Gateau St. Honoré
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GATEAU ST. HONORÉ This classic French torte is named after St. Honoré, the patron saint of pastry chefs. Not a cake-based confection, this torte has a puff pastry base, topped by pastry cream and whipped cream, surrounded by profiteroles dipped in caramelized sugar, their sugary tops resembling the halos of saints. Makes: 1 9-inch torte Serves: 10-12 • 1 sheet rolled puff pastry, thawed in the fridge Pastry Cream • 1 cup (250 mL) 2% milk • ½ vanilla bean or 1 ½ tsp (7 mL) vanilla Bean Paste • 3 large egg yolks • 3 Tbsp (36 g) sugar • 2 Tbsp (15 g) cornstarch • 2 Tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces Profiteroles • ½ recipe choux paste (recipe follows) • 3 Tbsp (45 mL) water • 1 cup (200 g) sugar • 1 Tbsp (15 mL) white corn syrup Assembly • 1 ½ cups (375 mL) whipping cream • 1 ½ Tbsp (6 g) skim milk powder • 3 Tbsp (36 g) sugar • 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract • 2 Tbsp (30 mL) raspberry puree • 1 cup (250 mL) fresh raspberries GATEAU ST. HONORÉ (CONT’D) 1. Preheat the oven to 375 oF (190 oC) and line a baking tray with parchment paper. 2. Cut the puff pastry into a 9-inch (23 cm) circle (or use the shell from a 9-inch/23 cm removable tart pan to cut a circle with a pretty fluted edge) and place this on the baking tray. Dock the pastry with a fork and bake for about 20 to 25 minutes until an even golden brown. Cool. 3. Heat the milk with the scraped seeds of the vanilla bean or the vanilla bean paste until just below a simmer. 4. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch. Ready a bowl with the butter, placing a strainer on top of it. 5. Gradually whisk the hot milk into egg mixture and then return it all to the pot. Whisk this constantly (switching to a spatula now and again, to get into the corners) over medium heat until thickened and glossy, about 2 minutes. Pour this immediately through the strainer, whisking it through if needed, and stir in the butter. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly over the surface of the custard, cool to room temperature and then chill completely until ready to use. 6. For the profiteroles, preheat the oven to 400 oF (200 oC) and line two baking trays with parchment paper. 7. Fill a piping bag fitted with a large plain tip with the choux paste. Pipe profiteroles, each about 1 ½ -inches (36 mm) across. Wet your finger in cool water and tap any points on the batter. You will need 16 to 18 profiteroles for the torte. 8. Bake the profiteroles for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375 oF (190 oC) and continue to bake for about 15 more minutes, until they are a rich golden brown colour and are very light. Allow the pastries to cool completely before filling. 9. To fill, stir the pastry cream to soften and fill a piping bag with a medium plain tip (or an éclair or doughnut tip, if you have one). Use a skewer to first poke a small hole in the side of each profiterole. Insert the piping bag and fill each with cream until you feel resistance. Save any remaining pastry cream for the torte. Chill until ready to dip in caramelized sugar. 10. Bring the water, sugar and corn syrup up to a boil in a small pot over high heat and continue to boil, uncovered and without stirring, and occasionally brushing the sides of the pot with water, until it is a light amber colour. Ready a bowl of ice water and carefully set the bottom of the pot into the ice water to halt the sugar from cooking further. GATEAU ST. HONORÉ (CONT’D) 11. Using tongs, carefully dip the tops of the profiteroles halfway into the caramelized sugar and place them, caramel side down, on a lightly greased parchment-lined baking tray to set. If the caramel in the pot begins to set before you have finished, you can reheat the caramel on low heat. 12. To assemble, whip the cream and skim milk powder until it holds a soft peak and stir in the sugar and vanilla. Divide the cream in half, stir the raspberry puree into one half and then fill 2 piping bags fitted with a plain or star tip each with a cream. 