Latitude 38 February 2012

FebruaryCover Template 1/24/12 10:12 AM Page 1 Latitude 38

VOLUME 416 February 2012 WE GO WHERE THE WIND BLOWS FEBRUARY2012 VOLUME 416 VOLUME ROB MOORE — CONNECTICUT YANKEE

The sailing community lost a favored son last month. Latitude 38 lost a treasured former colleague, and scores of 1978, ostensibly to look for a job in fi- E Ticket (Olson 25). sailors around the nation and the globe nance, but also because he wanted to see One of the great Rob stories was that lost a personal friend with the passing firsthand this place where they said the he ‘owned’ Summertime Dream three dif- of Rob Moore, who died peacefully at wind blew hard all summer and the tides ferent times. Rob financed the first two home on the afternoon of January 5, ran strong. He was not disappointed. sales himself. The first owner defaulted surrounded by family. His first few sails were aboard various on the note and gave the boat back. boats, but his first regular big-boat ride The second time it went to a rich kid was with Bill Twist on Bill’s Peterson from Brazil (who painted it dark blue 3/4-tonner Stuff. Rob became so hooked and affixed the giant letters BRA to the on local sailing that his family remem- mainsail). He offered to trade it back to Rob for a Hobie 16! So Rob struck a deal with Seabird Sailing Center in Berke- Rob loved sailing from the ley for a new Hobie Cat — and got the ‘Dream’ back again. The third sale was a start, but became easily charm, because it ‘stuck’. Notably, Rob bored by the sedate pace sold the boat at a profit each time. (See our feature on this boat in the July 2011 of cruising and daysailing. edition.)

bers he didn’t even come back home to pack up the rest of his possessions. He Rob first came to the attention of just found a job (eventually working for Latitude 38 when he won his IOR class Twist) and bought new clothes and other on Summertime Dream in the mid-80s necessities as he needed them. and was featured in our Season Champi- The first boat Rob owned on the Bay was Urban Guerrilla, a well-used Santana 20 that had achieved minor notoriety by broaching and sinking during a race ALL PHOTOS COURTESTY LESLIE RICHTER COURTESTY PHOTOS ALL on the Berkeley Circle. (There’s a great A consummate joker with a razor-sharp wit, Rob photo taken by legendary Bay sailing will be remembered for his keen sense of humor photographer Diane Beeston of just the as much as for his sailing prowess. top 4 feet or so of the mast and sail stick- Robert Kent Moore was born on Sep- ing out of the water.) As the story goes, tember 26, 1953, in New London, Con- the then-owner tied a floating bottle to necticut, to Kent and Marge Moore. He it, collected the insurance, went out and and younger sister Marnie were raised raised the boat, hosed out the mud — in Mystic, and their playground was the and sold it to Rob. waters nearby. Rob was a mischievous Within a year of moving west, Rob and energetic youngster, always pushing met designer Carl Schumacher. The two the envelope for new adventures. His immediately hit it off and became close parents were avid sailors on Long Island friends. Rob eventually bought Summer- Sound (young Rob helped his father time Dream, the 26-ft quarter-ton de- build several boats in the backyard) and signed and put together by Schumacher introduced the children to sailing at an in 1979. The boat's win in the Quarter early age. Tonner Nationals that year launched Rob loved sailing from the start, but Carl’s career as a naval architect. became easily bored by the sedate pace of Schumacher was a huge help in ‘edu- cruising and daysailing. His penchant for cating’ the Connecticut Yankee in how more excitement soon had him seeking to sail the Bay’s tricky waters. Rob and spots on racing boats, where he was a Carl sailed together many times, and quick learner. By the time Rob enrolled at Carl even ‘awarded’ Rob one of the first Brown University, where he would earn major trophies the boat won, which was a degree in American Civilization, he a half-hull of Summertime Dream. No was already an accomplished sailor and matter where he lived, Rob hung that a member of the Brown Sailing Team, half-hull in a place of honor in the house, along with Eric Kreuter, Brad Dellen- while most of his other silverware from baugh, John Burnham and others. By various races — and there was a lot of the time he got his MBA from Columbia, it — languished on shelves or counters he had several Block Island Race Weeks filled with paper clips or M&Ms. and Bermuda Races under his belt, and Over the next 20 or so years, Rob also was a sought-after crew and delivery owned and sailed Sundance (SC 27), skipper. Grumpy Old Men (another Santana 20), Rob first came to San Francisco in Confederacy of Dunces (Holder 20) and

Page 78 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 IN KING NEPTUNE'S COURT

ons series. (This writer recalls his initial Among the many impression of Rob as being a cross be- Left Coast events on tween a red-haired Mark Twain and the his resume by then: A Lion King.) Rob later submitted an article Puerto Vallarta Race on the 12-Meter Worlds that appeared (on the SC70 Citius), in the March 1986 edition. Ever one to two Cabo Races (Ex- buck tradition, Rob finally said good-bye press 37 ReQuest and to the world of high finance (where he Farr One Ton White once received a new BMW as a holiday Knight), two Trans- bonus) and hello to the ink-stained, Pacs (one aboard E37 midnight-oil-burning, largely thankless Morningstar), a Ken- life of a journalist in October of the next wood Cup (Bladerun- year, when he was hired to be Latitude’s ner, Bill Twist’s then new racing editor. new R/P 47), a hand- By that time, Rob had done more ful of Big Boat Series racing, and knew more about racing (most aboard Bladerunner) and literally In addition to sailing whenever he could, Rob — locally, nationally and internation- every local event on the Bay and in the loved outdoor sports like kayaking and hiking ally — than the entire rest of the staff ocean — back when the latter included — especially up in the San Juan Islands. combined. And that included all the past brutal, boat-busting 100- or 200-mile 26, 1983. When asked how he knew employees. courses like the Buckner and Jr. Water- that, he said, “That was the day we got house. Once asked if he knew the date dismasted on the ocean aboard Sum- With Robin Sodaro driving and Tom Leweck that the Australians finally wrested the mertime Dream checking traffic aft, Rob trims the kite aboard and had to be towed in Damon Guizot’s Swan 53 'Katrina' during the America’s Cup away from the New York by the Coast Guard. Oh, and it was also 2009 Antigua Sailing Week. YC, Rob immediately replied September my birthday.” By the time he stopped making entries in his sailing resume in 2009, Rob had compiled at least a dozen Coastal Cups, 10 MEXORCs, six Ensenada Races, two Swan Worlds (in Sardinia), four Bermuda Races, two Pacific Cups (aboard the Schumacher 50 Morpheus), several Key West Race Weeks, and one each: Anti- gua Race Week and Pineapple Cup (Ft. Lauderdale to Montego Bay, Jamaica, through the famed Windward Passage). He was a two-time winning crew (for Paul Cayard and Ed Baird) in the Bitter End YC Pro-Am, and a four-time winning crew for John Jennings in the St. Francis International Masters Regatta. That’s not to mention the many races he also sailed locally, or the fact that

“That was the day we got dismasted on the ocean aboard 'Summertime Dream' and had to be towed in by the Coast Guard."

Rob often delivered the boats he raced on back from Mexico, Hawaii, Florida or other ports. Or the time he devoted to race management at the Sausalito YC and later Corinthian YC. (He was also a member of the Storm Trysail Club.) Or his longtime duties on the Bay Area PHRF Committee. Or his many years of being part of the selection committee for the Rolex Yachtsman/Yachtswoman of the Year awards. His rides varied from small craft —

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 79 ROB MOORE — CONNECTICUT YANKEE

like Confederacy of Dunces, which he trailed to various venues on the Lake Circuit, to big boats like Swans (includ- Rob and myself ing Moneypenny, a Swan 601), and sleds were left when (various SC 70s and the N/M 68 Pan- we arrived in demonium). Favorite boats/campaigns/ Greenwich.”) crews over the years included Twist’s The wind in- Bladerunner, Lew Beery’s Andrews 43 s t r u m e n t s It’s OK! and with Jim Gregory on both blew of f the big and small boats: Morpheus and Agent mast, but later Smith, an Etchells. weather reports It's also noteworthy that Rob taught indicated the sailing, acted as a mentor/coach to many young sailors young and/or aspiring sailors, and was a were pound- ‘master of introductions’, whose instinct ing north in for matching up people led to many har- as much as 60 monious crews — and to changing many knots. lives for the better. A good example is Jim Gregory. Years ago, Rob taught the 14-year-old Jim to sail. (“He now teaches Rob’s 18 me,” Rob noted a few years ago.) Then, years at Lati- when Gregory moved west, Rob intro- tude 38 were duced him to Carl Schumacher, which rife with stress, years later led to the design and building long hours, oc- of Morpheus. casional all- “Rob was always my favorite person to nighters, ‘dead- sail with,” recalls Jim. “He was the first line dinners’ person I called when I started to pull a consisting of a racing crew together for Morpheus, and family-size bag he was always the key member of the of Fritos and crew around which everyone rallied.” a six-pack of Epic non-racing highlights of Rob’s Bud, epic writing, epic friendships, epic One of Rob's best friends and most valued long sailing career include an all-ex- creativity, and lots of laughter. Lots of mentors was Hank Easom. They raced together penses-paid press cruise to Australia’s it. often aboard Hank's 8-Meter 'Yucca'. Whitsunday Islands (he still found it As a writer, Rob was a natural. Right ed value — by calling all the principals hard to adapt to the relaxed cruising out of the blocks, he had a great feel involved in the release and constructing lifestyle), and a Florida-to-Connecticut for the amount of coverage each event more of a true article out of it, which delivery with Eric Kreuter in hellacious deserved. His already encyclopedic usually included much more pertinent conditions “when we were in college and knowledge of racing came through with and up-to-date information. His original didn’t know any better.” (“We were losing each piece, and he was so fanatical articles were the same way. Everything crew at every stop,” recalls Eric. “Only about getting things right that — more Rob wrote added insight — and value — than once — he called a source very late, to the event and the sport as a whole. One of the best things that ever happened to sometimes literally at midnight, to check Rob’s writing expertise extended be- Rob was meeting the lovely and talented Leslie Richter, who became the love of his life. the spelling of a crewmember’s name. ("Is yond recapping single regattas. When that Tracy with an 'i' 9/11 happened just two days before the or a 'y'?”) 2001 Big Boat Series — and that year’s Rob's integrity in regatta was appropriately cancelled — matters of writing — we were all in shock like the rest of the and life — set the bar high, and elevated all of the writing at the As a writer, Rob was a magazine, particu- natural. Right out of the larly his oft-phrased blocks, he had a great feel admonishment to “add value.” To Rob, for the amount of coverage it made no sense to each event deserved. run something like a press release ver- world. But at Latitude, we also now had batim. His reasoning eight blank pages to fill. In just a few was that it was prob- short days, Rob put together the Big ably going to appear Boat Series Retrospective, one of the in 100 other publica- most fun, bittersweet and entertaining tions, and that just pieces ever to run in the magazine. While “parroting” it added tracing the BBS from its origins in the no value. So he add- ‘60s to present day, Rob hit all the right ALL PHOTOS COURTESTY LESLIE RICHTER COURTESTY PHOTOS ALL IN KING NEPTUNE'S COURT

derstatement. Besides sailing, it was time enough buttons and ran all He responded well to the inital chemo- to devote a few more months to another the right photos, therapy regimen. His cough went away of his loves — hiking and enjoying the mentioning such and he resumed an outwardly robust ex- outdoors. "Although his career and most legendary boats as of his free time was dedicated to sailing, “ Baruna, Imp and spending time in the wilderness fed Rob’s Kialoa, and running After all the big boats and all soul,” wrote wife Leslie on the blog-jour- photos of ‘young the great rides and venues nal “Rob’s Adventure — Sailing Upwind guns’ like Dave Ull- he’d experienced, Yucca In A Storm” (rkmoore.wordpress.com), man, Dennis Con- which they put together to keep friends ner and Tom Black- may have been Rob’s informed of Rob’s condition. Over a pe- aller back when they all-time favorite ride. riod of several years, Rob and Leslie had were still considered begun construction of a yurt on a remote mortals. istence. The chemo, combined with living piece of land in the San Juan Islands. And when that clean, eating healthy, and the love and They dedicated time to finishing it, and weather bomb ex- devotion of his wife Leslie allowed Rob spent many a summer month living and ploded on the 1998 to lead a mostly normal life for two more hiking in the surrounding wilderness. Sydney-Hobart years. Even the doctors were amazed. Closer to home, they made regular Race fleet, taking To say he treasured every single day treks to Mt. Tam and other nearby hiking the lives of six sail- of the time he had left would be an un- grounds such as Yosemite. But what Rob ors with more than 55 others being air- lifted off maimed REMEMBERING ROB and sinking boats, Rob wrote that sto- The following are excerpts of remembrances Philip Lotz — Although I got to know him for ry, too. To this day, from some of Rob's friends and crewmates. For only a short time, it is easy to see why there is it is the most con- more, including some hilarious stories from former such an overwhelming outpouring of tributes to cise, accurate and and current Latitude staffers, see our online trib- Rob. All the statements in Scuttlebutt and else- ute to Rob at www.latitude38.com. where are true — he was great to sail with and a dramatic account of treasure of a person on and off the boat. . . . He that tragedy short of From "Brother" John Gladstone — Some made a huge impact on our team and will be re- the book that came out later. people reading all this stuff about Rob, who did membered and missed by all of us on Arethusa. One editorial venture that Rob was not know him as I and others writing in did, may particularly proud of was creating the not get how significant he truly was to those he Kirk Denebeim — Having re-entered the Bay Ten Commandments of Beer Can Racing touched. Someone else said it so well: He made racing scene in 2011 after a 20-year hiatus, I had which we still re-run annually. each and every one of us feel more special than the pleasure of chatting with Rob at a regatta last The most difficult assignment Rob we ever felt about ourselves. "I am not worthy," he July, and catching up a bit. He vaguely informed ever had? The memorial article he wrote would say. Guess what? If worthy means having me that he was battling some health problems, spent time with you Rob, we are so worthy! but honestly, I did not appreciate that it was as se- about friend and mentor Carl Schu- rious as lung cancer. His spirits, demeanor, smile, macher after Carl’s untimely passing in Dave Gendell of Spinsheet Magazine — In the bottomless wit — and those twinkling blue eyes early 2002. early years on the judges' panel for Rolex Yachts- — gave no hint that it would be our final conversa- Rob left Latitude 38 in the fall of 2005. man and Yachtswoman of the year Rob and I had tion. He continued to sail throughout most of never met in person, but I knew him by reputa- 2011, preferring in this phase of life to ‘go tion and through the occasional battered and fe- Lucie Mewes — I got my second Beer Can retro’ as part of Hank Easom’s crew on tishized copies of Latitude 38 that made their way tiara (for completing a beer can race every night of the lovely 1937 8-Meter Yucca. After all east back in those days. I completely respected the week, within a single week) because of Rob's was said and done, after all the big boats his work and his offbeat vibe. (To wit: He once goading. He got me to say "yes" to the challenge, published a race story featuring a headline lifted which got me to do a lot more sailing and meet so and all the great rides and venues he’d from an obscure lyric from The Doors: "Weird many new folks. experienced, Yucca may have been Rob’s Scenes Inside the Gold Mine.") all-time favorite ride, largely because of . . .I was young and I loved Latitude 38. It was Pat Broderick — I first met Rob at the Sau- the friendship he’d developed over the Rob I wanted to connect with more than any ce- salito Cruising Club when I was running and sail- years with Easom. lebrity editor from Newport or any "full access" ing races down there. He was young with wild red mainstream media guy. hair and a strong voice at the bar. And he was one hell of a sailor. He'd offer helpful suggestions for n the summer of 2009, Rob de- Dana Paxton of Media Pro International — managing races better — and I even listened to I While I was well aware of the scope of Latitude some of them. veloped a persistent cough. When it 38, it wasn’t until I met Rob a year or so into the wouldn’t go away, he went to the doctor. job and watched him work the dock among thou- Mark Joiner — I'm so sorry to hear of Rob's Three times he was told it was nothing sands of sailors that I truly understood how much passing. I didn't know him well but always enjoyed serious, given medication, and sent he knew about racing on the West Coast (and be- his articles, which is saying a lot for a long-con- home. The cough persisted. Urged to yond). He quickly became my go-to guy for trivia, firmed non-racer such as myself. get a second opinion, he did, and it was history or an inside scoop that might help me do a a shocker. In late ‘09, he was diagnosed better job for the St. Francis YC and the regatta. Capt. Robert Strang — Rob was the consum- with Stage IV lung cancer — the most All I had to do was call or write and name a sailor, mate sailor and fellow crewmember, from my ex- advanced stage. He'd never smoked. He race or boat class, and the encyclopedia in Rob’s periences with him in Puerto Vallarta to our be- was given nine months to live. head would open. loved Balboa YC and the Bay Area. If Rob wrote it,

