WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Authorities at Last Awaken to the Importance Ofsensitive Development

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN authorities at last awaken to the importance ofsensitive development. totheimportance authorities atlastawaken Therethe very beautifulKaleköy. are signstoothatthingsare a-changing astheregion’s the surf onboarda the surf as itisfortheconcrete oldtown. jungleengulfingitsonce-charming forthestunningbeautyofitsnaturalharbour to shimmerthrough.Marmarisisasshocking half-dozen cheesesatthelocalmarket. owner,offtosellher chivviedonbyitsheadscarfed around acornertrotsduskydonkey place. Justastep youtumblingbacktotheTurkey inlandwilltake ofthepre-’70s. From documented, muchtodiscover itdoesn’ttake whatdrew thedevelopers here inthefirst While thedevelopment –ofTurkey’s –some wouldsaydestruction Western littoraliswell Mediterranean Western 332 © LonelyPlanetPublications quaint coastaltownsstillclinging totheirorigin Kekova, Ka al charm,suchasKalkan, a Lyciantombortremendous Corinthiantemple. Andbetweenthetwoextremes liesome a beachinOlymposorPatara willsuddenlysendyoubackthousandsofyearsaspass Ölüdeniz’s lovely lagoon,scubadive atKa andadventure.Mecca foractivities YoucanwalkthebeautifulLycianWay,paraglideover has itsupside,orsosomewouldseeit.The region hasrecently becomesomethingofa Named the‘Turquoise through Coast’byearlyvisitors,youcanseewhywhenskimming And even amidthehighways, high-risesanddiscos,thebeautyofplacestillmanages Best ofallistheregion’s seamlessmixofhistoryandholiday.Astrollatmidnightalong

HIGHLIGHTS

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separate women’sareaseparate too. in 1344,hasmixed there’s bathing,though a Caddesi 1;bath/massage€5/14; 51; mains€0.85-1.65; professionally run. tek’s abitcharacterless, and it’scomfortable tables outside.tables köfte for itsdeliciouspides(€1.40to€1.95)and this newplacehasbecomeafavourite locally change (one there. leave Buses half-hour every may have totake abus toMarmaris first and Mediterranean coasteastof Marmaris, you destinations inthe region. Forpointsalong the Mu Getting There&Away ferent Mu dif- classical Turkishmusic.Thechef serves that resonates withbirdsongor thestrainsof shadeddelightful terrace besideasmallpool a drinkorbite toeat.Atthebackthere’s a year-old thiscaféisgreat Ottomanhouse, for €2.75, mains€2-3.50,beer€2.20; municipality. backgammon here. Pricesare kept lowbythe it’s popularwiththelocalswhoread orplay breakfast orcoffee. Peaceful andtranquil, year-old isalovely house placetocomefor the municipalityafter restoration, this200- coffee €0.28; % h packed. rock-bottom prices,thisplaceispermanently ofcious selection traditionalMu pick-and-point counter adeli- containing Bulvar have balconies. has simplebutcleanandspaciousrooms;four Kur 1;d€17) Sokak Tuncer Otel Sleeping &Eating community centre. İ facesthebeautiful The museum traditionalartsandcrafts. room containing skender AlperKültürMerkezi skender Mu Mu Doyum 98 Petek Hotel Sanat Evi The 9am-11pm) 212 8668; ğ ş (grilledmeatballs,€2.50).Ithasafew ı la’s busy otogar runs services toallmajor la’s busyotogarruns services unlu Cami (followthesigns), thehotel unlu Cami ğ 27;s/d€25/45) ğ la Lokantas la BelediyesiKültürEvi Vak ğ h ı

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Canyoning andpaint-balling isalsopossible.Canyoning bikes for rent, as welltuitionandcourses. boatsandmountain pedalos,sailing canoes, value. as asmall gardenwithapretty pool. It’sgreat rooms,aswell has immaculate andpleasant a Sakic Susam Otel Sleeping &Eating .gokovaruzgar.com) make anicedaytripforaround€15. runs tours of beaches alongthegulf,which centre of town.Thelocalboatcooperative roofs andintricate woodenbalconies. are attractive two-storey withpantile houses grey beach besideariver sand mouth.There thisvillagemountains, descendstoalittle beautiful baynearby.Backed by pine-clad to Akyaka, often called Gökova after the into afertile valley. the Gulfof Gökova. Itthenswitchbacks down Pass; 670m)toreveal breathtaking viewsof Mu About 30kmnorthof Marmaris theroadfrom % GÖKOVA (AKYAKA) (oneanhourinlowseason). half-hour every hour, 55km),toBodrum(€6.10,2½hours) toMarmarishour inlowseason) (€2.75,one 334 GREECE To Mykonos WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Ycln Hotel Yücelen Every Saturdaythere isabusy At the base ofAt thebase thehill,signspointway (EGE DENÎZÎ) AEGEAN SEA ) 0252 ğ Leros Kalymnos ı On the same roadasthe On thesame GREECE Caddesi;s/dhighseason €25/31,lowseason€17/25; la comesover (Sakar theSakarGeçidi ETR EIERNA • Gkv Ayk) ••Gökova(Akyaka) WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Nisyros Gümüšlük Köyü ( % Turgutreis Kos Yalîkavak offers windsurfers seakayaks, 243 5863; www.mepartours.com; Lütfiye 243 5863;www.mepartours.com;

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Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 10.30am andreturn ataround5pmto5.30pm. from May (somefromApril)toOctober. person), tonegotiate. butyou’llneed Yachts sail boat (uptofourpeople–around€24€28per and islands.Theycostaround€175to€200per (p340), offer daytours of Marmaris itsbeaches Bay, Rhodes to boats yachts, cheek-by-jowl alongthewaterfront, daily the Besides BOAT TRIPS from somehotels andthetouristoffice. Tansa fromoutsidethe frequent free shuttle service the 2km fromthetowncentre. Goafter 6pmwhen about DatçaCaddesi justoff ment hospital h 1;bath&scrub€14,withmassage €19.50; 5375; 136Sokak The cleanandmodern HAMAM to sible bydolmu statue. Thebeach atGünlücekPark isalsoacces- Yeni southeastof KordonCaddesi theAtatürk SLEEPING Museum...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION neyuhHse...... C2 D2 Interyouth Hostel...... Hotel Begonya...... A2 Bariš Motel...... A2 Ayçe Otel...... C3 Marmaris Castle& Deep BlueDiveCenter...... C3 Tourist Office...... C3 Post Office(PTT)...... B2 Money ExchangeOffices...... A3 D3 Internet C@fe...... CED InternetC@fé...... Boats usuallyleave 9.30amand between İ skipper, cleaningup at theendofvoyageandsooncan bumpupthepriceeven more.skipper, journeys,employinga charges to pay€2700.Extra €2000. Inhighsummer expect forone-way yourself. Tohire abareboat sleepingsixto11passengersforoneweekinspringcosts around €350 perday,withpricesrisingto€600 inAugust. tocostaround thewholeboatislikely InMay,chartering andcook. yacht) complete withskipper companies. If you can get a party ofupto16peopletogether, youcanhirecompanies. a Ifyoucangetaparty aboat,MarmarisandFethiyeIf youwanttocharter are goodplacestoaskaroundtheyachting SAIL YOUROWNGÜLET text, p357 . 8.30am-10pm May-Oct) çmeler cost €0.85, to Turunç €2.75. çmeler cost€0.85,toTurunç€2.75. hamam The boxed text, p356 , describesother Experienced sailorscanoptforabareboat where charter youdothecrewing (andcooking) ş Shopping andback,aswell Centre isemptyof tourgroups.There’s a ş fromoutsideTansa liesbehindthegovern- Armutalan Hamam 11 10 7 9 8 6 5 4 3 2 1 C3 aiaHtl...... C3 Marina Hotel...... aoaaBr...... C3 Panorama Bar...... DRINKING B3 C3 Özsüt...... C2 Ney Restaurant...... C2 Meyrem Ana...... D2 Liman Restaurant...... C3 Îdil MantîlEvi...... B2 Fellini...... Doyum...... Patisserie...... (see14) Café Yavuz EATING A3 A2 Royal MarisOtel...... Özcan Pension...... WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Marmaris WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN ş . Dolmu ( %

gület 417 ş es es cruisesand,foracautionary tale,seetheboxed side thecovered bazaar(signposted upthe card €5.60/7,dwithoutbathroom€14; 45;dmorswithoutbathroomwith/withoutISIC 42 Sokak Hostel Interyouth Sleeping master andlunch. €35 includingtwodives, allequipment,adive- over twotofourdays.Dayexcursions cost charges €280for a PADI OpenWater course Center Blue Dive and courses fromApriltoOctober. The centres offerSeveral scuba diving excursions DIVING Knidos, westof Marmaris. longer, more boattripstoDatçaand serious Dalyan andKaunos. Youcanalsocharter and three-day trips(€555)popularlygoto and Amos, Turunç,Green Sea Aquarium, Phosphoros Cave, Kumlubuku, and, ifso,what’sonthemenu. itscostandwhetherlunch isincluded goes, signingup,checkBefore where theexcursion Bay excursions usuallyvisitParadiseBay Island, Two-day trips(around€385fortheboat) 12 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 ei amrsTae ahig. C3 B3 Yešil MarmarisTravel&Yachting... B3 Water TaxitoÎçmeler...... A3 Water TaxitoTurunç...... C3 Turkish Airlines...... B2 Taxi Stand...... A3 Siteler DolmušStop...... B2 Marmaris Taxi...... B2 Îçmeler DolmušStop...... Bus CompanyTicketOffices...... TRANSPORT D2 C3 Open AirCinema...... D2 Greenhouse...... D2 Crazy Daisy...... D2 Back Street...... Areena...... ENTERTAINMENT (

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN sold here. gület andfor per day),andboattickets toRhodes on therooftop. Scooters canbehired (€17 there’s June toSeptember afree night pasta small bookshop andbookexchange. From café, Italsohasalaundryservice, tained. arerather Spartan, spotlessandwellmain- smallishandinformation. Rooms,though helpful Halit who’salsoagreat sourceof travel runbythestairs), thishostel isefficiently 338 also forthediver memorialstatue inMarmaris. of theirdivingdays. thoughnonespeakEnglish.Look out Youcanasktomeet themifyoulike, The 1970ssawthefinaldemiseof Marmaris’divers, butsomeare stillalive andstillfull of tales them too–orabouttheirfamiliesand thelossestheyendured.’ money. Sometimesyou’dseethembuilding quite bighouses. There were manyfolksongsabout way,andspent inacertain way,walked though theagentsdid)andtheydressed inacertain way heroic. They were definitely richer thantherest ofus(thoughIdon’tthinkany diedrich– end myfatherwentbankrupt. a groceryshopinMarmariswhere theyusedtocome. Buttheynever paidtheirbillsandinthe dives, Iremember manydivers woulddrink. thembuyinglotsofbottlesrak board ontheboat.Alsohowdeephedared togoandhowlonghedared todive for. After the huge prestige intheamountofspongesadiver upona collected –hisdailytallywaschalked not justbetweenthedifferent boatcrews butalsobetweenthedivers themselves. There was I hadaneighbourwhowascrippled. who hadbeeninjured ordied.Usuallytheywere paralysed–sometimesfromthewaistdown. Marmaris wentintomourning. Itwouldbethetalkoftownforweeks. Allofusboyshad uncles Marmaris waitingfortheirhusbandsorfatherstoreturn. Whenadiver didn’tcome home,allof down, butusuallyitwasthedivers themselves thatgot themselves intotrouble. every year. Maybetheairpipewouldgetcaughtinapropeller ortheairpumpwouldbreak water untilhebegantorespond again. responding tothepilotstring,they’dhaulhimupashallowerdepthandleave himinthe Sometimes theywentasdeep50mor60mmore! Ifadiver lostconsciousnessorstopped too deep,thecaptainwouldpullonpilotstringattachedtotheirleadcasket. astheycould.Whentheirdivemany spongesintheirbaskets timewasuportheybegantogo divers toandfromtheirfishing. boatthatpumpedairdirectly the tothemastheydived,a working andarowingboattaking maybe 600km. alongthereefmonths. fromMarmaristoAntalyaandaroundBodrumtoo,theycovered Working would saygoodbyetotheirfamiliesandleave togodiving. Wedidn’tseethemagainforsix that every year,inearlyAprilorMaywhentheseaswere calm,mostofthemenvillage ‘Before tourismcame,ourmainsourceofincomeinMarmariswasspongediving. Iremember THE SPONGEDIVERSOFMARMARIS ETR EIERNA • Mrai ••Marmaris WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN With thanks toErolUysal,local guide andhistorian,for agreeing inMarmaris. to beinterviewed ‘We allknewthatitwasahardjoband Iguesswethoughtthattheywere brave andina ‘But itwasn’tjustforthemoneythattheytooktheserisks. There wasterrible competition ‘I remember allthewomenandchildren theireyesonthe Straitsof atthequaysidekeeping ‘Yes, happen anddivers seriousaccidentsdidunfortunately were injured – –oreven killed manydivers‘But becausetheywere wentwellbeyondtheirsafety paidbythekilo, limits. ‘When theydived, as theywouldwalkalongtheseabedatdepthsof35mor40m,collecting ‘Each divingteam basicallyhadthree boats,amotherboatwhere thedivers sleptandate, cruises (see theboxed (see cruises text, p356 ) are have balconies. choice.family feel, thisisapleasant Rooms clean andquite spaciousroomsanditsfirm a pleasant gardenterrace.a pleasant place. Afew roomshave balconiesandthere’s pension’s nevertheless acleanandgood-value rather elderly,tired andunwelcoming,this season from€11/17,low€5.50/14) 10;s/d€17/22; 66 Sokak Özcan Pension Bari ş Motel

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( % 413 0652; [email protected]; 413 0652;[email protected]; h 412 7761; 66 Sokak 17;s/dhigh 412 7761;66Sokak high seasononly) ı . Myfatherhad lonelyplanet.com Appearing Withits this isatwo-orthree-star hotel atone-star friendly, family-runandwithgoodfacilities, rooms set aroundashadedrooms set courtyard,this season; .com; AtatürkCaddesi34;s€22-50,d€39-83dependingon 101; dhigh/lowseason€34/17; a roof terrace that’sdesignedtoresemble a €17-20, d€22-28dependingonseason; prices. With comfortable roomswithbalcon- prices. Withcomfortable lonelyplanet.com dishes costs €4.45). for veggies too(a large mixed plate of many lent reputation locally andisagoodchoice vineleaves.kitchen stuffing It hasanexcel- themother andaunthardatworkinthe see youcan home cooking.Afirmfamilyaffair, terrific traditional stated, thisplaceserves 2.25 revellers.night St), where cater stalls totheravenous late- Turkish restaurants, and along39Sokak(Bar around thecastlewhere there’s ahostof small post officeandthemosque,oldtownarea and cheerful, trythebazaar area the between larly onthewaterfront. Forsomethingcheap ask aboutpricesbefore ordering,particu- If you’re planingafeast of fish,besure to RESTAURANTS Eating duringtheday. do andsnatch asiesta only, astheownerfreely admits!Doasthey in themiddleof St,it’sforparty-goers Bar slap-bangplace isbeguilinglypeaceful.Butset boat-spotters.serial and castle. There’s afixed even telescope for wonderful panoramicviewsover themarina claims isthe‘bestterrace inMarmaris’ with comfy. Thebiggest booniswhatthehotel and doiliesinthebathroom,are homelyand The rooms,canary-yellowwithfrillycurtains Don’t beputoff bythecastle-cut-outentrance. hotel.com; BarbarosCaddesi39;s€28,d€40-44; are stunning. from someroomsandtheroof terrace and 50have outlooks.Theviews direct sea and afitnesscentre. Allroomshave balconies include twopools,aprivate beach, a ship’s deck),thishotel isgreat value. Facilities terrace, it’sterrific value. roofies, amedium-sizedpoolandpleasant Ayçe Otel Ayçe Otel Marina Hotel Hotel Marina Meryem Ana Meryem Begonya Hotel Otel Royal Maris h as 8am-11pm) ( % ) Comfortable andstylishComfortable (with

( % 412 3136; fax 412 3705; 64 Sokak 11;s 412 3136;fax3705;64Sokak ( WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Marmaris WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN

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412 7855; 35 Sokak 62;mains€1.40- 412 7855;35Sokak ( % 412 0010;www.marmarismarina 412 4095; fax 412 1518; 39 Sokak 412 4095;fax1518;39Sokak 412 8383;www.royalmarisotel a ) With seven cosy Withseven as ) Central, Central, h hamam Apr-Oct) Apr-Oct)

cated in Bar St,thisisagreatcated inBar placeifyouget 2.75, mains€5.50-10; make agreat snack. available. The interior. Veggie dishes (€3.35to€6.65)are or theirnameson thewoodenpanelsof the atmospheric place. Guestsleave little messages around atraditionaloven, and it’sadelightful Withsimple woodentables the night-nibbles. (€1.10 to€2.20) anarrayof dishes veggie tasty and alsoserves it’s agoodplaceforanearlybreakfast (€2.20), tive locals.Clean,friendlyandalwaysopen, Perhaps that’swhyit’s packed withapprecia- prices, theDoyumisall-too-rare inMarmaris. hr) for more. named Trythedelightfully qualitythatwillhaveand high youmoaning ever-popular chain offers theusualfreshness place totuckintoaTurkish pudortwo. This thisistheperfect ontheseafront, set tables scoop €0.70,puddings€1.95-2.20; four pieces),madedaily. particularly knownforitsbaklava ing arrayof thisplaceis Turkish tantalisers, to 1.30amhighseason) ice cream perscoop€0.85, YavuzCafé Patisserie CAFÉS &QUICKEATS the delicious homecookingatpleasingprices.Try charming Birgül, ownerandcook,whooffers andwindchimes, it’srunbythe with seashells in a250-year-old Greek Decorated house. steps restaurant isthistinybutdelightful set mains €5-11) (€5 to€9). thin-crust pizzas(€7to€9)andalsohaspasta tively waterfront restaurant set great does locals andvisitors intheknow,thisattrac- h €19 for500g)asumptuousspeciality. (€4) isfamous,andthe not thecheapest of places.Butthefishsoup €8), thislively restaurant insidethebazaaris tution andwellknownforitsmezes(€2.50to h (Noah’s pudding). Doyum Ney Restaurant Liman Restaurant İ Özsüt Fellini Serving fresh homecookingatfabulous Serving dil Mant 8.30am-1am) 9am-midnight) mant

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413 9771; 39 Sokak 140;meze2.20- 413 9771;39Sokak % 4pm-4am) 412 0217; 26 Sokak 24;meze€2.20, 412 0217;26Sokak ( h % 412 6876;AtatürkCaddesi34/A; (crêpes,€2.75 to€4.45) bu 6.30am-9.30pm lowseason, 412 6336; 40 Sokak 38; 412 6336;40Sokak h ğ Conveniently lo- lama 9am-midnight) (steamed fish,

(€1.65 for ı 17; With a 339 h ş ure

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 39 Sokak; beer€3.90) 39 Sokak; Greece return/open (one way/same-day re- Townin dailyto Rhodes sail Catamarans BOAT on flights. onthewaterfront.statue See p351 forinfo about400mwestofhas anoffice theAtatürk (€14) fromthere. and take ashortbutquite expensive ride taxi to Dalaman(€3.90)fromMarmaris otogar, take oneofOtherwise, Marmaris Coop’sbuses 3½ hours before each Turkish Airlinesflight. inMarmaris,Airlines office departingabout (€3) fortheirpassengers fromtheTurkish runs anairportbus(knownastheHava 120km eastof Marmaris. Turkish Airlines The region’s principal airportisatDalaman, AIR Getting There&Away it inthefuture. butthereit wasclosed, were planstoreopen are screened Atthetimeof atsunset. writing All movies are English-language releases and €3.85; (tickets Marina,sel there isalsoan signs fromleftof andcastle. themuseum best viewsinMarmaris. Tofindit,followthe justifies thebar’sname–itprobably boaststhe club. Itsterrace, notlarge, though more than is more of apermanentfixture andlessof a beer €2.75; well asthecavernous terraces (goodfordancingon),as its raised 121; 4048; 39Sokak three inthetrendy stakes is number- Ranking lasers. floor andhigh-quality €4.50) second, close popular shows. aswelldanceandlaser night spirits €4.40andthere are foampartiesevery cost€3.90, open from7pmto4amdaily.Beers in summer. has astringof placesthatare wildlypopular Sokak, alsoknownasHac St’(39 Turkish coast.Theaptlynamed‘Bar Marmaris’ nightlife rivalsanythingonthe Drinking &Entertainment 340 The ‘in’whenwevisitedBars includedtheever- thefollowingbars otherwise, Unless stated Turkish Airlines Turkish At theeastern endof St,neartheNet- Bar , with its bar elevated above, withitsbarelevated alarge dance ETR EIERNA • Mrai ••Marmaris WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Panorama Bar h Back Street h 9am-midnight mid-Apr–Oct) Areena Jun-Sep) . h

( %

( ( %

% 3pm-4am May–mid-Sep)

( 412 3751;AtatürkCaddesi26-B) behind theKeyif Bar. % 412 4048; 39 Sokak 93) 412 4048;39Sokak Greenhouse 413 4835;Hac 412 2906; 39 Sokak 54;beer 412 2906;39Sokak ı Mustafa Sokak) Mustafa Crazy Daisy open-air cinema , off 30Sokak, ı

