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Miguel Torres Chile - Curicó Miguel Torres Chile - Curicó www.migueltorreschile.com Wij worden ontvangen door technisch directeur Fernando Almeda Ollé. Geschiedenis De Spaanse wijnproducent Miguel Torres begon in Chile in 1979, toen een kleine winery met 100 ha wijngaarden werd verworven in Curicó. Torres was daarmee een van de eerste buitenlandse wijnproducenten die in Chili investeerde. Sindsdien heeft Miguel Torres Chile het wijngaardbezit uitgebreid tot 445 ha. In 2010 kreeg wijnmaker Miguel Torres Maczassek, vijfde generation Torres, de leiding over het Chileense bedrijf. Wijngaarden De druiven komen voor 60% van eigen wijngaarden, de rest van de druiven wordt aangekocht bij contractboeren. Alle wijnen worden onder de noemer Fair Trade op de markt gebracht. Sommige wijngaarden zijn biologisch. De kosten daarvan zijn 25% hoger dan bij niet-biologische wijnbouw. De monocepage wijnen met het label Las Mulas zijn afkomstig van biologische wijnbouw. Vroeger werden de wijngaarden geïrrigeerd met water dat de rivieren aanvoerden vanuit de Andes, en dat via een systeem van kanalen werd verspreid. Dat systeem is nu vervangen door moderne installaties voor druppelirrigatie. Torres heeft de volgende wijngaarden: Maquehua, 95 ha, Curricó; San Francisco North, 50 ha, Molina, Curricó; Cordillera, 86 ha, Río Claro, Maule; San Luis de Alico, 40 ha, San Clemente, Maule; Crucecillas, 75 ha (langlopend contract), Melozal, Maule; Cerro Azul, 22 ha (langlopend contract), Villa Prat, Curricó; Huerta del Maule, 179 ha, Maule; Empedrado, 364 ha, San Clemente, Empedrado. Torres bezit ook wijngaarden in Elqui en in het uiterste zuiden. technisch directeur Fernando Almeda Ollé Itata Zeer recent werd 230 ha land gekocht in Itata Valley, aan de oevers van de rivier Nuble. Dit vanwege de klimaatsverandering, die ook aan Chili niet voorbij gaat. Het plan is om hier wijnstokken aan te planten voor rode wijn, met name cabernet sauvignon en carmenère. Veertig jaar geleden zou dat tot mislukking hebben geleid, omdat deze rassen hier niet rijp werden. Door het warmere klimaat echter zal een perfecte rijping hier mogelijk worden. Tegelijkertijd wil Torres een van de oudste wijnstreken van Chili nieuw leven inblazen met een project voor wijntourisme. País, carignan en italia Dit zijn de oorspronkelijk in Chili aangeplante druiven. Ze staan in Maule en Itata (90%) en kunnen goed tegen waterstress en worden niet geïrrigeerd. Carignan heeft een van nature laag rendement en werd daarom merendeels gerooid. Italia heeft als synoniem muscat d’italie. Torres is bezig met een project om de wijngaarden met de oude bush vines in ere te herstellen. Er worden 3 wijnen van geproduceerd, een witte halfdroge muskaat en twee rode wijnen van país. Experimenten Torres heeft als experiment enkele Spaanse en Portugese druivenrassen staan. Mencia, touriga nacional, verdejo, albariño en garnacha nera. de oogstmachine aan het werk carmenère heeft rode bladeren Carmenère Torres heeft de laatste 7 jaar de wijngaarden met carmenère uitgebreid van 50 naar 100 ha. Niet op de diepe, vruchtbare kleibodems waar de merlot staat (en waartussen de carmenère stond toen deze nog niet was geïdentificeerd als zodanig), maar op granietbodems in warmere, drogere gebieden. In Chili kent carmenère 2 stijlen elegant met peper; dik, overrijp met specerijen. Torres