been lost, had 2d August, Saturday.-The weather killed in their excursion seven deer arrived one hour before us: he had cleared up. The loading being spread and three bear. We proceeded to an met one of the soldiers, who brought out to dry, Dr. Robinson, myself, old wintering ground, where there him in. To-day in our tour I passed Bradley, Sparks, and Brown went were eight houses, which were occu over a remarkably large rattlesnake, out to hunt. We killed four deer; the pied last winter by , who had as he lay curled up, and trod so. near Indians two. Havlng reloaded the not been able to proceed any higher him as to touch him with my foot, he boats, we embarked at five o'clock, for want of water. Passed the Old drawing himselfup to make room for and came about two miles. The river Man's Rapids, below which, on the my heel. rose, in the last twenty-four hours, west shore, are some beautiful cliffs. four inches. Dr. Robinson, who followed me, Dined with the Indians, after which was on the point of treading on him, 3d August, Sunday.-Embarked we passed Upper Gravel river on the but by a spring avoided it. I then west, Pottoe river on the east. early, and wishing to save the fresh, turned round and touched him with Sparks went out to hunt, and did not I pushed hard all day. Sparks was my ram-rod, but he shewed no dispo arrive at our encampment, nor did lost, and did not arrive until night. sition to bite, and appeared quite the Indians. Distance 25 miles. We encamped about 25 paces from peaceable. The gratitude which I felt the river, on a sand-bar. Near day I 10th August, Sunday.-Embarked a towards him for not having bitten me heard the sentry observe that the quarter past five o'clock, when the induced me to save his life. Killed boats had better be brought in, when sun shone out very clearly; but in 15 four deer. River rises thirteen I got up and found the water within a minutes it began to rain, and contin inches. Rain continues. rod of our tent, and before we could ued to rain very hard until one get all our things out it had reached 6th August, Wednesday.-We em o'clock. Passed the Indians, who the tent. Killed nine deer, one wild- barked at half past eight o'clock, it were encamped on the west shore, having cleared off and had the ap- about half a mile, and halted for 24 Wagon Trachs August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 24 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) them. They all forded the river but posed some other person had at we saw and brought to a canoe Sans Oreille, who ;)rought his wife tached it to his baggage; but that, manned with three engagees of Mr. up to the boats, and informed me knowing it to be my soldier's, I re -:----::-' who informed us that the Lit that Sparks had encamped with quested him to deliver it up, or I tle Osage had marched a war party them, but left them early to return in should be obliged to take other meas against the Kans, and the Grand Os search of us. We proceeded after ures to obtain it." This had the de age a party against our citizens on • breakfast. Sparks arrived just at the sired effect; for I certainly should the Arkansaw river. Wrote by them moment we were embarking. The In have put my threats into execution to the general and all friends. Gave dians traversing the country on the from this principle, formed from my the poor fellows some whiskey and east had sent Sparks with Sans Or experience during my intercourse eight quarts of corn, they having had eille. About two o'clock A. M. split a with Indians, that ifyou have justice only two turkies for four days. We plank in the bottom of the batteaux. on your side, and do not enforce it, left them and proceeded, passing on Unloaded and turned her up, re they universally despise you. When our east some of the largest cedars I paired the breach, and continued on we stopped for dinner, one of men ever saw. Came on very well in the the route: by four o'clock found the took his gun and went out; not hav afternoon, and encamped on an is Indians behind a large island: we ing returned when we were ready to land above Turkey island. Distance made no stop, and they followed us. re embark, I left him. Passed the In 28 miles. We encamped together on a bar, dians twice when they were crossing 15th August, Friday.-We embarked where we proposed halting to dry our the river. Passed some very beautiful at five o'clock, and at eight o'clock corn, &c., on Monday. Killed four cliffs on the west shore; also Vermil met the Indians and the gentlemen deer. Distance 18 1-2 miles. lion and Grand rivers,. the latter of who accompanied them. Found all 11th August, Monday.