( İ % mam Soka 412 8792; (

% with and a ş bus; ğ 412 ı 40; vide a free pick-up service fromhotels inthe vide afree pick-upservice hour before departure. Some agencies pro- tobeattheferryport. Youneed dockone (more ifyouhave acar)andbringyourpass- low season) 13; ing agency including Greek cargo boats. November tomid-April, andthere are no for aperiodof twoorthree days. either return inRhodes dayorstay thesame ing onweather(departures usually9am).They depend- to three inlowseason, timesaweek hours; departures usually12.30pm),andtwo two pricesasthecatamarans; (same to Rhodes season inhigh sengers) onceaweek alsosail return/opensame-day return. cost€150/180/180foraone-way/ 4.30pm. Cars at 8amdaily,returning fromMarmaris at return/openway/same-day return €57/57/75) toMarmaris periodfromRhodes (one same return/open-returnsame-day ticket. cost€150/180/250foraone-way/ Cars at4.30pm. at 9am.Theyreturn fromRhodes utes) from 15Aprilto1November, leaving 50min- turn €42/42/73includingporttax, every hour in high season and every 1½hours and every season hourinhigh every (€15, sixhours,Antalya 590km)twiceaday. and to three hours, half-hour, 170km) every hours, hour, toFethiye 320km)every (€5.55, 805km) fourtimesaday,to runto round, buses threeson, every Allyear hours inlowseason. onetotwohours165km) every sea- inhigh tre of town.Dolmu Marmaris’ otogarlies3kmnorthof thecen- BUS Customs inRhodes. from theimmigrationauthoritiesinfrontof tobuyanewTurkish visa you’ll stillneed ifyou’ve (even foradaytrip) justbeen Rhodes town centre. Note thatwhenyou return from ping Centre. have ticket aroundtheTansa offices Buscompanies few season. minutes inhigh Egemenlikotogar alongUlusal Bulvar Book tickets atleastonedayinadvance For Datça (€3.90,1¾hours) dolmu runtoBodrum(€6.70,3½hours, Buses Tickets fromanytravel canbebought Turkish cargo boats(carryingupto78pas- duringtheGreek alsosail catamarans Note donotoperate thatcatamarans from h ( % 7am-midnight Mon-Sathighseason,8.30am-6.30pm 412 2290; www.yesilmarmaris.com; BarbadosCaddesi 412 2290;www.yesilmarmaris.com; . Ye ş ş İ il Marmaris Travel &Yacht- Travel il Marmaris es runtoandfromthe stanbul (€25,13hours,stanbul İ zmir (€10.65,4¼ lonelyplanet.com ş ş Shop- ı es run every in low season. ForKöyce in lowseason. Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com hiring ascooter, avoyage although by boat is to thetip of the Re pensions where youcanlaze fordays. andsomeexcellent,well-priced the distance, ged andislands shimmering in mountains bluebays,rug- beautiful coastline,withdeep of Lorymaatitstip. Peninsula, withtheruinsof the ancientcity branch isknownasthe orDaraçya Hisarönü the Re ancient timesasthePeraea, itisnow called Greek Knownin islandsof KosandRhodes. 100km intotheAegean the between Sea stretches westfromMarmaris forabout fingerA narrow,mountainous of land RE hour). every 30 minutes) andTurunç(€5.55,50minutes, to statue andtheAtatürk thetouristoffice between run fromvariouspointsonthewater front (€3.40). hillsidetothecovea steep 40minutes every make thetripover anddown themountains mosphere thantheMarmaris scene. Dolmu with British amoretourists seeking relaxed at- from massive overdevelopment. Itispopular ated positionhasgiven itsomeprotection clean beach. better plannedandhasarelativelyhas been ita much classierplace,notleastbecause a beach suburbof Marmaris. itfeels However, west andsoutharoundthebay,isnowmerely fishingvillage,Once aseparate AROUND MARMAR (€1.70, 11km). (€0.90, 6km),andtheorange onesto Uzunyal different routes: thegreen dolmu they have colour-coded been todenote their Egemenlik onUlusal Centre Bulvar Frequent dolmu Getting Around ginning andendingattheTansa 1½ hours) andtake thedolmu the Fethiye busandchange (€3.40, atOrtaca utes) take theFethiye bus.ForDalyan,take The peninsulashave someof Turkey’s most From May totheendof October, water taxis A roadtwistsitsway fromMarmaris west Turunç Ş AD ş adiye or Datça Peninsula; itssouthern İ isthenext beach resort, butitsisol- ı YE &HISARÖNÜPENINSULAS (€0.55,3km)andTurban-Siteler İ çmeler (€4.15,30minutes, every ş es runaroundthebay,be- ş adiye Peninsula, perfect for İ S ğ ı z (€2.80,40min- ş . İ WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundMarmaris WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN çmeler ş Shopping ş ı . Recently, es goto İ çmeler , 8km ş es www.beyazguvercin.com; Selimye Köyu;s€34-56, d€45-75 www.beyazguvercin.com; Selimye the hotel hasapeaceful locationamid large the endof thebay3km fromthetown centre, depending onseason; views. and sea pool;some havearound apleasant balconies signed hotel bythebeach. There are 35rooms theYakanaBegovina, isa modern,wellde- Köyu;s/d€22/44; .com; Selimye lers withchildren. 50m fromthewater. Agoodchoice fortravel- bungalows are aroundagardenlessthan set attractive these stone Sardunya Restaurant, 45 dependingonseason; Yakana, andhas amedium-sizedpool. Itliesaround100meastof the and seafront. a large zigzagterrace overlooking thecafé share ontheupperlevel comfortable. Those arranged like bows,roomsare spotless and lurid Mediterranean colours towels andtwee s/d €20/42; shingle beach andisexcellentvalue. have kitchenettes. Itliesjustmetres fromthe large balconies).Allhave fridges andafew less roomswithdirect views(somewith sea shoemaker, thishotel offers good-sized,spot- €11/17, highseason€14/28) Begovina Hotel SLEEPING &EATING built besidethebeach here. by bitsof ancientruin.Somehotels have been on itsownlovely bayfacinganislettopped atraditionalboat-builders’Selimiye, village low theBozburunroadtoreach thevillage of tion withroadstoBay About 9kmsouthof Orhaniyeisanintersec- % Selimiye Simi (Symi). andtheneighbouring Greek island Rhodes of Datça. Here there are ferry connectionsto of thegreat sculptorPraxiteles) 35kmwest hamlet andruinsof Knidos(theancientcity town about60kmwestof Marmaris) andthe town 56kmfromMarmaris), Datça(aresort visitors cometoexplore Bozburun(afishing ing insomeof itshundreds of coves, secluded the peninsula’spine-cladcoastsandanchor- preferable. Aside fromthejoyof near sailing Yakana BeachHotel Yakana Beyaz Güverc Sardunya Bungalows Hydas Otel 0252 h

( Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; % (

% ı n Motel pa 446 4297; fax 446 4298; Selimiye Köyu; 446 4297;fax4298;Selimiye 446 4292;fax4181;s/dlowseason s a

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( Perched onahillsideat (White Pigeon; ) % ı ) ) r andBozburun. Fol- Despite therather Nestled behindthe 446 4003;s€20-26,d€33- as 446 4360;www.yakana ) East of the East % 446 4274;

341 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING from thesea. about 100mfromthetowncentre and40m Aurora, thisisanew,family-runrestaurant Köyu; speciality; themezesare mouthwatering too. Fish isits ontheseafront. race aswelltables 200-year-old withashaded stonehouse ter- locally, theAuroraisvery prettily ina set 22; €14). casserole, famous. Tryalsothedelicious Its infishandseafood. are anditspecialises used bettering even food. Localorganic products It’s notquite aspretty astheAurorabutserv- restaurant aboard a areand sailing possibleandthere’s afloating some have of Windsurfing glimpses thesea. sq m.Thechalet-style roomsare simplebut and attractive gardensthatstretch over 6500 342 every two hours.every ForBozburun, youcanhop Falcon &Pansiyon Restaurant Restaurant Aurora Sardunya Restaurant pleasant restaurants withterraces overlooking thevalley.After Bay relatively level onthewayto much drier,andthelandfallssteeply awayintoinaccessible coves. Fromtiny Sö and in Marmaris before setting out. appropriate clothingisadvisabletoprotect againstroadrashifyou comeoff. one ofthehighest road trafficaccidentrates intheworld;it’snecessarytowear ahelmet,and The roadsare steep andwinding,sospeedishardlyanasset.JustbearinmindthatTurkey has and photostops. Manyplacesin Marmarisrent scooters bytheday,mostforaround€14to €17. beforebays ofSelimiyeandHisarönü, rejoining themainDatça–Marmaris road. village of before yougetthere. The roadnarrowsandgetssteeper, slowlywinding downtotheinland winding ascenttowards Turunç. Take theunpaved road totherightthroughpineforest theright-handbranches; take road,whichleadsaroundthebackoftownandbegins asteep, and comingbackonthemainroad. go viathemainroadtoBozburun butit’s more funtodoaloop,headingdownonvillageroads inland fromTurunç give waytosteep bare rockyhillsidesasyouapproachBozburun. Youcan ness ofMarmaris. The mountainous, deeplyindented Peninsula Hisarönü placetoescapethemad- istheperfect HISARÖNÜ PENINSULABY SCOOTER h kalamar h ETR EIERNA • Aon amrs ••AroundMarmaris WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN The onlypetrolstations onthepeninsulaare atBozburun andTurunç, soit’sbesttofillup The aboutsixhourswithrests, wholecircuitofthepeninsulaisabout120km,andtakes swims From Bozburun agoodroadleads backalongthewestern sideofthepeninsula,pastidyllic Setting offfromMarmarisheadfor varied landscapes;lushpineforestsIt’s aruggedplacewithremarkably onahighplateau 9am-1am Apr-Oct) İ ş çmeler andrusticBay 9am-midnight) es runtoandfromMarmaris (€2.75) (squid) stuffed orfried(€6.65)are (squid)stuffed Bay ı r .

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Bozburun bu 446 4105; Selimiye 446 4105;Selimiye ğ ulama ı ç ı ; meals€17- İ çmeler alongAtatürk Caddesi. In , whichhasseveral goodcafésforlunch. (fish

İ Pansiyon Yilmaz SLEEPING rounding countryside. are alsomanyinteresting walksinthesur- vessels toexplore thesurroundingbays.There east of thebustof andcharter Atatürk, private from therocksbyprimaryschool south- bluewateryou candipintothestartlingly PTT. Someof theshopsexchange currency. There are afew small,well-runpensionsanda anchor inSömbekiKörfezi (SömbekiBay). theyachties whodrop uptoserve shops set most villagers, someworkinbars though and of Marmaris. Fishing andfarmingstillemploy run isaperfect antidote tothetouristmadness building portsontheMediterranean. Bozbu- village andoneofseaside thebiggest boat- after 12km,youreach Bozburun, asleepy theroadtwistsonwardsuntil, From Selimiye % Bozburun ifthere’s space. Selimiye) through passes on theBozburuntoMarmaris bus(which skele Mahallesi 391;s/d€11/22) Mahallesi skele Bozburun isnotknownforitsbeaches, but 0252 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( % ı r thelandscapebecomes 456 2167;www.yilmazpansion.com; İ çmeler themainroad Thisconvenient and ğ üt theroadis Y bour of love builtstonebyBozburun stoneby Pembe Yanus), thiswell-designedplacehas10 sion.com; Karg .de; r €47-61, 15% extra May–mid-Nov) .de; r€47-61,15%extra rooms have direct viewsandthehotel sea vine-covered terrace metres Six fromthesea. Rooms are simplebutcheerful and there’s a the centre and200mfromthedolmu friendly littlepensionisaround100mfrom lonelyplanet.com 391; meze€1.40, seafoodmeze€3.35, fish€10-12per500g; the seafront. 17 typesof meze)for€8/€10.Grab on atable fixedtwo-course meat/fishmenus (including Gates eatinghere), itoffers somegreat value isty (andproudlybrandishes photosof Bill midnight Apr-Sep) kalamar tava well asexcellentfresh fish.Trythedelicious goodhome-stylecooking as restaurant does €1.65; Restaurant Kandil EATING &DRINKING well astrekking trips. inletsnearby,as trips tothemanydeserted owneroffersaccommodating German kayak ture trees, hibiscusandbougainvillea. The hidden inabeautifulgardenfilledwithma- but well-designedroomsinthree buildings away-from-it-all place. There are 20simple Pansiyon, SabrinasHaus istheultimate get- by boatora20-minute walkfromtheDolphin and fishingare allavailable. people) aroundthebay.Swimming,snorkelling boat excursions (€8perperson, minimumtwo From May Y toSeptember a verdant terrace andsundeckabove thewater. views.There’s sea also balconies andsensational decoratedgood-sized andpleasantly roomswith dinners cost€14. famously. Set-menu views.Fatma,stunning sea themother,cooks furniture, are cleanandhomely.Fourhave blue asifsponged withrugsandrustic-style and herex-modeldaughter. Rooms,lavender pensionrunbyamother is thisdelightful youcanasktobedroppedhere)tion (though ai yunus.net; Karg boasts agoodbreakfast. ı lmaz (sonof theindefatigable Fatma from Fishermen House Restaurant Bozburun Pembe Yunus Sabrinas Haus Sabrinas Dolphin Pansiyon h ) Around 700mfromthedolmu 7.30am-midnight) ı Mahallesi 51;s/d€22/44) Mahallesi ı Mahallesi 37;s/d€14/22; Mahallesi Though itlookshideously tour- Though (friedsquid,€6.40).

(Pink Dolphin;

( WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundMarmaris WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN

( % % ( % ( 456 2045;Plaj;www.sabrinashaus 456 2227; % Thelocalfavourite, this 456 2408;Plaj;www.dolphinpen ( 456 2730; % % 456 6943; İ skele Mahallesi 3;meze Mahallesi skele ı 456 2154;www.pembe lmaz runs daily lmaz runsdaily Onlyreachable Afour-year la- İ skele Mahallesi Mahallesi skele h h ş station. station. 8.30am- Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; ş sta- prices. There are onthewaterfront. tables man, thisplaceoffers fresh fishatunbeatable open-air which featuresan island calledEsenada, an ning outattheend of ashortpeninsula,once ter of smallpensions on theleft,finallyrun- there itcontinuestotheharbour, withaclus- main square withamarket andotogar. From left andrunstoCumhuriyetMeydan smallpensions. hasseveral right fore theroundabout,Buxerolles Sokakonthe roundabout withabigtree. Immediately be- beforefrom thehighway, arrivingat asmall The mainstreet, ORIENTATION Datça’s biggest beach. harbour; andHastane Alt runningwestfromtheendof the Beach), shops on Plaj Marmaris. will take just45minutes toget toDatçafrom maris isbeingimproved sothatinfuture it by theendof 2007,andthe roadfromMar- long. Abigshoppingmallisbilledtoopen to Rhodes. hydrofoililies. Aweekly connectsthetown retirees, aswelltrendy of yachties, English andparticularlyGerman some decentbeaches andaneasy-going mix have floated awayfromthebigresorts. Ithas the littleharbourtownof to Datça seems Connected onlytenuously tothemainland, % Datça year-round.via Selimiye maris (€2.75,50to60minutes) sixtimesaday Bozburun andMar- runbetween Minibuses THERE&AWAYGETTING to pickyouupfromtown. tocheckwith hotel guests.Call andforaboat eat here aslongtherestaurant’s notfilled fish) costs€22.Note thatyoucan seasonal and menu(includingamezebuffet The set of name)hasarefined thesame reputation. in alovely therestaurant setting, (inthehotel traditional Turkish Mediterranean cuisine h Sabrinas Haus Sabrinas Datça hasthree small beaches: Kumluk Datça’s ‘undiscoveredness’ maynotlast After theroundabout 0252 /pop10,570 ı 8am-midnight Apr-7Nov) (Sandy Beach), tucked awaybehind the (SandyBeach), cinema İ skele Ta Caddesi;

( ( h % İ skele Caddesi, runsdownhill skele Caddesi, Jun-Sep) 456 2045; Runbyalocalfisher- İ İ skele Caddesi forks skele Caddesi . stanbullus andfam- stanbullus ı (Hospital Beach), Beach), (Hospital h ş l ı dinner) k Plaj Serving Serving ı (Stony

, the 343 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN in fish, thetheme’ssonauticalhere itlooks €11/20, aptforupto5people€33) sea viewsandmosthavesea balconiestoo. The Allroomshaveall thewaytoRhodes. direct gest boonof thishotel isitsstunningviews house, with agorgeoushouse, terrace under avine- €4.45) Yolu Caddesi 4;köfte prices are unbeatable. The fishhasanexcellent reputation andthe leave theircomments too,butonthewalls! almost like andguests amarinemuseum, meals around€7.50; fresh fishatpleasingprices. owner’s sonisafisherman,which guarantees terrace above elevated thewaterfront. The viewsoverboasts delightful thebayfromits 8); Emek Restaurant EATING of themosqueinvillage centre. themainroadatfoot off branches right Toget here,are followtheroadthat served. outlook. At5pmtea andTurkishpastries outdoorpoolalsoboastsalovelypleasant Karg walk uphillfromTa peaceful locationabout afive- to10-minute is Datça’sbestandsituated inaquietand Turkish couplewholive here, theVillaTokur as 1-bedroom aptforupto4people€61; people). ing justforthepetrol(€11onetothree excursions toKnidosandsurrounds,charg- and spotless.Theowneralsorunsone-daycar very friendly.Roomsare simplebutsunny ment) building,theTunçisfamilyrunand street after ontheright the everywhere!eggs where youcamp;the15resident ducksleave ing groundshaded byeucalyptustrees. Watch andgrassycamp- isthispleasant the seafront bathroom €17/11) €4.45/11,bungalowwith/without Plaji; perperson/campervan Il SLEEPING 344 as views over thepool,bayandvillage. tractively furnishedandhave balconieswith ı ca Camping h Papatya Restaurant &Bar Papatya Restaurant Fevzin Carla Villa Villa Tokur Villa Tunç Pansiyon ı KoyuYolu;s/dhighseason€36/61,low€28/50; ETR EIERNA • Aon amrs ••AroundMarmaris WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 9am-1am Mar-Sep) ) ) BuiltanddesignedbytheGerman- Perched halfwayupthehill,big- ı n Yer (

% ( ( Ontheeastern on bayandright % % ı

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( 712 3400;www.ilicacamping.com; Ta % ( h % 712 8728;www.hoteltokur.com; r€42, % 712 2029;www.villacarladatca.com; 712 9746;Ambarc 7pm-1am) 712 3375;Yat Liman Datça’soldestrestaurant 712 3036;Buxerolles Caddesi;s/d ş Thispretty oldstone l ı k Plaj Down the second Downthesecond Specialisingonly

hükümet h ( % ı . Roomsare at- mid-Apr–mid-Nov; 712 2860;Karg ı Caddesi13/A; ı ; mains€5.50- (govern- ş slik ı

secret recipe. own meat andlambmeatballs)toZekeriya’s amean and alsodoes decent prices.It’sagoodplaceforbreakfast popular locallyforitshome-stylecookingat thisplaceis namesake, thefriendlyZekeriya, Sound DanceClub. pleasant pool-sidebarandtheviewsoverbaywith about 150mfromthebeach.Anewplace,itshares the €5.55, beer€2.50; h a localdraw. h Sun Café Bar Sun Café Sound DanceClub Garden Nurs Gallus Bolero popular atthetimeof writing: bars. Thefollowingwere amongthemost where there are afew smallmusicpubsand Datça’s nightlife centres ontheharbour, DRINKING €3.35) ish/English breakfast €2.75/5.25,köfte karides güveç a mouthwatering menu.Trytheexquisite from themosqueabove themarina. Itoffers covered pergola, isabout 60mupthehill though in high season it almost always does. italmost alwaysdoes. season inhigh though there are sail; fewer people, itdoesn’t than eight Datça toSimi(€50, 70minutes) at9am.If price.same timeasthehydrofoilat thesame andforthe ferryalso aweekly toSimi(onehour)leaving leave onSaturdays,normally at4pm.There’s and Simi(single/return €30/60,15minutes) (single/return €35/70,45minutes)Rhodes toandfromtheotogar.free shuttleservice andKargerolles Caddesi along offices other destinations.Thebuscompanieshave Change here to a dayinlowseason. forbuses five times season, hourinhigh 60km) every Dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING Bar Café Sunries beyond theBolero. €2.25; only nightclubintownandsometimesstageslivemusic. h baked inwine. From May hydrofoils toSeptember to Sofras Zekeriya A 11am-4am Jun-Sep) Next door to Nurs Gallus, it’s the it’sthe doortoNursGallus, Next 11am-4am Jun-Sep) 8am-2am) Everpopular. 9.30am-3am) The owner is a colourful character and character 9.30am-3am) Theownerisacolourful gület h ( % ş es runtoMarmaris (€3.85,1½hours, 10am-3am) Anothernewplaceabout50m sails two to three times a week from two tothree from sails timesaweek 712 9865;Yal Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (Gallus Bar; (Gallus ş h İ ( arapli f skele Caddesi between Bux- between skele Caddesi (admission incl drink €5.55, beer €2.50; €5.55,beer€2.50; (admissionincldrink % ı

( ( 11am-4am Jun-Sep) Onthehill 11am-4am Jun-Sep) % % 712 9518;Yat Liman ı 712 4303; Caddesi16;beer€1.65; % 712 9865; admission incl drink 712 9865;admissionincldrink ı r ‘inegöl köfte ı 712 9465;Yat Limani; beer nda ı Yoluandprovide a İ –shrimps oven- skele Caddesi60;Turk-skele Runbyits ı ; beer€1.65; ’ (mixed fax 7124239;Turgut ÖzalMeydan takes youfromDatçatoKaraköy. mosque, andthere’s afree busshuttle that that share averanda overlooking theyard. less roomswithfridge andalittlekitchenette .com; Yal men (thenameof Karaköy’s harbourabout ferries BodrumandKör- rundailybetween per day). also beorganised (€30/50forone/twodives gület your departure withyourpassport;forthe and Simi,comeat11amontheSaturdayof the hydrofoils, ferries and own littlekitchen. About 350mbeyond the rooms have individualcharacters andtheir lonelyplanet.com h Sofras underavine-clad pergola,With tables cafés intown,all of themrecently opened. son €17/33,highseason€20/39) 9;s/dlowsea- 2178; www.dogapansiyon.com;DatçaMahallesi village (followthesigns), €28/56; ( inagorgeousset walledgarden, places tostay. and quietthere are acoupleof delightful lovingly restored. Ifyou’re of insearch peace mostofstreets andoldstonehouses, them Datça) isapicturesque hamletof cobbled Lying 3kmfromDatça, Eski Datça(Old % Eski Datça more. thepricecandouble. season Inhigh day (€139perday,maximum10people)or muster agroup,youcanhire aboatforone way ticket ifyoucan Otherwise, onthese. Marmaris andyoucansometimesbuyaone- in the the rest of at5pm.Tickets theweek are sold Thursday, SaturdayandSundayat9am, hours. FromBodrumtheyreturn onTuesday, and Sundayat5pm.Thetriptakes abouttwo at 9am,andonTuesday,Thursday, Saturday €2.75) onMonday,WednesdayandFriday €11/14, caranddriver €28,extrapassengers ries leave single/return forBodrum(passenger 5km fromDatçaontheGulfof Gökova). Fer- % Boat excursions toDatçaoften leave from From mid-Junetomid-November regular Knidos Yachting There are nowtworestaurants and two In a150-year-old withapool stonehouse 0252 7.30am-midnight) 712 3951; Can Yücel Sokak; www.dedepansiyon.com;s/d 712 3951;CanYücelSokak; , reserve bytelephone. Divingtripscan , reserve ı

BodrumFerryboat Association as ı Caddesi17) ( % 712 4188; Hurma Sokak 16;mains €3.85-5.55; 712 4188;Hurma Sokak ) isalovely Thesix placetostay. at the marina sells tickets atthemarinasells for WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundMarmaris WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN

( is apicturesque place for % 712 9464;www.knidosyachting hassimplebutspot- ı Do ) gülets nexttothetown ğ a Pansiyon . For Rhodes . ForRhodes Dede Pansiyon ( % 712 2143; (

% Datça 712

cushioned benches set in a pleasant terrace- inapleasant cushioned benches set fee €1.10,mains€2.75-3.85; the importance ofthe importance thetownbyexploring the appreciate butyou cancertainly ognisable, at anchor. perfect baysinwhich ahandfulof yachts rest almond andfruittrees above rise twopicture- terraced andplanted withgroves of olive, boar. hillsides isdramatic: steep Thesetting goatherds, theirflocksandtheoccasional wild at theendof apeninsulaoccupiedonlyby kilometresseveral outof town. bays fromwoodenpiers, butthebeaches are so there are nofacilities. Youcanswiminthe in thevillage stays are notallowed, Overnight open tothepublicattimeof research). repository forartefacts foundonthesite (not emergencies, acoupleof placestoeatanda jandarma while inKnidos. was oneof themanythathadtoholeupa ing. Theshiptaking St Paul toRomefortrial business inshiprepairs, andtrad- hospitality for favourable winds,givingitaprosperous in ancienttimesoften hadtowaitatKnidos change asoneroundsthepeninsulaandships Dorians whofoundeditwere smart:thewinds city of The Knidos datingfromabout 400BC. of Datça,are theruinsof theprosperousport At thevery tipof thepeninsula,35kmwest Knidos Datça. runintothevillagegust hourlybuses from twohours.they runevery FromJunetoAu- onthehour. half-hour every Inlowseason, October. FromEskiDatçatoDatça,theyrun houronthefromMayrun every to From DatçatoEski(€0.85),minibuses THERE&AWAYGETTING peaceful placeforacoffee, tea orsnack. garden shaded byalmondtrees, isavery is the and outside. midnight) ( for atuneortwo. Cheaperisthe Mehmet, gets outhis fish andmeat.Occasionallyoneof theowners, lunch ordinner. inbarbecued Itspecialises % Around 50mbefore theDedePansiyon Few of theancientbuildings are easilyrec- The The ruinsaside,Knidosconsistsof atiny 712 2253; Datça Mahallesi; mains€2.20-3.05; 712 2253;DatçaMahallesi; Ant onthemainsquare, inside withtables ruins ofKnidos ı k Café (police)postwithaphonefor

( % 712 9176; Can Yücel Sokak 1;cof- 712 9176;CanYücelSokak are scattered along3km h ney 9am-1am) (Turkish clarinet) which, with Karya Restoran Restoran Karya h