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 81 ROB MOORE

something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your then it was the bottom line! His memory will be with all of us forever. deepest dreams waits for you — beyond that next turning of the canyon Jim Bateman — Rob and I once sailed walls.” Urban Guerrilla out to the first approach buoy Fair winds, old friend. Thanks for out the Gate, just to ride the swells back in. adding value to all of our lives. The Since UG was named after Patty Hearst, world will not be the same without we sometimes entered the boat's name un- you. der the SLN — Symbionese Liberation Navy. — latitude/jr An explanation is probably in order for his use of SLN, as well as the Down Town Yacht

Club, the Brown Trout Yacht Club, Spooge, GRUVER DAVE COURTESY Rob is survived by his wife, Leslie, and Spooge 3 syndicates when he raced. mother Marge, sister Marnie, her hus- These were all used in fun, but really because Shortly after Rob passed, his sailing buddy band, Scott, and her children Philip and Rob never liked to publish his own name as the Dave Gruver (standing, white cap) and his crew- Katherine. Anyone interested in honoring winner in Latitude. mates made a 'stache' tribute to their red-haired Rob with a donation is encouraged to do friend during a Sausalito YC Midwinter Race. so in his name to the National Lung Can- Pete Caras — One time, Rob came by Foxen relished most were his trips to southwest cer Partnership, (www.nationallungcan- to try to entice Tracy and me to do a Corinthian Utah to visit places like Moab, Red Rocks cerpartnership.org), Hospice By the Bay Friday night race with him aboard Richard Spin- and Indian ruins — former stomping (www.hospicebythebay.org), or through dler's Olson 30. Tracy wasn’t into it because she felt Rob was too intense when racing and told him grounds of his favorite author, Edward a special fund set up at the Marin Com- so. Rob held up two six-packs and promised it Abbey, who wrote Rob’s favorite book, munity Foundation (www.marincf.org). would be a fun, relaxed evening, so Tracy said, Desert Solitaire. Among the many memo- Tiburon's Corinthian YC will host a 'Let’s do it.' All was well until the starting gun went rable word images from that book: celebration of Rob's life February 12, 2-5 off and Rob had us working our asses off like it “May your rivers flow without end . . . p.m. "All friends are invited to attend," was the America's Cup! We won our division and where storms come and go as lightning says Leslie. "Crew shirts are encouraged, Rob was so stoked he sprang for dinner. clangs upon the high crags . . . where and ties are prohibited." Not just installed – Engineered! There's a difference.

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 83 TO BASH OR NOT TO BASH —

"Before going cruising I fo- cused on all the preparations for the trip south. I don't think I gave more than a to- dodger 30 feet aft of the bow." tion would immediately run you into ken nod to the return trip," recalls Kevin The 'bible' on the subject of bashing land, so it can't be used until you get Belcastro of the San Francisco-based is the Baja Bash by Jim Elfers, who's offshore. When you get out far enough, Tanton 43 Toucan. "Now, I think — no, now harbormaster of Puerto Los Cabos you can go to a port tack and head north- I know — that deciding how to get the Marina in Baja. He discusses varying erly for a while. But remember and abide boat home is one of the most important strategies and gives detailed info on by Rule One! There are areas where your everything from preparation to boat can be set easterly by currents and emergency anchorages. put you on the beach if you're not care- The biggest question on the ful. minds of most potential bash- ers tends to be about timing. From our experience, these The most important factor days — when the only thing truly predictable about world in experiencing a relatively weather seems to be its unpre- easy trip is fi nding an dictability — there is no longer an ideal time of year to make ideal weather window. the trip north. The most important factor in experiencing "I have found that even though the a relatively easy trip is fi nding prevailing northwesterlies will set you an ideal weather window. somewhat south at the beginning of your BOB JOHNSON Given the fact that the prevail- return, they will begin to lift you above a Bashing home doesn't have to be all misery. ing winds are usually — but not always westerly course as you get farther off- After all, it's more time out on the ocean, and — out of the northwest, and the current shore, after which you'll probably be able who knows, you might even catch dinner. is always southbound, it would seem to fl ip to a port tack and get some north- issues to address before sailing south." that only a fool or a masochist would ing. Of course, since the coast lies in a Hundreds of sailboats travel to the head north blindly without a game plan. SE to NW direction, you'll close on the sunny latitudes of Mexico and Central But as you'll read here, strategies dif- beach on any northerly course, so don't America each year, and while some fer. forget Rule One! cruise on to the Caribbean or South Harry Hazzard of the San Diego-based "And if you're really lucky, a NW Pacific, the majority of these south- Beneteau Idylle 15.50 Distant Drum ex- course spinnaker run would be a great bounders are eventually faced with the plains, "I've always contended that trav- way to do the miles between Cabo and predicament of how to get their boat back eling north is a bash, only if you make it San Diego! I'm afraid I have not experi- to their home waters safely. so. Going out there and getting yourself There are a variety of options to beat up just so you'll have something to choose from including: motorsailing write and/or complain about isn't quite up the coast, sailing a modifi ed Clipper my cup of tea. I believe that picking your Route (to the west initially to catch help- weather windows and places to pull in ful prevailing winds, hiring a delivery is a bit smarter. After stopping at Cabo crew to sail her home, trucking (or traile- for fuel and/or provisions, our trips in ring) her home, or shipping her aboard a past years have taken as long as twelve specially outfi tted freighter. Each option days, and have been as short as fi ve." has its pros and cons, so the decision is Ken Roper of the San Pedro-based often a tricky one, requiring boat owners Finn Flyer 31 Harrier is one of the most to compare the wear and tear, time, and respected offshore sailors we know — cost that each option would entail. and we're not just saying that because he's a retired brigadier general, or be- Sailing Her Home Yourself cause even at age 82 he could certainly The most common method is to sail kick our ass. His boat has an engine, her home yourself, perhaps due to the but his strategy is all about maximizing apparent logic that, "I sailed her down time under sail: "I've returned in Harrier here, I guess I'll have to sail her back ten times from various ports in Pacifi c up." Mexico. The technique I have settled on The problem, of course, is that the can be accomplished by adhering to the powerful winds and tall seas that most following rules: 1) Never get within 20 of us revel in as they drive us south can miles of the coast after dark. 2) Sail on be something less than fun going north. the most favored tack. That is, that tack Needless to say, crashing and bashing up- This recollection by Richard Owens of the that takes you most directly to the north. wind on the trip home isn't nearly as much Sausalito-based Norseman 535 Meredith 3) Never forget Rule One. fun as blasting south with the wind off your vividly illustrates our point: "By the time "Starting from the south, i.e. Cabo, stern quarter. Having a sensible northbound we passed Cedros going inside, the wind sailing into the prevailing NW wind will strategy can greatly decrease the pain. increased to 38 knots. Some hours later, take you westerly or even a bit south- we had blue water coming over our hard westerly. The favored tack in this loca-

Page 84 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 STRATEGIES FOR GETTING HER HOME

enced such a return, but one can always Ask any 10 sail- dream." ors a question, and Believe it or not, sometimes you can you're likely to get 10 get a southerly for a period of hours different answers. or even days. As Jean Gregory of the Bashing strategies ironically named Islander 36 Southwind are no exception. recalls, "After all we had been through For example, here's we experienced the wonder of wonders: David Addleman's Reaching to Cedros Island the wind approach: "I've done shifted and we actually set the spinnaker many Baja Bashes. and headed north, up-island and aimed Some much calmer, at the rhumbline for the north end of the some much more Sacramento Reef." brutal. Whatever the Jean's general advice for bashing conditions, I just is, "Have patience, patience and more hunker down and go patience." She says when a favorable as fast as possible. MARTSON PAUL COURTESY weather window is approaching, "I al- "I don't listen to the nets or the so- For coastal cruising, trailerable folding tris like ways leave, or try to leave, at least 6 to 10 called weather forecasts. They just don't Paul Martson's 'Sally Lightfoot' have some hours before the window. Doing this may apply at the capes where it matters the distinct advantages. give you a few hours of the nasties, but most. I do download GRIBs and surface singlehands — but hey, it's gotten him you are leaving refreshed and the calm charts twice a day to watch for serious home safely. Most sailors prefer not to afterward allows you to rest and enjoy weather. I pretty much rhumbline it bash solo, and some carry more crew the hum of your engine while tweaking from cape to cape all the way up, mov- than normal. the main to get as much speed as pos- ing inside about 30 miles south of each "We took two extra crew aboard, for sible (maybe 3 knots)." a total of four of us aboard," recalls Additionally, she ad- Harold Miller of the Alameda-based vises: "1) Make sure your C&C 39 Sea Bear. "This was the best crew has an open time decision I made the entire trip, as we schedule. 2) Expect the could then do three-hour watches, unexpected, And 3) bring with nine hours off between. When enough beer to last at the going got rough, being well least two weeks in an an- rested made a world of difference. chorage. JOHN CAHILL COURTESY Having accurate weather info can also help minimize the pain of going north. In addition to downloading GRIB ﬁ les, "We used the SSB radio to monitor Sonrisanet and Don's Baja Weather, two very good weather resources in Baja that cover the Pa- ciﬁ c and Sea of Cortez sides of Baja," writes Bob Johnson of the Berkeley- based Tayana 37 Charisma. "We subscribed to WeatherRout- ing.com and they guided us along," writes Bruce Crockard of the Long Beach-based Beneteau 473 Trib- John Cahill has done 10 Baja Bashes. How does ute. "It's expensive ($60/call), but in he pass the time? Catching up on the sailing our book well worth it!" There are other news in 'Latitude' of course. excellent weather sources also, such as cape. I don't anchor waiting for weather. I Commanders' Weather (which updates always go out and try. I've only retreated the Baja Ha-Ha Rally Committee) and back behind a cape a couple of times, but Buoyweather.com. sometimes I slow down so as to round When you're bashing up the coast and capes in the middle of the night rather conditions get extremely uncomfortable, than in the afternoon. it's often wise to pull in somewhere to "I strip the decks clear of everything, minimize damage to the boat and crew. tape shut the hatches and ports, sky the Elfers' Baja Bash comes in handy. "We unneeded halyards, and stow stuff on didn’t follow all of his advice," writes the cabin sole instead of in the ends of John Cogan of the Ventura-based Hylas the boat." (Addleman is now sailing his 49 Old Moon, "but his book is right on Santa Cruz 50 X in Palau. in terms of strategy and great places Not many would adopt Addleman's to duck into when the weather doesn’t technique — especially since he often cooperate."

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 85 TO BASH OR NOT TO BASH —

Via Hawaii For boats that are homeported of having 'hired guns' do the dirty in the Pacifi c Northwest, the idea work. "I was lazy and spoiled after of bashing all the way up the West a season of warmth," writes Nels. "I Coast is pretty daunting. Unless didn't look forward to singlehanding they choose to truck or ship their the boat back to San Francisco, so I boats home (discussed later), sail- worked out a deal with a friend who ing home via Hawaii can often be sometimes does deliveries and also the most painless option, as much had a crew. of the trip can be off the wind — al- "He picked up the boat in Mazat- though it adds thousands of miles lan and had it back in San Francisco and many days to the trip. Randy in less than three weeks. Although and Sheri Schneider of the Oregon- I have to admit he didn't treat the based Gozzard 44 MkII Procyon boat quite as I would have, it is a considered this option last spring: "This Keeping an eye out for sea life — like this orca, long trip into wind and waves, and some is actually a much easier and safer trip found north of Turtle Bay — can break up the wear is to be expected. Overall I would than going all the way to Oregon up the monotony of a Baja Bash. defi nitely ask him again." coast." But in the end they opted to bash not too big — would be to ship from the Nels' experience notwithstanding, along the coast, as their insurance com- islands to San Diego via a PASHA Hawaii the subject of hiring delivery crews is pany would have required a third crew Transport roll-on, roll-off cargo vessel. a touchy one that inpires a wide va- plus an $800 surcharge. (See Jimmy riety of cautions. "For every story I've Cornell's World Cruising Routes for an Using a Delivery Crew heard of a delivery captain dealing with extensive look at going northbound via Nels Torberson is a tough old salt unreasonable owners and boats in hor- Hawaii.) who's done more Ha-Ha rallies than we rible condition, I've also heard a story of Another approach that's a lot more can count aboard his vintage Morgan damage done to the boat by an irrespon- fun is to do a circuit out to French Poly- Out-Island 41 Bronco, and he won his sible crew," writes Kevin of Toucan. nesia, then up to Hawaii and home. A class on all attempts but his fi rst. Still, Both times that Nancy DeMauro variation on that theme — if your boat's even old salts sometimes see the wisdom sailed Cat's Meow to Mexico she used

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Page 86 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 STRATEGIES FOR GETTING HER HOME

• Agree in writing (email contracts delivery crews to bring her Catalina recreational sailors out there who exag- are binding), to the parameters of the 36 home to South Beach YC. "I wish I gerate their experience. Hire a skipper delivery, such as rate of pay. The aver- could say it was a pleasant experience who can do underway repairs, especially age for this run is $150 per day for the both times, but I can't." In one instance engine repairs. skipper and $100 per day for each paid when she received the boat, "The interior Susan French and Tom Rowe hired a delivery crew member, depending on the size of looked as if they had taken a water hose crew, and met their Jeanneau 46 'Bateau the vessel. Vessel owners are usually re- and sprayed down the inside. There was Frowe' at Ensenada's Marina Coral. sponsible for associated airfares, all pro- nothing that wasn't soaked, in- visions, fuel, dock fees en route, cluding inside cabinets." and basic repairs which might These are some of the tips she be purchased while en route. now gives to others: Usually, the skipper is sent with • Pay by the mile. a small amount of petty cash

