September 2010 INSIDE THIS MONTH

The No.1 choice for global drinks buyers

ISC WINNERS THIS MONTH IT IS , RUM AND DESIGN & PACKAGING CIVB/A. Benoit CIVB/A. BORDEAUX The region looks to tomorrow Profile Illy Jaffar: Know what he does? brand activates Contents

Agile Media Ltd, Gateway Place, 42a East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS Direct Line: +44(0) 1293 590049 Fax: +44(0) 1293 474010 Global : 41 fact or fantasy n this month’s issue of Drinks International we look at the thorny issue of international wine brands. Do they truly exist and do Iwine drinkers want them? It is estimated that the likes of Jacob’s Creek, Hardy’s and Gallo represent a tiny 7% of overall wine sales. The top brands are believed to have a market share of approximately 60%. Consumers are assured, comforted by brands they know but do wine drinkers want and approve of a wine that is made on an industrial scale? For beer brands like Budweiser and Stella Artois and coffee brands such as Nescafé it isn’t an issue. But it is fair to say that wine is different. Rightly or wrongly, consumers have a notion that wine is still made by hand picking grapes, 20 36 putting the liquid into barrels, lovingly stirring the contents and waiting for nature to take its course. Frankly, who News 33 Bordeaux wine would want to disabuse them of the notion that wine is 05 Business News We all know 2009 has been hailed as one produced 100% naturally, made by lots of jolly people from 08 People and Events of the great vintages for the top growths the village? Thus representing a lifestyle they get a snapshot 10 Travel Retail but what about the bulk of Bordeaux of while on holiday. And, of course, wine is healthy... 12 What’s New wine? Andrew Catchpole assesses There are many high volume wine brands that are well made and represent the country and grape varieties they are Analysis 36 How to write a definitive book made in and from. Pernod’s Jacob’s Creek and Concha y 14 The Global Wine Market Dominic Roskrow is about to have a book Toro’s Casillero del Diablo, for example, regularly pick up Euromonitor’s Jermey Cunnington outlines on scotch published. He describes the birth plaudits from wine critics. As the international publication the major producers and brands pangs of creativity for global drinks buyers, it is a topic we will come back to. 16 Global Wine On a final note, I would like to pay a personal tribute to Andrew Catchpole asks major wine 38 Update my colleague, David Longfield who has left this venerable marketers: Can there be global wine Probably the most dynamic category in the title after eight years of unstinting loyal service. He vowed brands? drinks sector. Lucy Britner reports he’d never go back into retail but a well known figure 18 Profile: Illy Jaffar in the UK drinks trade, made him an offer he could not Lucy Britner catches up with Pernod 41 Update refuse. He will therefore attempt to practise some of what Ricard’s man on the ground The Mexican spirit is trying to grow up. he has been preaching down the years. His thoughtfulness, Christian Davis takes a parental view meticulousness matched with mild manner and even temper Features should stand him in good stead. We will miss him. 20 International Spirits Challenge 44 Zone Everyone on Drinks International wishes David all the best In this issue: Brandy, Rum and Design & Life behind bars for the future and he intends to maintain his links both with Packaging DI and with the International Spirits Challenge, so you, we, 31 Cream 46 Departure Zone haven’t necessarily seen the back of him yet! Jaq Bayles discerns a move to authentic, From beer goggles to and food 100% natural ingredients matching Christian Davis Editor

SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 3 News

First at C&C brands Languedoc creates irst Drinks is taking over the Fdistribution of Dew , Carolans cream new quality tiers and Irish Mist whiskey liqueur in the UK. This move follows the acquisition by William Grant & Sons, First Drinks’ parent company, of the C&C Group’s spirits and liqueurs business last Corbieres: One of the new month. Grand Vins du Languedoc First Drinks managing director, Chris Mason, said: “As part of he Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc June 25. The AOC Languedoc ‘pyramid’ upon which the William Grant & Sons, it makes sense (CIVL), has confirmed a new hierarchy for tiers stand, was introduced in 2007. for us to assume control of these TLanguedoc appellations. Jérôme Villaret, CIVL executive officer, said: “This will brands in the UK.” The new tiers are ‘Grands Vins du Languedoc’, which mould the future of the Languedoc region for the next 15 Maxxium UK, the sales comprises: Minervois, Corbières, Saint Chinian, Limoux years.” and distribution alliance for Sparkling , Malepère, Faugères, Cabardès, Muscats The CIVL also approved a plan of action based on the Edrington Group and and part of the Terroirs des Coteaux du Languedoc technical, economic and marketing strategies, which will Beam Global Spirits & Wine including Picpoul de Pinet and the ‘Grands Crus du make up the framework of its activities for the coming Inc, will cease to distribute Languedoc’ which consists of: Minervois La Livinière, years. The plan includes measures to control the quality and the former C&C brands Corbières Boutenac, Saint Chinian Roquebrun, Terrasses the quantity of Languedoc wines, plans to help wineries from September. du Larzac, Grès de Montpellier, Pic Saint Loup, Pézenas, La manage their production and sales strategies, as well as Maxxium UK Clape and still wines from Limoux. promotional programmes to energise sales. managing director The CIVL states that each category is determined CIVL president Frédéric Jeanjean said of the plans to raise Huw Pennell said: “It by its economic value and strict appellation rules and the profile of quality wines from the region, that they hoped was inevitable that requirements must be respected. The new tiers were to “transform the Languedoc into a profitable, quality at some point these confirmed at the generic body’s annual general meeting on wine‐making region”. brands would move to First Drinks, but it now enables us to give greater focus to Beam makes a mark with Maker’s Mark our own premium eam Global Spirits ambassadors will conduct portfolio strategy.” Tripping out with the B& Wine is to push tastings and share the premium bourbon its Maker’s Mark brand history and heritage of the thanks to Beam Global in travel retail. A new brand. Interactive cork campaign, created to As further evidence of enhance the travel the increased momentum Love Natural Cork, part of the experience, aims to behind the channel, Maker’s I Portuguese Cork Producers’ raise awareness for Mark is to be listed on all (Apcor) campaign to get consumers Maker’s Mark among 150 British Airways long to re-assess traditional cork passengers and encompass haul routes from September, wine closures as environmentally advertising, in-store on 223 planes. Support friendly, is involved in what is education, secondary will be provided through being hailed as ‘the biggest garden displays and exclusive bespoke advertising in High party has ever seen’. travel retail gift packs. Life magazine. The ‘Garden Party to Make a Launching this month, Beam Global Spirits & Difference’ will be hosted by Prince the activity forms part of Wine director for European Charles in the gardens of Clarence, a longer term strategy and travel retail, Gareth Brown, Lancaster and Marlborough houses on will be present in major said: “Travel retail plays the Mall in London. European and US airport an important role in our It is part of his new initiative, ‘Start hubs, including London, international expansion to do something positive’ (about Munich, Moscow, Paris, plans for Maker’s Mark.” the environment), which runs until New York, Los Angeles, San Maker’s Mark is September 19. Francisco and Washington. distributed via Maxxium Apcor is putting on some ‘interactive In-store brand Travel Retail. sculpture’ as its contribution.

SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 5 News

K-based Berry Bros. & Rudd Spirits has announced that it has formed a strategic partnership with San Berrys and Anchor UFrancisco-based Anchor Brewers & Distillers. The alliance that includes Anchor Distilling and Preiss Imports within its spirits division is said to fit with Berry’s form alliance strategy to focus on its premium spirits brands following the sale of the blended scotch brand Cutty Sark to the Edrington Group earlier this year. Berrys’ off beat Jeremy Parsons, BBRS chief executive said: “By aligning advertising for its nascent with Anchor Brewers & Distillers we’ve found the ideal Kings Ginger brand partner to share our new spirits brands within the US market. This is particularly important for brands, such as No. 3 London Dry Gin and King’s Ginger Liqueur, which require real care and focus in the early years. This investment will enable Berry Bros. & Rudd Spirits to grow our premium spirits brands and, ultimately, to connect with a rapidly growing audience with a demonstrated affinity for our hand-crafted spirits.” Berry Bros. & Rudd products already available in the US will continue to be marketed and distributed by those contracted companies. Gruppo shows growth Moscow ban ruppo Campari across key brand and Sales of spirits (76.9% of grew by 2.2% in its home Ghas unveiled robust market combinations”, the total sales) grew by 24% territory (Italy is 39.6% of odka sales in Moscow are results for the first half of consolidation of the Wild while wine (11.5% of total total group sales). Europe, V to be banned between 10pm 2010 with sales up 16.7% Turkey bourbon acquisition sales) fell by 1.3%. Campari excluding Italy, increased by and 10am, according to various to €515.7 million and net and an “easy comparison” was up 10% (at constant nearly 12%; the Americas reports. profits up 15% to€69.3m. with the same period last exchange rates) and Aperol (34% of total sales) by 46% From September 1, it will be illegal The company says it year, which was in the up 34%. Cinzano sparkling (Brazil; organic sales grew for off-trade outlets to sell vodka benefited from “very good throes of the credit crunch wines increased by 3.8% by 61.3%) and the rest of between 10pm and 10am. consumption momentum and destocking in the trade. and the by 5.2% the world (including duty According to an article in British at constant exchange free which accounts for newspaper the Telegraph, the move rates. 5.4% of total sales) grew will replace the current rules whereby As to regions, it by 9.6%. certain permit holders can sell vodka around the clock. In January, the country placed a minimum price on vodka. The cheapest bottle on sale is now 89 roubles ($3;£1.80) for half a litre. A study published by the respected medical journal The Lancet, in June 2009, reported that alcohol addiction accounted for more than half of all deaths among 15 to 54 year old Russians, during specific years.

The Wine and Spirits Gemini Spirits & Wine is New Zealand-based Constellation Trade Association has to distribute Coole Swan ready-to-serve Europe’s Banrock Station Top 5 stories announced the speakers for in the US. company VnC is to launch brand has launched special its annual conference, held Imported from , in the UK. The company has edition wines to help the on drinksint.com in London, on September Coole Swan was launched signed a distribution deal British bee population. Five 1. Berrys partnership with Anchor 14. There is a special session in the US in 2007. with Whyte & Mackay to pence from every bottle 2. New Zealand go to UK on the travel retail/duty free Gemini is a wholly launch its Pacific Mai Tai, of Shiraz rosé, Semillon/ 3. Languedoc new appellations sector. owned subsidiary of the Strawberry , Mojito Sauvignon Blanc and 4. WSET appoints new sales director Sazerac company and is and . Cabernet Sauvignon sold in 5. Coole Swan changes distro headquartered in Chicago, The Co-op stores will go to Illinois. the campaign.  6 Drinks International drinksint.com SEPTEMBER 2010 People

Appointments Miami Wine Fair Bacardi Limited has appointed Stefan Brothers Brandy, Burnett’s Vodka and be responsible for driving sales and October 14-17 Bomhard to the role of regional Hpnotiq Liqueur, and, according to the marketing in the UK and the Republic of Miami Beach Convention president of Europe, Middle East and company, “has leveraged strong sales Ireland. He will also be developing the Center, Florida Africa (EMEA). He is to be responsible growth to become the nation’s seventh company’s agency business. miamiwinefair.com for this area’s commercial operations. largest spirits supplier”. Bill Breen announced his plans to Bomhard joins Bacardi from Kraft Rubinstein joins Heaven Hill after retire in June, after eight years as MD TFWA World Foods where he was president for 13 years with Sidney Frank Importing at Grupo Codorníu UK and 40 years in Exhibition Kraft’s European coffee business, Company as director of sales analysis and the wine industry. His next role will be October 17-20 based in Zurich. He will join Bacardi on planning. as chairman of the wine and spirit trade Cannes, France October 1 and will be based in Geneva, charity, The Benevolent. tfwa.com Switzerland. Bomhard will also be a Louis Latour Agencies member of the Bacardi Leadership has announced the Bibendum has recruited SIAL Team. appointment of Quentin former IPBartenders October 17-21 Prior to the takeover of Cadbury by Jones as prestige owner Paul McFadyen Paris, France Kraft Foods in spring 2010, Bomhard account manager in as spirits brands sial.fr was chief commercial officer for Central London. Quentin manager. Cadbury, with worldwide responsibility has almost 10 years McFayden will focus Mondial de la Bière for the marketing, category and sales experience in the wine Quentin Jones on building awareness October 22-24 functions of the chocolate, gum and trade having started with Majestic Wines and sales of Bibendum’s Paul McFadyen Strasbourg, Alsace candy brands. Bomhard succeeds and then Heritage Wine before moving spirits. Spirits brands include Los festivalmondialbiere.qc.ca Robert Furniss-Roe, who assumed to Matthew Clark where he was most Valientes and Plantation Rums, El interim responsibility for Europe, recently wine development specialist for Tesoro Tequila and Pierre Ferrand Megavino & Middle East & Africa as regional London. . McFayden will have an active Megaspirits president in May 2010 in addition to sales and training role in the on-trade October 22-25 his duties as Bacardi Limited vice Grupo Codorníu UK has whilst taking on responsibility for the Brussels, Belgium president of corporate planning and appointed Nick Mantella development of all Bibendum agency megavino.be communications. as managing director, spirits brands in the UK market. following the retirement Wine for Asia Heaven Hill Distilleries of previous MD, Bill The Wine & Spirit October 28-29 has appointed Robert F. Breen. Education Trust has Singapore, Sands Expo Rubinstein to the newly Mantella, who has been appointed Graham Cox Center created role of national with the company for Nick Mantella as UK sales director. wineforasia.com sales operations eight years, originally joined Codorníu UK Cox will join WSET on manager. He is to as sales manager when it was first set up September 27. Hong Kong Int. W&S report to and work with by Breen in 2002. Prior to this, he was at Cox has nearly twenty Fair Heaven Hill director of Robert F. Southcorp/Rosemount for three years, years experience in the Graham Cox November 4-6 Rubinstein North American sales where he was responsible for on-trade wine and spirit industry, with his most HK Convention Centre Steve Feller to “optimise the company’s and agency business. He also spent 15 recent position being sales & marketing hkwinefair.hktdc.com growing sales infrastructure”. years at Oddbins leaving as a divisional director for HBJ (Hayman Barwell Heaven Hill produces brands such manager. Jones) until the company’s takeover by Wine4Trade as Evan Williams Bourbon, Christian As managing director, Mantella will Coe’s in 2009. November 8 Cologne, Germany wine4trade.fr Editor Christian Davis Advertisement Manager Justin Smith Accounts Annette O’Connell +44 (0)1293 590047 +44 (0)1293 590041 +44 (0)1293 590051 Brau Beviale [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] November 10-12 News & Website Editor Lucy Britner Senior Sales Executive Publisher Nuremberg, Germany +44 (0)1293 590046 Carmen Poel Francesch Russell Dodd brau-beviale.de [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590042 [email protected] +44 (0)1293 590052 Travel Retail Correspondent Sales Executive Renata Stefanovic [email protected] Forum Vini Joe Bates +44 (0)1293 590043 November 12-14 Production Editor Jaq Bayles [email protected] Munich, Germany +44 (0)1293 590048 Events Admin +44 (0)1293 590050 forum-vini.de [email protected] Monica Tapias/Nikayla Langley Designer Neal Honney [email protected] Enoexpo Event Sales Executive Jo Morley November 17-19 Drinks International, Gateway Place, +44 (0)1293 590044 Krakow, Poland 42a East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS [email protected] United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1293 590040 enoexpo.krakow.pl