kiest voor de tweede stijl, maar het probleem daarbij is om de druiven overrijp te krijgen zonder dat de zuurgraad ineenstort. Dan wordt de wijn jammy, ontwikkelt zich te snel en is er een risico voor Brettanomyces. De oplossing werd gevonden in een wijngaard in het kustgebied van Curricó. Vanwege veel zeewind wordt carmenère hier echter moeilijk rijp. Daarom zijn de wijngaarden gesitueerd op de warme noordzijde van de heuvels, waar voldoende zonneschijn is en de zuurgraad bovendien intact blijft. Mousserende wijn Torres maakt, in samenwerking met de universiteit en de overheid, een mousserende wijn volgens de méthode traditionnelle. Deze is sinds 2 jaar bekroond als de beste mousserende wijn van Chili. Vatenkelder Miguel Torres Chile werkt met 6 tot 8 vatenmakers, waarvan er elk jaar 3 de vaten mogen leveren. De barriques zijn altijd van Frans eikenhout gemaakt, want het hout mag niet overheersen in de wijnen. Productie en export Santa Digna was het eerste merk van Torres Chile, het dateert van 1979. De monocepage wijnen met dit label vormen 60% van de productie. De wijnproductie bedraagt 6 miljoen flessen per jaar, waarvan 55% rood en 45% wit. De productiekosten voor rode wijn zijn hier hoger dan voor witte, 40-60% van de wijnen krijgen hout. Er wordt 40% in Chili verkocht en 60% geëxporteerd naar België, Nederland, Japan, Zweden, etc. De wijnen van Miguel Torres Chile zijn in Nederland te koop bij Oud Reuchlin Boelen. Geproefd Fernando Almeda Ollé liet ons een serie van 13 wijnen proeven, die alle door ORB worden gevoerd. De vermelde prijzen zijn bruto horecaprijzen ex BTW. ***(*) Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2013 100% sauvignon blanc uit Central Valley, waarvan 30% uit Casablanca, 30% uit Leyda en de rest van de heuvels bij de Andes. Vroeger voornamelijk van sauvignonasse, maar de samenstelling is de laatste 30 jaar sterk gewijzigd. Geoogst tussen 7 maart en 25 april. Twee uur skin contact, 21 dagen vergist bij 16°C. Geen hout: bedoeld als frisse, knisperende lichte wijn. Alc. 13,5%. Schroefdop. € 6,00 à € 7,00. K groengeel G stuivend, iets tropisch, asperges S strak en fris, zilt en mineraal, iets prikkend, mooi extract, precisie, keurige balans A fraaie lengte met aangename gastronomische bitters T pittige wijn precisie met een keurige balans **** Cordillera Sauvignon Blanc 2013 100% sauvignon blanc van een single vineyard met een diepe zandbodem met rolkeien van kalksteen in Limarí. Hier is erg veel zonlicht (gevaar voor pyrazine, groene paprika). De vele mist van de oceaan zorgt voor frisheid. Schroefdop. € 9,85 à 12,85. K geelgroen G tropische tonen zoals mango en passievrucht S vol, zeer rijp, vet en zilt, de zuren wekken speeksel op, minerale intensiteit A veel lengte met o.a. specerijen en een kleine zoetimpressie T spannend en gastronomisch, complexer dan de vorige wijn ***(*) Santa Digna Chardonnay Reserva 2013 100% chardonnay uit Central Valley, geoogst van 9 maart tot 5 april. Geen skin contact. Vergisting 20 dagen op rvs tanks bij 16°C. Geen houtopvoeding. Alc. 13,5%. Schroefdop. € 6,00 à € 7,00. K gemiddeld geconcentreerd goudgeel G fijne grapefruit, ananas, levendig S ananas, vanille, planten en bloemen, mooie zuurgraad A zilt, sappig en levendig, met een behoorlijke lengte T stevige wijn **** Cordillera Chardonnay 2012 100% chardonnay uit Limarí, geplukt van 27 februari tot 10 maart. Geen