• Put a tracker and a satellite SUSAN FRENCH for use in an emergency, or for phone on board (turned on). purchase of additional fuel. • Make the contract very • Once a skipper is contract- clear, including who is to pay ed, do an inventory of the boat's for damage to the boat. I would equipment. Confirm that all include major damage as well as equipment is functional. Take cleaning fees if need be. photos of the vessel and equip- Professional delivery skipper ment. Rory Kremer has brought nearly • Once the boat has been two dozen boats home to Cali- delivered safely back to the fornia from the Sea of Cortez. destination port, review the in- He agrees with many of Nancy's ventory with the delivery skipper suggestions, and also advises: to conﬁ rm that all on the vessel • Interview wisely; get refer- is intact. And do a debrieﬁ ng ences and check them. There are on needed repairs or damage

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 87 TO BASH OR NOT TO BASH —

incurred during the voyage. "Overall, it's important for owners to from Mexico is to plop it onto a trailer and next weekend! keep Murphy's Law in mind in regard to drive it up the highway. But, of course, "Driving the Baja Highway 1 was no a long beat like this. If something can go few cruising boats are small enough to picnic, though. The road surface is gen- wrong, it will. Carry spare parts as well use this method. Still, if you're shopping erally good, but the road width can be an issue: 8' 6" is the max width I would haul on that road. Even so, the driver needs to be absolutely attentive at all times. We had no issues, but took many precau- tions such as carrying extra spares, a grease gun, and extra fuel. And we did no night driving." The more common means of trucking a boat north is to haul her at San Carlos, which lies about midway up the Sea of Cortez on the mainland side, and let professional truckers deliver her to your home waters in a two-step process MATT DANIEL MATT (explained below). In addition to elimi- Although Mexican roads can sometimes feel for a boat speciﬁ cally to do a season of nating predictable wear and tear from as lumpy as the ocean, it was relatively easy to near-coastal cruising, this advantage is hundreds of miles of upwind sailing, drive 'Tumbleweed' home to Seattle. worth keeping in mind. Consider Matt this method saves owners loads of time, as extra fuel and drinking water. And Daniel's experience bringing his folding as they do not need to accompany the conﬁ rm the good working status of all F-31 trimaran home to Seattle last year. delivery — or even stick around to help safety and communications gear." "I made arrangements to have a friend drop the mast. drive the empty trailer to Cabo where we Russ Cooper had his C&C 37 Lib- Trucking Her Home were able to haul out ourselves. I was erty trucked home to San Francisco last The fastest way to bring a boat north sailing in my home waters of Seattle the spring: "Our haulout, mast pull and load

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Page 88 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 STRATEGIES FOR GETTING HER HOME

price or à la carte, if you want to dates were all scheduled weeks in select your own U.S. or Canadian advance, and happened on the ap- hauler. pointed day with no problem. Be- Russ offers one fi nal word of ad- cause Mexican carriers are not vice: "U.S. Customs will likely make allowed to run over U.S. highways, a mess of your boat below decks. the boat was set down in Tucson They will open compartments, ac- two days after leaving San Carlos, cess hatches, etc., and won't put then later picked up by a U.S. car- anything back. Make it easy for rier for the run to the Bay Area. them to access those areas to the "Marina Seca at San Carlos is not extent you can — a challenge since the only option to truck your boat, all your cruising gear from above but they've been doing it a long time decks will be stowed below." and have the drill down. Overall, our experience trucking the boat was a Shipping Her Home RUSS COOPER good one and we'd do it again." The fi nal option, shipping your It's important to note that the system Purpose-built hydraulic-lift trucks are key to the boat on the deck of a specially equipped Russ refers to is ideally suited to boats well-run boat hauling operation at San Carlos' freighter, is the most costly — roughly under 30 tons with beams narrower than Marina Seca in the Sea of Cortez. double the cost of trucking — but has 13 feet. Fatter boats (up to 16 feet) can be be under 13 feet." some distinct advantages. The fi rst is hauled, but the cost rises dramatically, Marina Seca Transport uses special- that you don't have to pull the mast, and as an escort vehicle is required. Deep- ized "air ride suspension hydraulic trail- another is that with any luck when you keel boats (more than 7-foot draft) can ers" equipped with hydraulic arms that receive her she'll be in exactly the same also present problems, not only because can adjust to any hull shape. If your shape as when you dropped her off for of the depth of the marina, but, as Russ stateside hauler has a similar rig, rather loading. explains: "Ideally, overall height from the than a standard boat cradle, you'll save Dockwise Transport has long been the bottom of the keel to the highest point hundreds of dollars in crane charges. biggest name in this market, but sadly, on deck — usually the pulpit — should Marina Seca will quote you a package they dropped their Mexico-to-British

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 89 TO BASH OR NOT TO BASH —

Columbia routes last spring. us to cruise Desolation Sound However, Yacht Path offers a and Princess Louisa Inlet before similar northbound service with returning to work in September. stops at Panama; Golﬁ to, Costa We left the boat in BC over the Rica; Manzanillo, La Paz and winter and will return to it this Ensenada, Mexico; and Victoria summer for more Northwest or Vancouver, Canada. cruising. Unlike Dockwise, which "They delivered the boat in uses specially built ships with good order with no damage be- submersible decks for loading, yond a few scuffs where the tie- Yacht Path's vessels can carry down straps crossed the toerail. sailboats and motoryachts well The best part was that we were over 100 feet on deck in (Lloyds able to have two cruising seasons certiﬁ ed) steel cradles. A trip — winter in Mexico and summer from Mexico to Victoria typically in British Columbia — during the takes six to eight days. As you same year off from work." can imagine, it's a complicated business to organize, and we're not surprised that the biggest So there you have it, a full complaints we've heard about either After weighing their options, Bill Thompson and menu of options for getting your beloved Yacht Path or Dockwise concern sched- Claudia Cowan shipped 'Sabbatical' all the way boat back home safely. We suggest you ule delays. to Victoria on a Yacht Path vessel. weigh each method carefully before de- After cruising Mexico, Bill Thompson Sabbatical from La Paz to Victoria, BC as ciding on your own game plan. and Claudia Cowan took an unusual ap- it would have been to ship it from La Paz Then again, you could also make proach to getting their Mason 33 Sabbati- to Ensenada. So we decided to extend the less common choice: Shun all these cal back to her Long Beach home port. our cruise into the Northwest. northbound options and continue "Although we live in Southern California, "Our boat was transferred from La Paz around the world instead! we found it was nearly as cheap to ship to Victoria in June 2010, which allowed — latitude/andy

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 91 A WHALE

Over the course of three days around New Year's, cruisers in Mexico reported spotting four whales entangled in drift calf were ensnared in a huge drift net. have sensed our in- nets. Three of those whales — including The yellow object was a plastic 10-liter tentions. a mother and her calf — were saved, but fuel can that had been tied to the drift net Mary rowed us help came too late for the fourth. as a marker and a float. The whales were forward of the dorsal Vince Radice of Sonoran Sport Center bound tightly together and festooned fin and we bumped in San Carlos has seen far too many with yellow rope, red floats and an aqua- the bow of the din- entangled whales, and has taken part colored net. They were swimming north- ghy against the body in a number of rescues. "I think it's all ward at about five knots, so we motored of one of the largest too likely that cruisers will come across along next to them on a parallel course animals on earth. I this kind of situation," Radice says. "If stationed about 150 feet away. leaned over the bow, they do, and they're not comfortable at- We could see even from a distance grabbed a handful of tempting a rescue, they should call the that they were in serious trouble. The net net and started cut- Mexican Navy on channel 16 to wait for covered them tightly from their snouts to ting. Ensnared along help." In the video noted below, Radice behind their dorsal fins. It was apparent with the whales were goes over what he keeps in his whale to us that if the nets were not removed numerous dead and rescue kit. But he'd like to see such they would eventually die. They could dying fish. These fish incidents eliminated entirely. not swim freely nor could they open were bound tightly "Those of us who work in conservation their mouths to feed. We have tried to hold the government re- had a brief crew meeting to sponsible for their failures in preventing discuss a rescue attempt irresponsible fishermen and inspectors and agreed unanimously from creating this mess," he said. that these magnificent ani- While we think the heroic saviors in mals were in mortal distress the two rescues reported in this article and that we could not leave were acting selflessly, we — and they — without attempting to free can't recommend that others follow their them. examples. Approaching a 40-ft, 40-ton As skipper of the vessel, animal in distress is not only dangerous, Mark maintained his right it could easily be fatal. to call off the attempt if he — latitude/ladonna thought it was too dangerous to continue. Mary vol- From Frank Downey, crew aboard the unteered to be responsible for handling to the back and sides of the mother Vancouver B.C.-based Norseman 447 the dinghy and I had the job of cutting whale. It was a sad and gruesome sight Wendaway: the net. We donned our PFDs and loaded that I will never forget. On December 31, I was crewing for the dinghy with the ditch bag, the hand- As I cut, I began pulling on the net Mark Schneider aboard Wendaway, as held VHF and three folding knives. and working our way forward toward was Mary Campbell. We were motoring We lowered the dinghy into the water the snout of the mother. We had to be southwest from Isla Isabela toward San and approached the whales from the really careful, even though the mother Blas when we spotted some whale spouts mother’s side, so she wouldn't panic was swimming along on the surface about a mile away. But we noticed a that we were attacking her baby. I was and seemed to be cooperating with our bright yellow object near the splashing extremely nervous. My mind was filled efforts. Mary and I were awed by the so we altered course. We were sickened with concerns about being charged by sound of their breathing. When they by what we found. the whales, having the dinghy capsize, exhaled, their breath coming out of their A mother humpback whale and her getting caught in the net, or accidentally blow holes made a loud whistling roaring being struck by an enormous tail or sound that reminded us of the enormous Vince Radice has saved several whales in pectoral fin that was literally the size of size and power of these animals. Mexico. Scan the QR code with your phone, or go to worldsaquarium.com/blog/female-sperm- our dinghy. Mary kept the bow of the dinghy whale-calf-rescue to watch his latest rescue. Mary raised the outboard out of the against the whale and I pulled and cut water to keep it from be- net as fast as possible. The mother would ing entangled in the net occasionally submerge to a depth of and she began to row to- about six feet. When we sensed she was ward the mother whale, going down, we had to make sure we all the while speaking weren’t tangled up in the net and Mary comforting words to the would row away as fast as possible. whales. Upon reflection, We had a few close calls. Occasionally, I realize the effect that my hands or fingers would become en- Mary’s soothing voice snarled and I would be briefly in danger had in calming my own of losing a digit or being pulled out of the fears. I also believe that boat. I was very afraid. the whales heard our After about 45 minutes of hard work, voices and, while not be- we had made our way forward of the ing able to understand our words, they may CARL BUNN CARL OF A TALE

protecting her calf, the mother maneu- vered herself so the calf was on the same side as the dinghy. We looked down and could see the mother below the calf supporting it with her body. She was holding up her baby so we could have better access. She was actually helping us to free her calf! With the mother in this position, we were forced to position the dinghy directly over the mother’s back. If she surfaced, we'd capsize. But her behavior didn't seem threatening so we moved in. We'd gained enough experience cutting the net by then and were confident enough the whales meant us no harm. I went right to work on the calf’s snout. The calf’s situation was still pretty serious. The net still enshrouded most of its body and was wrapped tightly around its mouth. As I cut the ropes closer and closer to the whale’s mouth, it seemed to relax a little and I was able to begin working some rope out of its mouth. Occasionally the calf seemed to become irritated and would try to submerge. Because the mother was directly under WINDY ROBERTSON WINDY the calf, it couldn’t submerge without thrashing around a little. It would seem Michael Robertson spent hours trying to free an entangled whale but ultimately had to leave it. With to struggle for a few moments, the his and Windy's guidance, the crew of 'The Rose' finished the job the next morning. mother would go deeper and the calf blowhole to the bumps on the mother’s ermen decided to leave at this point. would sink. We would row away a little snout. As we approached her snout, we Several amazing changes began to and wait to see what would happen. could see close up these large conical occur in the whales' behavior. The calf’s Every time, the calf would reappear at bumps about two inches high and two snout was heavily wrapped with net, as the surface with the mother supporting inches in diameter at the base. These was the mother’s, and at one point it it. When the calf was back in position we bumps were terribly ensnarled with the seemed to be showing us its snout. would row back and get to work. During net and were bleeding where the mono- The mother was almost net-free at one of these episodes, the calf's pectoral filament line had cut into the whale’s this point, and we felt if we could get the fin struck the hard bottom of our rigid flesh. It looked really painful. I carefully net off her snout she had a good chance inflatable dinghy. The sound it made was reached down and lifted the net away to survive. There was a lot of the yellow terrifying. from the bumps, in order to cut the line polypro line wrapped around her mouth Eventually the snout came free and I without causing further damage to the so I concentrated on that. I pulled as started working my way toward the tail. whale’s skin. I had read about whales much of it as I could to the surface and As I cut net toward the dorsal fin, the en- and I knew that they were warm-blooded cut it into three-foot pieces. I continued Watch Frank Downey and Mary Campbell, and in this fashion and eventually was able animals, but touching the warm, smooth the crew of a panga, rescue a mother and her skin of that magnificent creature some- to clear her snout. The net then began calf at vimeo.com/34811494 or scan the code. how seemed to calm my fear and possibly to slide back on her body made the whale feel more comfortable and disappear behind with our presence. her. At this point the About this time, a small panga arrived mother dove and stayed on the scene with two fishermen aboard, submerged for some and they immediately began to help. Af- time. When she returned ter another 20 minutes or so, we noticed she was completely free that the mother and her calf were able of the net! We were all so to swim slightly apart. The mother whale excited that we shouted began to dive and we had to back away and cheered. really quickly. The fishermen backed Mary began to row us off with us and we watched to see if the back toward the whales. whales would reappear near us. We tried to approach They did! The mother and her calf them from the moth- were now able to swim separately but er’s side so we wouldn't they still stayed close together. The fish- spook her but as we got closer an amazing thing happened. Instead of MARK SCHNEIDER A WHALE

tire net loosened and began to slide back along the calf’s body. When it was clear in a drift net — a tangle of weighted a wounded wild animal, I felt scared and of the dorsal fin, the calf sensed that polypropylene lines, monofilament, and stupid. I inched closer. it was almost free and both it and the buoys. The whale was hogtied by the Curiously, when the whale blew, it mother dove. We were ecstatic about our netting, lines stretched taut from snout sounded like the threatening noise of apparent progress but were not entirely to fluke, with one pectoral fin partially a big cat. Not the roar of a lion, but the certain we'd cleared all the netting. immobilized. Because of this, it couldn’t noise Hollywood dubs in when a tiger is By this time we had been at it for raise its tail and struggled to raise its cornered. It wasn’t a reassuring noise about three hours and Mark asked us to head. Most of the time, all that was above and startled me every time. When my return to the boat. We climbed aboard, the water was the smooth, round top of head was underwater, I heard a ca- tired but optimistic that we had suc- its body, the part between the blow hole cophony of high-pitched squeaks. ceeded. The boat was about 200 feet and hump. Putting my mask in the water was from the whales and, as they sounded, I got into our dinghy with a knife surreal, seeing all that was down there, we saw they were completely net-free. and headed over to see what I could do the size of a city bus, next to me. I let the while Windy stood off with our two young swells move me closer until I bumped up From Michael Robertson aboard the daughters. In about 45 minutes, I was against it, just abeam of its hump. The Washington D.C.-based Fuji 40 Del able to cut away nearly all of the netting body felt firm and the skin slippery. I Viento: and buoys that trailed behind the ani- quickly began stroking it hoping that On New Year’s Day, my wife, Windy, mal, piling it high in our 11-ft inflatable. would help the whale distinguish friend woke up at 0330, cranked the Yanmar, But this did little to improve the whale's from foe. Then I grabbed a polypropyl- raised the anchor, and started us on our situation, so I returned the dinghy to Del ene line about 18 inches down and cut passage for that day: 52 nautical miles Viento and swam over to the whale. it. My pulse raced and I felt jittery from along the Pacific coast of Mexico, from In the water with the whale, I felt adrenaline. Chacala to an offshore island called small and vulnerable. The smooth top With my life vest on, I couldn’t dive Isla Isabela. Late in the day, and nearly of its body was now above my head. far below the surface. Even with fins to Isla Isabela, I spotted the body of a Treading water about 10 feet away from on, I struggled to control myself in the whale, just 50 yards in front of us. surge of the two- to three-foot swells. At We saw that it was alive and entangled one point, my fin snagged in the mono-