8 Drinks International drinksint.com september 2010 Travel Retail

DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE

Photo: Austrian Airlines Arran Single Malt In Brief Jameson Irish whiskey ✈ ran a temporary shop plans expansion at Dublin airport’s Terminal 1 last month in conjunction Independent Scottish had a 1-litre version of its 10 Year with Time out Travel Guide. The ‘Experience Our World’  whisky distiller Arran Old Arran whisky listed at World pop-up shop featured Single Malt is looking to build a Duty Free (WDF) for eight years. a touch screen, which Austrian presence in the international duty- The company is about to introduce passengers could use to free market. a new 1-litre gift canister for this access Time Out guides to bars, restaurants and clubs Airlines tops Based on the picturesque Isle product in an effort to improve in 21 cities worldwide. competition of Arran, which is located off shelf standout. Product information on the the west coast of Scotland, the Arran Single Malt managing entire Jameson range was S-based consumer magazine distillery has been producing director Euan Mitchell said: “We also available. U Global Traveler has unpeated, non chill-filtered now want to build up our travel- announced that Austrian Airlines whisky since 1995. The retail business [outside the UK] is the overall winner of its sixth company, which is set to and get to know the main travel- annual Wines on the Wing launch five new retail players. We are working on competition. this year, distributes its a couple of [travel-retail] exclusive In total 26 airlines entered whiskies worldwide. After products, which we hope to the event, submitting five wines an improved financial introduce next year.” each— two red, two white and performance in 2009 Possible target travel-retail one sparkling wine. It is the first the company recently markets for Arran Single Malt time the Austrian flag carrier has announced plans to double include Scandinavia, mainland sales at Bahrain won the competition. its production. Europe, Hong Kong, Taiwan and ✈ Duty Free rose 5.5% The wines chosen by Austrian Arran Single Malt has Singapore. over the first half of 2010. Airlines’ scored Overall sales at the Middle consistently highly across all Eastern airport retailer rose 9.6% for the same period, categories, with its champagne, well above passenger traffic both its white wines and one red Jack Daniel’s pop-up store opens levels at Bahrain airport, wine all placed in the top ten lists which increased by only for their respective categories. at 2.7%. Qatar Airways was the runner- Torres has appointed up, taking the individual award for uance Australia has joined forces with the Jack Daniel’s 160th Birthday Bottle and Brown-Forman to build a temporary the exclusive Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel. ✈ Violaine Creuzé as its the Best for Selbach branded Jack Daniel’s outlet at Nuance Australia senior business manager new international travel- Oster Riesling Kabinett 2007. N Sydney international airport. Matthew Slattery said the US whiskey sector retail manager. Creuzé, The Best Airline Champagne/ The ‘pop-up’ store, which opened last had untapped potential for the Sydney who was previously export Sparkling wine was Jet Airways’ month and will trade until the end of next airport retailer. “The manager at Torres’ Jean month, is similar in design to a permanent market in Australia has experienced double- Leon winery, replaces Lanson Noble Cuvée Brut Jack Daniel’s store, which opened at Houston digit growth year-on-year over the past Kristoffer Pipusch. Millésime 1999. Jet Airways also airport last year. The Sydney outlet will sell three years with the exception of RTD’s. placed in the overall category, branded merchandise such as T-shirts, hats We see this trend continuing as Australians According to figures taking seventh position. and key-rings, as well as limited-edition understand the superb prices and value in ✈ released by the Spanish flag carrier Iberia products such as Jack Daniel’s Silver Select, shopping duty-free.” Canadian Frontier Duty Free Association (FDFA), Airlines took the award for Best liquor sales at the country’s Red with its Condado de Haza duty-free border outlets Crianza 2006. rose 2.39% in June to reach American Airlines dominated nearly C$4.6m. Liquor sales at Canadian airports for the the Best North American Wines same period jumped 23.79% on the Wing awards, taking top to stand at over C$3.36m. honours for Best North American Sparkling Wine (Gloria Ferrer Brown-Forman Sonoma Brut) and Best North ✈ has named Victor Hafström as the company’s American (Murphy- duty-free sales promoter Goode Cabernet Sauvignon). for the south-west Nordic Led by New York-based wine region. Based in Helsinki, writer Eunice Fried, the judges Finland, he will report to comprised wine sommeliers, JD looking good at Sidney International the B-F offices in . journalists and chefs.

10 Drinks International DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE • TRAVEL RETAIL • DUTY FREE Whiskyfest arrives north of the border

World Duty Free (WDF) and its chain of World of take it in turns to run promotional activities in high-profile  Whiskies outlets have launched their biggest ever in-store locations. in-store whisky festival at Scotland’s Edinburgh, Aberdeen William Grant & Sons brought in two of its coopers and Glasgow international airports. over four days last month to demonstrate their cask- The two-month Whisky Fest, which runs from August 18 repairing skills, while this month Chivas Brothers will to October 20, focuses on around 60 whiskies that are either use international brand ambassador Ian Logan to talk to exclusive to WDF, World of Whiskies or are general travel- customers about the launch of The Glenlivet 1968 and the retail exclusives. WDF has cut prices on about 40% of these travel-retail exclusive The Glenlivet First Fill and Glenlivet whiskies by 20% during the promotional period. Nadurra. Exclusives will be displayed on an “Exclusives Wall” in WDF is also running a consumer competition at the three store. Additional sampling is being staged and extra training Scottish airports to win bespoke made whisky cabinets filled is being given to sales staff. with many of the exclusive whiskies being promoted. William Grant & Sons, Chivas Brothers, Moët Hennessy WDF is the largest retailer of single malt whisky in the UK UK, Whyte & Mackay and Maxxium Travel Retail will with a 25% market share.

iageo Global Travel and Middle Minneapolis East (GTME) has managed to St. Paul debuts D pull off a major industry coup last month by staging the first alcohol sampling event at Dubai international wine store airport, the world’s single largest duty- innesota-based wine and free sales location. The Diageo ‘Mentorship Experience’ M cheese retailer Surdyk’s involved passengers being invited to has opened a combined wine enter an opaque black, soundproofed bar and food and wine store at pod, which was placed between the Minneapolis St. Paul airport. First and Business Class Emirates lounges in Terminal 3. Surdyk’s Flights is the US Once inside the pod Diageo Brand airport’s first wine bar. Airport Ambassador Tony Soushani gave operator Metropolitan Airports prospective customers a sampling Commission (MAC) looked at experience of Diageo’s portfolio of several national airport wine bar luxury brands, which includes Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Tanqueray Ten, operators, before selecting for a and Zacapa rum. local concessionaire. The pod could be adapted to a The 1,000 square feet Surdyk’s lounge format with leather seating or Flights outlet features a sit-down a bar format with two bar stools. One- way glass allowed passengers views to restaurant and bar, a retail wine the external airport concourse. shop and a take-away sandwich One wall of the pod was dedicated store. Due to its airside location, to an interactive touch screen, which Shrewd thinking: Enter the pod to experience Diageo’s ‘Mentorship Experience’ Surdyk’s Flights is able to sell was used to show potential customers bottles of wines to departing brand information and commercials. Changes in lighting, sound and passengers, a service previously smell were also used to develop Pod sampling first Diageo unavailable at the airport. the ambience of the various brand Design firm Shea Inc. worked experiences. GTME at Dubai airport on the store fit out, which includes Once the 10-20 minute brand experience was over, interested working together to create a new type completely differently about how we a full-size replica of the sign from customers were escorted to the of airport promotion. will grow our business in the future. It the original Surdyk’s Liquor Store, nearest Dubai Duty Free outlet to make “The Mentorship Experience has is a remarkable expression of the sort which first opened in 1934 after a purchase. completely challenged the paradigm of breakthroughs that can be achieved Prohibition ended. Diageo GTME has hailed the of what we thought was possible at by innovative, shrewd thinking between More contemporary features Mentorship Experience as an example Dubai airport,” claimed Diageo GTME ourselves and our partners.” of an airport authority Dubai Airports Gulf regional director Hugo Mills. “It Liquor sales at DDF grew 7% last year, include reclaimed wood flooring Company (DAC), a retailer (Dubai Duty has been an amazing adventure into the ahead of overall sales, which grew less and booths, off-white ceramic Free) and a supplier (Diageo GTME) unknown and has enabled us to think than 4% to reach $1.14bn. tiles, and glass and metal fixtures.

SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 11 ro b ust Yali Brand owner Viña Ventisquero Markets Americas/Asia/Europe Price £9.99, US$14, €12 Contact Américo Hernández Peragallo +44 (0)1342 318282

Viña Ventisquero’s Three Lagoons Carménère 2008 has achieved its first listing in the UK off trade with Sainsbury’s and is the latest release from Viña Ventisquero’s environmentally friendly Yali brand. Three Lagoons is Yali’s top tier and named after a string of lakes in the state protected El Yali wetland zone, situated close to Ventisquero’s winery in Maipo.

Dewar’s Brand owner Bacardi Price Varies from region to region Markets Americas, Asia, Europe Contact Trent Russell, global marketing director:

+44 (0)20 7563 3478 f a c e li t

Bacardi Global Travel Retail has has redesigned the Dewar’s bottle to include a “contemporary wave design” that “echoes both the welcoming splash of a Dewar’s dram and the signature “D” in the Dewar’s font”. The package also refers to the brand’s history through John Dewar’s signature, the date the company was founded, and gold medallions representing the brand’s awards to date. Canadian Mist The entire portfolio, including White Label, 12 year old, Black Diamond 18 year old and Signature has been redesigned and is said Brand owner Brown-Forman to “appear as a tight-knit family for the first time in the brand’s history”. Price $14.99 Markets US only Contact [email protected]

This richer, more robust expression of Canadian Mist is the creation environ m ental of Canadian Mist master blender Steve Hughes, whose signature will be on each bottle. Canadian Mist Black Diamond, which is made in Fee Brothers Celery Bitters Collingwood, Ontario, is blended at 86 proof (43%m abv) and has Brand owner Fee Brothers Celery bitters were produced in the nineteenth century by several different companies, and are a higher sherry and rye content to Price £8.50, US$12.95, €9.99 give it a more enhanced flavour and occasionally cited in older recipe books, but USA/Europe “deliver the smooth profile for which Markets the decline of bitters in the twentieth century Canadian Mist is known”. Contact Mangrove, UK Nick sealed their fate and celery bitters were phased It comes in 5cl, 75cl and 1.75L Gillett/Andrew Weir: out. But with a renewed interest in all things bottles. +44 (0)20 8551 4966 retro, Celery Bitters are making a comeback and will join classics such as Orange Bitters, Rhubarb Bitters and Old Fashion Bitters in Fee Brothers’ range of bitters. Made in New Yorkm, they come in 118cl bottles and are 1.29% abv.

retro

12 Drinks International What’s New BEESWAX Glengoyne 13 and 23 Year Old Highland Single The 57.3% abv whisky celebrates the 10th Ardbeg anniversary of worldwide club – the Malts Rollercoaster Ardbeg Committee. Brand owner Ian Macleod It is described as “the perfect fusion of Distillers sweetness, spice, creamy malt and deep Brand owner The Price £120/£195 US$190/230 Euro smoke.” €145/235 Glenmorangie Company The tasting notes go on to describe how Price £50 “fudge, burnt sugar and treacle toffee Markets Global specialist whisky Markets Global emerge first with peat encased in dark outlets Contact www.ardbeg.com chocolate. Cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg Contact www.glengoyne.com or spices bring warmth and richness before www.hmwsa.com a wave of iodine, coal tar and linseed oil takes hold. Fresh top notes of menthol, Glengoyne is expanding its whisky fennel and pine resin lift you higher. Then, portfolio with the launch of two new as you dip further into the glass, deep Limited Edition Single Cask Malts. notes of liquorice root, leather, brambles The new 13 Years Old (56% ABV) and black cherries crescendo from and 23 Years Old (53%) Glengoyne the glass along with hallmark Ardbeg Highland Single Malts were picked beeswax.” by a team of experts at Glengoyne before being personally approved and signed by distillery manager, Robbie Hughes.