345 10am- WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN mud baths or, ifyoucantake aboat excursion perb views of thelake. It’s35km byroadtothe baths ( p351 ) andEkincik( opposite ) offers su- western shore of thelake mud totheSultaniye orchards andfarmland.The road alongthe bicycles, sotake arideouttothesurrounding pensionsrent restaurants. out several Several townpark,shadypleasant tea gardensand Stroll alongthelakeshore promenadepastthe Sights &Activities stocks asimplemap. er’s Lodge) onthemainsquare’s eastern edge, Mon-Fri) Monday. every brings inpeoplefromoutlyingvillages, isheld ture eucalyptus trees. Thelocalmarket, which pensions andrestaurants, andsomefinema- Boyu, theroadskirtinglake, hasseveral tothemainsquare.the policestation Kordon Bulvar Atatürk 2.5km fromthewaterfront. Themainstreet, about turn-off, The otogarisnearthehighway Orientation &Information lake, Köyce perches atthenorthernendofreserve, alarge insideanature littletown,set This sleepy % KÖYCE cost about €12per person. 9.30am andreturn and intheearlyevening, Knidos. Boatstend toleave around9amor waiting time,for€35. to Knidosandreturn, withuptotwohours’ Datça, willtake uptothree peoplefromDatça Knidos Taxi, nearCumhuriyetMeydan THERE&AWAYGETTING small tip. The guardianwillshow youaroundfora inwhat wasonceaByzantinechurch. carvings theatre site. Don’tmissthe 346 and serene. tion here isthelake –broad,beautiful itself of precious ambergum.Theonlyreal attrac- also famousforitsliquidambartrees, source fruit, olives, honeyandcotton.Thisregion is Köyce cept foritssmall(butgrowing)touristtrade, Med bytheDalyanRiver.iterranean Sea Ex- The Ask inDatçaharbouraboutexcursions to 0252 /pop7,520 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Köyce WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN , nexttoKöyce ğ , the 4th-century BC , the4th-centuryBC Ğİ tourist office tourist iz isafarmingtownproducingcitrus Z ğ iz Gölü,which isjoinedtothe ı , runs from the highway past , runsfromthehighway

temple ofAphrodite temple ( % ğ iz Ö 262 4703; ğ retmenevi (Teach- sundial h andthefine 8.30am-7pm andthe ğ iz ı in right bythelakeside,right 12of theAlila’srooms season €20/28,low€14/22; tains. tains. arrange treks intothenearbyGölgeli Moun- adults andtwochildren. Themanager can side viewsof thelake. two Apartmentssleep location, butroomsandbalconieshave only from thecentre, thishasapeacefullakeside Boyu 96;s/d/apt€11/22/33; local attractions,includinglunch. ofuse 24bikes andboattrips(€5.55)tothe roof terrace. Thefriendlyowneroffers free and cheap, allhave balconiesandthere’s a smallandsimple,roomsareThough clean .com; Ali coming intotown. to thewestasyouapproach themosquewhen Most of theaccommodationoptionsare off Sleeping waterfront. including lunch; thevessels lineuponthe the Kaunos ruinsfor€9to€12perperson is about800mfromthehighway. ‘Arboretum’ signiftheymissit).Thewaterfall toknowwhere todropyou(nearthe all seem away onthelake’s southernshore. nauticalmiles from thepromenade,it’seight .net; Cengiz Topel Caddesi69;s/d€22/39; tobook. tour groups,soyou mayneed there’s garden. It’spopularwith apleasant are and cheerful andwellmaintained, bright, Prices includelunch andtransfers. Rooms (€6.65 to€8),trekking (€11)andrafting(€22). boattrips activities includingdayandnight school sportsteacher, thisplaceisbigon €6.50/11/15.50; .com; Ali is byfarthebestvalueintown. ingardensatthelakeside boasts apoolset and downtotheswan-folded(right towels!).Italso place professionally andattends detail toevery owner Ömar,whobuiltthehotel, runsthe also boastdirect viewsof thewater. Thefriendly Marmaris andMu ing. Take anyminibus headingwesttowards of town,where localsgoforaspotof bath- want toget offatthe Panorama Plaza Tango Pansiyon Flora Hotel Fulya Pension You cantake Alila Hotel There’s asmall İ hsan Kalamaz Caddesi100;s/d€8.50/16.50; hsan Kalamaz İ hsan Kalmaz Caddesi112;dm/s/dperperson hsan Kalmaz Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( ( ai % %

262 1150; Emeksiz Caddesi 13; s/d high 262 1150;EmeksizCaddesi13;s/dhigh ( 262 4976; www.florahotel.info; Kordon 262 4976;www.florahotel.info;

% ( % ( % boat trips boat trips ğ ) waterfall waterfall Managed bythelocal la andtell thedriver you 262 2301;fulyapension@mynet 262 3773;www.panorama-plaza 262 2501;www.tangopension ş ai elale as (waterfall) –they about 7kmwest to Dalyan and ) Around800m ) Uniquely set Uniquelyset as ) Lying ai

) €1.10, köfte 2.20, kebap €2.75,pide€1.10-2; 2.20,kebap €1.10, köfte house’, andthat’swhatthisis.Whitewashedhouse’, surfing and sailing aresurfing andsailing allfree toguests. andarecomfortable goodvalue. Bikes, wind- peaceful gardenswithlake views.Roomsare poolin ugly-looking buildinghasapleasant almost 1kmwestof themosque,thisrather Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com hills pitching down toacrescent beach. The Köyce This isolated beach village, 36kmsouthof % EK half-hour.hour, 95km)every half-hour. runtoFethiye Buses (€3.35,1¾ (€1.40,25minutes, and Ortaca 20km) every 34km), Marmaris (€2.75,onehour,60km) lake. Dolmu otogar ontheoutskirtsof town,2kmfromthe willdropyouattheKöyce Most buses Getting There&Away bethetime. fish, nowmight are notbad.Ifyouhaven’t yettasted Turkey’s It offers agoodrange of fresh fish,andprices fish, theTheraalsohasawaterfront terrace. to theCol Caddesi 1;350gfish€6.65-11; the AlilaHotel. alabal (mixed speciality mezeplatter) orthehouse grills atgoodprices.Trythedelicious views of thelake front.Thelocalslove itfor and wooden,ithasashadedterrace with €3.35; back. Thepricesare unbeatable. on alittlegreen andshaded terrace outthe square, itis much-loved locallyandhastables A simplebutcharming placeoffthemain here. on thebeach. Youcanswimandsunbathe drinksatrock-bottom pricesright serves café, 1kmoutof town on theEkincikroad, part of government-owned camping,butthe coffee ortea€0.27,cola€0.85; rants offthemainsquare. There are lotsof cheap andcheerful restau- Eating between theotogarandtown. between Dolmu Fish Restaurant Thera Col Mutlu Karde Mutlu Köye İ 0252 /pop860 NC h ı ba ı ğ k ğ İ iz, is surrounded by high pine-cladiz, issurrounded byhigh

K iz Belediye (trout,€5.55).It’sabout 100mfrom 10am-1am) ( % ş es runtoDalaman(€2,30minutes, ı ba andafavourite locallyforits ş 262 2987; Cengiz Topel Caddesi 64; köfte 262 2987;CengizTopelCaddesi64;köfte es (€0.42) run every 15minuteses (€0.42)runevery ş ler Its name means ‘sweet little Itsnamemeans‘sweet

( ( % % 262 2480;Tören Alan 262 4090; Ulucamii Mahallesi; 262 4090;UlucamiiMahallesi;

h ( % h 8am-10pm) 262 3514;CengizTopel 9am-midnight) It’sactually WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Ekincik WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN h 7am-1am) ı Close Close 52;soup ordövr ğ iz

the EkincikPansiyon onthebeach, right this board €17/33; s/d €11/22,halfboard€22/44; garden, theEkincikisquite nicelydesigned stalls selling snacks and selling stalls to €14for500g). dishes aswellfish (€10 fresh fromthesea good-qualityOttoman-inspired and serves giant white parasolsandgrass-roofed huts under set tables brand newplacehaspleasant €2.20; mains€10-14; and ninehave direct views. sea Allroomshaveand maintained. balconies h Köyü; perperson€19-28dependingonseason; .com; Ekincik and surroundinglandscape.of thesea There’s alsoaroof terrace views withsweeping pineforeststhe mountain ororganise picnics. the friendlyowner,canguideyouontreks in but spotlessroomswithbalconies.Ahmed, the EkincikPansiyon, theAkdenizhassimple and hammocks. with tables shadeda pleasant area outsideundertrees, andspotless,family-runpension.There’slight of just totheright themainroadisthisbright, board). The first twooptionsoffer Sleeping &Eating and meals. sunlounges aswellcheap andtables, drinks €3.35-7; HalkPlaji ve municipality-run a swimorsomesun-soaking,headforthe springs, turtlebeach etc,€166).Ifyoufancy Dalyan, €133)andafullday(Kaunos, hot for upto12people),sixhours (Kaunos and Trips are forthree hours (toKaunos, €100 May-Oct) Cooperation Boat Ekincik information. Youcanalsohire boatsfromthe Ahmed atHotel Akdenizisagoodsourceof Ekincik hassomegreat trekking possibilities. Sights &Activities which was halted after legalcomplications. of ahotel nearthebeach, construction of wiches, €1) along the seafront insummer.wiches, €1)alongthe seafront scenery is marred only by the half-built shellscenery ismarred onlybythehalf-built For cheap there eats, are plentyof cafés and Ship AHoy Hotel Ekincik Hotel Akdeniz Hotel Pansiyon Ekincik May-Oct; May-Oct; onthesouthernsideof thebeachfront. h mid-Apr–mid-Sep) a a

(

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About 350mfromthebeach

( 266 0001; Ekincik KöyüBulvar 266 0001;Ekincik h % 266-0045; Ekincik Köyü;mezefrom 266-0045; Ekincik

( ( % Köyce % 8am-midnight Apr-Oct) 8am-midnight Apr-Oct) 266 0255;www.akdenizotel.com; 266-0203; www.hotelekincik 266 0179;fax0003;s/dhalf

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347 (half WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN h (admission €2.50; Founded aroundthe9thcentury BC, KAUNOS Sights &Activities Café Ünsal Internet office Tourist buildinginthecentre. the PTT There’s anATM onthesoutheastern sideof Information 1km southandendsneartheriverbank. sions are alongMara a pairof turtles. features of andanotherof astatue Atatürk stopbehind thesquare,Minibuses which square) themosqueandPTT. between to Dalyan’sCumhuriyetMeydan atOrtaca It’s about 10kmfromthehighway Orientation and willowtrees. reach thecharming oldDalyanof gardens tion, butitonlytakes afew minutes’ walkto become anotherblandconcrete agglomera- identical restaurants andthetowncentre has all thisactivity.Dalyanmaybefillingupwith of Lycianrocktombsgazesilently downon and way totheruinsof ancientKaunos (Caunos) of theDalyanRiver (DalyanÇay thereed apaththrough beds Fethiye carving mada of excursion boatsfrom Marmaris and here,stay summerafternoons bringanar- atmosphere. Ontopof to whochoose those so farmanaged tokeep someof itspeaceful creasingly a package-tour colony, Dalyan has Once asomnolentfarmingtownandnowin- % DALYAN who are concerned aboutsecurity. to Marmaris halted bythemilitary, hadbeen completion of thenewroadlinkingEkincik at 9.30amandreturns fromEkincikat6pm. The busleaves themainsquare (nottheotogar) EkincikandKöyce tween rundailybe- onetotwobuses September), During theschool holidays(mid-Junetoearly Getting There&Away 348 summer) h Most of thevillage’s better hotels andpen- Unfortunately, atthetimeof writingthe 8.30am-midnight) East of the tourist office on the left. officeontheleft. 8.30am-midnight) Eastofthetourist 0252 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri winter,8am-7pm 8am-noon &1-5pmMon-Fri İ ETR EIERNA • Dla ••Dalyan WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ztuzu beach. Above theriver thefaçades ( % h 284 4235;Mara 8.30am-5.30pm) (Karakol Sokak 23/A;perhr€1.10; Sokak (Karakol ş Caddesi, which runsfor Caddesi, ğ iz (€2.20, one hour). iz (€2.20,onehour). ş Caddesi2/C; became an im- ı ı (themain ) ontheir Kaunos Kaunos a basilicaanddefensive walls. acropolis nearbythere arewell preserved; partsof an industry. cient Kaunians also benefited fromsuch an dalyanlar curious woodenstructures intheriver are then it’safive-minute walktothesite. The by siltfromtheDalyanRiver. now retreated 5kmtothesouth,pushedback on which thearchaeological has site stands, which oncesurroundedthehill ranean Sea, the siltingof theirharbour. TheMediter- Kaunians’ prosperitywasalsothreatened by mous fortheiryellowish skinandeyes.The cording toHerodotus, itspeoplewere fa- Kaunos suffered fromendemicmalaria;ac- Kaunians, whoeagerly adopted thatculture. of hisHellenising Caria, influencereached the the tombs. for about 15minutes toget agoodviewof walk southfromtownalongMara points east).Ifyoudon’ttake ariver cruise, many more of thematFethiye, Ka arefor instance, inLycianstyle(you’llsee reflected aspects of bothkingdoms.The border withtheKingdomof Lycia,itsculture town and operate a‘river dolmu on three hours and€45fortheboat. hotspringsaswell,figurevisit theSultaniye costs €29fortheentire boat;ifyouwantto idle.standing Atwo-hourtourjustto Kaunos andmanyboatsareearly orlate intheseason Haggle toget thebestprice,particularlyifit’s ger to12people. boatthatholdsfromeight be more economicaltohire anentire passen- considerably more. son includinglunch; variouspirates charge Dalyan Kooperatifi boatsrunbythelocalcooperative,by taking coast. Youcansave yourself alotof money İ baths ( p351 ), theruinsof Kaunos ( left hotspringsandmud Gölü andtheSultaniye ) and toKöyce the quaysideat10amtocruise Every dayin summer, excursion boatsleave BOAT TRIPS portant Carian city by 400 BC. Right onthe Right cityby400BC. Carian portant ztuzu beach ( p351 ) ontheMediterranean Boats belonging to theboatcooperative Your boatwillpulluptothewestern bank; When Mausolus of Halicarnassus wasruler Apart fromthetombs, If youcanorganise asmall group,itmay andotherstructures, such asbaths, (fishingweirs). Nodoubtthean- İ ztuzu beach (called ‘Turtle Beach’ ztuzu beach (called ‘TurtleBeach’

( % 284 7843) ş ’ service between the between ’ service , for€11perper- lonelyplanet.com theatre ş andother ş Caddesi Caddesi isvery tombs ğ iz , stands onthebeach.stands notlikesome foodasyoumight thekebap other, lesscrowdedendof the beach). Take to make summerminibuses the13kmrun high 2pm andreturn 1pmand6pm.(In between 20minutesout aroundevery from10amto the return summerboatshead trip.Inhigh by localtouroperators), charging €2.75for Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com the water. also pickyouupfromyourhotel ifit’son (€8.50).Thecooperativesearly evening can (€8.50 return), andtothemudbaths inthe boats alsogotoKaunos three timesaday leaves day(€8.50).Dolmu at6.30amevery early morning turtle-spotting tour,which DALYAN (10km) To Îztuzu The boat cooperativeThe boat alsooffers atwo-hour İ ztuzu bylandaswellanddropyouatthe

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349 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN d €40.50-49.50dependingonseason; trees andlaysonagoodbreakfast. owner, makes herownjamsfromfruit decorated withnaturalmaterials. Munir,the Rooms are simpleandsmallish butstylishly andpeacefulplace. isapleasant the Caretta by cypress trees andhungwithhammocks, 26;s/d39/50) Sokak Kaunos pool. has alittleveranda. Thehotel alsohasalovely looking butare beautifullyfinished andeach bungalowsare32 octagonal ratheroriental- award-winning architect NailÇak gardens fullof birds,itwasdesignedbythe side of theriver), istheAsur. inlandscaped Set diagonally opposite Kaunos (butontheother Lying inthefarsouthwestern cornerof town, chair access. free accesstobikes. There’s arampforwheel- and mosthave balconies.Guestsalsohave king-sizebeds The spaciousroomscontain palms, thisisarelaxing andpeacefulplace. area inaterrace shadedbyold and seating set 7;s/d€22/33; Sokak Hotel Kilim MIDRANGE &TOPEND four people). boat isrented out for€33perday(forupto views. BBQsare anda organised inseason of thefourroomswithbalconiesandriver possibly thebestviewsinDalyan.Ask forone its centrallocationandroof terrace with simple andspotless,butthebigboonhere is pansiyon.com; Yal value. ontheriverbank.a terrace right It’sgood havebathrooms), seven river viewsandthere’s 350 Ç Happy Caretta Asur Hotel Asur €51/87; Sultan Palas Hotel THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE from a spot on the riverbank 2km north of town.from aspot ontheriverbank 2kmnorth scheduled dailyboat shuttlesfromtown,oroutsidehours, callthehotel foraferry pick-up service eachhasitsownveranda.attractive andcomfortable; Togethere, eithercatchoneofthefive dishes,dinnerisdelicious. little suites,on oldOttoman Rooms,designed like are restrained but the placeshipshapeandchoosesveg forhertable. personallyfromthelocalmarkets Styled and nopopmusicare Nil,theredoubtable allowedtopassthecelestialportals. managerkeeps full offruittrees andagorgeous pool,it’strulyaheavenly haven. Here notraffic, no tourgroups tion ofcrossingtheStyxwithCharon to reach theSultan.Withroomssetinalusciousgarden ı nar Sahil Pension nar Sahil ETR EIERNA • Dla ••Dalyan WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN h

( %

( May–mid-Oct; May–mid-Oct; % ı Sokak 14;s/d€17/28) Sokak 284 2253; www.kilimhotel.com; Kaunos Kaunos 284 2253;www.kilimhotel.com;

( h 284 3232;www.asurotel.com;s€27-35, % Apr-Nov; 284 2109;www.happycaretta.com;

Withaterrace kept cool

( ( % % as 284 2402;www.cinarsahil 284 2103; www.sultanpalasdalyan.co.uk; Horozlar Mevkii; s/d€44/73,withhalfboard 284 2103;www.sultanpalasdalyan.co.uk; HorozlarMevkii; as h ) May-Oct; May-Oct; Accessible fromDalyanonlybyferry, youreally have thesensa- Roomsare Withapool ) ı rhan. The as

) tavuk c delicious Turkish dishes(such as designed byNailÇak €2.20; h dishestoo(€1.65). goodveggie does and-pick counter anddishes are fresh daily.It prices.There’scooking atunbeatable apoint- this isfirmfavourite locallyforitshome-style DostlarSofrasi Atay RESTAURANTS that evening. cheek-by-jowl; themostpopularone choose where are Bars Caddesi itwidensslightly. well asyourbillafterwards. prices before ordering(particularlyfish), as sureing inDalyan’srestaurants. tocheck Be readers haveSeveral complainedof overcharg- Eating &Drinking Beach. to The hotel hasafree boatservice arches. Ten have river views,ten poolviews. bougainvillea-clad verandas withSpanish andhavethe poolinasemicircle attractive tombs. Rooms,simplebutstylish,surround above right set theriver opposite theLycian of theDalyanisstunningly series semicircles, h s€39-47,d€53-72dependingonseason; Kordon BoyuSokak; €2.20, mainsinclfish€5-11; opposite the restaurant. ing out.There are inashaded tables garden withallmembers help- this isafamilyaffair to €2.20)andpizza(€2.75€5)freshly made, Hugely popularforitsdeliciouspide(€1.40 Caretta Caretta Caretta Pide&Pizza Metin Dalyan Hotel For adrink,headforthepointonMara May-Oct; May-Oct; 8.30am-9.30pm lowseason,tomidnighthighseason) h ı ğ 6.30am-midnight) erli börek as

( % (

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Attractively designedina ( % – beef filletwithchicken –beef

( 284 2239;www.hoteldalyan.com; % 284 3039;Mara 284 2156;Cam Opposite themosque, ı h rhan, this place does rhan, thisplacedoes 284 2877; Sulunger Sokak 3/B; 284 2877;SulungerSokak 8am-1am Mar-Nov) 8am-1am Mar-Nov) lonelyplanet.com ş Caddesi124;meze ı Kar bonfile ve bonfile ş ı s ı 69;mains İ ztuzu Also ş

ish delight (boxish delight €2.75to€5),aswelllocal €11) tothecrocheted tablecloths andgourd (€1.95). place alsoforabeer have afairchance of one. bagging It’sagreat the woodenplatformabove thewater, you With anumberof ontheriverbank tables and livers pastry)atpleasingprices. baked inpuff lonelyplanet.com 25 minutes, 20km) andDalaman(€0.40, 15 gotoKöyce otogarbuses Ortaca andchangehour inlowseason) there. At every season, 30minutes(€0.85, every inhigh to Dalaman.First take aminibustoOrtaca There are nodirect fromhere minibuses Getting There&Away all locallymade. h Dondurma spices andhoney.Foricecream, headfor h (€1.95)istodiefor.nut andwalnuttart brekie orfor picnicpreparations. Thehazel- Turkish puds(€1.65)it’sagreat placefor season) coffee €0.85; Metin, goodfresh itsells bread. season, to10pmhighseason) Firin Tas CAFÉS &QUICKEATS fishis aspeciality. Thestuffed cial sauces. andfishaccompaniedbyhisownspe- seafood hisowncooking,offerswho stilldoes exquisite quack of ducks.Theowner,anex–headchef miring theLyciantombsandlistening tothe you candineundermulberrytrees whilead- also boastsagorgeous andbreezy terrace where ered Dalyan’sbestfish restaurant, theRiverside meze €3-8,450gfish€9-11; known foritsscrumptiouskebaps (€6.50). plum andpomegranate trees, thisplaceis bles inalovely gardenwithapoolandorange, 127; meze€2.20; nights. lamps. There’s jazzandtraditionalmusicmost ity, thedelicious makes special- –fromthehouse everything cooking atfairprices.Thefamilywhorunsit littleplaceoffersSq, thisdelightful home-style 2.50; Dalyan Spice Demet Pastanesi Restaurant Riverside Okakba Bistrot Clou 7am-midnight May-Oct) 8.30am-midnight Apr-Oct) h With priceless pastries and tantalising Withpricelesspastriesandtantalising

9am-midnight Apr–mid-Oct) ( % ş

( % h ı Restaurant 284 3839; Sulunger Sokak 2; 284 3839;SulungerSokak

( h 284 4363;Mara 7.30am-6pm lowseason,tomidnighthigh %

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundDalyan WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN 9.30am-midnight Apr-Sep) ( 284 3452;Pazar Yeri meze€1.65- Sokak; %

güvec ( % 284 4397;Mara h , which sells 20flavours,, which sells Diagonallyopposite the