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Page 94 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 OF A TALE

leeward side, I again met filament and pulled at my leg the animal's gaze about a with the surge. I thrust my foot underwater. I could leg away in a panic. I put the see that this pectoral fin knife back in my pocket and was not as tangled, but removed my vest, looping it did have a single polypro- through just one arm and let- pylene line passing under- ting it drag behind me. I could neath it, pulling taut from now get a bit deeper, but not the snout. It was about down to the fluke, about 12 four feet underwater. I dove feet below the surface. I swam JOHNSON SARA down to cut it, but the line this way to the front of the was pressed against the whale. Line and netting were wrapped The Johnson family discovered this dead whale body and the fin moved and spooked around its snout and on the pectoral fin entangled in netting while sailing to Isla Isabela me. I was at an odd angle in the water, on its side. This fin was white and about aboard their Benford 38 'Wondertime'. struggling with the life vest wrapped the size of a surfboard, an old longboard, the size of an orange. around my good arm. I would have been and also covered in barnacles. I recalled My head at this time was filled with more effective with it off completely, but the power exerted by the whales we'd fears, both rational and irrational, com- I didn’t think that was the right thing seen a few days prior, slapping these gi- pounding my anxiety. What if he moves, to do. I swam forward and again dove ant fins repeatedly against the water. I and I get tangled in this mess and drown? to cut a single line that I thought might opened my knife, dove underwater, and What if I dive down and successfully cut make a difference, if I could reach it. But reached for some netting at the tip of the something heavy, and get tangled and then this massive head bowed down even fin and started cutting quickly. pulled down with it? Meanwhile, seas lower and underneath me. I was over the I was startled when the whale abrupt- were making the operation difficult in top of it and could feel my body pushed ly moved the fin out of my reach. I backed addition to the other risks. around by the current created by the away and swam towards the head for Up near the head, this time on the whale’s movement. the first time. Before I realized it, I was I’d had enough. I wasn’t physically staring at a blue-gray, human-like eye spent, and I even figured I could keep

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 95 A WHALE

my fear in check long enough to make not on my watch!” Something clicked some real improvement to the situa- and he became resigned to whatever tion, but I felt it wasn’t wise. I wanted might happen, pushed his trepida- to help this suffering mammal, but I tion aside, and went for it. John couldn’t accept the risks. began swimming deep, underneath It was difficult to motor away, but the belly of the whale, at least 15 we felt there was nothing more we feet below the surface. He would could do. We could see it continue to cut what he could, surface, and dive blow as we got farther away. We both again, over and over. He was all over were uneasy and troubled. the whale, in front of it, beneath it, Once anchored st Isla Isabela, we and on top of it. contacted other boats about the situ- At this time, crew from another ation. The Rose was game for giving it boat nearby, Three Hour Tour, jumped a shot so I got aboard their boat to find YouTube is filled with inspiring videos of whale into the water to assist John. Shortly af- the whale, using the track on our iPad rescues. Just think twice before attempting a ter this, they cut the last taut lines, the and anticipating a southerly drift. We rescue of your own — these creatures are as netting fell away, and the tired whale didn’t find it. powerful as they are beautiful. swam along the surface before sounding. That night, Windy studied the iPad to assist. After a couple of hours, John Whoops and hollers of joy sounded track more closely and realized that the was tired and cold, but making progress. over the VHFs of the four boats out drift had to be northerly, even though Underwater he heard the same squeak- there. Windy said she felt a tremendous this was contrary to the wind and swells. ing I heard and felt the same fear that I emotional load lifted. The next morning, The Rose headed out felt. But he knew he didn’t have much It occurred to me later that all 15 crew again using this new information. They time left and he finally got angry. He aboard Boomer, Del Viento, The Rose, and found the whale in less than an hour. Its said he felt like one of those doctors Three Hour Tour can rest easy knowing blows were weak and gurgling. on TV who begin screaming at their ER that, for the rest of our lives, no matter John jumped in with the whale to cut patients, “You will not die on me, man, where we are, we never have to spend netting and his crewmember, Saskia, a dime on one of those whale-watching stood by in the dinghy near him, ready tour boat trips.

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 97 SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISING STRATEGIES —

We've always found it curious that most North American sailors will spend years preparing for a dream trip to the The South Pacific Milk Run South Pacific, but once they finally get By far the most commonly traveled started they'll race all the way to New route is the first leg of the so-called Zealand or Australia in a single sea- Pacific Milk Run to the Marquesas. It's son. roughly 3,000 nm, depending on where From the West Coast to Australia is you start from, and is typically mostly a an enormous distance — almost 8,000 broad reach or downwind. The best time miles — and it's also a paradise for those for crossing on this route is March-April, who enjoy warm weather, clear water, so you arrive in the Marquesas near the varied cultures, and great safe cruising. end of the southern cyclone season. For With those things in mind, we knew most, this route will cross the equator we didn't want to rush through. So by and the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone the time my wife Sherry and I passed through the Panama Canal aboard our CSY 44 Soggy Paws in September of '08, It's a paradise for those who we'd done lots of research and planning, which has served us well ever since. We enjoy warm weather, intend to spend five or more years in the clear water, varied cultures, Pacific. There are at least four popular route and great safe cruising. options for cruising boats crossing to French Polynesia from the Americas. (ITCZ), where many boats experience Each has advantages and disadvantages, calm or unsettled weather. and each requires different timing. Here Once south of the ITCZ, the sail will are those that we considered: be in mostly E-SE trade winds. Of course 1) Take the most well-traveled route it's important to note that there are no directly to the Marquesas from any Pacif- possible stops along the way to break up ic port in the U.S. or Central America. the trip. Once in French Polynesia, three 2) Sail to the Galapagos, on the equa- island groups are normally visited: the tor, then take the direct route to the Marquesas, the Tuamotus and finally Marquesas. the Societies (Tahiti and her sister is- 3) After the Galapagos, sail south to lands). Easter Island, and perhaps Pitcairn Is- land, entering French Polynesia via the Via The Galapagos Gambier Islands. Then sail north to the A crossing to the Marquesas from the Tuamotus and Marquesas. Galapagos, which lie about 500 miles McCAMPBELL & SHERRY DAVE PHOTOS ALL 4) Sail south to visit Peru and/or west of Ecuador right on the equator, is lows for repair work, crew changes, and Chile. Then, the following season, leave also about 3,000 nm. However, you will re-provisioning. from any of the South American ports cross the ITCZ between Panama and the directly to Easter Island and continue Galapagos before heading west. Via Easter Island & Pitcairn on as in option 3 above. If you want to spend some time in The sail from the Galapagos south those unique islands — which inspired to Easter Island (27°S 109°W) is about Not many cruisers stop at Pitcairn Island, home Darwin's theory of evolution — be sure to 2,000 nm and mostly a beam reach. to descendants of the HMS Bounty mutineers. Those who do, find it fascinating. check out the current immigration regu- Because this trip takes you well south lations before leav- of the trade wind belt, it should be ing the mainland. done earlier than the Milk Run in order (See our website to take advantage of the more settled below for a descrip- weather during the southern summer. tion of our stay in Our reseach indicates that January and the Galapagos from February are good months to leave the January to March Galapagos for this trip. 2010.) Once at Easter Island, it is about Departure timing 1,100 miles to Pitcairn Island (famous and the rest of the as the hideaway of the HMS Bounty mu- Milk Run comments tineers), then another 300 miles to the in option 1 above Gambiers. All three stops offer unique apply here also. In experiences. By the time you reach addition to the ob- the Tuamotus, in April, cyclone season vious advantage of will be nearly over. If you have planned seeing the unique ahead and obtained a Long Stay Visa for animal life of the French Polynesia, you'll be able to take Galapagos, stopping your time seeing French Polynesia, with there potentially al- many cruising options. With our Long AN OCEAN FULL OF OPTIONS

From the Marquesas, the last island group we visited, it is an easy 2,000-nm, mostly beam or broad reach, northwest to Hawaii. We had a near-perfect passage with 12-15 knots of wind and light seas all the way, and an easy ITCZ crossing (late September and early October). Of the 500 boats that crossed the Pacific in 2010, we know of about ten that chose to go to Hawaii for the winter. About half of those left from the Marquesas and half from the Societies. The farther east you can get for your departure north, the easier the trip will be due to the wind angle advantage. On the return to French Polynesia we left at the end of April from Oahu and had a somewhat rough, windy passage for the first week, close-hauled, with winds in the 18- to 22-knot range. After that it settled down and we had a pleasant passage through the ITCZ and during the last two weeks. As with any long passage, timing and good weather information is essential. And it helps to have someone watching the ITCZ for you too.

The Second Year We arrived in the Western Tuamotus in mid-May. Then, after a month or so, worked our way southwest with the rest of the Milk Runners to Tahiti for the an- nual Puddle Jump crossing celebration called the Tahiti-Moorea Sailing Rendez- vous. Its activities are very worthwhile as an introduction to South Pacific culture. Spread: 'Soggy Paws' lies at anchor at Isla This area normally has southeast Afterwards we still had four months Isabela in the Galapagos, ready to head west trades, so it will be a broad reach or to get to Tonga before the start of the into the South Pacific. Insets: Sherry with a downwind run. From Lima, Peru, the southern cyclone season. So we mean- huge Gambier oyster; Dave gives his bananas distance is only about 2,000 miles, but dered behind the crowds through the a bath to wash off any critters. this route sometimes crosses the high Societies, Cooks, Samoas and on to Stay Visa we were able to spend our full pressure area that sits north and east of Tonga. We arrived just as the rest of the six months in the Gambiers, Tuamotus Easter Island, and you might find lighter and Marquesas. By doing this eastern winds. For Dave and Sherry, exploring the underwater realms of the islands they visit adds immeasur- Once south of about 22°S, you are part of French Polynesia backward from ably to the richness of their travels. the normal Milk Run route, we avoided no longer in the trade winds. The the crowded anchorages. This route also most settled weather is in the positioned us for an easy sail to Hawaii southern summer, January to in late September/early October for the March, so that is the best time upcoming southern cyclone season. to make this trip. The remaining (More on this later.) comments in option 3 above apply. Via Peru and/or Chile For those who sail down to Peru or Wintering in Hawaii Chile first, it makes sense to leave from Even with a six-month Long any port in western South America and Stay Visa we felt somewhat sail directly to Easter Island. If leaving rushed to visit the Gambiers, from Chile, the normal route is to stop in Tuamotus and Marquesas, espe- the Juan Fernandez Islands, 600 miles cially with the superb scuba div- out (where Scottish sailor Alexander Sel- ing we found in the Tuamotus. So kirk was marooned in the early 1700s, we delayed our progress west by apparently inspiring Daniel Defoe's novel “wintering over” in Hawaii during Robinson Crusoe). the southern cyclone season. SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISING STRATEGIES —

Wintering Over clone/typhoon seasons. Since the trade Options for winds generally flow from the north- a v o i d i n g t h e east north of the equator and from the southern storm southeast south of the equator, moving s e a s o n a n d north and south within about 20° of the delaying your equator is relatively easy. It is only when progress farther you want to go back east that things get west include: more difficult, although not impossible. staying in any Here's an example of what is possible place within 8° during a multiple-year Pacific cruise. of the equator or We're currently in Tonga. In our third anywhere north year we plan to visit Fiji during the of it, hauling out southern winter cruising season, start- at a cyclone-pro- ing in May, then move north to the Mar- tected boatyard, and tying to a strong mooring

SHERRY McCAMPBELL SHERRY Only a few Americans in a protected As evidenced by this photo from the Tuamotus, storm anchorage. take more than six French Polynesian kids are among the friendli- Cyclone season cruising destinations months to cross est you're likely to meet anywhere. across the Pacific include such places as cruisers were leaving for the 1,200-mile Hawaii, the Line Islands, Kiribati Islands, the Pacific. crossing south to New Zealand. This can the Gilberts, the Marshalls, Micronesia, be a dangerous crossing, which must be New Zealand, the Solomons, and Papua shalls in October to avoid the southern done again coming north the next year. New Guinea. In French Polynesia there cyclone season. For us, the next few weeks involved are a number of good places to haul out In our fourth year we'll remain in securing our boat for the two months we (some where they will bury your keel the Marshalls over the northern winter would be on vacation back in the U.S. in the sand), including Apataki in the and summer for the diving season — as November and December are officially at Tuamotus, and Tahiti and Raiatea in you might have guessed, we love scuba the start of the southern cyclone season, the Societies. Farther west, both Tonga diving. Once the northwestern Pacific but because Tonga rarely experiences (Vava’u) and Fiji (Savusavu/Buda Point) typhoon season has died down, prob- cyclones then, it was a good time for have strong storm moorings in well- ably in January, we'll move west through us to be away from the boat. We used protected hurricane holes. the Federated States of Micronesia just a strong mooring maintained by some south of 10° N to Palau. We'll remain former cruisers at Tapana (The Moorings' The Western Pacific in Palau through the northern summer anchorage 11 on the charts), south of the From French Polynesia westward to and most of the following winter. In main harbor at Neiafu, Vava'u. There are Australia the distances between stops March we'll use the Northwest Monsoon also a number of strong moorings avail- are much shorter, and there are many to cruise southeast to New Guinea, the able right inside Neiafu harbor. options for things to see and do. You'll Solomon Islands and the relative safety There are many reasons for taking find island groups on both sides of the of the equator. (See chartlet.) more than one season to see French equator, and thus the opportunity exists The following year in May, during Polynesia. Not all are obvious until you've to cruise north and south to avoid the cy- the southern winter cruising season, been here for a while and have talked to some of the many international cruisers SOUTH PACIFIC RESOURCES who have spent multiple years here and in the western Pacific. At present, very There are many worthwhile resources on cruis- • South Pacific Anchorages by Warwick Clay, few Americans spend more than three ing the South Pacific. These are some favorites: 2nd ed, 2001 months in French Polynesia and only a Charlie’s Charts of Polynesia by Charles and • The Pacific Crossing Guide – RCCPF/OCC, few take more than six months to cross Margo Wood, updated 2007. Very detailed guide 2nd ed, 2003 covering most islands from Easter and Hawaii to • Sailingbird’s Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga the Pacific to New Zealand or Australia 165 west. by Charles Paul, 1st ed, 2004 during their first year. After that the • Guide to Navigation and Tourism in French • Moon and Lonely Planet Guides normal Milk Run brings cruisers from Polynesia by Bonnette and Deschamps, 1999. • Soggy Paws’ Compendiums by Sherry Mc- New Zealand back north to Fiji or Tonga, This hardbound book has nice color pictures and Campbell, 2011. Separate Internet documents then all the way to Australia at the end of chartlets with good navigation and ashore informa- cover the Marquesas, Tuamotus, Societies and their second southern cruising season. tion, but only covers selected popular islands. Hawaii. Each is an extensive island-by-island sum- The major reasons most cruisers don't • Exploring the Marquesas Islands by Joe Rus- mary of all the information available on the Internet take longer are cyclone seasons and im- sell, 2000. This small but excellent guide has lots from cruisers’ websites, blogs and forums. Included migration issues. But in some cases it of detailed info for both ashore and navigation, with are references to guide book coverage when avail- exceptionally detailed chartlets. able, detailed information on weather forecasting, is just poor prior planning. For others it • The French Polynesia Dive Guide by Kurt weather sources, a current estimator and advice is the rush to get west for one reason or Amsler, 2000. Nice glossy dive guide to 27 selected for atoll passes, and the best scuba sites. They another. And then there are those that scuba sites mostly in the Societies. Features 3D may be downloaded free at: http://svsoggypaws. just want to stay with their Milk Run dive site maps with many photos. com/files buddies. • Landfalls of Paradise by Earl Hinz, 1999 — dave & sherry