SMOKIN’ Sidewood Balvenie Peated Cask 17 Year Old Estate Single Malt Reserve Syrah 2008 The Balvenie Peated Cask is described as a Brand owner Brand owner marriage of whiskies finished in heavily peated William Grant & Sons Owen and Cassandra casks and new American oak barrels. Inglis The Speyside single malt comes in 43% abv Price £71.99, US$ $120, Price £19, HK$240 for domestic markets but has been bumped €100 up to 49.1% fort travel retail.The story goes: Markets UK now, Markets UK and In 2001, a heavily peated batch of barley was worldwide thereafter Hong Kong bought from a local supplier and distilled Contact First Drinks: Contact www. at Balvenie. The distilled liquid was allowed +44 (0)2380 312000 connoisseurestates. to mature until Balvenie Malt Master, David co.uk Stewart decided it was time to rejuvenate the maturation process This premium Australian wine and so the whisky was transferred which is aimed at independent to newly prepared traditional retailers and on-trade, is made by casks. well known winemaker Natasha The casks that had originally “Tash” Mooney, who is also owner of held the peated liquid had taken Barossa-based Fox Gordon wines. on much of its character but The company says the grapes were without purpose, until are all from a single vineyard with David decided to experiment by ancient gravelly soils within the 300 filling them with 17-year-old acre Sidewood Estate in the heart of Balvenie for a short period. the Adelaide Hills region, and are all The result was an intensely hand-picked peaty whisky. Marrying Ten percent of the berries go this liquid with 17 year old through ferment as whole berries, Balvenie finished in new giving an additional dimension and American oak casks which flavour to the wine which is matured produced a complex single for 18 months in one-year-old malt, rich and spicy with French barrels from two Burgundian layers of smokiness. coopers. li m ited

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SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 13 Analysis Global Wine

Euromonitor senior drinks analyst Jeremy Cunnington profiles the major global wine companies

Follow the leaders Photo: Shutterstock.com/© Pincasso Shutterstock.com/© Photo:

he brand volumes in the profiles are a E&J Gallo Winery struggling with its wine operations ever since it mixture of data provided by companies In 2009, E&J Gallo Winery was the world’s second overpaid for Southcorp’s wine operations in 2005 and Euromonitor International biggest wine company. The company’s prime focus is and struggled to integrate it since. researched volumes, which are clearly North America, in particular the US, which accounts Following a strategic wine review in July 2010 Tmarked with * next to them. The latter are based on for more than 90% of the company’s volumes. Foster’s Group announced the separating out of its Euromonitor‘s global wine research on consumer The company has looked to expand overseas, wine operations into a separate entity Treasury Wine consumption of wine. Company and Euromonitor recently starting to export to South Africa. Yet its Estates. International numbers are not comparable as biggest overseas market is the UK, although it is Just under half the company’s wine volumes company volumes are shipments, so may include starting to make progress in central Europe, notably were sold in North America with most of the rest bulk or bottled wine provided to third parties. Germany and Poland. sold almost equally split between western Europe Euromonitor volumes exclude volumes sold to third The company performed well in 2009, benefitting (predominantly the UK) and Australasia. parties and are for volumes drunk by consumers in a from US consumers trading down, which helped The fall in company volumes in 2009 was particular year. drive the sales of its lower end wines such as Carlo primarily due to the company exiting from the cask Rossi and Twin Valley. (economy) wine segment in Australia. Constellation Brands Constellation Brands is comfortably the leading wine The Wine Group Les Grands Chais de France company in the world. The company has a wide The Wine Group, like E&J Gallo, is heavily focused Les Grands Chais de France was the world’s fifth range of brands in all categories bar champagne, 19 on the US market with more than 90% of its biggest wine company in 2009. of which have volumes that exceed a million nine- volumes sold there. Its major wine brand, JP Chenet, does have a litre cases. The company is focused at the economy end of relatively wide distribution with substantial volumes Despite a wide range of brands the company has a the market and has performed well as a consequence in France, Scandinavia, the UK and the Netherlands. narrow geographic coverage with more than 60% of of that as US consumers continued to trade down The company’s heartland is western Europe. Yet it its volumes sold in North America in 2009, a further in 2009. This has been led by its (and the world’s) has looked to expand outside the region as witnessed 20+% sold in Europe, predominantly the UK and a largest brand, Franzia. by its 2006 strategic alliance with The Wine Group, further 10%+ in Australasia. The company has looked to expand. In 2006, where both companies agreed to sell each other’s The company has suffered in recent years due to it created a strategic alliance with fifth-placed Les brands in their regions of strength. its narrow geographic coverage as many of its core Grands Chais de France, which meant they would markets were impacted heavily by recession and distribute each other’s brands in their strongholds Pernod Ricard over-production in Australia, with brands such as (the US and western Europe respectively). Pernod Ricard saw a decline in 2009 through a Stowells and Banrock Station suffering, although this This was followed in 2007 with the acquisition combination of divestments of some of the brands it has been mitigated in part by the strong growth of of Constellation Brands’ economy range products had acquired as part of the V&S acquisition in 2008 brands such as Hardy’s. Almaden and Inglenook. and the weak performance of its Jacob’s Creek and Its steep fall in 2009 is also partly explained by the Montana brands, especially in its key market the UK selling of a number of smaller wine brands to Eight Foster’s Group as well as its champagne brands. Estates in June 2008. The Australian beer and wine company has been The company produces wine in a wide range of

14 Drinks International countries but just over half its volumes were sold in also producers/distributes beer and soft drinks in and selling its products, which are lower-end table western Europe, with the next biggest region being Africa. wines, in the Tetra Pak format. Australasia, which accounted for 20% of its volumes The company’s primary strength in wine volume The company is the leading player in its domestic in 2009. North America accounted for only just over terms is its native French market, which accounts for market, which accounted for more than 80% of its 5% of volumes during the year. more than 80% of the company’s volumes. volumes in 2009. 2010 has seen the company showing renewed This is also where most of its wine is sourced from, Most of its exports were in the form of providing vigour in the wine category, with the setting up of although in recent years it has developed vineyards volumes for retail own-brands, although in 2010 the a separate brand company, Premium Wine Brands, and wineries in Africa, notably Morocco, Tunisia company created a huge promotional campaign in to push its key wine brands as well its Graffina and, most recently, Ethiopia. the UK to launch its Tavernello brand. Argentine brand. In July 2010, it added to its French operations by Its senior executives have also talked about its next acquiring the Barton & Guestier Bordeaux trading Distell acquisition being in wine, with the US the most likely house, including all its brands and operations. The The South African-based company Distell, like many country it will turn to next due to its relatively weak vast majority of the company’s volumes are sold as other companies in the list, is heavily reliant on its position there. unbranded products. domestic market, with more than 70% of its volumes The company’s volume declines in 2009 were due sold in South Africa. Peñaflor to falling domestic volumes as well as in its largest Of its three major brands, only Drostdy-Hof Peñaflor is Argentina’s largest wine player. The vast export market in 2008, the UK. That honour in has substantial volumes outside South Africa. The majority of its wine is sold domestically, an issue 2009 was taken over by China. other two brands, Paarl Perle and Autumn Harvest exacerbated in 2009 when its exports fell by some Crackling, are domestic economy-level brands. 20% so exports in 2009 accounted for around 15% Caviro The company’s volume decline in 2009 was of total wine sales due to a combination of a poor Italian based Caviro is a consortium of some 35,000 primarily due to the effects of the global recession on harvest and currency issues making its wine too wine-growing members that are grouped in more South Africa, which hit domestic volumes. expensive for its key exports markets. This fall was than 40 estate co-operatives, where production and The 2009 decline was in part mitigated by growth more than countered by strong domestic growth. packaging is constantly monitored to meet quality in exports, notably to western Europe, especially The company has driven sales by having a range of standards. the UK, Sweden and Germany with brands such as wines at different price points. The unusual focus of the company is on producing Drostdy-Hof, Two Oceans and Nederburg. DI At the economy end it has its Termidor, which is primarily sold domestically, in the mid-price range Global wine: leading companies and brands it has brands such as Santa Ana, which are sold (millions of 9-litre cases) domestically as well as exported to emerging market regions and, to a lesser extent, the premium markets Company Total volume Leading Brands of western Europe and North America. 2008 2009 2008 2009 At the top end it has brands such as Michel Constellation Brands 96.9 86.5 Hardys 8 9.3 Woodbridge 7.5 7.5 Torrino and Trapiche which are focused on the more Arbor Mist 4.2 4 premium regions. E & J Gallo Winery* 73.2* 74.2* Carlo Rossi 14* 14.4* Gallo 8.8* 8.7* Concha y Toro Twin Valley 8.3* 8.6* Concha y Toro has perhaps been the most successful The Wine Group 56 58 Franzia 24.3 25 Almaden 6.8 6.7 in developing export markets for its brands. Inglenook 3.1 3.3 The company, which has production facilities in Corbett Canyon 3 3.1 Chile (its main one) and Argentina, only had around Foster’s Group* 37.3 35.9 Beringer 8.6* 8.7* 32% of the wine produced sold in either Chile or Lindemans 7.9* 8* Wolf Blass 4.4* 4.5* Argentina in 2009, down from 49% in 2003, in a Les Grands Chais de France 33.3 34 JP Chenet 5.9 6 period where volumes have nearly doubled. Pernod Ricard* 34.5* 33.4* Jacob’s Creek 7.8 7.4 The company’s key export market has been Europe Campo Viejo 1.5 1.5 and, in particular, the UK, although it also has large Montana 1.4 1.2 sales in Scandinavia. Peñaflor 30.9 31.3 Termidor 7.7 8.1 The UK was one of the company’s key growth Michel Torino 3.6 3.5 Santa Ana 3.3 3.3 markets in 2009, along with North America, Trapiche 2.4 2.5 especially the US and its domestic Chilean market. Concha y Toro 26.6 28.1 Concha y Toro 11.3 12.7 Growth is unlikely to be as spectacular in 2010 – Frontera† 3.9† 4.9† due to the earthquake, which prevented the company – Casillero del Diablo† 2.7† 2.6† Cono Sur 3.6 4 from any Chilean exports. Castel Group* 28.2* 27.6* La Roche Mazet 2.7* 2.5* The Argentine subsidiary sold 2.56 million La Villageoise 1.7* 1.6* cases in 2009. The wines from Argentina are Vieux Papes 1.2* 1* commercialised under different brands. Trivento Caviro 18.8 18.7 Tavernello 12.7 12.6 brand is the most important one with sales of Castellino 2.3 2.3 788,000 cases. Distell 18.8 18.6 Paarl Perle 2.9 3 Autumn Harvest Crackling 2.5 2.6 Drostdy Hof 2.2 2.3 Castel Group *Figures based on Euromonitor International researched volumes In ninth place is the French multi-drinks category †Both Frontera and Casillero del Diablo volumes are included in the Concha y Toro brand volumes as they are sub-brands company Castel. In addition to wine the company september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 15 Analysis Global Wine A grip on global preferences Producers with global ambition face a choice: to be seen as an industrially produced ‘mass market’ wine, or adhere to the notion of ‘terroir’ and limit distribution to a few key markets. Andrew Catchpole asks wine marketers if there can be any such thing as a truly global wine brand

ith mature western wine markets development of [Pernod Ricard’s wine] brands supermarket has 13 Pinot Grigios on its shelves, showing little or no growth in wine within the Pernod Ricard distribution network,” the suggesting that, even with the recent consolidation, consumption even before the onset company stated. it can be difficult for a single brand to achieve a big of the global economic downturn, This perhaps illustrates most vividly the potential market share. theW big brand owners and big brand builders of future for the growth of wine brands – namely the It’s a point that Lou Applebaum, senior vice- the wine world have faced grave challenges in need, through necessity and/or expediency, for major president of strategy and business development at recent years. brand owners to realign their focus and put more Constellation Brands, picks up on: “Yes, suppliers, Low margins, a spiralling discount culture and resources behind growing their wine brands in Asia distributors and retailers are all consolidating, but rationalisation of ranges by retailers in these same and other emerging markets. consumers still seek out fragmentation, so it is markets have led to well-documented troubles for difficult to target spend to reach a market, especially the companies behind the most familiar names Shrinking world when you consider that 4%-5% is the largest share in wine. To fully underline the situation in the mature that even the biggest brand of wine is likely to have Major players, including Constellation and western wine markets, it’s worth considering the in a given market.” Foster’s, have cut staff or sought to offload some or comments of two notable industry figures in relation Brands, though, need to grow to survive. Perhaps all of their wine operations, with Foster’s recently to the UK. surprisingly, many of the major brand owners still confirming its plans to separate out its wine division Chris Carson, now UK managing director for cite western Europe and the US as their major focus from its profitable beer division with the creation of Italian giant Gruppo Italiano Vini, was the man for potential growth, with the emphasis typically Treasury Wine Estates. responsible for growing Constellation’s Hardys now on capturing more premium positioning as These upheavals hint at the scale of the challenges brand at a phenomenal rate to a 3 million case brand consumer confidence gradually returns. facing the major wine owners and, in a similar in the 1990s. “I believe the days of 1 million-plus “Our core market remains the UK and Europe, vein, Pernod Ricard – owner of Jacob’s Creek case brands are over,” says Carson, suggesting that where we are seeing growth in brands including (Australia), Montana (now Brancott, New Zealand) a combination of consumer fatigue, competition Hardys and Kumala, with the on-trade and Campo Viejo Rioja – announced in July that it and consolidation are all obstacles to category doing quite well,” says Clare Griffiths, has restructured, creating a new company called domination. Constellation Europe vice-president Premium Wine Brands. At the same time, Carson adds that one UK for consumer marketing. Here, “The company’s objective is to though, she hints that the only way accelerate the international is up. “There is saturation in terms of volume in traditional markets, so reinvestment has to be prioritised to gain premium positing.” This leaves open the rest of the world. “There are a lot of factors to consider in terms of growing globally and we recognise there is not one global solution,” continues Griffiths. “But we are looking at our potential future growth in mainland Europe and emerging markets, so we need to put investment into these markets

Shutterstock/Alberto P Shutterstock/Alberto and tailor our activities to each market.”