-We contin which is a large stream, and en well. They had been joined by their ued here to dry our corn and bag camped at the __ friends and relatives from the vil gage. This morning we had a match Immediately after our encamp lage, with horses to transport their at shooting: the prize offered to the ment a thunder storm came on, baggage. Lieutenant Wilkinson in successful person was a jacket and a which blew overboard my flag-staff formed me that their meeting was twist of tobacco, which I myself was and a number of articles of my cloth very tender and affection so fortunate as to win; I made the ar ing, which were on top of the cabin, ate-"Wives throwing themselves ticles, however, a present to the and sunk them immediately. Being into the arms of their husbands, par young fellow who waited on me. Af much fatigued and the bank difficult ents embracing their children, and ter this, taking Huddleston with me, of ascent, lay down in the cabin, children their parents, brothers and I went out to hunt: after travelling without supper and slept all night. It sisters meeting, one from captivity, about twelve miles we arrived at the continued to rain. The man I left on the other from the towns-they, at the river, almost exhausted with thirst. I shore arrived on the opposite bank in same time, returning thanks to the here indulged myself by drinking the night, having killed two deer; but Good God for having brought them plentifully ofthe water, and was ren was obliged to leave the largest be once more together;"-in short, the dered so extremely unwell by it, that hind. Finding he was not to be sent toute ensemble was such as to make I was scarce capable of pursuing my for, he concealed his gun and deer, polished society blush, when com route to the camp. On arriving oppo and swam the river. Distance 24 pared with those savages, in whom site it, I swam the river, from which I miles. the passions of the mind, whether experienced considerable relief. The 13th August, Wednesday.-It contin joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, party informed me they had found ued to rain. In the morning sent a have their full scope: why can we not the heat very oppressive, and the boat over for Sparks's gun and deer. correct the baneful passions, without mercury, at sun-down, was at 25° weakening the goodT Sans Oreille • Embarked at half past 9 o'clock. Reaumer. This day, for the first time, Stopped to dine at two o'clock. Dur made them a speech, in which he re I saw trout west of the Allegheny ing the time we halted, the river rose marked, "Osage, you now see your , mountains. Reloaded our boats, and over the flat bar, on which we were: wives, your brothers, your daugh • finished two new oars, which were this, if we had no other proof, would ters, your sons, redeemed from cap requisite. convince us we were near the head of tivity. Who did this? was it the Span 12th August, Tuesday.-Previously the river, as the rain must have iards? No. The French? No. Had ei +-r...... +-~,...n Thl· ~h 1:...... 1 ...... " ...... ~nnnherl;~ nl~nst pn~fnn~ L,U UUl emh1 UQl.n...aLlv...... ,..l...... 1, .....VV 11 \.,1 ...... LVVn... jJ.lGvC l.tJG ..... \AlL. UTn"Yc;uamndnca BtU a C1. C;\...lr ther of those people been governors at half past five o'clock, I was obliged circle, so that I do not believe we of the country, your relatives might to convince my red brethren that, if I were, at night, three miles from have rotted in captivity, and you protected them, I would not suffer where we encamped last night. This never would have seen them; but the them to plunder my men with impu day, for the first time, we have prai Americans stretched forth their nity, for the chief had got one of my rie hills. Distance 13 miles. hands, and they are returned to you!! lads' tin cups attached to his bag 14th August, Thursday.-Embarked What can you do in return for all this gage, and notwithstanding it was at half past five o'clock. Passed the goodness? Nothing: all your lives marked with the initials of the sol Park, which is ten miles round, and would not suffice to repay their good dier's name, he refused to give it up. not more than three quarters of a ness." This man had children in cap On which I requested the interpreter mile across, bearing from S. 5° E. to tivity, not one of whom we were able to tell him, "that I had no idea that due N. At its head we breakfasted, to obtain for him. he had purloined the cup, but sup- and just as we were about to put off The chief then requested that lieu- August 2003 Wagon Tracks 25 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 25 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 tenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson on both sides. Distance 411-2 miles. twelve o'clock I dispatched Baroney might be permitted to accompany 18th August, Monday.