( ( % 284 4124;Mara % Sells gorgeous Sells Turk- 8.30am-midnight) (casseroles, €4.75to (casseroles, ş Caddesi43/A;1scoop€0.55; 284 3166;Sa 284 5294;Mara Just off Market Justoff h ş Caddesi37; ğ ş ğ Caddesi39; Withta- 7am-6pm low iz (€1.40, l Consid- ı k Sokak 7; 7; k Sokak ş Caddesi Sibel Springs man to there are about five from dailyflights Dala- European citiesduring thetouristseason, tomany flights Besides east–west highway. and another5.5km fromthetownto are good. andbusconnections through pass straight wake) ajet arrives. whenever Mostvisitors bouring river Nowitstirs delta. (butdoesn’t the regional airportwasbuiltontheneigh- This agriculturaltownwasfairlydozy until % DALAMAN season. inhigh half-hour (€2.20, 15minutes) runfromDalyanevery are strictlyenforced.Toget here, minibuses above ) andspecialrulestoprotect the turtles theboxedof theloggerhead turtle(see text, of thelastnestingsites intheMediterranean escape thecrowds. sunbeds butyoudon’thave towalkfar The beach has afew snackbars andranksof Ku ment youfindbetween resolutely forbiddenthesortof hotel develop- paws onitforyears, butthegovernment has Developers have itching toget been their Dalyan River isanexcellentswimmingbeach. fromthemouthof the thesea bar separating About 13km southof town, this4.5kmsand- İ negotiate hard. to contract aprivate you’llneed boat,though Youcanalso season). hour outsidethehigh insummer,every half-hour (around every (€2.75, 30minutes), which leave whenfull tures baths. ashot asintheSultaniye pack of mudinasulphurpool withtempera- joins thelake, youcangive yourself abody- smaller mudbaths justbefore DalyanRiver Temperatures sometimesreach 40°C.Atthe good forskincomplaintsandrheumatism. andareand othermineralsalts, tobe said in calcium,sulphur,iron,nitrates, potassium mildly radioactive mineralwaters thatare rich Köyce of Southwest Sultaniye HotSprings&MudBaths AROUND DALYAN the stopwestof thePTT. leaveminutes, 5km).Dalyan’sminibuses from ztuzu Beach It’s 5.5kmfromtheairport tothetown, To get here, youcanget a‘dolmu 0252 /pop19,600

(Sultaniye Kapl İ stanbul year-round,stanbul costing €78 one ı calar İ ğ ztuzu is important asone ztuzu isimportant iz Gölü,the ı ; admission€1.95) ş adas ı andAlanya. Sultaniye Hot contain contain ş

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351 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN tion of small restaurants, a PTT andATMs.tion of smallrestaurants, aPTT square, which hasabustof acollec- Atatürk, centre. drive Minibuses down tothemain main road,fromwhere it’sa 1kmwalktothe and later president. gut Özal,Turkey’s go-getting primeminister 1980s asthefavoured holidayretreat of Tur- Itfirstmountains. came toprominenceinthe tive bydry, pine-speckled bayalmostenclosed Köyce between This small-scaleholidayvillage is halfway % GÖCEK eitherMu pass through two hours, 120km).Allroutes northandeast (€1.50, 45minutes, 34km)andMarmaris (€5, (€8,5½hours,as Antalya 272km),Köyce you canbuytickets tomanydestinations, such Kenan Evren Bulvar Dalaman for€7to€9. toget into other timesyoumayneed ataxi pick uppassengers outsidetheairport.At buscompanies several season, way. Inhigh 352 Buses drop you at a petrol station onthe dropyouata petrolstation Buses At Dalaman’sotogar,nearthejunctionof details of turtle-spotting boattours. details ofturtle-spotting Tekirova, Belek,K struggleforsurvival. beach thatcouldhampertheturtles’ nottoleave anylitter important onthe toavoiddisturbingthenests.the stakes It’sparticularly onthebeachindicateswooden stakes thenestsites andvisitorsare tosunbathebehind asked to thepublicduringday,night-time visitsare prohibited fromMaytoSeptember. Alineof led totheplansbeingabandoned. that developers wanted tobuildahotel rightonthebeachthere wasanoutcrythateventually up thebeachtowardsdangerinstead ofdowntotheseaandsafety. Sowhenitwasdiscovered are builttooclosetothebeach,theirlightscanconfuseyoungsters, leadingthemtomove theirwaytowardsthesea, drawnbythereflected make light.Ifhotelsturtles andrestaurants they willbefemale. At asteady 30°Caneven mixofthegenderswillhatch. determines thegenderofensuingyoung:below30°Callyoungwillbemale;above 30°C females mayabandonthenestsandreturn tothesea. 120 soft-shelled white eggsthesize ofping-pongballs,thencover themover. Ifdisturbed,the the sand.Usingtheirbackflipperstheyscoopoutanestabout40cmdeep,laybetween70and brown ontopandyellow-orangebelow.Anadultcanweighupto130kg. last Mediterranean nestingsites of Some yearsagoDalyan’s TURTLE ALERT 0252 ETR EIERNA • Gck ••Göcek WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN The loggerhead turtle alsonestsonthebeachesatDalaman,Fethiye,The loggerheadturtle Patara, Kumluca, Kale, At thesametime,ruleswere introducedtoprotect Althoughthebeachisstillopen theturtles. As soonasthey’re born(atnightwhenit’s cool andfewer predators are about),theyoung The eggsincubate inthesandfor50to65daysandtemperature atwhichtheydoso Between MayandSeptember thefemale comeashore atnighttolaytheireggsinturtles The loggerhead turtle ( The loggerheadturtle ğ iz andFethiye onanattrac- ı z ı lot, Demirta ı and Atatürk Caddesi, Caddesi, andAtatürk ğ la orFethiye. İ ztuzu Beach shot toworldfamewhenaseriousthreat tooneofthe deniz kaplumba ş , Gazipa Caretta caretta, ş a andAnamurintheGöksuDelta. See p348 for ğ ğ a iz inTurkish) isalarge flat-headed reptile, reddish taurant onabeautifullittlecovetaurant withabeach. picnic andcampinggroundwithasmallres- 2km furthereast,atKatranc in woodlandoverlooking alovely bay.About shared views. balconywithsea rooms,fourofand rathersweet which have a the family-runTufanhassmallbut spotless Marina; s/d€22/33) Marina; nice veranda. bour, ithassimple butspotlessroomswitha (see (see p354 ) to beaches onnearbyislands. youcantake a‘ quay, although fairly scrappy 14; s/dhigh season€28/44,low €28/33; €14/17, lowseason€11/14) Tufan Pansiyon PENSIONS &HOTELS Dinlenme Yeri About 10kmeastof Göcek, CAMPING Sleeping the loggerhead turtle, wasidentified. theloggerheadturtle, Ba D Göcek isaplaceforrelaxing. There’s onlya ı m Pansiyon ş ak Pansiyon Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(per tent€2.75) ( Atthewestern endof the har- ( beach % %

( % 645 1294; www.dimhotel.com; Sokak 645 1294;www.dimhotel.com; Sokak 645 1334; Marina; s/dhighseason 645 1334;Marina; at thewestern endof the Just 25m from the sea, Just25mfromthesea, 645 1024;fax1862;Skopea has camping facilities hascampingfacilities Küçük Karg ı , there’s another 12-island cruise ı Orman as İ ) çi çi ’ vourite that serves agreat of selection mezes. vourite thatserves by anoldyuccatree, thisisanoldlocalfa- butwithalovelythe seafront terrace shaded cialises inAnatoliandishes. cialises at thebackof itscavernous interior andspe- for achange butit’snotcheap. fortea.tarts Ifyou’re kebaped-out, it’sgood internet connection,baconforbreakfast and in cuisineandWestern infeel withwireless fet is served. fet isserved. the attractive terrace. Agoodbreakfast buf- the real boonisthemedium-sizedpoolon up abitwithwallpaperandfurnishings, but value. a location30mfromthebeach, thisisgreat terrace,a pleasant medium-sizedpooland With simplebutwell-furnished roomsand lonelyplanet.com teresting sites toexplore, includingthe ghost spots, and theFethiye region hasmany in- Ölüdeniz ( p359 ), oneof hot Turkey’s seaside has 11more islands.About 15kmsouthis Ş harbour, protected fromstormsbyanisland, gület often visited at thebeginningorendof a It’s anincredibly relaxed placedespite itssize, when Fethiye wascalledTelmessos (400BC). itandleftonlytombsfromthetime levelled with few oldbuildings.An earthquake in 1958 pealing broadbay, Fethiye isavery oldtown Tucked intothesouthernreaches of anap- % FETH hour)first.every change (€2.75,25minutes, 25km, atOtacer (€1.95, 30minutes, 30km).ForDalyan, toFethiye half-hour departevery Minibuses Getting There&Away €11-17; to 12.30amhighseason) breakfast €5,mains€4.50-12.50; €42 fortwotothree people). The specialityis seafood meze€3-8; Restaurant Can Eating €56/67; .com; Turgut ÖzalCaddesi;s/dhigh season€67/83,low övalye Adas A&B HomeHotel Anatolia West Café &Bar West Café Fethiye’s innerbayisanexcellentnatural 0252 /pop50,700 cruise. İ as h YE 7am-midnight) ( % ) Thesmallish roomsare dolled

( ı % 645 6941; Marina; meze€2.20-8;mains 645 6941;Marina; ; themuch larger outer bay h WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Fethiye WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN tuzda

645 1507; Skopea Marina; meze€1.65, 645 1507;SkopeaMarina; (

% ( 7am-midnight) Well-named, it’sWestern % Has terrace apleasant 645 2794;Turgut ÖzalCaddesi;

645 1820;www.abhomehotel bal h ı k 9am-midnight lowseason, (fishbaked insalt, Set backfrom Set and Turkish CDs. English-Turkish andbooksmapsonTurkey, dictionaries h Apr) Next to the marina, justpasttheRomantheatre. tothemarina, Apr) Next h to perhaps 400 BC. of StJohn onearlierfoundations datingback tower of a of theroad toKayaköy, notice theruined times. vated remains of a tombs lieabout500mtotheeast. monuments really mean toyou.Othersmaller first consideringhowmuch Lycianfunerary up steps toget there; onahotdayit’sworth timetovisit.It’sasteep climb most pleasant Itgetsinsummer,the crowdedatsunset BC. rockfacein350 inthesheer façade carved (admission €2.50; centuries ago. them. Allwere broken intobytombrobbers vate gardens–thetownwasbuiltaround and others inthemiddleof streets orinpri- There’s onenorthof450 BC. the Lycian stone thetown Throughout youwill noticecurious ANCIENT TELMESSOS Sights &Activities Office Tourist Bookshop Imagine foreign exchange offices. hasbankswithATMs Caddesi Atatürk and Information clustered aroundthemarina. (Pür andthestadium Caddesi Atatürk between Tuesday market takes placealongthecanal names.Thetown’s can beknownbyseveral enjoy renaming streets, sothesmallerstreets The street, Caddesi. Atatürk the marina. Dolmu the inexpensive pensionsare westof itpast end hotels are nearthecentre, butmanyof 1km eastof thecentre. Midrange andtop- centre, forminibuses station withaseparate Fethiye’s busyotogaris2.5kmeastof the town Orientation over thehill. town of Kayaköy (Karmylassos, p361 ), just On thehillsidebehind thetown,just north theexca- theharbouryou’llsee Behind thetownis Behind 9am-6pm) Sells foreign newspapersandmagazines, 9am-6pm) Sells 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Fri Oct- Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon &1-5.30pmdailyMay-Sep, ş abey Caddesi). Yachtingabey Caddesi). agencies are Crusader fortress ( % sarcophagi h 614 1527; ( 8am-7pm) % theatre ş 614 8465;AtatürkCaddesi18; es runalongthemain datingfromaround İ skele Meydan skele datingfromRoman built by theKnights , anIonictemple Tomb ofAmyntas belediye ı ; belediye seems to seems 353

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 30 minutes including allequipment€75). (perpersonand lunch €45)and parasailing for (per person including twodives, allequipment boatticketssells and canalsoorganise diving .oceantravelagency.com; Agency &Travel Ocean Turizm BEACHES &WATER SPORTS sometimes closed. interesting it’s Ottoman-eraexhibitsalthough has some the gods.Theethnographysection money todosomegoodworkinhonour of language. ItdescribeshowKingKaunos gave p365 todeciphertheLycian ), which wasused (Lycian-Greek-Aramaic) (see fromtheLetoön Stelae of andthetrilingualstele Promise) and votive stones(theStelae of Graves and h Museum Among itsmostinteresting exhibits, FETH 354 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION obo mna...... E2 C2 Tomb ofAmyntas...... Roman TheatreRuins...... D1 Lycian StoneSarcophagi...... F2 D2 Lycian RockTombs...... Crusader Fortress...... C2 Tourist Office...... E2 Toilets...... D1 Post Office(PTT)...... Agency...... (see6) Ocean Turizm&Travel A2 C2 Jandarma (Police)...... Imagine Bookshop...... E1 Hospital...... FETHÎYE 8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) 20 13 ETR EIERNA • Ftie ••FethiyeWESTERN MEDITERRANEAN İ YE MUSEUM 12 (Fethiye Müzesi; 505 Sokak; admission€2.75;(Fethiye Müzesi;505Sokak;

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9am- tle placewithalovely positiononthebay.It unpromising, buttheDuygu’sahomelylit- choice of breakfast, it’svery goodvalue. The rooms, alarge terrace withbayviewsanda option, yetstilloffering clean(albeitsmall) 43; s/d€11/14) season; İ Hotel Horizon MIDRANGE &TOP END BBQs(€5.55perperson). does Good value,well-runanddynamic, italso have direct viewsandsmall balconies. sea sized poolandasmallroof terrace. Sixrooms rooms,as wellamedium- 14 spotless,pleasant ling tobringinthebackpackers, V-Go’s offers as OrduCaddesi66;dm/s/d€8/11/22; .boatcruisesturkey.com; small pool.Roomsare simplebutspotless. boasts aroof topwithblindingbayviewsanda .com; OrduCaddesi54;s/d€14/20; free shuttleto/fromtheotogar. good sourceof localinformation andthere’s a is apopularhang-outforbackpackers. It’sa dant it’slike entering aclearinginforest and two of therooms.Thehotel ‘lobby’issover- roofenclosed terrace) hasbeautifulviewsasdo extra €4.45perday.The‘dormitory’(aglass- withair-conare that.Those certainly costan smallandsimple,and therooms,though ai 2OrduCaddesi21;dm/s/d€5.50/14/20; .ferahpension.com; views, it’sagoodchoice. if theothers listed are full;withpoolandbay .com; OrduCaddesi48;s/d€11/14; bay views. the kitchen andthere’s alarge terrace with sparkling cleanandquiet.Guestscanuse are small(thebathroomssmaller),butit’s a firmfamilyfeel, here’s yourplace. Rooms banter and fortraditional Turkish hospitality three days’stay). tives (such asafree boattripformore than incen- andlong-stay offers variousservices owner, aretired teacher, and iskeen toplease 1;dm/s/dfrom€7/8/14; Sokak pekçi Caddesi 1;dm€6-11,s€8-22, d€17-39dependingon give themacallonarrival. ifyou will pickyouupfromthebusstation V-Go’s Hotel &Guesthouse Hotel V-Go’s Duygu Pension Pension Ferah Hotel Artemis Ideal Pension Tan Pansiyon as ) ) Brandnewwhenwevisited andbrist- Monika,themanager, ‘likes clean’ Ifyou’dratherswapbackpacker ) Aptly named, theHorizon easily ( %

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(Monica’s Place; 612 3153; www.otelhorizon.net; Abdi 612 3153;www.otelhorizon.net; ( % 614 1981;www.idealpension.net;26 612 4980;www.artemishotelfethiye 614 1584; fax 614 1676; 30 Sokak 614 1584;fax1676;30Sokak 614 3563;www.duygupension ai is as

( % % Thecheapest ) 614 5904;www Trythisone ) 614 2816;www Itmaylook )

355 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 356 waters andyourwallet.Here are someofoursuggestionstoavoidgettingfleeced: sense tolookaround.Besavvyanddemanding–there the are manyshoddyoperatorsworking is usually€84to€150forFethiye and€150forMarmarisperperson,notatallcheap,soitmakes without air-conditioning). mostpeoplesleeponmattressesstranger, butinpractice ondeckasit’ssohot(theboatsare ally sixtoeightofthem).This asinglepersonuneasyiftheyhave mightmake toshare witha doublecabins(usu- All boatsare equippedwithshowers,toiletsandsmallishbutcomfortable for somereason it’snotaspopular. Fethiye, fourdaysandthree nights. alsotaking Aficionados saythisisamuchprettier route but cheesy butfunSmugglersInn(Pirates Disco).Alesscommonroute isbetweenMarmarisand Baywhere atthe youhaveand Kekova, withthefinalnightatGökkaya theoptionofpartying is bybus. FromFethiye, Valley boatscallinatÖlüdenizandButterfly andstopatKa andthetripto/fromOlympos(1¼hours) orstopatKale start Olympos voyage,theboatsactually (Demre) isthehighlightoftheirtriptoTurkey.and Kale asaFethiye Usually advertised to (Blue Voyage), an area completely untouchedbytourismatthetime. Kabaa of hisidyllicsailingexcursionsalongTurkey’s southernAegean andwestern Mediterranean coasts, from Olymposbeachto Ka

Tolunay Bükülmez. Ye Olympos Yachting Interyouth Hostel Big Backpackers Between thewars, writer and painter Cevat BLUE VOYAGES own boattoFethiye, stoppingattheDalyanmudbaths andvisitingthe12islands. Numbersare limitedto12people. Almila BoatCruise is stiffbetweenthefollowing: Marmaris boatsusuallyruntwiceaweekfrommid-MaytotheendofSeptember). Competition boats. Boatscomeandgojustaboutevery dayoftheweekbetween late (the AprilandOctober summer thelarger companiesoften farmoutunknowingtouriststolazycaptainswithsuspect See alsotheboxed text, opposite formore tipsfromaclassiccautionary tale. Fethiye andoffers cruise. theFethiye–Kale has garnered goodreports. boatsand offer thepopular12-islandscruise(see two superior p354 ). Numbersare limitedto10people andthefood Book well ahead forJulyandAugust inordertobesure Bookwellahead ofgettingonacruise. aboatjustbecauseitisleavingtoday. Don’ttake in Don’tbuyyourticket Don’tgoforgimmicks suchasfree water They sports. often prove to beemptypromisesand Ask whetheryourcaptainandcrew speakEnglish. Checkoutyourboat(ifyouare inFethiye) andasktoseetheguestlist. Bargain, on butdon’tnecessarilygoforthecheapestoptionbecausecrew willskimp Ask forrecommendations fromothertravellers. ş ETR EIERNA • Bu oae ••BlueVoyages WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Backpacker cruisesareBackpacker usuallyquoted inpoundssterling. Dependingontheseasonprice Food andwater isusuallyincludedintheprice,butyouhave tobuyyourbooze ontheboat. For manytravellers afour-day, cruiseona three-night boats rarely have insuranceforthemincaseofaccidents. food andalcohol. We recommend theowner-operated outfitsbecausetheyrunamuchtighter ship.During il Marmaris Travel & Yachting anamenowcoopted for any cruisealongtheseshores. ( % ( ( % ( % % ş 0252-614 9312;www.bluecruisefethiye.com) Anewishventure runfromIdealPension in , run in conjunction with Türkmen’satOlympos( , runinconjunction p380 ). 0252-412 3687; [email protected]) In Marmaris, organiseshigh-qualitycruisesonits In Marmaris, 0252-412 3687;[email protected]) 0242-892 1145; www.olymposyachting.com) Offers a four-day/three-night cruise direct cruisedirect afour-day/three-night 0242-892 1145;www.olymposyachting.com) Offers 0535-636 0076;www.beforelunch.com) Runby aTurkish-Australian couple,whoown İ stanbul, as pensions and commission agents take ahealthycut. stanbul, aspensionsandcommissionagentstake ( % 412 2290; www.yesilmarmaris.com) In Marmaris, askforthehelpful InMarmaris, 412 2290;www.yesilmarmaris.com) Ş akir Kabaa akir ğ aç lived inBodrumandwrote anaccount gület ğ (wooden yacht)betweenFethiye aç calledhisbook lonelyplanet.com Mavi Yolculuk ş , Kalkan , Kalkan

this hotel isgoodvalueandhasawell-main- include free free internet cityshuttleevery use, currentlytious plansfortheplace. ‘Extras’ ning. Ibrahim,thenewmanager, hasambi- from thepool,terrace and17roomsare stun- steals thebest-view-in-Fethiye crown.Views lonelyplanet.com tired colonel,keeps theplaceshipshape. Be are- withdirect views).Hussein, eight sea able andhomelyrooms(allwithbalcony; ing terrace withgorgeous views,andcomfort- boastsadecent-sizedpool,din- guesthouse €25/42; Fevzi ÇakmakCaddesi115;s/dlowseason€20/33,high balconies overlooking thebay. medium-sizedpool.Threetained roomshave as Çakmak Caddesi38;s/dhighseason€22/33,low€20/28; menu(€4). set hour, free otogarpickupandagood-value Villa Daffodil Villa İ whole cruise. withthecaptainaboutmeals andwhetherthedieselengineand spoken willbeusedfor the are favourable,made100% sure that youare happy withtheboatyouwillbeleaving on, for theentire trip. ably noisydieselengine wouldbeused,andwehave tolive withtheviledieselfumes gülets vision ofatraditionalBlueVoyagewere destroyedwhenwe were toldthathardly anymodern were cockroaches andgrubbylineninallofthecabins. And thelastshreds of ourromantic those whocouldbringthemselves toeat)were meagre insize anddubiousinquality.There ing membersofthecrew) spenthouruponbeingviolentlyillover theside. The meals(for day. Outraged,wemadeourfeelings known.The response? Ashrugoftheshoulders. our noted whenweread the(miniscule)conditionsonbackofourtickets. Andworsewastocome– until acalmday.The were answerwasaflat‘no’–alltickets nontransferable, aswe would have the harbour,weentered ifitwaspossibletodelayourdeparture thecompany office andasked sailingconditions,wedecidedtosignup(whichinvolved payinginfull). perfect Assuredcabins andanenormous,wellset-up deck. thatthefollowingdaywasgoingtooffer THE CRUISEFROMHELL decided todoashesuggested. The have alookatanother,very similar,boat,though… boatwasn’tintheharbourtoday.Wecouldfollowing day.Alas,wewere told,thatparticular for andseemedprofessional tohave – so weasked alookattheboat thatwasleavingonthe in thefamousbluewaters. good–itpromisedeverything Onecompanylooked wewere looking at work?),butwhatwewanted upthesunandswimming wasaquietandrelaxing timesoaking day.Pricesseemedtovarylittle(wasthereand signupforacruiseleavingonthenext a cartel Mediterranean. ArrivinginFethiye, tocheckouttheboats wewentstraighttotheharbour,keen a timeoftheyeartotake It waslate June,supposedlytheperfect rem Hotel Hotel rem The moral?Don’tpayuntilyou have confirmed onthedaythatweather conditions Needless tosay,thetripwasadisaster. The conditionswere soroughthateveryone (includ- How stupid of us. The next morning brought with it gale-force winds. Making ourwaydownto winds.How stupidofus. Making The morningbroughtwithitgale-force next Deep down,warningbellswere ringing, the guywewere butweliked dealingwithandwe as ) gület Quieter and more private thanmany, use their sails (in fact, these are usetheirsails(infact, often purely ornamental).Instead, theboat’sunbeliev- washalfthesize andtwicetheageofboatwehadbeenshownonprevious ( ) Thislarge Ottoman-designed %

( WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Fethiye WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN % 614 3006; [email protected]; Fevzi614 3006;[email protected]; 614 9595;www.villadaffodil.com; Virginia Maxwell

gület he showed us was fabulous, with spacious, comfortable heshoweduswasfabulous,withspacious,comfortable down bythewater. an attractive outdoorarea withbigcushions pricey, butthere’s plentyof atmosphere and traditional Turkish menuandthefishcanbe drinkanddinner.to headforasunset It’sa along thepromenade,thisisagreat place Sahas Restaurant Yakamoz RESTAURANTS Eating ness Centre. hamam fitness centre, large landscapedgardens,a including well-furnished rooms,alarge pool, much character, theEceboastsgoodfacil ities depending onseason; 1;s€100-165,d€125-195 Mevkii .ecesaray.net; Karagözler gather here. astourgroups sure season tobook inhigh Ece Saray Marina &Resort Ece SarayMarina ı ; meals€8) , itsownsupermarket, andaWell- A pleasant 1kmwalkfromtown A pleasant gület ais ( % cruiseontheTurkish 612 4226;Yeni KordonDolgu

