You Can Grow Your Own Table And they can both produce fruit and provide comfort in your landscape.

by Master Gardener Claudia Steen

Training grapes up the author’s n Yakima County we live in an AVA (American pergola to form cordons on the Area) known for growing amazing grapes. Growing laterals. Iyour own table grapes follows similar principles.. There are four Genera in the family: 1) vinifera has its origin in the Mediterranean and exhibits For information on upright growth—an example is Cabernet wine and the Yakima County Black Monukka table grape. 2) has its origin in Master Gardeners the United States and has trailing growth—an example is Program: Concord grapes used for juice. 3) There are hybrid varieties that include many table grapes—for example Himrod. 4) https://extension.wsu.edu/ yakima/home-garden/master- Vitis rotundifolia is from the southeast United States—an gardeners/ example is Muscadine that can be used for making wine. What are the basic characteristics of table grapes? The majority are self pollinating, they like full sun, need 150+ frost-free days, it is best to with a south or southwest exposure, if planted in rows they prefer north/south rows and they like well-drained, sandy loam soil, and rocks are good as they help retain heat. To prepare the soil, remove any weeds, then add sand and some organic matter.

1 Lateral vines growing from cordon. The next decision is how you are going to incorporate a trellis system.

Tre!is systems Trellis systems are best installed before planting, so you won’t disturb growing roots. If are to be in a row, set treated-end posts deep into the ground, and secure three to four #10-12 high-tinsel wires. You can also use an existing fence, stone wall or other natural objects, just lean plants at a 45 degree angle toward the object when planting. If you prefer a free standing arbor, it does requires more attention to pruning and training canes onto the support. The fun part is the canopy acts as a source of shade as well as delicious fruit. A favorite trellis system is to use a pergola that is over an existing patio or deck. Here you plant at the base of each post, the next year train two to three vines up each post & secure with ties, remove all lateral growth, but retain the leaves. It is important to go for length in order to establish the trunk up the post and then cordons on the lateral perimeter wood. When fully established, the cordons on the perimeter wood will produce lateral branches that can be tied to the cross pieces of wood on the pergola for shade. When it reaches the end of the cross piece, cut the end of the growing cane to contain the lateral growth.

Propagation How you acquire the grape plants can be by propagating your own if you have existing grape plants or if you know a friend with table grapes. This is done by taking cuttings

2 Canopy forming as lateral vines are during pruning in the spring, however, to fully develop the attached to cross pieces of wood on root system, it is best to keep them in pots or nursery rows pergola. for 2 years before planting at your selected location. The easier option is to buy plants from a local nursery that are already rooted. There are many varieties of seedless Table Grapes to choose. White varieties include: Himrod, Interlaken, Niagra, Perlet, Lakemont, Thompson, and Chancellor. Red varieties include: Concord, Flame, Crimson, Reliance, Canadice, Sulfolk Red, and Black Monukka. Planting grapes in the Yakima Valley is best done in March/April if bare root, or May/June if they are greenhouse plants. It is important to place plants four to eight feet apart from one another. Place the plant in the hole, cover with soil, and birm the soil around the plant. Assure an indentation is made around each plant for water to settle, and it is best to water deeply every seven to ten days (depending on the heat). This will allow development of a good root base. Fertilize with a weak balanced nitrogen in early spring on new plants, then weed around the plant, or you can place fabric cloth and rocks around the base of each plant. When watering the plants, drip irrigation is best. Emitters should be placed on each side of the plant, or you can use a soaker hose. It is best to use an in-line bilter for irrigation water but it is not necessary if house water is used. Avoid an overhead sprinkler system, as this encourages diseases such as powdery mildew. As the grapes grow there is minimal care, just allow them to grow naturally as they develop their root base. In

3 Full canopy provides shade for hot September, the plants should be harden off by water summer months. stressing—the leaves change color & drop off (defoliate). It is then best to give the plants a thorough watering in October. Young plants can have mulch placed around them to over winter, however most varieties are cold tolerant. Sorry to say, but no grapes will be produced that birst year.

Pruning If you have your plants in the ground over the winter you will see lots of vines running along the ground. Pruning is best done when vines are dormant in February or March and debinitely needs to be done before buds swell. The objectives of pruning is to establish and maintain vines in a desired shape, distribute the proper amount of wood over the vine in order to yield high quality grapes, and to regulate the amount of crop to lessen the need for thinning (grapes won’t ripen if over cropped). Pruning techniques vary, but, in general, grapes are produced from spurs that develop from one-year-old wood. There are three types of pruning: Head, Spur, and Cane pruning. Head pruning resembles an upright shrub with a vertical trunk. It doesn’t require trellising with wires, only a sturdy stake. Spur pruning produces a bilateral cordon. It is the most popular system for wine grapes and does require

4 Grapes produced from spurs on the cordon 3rd year. trellising. Cane pruning is most often done for Concord juice grapes. For Spur pruning, the second growing year is when you cut back weak and small vines and then select two strong vines. These should be tied to a stake in order to produce an upright trunk. As the vines grow, they can be bent and fastened onto the main wire. This will then form two cordons (one going right and the other left of the trunk). Each must be tied securely to the wire. When the two cordons are fully out on the wire, you can strip the leaves on the canes going up to form the trunk. Also remove any additional suckers at the base of the plant by cutting them at ground level. If anything happens to the plant, such as winter freeze, another trunk and cordons can be produced from the suckers. If you decided on planting the vines at the base of pergola posts, you let two to three canes grow up to the top of the pergola (secure the vines to the post and assure the leaves are left on). When they reach the top, the vines can be attached to the perimeter wood and allowed to grow in length. Throughout the growing season continue to water deeply once a week (depending on the weather), and fertilizing helps to establish the roots. Most likely the vines will not be producing grapes, or if they do it will be a small crop. Pruning in the 3rd year for spur pruning on trellis wires includes: making cuts at the ends of cordons to limit side growth, remove downward or right angle growth, leave

5 vertical renewal spurs evenly spaced (about 4-6 / cordon) and cut back vine to 2-4 buds on each spur. Again assure all suckers are removed from base of plant as they drain energy away from the cordons. The old vines on the trunk now should not have any leaves, and you will see rough bark developing. The cordons growing horizontally on the wires will also have rough wood evident. This year you will start getting grape production. If you chose the Pergola trellis system the same principles apply. Just a word about Grape growth progression. In the spring, bright green leaves emerge and, in time, tiny 'fetal grapes' appear as a white fragrant inblorescence and small hard green berries are seen. The green grapes grow in size, and if they are a red variety the grapes will start turning color—this is called as more green grapes turn red. The grapes continue to grow in size to bill out the cluster and the color gets deeper.

Pests and diseases At this stage in the fall, bird control may be necessary. There are many methods available and the most common birds are starlings and robins. The most common disease of grapes is Powdery Mildew which is a fungus acquired by spores carried by wind. A bine web of white threads are seen on older leaves and then on the fruit. It is important to keep the canopy open for good air circulation, there is chemical control but prevention is best by using no overhead watering. The majority of grapes are harvested in the fall. Some varieties ripen early, some mid and some late season. It is important to spot taste for sweetness. Pick the cluster by cutting the stem with a sharp, clean snip. Wash before eating and when production increases you can share or dry the less ripe grapes into the most amazing raisons. It is important to know that grape plants will live many years and provide an abundance of table grapes for you, your family, and friends to ENJOY! !

Additional help planting and caring for grape growing is usually available on university sites that have horticulture programs. One from Washington State University includes, Backyard , WSU basics: http://wine.wsu.edu/ extension/grapes-vineyards/backyard-vineyard/

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