Page 100 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 AN OCEAN FULL OF OPTIONS

the western North Pacific is June to November, but there can be ty- we'll continue south, then west, phoons any month. Only the area through Vanuatu and New Cale- within about 8° either side of the donia to Australia. equator is a relatively safe zone. The ITCZ — The Inter Tropical Major Cruising Issues Convergence Zone (ITCZ), not to Below are three of the more be confused with the SPCZ further difficult issues you must deal with southwest, is an area of frequent when deciding how to cross the thunderstorms and squalls of eastern Pacific through French variable magnitude, within about Polynesia: 10° of the equator. Crossing it Immigration — Unless you safely involves careful boat prepa- obtained a Long Stay Visa prior ration, timing, and good access to to arrival, French Polynesia al- weather resources. lows U.S. citizens to stay only 90 days in a six-month period, although the What's the rush? Rather than making a beeline boat can stay for a year. No exceptions. for 'Oz', Sherry and Dave plan to visit many We hope some of you reading this (For Long Stay details see: www.paci- parts of the Pacific over five years. will consider planning a multiple-year ficpuddlejump.com/longstayvisa.html) storm formation; therefore summer visit to the South and Western Pacific. We Keep up to date on the regulations at is storm season in both hemispheres. think you'll find this vast and beautiful Jimmy Cornell’s website, www.noonsite. El Niño years allow warm water, and area to be one of the highlights of any com. EU citizens are allowed to stay in therefore storms, to move farther east. 'round-the-world voyage. French Polynesia for two years without Cyclone season in the southwest Pacific, — dave mccampbell having to do any extra paperwork. including most of French Polynesia, is Tropical Storms — Storm seasons November to May. Hurricane season To study details of Dave and Sherry's drive timing for a safe cruise across the along the Central American coast is cruising plans, along with chartlets, see: Pacific. Warm water and air enhance June to November. Typhoon season in www.svsoggypaws.com.

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 101 AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AMERICA'S CUP 34

With just 18 months to go before what most local sailors hope will be the support some cause you really oppose, Finals of the 34th America's Cup on San but then complain that you can't support Francisco Bay, we thought we'd reset it because it doesn't go far enough. As the scene with an Insider's Guide. After in, "The America's Cup's guarantee to all, it's been confusing because of the build a waterfront so clean you can eat new format, the many changes, and the off the ground is an encouraging start, potentially game-changing variables that but just doesn't go far enough in cleaning have yet to be fully resolved. up the area." Or, "Yes, we believe the Cup The biggest possible game-changer will create jobs, but until every person to what will likely be the wildest sailing in San Francisco can be guaranteed a event in history, given the yet-unfinished 20-hour-a-week job that will allow him/ and unsailed 72-ft cats with 40-knot po- her/unsure to afford a new house, a new tential, is that it might not even happen car, and luxurious retirement at age 40, on San Francisco Bay. the jobs just aren't adequate." The assumption has always been that After the Planning Commission's ap- the America's Cup Finals will be held proval, the groups had 20 days to file an on the Bay, and that there will be many appeal. Alas, we had to write this before changes on the San Francisco waterfront any group decided whether to appeal. to accommodate these events. But as we If they did appeal, the Board would said when the San Francisco venue was then have 30 days to take action. The first announced, it provides a once-in- combination of the appeal and response a-lifetime opportunity for any number periods means that the Board of Supes of petty bureaucrats and/or activist would have to take action in or before groups, be they serious or merely The early February. The Board could approve Friends of Bedbugs and Mosquitoes, a the FEIR, or request modifications before chance to throw a wrench into the works eventually voting to uphold the FEIR, and/or even keep it from happening. while a settlement could also be agreed Yes, it's true that in December the San between the parties before or after the Francisco Planning Commission voted Board takes up the matter. unanimously to certify the Environmental Experts say that such back-and-forth Impact Report for the '13 America's Cup. on certifications and appeals is not un- But that was just a start, because now usual in the California Environmental more than a dozen agencies need to con- Quality Act process, and does not mean groups can take the matter to court. As sider the issues within their jurisdictions a lawsuit is imminent. And the language we remember from the 33rd America's before the event can get final approval. of the various members of the coalition Cup, once the matter hits the courts, And then there are the various activist asking for delay is not entirely hostile. there is no telling what might happen or and environmental groups. Despite the "I think it will be approved in a timely how many delays there might be. Given widespread cooperation from many envi- fashion," Jon Golinger, president of the all the work that needs to be done on the ronmental groups, a few have complained Telegraph Hill Dwellers, told the San San Francisco waterfront for the Cup, that the "final" and how little time EIR did not REALITY CHECK there is to get it sufficiently de- done, it's not out tail the scope We think many objections to the Cup on the Bay have been motivated by a fervent desire to strike out of the question of mitigation at the Filthy Rich. The FR are conveniently personified by Oracle's Larry Ellison, estimated by some to be that the Cup will the third wealthiest American with a net worth of something like $33 billion. That got us musing about how programs, have to be post- much Larry really cares about the America's Cup. and does not It's total speculation, but at age 67, and having already won the America's Cup once, we imagine Ellison poned or moved guarantee the probably cares most about are: 1) his family; 2) his health; 3) Oracle; 4) his many residences. After that, to another venue. sources of fund- we're not sure what. Maybe his jets. While a cloud of ing under cer- The way we see it, Larry hired Russell Coutts, at many millions of dollars a year, to be his paladin to 'take uncertainty would tain scenarios. care' of the America's Cup. But he, Larry, doesn't have that much of his personal wealth or passion invested not be welcome, It's hard to in it. As a result, we don't think he loses a minute's sleep worrying about whether or not the America's Cup even if a lawsuit know which will be held on San Francisco Bay. You'll remember that Ellison made a bid to buy the Golden State Warriors did result, it does group's ob- last year, and could have easily outbid anyone by billions. But when it reached a certain price — peanuts not necessar- to Ellison — he simply lost interest. We think he's probably got the same attitude toward the America's Cup jections are ily mean a court on San Francisco Bay. If it's not going to cost too much in terms of money and annoyances, fine. But if it genuine, and becomes a pain, he'll just have Coutts and crew take it elsewhere. So if anyone thinks they are making would issue an in- which, if any, Ellison's life miserable by all the objections, it's our opinion that they're mistaken. junction prevent- are motivated ing the event from primarily by a desire to derail the Cup. Francisco Chronicle. "Other projects have going forward. More likely, the length of But the one thing we know from going come in with a high-handed manner. the process and the uncertainty of the to Berkeley in the '60s, and from page That was not the case here. We're mostly outcome would prompt negotiation. If we 18 of our autographed copy of Saul happy." Cross fingers. understand the word 'negotiation' in this Alinsky's How to Screw Up Anything, is But if the Board doesn't take action context, it's French for being bought off that an effective strategy is to vocally that satisfies the activist groups, the with a sufficient amount of money. But

AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY Page 102 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY — INSIDER'S GUIDE

about 50% more than it does in the United States. One of the goals of racing the AC45s in the World Among those left standing include Series is to teach the crews how to sail wing-sail Artemis from Sweden, the Challenger of boats before graduating to the big girls. Record ever since the Club Nautico di Roma's Mascalzone Latino dropped out. This Swedish syndicate is being head- lined by Marin native and St. Francis YC member Paul Cayard. For previous America's Cups, Cayard has famously been an Italian, a San Diegan, a San Franciscan, and we're not sure what else. It's not that Cayard is a man without a country (or region), it's just the way the America's Cup game is played. There's also the strong Emirates Team New Zealand. The United Arab Emirates (UAE), a federation of seven sheikdoms on the Persian Gulf and in the Gulf of Oman, was never known for sailing tradition or skill, but then they bought New Zealand, moved it to eastern Arabia, and have become contenders. Or it could be that the largest airline in the Middle East, Emirates, is Team New Zealand's primary sponsor. One of the two. The two French teams are Aleph and Energy Team. Despite their many attempts, beginning with Baron Marcel Bich, who brought lots of disposable Bic pens and 12 Meters to America, the French have never done well in the America's Cup. They excel in exotic that's probably just the cynic in us. York to force GGYC not only to accept GUILAIN GRENIER singlehanded events and setting round- In any event, the uncertainty gives their application and hold a Defender the-world records in giant multihulls. hope to Newport, Rhode Island, which Series, but also to provide the group with There's also a Chinese team, which would love to have the America's Cup at least two 45-ft catamarans and pay delights us no end, as it's our belief that back. But other venues might battle for damages in excess of $1 million. the Communists have boycotted this it, too. If we were betting sailors, we'd "We believe the lawsuit was late, lack- 'worker's event' for far too long. say there's a 60% chace the event will ing and lamentable," responded GGYC Team Korea, which has also sailed un- be held on San Francisco Bay, 20% in Vice Commodore Tom Ehman in a burst der the name White Tiger, gives hope that Newport, and 20% in Italy. For what it's of alliteration. If the lawsuit gains any the Bay Area will finally see a better class worth, Ellison bought a big mansion in traction, we also expect a similar lawsuit of Korean BBQ and kimchi. And lastly, Newport, and despite a blip in the stock from something probably to be called there is Green Comm from Barcelona, price of Oracle Corporation, could afford Occupy the America's Cup. But unless Spain, and the Lombardy region of Italy, to buy all of Italy, particularly now that Diaspora and Occupy win their court which will be flying the flag of 'Spitaly' and it's on sale. decision and get money to start their It's hard to tell but Larry Ellison was delighted to go own defense challenges, there will be one for a spin aboard an AC45 with Jimmy Spithill. America's Cup Defender, WHO'S INVOLVED and that will be Oracle. As best we can tell, Oracle Racing was to be the default there have been a total Defender. But in December, a North Caro- of 14 real or imagined lina entity called African Diaspora Mari- Challengers. Six have time Corporation, headed by unnotable gone down the drain. sailor Charles Kithcart, filed suit against Three of these were ap- the Golden Gate YC, saying ADM should parently too shaky to be allowed to compete to be the Defender. ever want to identify ADM was previously last heard from — themselves. There were and only briefly — in '95 when they an- two others from Italy, a nounced they were thinking of being a country which has se- participant in the San Diego America's vere financial problems. Cup. This time around ADM has asked And one from Australia, the Supreme Court of the State of New where everything costs GUILAIN GRENIER

AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 103 AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AMERICA'S CUP 34

is dedicated to "sustainability." Really. LR launched its AC45 last month in rassingly weren't as fast as a lot of other A third Italian team recently joined Auckland, but since they haven't raced boats, Oracle went nuclear by challenging the fracas in the rule-bending way that's in any ACWS events yet, it remains to be Alinghi in the 33rd Cup in Valencia with to be expected with the America's Cup. seen how they will fare. a 90-ft trimaran, the wing mast of which Patrizio Bertelli of House of Prada fame This means that every nation with a wouldn't have fit beneath the roadbed announced in November that his Luna significant sailing history will be compet- of the Golden Gate Bridge. The Swiss Rossa team was officially challenging. To ing. Well, except for England, Germany, answered with a 90-ft catamaran. Never make up for lost time, Bertelli hopped Australia, Denmark, Canada, Singapore, had so much money been spent to design on the elevator — the one that goes Antigua, and Trinidad & Tobago. and build two boats for what turned out straight to the penthouse — by way of a With Oracle defending on behalf of the to be just two races. The two multihulls in deal with Emirates Team New Zealand Golden Gate YC, you might expect that the 33rd America's Cup were spectacular to share design info. (Ironically, the local sailors would be occupying many beasts, but the two-race series wasn't two teams clashed in the Louis Vuitton of the crew positions on the team's AC very satisfying. Cup Finals for the right to challenge 45s that have been sailed to date. Alas, After winning, Oracle embraced the Alinghi in AC32.) This time around, to our knowledge only John Kostecki, idea that America's Cup boats should their "cooperation agreement" gives the who came up through the Richmond and be among the fastest and most exciting Italians, among other things, the plans St. Francis YCs to international sailing boats in the world. The result has been for ETNZ's AC72 design and access to glory, has been on the water on a regular identical 45-ft cats for the America's Cup some data. For their trouble, the Kiwis basis. The other Northern California big World Series road show that precedes the get a sparring partner and more cash to name is, of course, Paul Cayard, but he's big event, and to use as practice vehicles, fund their own campaign. running the Artemis show, although not and the monster 72s that will primarily Of course, this being the America's from the tiller. be used in the Louis Vuitton Cup and Cup, there was bound to be fighting. the America's Cup Finals. Oracle and Artemis asked the The idea of competing with a ball of International Jury to issue a verdict on THE BOATS one size in the regular season, and a the ETNZ/LR deal. The final answer: yes, differently sized ball in the playoffs and but with a few restrictions. The bottom After ages of competing for the Finals is one that has taken the world of line is that the arrangement stands. America's Cup in monohulls that embar- sports by storm. Baseball Commissioner Loch Lomond Marina