) ( Despite lacking % 612 5005;www

357 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN sell alcohol! sell nexttothemosque–anddoesn’t It’s right delicious pides (€1.40to€2.75). place does and simplebutsparklingclean,thispopular h Sokak, just off cheek-by-jowl ononelittle street, Hamam Fethiye’s bars are andnightclubs mostly Drinking &Entertainment concoction. delicious oven-baked tomatoandcheese beef, of dishes!). TrythePa little photos a well-pricedmenu(withuseful town’, thishonestandunpretentious placehas Considered locallytooffer the‘best kebaps in €1.65-2.20, pide€1.10-3.35,pizza€4-5; of aspeciality. güveç style cookingatvery prices.The palatable the Me Packed withlocalswhospillontothestreets, €5.55-14; Me QUICK EATS good icecream (€0.55perscoop). and pastries,thisexcellentchain alsosells Turkishpuds theusualtantalising Serving and there’s abookexchange. €4.45). Customers have free internet access (€2.75to andsandwiches goodsalads does Cornflakes toVegemite andpancakes. Italso frombaconand everything in townserving namic Atilla,theOleyoffers thebestbreakfast meals €4-7; Oley Café CAFÉS who can’tagree onwhere togo. all onoffer, suitbickering itmight couples phere. andFrench WithTurkish,Italian food avariedmenuinniceatmos- place serves decorated withtraditionalartefacts,house this €10-15; your-own theboxed (see text, right ). is afirmfavourite locally.Youcanalsobring- meat dishesaswellfish (itsspeciality)and inside thefishmarket building,thisplacedoes Yeri 53;meze€2.20,400gfish€8-11; 358 Özsüt Me etBal Hilmi Pa Nefis Pide ğ 9am-9pm lowseason,tomidnighthighseason) ri Lokantasi Lokantasi ri ş ETR EIERNA • Ftie ••FethiyeWESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ğ (casseroles, €5.55to€11)are (casseroles, something a Kebab h ri Restaurant ri ğ

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h h one blocknorthof Hamam Sokak. Itlies week. €5.55 includingonedrink)every (admission usually atleastone‘partynight’ mixture of localandWestern music.There’s isstyledlikeBananas abigbarnandplays topub-club), true clubintown(asopposed &Satonly lowseason) daily highseason,Fri lar withlocalsandrarely reports adullnight. thisplaceisparticularlypopu- pub-meets-club, comfy outdoorseating. or smoke anargileh (water pipe,€5.55)on the both localsandtravellers whocometodrink l’Ottoman, otogar as well),Sakl Kumluova, Ovac Kabak,Hisarönü, Kayaköy (Kaya), Kemer, include Faralya, byminibuses Göcek, served 0.5km eastof thecentre. Destinations around Caddesi, Atatürk off minibus station (€9, fourhours, 222km)ismuch quicker. hours, 219km).Theinlandroadto Antalya 2½ hours, 110km)andOlympos(€7.50, five Kalkan (€2.50,twohours, 81km),Ka stoppingat season, hourinhigh least every hours, 295km)headeastalongthecoastat (€10,7½ fromtheotogartoAntalya Buses you mustchange orMu atAntalya buses to goeastorwestandformanydestinations behindFethiyeThe mountains forcetransport Getting There&Away For intermediate destinations,gotothe Club Bananas DancingBar Ottoman Car Cemetery Cemetery Car bargain fitforaking. pany thefish,andfruitcoffee; it’sa bread withgarlicbutter, asaucetoaccom- ied, butthiswillprocure youagreen salad, nomin al cover charge ofjust€2.75islev- popular –andaskthemtocookit.A –pickthemostthat surroundthemarket the fishtooneofrowsrestaurants yourtimechoosing.then take ferry Next, upontheboards,the day’spriceschalked browsewhat’sonoffer,the market, check bring yourown!Followfishysmellstofind without losingtoomanyTurkish liraisto One waytotaste Fethiye’s fabulousfish BYOF –BRINGYOUROWNFISH 5pm-3am lowseason,10am-3amhighseason) noon-4am) thisisalong-timefavourite with Decorated totheextreme (

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British- 10pm-5am ş (€3, ğ la. à zler’ signinthewindowtoget tothepensions otogar allday.Take aminibuswith‘Karagö- andupÇar Caddesi Atatürk plytheone-waysystem alongMinibuses Getting Around Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com road just inlandfromthebeach. Caddesi) (Ölüdeniz Turizm Geli restaurants cluster andatight of hotels. andbacked with totraffic enade isclosed campinggrounds. to several lagoon. Theroadcontinuesbehind thepark jandarma Belcek Near thejunctionof theroadstoFethiye, a beautifulbeach backed byhotels. another3kmto cends steeply fromHisarönü colonies of Ovac thehilariouslyawfulpackage-tourthrough As youapproach Ölüdeniz,theroadpasses Orientation &Information Belcek synonymous withthetownandthataskingfor the nameof thelagoon(Ölüdeniz) isbecoming may prefer Note through. toshootthat straight has hardlybolstered itsappeal.Many travellers hotels, loudbars andoverpriced restaurants ofthe development identical air-conditioned of independenttravelhighlights inTurkey but adjacent beach resort) tobeoneof used the beach. Ölüdeniz(thelagoon)and Belcek packedby thetightly beltof hotels behind the travellers fondlyrecall ruined hasallbutbeen the foreground alongspitof beach. sandy in lutely opensea, beautiful:inthedistance come downfromthepine-cladhillsisabso- Thesceneasyou hidden fromtheopensea. it’sashelteredcal namesake. Rather, lagoon of Fethiye, of isnotdevoid life like itsbibli- Ölüdeniz (DeadSea ), about15kmsoutheast % ÖLÜDEN day forthree daysormore). hire outscooters for€14perday(or€11 costs about€5.55. the otogartopensionseastof thecentre €0.85 nomatter howfaryougo. from Ataxi west of thecentre. There’s afixed charge of The To yourleftasyouarrive, thebeach prom- The beach isvery much thecentre of things. A coupleof agencies Caddesi alongAtatürk Unfortunately the paradise thatmanypast Unfortunately theparadise 0252 hasaninformation boothon theaccess ı ı Ölüdeniz Tourism Development Co-operative Development Ölüdeniz Tourism z maydrawablank. z andtoÖlüdeniz,youwillfind a İ post, a PTT andtheentranceto post,aPTT Z ş tirme Kooperatifi; ı k and Hisarönü. Itthendes- k andHisarönü. ş % ı Caddesi tothe Caddesi 617 0438;Ölüdeniz WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Ölüdeniz WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN ı z (the

run and fun. With its own pleasant stripofrun andfun.Withitsownpleasant iswelldesigned, vated, theSugarBeach without bathroom€8; caravan €3.90;bungalowsperpersonwithbathroom€17-22, club.com; ÖlüdenizCaddesi20;campsiteperperson,carand and showers. It’sabout 600mfrom Ölüdeniz; thesunlounges, parasols it costs€2.20 touse you’re here notstaying butwantto hangout, king, beach parties,DJconcerts andBBQs.If include tree adorm,bike houses, hire, trek- butthey’refortable allspotless. Future plans range frombasictoair-conditioned andcom- beach barandagreat café.Thebungalows with lotsof shadedloungingareas, afunky beach shadedbypalms,it’sachilled outplace, bungalows orcabinstoo. tions currently inÖlüdeniz,butsomeoffer groundsareCamping theonlybudget op- Sleeping ence. Parasailing isalsopossible(€50). pilot hasappropriate qualificationsandexperi- Ensure thecompanyhasinsuranceand ence of thepilot(usuallyaround€78to€111). the reputation of thecompanyand theexperi- butpricesvarygreatlying flights, accordingto day, outtoRhodes. Butterfly ValleyBlue Lagoon, and,onaclear to 45minutes, withamazingviewsover the tional AirGameseach October. itnowhoststheInterna-paragliding. Indeed the doorstep, Ölüdenizistheperfect placefor With 1960m-high Da Baba PARAGLIDING around 5pm. leave fromthebeach around11amandreturn time forswimming.BoatstoButterfly Valley Valley (see p362 ) andStNicholas Island, with theBlueCave, Butterfly Beach, in Gemile take might (including lunch). Atypicalcruise the coast,charging about €14foradaytrip summer, Throughout boats outtoexploreset BOAT TRIPS paths, showers, toiletsandmakeshift cafés. soaring above laidoutwith you.Ithasbeen away afew hours onthebeach withmountains €1.40/0.55; The LAGOON Sights &Activities The descent from the mountain cantake up The descentfromthemountain Sugar BeachClub Various companiesoffer paraglid- tandem Ölüdeniz Tabiat Park h 8am-8pm) h

( % Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; isalovely placetowhile 617 0048;www.thesugarbeach (Ölüdeniz Caddesi;adult/student ı

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359 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN ὄὄὄὄὄ ὈὈὈὈὄὄὄὄὄ ὈὈὈὈὄὄὄὄὄ ὈὈὈὈ

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN stone chalets, somewithgoodviews. Way androomsare insimplebutspotless pointfortheLycian actsasastarting Sultan (2.5kmfromÖlüdeniz),the from Hisarönü down toÖlüdeniz,ontheleftasyoudescend .com; s/dinclbreakfast €14/28; Sultan Motel MIDRANGE &TOPEND Club. town centre, pasttheSugarBeach agencies.through Itliesaround1kmfromthe mostofand BBQs,though itsvisitors come pedalos (€5.55perhour)andhasbeach parties It alsorents (€2.75perhour)and outcanoes beach. placewithapleasant well maintained andacoupleoftable chairs! It’sawellrun, private a bathroomand even satellite TV, air-conditionedfortable caravans withfridge, This newplacerents out10smallbutcom- was like tobeacaravaner, here’s yourchance. season €20/33) -homes.com; ÖlüdenizCaddesi;s/dlowseason€17/28,high the camping. pass backandforthalongtheroadbeside follow thesignstoHotel Meri. Dolmu 360 To Kayaköy ÖLÜDENÎZ KÖRFEZI 1 3 2 ÖLÜDENÎZ &BELCEKIZ (ÖLÜDENÎZ BAY) Nicholas Genç Beach Nicholas Genç ua ec lb...... B1 Sugar BeachClub...... A1 Nicholas Genç Beach...... C3 Blue StarHotel...... SLEEPING C3 Paragliding Companies...... B2 Parkî...... Entrance toÖlüdenizTabiat C3 Boat Trips...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES C3 Co-operative...... Ölüdeniz TourismDevelopment INFORMATION ETR EIERNA • Öüei ••Ölüdeniz WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 6 MEDITERRANEAN SEA (LycianLodge; AC Ifyou’ve wondered ever whatit (AKDENÎZ)

% 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ( % as Ölüdeniz 616 6139;www.sultanmotel 617 0088;www.nicholas omšSad...... C3 Dolmuš Stand...... TRANSPORT C3 Help BeachLounge...... ENTERTAINMENT C3 C3 Oba Restaurant...... Grill...... Buzz BeachBar&Seafood EATING 7 Justoff theroad ) Tabiat Parkî

Ölüdeniz

Ölüdeniz Cad ş es 3 11 10 9 8 Jandarma cabin, therestaurant of theObaHostel has and have balconiesoverlooking thepool. not large, theroomsare andairy bright light, place is60mfromthebeach.they’re Though thistwo-star designed andwellmaintained, season; hotel.com; ÖlüdenizYolu;s€47-72,d€62-122dependingon homemade muesli with mountain yogurtand homemade muesliwithmountain European breakfasts (€2.75/€3.60)including great price. Italsodoes palatable Turkish/ a great reputation forhome-stylefoodata €3.60-15; Oba Restaurant Eating &Drinking crafts. attractively furnishedwithauthenticartsand agerie, andagourmetrestaurant. Roomsare views,threeboasts spectacular pools,amen- ina6-hectare garden,it is wellnamed.Set 2.5km fromthecentre, thisEden-like place just before you enter Ölüdenizvillage, around depending onseason; S oludeniz.com; Mimar Post 2

Paradise Garden Paradise Garden

To Butterfly Valley (10km) Blue StarHotel

(Belcekîz Plajî) (Belcekîz Belcekîz Beach Belcekîz 1 11 as h 10 8am-midnight May-Oct) (Lycian Lodge)(2.5km); 0.3miles 500m 0 0 9 ) (2km); SultanMotel To ParadiseGarden 4 Situated up the hill to the right Situated upthehilltoright Ovacîk (4.5km); Hisarönü (3km); (

Mimar Fethiye (15km)

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kak ( 617 0158; Mimar S 617 0158;Mimar ı ( % nan Caddesi8;s€22-39,d€28-47 % 617 0545;www.paradisegarden 617 0069;www.hotelbluestar Belcekîz ) Quite attractively Builtlike alog lonelyplanet.com ı nan Caddesi;mains Kidrak Faralya(6km); D Mosque Lokantasî (400m); To BeyazYunus Kabak (14km) h terrace with a beach bar right on the seafront terrace withabeach ontheseafront barright ing placeintown,thisfunkyjointhasalarge Likya Yolu;beer€2.75,fishper450g€22; beer €2.50; Sokak 1;beer€2,mains€4-14; Sokak gie dishes. full-on mains,themenualsooffers 12veg- fromsnacksto local pinehoney.Ranging Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com than Greek Muslims, manyof theTurkish there.Athens andfounded NeaLevissi Orthodox Christians,moved totheoutskirts of mostofThe peopleof whomwere Levissi, most OttomanChristiansmoving toGreece. Muslims comingfromGreece toTurkey and Turkey andGreece (see p41 ), with most Greek anexchange of populationsbetween pervised of of Independence. Nationssu- TheLeague after WWIandtheTurkishWar habitants byitsmostlyOttoman–Greekdeserted in- townofghost 2000 for Levissi Called much of itshistory,this % KAYAKÖY (KARMYLASSOS) 30to45minutes.they goevery Ovac through day (€1.65,25minutes, 15km),passing 10minutes every duringthe Ölüdeniz roughly leave minibuses Fethiye season, In high for Getting There&Away €5.55)isfrom6pmto8pm. (cocktails with comfycushioned benches. Happy ‘hour’ Help BeachLounge Entertainment town centre. It’s ontheFaralya roadabout 1kmfromthe Bar’–perfect forapre-dinner‘Sunset apéritif! red wine. Downsomesteps isadelightful withfeta, oroctopusslow-cookedstuffed in mezes(€7.75)suchite ascalamari seafood Samplesomeof theexquis- fish andseafood. isfamousforitsfresh ing thebay,Beyaz May–mid-Oct) outside. It’salsoavery popularnightspot. paragliders plopdownonthelandingpoint Atlunch timeyoucanwatchand seafood. the tokebabs,from pizzaandpasta filletsteak the waterfront, thisplaceoffers awidemenu bar noon-2ammid-Apr–Oct) Buzz Beach Bar & Seafood Grill Buzz BeachBar&Seafood 9am-7pm) As there were farmore OttomanGreeks Beyaz Yunus Lokantas 0252 h Set onastunningterrace overlook-Set , about5kmwestof was Hisarönü, 9am-4am May-Oct) ı k and Hisarönü; in low season inlowseason k andHisarönü; (SugarShack; stone houses With anicesituationon ı (WhiteDolphin;

restaurant 8am-midnight, The mosthappen- % h 617 0650; 1 Sokak; 617 0650;1Sokak;

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(admission €2.75; % 11am-midnight WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN •• Kayaköy (Karmylassos) ••Kayaköy WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN % 617 0526;1 617 0068; pool set inarathergrandwalledgarden,this pool set low season) plate €2.20,mains€6.70-11; ditional €2.80 in high season. ditional €2.80inhigh of therestaurant nextdoor. You’llpayanad- of Kaya. theswimmingpool Guestscanuse spacious andhomely;fourhave lovely views the Selçuk has the Selçuk are delicious. dinner, and thetraditional Turkish dishes placefor thisisadelightful old stonehouse, inashaded courtyardwithinabeautiful Set mealsaround€15; Mahallesi; .com; Keçiler reasonable. est localingredients. Pricesare extremely fering regional dishesmadewiththefresh- more interesting thanmostandsuperb,of- 300-year-old itsmenuisselect, stonehouse, this isareal find.Located inacharacterful Pension,road about100mbeyondtheSelçuk .com; s/d€8/14) hire. callfirst. Outof season, walking inthearea, aswellorganising bike ers, canalsooffer adviceandsketch mapson Atilla andJeanne, theDutch-Turkish own- rooms have balconiesoverlooking thegarden. place isfriendlyandwelcoming.Comfortable €25/33.50; Rhapsody Villa Sleeping &Eating floors.black-and-white pebblemosaic retain someof theirpainted decorationand and theTaxiarkis furtheruptheslope. Both Kataponagia inthelowerpartof thetown Without Wings latestde Bernieres’ blockbuster novel, spiration forEskibahçe,thevillage inLouis Recentlyitprovideddevelopment. thein- a historicmonument,safe fromunregulated clared Kayaköy (orKaya asit’scalledlocally) toitthattheMinistryofsaw Culture de- ish artistsandarchitects were alarmed and werelocal inhabitants delighted, butTurk- into aholidayvillage. Scentingmoney,the Kayaköy’s andturnthetown stonehouses companywanteddevelopment torestore has onlyahandfulof Turkishinhabitants. of populations. Kayaköy, asitiscallednow, towns were leftunoccupiedafter theexchange Sarniç Café &Restaurant Sarniç Café Kaya WineHouse Kaya Pension Selçuk Two With thetourismboomof the1980s,a h Atthefootof theruinsoffmain churches mid-Apr–Oct; mid-Apr–Oct; Set inflowerandveg gardens, Set ( % r . ooms thatare spotless,quite

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Birds 361 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN son €14,mattress onbeach withhalf-boardperperson€11). with half-boardperperson €17,tentwithhalf-boardperper- another 16 are planned. There are currently five bungalowsthough named In Butterfly Valley attheaptly youcanstay Sleeping be self-sufficient. fromtheworldandresidentsoff hadto side of Da Baba Until aroadwasbulldozed alongthesteep won’tsoonbeforgotten.across tothesea of theTurkishMediterranean –theviews coast, oneof stretches thelastundeveloped (12km away)ontheYedi Capes) Burun (Seven described on p78 . on astage of the Lycian Waywalk,which is ormostdangeroussteepest parts.Faralya is There are fixed ropesalongthepathin from thevalley,30to40minutes todescend. wrong turn.Itusuallytakes anhourtoascend Australian backpacker diedhere a after taking trail (indicated withpainted red dots)–an andkeepwear propershoes tothemarked side of thevalley.Ifyoutake this,besure to above (south) thecanyononright-hand tothevillage ofup acliff Faralya, onaterrace beach, and somelovely walks. waterfall (admission €1.25forday-trippers) a 2619; www.butterflyvalley.com) tiger butterfly, beautiful As wellasbeing home totheuniqueJersey BUTTERFLY VALLEY&FARALYA that takes twoto2½hours (8km). For awalk,trythevery pretty trailtoÖlüdeniz pineforestdownhill through fromHisarönü. behind Fethiye’s fortress. simplest isfollowingtheroadthatwindsup to 2½hours, dependingonyourroute. The costs €14. there 10minutesevery toÖlüdeniz.Ataxi (€1.40, 20mins)fromwhere go minibuses oryougotoHisaränü season, daily inhigh costs €14. Ataxi hourinlowseason. every September, frommid-Juneto minutes) half-hour every runtoFethiyeMinibuses (€1.65,20to30 Getting There&Away 362 Alternatively it’saboutaone-hourwalk You canalsowalkhere fromFethiye in1½ Faralya isthefirst village southof Ölüdeniz A rockypaththat’ssteep inplaceswinds To Ölüdeniz,twotothree run minibuses ETR EIERNA • BtefyVle aay Valley &Faralya ••Butterfly WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Butterfly Valley Butterfly ğ , thevillage waslargely cut ( % also boasts a 60m-high also boastsa60m-high Valley Butterfly 0538 5116454;bungalow (

% 614 knitting and podding peas. Though the eight theeight knitting andpoddingpeas.Though ladies foragossipontheattractive terrace, firm familyfeel, here youcanjointheold .natur-reisen.de; dperpersonwithhalf-board€43,ste€65; s/d €11/22; in tree houses (tentedin tree houses platforms) orinbasic George offers mattresses inthefamilyhouse, s available for€5.50to€8. of information.Home-cooked menusare set Mehmet speaksEnglish andisagoodsource and apretty terrace overlooking thevalley. andcheerful rooms, has fourwell-maintained .com; s/d€17/28) natural poolandtheviewsare ethereal. or hives! Ithasaspringwater sourceanda fresh fromthefamily’sorganic garden,cow cooking isdeliciousandingredients come price).Thehome bungalows (atthesame Ölüdeniz. first pensionyoucometoontheroadfrom can becooked upforyoufast(€7).It’sthe troutwhichley. Abubblingpondcontains some share averanda overlooking theval- rooms are simple,they’re very cleanand the valley. 30 minutes later. in Ölüdeniz they call in attheminibus stand Faralya andFethiye. Comingfrom Fethiye, (three inspring and twoinwinter) between daily (€2.20,25minutes, 8km) insummer to Butterfly Valley, there are sixminibuses at 10am,1pmand5pm. From Butterfly Valley toÖlüdeniz,theyleave May at11am,2pmand 6pm. toSeptember each way),which departsdailyfromÖlüdeniz –youcantake the‘waternight dolmu or –andparticularlyifyouwanttospendthe from Fethiye (see p355 ) orÖlüdeniz( p359 You caneithertake atourtoButterfly Valley ) Getting There&Away ately before theGül Pansiyon. small roadheadinguphilltotheleftimmedi- six courses fordinner. Tofindit,take the have kitchenettes. Thegourmetkitchen serves ‘suites’terraces. are Theseven spaciousand gorgeous viewsfromitsrestaurant andpool thatcommands mill boastsahillsidesetting Melisa Pansiyon Melisa The followingplacesare allinFaralya above Die Wassermühle House George Gül Pansiyon Besides therockypathconnectingFaralyaBesides ) This beautiful150-year-old formerwheat i ) NextdoortotheGül,Melisa Runbyacharming family,the

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( (The Watermill; (The % 642 1145;s/d€11/22) 642 1102;www.georgehouse.net; 642 1012;melisapan@hotmail lonelyplanet.com % 642 1245;www Withits ş ’ (€2.75 from eitherÖlüdenizorFaralya (€14).You Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com there’s aplatformed also nicely spread outfromoneanother and give glorious viewsover thebaybelow.They’re have littlecushioned ‘verandas’ delightful that spring water) platformsthat andpleasant natural swimmingpool(fed withmountain Halfway upthehill,FullMoonboastsa only fromMay toOctober. Most open from theTurkish‘woodhouse’). misleadingly called‘tree (translated houses’ board andisintented platformssometimes All accommodationinKabak includes half- Sleeping walk, describedon p78 . your luggage down. most of amuletocarry thecampswillsend 30m downfromtheminibusstop.However, minute walk fromFaralya, which beginsabout and almostallof theaccommodation isa25- for knuckle-whitening corners. Thebeach isasmemorable(Mt Baba) foritsviewsas ing roaddugintothesteep sideof Da Baba expats, trekkers Thetwist- andyogadevotees. of Faralya frequented by acuriousmixof Kabak, aremote beach community8kmsouth losttothepackage-holidaymakers,been try If youare of insearch theTurkey thathasn’t % KABAK asphalted yet. the roadissteep, twistingandnotquite fully can alsoget toFaralya byscooter, though If youmiss thebus, youcantake ataxi Full Moon Kabak of isonasection the Lycian Way

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€6-7; road 100m beyondMamma shemay (though (yogurt drink,€1.10). deliciously refreshing home-brewed dishes aswell Mamma’s offers acoupleof simple buthearty couple of simplerestaurants. stop (andtheendof themainroad)are a Lying atthetopof thevalley,neardolmu Eating views inTurkey! ginger plantsfordecoration,boastthebest rounding forest. Thetoilet,withferns and this characterful placehasviewsof thesur- American ChrisandhisTurkish girlfriend, from scratch andan‘ongoingproject’ for own tent/camptent/platformperperson€8/11/14) also take youtrekking. freshly baked bread daily.Metin, theson,can bathing pool,veg fromitsowngardenand family, itoffers 12platformsaswell a tiny platform perperson€17) ian) are good too. are welcometojoin.Meals (mainlyvegetar- courses are regularly held here, which guests of mellowloungingareas. Three-week yoga a tree growinginside!),lovely viewsandlots has platformswithindividuality(one place followingaholidayhere, theTuran a youngTurkish couplewhofell forthe s .com; platformwith/withoutbalcony€20/17; Mamma’s Restaurant Restaurant Mamma’s Sultan Camp Turan Camping Olive Garden Olive Reflections ) h Run bythedynamicEceandAhmet, mid-Apr–Oct) mid-Apr–Oct) ( %

