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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Authorities at Last Awaken to the Importance Ofsensitive Development

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WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Authorities at Last Awaken to the Importance Ofsensitive Development © Lonely Planet Publications WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 332 Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN •• Muğla 333 Western MU ĞLA room containing traditional arts and crafts. %0252 / pop 49,000 The museum faces the beautiful Konakaltı If only all of Turkey’s provincial capitals were İskender Alper Kültür Merkezi, which houses a Mediterranean like Muğla, a compact, tree-lined city set in a community centre. rich agricultural valley that prides itself on The Vak ıflar Hamam (%214 2067; Mustafa Muğlalı having appointed Turkey’s first female vali Caddesi 1; bath/massage €5/14; h6am-midnight), built (governor). in 1344, has mixed bathing, though there’s a WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Drop your bags at the otogar and walk separate women’s area too. While the development – some would say destruction – of Turkey’s Western littoral is well around the historic quarter for a couple of documented, it doesn’t take much to discover what drew the developers here in the first hours – Muğla’s old Ottoman neighbour- Sleeping & Eating place. Just a step inland will take you tumbling back to the Turkey of the pre-’70s. From hoods, çay bahçesi (tea gardens) and markets Otel Tuncer (%214 8251; Saatlı Kule Altı, Kütüphane around a corner trots a dusky donkey chivvied on by its headscarfed owner, off to sell her are a breath of fresh air after the many con- Sokak 1; d €17) A long block northeast of the crete resorts. Kurşunlu Cami (follow the signs), the hotel half-dozen cheeses at the local market. has simple but clean and spacious rooms; four And even amid the highways, high-rises and discos, the beauty of the place still manages Orientation & Information have balconies. Muğla’s centre is Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the Hotel Petek (%214 1897; fax 214 3135; Marmaris to shimmer through. Marmaris is as shocking for the stunning beauty of its natural harbour traffic roundabout with the statue of Atatürk. Bulvarı 27; s/d €25/45) Though the three-star Pe- as it is for the concrete jungle engulfing its once-charming old town. Everything you are likely to need is within tek’s a bit characterless, it’s comfortable and walking distance: the otogar is 1km downhill professionally run. Named the ‘Turquoise Coast’ by early visitors, you can see why when skimming through (south), and the bazaar and historic quarter Muğla Lokantası (%212 3121; İsmet İnönü Cadessi the surf on board a gület – the region’s traditional wooden yacht. And most development 500m uphill (due north) along İsmet İnönü 51; mains €0.85-1.65; h6.30am-10pm) With a great has its upside, or so some would see it. The region has recently become something of a Caddesi. pick-and-point counter containing a deli- Mecca for activities and adventure. You can walk the beautiful Lycian Way, paraglide over The tourist office (%214 1261; fax 214 1244; Mar- cious selection of traditional Muğla dishes at maris Bulvarı 24/1) is 100m past the Hotel Petek rock-bottom prices, this place is permanently Ölüdeniz’s lovely lagoon, scuba dive at Kaş, or go canyoning at Saklıkent. in İl Turizm Müdürlüğü (Provincial Tourism packed. (%214 2234; Cumhuriyet Caddesi 22; Best of all is the region’s seamless mix of history and holiday. A stroll at midnight along Directorate), on the main road running east Doyum 98 (on the right as you face uphill) from Cum- h9am-11pm) Next door to the tourist office, a beach in Olympos or Patara will suddenly send you back thousands of years as you pass huriyet Meydanı. It has a useful map of the this new place has become a favourite locally a Lycian tomb or a tremendous Corinthian temple. And between the two extremes lie some town centre (free). for its delicious pides (€1.40 to €1.95) and quaint coastal towns still clinging to their origin al charm, such as Kalkan, Kekova, Kaş or köfte (grilled meatballs, €2.50). It has a few the very beautiful Kaleköy. There are signs too that things are a-changing as the region’s Sights & Activities tables outside. Go north along İsmet İnönü Caddesi from Muğla Belediyesi Kültür Evi (Muğla Culture House; authorities at last awaken to the importance of sensitive development. Cumhuriyet Meydanı to the Kurşunlu Cami, %212 8668; İsmet İnönü Caddesi 106; breakfast €1.65, which was built in 1494, repaired in 1853 and coffee €0.28; h8am-8.30pm) Recently opened by had a minaret and courtyard added in 1900. the municipality after restoration, this 200- Nearby is the Ulu Cami (1344), dating from the year-old house is a lovely place to come for HIGHLIGHTS time of the Menteşe emirs, although repairs breakfast or coffee. Peaceful and tranquil, Sea-kayak over the stunning sunken city of Üçağız (Kekova; p376 ) made in the 19th-century have rendered its it’s popular with the locals who read or play pre-Ottoman design almost unrecognisable. backgammon