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Bud Selig has announced paring the speed and that starting next year, power of the 45s to the Major League Baseball 72s is like comparing a will use oversized yellow go-cart to an Indy car. softballs for the regular There are going to be a season, saving the fa- lot of terrified sailors on miliar hardballs for the the Bay in '13, and lots World Series. Similarly, of underwear that will the National Basketball need de-browning after Association's David Stern every race. announced that starting GUILAIN GRENIER As Paul Cayard told next year, the NBA will use sailing journalist Mi- the smaller-sized women's basketballs There will be at least five more World Series races chelle Slade, "It doesn’t take a brain sur- for the regular series, but revert to the in which the AC 45s will go head-to-head. geon to figure out that the handle-ability familiar larger balls for the playoffs and have flipped in racing to date, but there of this seriously over-powered boat, which Finals. have been enough capsizes to keep folks is under-crewed on an extremely short A lot of traditionalists groused that interested. And in any kind of decent course in the windiest venue in the world the multihulls would be a disaster for wind, flipping is always a possibility. In — you multiply all that together and you the America's Cup, as it would no longer previous America's Cups, tactical skills have a shitfight on your hands." be as tactical a competition, nor would and brute strength were very important It doesn't help that the 72s will be as there be as many passing opportuni- for crews. In the 34th Cup, there will be complicated as they are big. As Cayard ties. But thanks to a tweaking of the a greater emphasis on big cojones and told journalist Kimball Livingston, there courses and the inherent instability of nimble athletic ability. are 38 hydraulic cylinders needed to the 45s, this has proved not to be the With the 45s being so edgy in even control the 130-ft tall wing sail on the case. Even the slowest of the teams have moderate conditions, the 72s, which Artemis 72 now under construction. "We found that it's easy to pass the fastest are designed to a box rule, are going to want to avoid running hydraulic piping after the opposition's cat has flipped. be downright scary on windy summer to each of them because that would be We don't know how many times the cats afternoons on San Francisco Bay. Com- heavy, so we have electro-valves embed-

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 105 AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY • AMERICA'S CUP 34 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AMERICA'S CUP 34

ded in the wing to actuate the hydraulics. Once the World Series racing is over in has sometimes been driven by Russell But if you had two wires, positive and '13, everybody gets out of their 45s and Coutts, a Kiwi, and more recently, Simon negative, running to each electro-valve, into their 72s — assuming each team is Daubney, also a Kiwi. See what we mean your wing would look like a PG&E sub- actually going to build one. (There are about the Kiwis? station, and that’s heavy, too, so we use doubts about that.) The Louis Vuitton Down a notch or more for a variety a CAN-bus [controlled area network] Cup will be July 4-September 1, 2013. If of reasons are Artemis, Team Korea, with far fewer wires. Still, it’s incredibly the Diaspora or Occupy win court cases, Energy Team, and Aleph. Consistently complex." there might even be a Defender Series. at the bottom are China and Green While the 72s will be launched this Don't bet the pink slip to your boat on it. Comm Racing. For the environment, we year, they apparently won't be used for If all goes well, the America's Cup Finals hope that the 'sustainability' is indeed racing until the summer of '13. will be held on the Bay September 7-22. sustainable. So far there have been three World Series events: Cascais, Portugal, last WHO'S DOING WELL THIS JUST IN! August; Plymouth, England, in Sep- tember; and a rather damp San Diego in November. There are currently three Who has been kicking ass to date? In mid-January, youthful Brit sail- events remaining for the '11-'12 season Well, you've got the Kiwi Emirates, which ing legend Ben Ainslie made a two-part of World Series: April 7-15 in Naples, is no surprise, as Kiwis have had as announcement. The first is that he has Italy; May 12-20 in Venice, Italy; and great an impact on the America's Cup signed with the Oracle team for the 34th June 23-July 1 in Newport, Rhode Is- as African Americans have had on bas- America's Cup. The second is that he'll land. If some venue wants to pony up the ketball. Tied with them in first place in be putting together his own America's bucks, other sites could be added. And the Overall Fleet Racing Championship is Cup team for the 35th America's Cup, then it gets really interesting, because Oracle Racing Spithill, which is also just wherever and whenever that might be. the first two scheduled World Series one point behind the Kiwi Emirates in the But the most controversial aspect of his events of the '12-'13 season will be held overall match racing standings. Emirates announcement was that he will be put- on San Francisco Bay August 11-19 and is being driven by Dean Barker, a Kiwi. ting together his own team for the rest of August 27-September 2, when there is a Oracle Spithill is being driven by James the World Series events, then jump ship good chance the wind will blow hard. Spithill, an Aussie. And Oracle Coutts for the Finals to sail with Oracle.

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Ben brings some welcome 'bad boy' the 1/100th of 1%, it had suddenly be- therefore jobs. But hey, ideological purity cred to the America's Cup, as during came the favorite viewing area of the Bay is everything. Just ask anyone who has December's Finn Worlds in Perth, Aus- for a vocal segment of the other 99.99%. been condemned to live in Cuba for the tralia — a really big deal in really small Alas, we think it was a 'cut off your nose last 40 years. boats — he created quite a ruckus. Feel- to spite your face' move because, like or With hardly any Americans sailing on ing that the wake of the press boat had not, the gather- the American boats, and with Northern interfered with him, he leapt off his Finn, ing of dozens California's perhaps most accomplished climbed onto the photoboat, and angrily of 150- to 250- sailor running the Swedish team from confronted a cameraman. Officials dis- ft boats would shore, it's kind of hard to feel a lot of qualified him from two races for behavior probably be the home court pride in the event. And it is unbecoming an officer and a gentleman biggest single a billionaire's game that's hard for most — or something like that — and there attraction of people to identify with. Nonetheless, we went his Worlds. Ainslie hasn't become the America's support it for the simple reason that we what John McEnroe was to tennis back Cup. Bigger expect it will provide the wildest sailing in the '80s, but there's hope. than even the action the planet has ever seen. It's going In other news, if bureaucrats and racing. It's a GILLES MARTIN-RAGET to happen somewhere, and the money is activist groups don't derail the America's guilty pleasure going to flow, so why shouldn't it happen Cup on San Francisco Bay, current plans of almost all and flow on San Francisco Bay? call for the team bases to be to the south the aspiration- Ben Ainslie is bringing his bad A lot of sailors we've talked to said of the Bay Bridge, between the bridge al folks to gawk self to the Oracle team. they are going to watch the event from and South Beach Harbor. The start/fin- at the trappings of tremendous wealth. their boats, from Angel Island, from Pier ish line, as well as the big video screens And if anyone would be more attracted 39, this or that yacht club, or what have and all the rest, will be at Pier 19. to the megayachts than the aspiration- you. We suppose we'll do some of each of Under the guise of politcal correctness, als, it's the progressives, who hate them those over a period of weeks. But when the Private Spectator Yacht Marina, which with every cell in their bodies. Losing the it comes to the last races of the Finals, was to be northwest of the Bay Bridge, residency of those yachts is going to cost we want to be with the hordes at the AC has been eliminated. Since this marina San Francisco a whole lot more money Village. We hope to see you there. was to be for the megayachts owned by than we think most people realize. And — latitude/richard

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 107 MAX EBB

It had been a very late night at the office for my entire work group, finishing a major proposal just barely ahead of a sight. It was a rapid clicking sound, like prised that he knew my name since I tight deadline. And this was followed by the sound made by those old IBM PC couldn't recall ever meeting him. Sensing an early morning because it had fallen keyboards. Maybe someone was in the my confusion, he rattled off the name on me to personally drive the package to office after all. and class of my boat, and how I'd done the client's office in Marin. I followed the sound to a door and in the last couple of regattas. I got it there on time, but as I was pulled it open. Luckily I didn't just barrel I handed over the folder. “Here’s the about to pull onto the freeway to drive through as I was greeted by a gaping hole. copy and photo, and the check,” I said home for some badly needed sleep, I There was a ladder down to the base- hopefully. remembered that I had one more errand ment level of the house, but it was way “Deadline was yesterday, you know. in this neck of the woods: A friend was too steep to be up to code as a stairway And we are very very strict about the putting his boat up for sale, and I'd vol- — it was more like classified deadline. unteered to drop off the Classy Classified the companionway But for you, Max, ad copy, with photo, at the Latitude 38 of a large sailboat. we can slip it in. office. The deadline for classified ads was I turned around Heck, we probably the day before, but I hoped that if I caught and climbed down, won't start laying them early in the day — and begged and facing the stairs it out till next week pleaded — I could get the ad in under the in good nautical anyway, so if you wire for next month's issue. form. promise not to tell I groped for one of the copies that The sound be- anyone I'll sneak it usually clutter up my back seat, found came louder, and I into the middle of the address, keyed it into my car's GPS, followed it past an- and a few minutes later I was on a quiet other set of desks, street just off Mill Valley's main drag, in these even more front of an old frame house. cluttered than the This didn't seem right — I expected ones upstairs, and the Latitude 38 editorial office to be a then around the large modern building in the business last corner to the district with contemporary corporate left. There was one styling. I double checked the address last desk, and one and looked again at my GPS. This had person hard at to be it. work at his termi- No one answered the doorbell and nal, typing at high there was no response to my knocks. speed. The door was open, so I let myself in. He looked exact- This was the Latitude 38 World Head- ly the way I always quarters, all right. Posters of past covers imagined a sailing lined the walls, files and folders covered journalist should Believe it or not, this modest little house is where the desks, computer monitors displayed look: Kind of big the 'Latitude 38' magic happens. page layouts and ad copy. File cabinets and athletic but not at all slender, with and shelves filled up every available bit of reddish hair and a bushy mustache, and space, and every horizontal surface was a slightly weathered face. He wore shorts three-deep in papers, folders, magazines and flip-flops, even though it was a cold and random sailing artifacts. day in the middle of winter, and a shirt from a Big Boat Series held 10 years ago. This didn't seem right The desk was piled high with sailing magazines from all over the world. There — I expected it to be a were stacks of race results, photos of top- large modern building end race boats, and a large three-speed winch. There was a large broken rudder in the business district. blade leaning against the opposite wall, and sailbags on the floor. "They all must be out to lunch," I "Ahoy!" I hailed to get his attention. concluded, noting that it was already a The writer glanced over in my direc- few minutes past noon. So I found the tion. "Cone of silence, please," he whis- one unobstructed chair in the office and pered with a finger in front of his lips. He sat down to wait for the staff to return. turned back to his keyboard to finish a paragraph, then swiveled around in his chair to face me. A couple of minutes later I became "Hi, Max," he said. "What brings you aware of a very faint sound that seemed down to the dungeon?" to be coming from the middle of the "I just came by to drop off a Classy building, around a corner just out of Classified for a friend," I said, a bit sur-

Page 108 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 WEIRD SCENES INSIDE THE GOLD MINE

"Thanks," I said, as I confirmed that the compass really worked. "This is a the pile." you guys write about the same events great little party favor." "Thank you, thank you!" I blurted, year after year, and always manage to "Max, you should take over this still taking in the perfectly organized make it sound fresh." job!” mayhem that engulfed the racing desk "Yeah, it doesn't always come easy," "I couldn't do that," I joked as I at Latitude. he admitted. "And then there’s the travel. dropped the gift into my jacket pocket. "You know, you'd do a lot better with You can't write anything worthy about "I can tell you love it too much to ever that old boat if it had a transom scoop the BVI Spring Regatta, or the Admiral’s give it up." and a new number one." he advised. Cup, or Antigua Race Week unless you He rolled his eyes, but not convinc- "I'm impressed," I said, admitting that go there." ingly. "Okay, here's a more serious a new jib was at the top of my upgrade "Hey, somebody has to do it," I re- proposition: I need one more crew for the list. "You must know secret details about minded him. race on my boat this weekend — haven't every racing sailboat on the Bay." "But why me?" he complained, al- had time to even make the crew calls." “You wouldn't believe some of the though his overacting gave him away. "I thought you sold that thing," I spooge I deal with," he sighed, leaning "I've got more swag than I can use in said. back in his chair, blue eyes twinkling. a lifetime. Here, take one of these little "I repossessed it . . . for the third "Look at this one — some wingnut wins magnetic compasses they were giving out time!" he said. "It's been a great source a beer can race with his Rub-A-Dub 26 in St. Martin — it slips right onto your of supplemental income, and usually and thinks his boat should have a fea- watch band." comes back in better condition than ture story and a centerfold spread." As Max made his way deeper into the editorial when I sell it. Hey, this last time it came "Still," I said, "I have to admire the way dungeon, the tapping grew louder . . . back with a new 3DL main and a couple of tape drive headsails. I should sell it more often!" The crew offer was tempting. A chance to play with the cool kids. But I'd made other plans for the weekend, and more likely than not I'd be called back to the office to prepare supplemental information to add to our big proposal. "I'll have to pass this time," I said. "But put me on your crew list. And thanks again for getting in my friend's ad." "Aw, don't mention it," he said as he turned his attention back to his keyboard. "But can you do me a favor and tell Lee, if you see her, to be a little early? We're going to do some practice sets before the race." "This guy knows everything about PHOTOS LATITUDE / LADONNA LATITUDE PHOTOS everyone," I thought to myself as I agreed to get the message to Lee, if I could. I loitered for another few seconds to take in the ambiance, marveling that I was inside the very belly of the beast. My eye was drawn to the one photo in this corner of the office that depicted something of great natural beauty other than a sailboat. "Is that your girlfriend?" I asked. "Max, you are out of touch with popular culture. That's supermodel Heidi Klum; she sailed with us at the Bitter End Yacht Club Pro-Am event." “You do have it rough,” I said to the writer. “Anyway, I should be heading home. Coffee break's over, back on your head!" He nodded to acknowledge that he got the joke. “Spooge on!”

I made my way back up the ladder to the main floor, but nearly tripped over a loose shoelace so I sat down again

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 109 MAX EBB

in that one empty chair to secure it. chair, "and dreamed the whole thing. My I yawned and stretched, aware again apologies." of how tired I was after the very short I followed her down the steep lad- Then I tried to explain that I had been off-watch at home the previous night. der again, past the work stations on up most of the night. But what happened Then the door opened and in walked the lower level and around the corner to those papers I'd had with me? two women from the Latitude staff, back to the racing desk. But the desk was "I'm sure you'll be fine after you get from lunch. clean! There was no computer terminal, some rest," they assured me as they "What can we do for you?" one and no regatta posters, no sailbags, no gently pushed me out the front door. asked. "So much for getting my friend's ad "Actually I'm all set," I said. "I just in for next month," I sighed when my stopped by to drop off something with The desk was clean! No search for the ad copy in the car didn't your racing editor downstairs." turn up anything except more old back "That's odd," she said. "We don't have computer, no posters, issues of Latitude. a racing editor." no three-speed winch, "Really?" I said with much surprise. "Then who was I just talking to down no photo of Heidi Klum. But there's still something I can't there?" figure out. The ad showed up two days "There's nobody downstairs," she three-speed winch, no picture of Heidi later in the online version of the Classies, repeated. Klum. And no folder with the ad copy and when the next hard-copy issue came "But I just gave him some papers," I and photo -— the counter I'd just seen out, there it was. I suppose the folder insisted. the writer put it on was bare. could have fallen behind the chair, and The two women looked at each other, "That's weird," was all I could manage when the staff found it they didn’t know then looked back at me suspiciously. It as we returned to the main floor. it was submitted late. But my friend said wasn't clear if they were more concerned "I guess I must have dozed off while his check never cleared. that someone had let himself into the sitting here waiting for you to come back And I still can't explain where this building or that I was losing my mind. from lunch," I said, pointing lamely to the little compass on my watch band came "Let's go down and have a look," one from . . . . of them suggested. — max ebb

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 111 THE RACING

January saw a mix of weather conditions for local racing, such as the Regat- taPro/SYC Midwinters, EYC's Jack Frost Midwinters and CYC's Midwin- ters. A West Coast sailor wins the Rolex Yachtsman of the Year and the Volvo gets weird. And, as usual, Race Notes.