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN tainlodge.co.uk; rperperson€20-31; Melahat (Mel) offers home-cooked menus set and there onaterrace withviews. apool set and homely(rates varyaccording tosize) like Roomsare anoldstonehouse. comfy is apeacefuland attractive placedesigned song, pool, lotsof areas shade, seating andbird- alltherock-cut tombs. want tosee to guideyou(foratip)–goodidea ifyou has manystonesarcophagi. The an ancient of thetheatre (asyousitinthecentre rows)is view of the thestage wallisgone.although There’s afine intact, tion, withmostof itsmarble seating from theticket kiosk.It’sinexcellentcondi- crude ladder. streambed, thenturningleftandclimbinga You canreach thetombbywalkingalonga of theheroridingPegasus, thewinged horse. into therockfacethathasafinebas-relief façadecarved lerophon, apseudo-temple familiar it,reached bynarrowpaths,Beneath are the place.but theLycianshadafortinsame isOttoman-erawork Whatyousee right. look forthefortress-topped ruins crop. As youclimbthewindingroadto onarockyout- high had adramaticsetting matched byits promontory: theancientcity ies inancientLycia, Tlos’ prominencewas As oneof cit- theoldestandmostimportant % TLOS Away underButterfly Valley &Faralya, p362 . ThereFor more Getting & informationsee There are fromFethiye minibuses toKabak. Getting There&Away person withhalf-board). away, ithasfourwoodencabins(€17per vegetable gardens.Ifyoucan’ttear yourself 15 hectares of fruittrees, olive groves and and manyingredients comefromhisfamily’s meal. It’srunbythefriendlyFatih, anex-chef, hillside platforms,it’sawonderfulplacefor andgorgeousful setting viewsfromthecosy swear it’sclosed!). 364 Set inapretty gardenwithastream,Set a One of themenatticket kioskwill offer The 0252 (admission €2.75/free Apr-Oct/Nov-Mar; (admission €2.75/free Apr-Oct/Nov-Mar; necropolis ETR EIERNA • To ••Tlos WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Mountain Lodge theatre rock-cut tombs rock-cut Lycian sarcophagus acropolis onthepathuptofortress is100mfurtheruptheroad

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for outdooractivitiesincluding canyoning. withgoodgrip. your ownshoes hired for€0.85, butyou’re better bringing off sometimes inthewater. canbe Plasticshoes the gorge proper,sometimeswalkinginmud, hanging ontoarope,andthencontinueinto trout. Fromthere youwadeacrosstheriver, above thewater, where youcanbuyandeat ofinto aseries woodenplatforms suspended boardwalk above theriver thatopens out water insummer. isicy-coldeven penetrate, sothe narrow thatthesundoesn’t The gorge and is18kmlongandsosteep h (adult/student €1.40/0.90highseason,free lowseason; will cometothespectacular Another 12kmafter toTlosyou theturn-off SAKLIKENT GORGE yellow ancientmonumentsignontheleft. Sakl From Fethiye, travel minibuses toSakl Getting There&Away village of Güne a sideroad;comingbyminibus,get offatthe andanother2kmup the roadtohighway (€11). Fromthetheatre, itlies2kmbackdown is half-board€5.55; €2.75, dmonplatformbyriver house withshared bathrooms/d€11/22,campingpertent Camp Gorge Across theriver fromthecarparkis Sleeping (€1.65) every 20minutes(€1.65) every viaGüne up theroadtoYaka Köyü. If youare driving,followthesignsto Guides canbehired andit’sagoodplace You approach thegorge alongawooden after bundlingthemintoadolmu lers headingtotheSakl (near thebazaar).They intercept travel- hanging aroundFethiye’s dolmu have reachedReports us recently oftouts SAKLIKENT’S SCAM to take youdirectlyto take to theCamp. and askthedriver oftheSakl Fethiye headstraightforthe dolmu to Fethiye. Toprevent this,uponarrivalat or Yuka Park before returning themagain the travellers toanexpensive restaurant 8am-8pm) ı kent fromKayadibi andwatch forthe ) , arusticbackpacker-oriented camp

cutintotheAkda ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % 659 0074; www.saklikentgorge.net; tree 659 0074;www.saklikentgorge.net; ş li, andwalkorhitch the2km ı kent Campkent and, ğ ı lar Mountains. lar Mountains. kent dolmu kent Sakl ş ş ı station kent Gorge Gorge kent ş station ş li (Tlos). h , take Sakl Jan-Nov; ı kent ı ş kent kent

(which includetransportanddrinks),includ- restaurant (fresh trout€4.45, little fridges, aswellanaturalpool,barand with basicbutcleantree thathave houses lonelyplanet.com (or King’s) Tombhasparticularly finere- Theone calledtheRoyal ruined city itself. hours.take Other several with and therockwalls toitsleftare honeycombed so worthwhile. of thatmakes theisolated setting thejourney impressive. splendour Instead it’sthesheer vast theactualruinsare notTurkey’s most thesiteies inancientLycia,butalthough is probably tiptheguardian. always open)isnoteasytofollow.Youshould good ideaasthepatharoundsite (which is and offer toshow youaroundtheruins–a spring. Theguardianwillprobably appear ing area andnearitacool,shady, refreshing nothing after that. There’s acaféatthefootof theslopeand to walkmake sure youstockuponwater first. 2km orsoare extremely Ifyoudecide steep. a sharpleftturntoclimbtheslope. Thelast than 3kmtothevillage of Minare, then takes fields andacrossirrigationchannels formore take youalltheway. walk tothesite orbargain withthedriver to ofyou atthestart the P fromFethiyebuses (€1.70,onehour)drop Infrequent6km upinthemountains. mini- the village of E Some 46kmsoutheastof Fethiye, nearthe PINARA Fethiye andSakl leaveMinibuses 15minutes every between Getting There&Away tours of Tlos(€8)andPatara (€8). (€28includinglunchsafaris andguide) king (€11,five hours). Alsooffered are jeep guide andequipment,halfaday), trek- minimum fourpeople),fishing (€8including six hours/one day/twodaysandonenight, hours), canyoning (€20/50/100fortripsof rafting (€11/25for45to60minutes/three ing tubing(€11perperson, 45to60minutes), P The sheer columnofThe sheer rockbehind thesite At thetopof theslopeisanopenpark- tobaccoandcorn The roadwindsthrough The campcanorganise various activities P ı nara was among the most important cit- nara wasamongthemostimportant ı rock-cut tombs rock-cut nara ruins ş en, is a turn-off (to the right) for en, isaturn-off (totheright) (admission €1.40) WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••P WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN ı kent (€2.75,45minutes). ; toreach anyof themwould ı nara roadand you can tombs , which lieanother köfte are withinthe €5.55). admission tickets willgreet you. 3.2km to aT-junction, turnleft,then right of Kumluova. go thehighway, off Turnright (southwest)sidenearthevillageright-hand Driving fromPatara, ison the theturn-off Getting There& Away Hellenistic how associated withwater. Nearbyis alarge is appropriate asworship of was some- Leto ently flooded(andinhabited byfrogs),which a bowandarrow.The of showingalyre Apollohasafinemosaic and to theAnatolianMotherGoddess. sible thattheshrinewasoriginallydedicated religious toworship sanctuary her. It’spos- Lycian citiesthenbuiltthisvery impressive the Lyciannationaldeity.Thefederation of spent much of thistimeinLycia,becoming try tocountry.Accordinglocalfolklore she spendaneternity wandering fromcoun- Leto wife Herapressed, Zeus’s commandedthat the motherof ApolloandArtemis. Unim- to legend, wasloved andbecame byZeus from alarge who,according shrinetoLeto, h is (p366), a Unesco-designated WorldHeritage site. Xanthos with which, Letoön, to road About 17kmsouthof theP LETOÖN of tombsfromtheRomanera. necropolis city. Inthevillage outskirtsyou’llfindthe corporate buildingmaterials fromtheancient Many of inthevillage the oldstonehouses in- acropolis Dodurga sitsinthecentre of thesite, withthe are someminor Lycianruins.Thevillage of 12kmto to theleftgoes Sidyma, where there About 4kmsouthof E S P badly ruined. and Athena(withheart-shapedcolumns)are its ies. P showingwalledcit- liefs, includingseveral middle) and Leto (on the right). TheTemple (ontheright). middle) andLeto side: toApollo(ontheleft),Artemis (inthe İ ı nara turn-off, hasafewnara turn-off, basicrestaurants. DYMA Letoön takes itsnameand importance Letoön When youget tothe The site consistsof three The village atE 8.30am-5pm) odeum ı nara’s andabadlydamaged , which hasaninteresting collection and theatre theatre a person selling soft aperson selling drinksand temples inexcellentcondition. ş isingoodcondition,but en, 3kmsoutheastof the of Apollo,Aphrodite nymphaeum ş en, a rough dirtroad en, arough ruins ı nara turn-off isthe temples theatre theatre

(admission €1.40; isperman- ı nara sideby above it.

365 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN face. St Luke oncechanged boatshere. times and becameareedy wetland. St Paul and the major portforeastern LyciaandtheE of Apollo,of which littleremains. Itwasonce Patara wasfamous foritstemple andoracle that, intolegend Claus.Before asSanta passed the 4th-centuryByzantinebishop wholater thewayitis. fully thismeansitwillstay on here. Transportcanbeirregular, sohope- range hotels, traditionalvillage life still goes there are plentyof pensionsandafew mid- beach some 50mwideand20kmlong.While a bonusintheformof awonderful white-sand ish andforeign eccentrics.Itsruinscomewith (Gelemi rambling scruffy, The slightly village of Patara % PATARA stop here ifyou ask. and Ka more attractive Xanthos wellworthseeing. French excavations inthe1950shave made todayare copiesofsee theoriginals.However, most of theinscriptionsanddecorations you in1842, carted totheBritishMuseum off the finestsculptures andinscriptionswere thetheatreYou’ll see withthe the citywasdestroyedbyitsowninhabitants. besieged byclearlysuperiorenemyforces, times,when of wars anddestruction.Several grandeur, Xanthoshadachequered history tombs Lycia, withafine 5pm) ruined cityof a river. Uptotheleftonarockoutcropis At K XANTHOS Kumluova. turn-off. outattheLetoön Get you’ll endupinthevillage’s mainsquare. turn tomato plants.Ifyoumiss thesecond and orchards, fullof andpastgreenhouses 1kmtothesite fertileproceed through fields after 100m(thisturn-off iseasytomiss) and 366 but the valley, but the harbour silted up in medieval valley, buttheharbour silted upinmedieval It’s ashort uphillwalktothesite. Forallits runfromFethiyeMinibuses viaE Minibuses runtoXanthosfromFethiyeMinibuses Patara wasthebirthplace of StNicholas, tofind Follow theroadroundtoright 0242 , once the capital andgrandestcityof, oncethecapital ı ETR EIERNA • Xnhs ••Xanthos WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN n withLycianinscriptions. ı ş k, 63kmfromFethiye, theroadcrosses acropolis ş , and some long-distance buses will buses , andsomelong-distance ) attractsaninteresting mixof Turk- Xanthos isbadlyruined.As manyof Lycian tombs Roman theatre

(admission €1.40; cut intotherock agora andpillar h opposite 8.30am- ş en to ş en which backs ontoasmallhill,forviewof tombs site witha arched gate day.Patara’s every ruinsincludeatriple- remember to wave tothemanatticket valid forover possiblylonger aweek, ifyou Admission totheruinsandbeach costs€8, RUINS Sights &Activities on forthebeach andruins. Patara; three-star Hotel go straight Beyhan up theothersidetomore pensionsandthe you tothevillage centre, across the valleyand atGoldenPensionA turntotheright takes a hillsideholdingvarioushotels andpensions. the beach fromthevillage. trundledownto and Octoberlocalminibuses June is afurther1kmpasttheruins.Between another 1.5kmtothePatara ruins.Thebeach fromhere it’s2kmtothevillageOvaköy; and The Patara isjusteastof turn-off thevillage of Orientation 50m of tothewater’s scorching edge, sand from thevillage dolmu runtothebeachminute walk,orminibuses side of thearchaeological zone. It’sabout a30- bushesalongthe western dunes andmimosa following thetrack,which headsforthesand atGolden Pensionor byturningright and there byfollowingtheroadpastruins, The beach issimplysplendid.Youcanget PATARA BEACH a are toapproach. Acrossthelake difficult is theswampygroundmaymeanthey although temples in themiddle. circular dations of a the wholesite. On top of thehillare thefoun- later, a Ephesus, butdon’tholdyourbreath. reconstruct torival theruinsintoaspectacle Theredevelopment. are ambitiousplansto tion order,which hasputastoptofurther withacourtdemoli- lage have served been granary There are other alsoseveral As youcomeintothevillage, onyourleftis You canclimbtothetopof the Be sure tobringfootwear forcrossingthe Be About 95of the110buildingsinvil- nearby.Nextare the anda basilica triumphal gate triumphal cistern . necropolis Temple ofAthena . , cutintotherockwithapillar Corinthian temple Corinthian containing several several containing attheentranceto ş stop(€0.55). andanunusual baths lonelyplanet.com bythelake, andmuch baths theatre , two Lycian , super-keen-to-please Kaz with groups, it lies off the main road,hasa with groups, itliesoff hung withtraditionalrugs,have lovely views .com; s/d€9.50/17.50,4-personapt€33; vides shadeandsustenance. There’s alsoa umbrella onthebeach for€2.75. few placestoescapethesun.Youcanrent an and alsosomethingforshelter asthere are Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com €14/22, 4-/6-person apt€33/67; owns atravel agency. boat trips(€17) including lunch, andalso (€14perday)oron can take guestscanoeing for apool.Arif,thevillage mayorand owner, it’s peacefulandprivate. There are alsoplans friendly familythat’snotovereager toplease, with balconies,apretty shaded terrace and a .com; s/d€14/20; for air-con. agoodbreakfast. Mrs Akaydoes orange trees. Youpayanextra€2.75perroom bedswithbalconiesoverlookingcomfortable littleroomsand pension haswell-maintained There’s afree shuttletothebeach. rooms withbalconiesoverlooking thegarden. with simple,sparklingandwell-maintained the roadintotown,Floweriswellnamed sion.com; s/d€10/17,2-/3-personapt€22/28; Dardanos Travel upthehill. the hills.Toget here, followtheroadpast roof terrace thatboasts360-degree of vistas theattractivefrom theirbalcony,asdoes .com; s/d€11/17; 2PensionZeybek Sleeping E canoeing trips(withBBQlunch €25)alongthe thePatarathrough dunes(€42)andfull-day h Dardanos Travel Tours andcampingfacilities. basic beach services the wayto Çaya toPatara,road fromthehighway asignpoints On thewestern sideof th ÇAYA for sea isprohibited.turtles. Camping beach atduskasit’sanestingground closes kebaps. selling The wooden shackonthesand ş en Stream, endingatPatara Beach. Mehmet Hotel Mehmet Golden Pension Akay Pension Akay Flower Pension thebeach, PataraBehind pro- Restaurant 9am-6pm) Ğ ZI BEACH fes trehu os-iig trips horse-riding three-hour offers a

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN acter includingcreaky floorboards,antique hasmuch atmospherestone house andchar- of townthis tranquilandcharming restored desi; dwith/withoutbreakfast €22/17) s/d €17/20; Altan Caddesi;s€14-25, d€22-33) furniture andwalls hungwithpictures painted Ş views. It’srunbythecharming Ahmetand balconieswithgood anddelightful curtains some witholdwoodenbeams,antique lace are simple,they’re spotless andcharming, roof terrace. It’salsocentrallylocated. looking therooftops the andmarina,asdoes spotless. Two,attic-like, have abalconyover- they’rerather Spartan, quite spaciousand Çelik Pansiyon BUDGET Sleeping (www.kalkan.org.tr) the busanddolmu outside. It’s upthehilldiagonallyopposite shop withtwocomputer terminals perched Caddesi; Hasan (alsocalled6Sokak). Caddesi Altan commercial area anddescendsthehillas a centralcarpark.Itthenenters themain municipalitybuildingandbanks,to the PTT, rank,with the roadzigzagsdownpastataxi down toabay.Cominginfromthehighway Kalkan isbuiltonasteep hillsidesloping Orientation &Information town. into aghost excellent restaurant scene. Inwinter itturns sions andhotels tosuitallbudgets, withan ent travellers there are someexcellentpen- for backpackers orlager lovers. Forindepend- itisnotahaventhemselves as‘comfortable’; of town. finally holidaycomplexes on the outskirts yacht marina, thensomemodernhotels and village withitsBohemian airsoonboasted a cheap, quietlife, thisperfect Mediterranean travellers of inthe1980ssearch thesimple, completely totourism.Discovered devoted by ing village calledKalamaki, Kalkan isnow itwasonceanOttoman-GreekAlthough fish- % KALKAN 368 ef Most visitors toKalkan woulddescribe Holiday Pension The local Türk Evi ı 0242 ka, whomake deliciousbreakfast jams. ETR EIERNA • Kla ••Kalkan WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN h a

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Near themosqueonroadtoharbour, Turkey hillsideonthewestern liesonasteep h 220; on thewaterfront, they’re agreat choice. Spacious,elegantlydecorated house. andright it offers justtworoomsinalovely oldstone the waterfront opposite theharbourentrance, .com; AtatürkCaddesi;d€36-50dependingonseason; and furniture. tractively decorated withtraditionaltouches a restaurant andlovely views, androomsat- roofthe Daphneboastsapleasant terrace with Caddesi;rfor2or3persons€45; hotmail.com; Kocakaya tours (youpayjustforthepetrol). manager, offersGerman guestsarchaeological Renate, the by €8perperson season. inhigh a large terrace, it’sagoodchoice. Pricesrise tothebeach, centralandwith views.Close sea Mediterranean blue,somewithbalconiesand roomsspongedcheerful andcomfortable the cornerfromDaphne,Zinbadhas 18;s/d€28/33; Mahallesi Zinbad Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND value. and roomsare beautifullyfurnished. It’sgreat terrace shadedbyvinesandoleandertrees, by enamoured guests.There’s alsoastepped Small but chicly decked downtothe outright €3-5,mains€9-11; starters from8pmto1am. Turkish musicnightly terrace isvery There’s pleasant. usuallylive theroofOttoman artefacts sheep, andstuffed manti food atvery prices.Thespecialityis palatable traditionalTurkish olive-oil press, itserves Belgin’s RESTAURANTS Eating fromKalkantaxi costsabout€3. hill. There’s A abathingplatformbythesea. suspendedontheedgespectacularly of the The poolsuite hasitsownswimmingpool, of windowsthatopenontoprivate terraces. tasteful. Allhave superbviewsfromthewalls terranean minimalistfashion,are unspeakably 13 rooms,allindividuallydesignedinMedi- side of Kalkan bay,about2kmfromtown.The Zeki’s Restaurant Restaurant Zeki’s Mahal Villa Patara StoneHouse Daphne Pansiyon 10am-midnight Apr-Oct) as (Turkishravioli, €6.65).Despite thefaux

( % ) Oneof themosteleganthotels in ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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9am- 369 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN dishes (€1.65to€2.50). breakfast goodveggie (€3.35),andalsodoes this isthelocalchoice. It’sagreat placefor long openinghours androck-bottom prices, for people-watching. a three-road junction,thisisa popularplace and cakes, manyof themitsowninventions, modest-looking cafémakes ethereal pastries €9) pleasing prices.OnMondayandThursday by long-term residents foritssuperbfishat h h with Fethiye (€3.35, 1½hours, 81km)and connect Kalkan minibuses season, In high Getting There& Away €2; are tourists. outside, oronthesmalldancefloor inside, 95%ofthough peoplesittingatthetables oldest barandstillitsmost‘happening’, beer €2; Moonlight Bar Drinking kebap (€3.85 to€5).Trythespeciality, delicious,upmarketdoes kebaps (€6)andpide clientele.Italian snack. Thepizzas(€3.50to€6) it alsomakes agreat choice forbrekkie ora juices (€1.95) almond macaroons(€1.40)!Withfresh fruit four pieces)andthelegendary coconutand such asthegorgeous chocolate baklava (€4for h smoothies (€2.50). (€1.70 to€2.80),aswellmilkshakes and that claimstooffer over 70varietiesof coffee Ali Baba CAFÉS &QUICKEATS homemade lemonade(€1.65)islegendary. from 8.30pmto10pmthere’s live jazz.Its Stone House €15; speciality, 370 famous hotchocolate fondant(€5.50). –orthe withawineandonionsauce served With tables onaterrace Withtables bytheharbour,it Merkez Cafe Merkez DelMar Café Fish Terrace Café YalCafé Korsan Kebap h 5am-midnight lowseason,24hrhighseason) 8am-1am May-Oct) 8am-1am) h ETR EIERNA • Aon akn ••AroundKalkan WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN madewithspicytender steak. 1pm-midnight May-Oct) 1pm-midnight May-Oct) h 9.30am-midnight)

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S n a ta MEDITERRANEAN SEA U C ly g ÿ a a (AKDENÎZ) u a d C Cad r M çe Sk ad u Gök m mb cu u C r ad o C i k s INFORMATION E 46 7 Bank...... 1 D2 Bougainville Travel...... 2 D2 Hospital...... 3 B3 lilar Cad Îbra S ukurbaÿ him Net-C@fé...... 4 D2 oko Ç S llu S eri k n Olympica...... (see 42) C A ad Post Office (PTT)...... 5 D2 t a t ÿ 32 Tourist O ice...... 6 D3 ü kurba r Çu k 43 1. k 4 S S ü Meltem Sk B u l 1 ş SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES e l y Sk Î m 5 lk Lycian Rock Tombs...... 7 E1 o a 22 k

n 11 2. Çukurbaÿ k u Merkez Süleyman Çavuš Camii....8 D3 Ç 36 S l 14 Öztürk Sk S a Sk i k Phellos Health Club...... 9 E3 v Ortaokul Sk z u Pazarî 23 2 r s Halk e Theatre...... 10 A2 Recep SkBilgin A 24 T 12 C rîs a an Amf d 41 37 S i Tiyatro Sk Belediye Zümrüt Sk k 10 13 Parkî Yeni 25 16 Cami Menteše Sk Topçu Yeni Ca lan 28 Sk mi Cad Veli Kap 26 To Kaš Camping (100m); 15 Sk 35 19 34 20 Akropol (4km); zî 42 31 6 ma

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Deniz Sk 18 is Meydanî Tomb 29

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Hotel Club Phellos...... (see 9) Hideaway Café & Bar...... 28 D3 S Hü k Marina küme t C Kale Otel...... 15 B3 Karavan...... 29 E3 SHOPPING ad Kale Pension...... 16 B3 Natur-el...... 30 D3 Efeoÿlu Spice, Herbs & Turkish 39

Kaš Otel...... 17 C3 Noel Baba Café Pastanesi...... 31 D3 Delights...... 41 D2 lonelyplanet.com Otel Sardunya...... 18 C3 Oba Restaurant...... 32 D2 Tombak Hediyelik Ešya...... 42 D3 White House Pension...... 19 C3 Sultan Garden Restaurant...... 33 E3 Uçarlar Manar...... 43 C2 Sympathy Restaurant...... 34 D3 Küçük Çakîl EATING TRANSPORT Plajî Bahçe Restaurant...... 20 E3 DRINKING Boat Trip Services...... 44 D3 45 Bi Lokma...... 21 E3 Denizalti Café Bar...... 35 D3 Boats to Meis...... 45 E4 To Büyük Çakîl Café Corner...... 22 D2 Harry's Bar...... 36 D2 Otogar...... 46 C1 MEDITERRANEAN SEA Beach (1.3km) (AKDENÎZ) Café Merhaba...... 23 D2 Hi-Jazz Bar...... 37 D2 Taxi Stand...... 47 D3 below forwhatisonoffer. fortravellers;see inorganisingactivities much experience English-Turkish touroperatorwithagoodreputation and Bougainville Travel Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com there’s abookexchange, andarelaxing roof to looklike bows!Allroomshave balconies, with personal touches such astowelsfolded spotless andhave lentalittlecharm been rooms are they’re rathersmallandSpartan, man Çavu the kitchen and internet. sometimes held.Guestsalsohave of free use roofwith apleasant terrace where BBQsare Ahmed andhisfamily,thisisafriendlyplace Amfi Tiyatro 3;s/d€11/12.50; Sokak draw isthelovely swimmingarea andbar. most popularplaceforcamping.Themain site 800mwest of the town,thishaslongbeen camp sites€11) Ka BUDGET Sleeping times international actsaswell. troupes fromaroundthecountryandsome- at theendof June. Itfeatures folk-dancing The annual Festivals &Events youbook,thecheaperpackage. activities according toclient’stime,interests andbudget.Themore packages’ know-how, itspecialisesin‘buildyourownactivity Turkish teamwhocombineTeutonic efficiencywithlocal 1; Sokak Ortaokul Olympica -turkey.com; -turkey.com; ş An Ate PADI open-watercoursecosts€340all-inclusive. Canoeing guides andlunch.Ask anyoftheagencieslisted ( p371 ) tobookyou onatrip. recommended cityaresunken (seetheboxed particularly text, p377 ). Allpricesincludetransfers, to bequalified) for€20/35 asingle/double. Bougainville Travel alsohires for€14 perdayandcanoes(thoughyou’llneed outmountain bikes Sea kayaking Scuba diving Paragliding Mountain biking Canyoning Ka ALIVE &KAYAKING INKA Camping ı ş Motel ş

Pension is agreat placefor adventure andactivities. The sea- daytripsover theKekovakayaking ş

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Situated onanattractive rocky €30perpersonfulldayonPatara River. three timesaweek. Scheduledtrips ( Ka ( 836 2049;www.olympicatravel.com; % % €50perpersonforfullday. h €100perperson.Flightslast20to30minutes dependingonweather.