16 Drinks International Angus McPherson Pier Luigi Calcagnile Clare Griffiths

Market by market will remain a boutique-sized wine in competition Argento has used “shop window UK” to achieve a This is the conundrum currently facing all would-be with other boutique-sized wines, limiting your relatively premium positioning via higher end off- global brand builders – namely to achieve a balance resources to grow.” trade and on-trade listings, allowing it to approach between continuing to service steady or even static other markets from a position of relative strength markets with big volume appetites, and investing in Developing territories rather than discount-beaten necessity. often much more difficult (but potentially rewarding) It’s a point often overlooked in the clamour markets elsewhere. surrounding potentially huge markets such as Global brand, local approach Almost all brand owners agree that while the mainland China. Currently, without the type of The Malbec grape is also, of course, a significant brand itself – the core message as related by distribution network that a company such as Pernod point of difference, although it is perhaps unrealistic packaging and marketing story – remains a constant, Ricard already has in place on the back of its spirits to compare Argento with any of the biggest globally- the method of delivery, marketing and positioning operations, a market such as China (and for this, aspiring brands. A point of difference, though, need to be addressed market by market. read many other emerging markets across the globe) is what appears to have propelled Italian brand Yellow Tail has charted a fairly typical course is beset with difficulties – of culture, language, Tavernello into the global super-league. in terms of global wine brand building. “Our limited wine knowledge, high taxes and ultimately Conceived 25 years ago as a no-frills, every-day strategy was first to target the UK and US,” says immature distribution networks. drinking wine brand for the domestic Italian market, Angus McPherson, export manager for brand Despite heady growth in wine imports into China, focused on the off-trade multiples and later packaged owner Casella. Tesco still sells a greater volume to its customers in into eye-catching Tetra Pak, the ease and every-day “We took off so quickly in the UK that we held the UK. Add into the equation the recent prediction immediacy of this brand was a hit. back on focusing on other markets initially because by Vinexpo (and others) that China could become “The success of Tavernello in Italy convinced us we didn’t want issues with demand outstripping the world’s biggest producer of wine some time that the product would work equally well in selected supply. But, having established ourselves in these in the next few decades – and at a far cheaper international markets, given the right approach, key markets we are now in more price than western brands – and the wariness of flexibility and in-market knowledge,” says Pier Luigi than 50 countries, and the over-investment and real returns clearly has to be Calcagnile, chief executive of brand owner Caviro’s number one Australian considered carefully against driving harder in the export business. brand in 10 of those saturated traditional markets. “We approached the launch of Tavernello in all markets.” Still, brand owners are well aware that there is our domestic and international markets as that of an Despite this, McPherson ample potential for better margins in many newer FMCG product, rather than simply another wine, is wary of suggesting that and developing markets. Argentine brand Argento subtly tailoring the packaging and profile of the wine to any one wine brand can is another that began life in the UK, but has now each market to ensure it appealed to local consumers.” become a truly global spread its wings. “Argento is a straightforward Tavernello is in the big league, with key markets brand. “If you look at the proposition, an easy story to tell, of fruit purity and beyond Italy being Germany, Japan, Russia, China top five beer brands in the bright modern Malbec,” says managing director and the UK, plus good growth in more recently world, they have a 60% Amelia Nolan. penetrated markets such as Scandinavia, eastern market share, but the top “The UK and to an extent the US remain crucial Europe and other Far Eastern territories. wine brands have perhaps shop windows for establishing a brand, but over “Our brand is global, from our packaging, positioning 7%,” he says. the past five years we have also been focusing and communications, but our approach is local in terms “You can become a on successfully growing in other markets such of marketing, product support and pricing,” concludes major brand in the US, UK, as Scandinavia and Canada. We now have full Calcagnile. “One size does not fit all.” Germany, Canada, in markets distribution in markets in South America and, while This though, as Calcagnile agrees, need not be where a lot of wine is consumed, but it is early days, we are looking carefully at Asia.” an insurmountable obstacle in creating truly global beyond such markets consumption is small, so you Perhaps crucially, as a relatively youthful brand, wine brands. DI september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 17 Profile A man of many faces

Lucy Britner meets the brains behind the brand activity for Pernod Ricard – and finds Illy Jaffar has several strings to his bow

OU NEED TO KNOW ILLY JAFFAR. HE’S THE a rich cultural background so we got involved man with the connections. You’ve probably seen with the Polish cultural institute and, over him around – snappy dresser, silver jewellery. An three years, we’ve got the advocacy and the Indian guy from northern UK county Yorkshire. recommendations. It’s great for me because Yes? I can be very specific rather than do generic You might have seen him hobnobbing with advertising campaigns.” Tony Blair. You might have sat on “his” seat in The world of communications has changed Leeds bar Mojo. He’s the man who was having dramatically since Jaffar started working at Y drinks with Dale DeGroff when he invented the Pernod Ricard in 2003 and he thinks social Cosmo and he knew Milk & ’s Jonathan media and digital marketing is going to be a big Downey when Downey was still a lawyer. part of the future. Perhaps you saw him at the sound desk while he was managing Iron Maiden’s Knebworth The next big thing House gig this July? “It’s a lot more complex and exciting. If you Considering all of this, it’s no surprise that just take the opportunities on the internet and people don’t know exactly what Jaffar does for a digital, it’s a really rich tapestry of tools that are job. It’s time to find out. available to the communicator. It’s going towards Jaffar has worked for Pernod Ricard for seven mobile, hand-held communication, iPhone apps – years and his current role is head of brand very personal. People want things and they want advocacy. them now and they are starting to expect that so He explains what that means: “It leads on brands need to be on board with that.” from experiential stuff we did before. It’s taking Jaffar’s latest creation, drinkology.co.uk, is a consumers who are into your brand and like it, bit like Facebook for . There’s room and getting them to talk about it.” to get geeky about a category and Jaffar has Jaffar points to the example of and appointed “gurus” to offer their wisdom on how Pernod raised its profile within the Polish their specialist area – Ian Wisniewski for vodka, community. Geraldine Coates for gin and Gary Regan for He says: “Wyborowa was known but wasn’t bartenders, for example. that well respected – it had kind of an image He says: “The idea came about from a problem. So in Poland, they much preferred conversation with Henry Besant at Worldwide drinking imported vodka. Cocktail Club. I look at my Facebook and most “When Poles came to the UK, they saw it in of my friends are bartenders and they’re trying to top bars and being used by Polish bartenders. It’s tell the community about their work through the like getting recommended an Indian restaurant by fuzz of Facebook. an Indian. It’s got more gravitas.” “I thought, what if we were to develop Jaffar’s job is to engage those Polish drinkers something that could do that sort of thing but and work out how to get them to spread the they could talk about brands and organise a word. social night out? He says: “We started drilling down into small “I wanted to be very clear that it wasn’t networks of people. You can immerse yourself about our brands, it was about us trying to put in a small community or network. Poles have something back into the industry.”

18 Drinks International We all need contacts and if you need to know someone or find someone or get in somewhere, you call Illy. He’ll know someone who knows

Jaffar set a modest target of 1,000 registered Brand management users in the first six weeks. This figure has been It was during this project that Jaffar reconnected surpassed and the website has become popular with Mercury Prize-winning musician Talvin with Australians and New Yorkers and Jaffar Singh, which ultimately led him back into the says it even receives visits from Korea. music industry. “Maybe other Pernod Ricard markets can take As a manager for Singh in 1999, Jaffar was it on and tailor it to their particular markets,” responsible for managing and producing three he adds. “It’s about sharing the knowledge, world tours and multiple DJ appearances. sharing the love. I suppose I’m a bit of a hippy at This role also included collaborating with heart…” Jaffar muses. Then he comes back with: Madonna and Massive Attack. “No, I’m a rocker!” So how does managing a music star compare to managing a brand? The trooper “Well the brands don’t answer back,” jokes Jaffar is referring to his love of music and, in Jaffar. “When I was managing Singh, I had to particular, rock music. One of his rings is a manage the perception of him. I was working skeletal hand creeping around his finger and with a musical genius but he had the foibles of a you can see that the nails on his right hand are genius. slightly longer – a telltale sign of a guitar player. “I had to know what to do when he didn’t turn In fact, Jaffar has been in bands since the age of up for a gig. It was very much like managing a 14 – as a drummer, singer and bassist. When he brand. I think he saw that in me. Oh, and I’m a was 20, he got a break and ended up going to LA nice person as well,” he laughs. with the aim of getting signed. Jaffar also learnt a lot technically, including the Spotted by a booker on Sunset Strip, Jaffar and mechanics of spec-ing out a brand experience and his band played alongside Guns ’n’ Roses and, knowing how to create a look and feel. Poison. Unfortunately they didn’t get signed and “Marketers can be very spreadsheet oriented,” when they returned to Leeds, Jaffar decided it he says. “Sitting in the head office thinking they was time to get a job. know what people want to see and do and what “I started as a temporary accounts clerk in they are drinking.” Asda’s head office in Leeds. I still looked a It’s no surprise then that Jaffar is out every bit strange with my band image and people night, finding out what people want to see and do remembered me. and what they are drinking (gin’s still the thing, “That’s been a thing that has been prevalent by the way). thoughout my career,” he says, though he admits “I once heard two people from Pernod say: ‘If it has its good and bad points. Illy’s in (the office) before midday, we’re doing “Eventually someone asked me if I liked wine something wrong. He’s not been out the night and, being from Leeds, I said: ‘As it ’appens, before and he’s not meeting people.” ah do.’” Spending his weekends sipping red wine with He joined the buying team and worked his way Iron Maiden is a good way to meet people. up from buying assistant to buyer, gaining his He says there’s a perception that he’s ‘the fixer’: diploma at the same time. “We all need contacts and if you need to know “That’s how I got into drink and I’ve never someone or find someone or get in somewhere, looked back. I’ve done other music projects but you call Illy. He’ll know someone who knows. the two go hand in hand, really,” he says. “That’s the great thing about what I do. After Asda and during a period of agency work People know they have seen me around and for various drinks brands and hospitality outlets, they ask if I’m famous. I say ‘no, I’m infamous’.” Jaffar worked on the opening of top London he laughs. music venue Fabric. So now you know Illy Jaffar. DI september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 19 Brandy In the final instalment, we publish the results of the International Spirits Challenge judging of the Brandy, Rum and Design & Packaging categories he judges convened the On these pages are the medals winners week commencing Monday and commendeds in the brandy section. June 28 at the International On pages 24 and 25 are the results of the Wine & Spirits centre in Rum judging and pages 28 and 29 are London to decide the dark the pronouncements of the judges of the spiritsT categories of the International Design & Packaging section. Spirits Challenge.

GOLD Cognac ABK6 VS Pure Single, ABK6 VSOP Grand Cru, Leyrat Glory Extra ABK6 Cognac Frapin Multimillésime No 3 Grande Champagne Cognac Frapin Distillerie des Saules Borderies, Distillerie les Magnolias Grand Champagne Cognac Louis Royer

Armagnac Janneau 25 Year Old Double Distilled Giovinetti Partners Judges of the Brandy – South Africa category (back row from left): Simon Palmer, maître KWV 20 Year Old Potstill de chai, ABK6 Cognac Leyrat; Brandy Neil Mathieson, managing KWV director, Eaux de Vie; Ian Harris, chief executive, the Mellow-Wood Brandy Wine & Spirit Education Van Ryn’s 10 Year Old Trust; (front row from left) Vintage, Van Ryn’s 15 Year Kobus Gelderblom, chief Old Fine Cask Reserve brandy master, KWV; Louis Distell Nomdedeu, Rémy-Cointreau; and Olivier Paultes, maître de chai, Cognac Frapin.

20 Drinks International ISC: Brandy

SILVER Cognac ABK6 XO Family Reserve, Le Reviseur ABK6 Cognac Bache-Gabrielsen Hors d’Age Bache-Gabrielsen Otard VSOP Château de Cognac Séraphin VS Cognac Camus Francois Voyer XO Gold Francois Voyer

Armagnac Janneau 8 Year Old Double Distilled, Janneau 12 Year Old Double Distilled, Janneau 18 Year Old Double Distilled Giovinetti Partners

Calvados Père Magloire VSOP Pays d’Auge Debrise-Dulac & Cie

Brandy – France Grand Empereur Varietal French Brandy Cognac De Luze

Brandy – Spain Gran Duque de Alba XO Williams & Humbert

Brandy – South Africa Klipdrift Export, Oude Meester Reserve 12 Year Old, Oude Meester VSOB, Richelieu Distell Uitkyk Grand Reserve Cape Legends

Grappa di Traminer Pilzer Distilleria

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 21 ISC: Brandy

BRONZE Brandy – France Cognac St-Rémy Authentic French Bonaparte VS Brandy VSOP Arcus Rémy Cointreau Dupuy XO Tentation Bache-Gabrielsen Francois Voyer Extra Brandy – Spain Francois Voyer Alma de Magno Distillerie Chantal Bons Osborne Bois, Gran Duque de Alba Oro Distillerie de l’Ecole Très Williams & Humbert Vieux, Louis Royer Extra Grande Champagne, Brandy – South Africa Louis Royer VSOP Klipdrift Gold, Preference Klipdrift Premium, Cognac Louis Royer Oude Meester Souverein Rémy Martin Coeur de 18 Year Old, Cognac Van Ryn’s 12 Year Old Rémy Cointreau Distillers Reserve Distell Wellington Signature Armagnac Brandy Edward Snell & Co Janneau VSOP Giovinetti Partners KWV 10 Year old Potstill Brandy, KWV 15 Year old Potstill Marquis de Montesquiou Brandy, Cuvée Louis 1er KWV Laborie Alambic Pernod Ricard KWV

Grappa Grappa di Moscato Giallo, Père Magloire XO Pays Grappa di Nosiola d’Auge Pilzer Distilleria Debrise-Dulac & Cie

COMMENDED Cognac Difference XO Cognac Cognac Camus Brandy – South Africa Bonaparte VSOP Cognac Louis Royer Daron Calvados XO Sydney Back 10 Year Old, Arcus Vieux Garçon Cognac VS Cognac Ferrand Sydney Back NV Bisquit VS Classique, Lidl Backsberg Bisquit VSOP Fine Collison’s, Delamain Pale & Dry Brandy – France Champagne, Mentzendorff Flight of the Fish Eagle, Bisquit XO Fine Champagne VSOP Mellow Wood 5, Rémy Martin VSOP, Bisquit Dubouche & Cie Arcus Nederburg Solera, Rémy Martin XO Excellence Oude Meester Demant, Otard VS, Otard XO Rémy Cointreau Asda Extra Special 5 Year Château de Cognac Old French Brandy Viceroy 5 Year Old Distell Camus VS Elegance, Bardinet Camus VSOP Elegance, Grand Empereur Regional Imoya Camus XO Borderies, Armagnac French Brandy KWV Camus XO Elegance, Janneau XO Cognac De Luze Martell VO Séraphin XO Giovinetti Partners Vieux Garçon French Pernod Ricard South Africa Cognac Camus Single de Samalens Brandy XO 8 Year Old, Lidl De Luze Alfred, Brandy – India De Luze VSOP Single de Samalens St-Rémy Authentic French Cognac De Luze 12 Year Old, Brandy XO Scarletts VS Brandy The Devicolam Distilleries Pierre Ferrand Ambre Single de Samalens Rémy Cointreau 15 Year Old Cognac Ferrand Armagnac Samalens Cognac Louis Royer XO, Grappa Distillerie d’Aumagne Fins Brandy – Spain Grappa Barrique del Bois, Calvados Carlos I Solera Limousin 7 Years Force 53, Luigi Francoli Grappe Louis Royer VS, Berneroy Fine, Osborne Louis Royer VSOP, Berneroy VSOP, Gran Duque de Alba Sainsbury’s Taste the Berneroy XO Williams & Humbert