-We put off at for the chiefs of the Grand village, in them by land, which I consented to. halfpast five o'clock. Stopped at nine order to give the general's parole to Wrote a letter to Cheveux Blanche, o'clock to breakfast. Passed the sec the Cheveux Blanche, also a young by lieutenant Wilkinson. When we ond fork of the river at twelve o'clock, man to the village of the Little Os parted (after delivering the Indians the right hand fork bearing N. about age. The Cheveux Blanche and his their baggage) Sans Oreille put an 30 yards wide, the left (the one we people arrived about three o'clock, Indian on board, to hunt, or obey any pursued) N. 60° W. and not more and after waiting some time for the other commands I might have for than 50 or 60 feet in width, very full Wind and his people, I just informed him. We stopped at eleven o'clock to of old trees, &c. but plenty of water. the chiefs that I had merely assem dry our baggage. Found our biscuit Observed the road where the chiefs bled them to deliver the parole of the and crackers almost all ruined. Put and lieutenant Wilkinson crossed. general, and present the marks of off at half past four o'clock, and en We proceeded until one o'clock, when distinction indeed for the Cheveux camped at three quarters past five we were halted by a large drift quite Blanche and his son, hanging a o'clock. Distance 15~ miles. across the river. Dispatched Baroney grand medal round the neck of the 16th August, Saturday.-We em to the village of the Grand Osage, to latter. The packets committed to my barked at five o'clock and came on procure horses to take our baggage charge for the relations of the de extremely well in the barge to a nearer to the towns; unloaded our ceased Osages, were then delivered French hunting camp (evacuated), boats, and in about two hours lieu to them, the widow making the dis twelve miles to breakfast, the ba tenant Wilkinson, with Tuttasuggy, tribution. It must be remarked that I teaux coming up late: we exchanged arrived at our camp, the former of had merely requested the Cheveux hands. About twelve o'clock passed whom presented me an express from Blanche to come with his son, and re the grand fork, which is equal in size the general, and letters from my ceive the general's message; but in to the one on which we pursued our friends. The chiefs remained at our stead of coming with a few chiefs, he route. Waited to dine at the rocks camp all night. I was attacked by a was accompanied by 186 men, to all called the Swallow's Nest, on the violent head-ache. It commenced of whom we were obliged to give west shore above the forks. The ba raining, and continued with great something to drink. When the coun teaux having gained nearly half an force until day. Distance 19 1-4 cil was over we mounted our horses hour, the crews are convinced that it miles. and rode to the village, and halted at is not the boat, but men who make 19th August, Tuesday.-We com the quarters of the chief, where we the difference: each take their own menced very early to arrange our were regaled with boiled pumpkins: boat, after which we proceeded very baggage, but had not finished at one then we went to two different well, the water being good and men o'clock, when the chief of the Grand houses, and were invited to many in spirits. Saw an elk on the shore, Osage, and 40 or 50 men of his vil others, but declined, promising that also met an old man alone hunting, lage, arrived with horses. We loaded I would pay them a visit, previous to from whom we obtained no informa and took our departure for the place my departure, and spend the whole tion of consequence. Encamped on where Manuel de Liza had his estab day. We then returned to camp. After the west shore at Mine river. Passed lishment, at which we arrived about· enquiring of White Hair ifthe men of the place where the chief, called the four o'clock, and commenced pitch Manuel de Liza had any ostensible Belle Oiseau, and others were killed ing our encampment near the edge of object in view, he informed me that [by Sac Indians in 1804]. Distance 37 the prairie, when I was informed they had only said to him that they miles. that three men had arrived from St. expected Manuel would be up to 17th August, Sunday.-We em Louis, sent by Manuel de Liza. I dis trade in the autumn. I concluded to barked at five o'clock and came patched lieutenant Wilkinson to the take the deposition of Babtiste twelve miles to breakfast. At four village, with Baroney, who brought Larme as to the manner in which he • o'clock arrived at ten French houses to camp the man who had charge of was employed by Manuel de Liza, on the east shore, where was then re the others from St. Louis: he having and forward the same to Dr. Brown siding a Sac, who was married to an no passport, I detained him until fur and the attorney-general of Louisi Osage femme and spoke Frenchonly. ther consideration. Our reception by ana, and permit the men to return to We afterwards passed the position the Osage was flattering, and par St. Louis, as it was impossible for me where Mr. Chouteau formerly had ticularly by the White Hair and our to detach a party with them as pris his fort, not a vestige of which was fellow-travellers. This evening there oners. remaining, the spot being only arrived in the village of the Grand 21st August, Thursday.