ş ( for qualified divers, €30 per dive including all equipment. For beginners keen to qualify, a three-day toqualify,athree-day forqualifieddivers,€30perdiveincludingall equipment. Forbeginnerskeen LyciaFestival €30perpersonforfull day all-inclusive. 836 1050;Ya % 836 1791;www.motelani.com;Süley- 8.30am-5.30pm) RunbyanAustrian- ( % €36perpersonforfullday. 836 1393;www.atespension.com; 836 3737;www.bougainville ş ar Yazici Caddesi;2-person ai runsforthree days Ş ai

Wellrunby ) WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Ka WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN Though Though ) 15; s/d€28/34; terrace andswimmingplatform. the water. Justbelow,there’s asunbathing mulberry andorange trees afew metres from under where the road, breakfast isserved restaurant across and peacefulseashell-clad direct views.Thebigboonistheverdant sea spacious andallhave have balconies;eight modern white building,roomsare reasonably .com; NecipBeyCaddesi56;s/d€22/30.50; and amphitheatre, andapool. a roof viewsover terrace withsea thewater in goodorderandallhave abalcony.There’s so isquieter thanmany.Roomsare simplebut Hideaway islocated atthefarendof townand s€22,d€28-33; Sokak; Hideaway MIDRANGE balcony. race. Ask foroneof theatticroomswitha with attractive roomsandapretty littleter- and terracotta paint,thisisastylish littlegem Decked iron,marble outinwood,wrought hotmail.com; Yeni CamiCaddesi16;s/d€25/33; kayaking, divingandtripstoSakl guests 10%discountsonactivitiesincluding take place. Thetravel agency belowitoffers potted terrace where BBQs(€6.65)sometimes similar roomstotheAn by thefriendlySüleymanandfamily,itoffers Süleyman Çavu the kitchen. terrace withDVDplayer. Guestscanalsouse Otel Sardunya Otel HousePension White Pansiyon Hilal Ka ş Otel ( %

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( % One of thebestlocations, ( % as 836 1207; www.korsan-kas.com; 836 1207;www.korsan-kas.com; 836 3080;www.sardunyaotel ( % ı ) . Italsohasaplant- Aptlynamed,the 836 1513;fazisevenz@ a ai ı kent. h Set ina Set ) May-Sep) May-Sep) ş

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) 373 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN theatre, thiswell-runhotel offers simplebut is wellknown locallyandattracts aloyaland ing much isthisrestaurant. Specialisingin Gürsöy Sokak 11; meals€5-10) Gürsöy Sokak smoked aubergine purée)iswonderful. be brilliant best.Ifyouhaven’t yeteaten a chance Turkish cuisineatits tosample Natur-el andthe familywhorunitprovides downfromgeneration togeneration,passed With itsdishes cooked to old Ottomanrecipes delicious butnotatalldear. Trythe Anatolian-Ottoman cuisine,itsdishes are midnight) Caddesi; meze€1.65-3.35,mains€4.45-6.65; ably priced. pastries (€3.60).Thewinelistisalsoreason- €4.40) forwhich she’swellknownandMama’s traditional dishes including the harbour. Sabo(Mama) turnsoutgreat ing aroundaterraced gardenoverlooking midnight) Bi Lokma RESTAURANTS Ka Eating comfort. great pooloverlooking and three-star thesea eyesore sprawlingdownthehillside,it’sgota s/d/tr €50/65/85; value. backbutarebasic withviewsset stillgood water. Theroomsof thepensionare more you caneatitinthegardenoverlooking the cooks omelettes toorderinfrontof you),and Breakfast (thechef isanexcellentopenbuffet many withgorgeous viewsover thewater. furnished roomswithbalconies, pleasantly €39/56, s/dhotel€56/77; .com; Yeni s/dpension CamiCaddesi8;[email protected]; noisy asmany. viewsareThe sea great too or thebalconiesof simplerooms. theeight terracecan hearitlappingfromthepleasant you soclose above thesea’s right thewater: 374 varieties (€4.75)here. TheOttoman (Turkish ravioli), fromthethree thenchose (mother-in-law’s meatballs)for€3. ğ Kale Otel &Pension Otel Kale Sympathy Restaurant Sultan Garden Restaurant Sultan Garden ClubPhellos Hotel Natur-el ş end hasathrivingrestaurant scene. WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Ka WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ı Notyettried-and-tested butpromis- meander- TheBiLokamahastables (spicedlambcubes onabedof

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draw, ranging from casseroles (€5to€7)and draw, ranging fromcasseroles the range of foodatfeasible prices that’sthe Long loved bylocalsandtravellers alike, it’s meeting point.Withitsshadedterrace italso meeting yet notoverpriced, thisisafavourite local €2.20; CAFÉS appearance himself! whistling forEvy andusuallymakes anightly out for the beautifulandverdant courtyardandlisten such as French for aprivate yacht, this placeisunabashedly Frenchtaurant’s namesake, andex-headchef h paper (€8.35)hasreceived rave reviews. terrific range of mezes(€1.94).Thefishin excellent dishes atdecentprices,includinga ithasaprettysarcophagus, gardenandserves meals around€12; presentation. this placeiscreative inbothitscuisineand midnight) which are usuallysuperb. ciality (€10)butaskabout thedailyspecials, isthespe- withenticingsauces) steak (served peaceful terrace overlooking theharbour, fritters. regular following.Try thedeliciousaubergine magazines. stocks one-day-oldEuropeanandAmerican but it’stheatmosphere youcomefor. Italso not thecheapest place(slices€2.25to€2.50) confections cooked fromnaturalproducts.It’s in Ka April–Oct) 19; coffee €1.65-2.50; sun. makes awelcomeescapefromthemidday season, tomidnighthighseason) Meydan sandwich (€1.70)withcoffee orjuice. breakfast (€3.40)orasnacksuch asacrêpeor A great and inexpensive placeforaTurkish Mola Café sauce béarnaise Café Merhaba Café Restaurant Chez Evy Restaurant Bahçe Karavan Fes Restaurant Café Corner Café Pastanesi Noel BabaCafé 7pm-midnight mid-Apr–Oct) 7pm-midnight mid-Apr–Oct) h ş ı 1;beerorcappuccino€2,tea€0.60; ’, themellowMerhaba delicious sells Forsomethingalittledifferent, Ş haute cuisine Claimingtomake the‘bestcakes 10am-midnight Apr-Oct) gigot d’agneau

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3am Apr-Oct) packed withpeople–itwasKa of themainsquare theMavi’s permanently Well named,thisenchanting café-garden is desi 16/A;mealsaround€6-11; (€3). It’sagoodplaceforbreakfast (€3.60). (€3to€5)chips (€2)andomelettessalads lonelyplanet.com for adrink. There’s live (9pm music nightly andrather glamorousplace this isacivilised itsdécorandlighting, the Lyciansarcophagus, desi; currently. full-blown It’s nightclub. venue forlive music(10pmto2am)and place functionsasabar(7pmto 10pm), opened inalovely this oldstonehouse, outside.and hastables when wevisited. Itplaysagoodmixof music to 2am. there’sSeptember, live jazzdailyfrom10pm inside andout.Frommid-Junetotheendof tell, this isamellowlittlebarwithseating driverCity taxi whohasastoryortwoto May-Oct) Bar Hi-Jazz Drinking street. courtyardtuckedhas apleasant the awayoff pideandpopmusic,italso the affordable popular amongKa €2.50-3.35, pizza€3.85-5.55; beef köfte ish homecookingatitsbest.Trythespeciality, Hearty, andgreat tasty value,it’ssimpleTurk- cooked dailybyNuran,theowner’smother. trees, theObaoffers Turkish tasty dishes walledterracepleasant underbitter orange €2.75) €2.75-3.35,moussaka meze €1.95,köfte Oba Restaurant QUICK EATS truly magical. litupwithlanterns, Atnight, itseems buffet. On Sundaythere’s afabulouseat-all-you-can qualitylocalingredients.with thehighest Erdem, are proudof theirfresh fare allmade away fromit.Charmingowners, Nurand hidden fromthestreet andawholeworld Sun Café BarRestaurant Sun Café Bar Meis Çinarlar Mavi Bar Mavi &Bar Café Hideaway h güveç –oven-baked –orchicken orsautéd or 9am-3am) Run byY

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836 1165; Zümrüt Sokak 3; 836 1165;ZümrütSokak ( With its garden setting nextto Withitsgardensetting 836 2860; Mütfü Efendi Sokak 4;pide 836 2860;MütfüEfendi Sokak 836 1834; Mütfü Efendi Sokak; 836 1834;MütfüEfendi Sokak; % WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Ka WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN ı 836 1687; lmaz, aretired NewYork ş ’ young,whocomefor ( % h (

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newer blockof theEkinisbetter option, €11-22, d€19.50-28; rather Spartan anddusty. rather Spartan views.Theroomsintheoldwingareand sea views, andattractive roomswithbalconies with itspretty roof terrace withpanoramic Pension Hotel Ekin Sleeping summer.that isopeninhigh village centre, opposite aninformationbooth Kekova. an’s occasionalfurybyalongislandnamed entrance, shieldedfromtheMediterrane- Ölüdeniz) andsouthof that isthechannel city of Simena,which isaccessiblebyboat. leköy (Kale), avillage onthesite of theancient The village youenter isÜça Orientation &Information swimming here asit’snotoverly clean. butlocalsdon’trecommendalmost enclosed, Lycian tombs.Thelittlebayisshallow and covered hideaway’,withpricestomatch. Nowadays it’sbecominganupmarket ‘undis- onabayamidislandsandpeninsulas. setting and farmingvillage inanabsolutely idyllic served daily,the Kordonisconsidered the served race overlooking themarina, andfresh fish Apr–25 Oct) plate meze€3.90,fishper 500g€14; English manager. isthehelpful tobeaches. Louise boat service and comfycushioned benches. There’s afree a lovely veranda withviewsover thewater flowerpots. Roomsare andshare comfortable old stonebuildingwithaterrace dotted with waterfront, thisisapeacefulandhandsome .com; d€28-33; have views. fullsea shipshape byOnur’sDutch wife, Jacqueline, and alsoactasguide. Fourof therooms,kept born Onurcangive great trekking advice the beaches andabookexchange. Locally toreach internet access, afree boatservice Itofferscharm withattentive free service. above thiswell-runpension combines thesea, €17/22; Teimiussa. Acrossthewater totheeastisKa- Kordon Restaurant Onur Pension There’s groceriesinthe asmall shop selling Here andthere are remnants of ancient South of thevillages isaharbour(called Kekova Pension Kekova ai With anattractive andcoolter- Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ) Withapicturesque right setting a (

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN to afertile river much delta, of itcovered in carted StNicholas’ to Bari. bonesoff smashed in1087and open thesarcophagus it wasrestored merchants in 1043. Italian in 343.Itbecame aByzantinebasilicawhen remainsand heldthesaint’s after he died 5.30pm Nov-Apr) St Nicholas A blockwestof themainsquare, the CHURCH OFSTNICHOLAS Sights north isthehuge theotogar(100m). passes PTT. Thestreet goingsouthfromthesquare headseasttothe Caddesi) called Ortaokul tombs of Myra( right (also Caddesi ). PTT which leads2kmtotheLycianrock Caddesi, GoingnorthisAlakentNicholas Caddesi). (alsocalled St St Nicholas isMüzeCaddesi going westfromthesquare totheChurch of eral cheap hotels andrestaurants. Thestreet centre isthemainsquare, nearwhich are sev- Kale sprawlsover analluvialplain.Atthe Orientation &Information town’s coatof arms! and vegetables –there atomatoon the iseven intensive productionof greenhouse flowers wealth. Therich alluvialsoilsupportsthe siltingisthefoundationofsame thetown’s of theharbourledtoitsdecline. Todaythat Arab raidsinthe7thcenturyandsilting gious, commercialandadministrative town, on hisvoyage toRome. eral centuriesbefore that,StPaul stoppedhere being StNicholas of Clausfame).Sev- Santa tohaveenough itsownbishop (oneof them of Myraandbythe4thcenturywasimportant greenhouses, to Kale. Kale was theRomancity Ka Winding pastrocky,scrubbyterrain from % KALE (DEMRE) there. out what’scurrently infavour whenyouget offering similarfare forsimilarprices.Check a coupleof all restaurants ontheseafront, can eithereatatyourpensionorthere are the terrace) andisquiettranquil.You ily feel (complete withGrannysnoozing on The 200-year-old hasafirmfam- stonehouse 378 Looming above thetownonahilltopto Though Myrahadalonghistoryasreli-Though ş 0242 /pop14,560 , the road descends from the mountains , theroaddescendsfrommountains ETR EIERNA • Kl Dme (Demre) ••Kale WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN (admission €2.75; wasfirst builtinthe3rdcentury kale . h 8.30am-7pm May-Oct, to 8.30am-7pm May-Oct, Church of it’s interesting towatch theboatbuilders at ÇAYA fairly self-explanatory. takes onlyabout 20minutes andthesite is on atour,butthewalkfrommainsquare Myra. See p80 formore details. a popularplaceof pilgrimage. early bishopsandafter hisdeathMyrabecame the nearbyarea. StNicholas wasoneof Myra’s theatricalmaskslyingin carved cludes several well-preserved honeycomb of rock-hewn 8am-5.30pmNov-Apr) 7pm May-Oct, lie theruinsof About 2kminlandfromKale’s mainsquare MYRA lent itbyitsage andhistory. are interesting. Whatredeems itis thedignity mains of floors Byzantinefrescoes andmosaic there-is, atfirst, though adisappointment, theChurch ofMuseum), StNicholas atKale likemosaics much accommodation. Despite itsattractions, Kale have doesn’t Sleeping &Eating boattoÜça or ataxi work. Youcanusuallyfindanexcursion boat toreachbe difficult inwetweather. 139), tothesouthof thebeach access road,can great views.Someof thelandisswampy,so sea beachfront restaurant withdecentfoodand is littlemore thanadozenboatyardsand area which aroundthepresent settlement, the eastern Mediterranean and Rome. entrepôt route between for grainonthesea mans atatimewhentheportwasanimportant (Stream Mouth),called Andriake bytheRo- About 5kmwestof Kale’s centre is Çaya have (€5). totake ataxi from thecentre of Kale, butyou’ll probably designed toprotect itfromdeterioration. recent workby Turkish archaeologists was building avaulted ceilingandabelfry.More I of Russia in1862changed thechurch by A section ofA section theLycianWaywalkbeginsat Taxi drivers intownwilloffer totake you Besides theruinsand1km-long Besides The Occasional dolmu Not vastlike AyaSofya orbrilliantwith Restorations sponsored byTsar Nicholas Ğ granary ZI (ANDRIAKE) ruins Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com of theancienttowncover awide builtby Hadrian (finished inAD İ stanbul’s ChoraChurchstanbul’s (Kariye Greco-Roman theatre Greco-Roman Myra ğ

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fresh orange juice €0.85, pastries €1.40; fresh orangejuice€0.85,pastries terrace outside. are rathersmall.Ithasanenormousshaded hotel isconveniently located ifitsrooms even from theclocktoweroffmainsquare, the .com; MüzeCaddesi2;s/d€14/19.50; lonelyplanet.com mystery. We know that it was an important mystery. Weknow that itwasanimportant The early historyof Olympos is shrouded in Olympos NationalPark). Coastal Mountains (Bey within theglorious Beyda Olympos andthesite of theChimaera,allset beach,Adrasan andtotheruinsof ancient towards Çavu roads leadssoutheast Kumluca andTekirovaMidway between a % OLYMPOS, ÇIRALI&CHIMAERA Park 3km later youenter the panorama about28kmfromFinike. About withanespeciallygood into themountains Olympos/Ç lively market. Kumlucaisthe nearest townto greenhouses, worthvisitingonFridayforits rounded bycitrusorchards andplastic-roofed road transits past thelongbeach, 19kmfromFinike, the pebble ofEast and Finike skirtsasand thehighway F (€4.45, 2½tothree hours). hour,andtoAntalya one hour,45km)every anddolmu Buses Getting There&Away ice cream (€0.55perscoop). Fabulous forbreakfast orasnack.Italsodoes home-style dishesmadedaily. but spotlessplaceisalocalfavourite forits square infrontof theclocktower,thissimple €2.75; pide €1.40,köfte albeit notespeciallyclean-looking. andhasapool– enough sonal butcomfortable provincial three-star. It’srather‘70sandimper- thisstandard at thejunctionintotownstands .com; Finike Caddesi62;s/d€17/33; İ N Ş After Kumluca the highway windsbackup After Kumlucathehighway Akdeniz Restaurant Andriake Hotel Sabanc 0242 ahin Otel ahin (Beyda İ KE TOOLYMPOS beach ı

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that runs through arockygorge.that runsthrough Thestream from abeautifulbeach, alongsideastream pines), butalsoforitslocation,justinland flowering oleander,baytrees, wildfigsand and widelyscattered amongwildgrapevines, not justforitsruins(which are fragmentary aerial bombardment –mounting Pegasus, the killedthe monsterof by Lycia. Bellerophon ontheorders of King IobatesBellerophon the volcano. Chimaerawaskilled bythehero him alive underMtEtna,thereby creating himonfire set andburied ening thatZeus of Gaia,theearthgoddess; hewassofright- thefierceandmonstrous son Typhon, himself goat andpartdragon. to thebreath of amonster –partlion, extraordinaryflames peoples attributed these whyancient tosee legend andit’snotdifficult slopes of of MtOlympos.Thissite isthestuff fromcrevices ontherockyspontaneously the Chimaera isacluster of flamesthatblaze Also knownas Yanarta Chimaera fraternity. tive ifyou’ve hadyourfillof thebackpacker alterna-from Olympos,it’sanacceptable of pensions.Justdownthebeach high-quality ful beach backed withanarray bymountains, As Ölüdenizoncewas, Ç Ç hoursdaylight acustodiancollectsthefee. atourbusinsight. with never the songsof innumerable birds,isarare treat, along it,listening tothewindintrees and summerandaramble dries toarivuletinhigh abandoned. the site hadbeen of which stillremain) butbythe15thcentury builtfortresses alongthecoast(bits Rhodians the MiddleAges, theVenetians, and Genoese impoverishment. brought pirate attacks In AD, thingsimproved, butinthe3rdcentury the comingof theRomansin1stcentury With into adeclineinthe1stcenturyBC. cities,Olymposwent the otherLyciancoastal the earthnotfarfromcity.Alongwith maera, aneternal flamethatstillspringsfrom sprang fromreverence forthemysterious Chi- can), thegodof fire. Nodoubtthisveneration the Olympiansworshipped Hephaestus (Vul- Lycian city by the 2nd century BC andthat Lycian citybythe2ndcenturyBC ı ral In mythology,Chimaerawasthe son of The site isopenallthetimebutduring Olympos ı

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379 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN are are extra. Bathrooms generally shared, drinks fast anddinner intheprice, although to leave. atmosphere somellowyou maynotwant forestedin asteep valleyand,above all,an beach, interesting ruins,afabuloussetting move on.Regardless, thecampshave afine others feel they’re back atschool campand farlongerit andstay than they’danticipated, backpacker stopsinTurkey. Somepeople love ympos hasbecomeoneof themostpopular inarustictree-house campat Staying Ol- OLYMPOS Sleeping &Eating forest (bring atorch) tothesite. 30-minute the climbupadirttrackthrough to acarpark.Fromthere it’sanother20-to Chimaera untilyoureach avalleyandwalkup low theroadalonghillsidemarked for the a 7kmwalkfromOlympos.FromÇ to appreciate itinpeaceandquiet.It’sabout worth makingthejourneyinasmallergroup here foramodestfee butit’s intheevening, dark. Various pensionsinOlympos runtours the topof thehill.Thebesttimetovisitisafter main area and alessimpressive collectionat mariners.by coastal more vigorousandeasilyrecognised atnight ered again. Inancienttimestheywere much covering them,theywillreignite whenuncov- theflamescanbeextinguishedby Although somemethane. tocontain itisthought though The exactcompositionof thegasisunknown, bursts withtheair. intoflameuponcontact Chimaera’s mouth. winged horse, andpouringmolten leadinto 380 All thetree-house campsincludebreak- daysthereThese are 20or30flamesinthe fromtheearthand Today gasstillseeps Trekking Sea- kayaking Scuba diving Rock climbing Mountain biking Jeep safaris Chimaera FlameTours Canyoning ( YörükTop If allthatchillinggetstoomuch,Kadir’s Treehouse ( below ) hasan ACTIVE INOLYMPOS ot cruises Boat % WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Olympos,Ç WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 892 1316; €17,fivehours. Includes lunch. Full-day €28.Includeslunchattroutfarminmountains. trip Full-day €22.Includeslunchandtransport. trip Full-day trip €20. Minimum eight to 10 people. Includes snorkelling gearandlunch. Full-day eightto10people.Includessnorkelling €20.Minimum trip h €33fortwodives. Qualifieddiversonly.Full-day Includesallequipmentandlunch. trip. Half-day trip (noonto4pm)€17.Includeslunchonbeach. Half-day trip On theirnaturalwall,€14fortwoclimbs. 8.30am-7pm), €20forfourhours. €8 for three hours. Departures after dinnerat9pm. after €8forthree hours. Departures whichoffers (pricesare thefollowingactivities perperson): ı ral ı , fol- ı ral you comehere tochill. Inthewordsof the the shadesoonconfirms thelocallore: that travellers laidoutinhammockssnoozing in house €8/11,bungalows€14-17; ı treehouses.com; tree house€10,bungalowwith/withoutbath- the valleydowntoruins. where andhowyoueat. be vigilantinparticularabout when,what, camps’ capacityforproperwaste so disposal, the summerinparticular,canoverwhelm the fortunately thehuge numbers of visitors, over Every yearsometravellers windupill.Un- with personal here. hygienewhilestaying reception. havetree houses locks, sostore valuablesat room andsomehave air-conditioning. Few but manybungalowshave theirownbath- place’ and instead sells itself on tranquility, itself place’ and instead sells charming manager Meral, ‘It’s notaparty above ) offers arange of activities. is wellmanaged. It’sAdventure ( Centre see wall. Itveritably buzzeswithbackpackers, but andanewrock-climbing popular BullBar) 300. There are three bars (includingthevery moreand ever fun,withacapacitynowfor began itall,justgets larger, ever quirkier ever ai dm/tree house€8/11,bungalows€17; .kadirstreehouses.com; can beorganised fromhere. the bestdinnerinOlympos.Yacht tripstoKa are and thecampclaimstoserve comfortable reputations. andbungalows Thetree houses and theonlyreal rivaltoKadir regarding party people, thisisthebiggest campinOlympos room €17/14; &Chimaera Kadir’s Yörük Top Treehouse YörükTopTreehouse Kadir’s Türkmen Tree Houses Türkmen Tree A dozen orsocampslinethetrackalong Note thatit’sworthbeingextraattentive Ş aban ) Theoriginaltree-house campthat ( % ai 892 1265;www.sabanpansion.com;dm/tree Withacapacityforupto420 )