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 23 ISC: Rum

SILVER Rum – white Angostura Reserva Angostura

Santa Teresa Claro Ron Santa Teresa

Rum – barrel aged gold/dark Admiral Rodney St Lucia Distillers

Rum judges (from left):Tom Forrest, Vinopolis; Andreas Angostura 5 Year Old Redlefsen, Elements 8; Peter Martin, J Wray & Nephew Angostura UK, Kirstie McCallum, Burn Stewart Distillers; Paul McFadyen, IP Bartenders; chairman of the judges Steve Dos Maderas PX 5+5 Hoyles, Chivas Brothers and Carsten Vlierboom, E&A Williams & Humbert Scheer BV Mount Gay XO Rémy Cointreau

Santiago de Cuba Extra Añejo 20 Compagnie de Guyenne GOLD Rum – white Rum – spiced Elements 8 Platinum Sailor Jerry Elements 8 William Grant & Sons Island Magic Superior White Booker Rhum agricole Tøz White Gold Neisson Blanc 50 St Lucia Distillers Neisson Reserve Spéciale Distillerie Neisson

Rum – Saint James Royal Ambre barrel aged La Martiniquaise gold/dark Red Heart Cachaça Pernod Ricard Cachaça Fazenda Soledade South Africa Fazenda Soledade

Rum – spiced Chairman’s Reserve Spiced St Lucia Distillers Elements 8 Barrel Infused Spiced Elements 8

24 Drinks International BRONZE Rum – white Asda Carta Blanca Bardinet Old Hopking White Aldi Sainsbury’s Superior White Sainsbury’s

Rum – barrel aged gold/dark Angostura 7 Year Old Angostura 1919 Angostura 1824 Angostura Bacardi Gold Bacardi Reserva Limitada Bacardi Solera Bacardi Limited Chairman’s Reserve St Lucia Distillers Elements 8 Gold Elements 8 Havana Club Añejo 15 Years Havana Club International James Cook Genuine Overseas Rum Lidl Mount Gay Eclipse Rémy Cointreau Sainsbury’s Superior Dark Sainsbury’s Santa Teresa 1796 Ron Santa Teresa

Rhum agricole Neisson Extra Vieux Distillerie Neisson Cachaça Cachaça Reserva 51 Companhia Müller de Bebidas Leblon Leblon Cachaça Cane spirit, Other Mainstay Distell Mekhong International Beverage Umlambo Cane Spirit Robinson Ypioca Aguardente de Cana 6 Years Grupo Ypioca

COMMENDED Rum – white Havana Club Anejo 3 Años Plantation 5 Years Barbados Havana Club International Cognac Ferrand Rum – barrel aged gold/dark Rogue Dark Bacardi Añejo Rogue Spirits Bacardi Limited Santa Teresa Añejo Gran Reserva Cane Trader Dark Santa Teresa Selecto Booker Ron Santa Teresa Dos Maderas 5+3 Santiago de Cuba Añejo Williams & Humbert Compagnie de Guyenne Old Hopking Dark Rum – spiced Aldi Lamb’s Spiced Corby Distilleries

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 25 ISC: Design & Packaging The full package

SPECIALIST AWARDS Best Design & Packaging for Travel Retail - Balblair

Best Design & packaging for the On-Trade - Bushmills Original

Most Innovative Graphic Design - The Kraken

Most Innovative Pack Format - Rock Edition

How a brand looks is a key part of the GOLD Balblair process of the consumer buying in International Beverage Caorunn International Beverage he judges assembled on July 1 at the of the spirits spectrum. From XO cherry brandy, The Kraken International Wine and Spirits Centre exotic liqueurs and to top end , , Stranger and Stranger in London to preside over the Design & and whisky. The Paulsen Collection Cognac Packaging section of the International Names ranged from The Kraken, Chinggis Khan, Stranger and Stranger Spirits Challenge. Fifty Pounds to Abnormal and Writers Tears. Here Ty Ku Soju TThere were over 100 entries across the whole range are the ones that caught our expert judges’ eyes. TY KU LLC Meet the judges

Nick Wykes Nick Monk Chairman: Richard Cutler Christian Davis IP Bartenders Multi Labels Paul Foulkes- O-I Europe Editor - Drinks Arellano International Wren & Rowe

28 Drinks International SILVER Bushmills Irish Whiskey range Diageo Bushmills Original Diageo Cherry Brandy XO De Kuyper Royal Distillers Elements 8 Spiced Rum Elements 8 Rum Co Fifty Pounds Sanchez Romate Hnos Gin Mare Global Premium Brands La Fee Parisienne Cellar Trends Marquis Vodka Marquis Vodka Olmega Altos 100% Tequilla Pernod Ricard Mexico Persha Gildiya Grand NAT Poli Poli Distillerie SRL Solerno William Grant & Sons Spice Tree BRONZE Stranger and Stranger Heaven Premium Williams Chase Gin LLP ArLine Chase Distillery Irish Mist Liqueur Writers Tears William Grant & Sons Hot Irishman Plum Liqueur de France Prucia Suntory Liquors Pure Green Renbjer & Magnusson Tatratea Range Karloff s.r.o. U’Luvka Vodka The Brand Distillery

COMMENDED Abnormal Vodka Sun Stars & Sons Black Bush Diageo Bulbash Dionis Ceylon Marblehead Brand Development Chinggis Khan APU Joint Stock Company Chivas Regal 12 by Christian Lacroix Chivas Brothers Vodka Belvedere Scandinavia A/S Heaven Luxury LLP ArLine Single Single de Samalens 15 yo Armagnac Samalens Slieve Foy 8 yo Single malt Cooley Distillery

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 29 Cream Liqueurs

From staid to startling may be an exaggeration but the move to better quality ingredients, 100% natural constitutes a fresh start for the category Jaq Bayles reports New

ow some 35 years old, the Market Sizes - Historic cream liqueurs category World 2009 %2008-09 has long been dominated Liqueurs - Total Volume - ‘000 litres 879686.5 -0.6 by one brand – Diageo’s Liqueurs - Total Value RSP - US$ mn 35943.4 0.8 Baileys – and - Current Prices - Fixed 2009 Exchange Rates Nhas been seen as staid and unexciting. Cream-based Liqueurs - Total Volume - ‘000 litres 126612.6 -1.3 But, according to some producers, Cream-based Liqueurs - Total Value RSP - US$ mn 4709.7 0.3 there’s a new wave in the liquid as - Current Prices - Fixed 2009 Exchange Rates bartenders and consumers turn to Sources: ©2010 Euromonitor International more artisanal products with premium ingredients and start making comparisons market, world number two Amarula Diageo to make the running and then to with food. upped its profile via a sponsorship deal pick up a share of the action.” While Euromonitor International with FIFA during the World Cup this year Florian Iro, international marketing figures show that the category overall and newcomer Coole Swan is attempting and sales director for Mozart chocolate has declined by 1.3%, probably due to to prove wrong market predictions. liqueurs confirms this statement: “The pricing in the current global economic In its report of October 2009, Global category has its ups and downs and is Opportunities for Leading Spirits Despite driven hugely by Baileys. Tons of me-too Small batch the Economic Downturn, Euromonitor brands have flooded the market. production: made International pointed out: “While it is “There’s a big price war out there, with real ingredients and 100% natural an advantage to get into the market first especially in big markets like Greece and become the main brand/company, where they have had a huge increase this may not be possible due to cost, in alcohol tax. It will completely alter for example cream-based liqueurs is a the shelf price situation. Big companies, novel category for many countries and the Diageos and Pernod Ricards of this is dominated by Diageo’s Baileys Irish world, can come up with lower prices but Cream. To make headway in the category we can’t. We have to accept the situation any company would have to invest large and prices will go up accordingly.” amounts in the markets to make this But he says there is movement at the category work. premium end, with an emphasis on taste. “This is far beyond the budgets of “There was a trend forwards into smaller producers such as C&C and cream liqueurs in cocktails, but right Distell. Therefore for any of the smaller now it’s back to basics – you can players to enter a market it is reliant on consume it neat with an ice cube.

30 Drinks International Choctails and cocktails are still there Brand Shares Ranking countries more successful. and people love to drink in bars, but (by Global Brand Name) - Total Volume Distell’s Amarula, for example, says brands are going back to the point that its drinkers differ in demographic profile Brand Company name (GBO) 2009 if you can’t drink our product neat you World around the world. Lorien Kee, Amarula shouldn’t drink it. Product quality is best Cream-based Liqueurs global marketing manager, says: “In the identified if you consume it neat and with Baileys Irish Cream Diageo Plc 1 UK, it is young adults who have shown this sort of price the emphasis will go Amarula Distell Group Ltd 2 the strongest preference, whereas in back to quality.” Carolans Irish Cream William Grant & Sons (see below) 3 South Africa consumers are generally David Phelan, director of Irish cream E & J Cask & Cream E & J Gallo Winery 4 aged between 30 and 40. Coole Swan, launched in 2007, agrees Sheridan’s Diageo Plc 5 “Consumption context can also differ that the products should be able to be Ponche Crema Complejo Licorero Ponche Crema 6 from one country to the next, although Tequila Rose McCormick Distilling Co Inc 7 consumed neat but adds: “There’s a new globally there is an increasing swing Rompope Santa Clara Grupo Cuervo SA de CV 8 wave in the cream liqueurs category, towards relaxed, informal, at-home Irish Knights Irish Country Cream First Ireland Spirits Co Ltd 9 particularly in the US, with this whole St Brendan’s Luxco Corp 10 enjoyment, which may in part be artisanal approach in the area of cocktails Sources: ©2010 Euromonitor International attributable to the impact of the global and mixology – that whole aspect in recession. drinks that’s being led by the US and by “In Brazil, it remains a popular drink London.” liqueurs don’t colour up.” in bars and clubs, served over ice. In He reckons smaller batch production To further highlight the comparison South African home consumption brands, which position themselves as with food, Coole Swan worked with takes precedence, also over being “made with real ingredients and award-winning mixologist Paul Lambert ice, or in cocktails. In 100% natural”, are what bartenders are and Irish Olympian chef Paul Kelly Angola, it is offered at all looking for. “You can see that trend in to create some cocktails and desserts, formal off-consumption food and cream liqueurs are the closest creating a recipe booklet for consumers. Mozart outlets, as well as through thing you will get to food in alcohol.” Again, Iro of Salzburg-based Mozart cocktail informal street vendors, bars, Coole Swan does not contain any concurs that food comparisons are the recipes restaurants, night clubs and duty caramel colouring and advances in way forward. The brand is popular free outlets. In Kenya, it sells at all Double Choc technology since the birth of the category in Australia where ‘choctails’ are all off-consumption outlets, in hotels, 40ml Mozart White have meant that its producers were able the rage and Iro talks of a masterclass 30ml Tanqueray 10 bars, game lodges, restaurants, sports to move to a distinctive bottle. “incentive programme where we invite 25ml Maraschino liqueur and golf clubs, night clubs and duty free Says Phelan: “We tried to bring a bit bartenders to experiment with Mozart as (Boudier) outlets.” of excitement to the shelf and to bring a cocktail”. He says he likes to suggest 20ml cream (light) Coole Swan is looking at expanding the liquid back to life. The reason for that bartenders look at the sweet shelves Mozart Gold its markets and Phelan says there have the brown bottle for cream liqueurs was in supermarkets and see what flavours are been “several approaches from Asia, to protect the cream, but you can now being teamed with chocolate. “If people Herbal Chocolate particularly China. There’s very get UV coating on the bottle. Cream’s like chocolate so much why should it not 40ml Mozart Dry strong growth in all things dairy 1 BL Tabu Absinth a beautiful colour and it’s a beautiful work with liquid?” in China”. Dry liquid. When you take the caramel While Mozart is jumping on the back It remains to be seen if any 40ml Mozart Gold out and let the product live on its own of chocolate companies’ marketing in 6 rote Pfefferkörner brand can challenge the Baileys’ it allows bartenders to play and add countries such as Australia and Japan, 2 medium Salbeiblätter dominance, but it is heartening to see garnishes. Caramel-coloured cream other cream liqueurs are finding other innovation in the category. DI

Changing places Back in May, William Grant & Sons acquired C&C’s spirits brands for €300m, including Carolans Irish cream. Euromonitor senior alcoholic drinks analyst Jeremy Cunnington says the liqueurs portfolio “at the very least gives the company extra distribution strength in these markets”. He continues: “The category is expected to achieve a CAGR of only 1% (6 million litres) and is dominated by Diageo’s Baileys Irish Cream. This, in itself, could offer an opportunity for growth by taking advantage of Baileys’ maturity in many of the largest cream-based liqueur regions, such as the US, the UK and Spain, and taking volumes away from the brand. “William Grant’s extra distribution strength in key markets such as the US and the UK will give an extra push to Carolans and the other liqueur brands, which C&C could not provide.” Earlier this year KWV acquired Wild Africa Cream from Wild Cape Liqueurs, to form part of its international wine and spirits portfolio. KWV had already been responsible for the marketing and distribution of the brand in Africa for several years. “We are excited to have Wild Africa on board and expect it to perform considerably well in South Africa, Africa and Europe. The brand is both unique and exotic with an African appeal”, says Werner Swanepoel, global brand director for Spirits & Liqueurs at KWV. KWV says of the caramel cream liqueur: “An advanced blending process combines fresh, fine cream with carefully distilled spirit, yielding a light-textured, easy-drinking, exotic cream liqueur.

SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 31 Bordeaux Wines Tomorrow’s

CIVB/Philippe Roy

he excitement and furore Andrew Catchpole reports on the surrounding the ’09 en primeur campaign, on importance of a new CIVB initiative to shape the back of an already eulogised vintage with its the future of Bordeaux wines Taccompanying eye-watering prices, masks a very different reality for the broader Bordeaux wine industry. The 130-page document, which nation such as Australia than the Beyond the glamour of superlative proposes a three-year plan to revitalise traditionally reticent Bordelais. wines from the top estates lies a region Bordeaux, outlines 24 measures, Haushalter, and the high-profile, where recent economic events have including eight key and five emergency Bordeaux industry-wide steering committee behind dealt a severe blow to exports and measures. It is a strategic response has been led Bordeaux Tomorrow, believes these compounded and exposed structural designed to cut low-quality (over) by the top measures, if fully adopted, can grow flaws, leading to open talk of crisis and production, boost quality production chateaux Bordeaux from a €3.4bn industry (of a radical examination of how Bordeaux and revamp Bordeaux’s brand image as wines, which 40% is exported) to a €4.6bn can put its house in order. a whole. but the industry over the next five to eight years The recent release of Bordeaux At its core are the twin objectives (CIVB). Tomorrow – The Reconquest, of radically reducing the sub-€2 bulk Grand Crus At the same time, Bordeaux will be an industry-wide Le Conseil production (by up to two-thirds) to halt account for marketed as a dynamic region, with a Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux- damage to Bordeaux’s quality image, only 3% of wide range of wine styles, increasingly coordinated steering document that while ratcheting up higher quality the offering produced by a younger, outward- addresses the issues affecting the trade production by up to 12% across more looking generation, with clear tiers and charts a course forward, coincides premium wines. of wines (not dissimilar to Australia’s with the election of Georges Haushalter The scope of this generally well- Alain four tiers or categories for marketing Sichel as new president of the CIVB. His stated received strategy marks a radical shift federation purposes), with greater emphasis on aim is to “address the challenges faced by in openness and a drive towards greater De negotiant the sustainability inherent in the widely the Bordeaux Wine Industry due to the industry cooperation of a type more embraced agriculture raisonée and a clear global economic crisis”. typically associated with a producing message of quality backed by  p34 september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 33 increased anti-counterfeiting measures. The industry is also being encouraged to create more and stronger brands. At the time of writing Haushalter was unavailable for comment, but CIVB general manager Roland Feredj outlined the commercial urgency of tackling Bordeaux’s own economic malaise. “The major challenge is to win back market share that has been lost in traditional northern European countries, including the domestic market, which is essential, with a customised approach to each market,” says Feredj. He adds that an important element of future marketing lies in recognising that the higher end wines, categories dubbed “art” and “exploration”, are distinguished from the “fun” and “basic” segments “in respect of which international competition is more intense”.

Global image “This is a very good beginning, stating clearly the challenges Bordeaux faces and trying to give some answers, but the CIVB cannot do everything by itself and has to be supported by private actions,” /Francois Ducasse CIV B /Francois says Jean-Baptiste Bourotte of JB Auby, also frontman for the Bordeaux Oxygene the most basic Bordeaux wine and realign Harvesting in Pessac Leognan who will receive both government and marketing grouping of 20 dynamic, the focus clearly on quality. industry assistance in restructuring forward-looking estates. “Bordeaux has been led by the top (meaning either grubbing up, improving “We need to revive a global image of chateaux wines, but the Grand Crus or effectively declassifying low quality dynamism, set a leading and qualitative account for only 3% of the offering,” says production), recognise there is little image in new markets, reinforce Sichel. “Bordeaux has 10,000 growers alternative in the current climate. marketing on mid-range petit chateaux and 400 negociants and we need to both “If Bordeaux tried to do this 10 years – explaining the variety and why the relate the Bordeaux magic that consumers ago there is no way it would have been price-to-quality ratio is good in this range paying between €8 and €15 in France accepted,” says Sichel. “Now, with – and eliminate the very basic offering would recognise and eliminate quite large everyone feeling the pinch and prices for that is neither in tune with Bordeaux’s volumes of entry-level Bordeaux.” Bordeaux bulk so low, everyone is open image or competitive.” Sichel agrees that Bordeaux Tomorrow to new ideas and recognises the urgent Bourotte highlights a problem Feredj presents a “carrot of inducement, devoid need for change.” touches on and one that Bordeaux of legislative stick”, but says the growers, The Sichel brothers It’s a point echoed by Philippe Tomorrow attempts to address – namely Laqueche, managing director of Yvon that Bordeaux is a complex and varied Mau. “In the middle of a deep crisis region, where it is more accurate to it’s much easier to persuade people to talk about the “top, mid-range and think afresh,” he says. “There has also entry-level wines”, but historically has been a huge change of generation in little clear differentiation in terms of the Bordeaux vineyards, with 25% of helping consumers navigate through its wineries now in the hands of a younger, various levels of offering. “The CIVB has more outward-looking generation, and identified four tiers – ‘art’, ‘exploration’, both the money and will are there for ‘fun’ and ‘basic’ – of which the ‘basic’ restructuring. So I think we are at a very would at some point have to switch to important turning point.” ‘fun’ or disappear,” says Bourotte. Alain Sichel who, in addition to Viticultural changes heading up the eponymous negociant Laqueche highlights the viticultural house Domaine Sichel, is on Bordeaux’s changes that will underpin the revamped steering committee in his capacity as marketing strategies for the region. president of the Federation de Negociant, Viticulture is very important, the starting is convinced of the need to “disappear” Claude Lada/agence Class Bordeaux 2009 point to answering the big question of how

34 Drinks International Bordeaux Wines

new strategy in the world of wine. Look to Europe and domestic France. “We South Africa or Australia and many other mustn’t forget that the French market is regions of production besides and it seems still a land of opportunity, even if it is a as if everyone is now chasing the premium stable or declining market, and Bordeaux ground where better margins and a more is still a strong leader in this market,” marketable image are to be found. continues Laqueche. What perhaps singles out Bordeaux, “And there are still a lot of though – and will be crucial to its success opportunities in our traditional European or otherwise in communicating this to the markets, such as the UK, Germany and consumer – is its heritage of producing Belgium, where we are more and more a lion’s share of the world’s great wines. focused on higher quality Bordeaux, But as Sichel says: “Why would a new while the US and Canada are also good wine consumer spend €10-€15 on a for Bordeaux and we as a company are good bottle of Bordeaux wine if they investing there.” have tried a €4-€5 bottle and simply found it – at best – OK?” Roland Feredj Growth markets Laqueche, though, is fully aware of the Continuing shift? possibilities in big growth markets such This revised-look Bordeaux, gearing The major as Hong Kong and mainland China up dynamically for a brave new future, challenge where he says the main challenge is also begs the question as to whether the is to win “not to go too fast, ensure the right region – not least given the economic back market distribution is developed, and ensure that stagnation that continues to plague its share that exports are built from a solid base.” traditional markets and the contrasting has been Sichel also cautions against plunging growth in Asia and elsewhere – will headlong into emerging markets, again continue to shift its sights more towards lost in taking Hong Kong and China as an emerging markets in terms of its middle- traditional example where sales of Bordeaux are ground wines. northern doubling year on year. Questioned on the near future in terms European “New and emerging markets are of the balance of marketing globally, countries full of potential for Bordeaux, but it is Bordeaux will decrease its volume of lower the CIVB’s Feredj stresses Bordeaux’s important, even with the boom we see quality production while increasing its traditional markets remain a key focus in in such markets, to ensure that these volume of higher quality wines,” he says. its growth strategy. Roland markets deliver value for Bordeaux,” “We are going to be both more strict “The Bordeaux wine industry will Feredj he says. CIVB and more ambitious in terms of quality not make the mistake of neglecting or “We have seen companies in China control and, with more and more of abandoning its traditional markets and wanting to import large quantities of Bordeaux given over to sustainable and the world’s principal wine market, in Bordeaux at a low price and this is also even organic wines, we know a lot more terms of transactions, culture and something that Bordeaux Tomorrow is about the importance of the link between high per-capita consumption, remains looking at avoiding.” what we do in the vineyards and our Europe,” continues Feredj. He does, Shifting the course of a €3.4bn business.” however, concede that “export markets industry, and one as segmented and Of course, to decrease production of outside of Europe are essential in terms of diverse as Bordeaux, clearly presents a unprofitable entry-level wines, stabilise value and increasing wine consumption”, monumental challenge. Attempting to the prices of any remaining better quality and thus an increasingly important factor do this through value growth of up to bulk production, and increase production in Bordeaux’s future. 25% in less than a decade would be an and sales of premium wines is hardly a “We need to be careful not to kill the impressive result by any standards. Golden Chicken,” is how Laqueche puts But the real value of Bordeaux Top 10 Bordeaux it, referring to the traditional markets of Jean-Baptiste Bourotte Tomorrow lies not in its ambitious Export Markets by projections, but in the fact that it has Volume 2009 been written at all. Bordeaux exports “We need to put behind us any Global Total (all wines) 1,547,881hl (All figures CIVB) internal factions and jealousies and 1 Germany 251,901hl Total Bordeaux exports declined year-on-year to €1.271bn to April 2010. collaboratively pull the whole Bordeaux 2 Belgium 232,574hl This represents a 17% value decline, with the European Union markets 3 United Kingdom 197,159hl ship forward,” says Sichel. “The whole 4 China 136,765hl down 13% by volume and 22% by value. of Bordeaux is a powerful thing, but 5 United States 115,856hl During the same period, total exports outside of the European Union individually we can have no effect at all.” 6 Japan 115,527hl grew by 2% volume, but declined 12% in value. The conversion of much talk into a black- 7 Canada 68,675hl The United States was down 21% in volume, but Canada up 4%. and-white document, open and honest in 8 Switzerland 58,484hl China was the mainstay of this divergence in trends between Europe its appraisal of the Bordeaux Wine Industry 9 Netherlands 58,258hl and the rest of the world, with an 86% increase in volume, while exports and what it needs to do, is an historic step Hong Kong 10 42,473hl to Hong Kong grew 29% in volume and 75% in value. forward for this most historical of major Source: CIVB wine-producing regions. DI september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 35 t’s just after eight o’clock on a Saturday morning. It has snowed again overnight but crippling temperatures mean the new snow has already frozen on top of the old,I making the 5m walk to our garage a slow and treacherous one. The garage doesn’t have any heating, so I’m wearing a coat and hat, and I’m feeling shabby. Not hungover exactly – more wearied and fuggy from weeks of Dominic Roskrow shares the constant whisky tasting. Before me are eight whiskies – not very good ones – icy trials and tribulations of writing and unwelcoming, rejected samples from another day. My task is simple: I have to a tome about the world’s best rescue three of them and write nice things about them and, as we’re having a rare whiskies family day out today, I have about an hour to do it. And I’m struggling. I’m nine weeks into a book-writing marathon and three weeks away from deadline. I’m on schedule, having tasted and written about 600 of the 750 whiskies destined for the book. But I have hit the writers’ Brought to version of the wall marathon runners are said to encounter. I’m tired and cold and miserable and too far away from the finishing line to feel invigorated. I’ve run out of things to say. Not surprising really: you try to find 750 different ways to describe a glass of alcohol made with just grain, yeast and water. Then I hear the news that British comedian Eddie Izzard has completed 43 marathons in 51 days. Now that’s a real achievement, I think. He’s funny, intelligent, popular and politically It all seemed to make so much more with the Conservative politician Norman minded, I think. If he stood for sense back then. I blame the whisky. Tebbit is a step too far for a whisky book Parliament, could he be Britain’s first For a journalist nothing quite matches published at the back end of 2010. transvestite prime minister, I wonder? I writing a book. The chance to do a big And, of course, the editor edits, which reach for the laptop and start typing... personal book such as The World’s Best basically means spending each working You’ll find that particular slab of Whiskies is the writing equivalent of That day trying to make the author look good genius (or utter nonsense – your choice) climbing Everest. Only without getting fit afternoon – or, failing that, at least better – and in the Canadian section of my book, The or doing any proper preparation. That’s the family helping him or her avoid the affliction World’s Best Whiskies – 750 Unmissable part of the problem really; you’re on your watched which I call UMS – Unpublished Myopia Drams From Tennessee to Tokyo, own without a guide. No doubt there are The Sound Syndrome. This affects all writers and published at the end of October. When it hundreds of books giving tips on how to Of Music is the affliction whereby you can read comes to the bizarre, it’s not alone, either. write a book, but you’re too busy writing the same piece of unpublished prose 10 Among the 288 pages of malts, blends to read them. and I burst times and not see a glaring error, but the and bourbons you’ll find a stinging attack Actually you’re not entirely alone. You into tears moment it goes to print it screams out on English rugby fans, an appreciation of do have a team. There’s an editor, who is during every so loudly it might as well be in bright tights-wearing Leicester City legend Keith your one link with reality. He or she will song, such red capital letters. There should be a Weller; tales of sailing the west coast of offer you advice, support and criticism, was the well special word for this phenomenon – Scotland while listening to Alabama 3’s guiding you on your journey as you of emotion you’d think there would be given that U Don’t Dans 2 Tekno; an explanation as travel from the depths of despair to the bottled up it affects writers – and few of us who to why celebrity journalist Piers Morgan heights of glory and back again. There write and edit our own copy are immune thinks sending off an international will be tired and emotional late-night inside to it. But it’s at its most vicious when it footballer is better than sex; an account telephone conversations, tetchy debates affects a book. A dose of UMS in a daily of how Jesse James is linked to the over whether a story is as funny without newspaper is forgotten about within 24 bourbon industry; and an argument as to the swear words or not, and diplomatic hours. In a book it lives with you for why Jon Bon Jovi is a good bloke. explanations as to why a 1983 encounter years.

