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Guinea-Bissau% 245 / POP 1.7 MILLION ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Guinea-Bissau% 245 / POP 1.7 MILLION Includes ¨ Why Go? Bissau ........................ 357 Like a microcosm of Africa, this tiny nation contains multi- Arquipélago tudes – of landscapes, peoples, cultures and plant and ani- dos Bijagós ................360 mal life. All of it within reach of the capital, Bissau. Faded Ilha de Orango.............361 colonial-era houses sag, from tropical decay and the weight Quinhámel .................362 of history. Decades of Portuguese colonisation were followed by a long painful liberation struggle and then cycles of civil Parc Natural das Lagoas de Cufada ......362 war and political chaos. Despite hardships and poverty, Bissau-Guineans per- Parque Nacional severe. The jokes, like the music, are loud but tender. The de Cantanhez .............363 bowls of grilled oysters are served with a sauce spicy enough Understand to give a kick, but not so strong as to mask the bitterness. Guinea-Bissau ...........363 The jewel in the country’s crown is the labyrinth of Survival Guide ............365 tropical islands that make up the Arquipélago dos Bijagós. Long white-sand beaches are lapped by waters brimming with fish. Hippos, monkeys, chimps and buffaloes thrive in protected reserves and hundreds of bird species call its vast Best Places mangroves and wetlands home. to Eat ¨ Oysters on Quinhámel beach (p362) When to Go Bissau ¨ O Bistro (p358) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Afrikan Ecolodge 40/104 20/500 Angurman (p361) 16/400 30/86 12/300 20/68 8/200 Best Places 10/50 to Sleep 4/100 0/32 0 ¨ Ponta Anchaca (p362) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Afrikan Ecolodge Angurman (p361) Dec–Feb The Mar–Jul Hot, Jul–Oct The rainy coolest, driest humid and sweaty; season. ¨ Ecocantanhez (p363) months, when sea travel with plenty ¨ Ledger Plaza Bissau turtles emerge of water and (p357) from their nests. sunscreen. ¨ Africa Princess (p360) 357 Kolda Bignona SENEGAL Sédhiou Salikénié Ca samance River Pirada Parque Natural Ziguinchor dos Tarrafes de Barro Farim Burunduma Cacheu Ingore Bigene iver Cap São Domingos R Gabú Pitche Kandika a Skirring São Vicente b Cacheu Varela Bissora Gê Gêba Canchungo Bafatá iver Calequisse Bula Mansôa R Joalande Bambadinca Canjadude A T L A N T I C BISSAU Parque Natural O C E A N Quinhámel das Lagoas Ché-Ché de Cufada Ilha de GUINEA-BISSAU IIha de IIha de Prabis Enxudé Keré Carache IIha de Xitole Mampatá Boé Caravela Bolama São Corubal Ilha Buba Reserva da de Maio João Quebo Saltinho Waterfall Biosfera Arquipélago Ilha de Bolama Empada Mampatá Bolama Bijagós Rubane Forèa River GUINEA A IIha de Bubaque rquipélago Ilha de Catió 0 40 km UnoIlha de Kogon 0 20 miles Bijagós IIha de Canhabaque Jemberém dos Unhocomo Bubaque Parque Nacional IIha de Sanconha Orango de Cantanhez Cacine B S ights Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Marinho Ilha de João Boké issau das Ilhas de Orango João Vieira e Poilão Vieira Guinea-Bissau Highlights 1 Ilha de Rubane (p362) of salty bacalau and red wine buffalo trails through dense Relaxing amid world-class in the capital. forests. facilities and natural 4 Parque Nacional das 6 Quinhámel (p362) splendour. Ilhas de Orango (p361) Dipping oysters in hot lime 2 Ilha de Bubaque Locking eyes with hippos as sauce after a day in the (p360) Experiencing village they emerge from the warm water. life, a short walk from your saltwater lagoons. 7 Bolama (p360) island getaway. 5 Parque Nacional de Sitting on the steps of the 3 Bissau Velho (p357) Cantanhez (p363) Following abandoned town hall, with Tangoing in cobbled streets chimpanzee, elephant and its crumbling Greek-style by candlelight, after a dinner pillars. BISSAU are architectural expressions of the coun- % 20, 21 / POP 492,000 try’s hopes for order and democracy. Built on a low-lying estuary where the Gêba z River flows into the Atlantic, apart from the Festivals & Events hectic traffic, Bissau is a low-key, unassum- Carnaval CARNIVAL ing capital. In the early evening, the fading Bissau and Bubaque’s Carnaval are the coun- sunlight lends the crumbling colonial fa- try’s biggest parties. It takes place every year cades of Bissau Velho (Old Bissau) a touch in February or early March during the week of nostalgic glamour. Generators set parts of leading up to Ash Wednesday and the be- the town trembling at night, although, street ginning of Lent. Music, masks, drinking and lights or not, people get out of their homes dancing are the order of the day. and gather at ramshackle bars. 4 Sleeping 1 Sights oLedger Plaza Bissau HOTEL $$ Bissau Velho, a stretch of narrow alleyways (%245 955 577007; www.laicohotels.com; Av Com- and derelict buildings, is ‘guarded’ by the batentes Liberdade da Pátría; r from CFA60,000; Fortaleza d’Amura. The rebuilt neoclassical aiWs) Bissau’s most luxurious hotel, the presidential palace (Praça dos Heróis Nacion- Ledger (known to taxi drivers by its former ais) and brushed-up Assembleia Ministério name Lybia Hotel) is where politicians, busi- da Justiça (cnr Avs Francisco Mendes & do Brazil) nesspeople and the small expatriate com- munity congregate – the latter primarily on .
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