-In the marked by the superior growth of ·Osage an express from the Arkan morning White Hair paid us a visit, vegetation. Here the river bank is saw, who brought the news that a and brought us a present of corn, one solid bed of stone-coal, just below boat, ascending that river, had been meat, and grease, and we invited which is a very shoal and rapid rip fired on, and had two white men him, his son, and son-in-law to ple; from whence to the village of the killed and two wounded, and that breakfast with us, and gave his com Grand Osage is nine miles across a the brother-in-law of the Cheveux panions something to eat. I then large prairie. We came about two Blanche, who happened to be on wrote a number of letters to send by miles above, and encamped on the board, was also killed. This put the express, and enclosed the deposition west shore. This day the river has whole village in mourning. of Larme. In the afternoon we rode to been generally bounded by prairies 20th August, Wednesday.-About the village of the Little Osage, and 26 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 26 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) were received by our fellow know the geographical location of able to leaving her to the uncertain travellers with true hospitality. Re the two villages, but conceived that, safe-guard of the Indians. About this turned in the evening, when a tre in going to the Little Village, they time we received news that the party mendous storm of rain, thunder and would passed by the Grand Village, of Potowatomies were discovered to lightning commenced, and continued and of course that lieutenant Wilkin be near the towns. I gave them the with extraordinary violence until son and the chief would arrange the best advice I was capable of giving, half past nine o'clock. It was with affair properly. and then returned to our camp. great difficulty we were enabled to 23d August, Saturday.-.I expected 27th August, Wednesday.-Spent in keep our tents from blowing down. to have received from the chiefs their arranging our baggage for the The place prepared for an observa answers to my demands; but re horses. Received four horses from tory was carried away. ceived an express from both villages, the Little Village a~nd two from the 22d August, Friday.-Preparing in informing me that they wished to put Big Village. In the evening lieuten the morning for the council, and com them off until to-morrow. I then ad ant Wilkinson rode to the Grand Vil , mitting to paper the heads of the justed my instruments. Took equal lage. I observed two immersions of subject on which I intended to speak. altitudes and a merdional altitude of Jupiter's satellites. The chiefs ofthe Little Osage arrived the sun, but, owing to flying clouds, 28th August, Thursday.-Writing to . about one o'clock, also the inter missed the immersions of Jupiter's the secretary at war and the general, preter of the Grand Osage, who pre satellites. making arrangements for our depar tended to say that the Grand Osage 24th August, Sunday.-Was nearly ture. Visited by the Wind and Sans had expected us at their village with half the day in adjusting the line of Oreille. the Little Osage. The Cheveux collimation in the telescopic sights of 29th August, Friday.-Forenoon Blanche arrives with his chiefs. The my theodolite. It began to cloud bef writing letters. In the afternoon Dr. ceremony of the council being ar ore evening, and althought the sky Robinson and myself went to .the ranged, I delivered them the gen was not entirely covered, I was so un Grand Village, at which we saw the eral's parole forwarded by express. fortunate as to miss the time of an medicine dance. Remained at the vil My reason for not delivering it until immersion and (although clear in the lage all night. this time was, in order to have the intermediate period) an emersion two villages together, as it was 30th August, Saturday.-Returned also. I was informed by Baroney that to the camp after settling all my af equally interesting to both. After the Little Village had made up this I explained at large the will, fairs at the town. Sealed up our dis eleven horses for us. In the evening, patches and sent offthe general's ex wishes, and advice of their Great Fa however, the interpreter, accompa ther, and the mode which I conceived press. In the afternoon we were vis nied by the Son-in-law and son ofthe ited by the principal men at the Lit most applicable to carry them into ef Cheveux Blanche, came to camp, and fect. The Cheveux Blanche replied in tle Village and the chief, to whom I informed me that there were no presented a flag, and made the dona a few words, and promised to give me horses to be got in the village of the a full reply to-morrow. The Wind re tions which I conceived requisite to Big Osage. the different Indians, on account· of plied to the same amount; after 25th August, Monday.-In the morn which the Cheveux Blanche ad horses, &c. ing we were visited by the Cheveux 31st August, Sunday.-Arranging dressed himself to the Wind as fol Blanche and three or four of his lows;-"I am shocked at your conduct, our packs and loading our horses, in chiefs, who were pleased to accord to order to fit our loads, as we expected Tuttasuggy, you who have lately my demands. He found much diffi come from the States, and should to march on the morrow. Up late culty in informing me that, in all his writing letters. have been wise; bFt you led the re village, he could only raise four • deemed captives, with an officer of horses, but that we should be accom 1st September, Monday.