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İ lonelyplanet.com Airlines office, thenbecomes KenanAirlines office, Evren and Turkish westpastthe touristoffice goes huriyet Meydan of isCum- bastic equestrian statue Atatürk (clock tower).Thebroadplazawith thebom- which ismarked byanoldstone square, calledKale Kap is theYivli Minare. nearthemain Itstands cial centre of thecity. the ivy-decked Romanwalls,isthecommer- with Romanruins.AroundKaleiçi, beyond which features sprinkled Ottomanhouses the peacefulhistoricdistrictcalledKaleiçi, harbour, nowtheyacht marina. Arounditis At thecentre of thehistoriccityis Roman Orientation Hamido washeldforawhilebytheTurkish Antalya griponpower, the Mongolsbroke theSeljuk the Yivle Minare (Grooved Minaret). After a newversion of itsname,andalsosymbol, snatched thecityfromthemandgave Antalya inKonya Turksbased but in1207theSeljuk his honour. (now knownasHadrian’s Gate) wasbuiltin ited here inAD130anda triumphalarch became aRomancity.Emperor Hadrian vis- kingdom wasbequeathedtoRome,Attaleia after itsfounder.taleia WhenthePergamene thecitywasnamedAt- the 1stcenturyBC, prospering whiletheolderonesare dead. others thatoncelinedthiscoast,butitisstill period. As isnotasoldmany acity,Antalya datefrom Antalya, backtothePalaeolithic rain Cave (Karain Ma times. Theoldestartefacts, foundintheKa- This area inhabited sincetheearliest has been History Ottoman architecture.preserved tomans in1391. all such foreign holdings. by 1921 armies hadputanendto Atatürk’s toman Empire. in1918,but gotAntalya Italy stanbul orAnkara,lifestanbul here nonetheless From Kale Kap centrallandmark andsymbolAntalya’s The Byzantinestookover fromtheRomans IIofFounded byAttalus Pergamum in After WWItheAlliesdividedupOt- ğ ullari emirs. 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There’s asmallcafésellingicecream and ofEnglish-languagenovels,travelguidesand selection h Joy Bookstore BOOKSHOPS Information north of thecentre ontheD650Hwy. centre. otogar(Yeni Antalya Garaj) is4km aroundthecity traffic carries long-distance Kaz of smallbazaariseast pedestrian way.Antalya’s formerly Caddesi, Plaj metres andKonyaalt Museum totheAntalya Bulvar channels. fromclimate toTV site forvisitorswithinfooneverything with persistence if the shop appears to be closed. with persistenceiftheshopappearstobeclosed. oddhours. Knock keeps Özkurt, books. 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Atatürk Cad 7 1 latest restoration justfouryears ago. Abath, % and aerobicsstudiooffering different morn- taking thetramtoitsfinalstop(Müze),andtaking nearer beach culture headtothemuch amusement, centre. of Butforagooddose well-rounded swimming; it’sabout 12kmsoutheastof the Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com from 10.30am to11.30am. door. Yoga takes place on Thursdays only, schedule ispostedweekly outside thefront andartscrafts.A in groupmeditation daily,aswellclasses classes ing andevening The YOGA SCHOOLS&INSTRUCTION p396). water raftingintheKöprüluKanyon (see holic beverages are included. feast. Alsoaskifalco- three-course seafood a bigdifference and a asandwich between about lunch whencomparingprices;there’s beaches foraswim.It’sgoodideatoask ( p392 ), Gülfof islandsand some Antalya lunch) which visitstheLowerDüdenFalls (€35) tripsorasix-hourvoyage (€55with Ka Kemer, Olympos,Kale Phaselis, (Demre) and harbour in Kaleiçi. Sometripsgoasfar Excursion yachts BOAT &RAFTINGTRIPS bath here costs €6,or€18fortheworks. architecture.boasts 13th-centurySeljuk A 32; Sokak atmospheric isthe more€16, orit’s€5forabathonly.Slightly andasoapoilmassage cost a peeling, h % The 700-year-old HAMAMS Plaj to Lara park intheMiddleEast. sion €15; Aquapark Also 6kmsouthof isthe Antalya complete with slidesand,yes,live dolphins. land ing road. then walkingfurtherwestanddownthesnak- 244 5807;Hesapç Dolmu Continue westandyou’llcometothe Many travel agencies intownoffer white- ş 8am-midnight formen,8am-9pmwomen) 243 6175;cnrBal . Youcantake one-hour(€20)ortwo-hour

( Association forthe UnityofMankind Association % h h Konyaalt 249 0900;www.beachpark.com.tr)

( % ş 10am-6pm), 9am-11pm) es runfromFevzi ÇakmakCaddesi ı , passingtheaquapark(€0.50). 316 4400;DedemanHotel;LaraYolu;admis- (Map p386 ) tieupinthe Roman ı ı Sokak 7) Sokak Plaj ı k Pazar Bal said tobethelargestsaid water Sefa Hamam Sefa . Alsorestored recently, it ı ; it can be accessed by; itcanbeaccessed ı k Pazar ı Sokak &Pa Sokak is a yoga, meditation is ayoga,meditation ı Hamam Mp p8 Kocatepe p386; (Map

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Dedeman saw its saw Aqua- ties.com/lazerpension; 30;s/d€11/17; Tabakhane Sokak patio bar frequently fillsupafter dark,and dorm rooms here aren’t bunk-bed style,the a decidedlyhostel-like vibe. Otherplusses: this backpacker which standby, maintains massive rooftop patio are themain drawsat placeintown;cheapfortable rates andthe thecleanest ormostcom- Not necessarily pension.com; Zeytin Ç car hire are offered. restaurants. Competitive pricesontours and superior tomuch of whatyou’llfindinlocal available, andthehome-cooked mealsare price ranges. Free wireless internet access is clean, cosyroomsisavailable innumerous up withothertravellers, andawidevarietyof shaded courtyardisaperfect spotforhooking make athome. guestsfeel The comfortably outofthe placeconsistently goes itswayto the English-speakingfamilywhooperates destination inKaleiçi, andforgoodreason: the mostpopularbackpackers’Certainly out shower€11/14/19,s/dwith€14/22; Hesapç .sabahpansiyon.8m.com; Japanese backpackers. around theedges. It’sespeciallypopularwith someofthough theroomsare a bitshabby homely,al- outdoor gardeniscomfortably of thecheaper pensionsintown.Theshaded acrossthestreet thisisone Right fromSabah, street corners. to mostpensionsare posted inalleysandon navigate, signspointingtheway although leiçi’s windingstreets canbeconfusingto Gate andwalkalongHesapç To reach Kaleiçi, Hadrian’s pass through BUDGET life andsights. which toexplore restaurants, Antalya’s night- district which isalsotheperfect from base old townof Kaleiçi, analmostvehicle-free pensions andsmallhotels are foundinthe throughout the city,mostwelcoming optionsare sleeping Although scattered Sleeping or earlyOctober. .tursak.org.tr/indexen.php) Festival isfamousforits Antalya Festivals &Events Özmen Pansiyon Pansiyon Sabah Lazer Pension Lazer

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necropolis witha detourtothe full hour’swalkallthewayto southern lonelyplanet.com nearby to catch abitof shade. Next,pushonto the is anidealspottoexplore slowly, andinwhich leads tothe lower gymnasium walls andthecitygate before reaching the remainsleft, where of yousee thelowercity steep pathandglanceoccasionally toyour ple once theentranceto surfacewas ontheelevated park. Theportal conveniently located enough, withinthecar own water. nowhere tobuyrefreshments, sopackyour on ahotday,Termessos boilsover. There’s Alsokeep everything. inmindthat, plan tosee tofourhoursexplore; closer ifyou you need paths. Doallowaminimumof twohours to scrambling over rocksandupsteep loose to reach manypartsof thecityrequires much to-reach theatre, is absolutely majestic. Yet ined city,especiallythesomewhatdifficult- and itsfive large partitions.The upper agora Tomb of Alcetas TERMESSOS To Southern The first remains you’llcomeacrossare, and Necropolis Tomb Rock Corinthian (2km) Temple theatre Unidentified Hadrian Propyleum Hadrian Building Agora Sarcophagi Quarry quarry , which sitsinanabsolutely Heroon WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundAntalya WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN and Bouleuterion City Walls Upper Attalos Stoa andsome Colonnaded Street Artemis-Hadrian Temple & HadrianPropylaeum Termessian House colonnaded street Osbaras Temple of Zeus 0.1miles 0 0200 m Agora Upper Stoa Gymnasium Artemis-Hadrian Tem- Artemis-Hadrian . Next,followthe sarcophagi Theatre Cistern of Artemis Temple Upper Gate City Gymnasium Ro To Antalya ya (34km) l R upper agora oad Hadrian's , which Gate . It’sa

to have been tossed intermittentlyto have tossed fromthe been thatseem ing sceneof sarcophagi still-intact park. Viewedfromafar,it’saratherdisturb- very topof thevalley,3kmupfromcar here onyoumustexplore the ruinsonfoot. the largest flat spaceinthissteep valley.From the citywallsto loweragoraandcarpark, gates several in The roadwindsup through tinue another9km uptheroadtoruins. for theentrancetonationalpark. Con- markedon theright forKarian. About lookforaroad 25kmfromAntalya, marked forKorkuteli, DenizliandMu after about 11kmontoE87/D350,theroad turningleft way towardsBurdurandIsparta, bus totheentranceof GüllükDa cheaper optionistocatch aKorkuteli-bound Taxi tours costaround€35.A fromAntalya THERE&AWAYGETTING immediate area. andzoologyofwell asabout thebotany the bit of informationabout theruinedcity,as Flora &Fauna a which contains Museum, trance, which isalsowhere you’llfindthe parkadmissiona separate fee (€4)attheen- and endangered topay animals.You’llneed goldeneagles,andotherwild fallow deer, goats, 600m, keep alookoutformountain canyonwalls,someofthe steep as ashigh nice todrive Whilehikingthrough through. asking attheticket booth. Termessos cityplanmapsare available forthe tombs ofto encounter amagnificentset a leftandfollowthesigns),butcontinueon of Alcetas There atthenearby isn’tmuch tosee quakes andgrave robbers created themess. byangrygods.Inreality,mountainside earth- offer view. aratherpleasant disrepair, theTemple although does of Zeus south of it.Bothare inafairlysorry state of crumbled cautionwhenscramblingacrossthe but use temple toviewthecut-limestone thanitactuallyis.Returnfromthe closer remarkably rangeby amountain thatseems jaw-dropping localeatopapeak,surrounded up theTermessos roadandbackfor€10. Park where, waittorunyou insummer,taxis If you’re driving,leave bythehigh- Antalya The Just after theKarian road,lookontheleft The before returning tothecarpark.Free southern necropolis Güllük Da (headbacktothemainpath,take Temple ofArtemis ğ ı NationalPark ( mezarlik and isalsoquite Temple ofZeus bouleuterion ğ ı ) isatthe National rock-hewn rock-hewn 393 tomb ğ la.

WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN found inthecave. lection of animalbonesandteeth thatwere theatre Museum. Antalya atthe magnificent condition –canbeseen of uncoveredselection the statues –manyin ofa series excavations here in1947,anda Turkish archaeologists first began334 BC. town surrendered toAlexandertheGreat in undertheRomans; the and 3rdcenturiesBC, experienced itsGoldenAge duringthe2nd townsofimportant ancientPamphylia. Perge and 2kmnorthof Aksu,wasoneof themost sion €6; easily beexplored inan hour, Now littlemore thanaruinedsite thatcan Perge Yenikoy andKarain. the nextroadonleftmarked forYe left toKorkuteli, DenizliandMu passtheroadon to BurdurandIsparta, continue 3kmtoKarain. 4km. At8km,turnleft(there’s asign)and road forks;take eitherroad–theyrejoin at outside thenationalpark.After 1.4kmthe from Termessos, take theKarain roadjust bining thetwocostsaround€40.Descending and Karain tourcom- day;ataxi inthesame With yourowncaryoucanvisitTermessos Karain toreach isdifficult bypublictransport. THERE&AWAYGETTING central pillarof themaininnerroom. onthe mask of ahumanface,which iscarved rived, lookforthesomewhatdisturbingrelief tothecave.from themuseum Onceyou’ve ar- (admission €1, to theskullof achild. Anon-site found. Thelargest fragmentfoundbelonged Bone fragmentsof Neanderthal manwere also ofMuseum AnatolianCivilizationsinAnkara. andinthe archaeology museum in Antalya’s stone hand-axes andarrowheads,nowresides years. Much of whatwasdiscovered, including Mediterranean, theKarain Ma unusual localesinthisregion of theTurkish A simply astounding site andoneof themore Karain Cave 394 have continuouslyoccupiedfor25,000 been excavated thesite 1946and1973)to between Cave) byarchaeologists isbelieved (whofirst Expect tospendabout 15minutesExpect trekking Before approachingBefore thesite proper,the Coming from Antalya by car the highway bycarthehighway Coming fromAntalya ETR EIERNA • Aon nay ••AroundAntalya WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN h (capacity 15,000)and 9am-7.30pm) h 8am-6pm) , 15kmeastof Antalya hasaninteresting col- stadium ğ aras Perge ğ la, andtake ı museum (capacity (Karain

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r, ridge of theacropolishill.The ruins inthis thebrushto sible tofollowapaththrough which dates tothe2ndcenturyAD,it’spos- ning downthecentre. Fromthenymphaeum, and noticethenarrowconcave channel run- onnaded street.atthestreet, Lookclosely responsible forsupplyingwater tothecol- northern at thefantastic erect. impressive collectionof columnsstillstands off axis,toreach the theRomanGate,through which iscuriously tic gates conditions. Themassive have forsometimeduetounsafe closed been 12,000) appearalongtheaccessroad.Both 4 1 3 2 PERGE Stroll thelengthof thestreet, which ends 14 oonddSre..... A3 A3 Colonnaded Street...... B3 City Wall...... A3 Colonnaded Street...... Baths...... B3 Propylaeum &Southern Gate...... B3 Hellenistic Triumphal B4 Agora...... A4 Eastern Basilica...... B4 Southern Nyphaeum...... B4 Later CityGate...... A4 Tomb ofPlanciaMagna.... A4 Theatre...... Stadium...... A4 B4 Later SouthernCityWall.... Ticket Booth...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES are foundjustinsidethesite. Walk 4 13 A 16 To Highway(2km); 19 3 Aksu (2km) 18 2 11 15 14 13 12 11 10 colonnaded street 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 1 0 0 10 21 6 12 cooi...... B2 B3 Acropolis...... B2 Water Canal...... Nymphaeum...... A2 Northern A2 Colonnaded Street..... B3 Palaestra...... A3 Colonnaded Street..... A3 Northern Baths...... Northern Basilica...... nymphaeum Roman andHellinis- 9 5 lonelyplanet.com 22 8 20 17 B 0.1 miles , where an ; itwas 200 m 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 erally agreed tobethefineststructure of its the ancientcity’sawe-inspiring objectivewith onesolitary inmind:toview land below. here frominvaders after attacks ontheflat when manyof relocated thecity’sinhabitants part of thecitydate fromtheByzantineera, lonelyplanet.com of backtolife ruin foreons,wasbrought by were victorious. Greeks andthePersians inwhich theGreeks abattletook place here the between In 486BC the waybacktoHittite Empire (800BC). centuries AD,thehistoryof all thecitygoes Aspendos stretched onlyfromthe2nd to3rd the 13thcentury.Yet whiletheGoldenAge of Aurelius (AD161–80),andrestored during mans duringthereign of EmperorMarcus Roman theatre of theancientworld. type inallof Anatolia,andthebest-preserved Aspendos dent of archaeology, visitors largely journeyto With thepossibleexceptionof stu- theserious Aspendos further along. turn leftatafarm.Theruinsare visible1km 900m andbearleft,thenanother100m turn(unmarked);7.2km toanotherright go itisfurther: ‘Silyon 8km’onthehighway, your ownvehicle. Despite thesignsaying language. little-seen of ancientGreek, aunique exampleof this is aninscriptioninthePamphylian dialect on.Thegreatestit andpassed curiosityhere Unable totake thecity,conquerorleft Great inthe4thcenturyBC. camethrough Silyon, athrivingcitywhen Alexander the About 7kmeastof Perge are theremains of Silyon tourtoAspendostaxi for€50. 2km totheruins.YoucanincludePerge ina (20 to25minutes) orhitch theremaining forPerge,Aksu andtheturn-off thenwalk otogar. to Ridethe13kmeastfromAntalya in themorning. in adayifyou’re pressed fortime. Leave early eastwards toAspendos andSide,doingitall A visittoPerge canbeincluded inthetrip THERE&AWAYGETTING The theatre, which hadrested inastate The ruinsare toreach difficult without Dolmu The structure wasconstructed bytheRo-

(Belkis; admission €6, parking €2; admission€6,parking (Belkis; ş es leave forAksufromtheAntalya WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundAntalya WESTERNMEDITERRANEAN theatre h 8am-7pm) , gen- the way. for €45, perhaps stopping inPerge along tourfrom Antalya€6, oryoucantake ataxi will take youtothetheatre foranoutrageous the site. Taxis junction waiting atthehighway (45 minutes) orhitch theremaining 4kmto Aspendos turn-off, fromwhere youcanwalk following thesignstoAspendos. (north) alongthewestern bankof thecreek, humpbackbridge. Turnleft tice theoldSeljuk driving, goasfartheKöprüCreek, andno- Aspendos lies47kmeastof Ifyouare Antalya. THERE&AWAYGETTING (see and fromtheSidemuseum p399 ). fromtheoffice atthetheatreAntalya, inSide attheoffice neartothetouristoffice in bought from mid-JunetoearlyJuly.Tickets canbe & BalletFestival The internationally regarded FESTIVALS &EVENTS trail alongtheridge toreach them. they offer littletolookat.Followtheaqueduct agoraandbasilica,but and includeastadium, fine viewsof theaqueduct. follow theunpaved roadnorthfor1km modern village totheleftof it.Youcanalso the remains of thecity’s ‘Aqueduct’ forkinthetrailforagoodlookat land andtheTaurus Followthe Mountains. view of thetheatre, thesurrounding farm bushes, you’llberewarded withaphenomenal overgrownwilling tohackthrough thorn- on theleftmarked forTheatre Hill.Ifyou’re years ago. haveto theexperienceonemight had2000 live musichere mustberemarkably similar falls,theexperienceofnight listening to changes theatmosphere of once thestadium thatradicallyunique acousticsandlighting of theopportunity.Whatwithstadium’s happening atAspendos,event take advantage concerts andfolklore festivals today. even project) thetheatre continuestostage operas, with (somequestionedtheauthenticityof the that manypuristsweren’t entirely pleased ture Followingarestoration tonot be inuse. it toofineanexampleof historicalarchitec- of theregion intheearly1930s,hedeclared none otherthan Atatürk Afterhimself. atour Minibuses toManavgatMinibuses dropyouatthe The ruinsof theancientcityare extensive When leaving thetheatre, followthepath Should yourschedule allowavisittoany isheldintheRomantheatre aqueduct Aspendos Opera Aspendos andof the

395 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN WESTERN WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake a guide the KuyucukDa to MtBozburun(2504m)andotherpointsin can alsoarrange treks mountain forgroups hours down),forabout €11each way.They original Romanroad, abouttwohours up(1½ Köprülü Kanyon alongthe (Bridge Canyon) Villagers canguideyouon ACTIVITIES tobeacustomshouse. is thought along withitatowerandsmallbuildingthat into theByzantineera. ally tookholdof theterritory, which survived theRomanseventu- Nevertheless, simple task. and bridges, approaching undetected wasn’ta wall,anditssurroundingravines an enclosed of location, thecity’smountain-top Because madethesubjectsofnever anyother nation. weresacked byanyinvaderandtheSelgians the majority of wasnever itsexistence, Selge had somethingtodowiththefactthat,for population aslarge as20,000.Thismayhave onceboasted a its ruins,considerthatSelge is particularlypowerful. actingasabackdrop,thesetting Mountains village of Alt 2000 years. to forclose the bridge inservice hasbeen the KöprüIrma Roman bridge canyonwith spanningadeep where you’ll discover adramaticallyarched reached. been haseven Thisistown itself of Selge takes placeabout 12kmbefore the offered bya visittotheruinedRomancity Perhaps oneof themostexcitingsurprises Selge (Zerk)&KöprülüKanyon 396 © LonelyPlanetPublications As thevillage youwanderthrough and About 350mof thewallstillexists,and The ruinsof are Selge scattered aboutthe ETR EIERNA • Aon nay ••AroundAntalya WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN kat ı rc ı ı

nkaya, andwiththeTaurus (muleteer) and ğ ğ ı lar (Bridge River) atitsbase; ı (Kuyucuk Range), with (KuyucukRange), hikes yemekçi up from (cook) Pension, attheriver’s edge. About 11km rant &Pension andKanyon & Restaurant Restau- camp,Selge Oncu TurizmAirRaft bank, you’llpassMedraft OutdoorCamp, the Alt Alt about 4kmbefore thetownof Be alongthemainhighway. Antalya) 5km eastof theAspendos road(48kmeastof andKöprülüKanyonturn-off toSelge isabout alotmore time. The itdeserves a day,though intheevening. Antalya for Alt otogarinthemorning parts fromAntalya’s it independently,theonedailyminibusde- for about €30perperson. Ifyou’dratherdo cluded intours SideandAlanya fromAntalya, Köprülü Kanyon MilliPark THERE&AWAYGETTING swimming. to five-hour rideontheriver, plustimefor are about€20 to€25perperson forafour- ing trips Paul’s Trailare featured on p81 . theKöprülüKanyonwalk through onthe St offor about €60perday. Details athree-day village more ever through dramaticscenery. climbs 12kmfromthebridge tothe Selge) Alt on thewestern bankof theriver marked for canyon andthebridge. Theunpaved road Be Oluk bridge. from theturn-off isthegracefuloldOttoman road divides,withtheleftforkmarked for If instead youfollowtheroadthrough The roadispaved forthefirst 33km.Then, With yourownvehicle, youcanvisitinhalf Numerous agencies offer inAntalya ş ı ı konak, it’s6.5kmfromthatvillage tothe nkaya, the right forBe nkaya, theright nkaya or Zerk (theTurkishnamefor nkaya orZerk ı ı inthecanyon.Thebest-value deals nkaya (twohours, €6),returning to nkaya roadalongtheriver’s western ş konak. Ifyoutake ı and Selge are andSelge in- lonelyplanet.com ş konak, the raft-