36 Drinks International How To Write A Book On Scotch

All of which makes the editor very Once I’d finished with the inbox I’d seems surreal, particularly the time I important. He or she is the team manager. write up tasting notes or features for the spent in Kentucky in late January. While The author’s the captain and star striker, book, organise interviews or visits, and I was there the Democrats lost the seat and there are a number of researchers, try to keep abreast of my bread-and- which Edward Kennedy had held, almost marketing types and admin people butter freelance work. (Not that easy. certainly from a protest vote against who make up the rest of the team. Oh, One colleague who has just written a Barack Obama’s universal healthcare and then there’s the publisher, the club book completely forgot a commission I’d bill. That very night I went with Beam’s chairman who you meet when you first given him – an expensive £300 mistake whiskey professor Bernie Lubbers and a sign up and then hope you don’t have to to make.) couple of friends to the Maker’s Mark speak to again until she’s got your book By about 6pm I’d be set to start tasting Lounge, where we ordered three Old in one hand and a glass of champagne in and I’d continue to do that until perhaps Grand-Dad 114 Proof bourbons. Our the other. 8.30 or 9pm, breaking to help with the waiter went to get some water but he For The World’s Best Whiskies our children’s bed and bath time. Finally I’d didn’t come back. Then we noticed he team fell into a neat rhythm early on. eat an evening meal, watch the news had collapsed by the door of the kitchen. The book’s designer lives in Los Angeles, and fall asleep, ready to start the whole They sat him up, undid his shirt, tried so my editor would start work early process again the next day. to revive him, but as the minutes ticked afternoon and continue until midnight, The book was due to be finished by by it was clear he was in trouble. By the firing off emails to me from 9pm to March 31 and I wrote the last tasting time the paramedics arrived he was dead. midnight with tasks, observations, notes on the morning of April 2, Good A distressed and shocked manager told requests for more copy and so on. I’d get Friday. That afternoon the family us that he had been complaining of chest up at about 6am and start work almost watched The Sound Of Music and I burst pains but couldn’t afford to go and get straightaway, dealing with last night’s into tears during every song, such was the medical help. He was 34 and had two flurry of emails, fuelled only by grapefruit well of emotion bottled up inside. young children. , strong coffee and pots and pots of Now, as I wait for the book to come Moments like that help you focus and peach yoghurt. out, the first three months of the year give everything a sense of proportion. DI september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 37 Beefeater 24 Tea Salon, The enthusiam around the category Brassaii, hasn’t subsided and gin is awash Gin’swith new launches,the finds Lucything Britner

The enthusiam around the category hasn’t subsided and gin is awash Gin’swith new launches, finds the Lucy Britner thing

in lane is quickly has enjoyed a 30% sales increase since ‘master class’, ‘training programme’ or becoming a motorway. 2009. ‘cocktail competition’. The London Drys and He says: “If I were to note a particular Here’s a break down of launches and the New Western Drys concern it would be brands taking a brand activity from arguably the most are in the fast lane, with vodka like approach to marketing their exciting category in drink. theG latest wave of exotic botanical gins in gins (all pizzazz, little substance), when, hot pursuit. in my opinion, the only way to gain New gins Both boutique and craft brands are the traction in the gin market is to launch On the more exotic botanicals front, proud owners of a new, faster engine but with a polished and comprehensive ability Mediterranean spirit Gin Mare launched the big brands have taken to the slow to educate the consumer about not only earlier this year, under Global Premium lane. Gordon’s, Seagram’s Beefeater and their product, but the category, itself.” Brands. At 42.3% the drink is described Bombay all saw volumes slide in 2009. Gin’s resurgence is frequently attributed as super premium and botanicals Seagram’s is down 10.4% to 3.03 million to the cocktail renaissance, which is all include Arbequina olives, rosemary, 9 litres cases, Beefeater is down 7.1% to about educating bartenders on the whys basil and thyme. All of the botanicals 2.24 million 9 litre cases and Gordon’s and wherefores of creating great cocktails are macerated for 36 hours, distilled is down 2.3% to 4.2 million 9 litre cases with the right drinks. And gin launches separately and blended by hand, except for 2009. have reflected this – as each new launch the citrus element – Seville oranges, Despite these figures, the buzz around appears, so too does its unique selling lemons and madarins – which are the category hasn’t stopped and launches point. Be it an abv, an unusual botanical macerated in clay jars for a year. are abundant. Activity is in both London or a return to a more simple recipe, the Following its September 2009 UK Dry and less traditional recipes and this gin marketers are carving out niches and debut, Geranium Gin, which features of has lead to growing concern about over- shouting them from the roof tops. course, geranium, is set to launch in the saturation. Category outsider J Wray & The established brands continue to US this October. Nephew’s Peter Martin says: “Is gin in push the education side of things and Henrik Hammer, MD and creator of danger of doing a vodka?” whether the category is riding on the Geranium Gin, said: “Geranium Gin Martin’s concerns are shared by New coattails of the cocktail or vice versa, has been busy finding distributors in the Western Dry pioneer Ryan Magarian you’d be hard pushed to find a brand major countries in Europe during the first from US brand Aviation, whose brand campaign that doesn’t include the phrases year and I believe that we have achieved

38 Drinks International Gin Update our goal by having made distribution be available in the US by October. The blackcurrant and elderflower. agreements in nine countries so far. One suggested retail price for a 75cl bottle will If I were On the competition trail in the US, of the major reasons for why we have be approximately $40.00. to note a Bombay Sapphire is holding the final been able to penetrate so many markets particular of its fourth Bombay Sapphire & GQ so fast has been the steady focus on the Established brands concern it Most Inspired Program. 500 cocktail business, doing a lot of seminars The Hendrick’s Horseless Carriage would be bartenders from across the US were and master classes, and having joined the of Curiosities – a converted 19th brands taking challenged to create a Bombay Sapphire most significant trade shows. The next century rail carriage stuffed full of cocktail. The finalists from each city big step will be the USA, which was why machines that clink and whirr, is to a vodka like will travel to Las Vegas for an event we made a pre-launch at the Tales of attend London Cocktail Week from approach to sponsored by the US Bartenders Guild, the Cocktails this July. This lead to the 11-17 October. It will be based in marketing where the winners will be selected. These interest from potential distributors in six Clerkenwell and in addition to offering their gins top-ten bartenders will be featured in the states, and I anticipate that we will have sampling opportunities for the trade and US edition of GQ. ryan availability over there before the end of consumers, will be offering a series of magarian Also in the Bacardi stable, Oxley has October.” tastings and some very VIP dinners on aviation launched into the high end on-premise In June, “small batch, big juniper” board the carriage, created by Bompas & gin in London, California, Las Vegas and Edinburgh Gin emerged from the stable Parr, famous for their jelly creations. New York. More recent launches include of Sheep Dip whisky maker Spencerfield Hendrick’s is very much about Boston, Seattle, Washington, Portland, Spirit Co. Its USP - the gin is distilled experiential marketing and gimmicks Chicago, and Miami. There are plans to outside of Scotland, using Scottish grain include a vintage van serving Hendrick’s launch in Canada in October 2010 and in spirit and classic gin botanicals and then and tonics and the Hendrick’s Gin Australia in early 2011. The unique cold Fancy a dip? Hendrick’s has shipped to Scotland for the addition of Bathtub, a roll top bath serving coming out of still can only produce 240 bottles per day Scottish botanicals like juniper, heather Hendrick’s and tonic from its taps. its taps so it’s quality over quantity for Oxley. DI and milk thistle. It is bottled in Edinburgh Also one for a quirk, Beefeater 24 at 43% abv. hosted 400 guests at a Tea Salon event In the same month, two drinks at Brassaii in Toronto, Canada. Brand enthusiasts launched Foxdenton London ambassador Dan Warner created tea- Dry Gin. According to the company, inspired gin cocktails, including English this is the response to the lack of high Breakfast, Lapsang Martinez, Almond strength choices among gins. At 48% Iced Tea and 24 Fruit Tea Cup. abv, it’s not for the faint-hearted and the The Tea Salon at Brassaii in Toronto botanicals include juniper, coriander, follows a series of events throughout May angelica, orris root and lime. and June in Paris and selected Spanish Also sticking to a traditional London cities. Spanish activity also included a Dry recipe, London-based Berry Bros and Midnight Labyrinth in Madrid. The Rudd’s No.3 London Dry Gin launched 750sqm maze paid tribute to the 350th in March. It contains three fruits and anniversary of London’s famous Vauxhall three spices. Simon Berry, chairman of Gardens, in which Europe’s largest BB&R, says: “No.3 is unmistakably vertical maze existed. This bolsters traditional London Dry Gin. By Beefeater’s ‘Forever London’ credentials. traditional we mean gin that tastes as gin Beefeater hosted Forever London events should, with juniper at its heart.” in various markets including Turkey, Some gins are even branching out into Serbia and Bulgaria. The theme for Serbia vintages. Cognac Ferrand has launched was punk rock, for Bulgaria it was 80’s Citadelle Gin Reserve Vintage 2010 music and fashion and for Turkey it was (44%abv), its third vintage aged gin. London fashion. Turkish designer Zeynep While this is the third year that Citadelle Tosun visited London for inspiration and Gin Reserve has been created, this is the returned to Turkey with her Beefeater first time that the cellar master has made collection, which was presented in a gin with a combination of botanicals Istanbul. intentionally designed for oak aging – If that wasn’t enough, Beefeater 24 violet and iris for flower aromatics and also launched a summer variant called grains of paradise for spice. Beefeater London Dry Summer Gin, in The gin was bottled in June and will May. Summer botanicals include hibiscus,

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 39 Tequila Update

Tequila is growing up, or that is what the Brands Update major brand owners would like. Christian Olmeca As well as working with the Davis takes a look at the once hedonist likes of Henry Besant and Dre Masso (see overleaf) to promote drinkers’ favourite tipple and the move to more sophisticated drinking of tequila, the sip and savour rather than shoot and slam Olmeca brand team at Pernod Ricard, has the Tahona Society (Tahona is said to be an ancient method used to produce more flavoursome tequila. It is used to make Olmeca From shots to Altos), Olmeca’s global community of bartenders, and recently there was the 2010 Omeca Margarita Contest which was won by South African Kurt Schlechter. His prize is a week in New York this month, where he will present his winning cocktail at Mayahuel. The company also tells Drinks International that it has a couple of brand innovations that it will be launching later this year.

Patrón games , the premium tequila brand, igures vary on tequila’s With all the big players in – Diageo reports a string of new listings, with recent performance with with Jose Cuervo, Don Julio, Pernod Alcobrands in Belgium, several new nothing apparently available Ricard with Olmeca, Brown Forman with duty free listings on airlines, and its after 2008. The Distilled Herradura and El Jimador and Beam domestic and duty free business in Spirits Council of the US global with Sauza – gaining worldwide Asia apace. F(DISCUS) says Mexico’s most famous distribution is not a problem. In the US and Canada it announced spirit tripled in volume between 1995 and Diageo for example has recently earlier that Patrón is now the 2008 from 104.3 to 309.1million litres. unveiled a significant initiative for Don ‘presenting sponsor’ of the American While the International Wine and Spirits Julio. ‘Luxury Drop’ aims to position the Le Mans Series racing. It has also Record (IWSR) puts the figure at 22.99m brand as the “world’s first luxury tequila” launched a new Facebook application nine-litre cases following compound using some of the best known bartenders called the Patrón Cocktail Lab: annual growth rate of 6.5% from 2003 in the world to produce a range of Don prnewswire.com/news-releases/ to 2008. Julio-based cocktails. It recently took patron-tequila-enlists-cocktail- You takes your choice. Either way, over a complex near Athens for its aficionados-to-participate-in- tequila is growing and with more agave World Class competition and also mixology-think-tank-98232799.html available for distilling, the emphasis launched ‘Luxury Drop’. First off was the “Patron Margarita, has determinedly switched to the more Don Julio global brand Deconstructed”, a challenge aimed premium 100% agave version. Global manager Luis Rivas tells Drinks at pitting cocktail lovers against each volume sales surpassed 52% of the total International: “Tequila has grown other. Using the perfect margarita sector in 2007. pretty fast globally. Nevertheless, the size recipe as inspiration, and three The potential for increased global sales is still small compared to other spirits versions of the margarita created by is self evident. At the moment the US and categories. top mixologists, Patron asks visitors Mexico account for 84% of volume with “We need to educate people so we can to re-imagine America’s number one 11m and 8m cases. The drop to the third expand the growth. We are looking at cocktail in “their own, unique way”. market, Germany at more than 400,000 large cities to create an image of ultra Next up are: the “Patron  p42 cases speaks volumes. premium tequila.  p42 september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 41 Tequila Update

 p41 Greenmarket” challenge and Blanco) 70cl will be due into market in the “Patron Salt Concierge” challenge. October and Sauza Silver 50cl will be due round about December. Herradura’s double barrel reposado Cazadores celebrates Tequila Herradura, which claims independence day to be one of the oldest 100% blue Tequila Cazadores is celebrating agave tequila brands - launched 1870, September 16 as the bicentennial of rolled out an exclusive “Buy-the- the ‘Aniversario de la Independencia’: Barrel program”, which gave tequila the day that Mexico declared its connoisseurs the opportunity to order independence from Spain. their own Herradura Double Barrel The brand has come up with the Reposado. “Cazadores Bandera Shot Drink” to Once chosen, the tequila is placed celebrate. It features three shots using Permanent in bottles adorned with personalised the colours of the Mexican flag: marking: labels, including the purchaser’s Get tattoed, Cazadores Bandera Shot Drink name, number and bottling date. The courtesy of 1 part Cazadores Blanco Hornitos barrel itself then is varnished, branded 1 part lime juice and shipped with a framed certificate US markets. The blanco and reposado come up with an authentic design. 1 part of ownership. Price per barrel is come in a 50ml, 375ml, The winning design will be Shake and strain each ingredient approximately $10,000 and the order 750ml, 1-litre and 1.75ml bottles. incorporated into 1,000 limited edition into three separate shot glasses. process takes about 45-60 days. bottles that will be available in bars Serve the three glasses in order of the Tattoed for Hornitos next month. colours on the Mexican flag: Green El Jimador has new packaging Maxxium UK’s campaign for Hornitos (lime juice) White (Cazadores Blanco) El Jimador, which is said to be the tequila has been to target and Sauza changes Red (tomato juice). best selling tequila in Mexico, recently interact with a more niche audience of In the run up to Christmas, the most announced new packaging. “culturally creative consumers”. notable new merchandising initiatives Ocho doing well in UK on trade Made by sister brand Casa Through a competition to design a to the Sauza brand will be changing Ocho is performing well in the UK on- Herradura, el Jimador, which is a 100% limited edition bottle, Hornitos asked the labels and names for its Sauza trade, according to Stuart Ekins, head agave tequila, is distributed in select the tattoo community in the UK to range. Sauza Silver (formerly Sauza of premium spirits at Global Brands,