-Struck our the United States, to your village, in panied by his son and son-in-law. I tents early in the morning, and com stead of bringing them through my then expressed to him the difference menced loading our horses. We now , town in the first instance. II To this discovered that an Indian had stolen • of our expectations from the reality. the Wind made no reply, but left his He remained until after twelve a large black horse, which the seat shortly after under pretence of o'clock, when I went to the Little Os Cheveux Blanche had presented to giving some orders to his young men. age village, and was received with lieutenant Wilkinson. I mounted a - . I conceived this reprimand intended great friendship by the chief. Re- . horse to pursue him; but the inter barely to shew us the superiority of mained all night at the house of Tut preter sent to town, and the chiefs the one and inferiority of the other, tasuggy. Took the census. wife sent another in its place. We left and originated, in my opinion, from the place about twelve' o'clock with an altercation of lieutenant Wilkin 26th August, Tuesday.-Rose early fifteen loaded horses, our party con son and the Cheveux Blanche, in and found my friends in council, sisting of two lieutenants, one doc which allusions were made by the which was merely relative to our tor, two sergeants, one corporal, fif former, on the friendly conduct of the horses. The chief then declared their teen privates, two interpreters, three Little Chief, (alias the Wind) when determination to me, and that he Pawnees, and four chiefs of the compared to that of the latter. I must himself gave me one horse, and lent Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 here observe that when the chiefs me eight more to carry our baggage warriors and one woman. We crossed and prisoners left me, accompanied to the Pawnees. Sold the old bateaux the Grand Osage fork and a prairie by lieutenant Wilkinson, I did not for 100 dollars, in merchandise, N. 80° W. five miles to the fork of the which I conceived infinitely prefer- August 2003 Wagon Tracks 27 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 27 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 Little Osage. Joined by Sans Oreille deer, one turkey, one raccoon. Dis regular swells, as far as the sight can and seven Little Osage, all of whom I tance 13 miles. extend, produces a very beautiful ap equipped for the march. Distance 8 5th September, Friday.-In the pearance. We left our course, and miles. morning our Little Osage all came to struck down to the south-west on a 2d September, Tuesday.-Marched a determination to return, and, small creek, or rather a puddle ofwa at six o'clock. Halted at ten o'clock, much to my surprise, Sans Oreille ter. Killed one deer. Distance 20 and two o'clock on the side of the amongst the rest! I had given an or· miles. creek, our route having been all the der on the chiefs for the lost horse to 7th September, Sunday.-We left time on its borders. Whilst there I be delivered to Sans Oreille's wife, this at half past six o'clock, before was informed by a young Indian that previously to my knowing that he which we had a difficulty with the Mr. C. Chouteau had arrived at the was going back, but took from him son ofthe chief, which was accommo towns. I conceived it proper for me to his gun, and the guns from all the dated. At nine o'clock we came on a return, which I did, accompanied by others also. In about five miles we large fork and stopped for breakfast. Baroney, first to the Little Village; struck a beautiful hill, which bears Proceeded on and encamped on a fine from whence we were accompanied south on the prairie: its elevation I stream, where we swam our horses by the Wind to the BigVillage, where suppose to be 100 feet. From its sum and bathed ourselves. Killed four we remained all night at the lodge of mit the view is sublime to the east deer. Distance 15 miles. Cheveux Blanche. Mr. Chouteau and south-east. We waited on this 8th September, Monday.-Marched gave us the news; after which I hill to breakfast, and had to send two early, and arrived at a grand fork of scrawled a letter to the general and miles for water. Killed a deer on the the White river. The Indians were all my friends. rise, which was soon roasting before discontented: we had taken the 3d September, Wednesday.-Rose the fire. Here another Indian wished wrong ford; but, as they were dis early, and went to the Little Village to return and take his horse with persed through the woods, we could to breakfast. After giving my letters him, which, as we had so few, I could not be governed by their movements. to Mr. Henry, and arranging my af not allow, for he had already re Previously to our leaving the camp, fairs, we proceeded, and overtook our ceived a gun for the use ofhis horse. I the son of the Cheveux Blanche pro party at two o'clock. They had left told him he might return, but his posed returning, and offered no other their first camp about four miles. horse would go to the Pawnees. We reason that that he felt too lazy to Our horses being much fatigued, we marched, leaving the Osage trace, perform the route. The reason I of concluded to remain all night. Sent which we had hitherto followed, and fered to prevent his going was inef out our red and white hunters, all of crossed the hills to a creek which was fectual, and he departed with his whom only killed two turkies. Dis almost dry. Descended it to the main hunter, who deprived us of one tance 4 miles. river, where we dined. The discon horse. His return left us without any 4th September, Thursday.