skin contact. Vergisting 19 dagen bij 16-19°C, waarvan 40% op barriques van Nevers eiken. Opvoeding 8 maanden, 40% op barriques, 60% op rvs tanks. Alc. 13,5%. € 9,85 à 12,85. K goed geconcentreerd goudgeel G tropisch fruit en kokos S ananas, boterig en vet maar ook elegant, mooie concentratie, complexe tonen A lange voortzetting T klassieke stijl, niet zwaar, uitstekend ***(*) Tormenta Viognier 2013 100% viognier uit Central Valley, aan de voet van de Andes. Geoogst tussen 26 maart en 1 april. Geen skin contact. Vergisting 22 dagen op rvs tanks bij 18°C. Geen houtopvoeding. Alc. 13%. Schroefdop. € 7,50. K bleek geel, iets CO2 (zo snel mogelijk gebotteld) G stuivend, niet alleen bloemen maar ook perzik en appel S zilte inzet door CO2, sappigheid en veel viscositeit, perzik A in verhouding T opvallende frisheid, veel drinkplezier, uitstekende moderne Viognier ***+ Santa Digna Merlot Reserva 2012 100% merlot van Central Valley, geplukt van 8 maart tot 18 april. Driekwart traditionele vergisting van 6 dagen bij 25°C, een kwart macération carbonique. In totaal 20 dagen op de schillen. Opvoeding: 70% op barriques van Frans eiken gedurende 6 maanden, 30% even lang op rvs tanks. Alc. 14%. € 6,00 à € 7,00. K diep robijnrood met paars G licht bosfruit, rijp, speels en wat zwoel S levendig bosfruit met licht body, op het fruit gemaakt, roostertonen, een klein zoetje A gemiddelde lengte T keurige huiswijn, wat aan de commerciële kant, mist wat vulling in het midden ***(*) Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2012 100% cabernet sauvignon uit Central Valley, geoogst van 26 maart tot 3 mei. Vergisting 7 dagen bij 25- 28°C. In totaal 20 dagen op de schillen. Opvoeding op barriques van Frans eiken gedurende 6 maanden. Alc. 14%. € 6,00 à € 7,00. K diep paars G fris, cassis, munt S frisse bosbessen en munt, geen restzoet, mooi afgeronde tannines, ruggengraat van het hout A lange finale T serieuze wijn, veel completer dan de vorige en beter in balans ****+ Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 100% cabernet sauvignon uit Maipo, geoogst tussen 19 en 28 april. Vergisting 7 dagen bij 28°C. In totaal een maand op de schillen. Opvoeding op barriques van Frans eiken (30% nieuw) gedurende 11 maanden. Alc. 14%. € 9,85 à 12,85. K diep tot zeer diep met veel paars G zeer aromatisch, prachtige cabernet neus, puur en typerend, met complexe tonen S erg overtuigend, veel karakter, prachtige balans met veel schakeringen A fris en pittig, specerijen T geen krachtpatser, maar van een verfijnde stijl ****+ Cordillera Carignan 2010 Op het etiket het logo van VIGNO, Vignadores de Carignan www.vigno.org/carignan/ . 100% carignan uit Maule, geoogst op 21 en 22 maart. Vergisting 8 dagen bij 26°C met veelvuldig overpompen (carignan is niet gevoelig voor oxidatie, maar heeft juist veel zuurstof nodig). In totaal 26 dagen op de schillen. Opvoeding op barriques van Frans eiken (30% nieuw) gedurende 10 maanden. Alc. 14,5%. € 9,85 à 12,85. K zeer diep paars G stevig fruit, cacao, bijzonder karaktervol met tal van schakeringen S fris fruit, diep maar niet zwaar, niet te geconcentreerd, heerlijke zachte tannines, krachtige zuren A opmerkelijk goede lengte T eetwijn, hier kan een sommelier mee werken, bij lamsvlees of patrijs **** Tormenta Carmenère 2012 100% carmenère uit biologische wijngaarden in Maule.
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