Rolex Yachtspeople of the Year Cup in Annapolis. San Diego's Bill Hardesty, reigning The pair will be honored at a luncheon Etchells World Champ, attracted the na- on February 22 at St. Francis YC. tional spotlight last month when he was — latitude / chris named the 2011 Rolex Yachtsman of the Year. Joining Hardesty on the podium is RegattaPRO/SYC Winter One Design Anna Tunnicliffe of Plantation, Florida, Thirty-three boats turned out for the the first woman to be honored with the January installment of the RegattaPRO/ award four years in a row! SYC Winter One Design Series (third of Besides winning the Etchells champi- four), which featured clear skies and onship and other major Etchells regattas more wind than forecast. With winds as skipper, Bill has excelled as tactician hovering around eight knots and steady over the past year, with diverse and far- all day from the northwest, the day's two flung wins such as the Congressional races were both completed. Sitting just Cup in Long Beach, the Monsoon Cup in west of the Circle, the venue saw an all- Malaysia, the Portimão Portugal Match day ebb. The forecast had said the wind Cup, the Stena Match Cup in Sweden, would clock from NNW to W and then to the Open de España Match Race in SW, so when the breeze began to die off Spain, and the CMRC Grade 2 Invita- about three-quarters of the way through tional in Chicago. the first race, the RC began discussions “This is a huge honor,” said Hardesty. on how to quickly reset for the impend- “The long list of past winners is very ing shift. However, just as the last boats impressive and includes people who I were finishing the first race, the pressure have always considered to be the best built back up, the wind still coming from in the world. A lot of credit goes to the the northwest. teams I raced with this past year. Sailing In the first race, several boats in the JEFF ZARWELL / REGATTAPRO JEFF ZARWELL is truly a group effort and winning this J/120 fleet decided to go shrimping at award would never have been possible the leeward mark. Remaining fleets man- without great teammates: the Etchells aged to fight off the urge, but had issues 10; 3) E.T., Tony English, 14. (4 boats) World Championship team of Steve of their own, such as wraps, slow hoists, Complete results at www.regattapro.com Hunt, Mandi Markee and Craig Leweck, and so on. In the second race, everyone had figured out the preferred side of the Volvo Ocean Race course, which made the RC a bit nervous The second leg of the Volvo Race — over the J/105 start since it had 16 boats which started 11 editions ago in '73 as on the line. However they were all gentle- the Whitbread Around the World Race — men/women and behaved themselves, from Cape Town to Abu Dhabi, was one with Walter Sanford's Alchemy executing of the weirdest in yacht racing history, a textbook start, dead on the line at the all to avoid the pirates of the Arabian gun. Sea. The six entries, with sailors from 15 Aside from wanting to put on good countries, all competing in Volvo Open races, the RC had to deal with one other 70 V3s, raced to an undisclosed location challenge: get two good races off, yet get in the Indian Ocean, where they were the fleets back in time for the second loaded onto a ship, taken past the danger MANDI MARKEE/AMORY ROSS/USSTAG MANDI MARKEE/AMORY half of the Niners game. Mission accom- area, then dropped off not far from Abu San Diego's Bill Hardesty and Florida's Anna Tun- plished! Dhabi to resume racing. nicliffe were named the 2011 Rolex Yachtsman and — jeff zarwell Second leg honors went to Franck Yachtswoman of the year. 'Multihull' Cammas and his French crew and Team GAC Pindar skippered by Ian REGATTAPRO/SAUSALITO YC WINTER ONE aboard Groupama, who are noted pri- Williams." DESIGN SERIES STANDINGS (1/14; 6r, 1t) marily for their for bold tactical moves. Anna Tunnicliffe led her women's J/120 — 1) Grace Dances, Dick Swanson, Nearing the finish they rolled Spain's match racing Team Maclaren (with 8 points; 2) Desdemona, John Wimer, 10; 3) Team Telefónica, which nonetheless con- crew Molly Vandemoer of Stanford and Chance, Barry Lewis, 15. (7 boats) tinues to hold the overall lead. The biggest Debbie Capozzi of Bayfield, NY) to an J/105 — 1) Wonder, Tom Kennelly, 15 points; American personality in the event is New ISAF Sailing World Championship that 2) Walloping Swede, Theresa Brandner, 16; 3) Englander Ken Read, skipper of PUMA, Wianno, Ed Walker, 20. (18 boats) qualified them for a berth in the Elliott MELGES 24 — 1) Personal Puff, Dan Hauser- making his second Volvo run. While lead- 6m keelboat event at the '12 Olympics. man, 5 points; 2) Wilco, Douglas Wilhelm, 11; 3) ing in the very early going of the third leg Other winning venues for the team this Smokin', Kevin Clark, 13. (6 boats) to Sanya, China, PUMA is way down in year include Skandia Sail for Gold in ANTRIM 27 — 1) Always Friday, John Lieben- Weymouth, UK, and the Santa Maria berg, 5 points; 2) Abracadabra, Ian Chamberlin,

Page 112 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 SHEET

the day, further extending his lead in the overall series standings. With the challenging conditions on the day, only three Santana 22s took the start, with Anna Alderkamp’s Byte Size trading bullets with Jonathan Andrews’ Bonito. — ronnie simpson

ENCINAL YC JACK FROST SERIES STANDINGS (1/21; 4r, 0t) PHRF ≤119 — 1) Jet Stream, JS9000 Dan Al- varez, 11 points; 2) Vitesse Too, Hobie 33, Grant Hayes, 14; 3) Red Cloud, Farr 36, Don Ahrens, 14. (6 boats) SF30 — 1) Shameless, Schumacher 30, George Ellison, 5 points; 2) Audacious, J/29, Scott Christensen, 9; 3) Elusive, Olson 911, Charles Pick, 11. (4 boats) Wyliecat 30 — 1) Uno, Steve Wonner, 5 points; 2) Whirlwind, Dan Benjamin, 9; 3) Crinan II, Bill West, 16. (3 boats) PHRF 120-233 — 1) Ypso, Cal 2-27, Tim Stapleton, 6 points; 2) Synchronicity, Olson 25, Steve Smith, 11; 3) Osituki, Cal 28, Rodney Pi- mentel, 13. (4 boats) SANTANA 22 — 1) Byte Size, Anna Alderkamp, 7 points; 2) Bonito, Jonathan Andrews, 11; 3) Zin- garo, Jennifer McKenna, 20. (3 boats) Complete results at www.encinal.org.

Corinthian YC Midwinters “I can’t remember when we’ve had wind like this at a Corinthian Midwin- ters,” said Ian Matthew aboard his C&C Mellow conditions allowed the RegattaPRO the carnage in the first race, most of the 29 Siento el Viento. The weather gods fleet to make it back in time for the game. fleet never popped a chute in race two, had surely smiled, for Saturday's miser- points because she lost her mast in an with nearly half the fleet tucking in a reef able forecast had given way to a simply earlier leg. But there are six legs to go instead. beautiful race day with decent — if a little before it's all over in Galway, Ireland, in In the PHRF 119 and under class, squirrely — winds and dry conditions. July, and anything can happen. Don Ahrens’ Farr 36 Red Cloud recovered A strong ebb made for longer downwind The Volvo Race has an absolutely from a blown jib halyard in the first race runs but brought a risk of the traditional terrific website atwww.volvooceanrace. to turn in a consistent 3-2 scorecard for pile-up near the finish if the wind died. A com, which is clear and easy to use, but the day, claiming the top spot on the few spinnaker boats, once on the water, at the same time provides a staggering score sheet. Tony Pohl’s Farr 40 Twisted found the conditions not to their liking amount of information for those inter- won the first race before Daniel Alvarez’s (“Uh, Race Committee? We’re changing ested in all the nitty gritty. Well done! JS9000 Jet Stream bounced back from to non-spinnaker division.”) And yes, this is the event that San Fran- a DNF in race one due to a kite around PRO Don Wieneke split the fleets, cisco Bay sailors Paul Cayard and John the keel to take a close win in race two. 'Team Telefónica' has had some stiff competition in Kostecki both won a few years ago. In the SF30 class, George Elli- the VOR but has managed to hold onto the lead. — latitude / richard son’s Schumacher 30 Shameless sailed to a Jack Frost Midwinter Series pair of wins, increas- It was a wet and wild day of sailing ing his series lead over on January 21 for Round 2 of Encinal Scott Christensen’s YC’s Jack Frost Midwinter Series. With active J/29 Audacious. breeze in the mid-20s, puffs nearing 30, The Wyliecat 30 class and a five-knot ebb, it was one of those saw Steve Wonner’s Midwinter races that had a decidedly Uno trade wins with summer-like feel. The intimidating con- Dan Benjamin’s Whirl- ditions on the Central Bay led to only 22 wind, with the latter boats taking the start, as several com- claiming top honors petitors bailed at the last minute, while of the day. In PHRF many never even left the dock. Owing to 120 to 233, it was Tim Stapleton’s well-sailed Cal 2-27 Ypso winning IAN ROMAN / VOLVO OCEAN RACE IAN ROMAN / VOLVO THE RACING TOP ROW PHOTOS FRED FAGO ROW PHOTOS TOP ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE / ANDY EXCEPT AS NOTED EXCEPT ANDY / LATITUDE PHOTOS ALL

Top row: Windy racing in the Jack Frost. Left to right: Don Ahrens’ Farr 36 ‘Red Cloud’ in pre-start mode; Olson 25s ‘Samba’ and ‘Synchronicity’; ‘Red Cloud’ at a finish; Tim Stapleton’s Cal 2-27 ‘Ypso’. Second and third row: Same day, at the Corinthian Midwinters. Clockwise: the Robinsons’ Santana 22 ‘Belafonte’; Mark Thompson’s Catalina 380 ‘Seaya’; Tom Hintz’s Express 27 ‘Opa!’; Gary Proctor’s C&C 30 ‘Meritime’; Bob Rogers’ Seaborn 35 ‘Sunda’, Christine Weaver’s Laser 28 ‘Stink Eye’ and Rich Korman’s Moore 24 ‘JR’; Jeff McQueen’s Tartan 30 ‘Isle of Skye’; Ron Young’s IOD ‘Youngster’ closes in on Non-Spinnaker ‘Seaya’. sending the bigger boats on a customary north-to-south ebb, forcing several at- touchingly flying a pennant emblazoned point-to-point romp to Yellow Bluff, down tempts at rerounding by more than one with 'ROB', took first in her division. the Cityfront to Blossom Rock, around competitor. Once around Yellow Bluff, Sunday’s forecast: rain all day with Southampton Shoal platform and then the bigger fleet dashed to the Cityfront comparatively light wind. They got the to the finish, while smaller (read: slower) for current relief and a spinnaker show rain right, but steady wind in the 15- racers took a couple of loops in the Cen- as they ran toward Blossom Rock and knot range made for excellent, if chilly, tral Bay. then home. sailing. The currents were, of course, Gusts and the strong current placed The relatively short courses got the pretty much a replay of the day before. an emphasis on boathandling and fleets in by about 3 p.m., just ahead of All fleets were sent toward the East Bay, reading the water. Many positions were the wind's dying. As results were calcu- for a with-the-current finish. Nobody gained or lost due to failure to gauge the lated, we were pleased to see John Claus- complained about the comparatively cost of heading straight for a mark in the er’s developing program on Bodacious+ short courses because they got the fleet current. Mark roundings, particularly eke out a first over Bill Helvestine’s at Yellow Bluff, were complicated by the Deception by a slim six seconds. Yucca,

Page 114 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 SHEET LATITUDE / PENNY LATITUDE in early enough to warm up, get home, points; 2) Trunk Monkey, Farr 30, Jody McCor- Woody Robinson, 7. ( 10 boats) and watch a football game. Speaking of mack, 6; 3) Encore, Sydney 36, 8. (10 boats) EXPRESS 27 — 1) Shenanigans, John Col- consistency, though, 11 of the classes PHRF 3 — 1) Yucca, 8-Meter, Hank Easom, 2 lins, 2 points; 2) Tule Fog, Steve Carroll, 6; 3) are topped by double aces, boats taking points; 2) Baleineau, Olson 34, Charlie Brochard, Opa!, Tom Hintz, 6. (4 boats) first both days. This is not something 4; 3) Ahi, Santana 35, Andy Newell, 6. (10 boats) SF BAY 30 — 1) Gammon, Tartan 10, Jeffrey Hutter, 2 points; 2) Heart of Gold, Olson 911S, CYC Mids see in our normal light-air PHRF 4 — 1) Arcadia, Modernized Santana 27, Gordie Nash, 2 points; 2) Fjaer, IOD, Richard Joan Byrne, 4. (2 boats) “wildcard” weekends. Pearce, 4; 3) Youngster, IOD, Ron Young, 7. (9 J/105 — 1) Roxanne, Charles James, 2 points; — michael moradzadeh boats) 2) Donkey Jack, Rolf & Shannon Kaiser, 5; 3) Joy- NON-SPIN A — 1) Min Flicka, Hanse 370, ride, Bill Hoehler, 5. (4 boats) CORINTHIAN YC MIDWINTERS STANDINGS Julle Le'Vicki, 2 points; 2) Sea Ghost, Beneteau CATALINA 34 — 1) Amandla, Kurt Magdanz, (1/21-22; 2r, 0t) First 42, Ron Roberts, 4; 3) Beowulf, Swan 51, 3 points; 2) Jet Lag, Torin Knorr, 5; 3) E Ticket, PHRF 1 — 1) Topzy Turvy, J/111, Warren Kon- Hakan Bille, 7. (3 boats) Michael Mullen, 5. (3 boats) kel, 4 points; 2) Bodacious+, 1D48, John Clauser/ NON-SPIN B — 1) Seaya, Catalina 380, Mark EXPRESS 37 — 1) Stewball, Bob Harford, 2 Bobbi Tosse, 4; 3) Deception, Santa Cruz 50, Bill Thompson, 2 points; 2) French Kiss, Beneteau points; 2) Golden Moon, Kame Richards, 4; 3) Helvestine, 4. (11 boats) 350, David Borton, 6; 3) Kira, Cal 33-2, Jim Er- Eclipse, Mark Dowdy, 6. (6 boats) PHRF 2 — 1) 8 Ball, Farr 30, Scott Easom, 2 skine, 6. (10 boats) MULTIHULL — 1) Caprice, Seawind 1160, NON-SPIN C — 1) Raccoon, Cal 20, Jim Dan Seifers, 2 points; 2) Serenity, Seawind 1160, Snow, 2 points; 2) Can O'Whoopass, Richard J.E.B. Pickett, 4. (2 boats) vonEhrenkrook, 4; 3) Belafonte, Santana 22, Jim/ Complete results at www.cyc.org.