-When tented Indian came up, and put on chief or man of consideration, except about to march in the morning, one an air of satisfaction and content. We the son of the Belle Oiseau, who was of our horses was missing, and we again marched about six miles fur but a lad. The former appeared to be left Sans Oreille, with the two Pawn ther, and encamped at the head of a a discontented young fellow, and ees, to search for him, and proceeded small creek, about half a mile from filled with self pride: he certainly till about nine o'clock; then stopped water. Distance 19 miles. should have considered it as an until twelve o'clock, and then 6th September, Saturday.-We honor to be sent on so respectable an marched. In about half an hour was marched at half past six o'clock, and embassy as he was. Another Indian, overtaken and informed that Sans arrived at a large fork ofthe little Os who owned one of our horses, wished Oreille had not been able to find our age river, where we breakfasted. In to return with him, which was posi horse; on which we encamped, and the holes in the creek we discovered tively refused him; but fearing he • sent two horses back for the load. many fish, which, from the stripes on might steal him, I contented him One of the Indians, being jealous of their bellies, and their spots, I sup with a present. We marched, and his wife, sent her back to the village. posed to be trout and bass: they were made the second branch, crossing After making the necessary notes, twelve inches long. This brought to one prairie twelve miles, in which we Dr. Robinson and myself took our mind the necessity of a net, which suffered much with drought. Dis horses and followed the course of the would have frequently afforded sub tance 22 miles. little stream, until we arrived at the .sistence to the whole party. We 9th September, Tuesday.-Marched Grand river, which was distant halted at one o'clock and remained at seven o'clock, and struck a large about six miles. We here found a until four o'clock. Being told that we creek at eleven miles distance. On most delightful basin of clear water, could not arrive at any water, we holding a council, it was determined of 25 paces diameter and about 100 here filled our vessels. At five o'clock to ascend this creek to the highest in circumference, in which we arrived at the dividing ridge, be point of water, and then strike across bathed; found it deep and delight tween the waters of the Osage and to a large river of the Arkansaw. We fully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever Arkansaw (alias White river), the ascended four miles and a half, and formed a more beautiful place for a dry branches of which interlock encamped. Killed one cabrie, two farm. We returned to camp about within 20 yards of each other. The deer, two turkies. Distance 12 miles. dusk, when I was informed that prospect from the dividing ridge to 10th September, Wednesday.-Mar some of the Indians had been dream the east and south-east is sublime. ched early. Struck and passed the di ing and wished to return. Killed one The prairie rising and falling in vide between the Grand river and 28 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 28 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) the Verdegris riv'~r. Stopped to White river and the Kans. This ridge which there was a large rock, where breakfast on a small stream of the was covered with a layer of stone, the Indians kept a continual senti latter; after which we marched and which was strongly impregnated nel, as I imagine, to apprise them of encamped on the fourth small with iron ore, and on the west side of the approach of any party, friends or stream. Killed one elk, one deer. Dis said ridge we found spa springs. foes, as well as to see if they could tance 21 miles. Halted at one o'clock, very much discover any game on the prairies. 11th September, Thursday.-Passed against the inclination of the Osage, 20th September, Saturday.-It ap four branches and over high hilly who, from the running of the buffalo, pearing as if we possibly might have prairies. Encamped at night on a conceived a party of the Kans to be a clear day, I ordered our baggage large branch of Grand river. Killed near. Killed two buffalo. Distance 18 spread abroad to dry; but it shortly one cabrie, one deer. Distance 17 miles. after clouded up and commenced miles. 16th September, Tuesday.-Mar raining. The Osage sentinel discov 12th September, Friday.