here. Prices are kept low by the Hire a scooter and hit the high roads and hidden coves of the Hisarönü Peninsula ( p342 ) Continue walking north into the bazaar, municipality. Marvel at the mythical flames of the its narrow lanes jammed with artisans’ shops Sanat Evi (%213 0220; Hekimbaşı Sokak 9; breakfast Chimaera ( p379 ) on a moonless, peopleless night and small local restaurants. Giant plane trees €2.75, mains €2-3.50, beer €2.20; h7am-2am) In a 150- Bargain for a boat and take a trip around add shade. Proceed up the hill to see Muğla’s year-old Ottoman house, this café is great for the islands off Fethiye ( p354 ) or Kaş Ottoman houses, many of them in good condi- a drink or bite to eat. At the back there’s a ( p371 ) tion. The winding alleys between whitewashed delightful shaded terrace beside a small pool Explore the Lycian ruins at Xanthos walls give it a classic Mediterranean ambience. that resonates with birdsong or the strains of ( p366 ), Kaunos ( p348 ) and Myra ( p378 ) Dalyan Centuries ago there was a small fortress at the classical Turkish music. The chef serves dif- Fethiye top of the hill, but not a stone remains now. ferent Muğla dishes daily. Take flight with a paraglider and soar Muğla’s museum (%214 4933; Eski Postahane Cad- Hisarönü Ölüdeniz Xanthos over the sea at Ölüdeniz ( p359 ) and Peninsula Chimaera desi; admission €1.10; h8am-noon & 1-5pm) is close Getting There & Away sample a section of the Lycian Way hike Patara Myra to the belediye (town hall) and contains a Muğla’s busy otogar runs services to all major Kaš Potter around the ruins of Patara ( p366 ) Üçaÿîz small but quite interesting collection of Greek destinations in the region. For points along the (Kekova) before plunging into the sea on its and Roman antiquities (with captions and Mediterranean coast east of Marmaris, you beautiful beach information panels in English) displayed in may have to take a bus to Marmaris first and rooms around a courtyard. There’s also a change there. Buses leave every half-hour (one WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 334 WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN •• Gökova (Akyaka) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN •• Marmaris 335 0 50 km WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN 0 30 miles Marmaris still has Turkey’s largest and most Güllük Çandîr modern yacht marina and is consequently the Leros Bayîr To Denizli (65km) Kremna Köprülü Turkbuku Muÿla Tefenni Kemer Yalîkavak Kocaaliler Rv Kanyon country’s busiest yacht-charter port; and the GREECE Kelekçi Kîzîlkaya National Park Gümüšlük Köyü Mumcular Beyaÿaç E87 bar district and harbour have a great range of Bodrum Aksu Selge Kalymnos Turgutreis Gökova Ula ran (Akyaka) River Gölhisar Altînkaya places to drink. Ören iver Çavdîr Sedir Nam R (Zerk) Köyceÿiz Söÿüt Korkuteli The rugged coastline around Marmaris Adasi Lake Güllük Daÿî Karain Kos Gulf of Gökova Gediz Beškonak To Mykonos Köyceÿiz Dalaman National Park Cave is an undiscovered gem – only 10km from Marmaris Sultaniya WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN Körmen Gölü Termessos Perge Silyon Rešadiye Hisarönü Ekincik Ortaca Marmaris’ bright lights, the deeply indented Peninsula Îçmeler Kaunos Ešen Aspendos Datça Dalyan Dalaman Arpacîk River ANTALYA Aksu GREECE Knidos Orhaniye Îztuzu Serik coastline holds bays of azure sea backed by Bozburun Turunç Beach Göcek Nisyros Palamutbükü Selimiye Seki Altînkum Tašaÿîl pine-covered mountains. When you need to Söÿüt Simi Hisarönü Küçük Kargî Elmalî Loryma Peninsula Kemer Beydaÿlarî Antalya Side (Symi) Sahil Beldibi escape, hire a car or motorcycle and cruise Fethiye Körfezi Kayaköy National Göynük around the rugged Reşadiye and Hisarönü Ölüdeniz Baba Daÿ Park (Mt Baba) Tlos er AEGEAN SEA Butterfly Valley Akdaÿlar Mountains iv Kemer Peninsulas. (EGE DENÎZÎ) Rhodes & Faralya Pînara Akcay Altînyaka ir R To Alanya Saklîkent Gorge k Ešen Tekirova Phaselis Kabak Rv Kînîk Xanthos Ala Chimaera Hasyurt Orientation Rhodes Letoön Bezirgan Kumluca Çîralî Ovaköy Finike The otogar is about 3km north of the town GREECE MEDITERRANEAN SEA Patara Kyaneai Olympos Kalkan Myra Beykonak Adrasan (AKDENÎZ) Kaš Kale centre. From there, dolmuşes run down the (Demre) Mavikent Cape wide Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvarı and deposit GREECE Kastellorizo Uçaÿîz To Kaš (Meis) (Kekova) Gelidonia arrivals at the Tansaş Shopping Centre, which is a useful landmark, as well as at the Siteler hour in low season) to Marmaris (€2.75, one Otel Yücelen (%243 5108; www.yucelen.com.tr; Getting There & Away dolmuş stop. hour, 55km), to Bodrum (€6.10, 2½ hours) s €42-83, d €56-111 depending on room & season; as) Minibuses run from Gökova to Muğla (€1.10, At the end of Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvarı, every half-hour (one an hour in low season). Large, well managed and well designed, the 30 minutes, 26km) every half-hour, and to marked by the obligatory Atatürk statue, Yeni Yücelen is not unlike an upmarket holiday Marmaris (€1.40, 30 minutes) twice a day in Kordon Caddesi veers left along the water- GÖKOVA (AKYAKA) camp.
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