“We are targeting 25 year olds and Mexico, is at the drawing board – and above. We want to take tequila but that is why he took the job. to another level, more sophisticated, “I’m six months into the job. I took showing heritage and ultra premium the role because I see a huge growth quality,” he says. opportunity for tequila. It is very under Hence the Luxury Drop is aimed developed and this is what I have signed at mixologists in cities such as San up for,” says Gutierrez. Francisco, New York, London. Rivas “Tequila comes with a certain amount and his team aim to train bartenders, of baggage. It has been drunk by some including telling them what tequila is all of the poorest consumers: students and about and get them to see it in a “more first time jobbers. So, the opportunity to elevated way”. expand margins is extremely limited,” “We want Don Julio to show a he says. different face for tequila. We do not want “As the world’s number one tequila it to be too serious. It is not cognac,’ says we have an obligation, duty to expand,” Rivas. says Gutierrez. “The industry needs to On location: Olmeca filming for Jose Cuervo while Gutierrez does the He sees tequila-drinking American create ‘pull’. We need to create consumer its documentaries explaining desk work in preparation to formulating the origins of tequila and how business travellers and affluent tourists, demand for the category. There is best to serve it a global strategy. staying in top international hotels and ignorance at the consumer end due to Pernod Ricard tequila brand Olmeca using elite bars, as the best sales people a lack of proper international dollars has also been working closely with and ambassadors for tequila. spent.” bartenders to make a series of short films. Emerging markets for tequila are seen Gutierrez sees opportunities in The series of five documentaries feature as: Greece, Spain, UK, Brazil, Colombia countries where a single white spirit Henry Besant and Dre Masso from and Asia Pacific, specifically Australia dominates, such as Brazil (cachaça), the Worldwide Cocktail Club as they and Japan. Russia (vodka), China (), Japan travel through the origins of Tequila. While Rivas is underway his Diageo (shõchu˜), or Korea (soju). He also sees the Made on location in London and across colleague, Peter Gutierrez, who looks ritual of tequila with salt as “unique to Mexico it will be launched from now after Jose Cuervo, the world’s best-selling tequila, part of its fabric and DNA”. to November onto various platforms, tequila brand, outside of North America So, there is no major brand activity including the Tahona Society’s Facebook

42 Drinks International which develops, markets and serves other than Annual conference distributes the tequila in the UK. Margarita, he suggests: 15 September 2010 Said to be 100% Blue Agave “Other serves that work tequila and the first tequila to well for Ocho’s flavour bear a vintage mark, he says: profile are the Batanga “Designed with the bartender in (Ocho mixed with cola, Leading figures from the wine and mind, the bottle has won product a squeeze of lime and spirit trade will discuss the challenges design awards for its easy handling a salt rim served in and opportunities in the UK the WSTA capabilities. In the UK, Ocho is a tall glass), and viewed as a pouring brand, whereas the Paloma (Ocho Conference, to be held in London on in the US it is regarded as an ultra- mixed with fresh September 15th. premium tequila. grapefruit, gomme Looking to create interesting and soda).” Among those giving a global perspective on profitable growth in the UK market will be Ocho: designed with the Beam Global’s Managing Director Europe, bartender in mind Jonathan Stordy. With a panel of speakers including John Beard, Chief Executive, Whyte & McKay Ltd and Chris Mason, Managing Director, First Drinks Brands Ltd.

On the subject of the UK retail landscape and how companies are adapting to changes, both in terms of trading environment and customers expectations, we will hear from Majestic Wines CEO Steve Lewis; Asda’s recently appointed , Wines and Spirits Category Director Adrian McKeon and Richard Cochrane, Off Trade Director, Bibendum. page, YouTube, Vimeo, the Olmeca and Tahona Society websites, iTunes, as well The conference, hosted by WSTA Chairman as various cocktail blogs. Tim How, will also hear the latest market The last film highlights how bars in analysis from research houses Nielsen, CGA London are becoming more sophisticated and Wine Intelligence and an outline from with tequila by serving it in stemmed glasses, encouraging consumers to sip Jeremy Beadles, WSTA Chief Executive on rather than shoot. what impact of the new government is Stuart Ekins, head of premium spirits having on the wine and spirit trade. at Global Brands, which develops, markets and distributes a range of drinks in the UK including Ocho tequila, says: Contact Louise Vaux to book your “Tequila has benefited from a real boost ticket on 020 7089 3874 or email in the on-trade, as consumers continue [email protected] to demand authentic, premium brands and their product knowledge continues as the to evolve.” world's WSTA Member £135.00 + VAT Nevertheless, there is a down side number WSTA Non Member £270.00 + VAT – there is always a down side. As one brand, Ben McFarland concludes in Drinks we have an International’s major feature on tequila obligation, back in January, the fact is shoot & slam, down-in-one, is still where tequila a duty to is at for the vast majority. Yes, there are expand and Palomas for the scrubbed peter party goers aspiring for sophistication Gutierrez but tequilas being sniffed and sipped diageo/ jose cuervo still seems a twinkle in many a tequila marketer and brand ambassador’s eye. DI

SEPTEMBER 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 43 BARZONE

BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS CO

Baa-tenders master Passion play Lamb’s To celebrate people’s passion for their favourite drinks, stirthemix. com has launched a never-ending quiz that seeks to separate the truly Lamb’s Spiced Rum has passionate from the merely avid sipper. announced the winner of its The World’s Longest Drink Quiz is a mix of questions on production Master of the Blend competition. processes, history, geography and mixology. The quiz also The final of the competition encourages players to add their own questions. As it launched, the took place at Alma de Cuba quiz featured a bank of 2,500 member-contributed questions. bar in Liverpool, where UK rum Sean Davidson, co-founder of stirthemix.com, said: “The World’s ambassador Ian Burrell attended Longest Drink Quiz is merely our first step at engaging drink lovers as a judge. Winner Alex Proudfoot with and we have other fascinating social games in the pipeline. We intend Alex Proudfoot from Raoul’s Rob Worsley, Sue Beck and to replicate your drinking environment online and will strive, not only Ian Burrell Bar in Oxford earned the title through our own creativity, but also through those engaged on our Master of the Blend with his Any Porter ingredient. Judges chose six finalists platform, to keep delivering exciting apps.” In A Storm cocktail in the semi-final, who went on to create their own blend followed by his distinctive rum blend in of rum from a selection of infusions. the final. Proudfoot’s winning blend consisted Second place was awarded to Steve of 20ml 7 Year Old, 15ml ginger, 20ml Canada celebrates Wright from Oloroso in Edinburgh, with vanilla, 20ml orange, 10ml caramel, third place going to Tim Barnes from 10ml lime and 8ml cardamom. best matches Harvey Nichols in Manchester. Sue Beck, senior brand manager The 10 semi-finalists, comprising for Lamb’s Spiced Rum said: “We’re The Canadian celebration of all that shakes and stirs is set for October 16-18. winners from each city in the regional looking to put the winning cocktail This year’s Art of the Cocktail festival is to feature a cocktail kitchen – a cocktail heats, were invited to create a cocktail recipes on the Lamb’s Spiced Rum and food pairing session – and Toronto bar chef champion David Wolowidnyk will using Lamb’s Spiced Rum as the main website.” present his award-winning Herbaceous Cocktail. Brands involved include Glenfiddich, Gibson’s Finest, Hendrick’s, Sailor Jerry, Taboo and Fernet Branca. The event takes place in various venues around Victoria. Visit artofthecocktail.ca for more.

Britner’s BLOG DI’s Lucy Britner tries to evoke the festival spirit here’s a car insurance advert on UK terrestrial were the ‘official’ drinks at T that shows an old hippy reminising about how festivals the festival bar and revellers used to be free and now they are really expensive. This year’s were not permitted to Big Chill festival in Herefordshire was over £150 a ticket. But enter the arena with their when you think about the number of famous bands and DJs you own alcohol. Obviously drinks brands pay a lot of get for your money, it’s not too bad. The likes of Massive Attack, money to get this much face time with the general public but MIA and Mr Scruff graced the stages over the weekend and it’s tough being told what to drink. At nearly £4 ($6.30) for a around 35,000 people became temporary residents of a deer pint of Tuborg, prices were akin to a London but without park in Eastnor Castle’s grounds. the selection. Not only that, the Gaymer’s bar had a session The drinks brands also put on a good show with Monkey of Rockaoke - like karaoke but with a live band. I’ve nothing Shoulder whisky hosting its tree house where you could have against it - I’ve done it myself and it’s great fun - but when you cocktails and make your own Monkey Shoulder t-shirts. Sailor go to a festival, you want to hear the artists you paid to listen Jerry stayed true to its roots with an ‘Ink to, not some wannabe swaying City’ where revellers who had pre-booked along to Park Life. could go and have a tattoo. For the less When you go to a Back at Sailor Jerry, the brave, Sailor Jerry staff were handing out festival, you want to cocktails were around £6.50 transfers of Norman ‘Sailor Jerry’ Collin’s hear the artists you paid but there was a selection of famous hula girl and other works. The Ink for, not some original recipes, made by City also had its own stage, where the likes wannabe swaying decent bartenders and in of We Were Promised Jetpacks, Goldhawks along to park life surroundings that felt true to and Racehorses played. what the Big Chill is about - Beer brand Tuborg and Gaymers originality.

44 Drinks International BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS COCKTAILS BEER CLUBS PEOPLE RECIPES BARTENDERS CO

KISS KISS BOOM BOOM for

Malibu is to launch its own 12-week TV show on 4Music and KISS TV in the UK. Malibu Presents Boom TV promises “fun-packed R&B evenings presented by the fabulous DJ Goldierocks, dancehall artist Mr Midas and DJ Twin B”. The show will be set in a warehouse apartment in London and guests include Professor Green, Tinchy Stryder and Roll Deep. Along with mixology features and a selection of music BOOM: Mr Midas, DJ Goldierocks and videos, the show is said to embody the fun that is integral to DJ Twin B Malibu, providing a British take on the Caribbean spirit.

Culture club Duo spread Gaucho restaurants in the UK have bolstered their Gaucho uses fresh tomato juice and cocktail word Argentinian credentials with a new cocktail menu. chimichurrisauce; the Chépirosca features freshly UK Bartenders Guild vice-president Luca The list is split into sections – Cocktails, Bloody muddled cherry tomatoes; and the Bloody Asado Cordiglieri and UKBG bartender trainer Brian & Rare and Buenos Aires Classics – and was includes roasted plum tomatoes, red pepper, Page have just delivered a bartender training devised by team Gaucho and Tato Giovannoni, fresh lemon and orange juice. course for the Transcorp Hilton Hotel in Abuja, winner of the Bartender of the Year award in The part of the menu dedicated to Buenos Nigeria. Argentina for the past 10 years. Aires Classics is inspired by the glamour of “old” Page said in a statement they were a little The redesigned Cocktail section focuses on Buenos Aires (1930-60). The cocktails include nervous as to what they would encounter but characters and symbols in Argentine terrain and the Mar del Plata, created by Enzo Antonietti, they found the hotel bar staff friendly, with great culture. Las Cumbres, Tato’s favourite cocktail, who was head bartender at the Claridge Hotel customer skills and eager to learn more about takes its inspiration from the Andes Mountains in the 1960s. With this recipe he won the IBA making quality cocktails. and translates as “top of the mountain” in world competition in 1964. The cocktail combines Page and Cordiglieri said they were amazed Spanish. It combines Sauvignon Blanc, cucumber- Plymouth gin, Noilly Prat, Benedictine, Grand at how quickly the students picked up the use of infused Cinzano Bianco and apple juice. Marnier and orange zest. the Boston Shaker. They had never used such a The Bloody & Rare section highlights the The cocktail menu is available in Gaucho’s shaker before and, after a slow start, their skills popularity of the Bloody Mary in Argentinian London restaurants, Manchester restaurant and and confidence were becoming more obvious by culture with three variations on the cocktail. The the recently opened Leeds restaurant. the day. Africa has at present only one International Bartenders Association member country and both Page and Cordiglieri expressed a hope that in years to come Nigeria will form a bartenders association and be able to apply for membership of the IBA. The week-long training ended in a cocktail competition and the winner was Omoruan Samson Murphy, who runs the hotel’s pool bar.

Tequila comes with a certain amount of baggage Buena Vida: Tequila, pink The Carino: Bison grass grapefruit juice, pineapple Peter Gutierrez vodka, fresh strawberries juice, vanilla sugar and Jose cuervo and passionfruit old fashioned bitters S PEAK E AS Y

september 2010 drinksint.com Drinks International 45 DepartureZone...

Sherry launches BOOK SHELF Glenglassaugh – A Distillery International challenge Reborn The Glenglassaugh Distillery Company has released an account The Sherry Institute of Spain has launched the 4th of the Banffshire distillery re- opening. The 118-page full colour International Copa Jerez competition. book has been written by whisky Copa Jerez is an international bi-annual competition writer Ian Buxton with a forward that aims to demonstrate sherry’s versatility as a wine by Scottish National Party leader, to pair with food. The competition is open to sous Alex Salmond. Photography is by chefs and sommeliers of all ages. Ian McIlwain. It records the history of the There is an initial round of regional competitions distillery from its establishment in and UK judges include Alexis Gauthier from Gauthier 1875, through closure and the 2008 Soho; Ronan Sayburn MS from Hotel du Vin; Isa Bal acquisition by the Scaent Group from The Fat Duck; and Charles Campion, food and and Glenglassaugh’s subsequent refurbishment and re-opening. restaurant critic for the London Evening Standard. Published in association with: The Sous chef and teams must present a menu Angel’s Share (NWP, Glasgow) of three courses, one of which must include sherry Price: £19.99 (hard cover) £14.99 as an ingredient. Each course must be paired with a (paperback) carefully chosen sherry. North American Regional winners will take their place in the grand Wine Routes final of the International Competition of Gastronomy Described as a and Sherry Pairing, which takes place between travel guide to January 19-21, 2011 in Jerez. Competing wines and vines from Napa to countries include Holland, Nova Scotia, the Germany, USA, Spain, book is a useful Japan, Belgium and tool for anyone Denmark. wanting to ‘do a Sideways’ (film For more info, email about two men who go on a wine tasting trip in Napa valley). [email protected] It features clear maps with concise descriptions of wineries in the region. A great present for a wine buff about to holiday in North America. Published by: Pavilion Books Ogle with your goggles Price: £25

Britain is obsessed with beer goggles. We all know members of the opposite sex seem more attractive after a few pints but have you ever wondered exactly why? We need to A group of students road tested a theory that alcohol suppresses our ability to be careful recognise asymmetrical faces. not to kill “We tend to prefer faces that are symmetrical,” explained Lewis Halsey of the golden Roehampton University in London. That’s well established by previous research, he chicken told ABC News. To test his theory, Halsey got sober and inebriated students to look at images of Yvon Mau, MD Philippe Laqueche, faces that were altered to make them either symmetrical or not. The teetotallers liked THE LAST WORD referring to the the even faces but the tipsy participants weren’t quite so fussy. re-positioning of Other recent beer google-wearing activities in the UK have included encouraging people Bordeaux and not forgetting to wear actual beer goggles and carry trays of drink. One council is encouraging drivers to itS traditional attempt a driving simulation game whilst wearing beer goggles, to replicate the affects of European and drink driving. domestic markets

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46 Drinks International drinksint.com september 2010