-Com ched late, and in about four miles ered a buffalo on the prairies; upon menced our march at seven o'clock. and a half distance, came to a very which we dispatched a hunter on Passed very ruff flint hills. My feet handsome branch of water, at which horseback in pursuit of him,also blistered and very sore. I stood on a we stopped and remained until after some hunters out on foot, and before ·' hill, and in one view below me saw two o'clock, when we marched and night they killed three buffalo, some buffalo, elk, deer, cabrie, and pan crossed two branches. Encamped on of the best of which we brought in thers. Encamped on the main branch the third. At the second creek a horse and jerked or dried by the fire. It con of Grand river, which had very steep was discovered on the prairie, when tinued showery until afternoon, banks and was deep. Dr. Robinson, Baroney went in pursuit of him on a when we put our baggage again in Bradley, and Baroney arrived after horse of lieutenant Wilkinson, but position to dry, and remained en dusk, having killed three buffalo, arrived at our camp without success. camped. The detention of the doctor which, with one I killed, and two by Distance 13 miles. and our Pawnee ambassador began the Indians, made six; the Indians 17th September, Wednesday.-Mar to be a serious matter of considera alledging it was the Kans' hunting ched early and struck the main tion. ground, therefore they would destroy south-east branch of the Kans river: 21st September, Sunday.-We mar all the game they possibly could. Dis at nine o'clock it appeared to be 25 or ched at eight o'clook [sic], although tance 18 miles. 30 yards wide, and is navigable in every appearance of rain, and at 13th September, Saturday.-Late in the flood seasons. We passed it six eleven o'clock passed a large creek marching, it having every appear miles to a small branch to breakfast. remarkably salt. Stopped at one ance of rain. Halted to dine on a Game getting scarce, our provision o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt branch of Grand river. Marched began to run low. Marched about two creek. Our interpreter having killed again at half past two o'clock, and o'clock, and encamped at sun-down an elk, we sent out for some meat, halted at five, intending to dispatch on a large branch. Killed one buffalo. which detained us so late that I con Dr. Robinson and one of our Pawnees Distance 21 miles. cluded it best to encamp where we to the village to-morrow. Killed six 18th September, Thursday.-March were, in preference to running the buffalo, one elk, and three deer. Dis ed at our usual hour, and at twelve risk of finding no water. Lieutenant tance 9 miles. o'clock halted at a large branch of the Wilkinson was attacked with a se 14th September, Sunday.-The doc Kans, which was strongly impreg vere head head-ache and slight fe tor and Frank (a young Pawnee) nated with salt. This day we ex ver. One of my men had been at marched for the village at day-light; pected the people of the village to tacked with a touch of the pleurisy we at half past six o'clock. Halted at meet us. We marched again at four on the 18th, and was still ill. We • one o'clock. On the march we were o'clock. Our route being over a con were informed by an Osage woman continually passing through large tinued series of hills and hollows, we that two of the Indians were conspir herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and were until eight at night before we ing to desert us in the night and steal I have no doubt but one hunter could arrived at a small dry branch. It was some of our horses, one of whom was support 200 men. I prevented the nearly ten o'clock before we found her husband. We engaged her as our men shooting at the game, not any water. Commenced raining a lit spy. Thus were we obliged to keep merely because of the seareity of am tle before day. Distance 25 miles. ourselves on our guard against our munition, but, as I conceived, the 19th September, Friday.-It having own companions and - fellow laws of morality forbid it also. En commenced raining early, we se travellers, men of a nation highly fa camped at sun-set on the main cured our baggage and pitched our vored by the United. States, but branch of White river hitherto called tents. The rain continued without whom I believe to be a faithless set of Grand river. Killed one buffalo and any intermission the whole day, dur poltrons, incapable of a great and one cabrie. Distance 21 miles. ing which we employed ourselves in generous action. Among them, in deed, there may be some exceptions. 15th September, Monday.