13. Place the baked puff pastry disc onto the serving plate. Spread the remaining pastry cream on the bottom, leaving a half inch space around the outside edge. Arrange the dipped profiteroles on top of the puff pastry, creating a ring around the outside and so that the flat, caramel-dipped tops are facing up. Sprinkle the fresh raspberries over the pastry cream. Pipe alternating straight lines, circles or other patterns with the two colours of whipped cream and chill until ready to serve. BASIC CHOUX PASTE • ¾ cup (180 mL) 2% milk • ¾ cup (180 mL) water • ½ cup + 2 Tbsp (145 g) unsalted butter • 2 tsp (8 g) sugar • ½ tsp (2 g) salt • 1 2/3 cups (340 g) all-purpose flour, sifted • 5 large eggs, at room temperature 1. Bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt up to a full simmer over medium high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the flour with a wooden spoon, stirring vigorously until the dough “cleans” the sides of the pot (no longer sticks). Scrape this mixture into a large bowl and use electric beaters or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for a minute or 2 to cool it a little. 2. Break two eggs into a small dish and whisk them just to blend a little. Add these to the flour mixture while still on medium speed and mix until blended. Add the remaining 3 eggs one at a time and mixing well after each addition. Work with this recipe while the batter is still warm. PUFF PASTRY DOUGH (INVERTED METHOD) This technique is based on the classic French method of making puff pastry, but is assembled inverted, or “inside out”. Where a traditional puff pastry is made by wrapping a block of butter (beurrage) with a flour/water dough (détrempe) and then folded, this recipe does the reverse and folds the dough with the butter. It is no more challenging a method than the traditional way, but it does result in a remarkably flaky and tender puff pastry that rises evenly and rolls out easily. Puff pastry does take time to make, as it must rest in between folds, but it is well worth the effort. This recipe makes enough for an assortment of baked items. If just preparing one of these, any excess dough can be frozen for later use. Simply thaw in the fridge before rolling and using. Makes: about 1.4 kg of dough (about 3 lbs) Détrempe • 4 cups (600 g) all-purpose flour • 1 cup (250 mL) cool water • ½ cup + 1 Tbsp (130 g) unsalted butter, room temperature • 1 Tbsp (12 g) sugar • 2 tsp (10 g) salt • 1 Tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice or white vinegar Beurrage • 3 cups (675 g) unsalted butter, room temperature • 1 cup (150 g) all-purpose flour 1. For the détrempe step, fit a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment and blend all of the ingredients together on low speed and then , once blended, increase the speed one level and mix for 4 minutes. Shape the dough into an 8-inch square, wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes, up to 2 hours. 2. For the beurrage, beat the butter with the flour in the stand mixer with the paddle until smooth. Line an 8-inch square pan with plastic and scrape the butter into the pan, spreading to level (as it will be soft). Chill this until it is the same consistency as the détrempe – this could take 30 to 90 minutes. If the beurrage sets firmly or you are making it well ahead, let it soften to just cooler than room temperature. 3. For the lamination stage, remove the beurrage from the pan onto a well-floured work surface. Dust a heavy rolling pin with flour and roll the beurrage into a rectangle about 16-x-9–inches. Lift the beurrage occasionally to ensure it isn’t sticking to the work surface (after the first roll, it does not stick at all). Place the détrempe in the centre of the beurrage and fold the beurrage over PUFF PASTRY DOUGH (CONT’D) to completely envelope the détrempe. Roll the dough out to a rectangle 20-x-10-inches, flouring the dough and work surface as needed. Fold into thirds, but be sure to dust off any excess flour with a pastry brush before folding. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat rolling the dough to a 20-x-10-inch rectangle, brushing off and folding into thirds. Wrap the dough, label it with a #1 (for first fold) and chill for a minimum of 2 hours up to a day. 4. For the second fold, roll the dough again into a 20-x-10-inch rectangle, brush off excess flour and fold into thirds. Rotate the dough 90 degrees, repeat the rolling and folding and then wrap and label the dough with a #2 and chill for a minimum of 2 hours and up to a day. 5. For the final fold, roll and fold the dough the dough into thirds for the final time (just once this time).