-Marched reading the Bible, Pope's Essays, at seven o'clock passed a very large and in pricking on our arms with In In the evening, finding that the Kans encampment, evacuated, dia ink some characters, which will two Indians above mentioned had which had been occupied last sum frequently bring to mind our forlorn made all preparations to depart, I mer. Proceeded on to the dividing and dreary situation, as well as the sent for one of them, who owned a ridge, between the waters of the happiest days of our life. In the rear horse and received a gun and other of our encampment was a hill, on property for his hire, and told him, "I August 2003 Wagon Tracks 29 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 29 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 knew his plans, and that if he was boats and load the wagons for the End of the Trail disposed to desert, I should take care trip to New Mexico. Independence is President Pam Najdowski to retain his horse; that as for him· located two miles south of Wayne 1810 Poseo de La Conquistadora self, he might leave me ifhe pleased, City Landing, and it grew rapidly be Santa Fe NM 87501 as I only wanted men with us." He re cause ofthe trails. (505) 982-1172 plied, "that he was a man, that he al In January 1983 the Sugar Creek 30 Wagon Trachs August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 30 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 17, Issue 4 (August, 2003) and mailing addres:, is PO Box 928, ness enterprises in both the Liberty Cottonwood Crossing Las Vegas NM 8770l. and St. Louis areas. Dougherty built President Gil Michel You are welcome to join us! a "commodious" house before build 605 Park Place ing the mansion he named Multno Wet/Dry Routes Newton KS 67114 mah after the falls on the Columbia (620) 284-0313 President Rusti Gardner River in Oregon country. With leadership by President Gil 801 Vernon Dr Larned KS 67550 The proposed alignment of the Michel, the chapter has made prog (620) 285-3433 new Shoal Creek Parkway would cut ress on the auto tour route in Marion August 2003 Wagon Tracks 31 Published by UNM Digital Repository, 2003 31 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 17 [2003], Iss. 4, Art. 1 <\'=~=~~~~~~~~~=.~ 1~_....;N:.;;E:.:W~SF;.;.T.;.;A.;.;M;,;,;E;;;.;M_B_E_Rs__1 Symposium 2003 ~ This list includes new member Independence/Kansas City MO ~ ships received since the .last .iss.ue. '}I J[igfiway (]3etween :Nations" Those received after thIS prmtmg will appear in ~he ne~t i~sue. Ift~ere •• ,-,"J~ ~lOn, - I' is an error m thIS mforma \~ please send corrections to the edItor. , --~ ,-~~ We thank you for your support. .\US~OUUI M:I n:w: OUTl'l1 T!I(~ BUSINESS/INSTITUTIONAL september 25,26,27,28 Bel Air Motel, 2000 E Wyatt Earp, Join us for a tour of Lexington, Missouri Dodge City KS 67801 And the Santa Fe Trail west of Independence Days Inn/Super 8, MHS Hospitality .. Group, 6101 E 87th St, Kansas GPS Chair - John Schumacher City MO 64138 Dodge City Convention & Visitor Bu Sept. 21, 2003: Corazon C~apter reau, 400 W Wyatt Earp, Dodge IL.._-..:T:.:.:.R~A;.:,IL..,:;C;,;.A,;,;;,L;;,;,EN..;,;D.A_R I field trip to Rayado; meet at Kit Car City KS 67801 son Museum in Rayado at 1:00 p.m. Everyone is invited to send no Econo Lodge/Inn Pancake Hou~e, Sept. 24, 2003: SFTA board meet tices for this section; provide loca 1610 W Wyatt Earp, Dodge CIty ing, Kansas City, MO. tion, date, time, and activity. This is KS 67801 a quarterly. The next issue s~ould Sept. 25-28, 2003: SFTA Sympo Edwards Economic Development appear in November, so send mfor sium, Kansas City, MO. Corp., PO Box 161, Kinsley KS mation for December and later to ar Oct. 19, 2003: Corazon Chapter fi~ld 67547 rive by October 20, 2003. Thank you. trip to Round Mound; meet at Pomt First National Bank of Las Animas, Dates of additional events may be of Rocks Ranch at 10:00 a.m. 535 Bent Ave, Las Animas CO found in chapter reports. Nov. 16, 2003: Corazon Chapter 81054 Aug. 17, 2003: Corazon Chapter meeting at St. James Hotel in Ci La Fonda Hotel, 100 E San Francisco field trip to see Trail ruts, hosted by marron, NM, 11:00 a.m. St, Santa Fe NM 87501 Daniels Family; meet at 10:00 a.m. Plaza Hotel, Wid Slick, 230 Plaza, at the Kruse'N Cafe, Wagon Mound. FROM THE EDITOR Las Vegas NM 87701 Sept. 7, 2003: KSDAR rededication The offices for Wagon Trachs and FAMILY MEMBERSHIPS of Madonna statue, Council Grove, the Last Chance Store will be closed KS. until August 20, 2003. The ~ema.nd Carl & Beatrice Putman, 11096 for membership rosters at thIS pomt Sept. 11-12, 2003: Fort Riley, ~S, Havendale Ave, Sparta WI 54656 (two so far) certainly c0l!fir~s ~he special program commemoratmg board's decision to stop distrIbutmg INDIVIDUAL MEMBERSHIPS 150th anniversary of the post. rosters to the entire membership. Jean Brittingham, PO Box 199, An Sept. 13-0ct. 3, 2003: Santa Fe We hope to see you at the sympo ton Chico NM 87711 Trail Bike Trek. sium in September. Visit the Last James Howk, 9849 Shepherds Dr, Sept. 20, 2003: El Camino Real A~ Kansas City MO 64131 Chance Store booth at the book ex sociation (CARTA) first membershIp hibit. Jimmie Mitchell, 1408 Meadow meeting at Ranchers Steakhouse, Happy Trails! Lan e, Midlothian TX 76065 , Socorro NM, 1:00-5:00 p.m. -Leo E. Oliva Santa Fe Trail Association .---. • • NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION I~'-' • ~~,J PO Box 31 U.S. POSTAGE Woodston, KS 67675 v ~rT!v PAID PERMIT NO. 2 Change Service Requested . WOODSTON KS 67675 32 Wagon Tracks August 2003 https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol17/iss4/1 32