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 115 THE RACING

Race Notes winters this month. Built The 628-mile Rolex Syd- in '04 in Trinidad for San ney to Hobart Race is one Diego sailor Les Crouch, of the two great middle- Tai Kuai (ex-Storm) was distance ocean races in recommissioned last month the world — along with the at Berkeley Marine Center Fastnet Race — and is often after spending her youth in rough. Eighty-eight boats the Caribbean. answered the call on Boxing "I got a heads-up before Day and were blessed with the boat was listed on the running conditions in the market," said Dan. "I moved early going. But thanks to quickly when I learned how a 180-degree windshift that THIELMAN DAN famously well-built this resulted in up to 40-knot boat is, and about the boat's winds clashing with a northerly swell 'Tai Kuai' gets dressed up. Her name means 'Too racing exploits, including victories at Key from what was left of Tropical Storm Fast' in Mandarin Chinese. "We like how the Asian West and Antigua Race Weeks. characters look on the big spinnaker when we're Fina, the conditions turned miserable. "This year we hope to compete in the bearing down on the competition!" said Dan. The battle for line honors turned out to YRA races, Big Boat Series, Spinnaker be the fourth closest in the 67-year his- and first in IRC C with the modified TP52 Cup and Coastal Cup. I also aspire to tory of the race. Antony Bell's 100-ft Maxi Ragamuffin. Fischer is 84 years old! Heck, some day compete in a TransPac Race Investec Loyal crossed the finish line just he was no kid in the early '80s when he to Hawaii." 3m, 8s ahead of Wild Oats XI after trading was doing Hawaii's Pan Am Clipper Cup. Dan recently sold his Sabre 386 Kuai. the lead several times. According to Bell, New kid in town — Dan Thielman's "I started campaigning a Melges 20 in the Maxi's "secret weapon" was none oth- new-to-him Reichel Pugh 44, Tai Kuai, 2010 at circuit events around the U.S. er than navigator Stan Honey of Palo Alto. plans to make her San Francisco Bay and it became clear to me that my racing The top boat under IRC was the Reichel racing debut at the Corinthian Mid- aspirations had grown bigger than what Pugh 63 Loki, but special recognition is I could accomplish in the Sabre." due Syd Fischer who finished third in IRC — latitude / chris

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Page 116 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 Entry Form SIGN UP FOR THE 2012 RACING SEASON next page!

Welcome to YRA Racing, the best racing value on the bay!

Thank you for participating in the YRA! We offer a choice for racing both on the Bay and on the local ocean!

SERIES INFO RMATION

The YRA Party Circuit • Includes the 3 marquee YRA Weekend Regattas plus the 1 day Summer Sailstice Regatta. Weekend regattas are The Great Vallejo Race, the YRA 2nd Half Opener, and the YRA Season Closer. The three weekend regattas features 2 days of racing and a party at the host club Saturday night. • Each race is a stand-alone regatta. • There are 6 Divisions available for each Regatta: PHRF, Sportboat, One-Design, Double/Singlehanded, Non-Spinnaker & Multihull. Divisions may be split into multiple fleets to ensure competitive racing.

The YRA Series • In the Bay racing for boats with a current NCPHRF rating certificate (HDA) or for One-Design classes (ODCA). • The series consists of 6 races- YRA 1 (1 race) YRA 2 (2 races) YRA 3 (one race) YRA 4 (2 races). • HDA Divisions are determined by grouping similarly rated boats. • YRA Series Racers are invited to race in the Crewed Lightship 1 race for an additional $5.00. Additional OYRA equipment requirements must be met. See http://www.yra.org/OYRA/ocean_safety.html. • One-Design starts are available for any fleet that signs up for the ODCA season, or, gets at least 5 boats to sign up for a single race day. If you are not sure if your One-Design fleet is a current ODCA fleet, or would like to sign your fleet up for ODCA, please contact the YRA office at (415) 771-9500 or [email protected].

OYRA (Offshore Yacht Racing Association) • In 2012, there are 9 ocean races ranging from 25 to 60+ nautical. • OYRA racers are invited to race in the Vallejo race for an additional $5.00 • Racers will divided into divisions determined by the OYRA board. Racers can also choose to race in the Short Handed division:

WBRA (Wooden Boat Racing Association • The WBRA participates in the US Sailing Golden Anchor program which makes WBRA racers eligible for a discounted US Sailing Membership. US Sailing memberships through the WBRA Golden Anchor program must be purchased online here: http://www1.ussailing.org/membership/MPP/Default.aspx?ycid=112274N • Bay racing for one of the following 5 fleets: o Bird Boats o Bear Boats o Folkboats o IODs o Knarrs

GENERAL INFORMATION • YRA Sailing Instructions are available on the YRA website at www.yra.org. Sailing instructions are normally posted approximately 2 weeks prior to each race. If you do not have access to the internet and need to have your race instructions mailed to you, please contact the YRA office at (415) 771-9500 or [email protected] • Entries for a series, or individual regatta, must be received by 5 pm the Monday before the race or a $35 late fee will be applied. No entries will be accepted after 5 pm the Wednesday before a race. • A YRA sailing membership and a membership in a YRA member yacht club is required to register a boat for any YRA series. A YRA membership is required to race in any individual YRA Race, but one time racers do not need to belong to a member club. • The YRA Offers a discount on all race fees to US Sailing Members. YRA Racers are eligible for a discount on US Sailing Memberships through the Golden Anchor Program. US Sailing Memberships can be purchased online at http://www1.ussailing.org/membership/MPP/Default.aspx?ycid=101132Z. • Sailors entering the OYRA Season, or any individual OYRA Race, must submit a signed OYRA Boat/Crew Information and Statement of Compliance Sheet before each ocean Race. See http://www.yra.org/OYRA/ocean_safety.html for more information. Please note that to race in an OYRA Race a 406 EPIRB or 406 PLB is required. • Please fill out your entry form completely, sign, date and return it to the YRA office along with your payment. If you need additional assistance completing this form, please contact the YRA office. • You can save time and postage by signing up online! Visit www.yra.org for more information!

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 117 1070 1070 Marina Marina Vaillage Village Pkwy., Prky, SuiteSuite 202-G 202-G Yacht Racing Association of San Alameda,Alameda, CACA 94501 94501 Francisco Bay - 2012 Entry Form Phone:Phone: 415.771.9500 415.771.9500 Fax:Fax: 415.276.2378 415.276.2378 email: [email protected]

Name: Boat Name: Sail Number:

Street: Boat Model:

City,State,Zip: Manufacturer: Yr Built:

Evening Phone: Daytime Phone: Designer: Yr. Designed:

Email Address: U.S. Sailing #: YRA Member #:

Yacht Club Affiliation: Marina: Berth/Slip #:

Membership Fees: YRA Membership: Required for YRA Racing $45 $

NCPHRF Fees: Renewal of 2011 Certificate: $30 for YRA Members/$40 for NON-YRA Members $ New Certificate/Renewal of 2010 or prior Cert.: $45 for YRA Members/$55 for NON YRA Members $

Season Racing Fees: US Sailing Non US Sailing Fleet Members Members

YRA Party Circuit (Vallejo, 2nd Half Opener, Season Closer, Summer Sailstice) $150 $165 $ YRA Series + Party Circuit (HDA/ODCA, Includes Party Circuit) $180 $195 $ YRA Series only (HDA/ODCA, no Party Circuit) $150 $165 $ Offshore Yacht Racing Association (OYRA) Full Season * $195 $210 $ Wooden Boat Racing Association (WBRA) Season $150 $165 $

Single Race Fees: US Sailing Non US Sailing Fleet Members Members YRA Spring/Summer Series racers entering Lightship 1 * $5 $10 $ OYRA season racers entering Vallejo $5 $10 $ Vallejo Race Only $75 $80 $ 2nd Half Opener Only $75 $80 $ Season Closer Only $75 $80 $ All other YRA Races (write in race name): $50 $55 $

Late Fee: No entries are accepted after 5pm the Wednesday before the race Any entry Rec'd after 5pm the Mon before the race $35 $ * Participants in an ocean race or ocean series must submit a signed OYRA Boat/Crew Information and Statement of Compliace Sheet before each ocean Race. See http://www.yra.org/OYRA/ocean_safety.html TOTAL______

In consideration of being admitted to sailing membership in the Yacht Racing Association of San Francisco Bay (YRA), I agree to abide by "The Racing Rules of Sailing" and the Sailing Instructions of the YRA and the regatta sponsors. I warrant that I will maintain compliance with the YRA Minimum Equipment requirements. To the fullest extent permitted by law, I hereby waive any rights I may have to sue the YRA with respect to personal injury or property damage suffered by myself or my crew as a result of our participation in the YRA and hereby release the YRA and it's race organizers from any liability for such injury or damage.. I further warrant that I have not relied upon any of the above entities or individuals in preparing my yacht for racing.

Signed: ______Date: ______

Make check payable to YRA. To pay by MasterCard or Visa please provide card info below, including billing street address and zip code

Card Number:______Exp Date:______CVV #______Name on Card:______Card Holder's Signature:______Billing Address:______Office use only C.C. Check Number ______Amount PD______DATE Received in office______

Page 118 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 Unveiling the new Limited Edition print series of America's Cup Images by artist Jim DeWitt.

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 119 WORLD

With reports this month on Increased Buying Power in the Eurozone, A Carefree Cruise Through Croatia, and a BVI Charter Addict's Reasons for Returning Again and Again.

Trending Now: are several thousand miles of enticing More Bang for Your Bucks in Europe cruising grounds whose topographical You have to look pretty hard to find attractions range from the glacier-carved anything positive in the news these days. fiords of Norway and Sweden to the sun- But believe it or not, there's actually baked beaches of Greece and Turkey. some very good news in the financial It practically goes without saying that pages — at least if you're a potential trav- Western Europe's rich cultural history eler. Although most financial analysts is one of its most alluring attributes. agree that America's economic recovery From the ancient Mediterranean harbors is still only sputtering along, it looks where international commerce boomed absolutely gold-plated lately compared to long before Columbus set foot in the New that of Western Europe. So if you haven't World, to ruins found in Greece and Tur- even considered a European vacation for key that pre-date written history, Europe the past decade or so, it may be time to offers historical significance to travelers reassess. unmatched by any other sailing region. Suppose you'd squirreled away Because of this, it's an ideal place for $5,000 for a sailing vacation. In June a so-called surf-and-turf vacation. The of '07 or '08 that would have netted you idea is to dedicate part of your travel time 3,150 euros at a currency exchange. to land travel and part of it to exploring But today, you'd get 3,950 euros — an under sail. We highly recommend design- increase of about 25%! That's not to say ing such a combo-plate itinerary as a way that Western Europe has become dirt to introduce kids or neophyte charterers cheap, but this trend is certainly worth to the joys of vacationing under sail. But noting. Imagine your reaction, for exam- be sure to schedule the sailing portion ple, if you'd been itching for a European last, as it will almost certainly be the sailing getaway for years, and you were highlight. suddenly offered a 25% discount on all Deciding which European venue to goods and services. Enticing, no? charter in depends on your social style So let's take a look at the options. In and the activities you enjoy. For sun ALL PHOTOS ROD WITEL addition to the vast fleets of crewed char- worshipers, the southern latitudes of ter yachts available in European ports Greece and Turkey are a perennial fa- ing and nightlife. Farther north, you can — which include some of the most luxu- vorite, with the bonus that remnants of find bareboat bases in the British Isles rious sailing yachts in the world — there ancient history are everywhere. (Turkey and Scandinavia that give access to are hundreds of late-model bareboats does not yet use euros, by the way, but mazes of stunningly beautiful cruising based in the Mediterranean, Adriatic and it is very inexpensive.) grounds that would take years to thor- Baltic Seas. From Malta to Finland and In addition to the chic and sophis- oughly investigate. every waterside nation in between there ticated French Riviera in the south of If you can't find a boatload of friends Yachts and tour boats moor beneath the France, Brittany, on the Atlantic coast, is or family members to join you, be aware ancient battlements of Bodrum Castle, on a splendid sailing center with fascinating that Europe's biggest charter operators, Turkey's Turquoise Coast. cosmopolitan history. Sunsail, The Moorings and Kiriacoulis, There are at least three all offer pay-by-the-berth flotilla char- regions of Italy with charters, as do smaller companies such as ter bases, including Sic- the Greek specialist, Albatross. ily, which gives access to For most Americans, a vacation to the charming and timeless Europe is always a bit of a splurge, Lipari Islands, where old- but with the euro getting weaker, this world traditions are still summer would seem to be an ideal time strong. (Imagine a surf-and- to finally make your European sailing turf trip that included an art fantasies come true. We'd advise you tour of Florence and a week not to procrastinate in locking in a boat, of sailing in the Med.) though. The summer season will be here Both the French island before you know it. of Corsica and the Italian — latitude/andy island of Sardinia have charter bases, as do Spain's Sailing Through History in Balearics, all of which offer Culturally Rich Croatia a balance of semi-secluded I don’t have the sailing pedigree of anchorages and bustling many Latitude 38 readers, but I do love towns with world-class din- warm water chartering and wandering KIRIACOULIS YACHT CHARTERS KIRIACOULIS YACHT OF CHARTERING

famous beaches in Croatia (also on Brac). • The spectacular blue caves on the island of Bisevo (our westernmost port of call and a must-see). • The notorious party town of Hvar Town on the island of Hvar with its obligatory 87-meter climb to Fortress Spanjol, which overlooks the harbor. • The tourist Mecca of the fabled walled city of Korcula (home town of Marco Polo). • The island of Mljet, its National Park and salt water lakes. • And finally the great walled city of Dubrovnik, which no one should miss if they are ever to visit Croatia. Our daily routine usually consisted of breakfast on the boat before strolling the small farmers' markets and bakeries to gather fresh provisions. Mid-morning we’d cast off and motor or sail until early afternoon, when we’d find an idyllic cove where we would anchor for lunch and a swim in the warm, blue Adriatic Sea. If you are used to snorkeling the Caribbean or South Pacific coral reefs, you’ll be somewhat disappointed in the Every port along the coast seemed to be torn comfortable sleeping. Winds were light in Adriatic, as there’s not as much to see from the pages of a storybook. Left: Marco the morning and picked up to 10 to 12 underwater. Anchoring proved a bit dif- Polo's bust. Right: Rod strums a tune. knots in the afternoon. Much of Europe ficult as the sea bottom is a combina- the world. enjoyed a warmer and drier September tion of rocks and grass and our boat That was enough impetus to cross than usual. In fact, the only rain we saw had a Danforth anchor — not a good the pond and a few more seas to reach for 14 days was on our second morning. combination. We did have an all-chain Croatia with my sailing buddy Chuck It lasted for just over one hour. We were rode, however, which helped in the deep Dell’Ario last September for a one-way in shorts or bathing suits day and night. waters that surrounded all the islands charter from Split to Dubrovnik. It was charter heaven. Another day, another amazing destination. We chartered from a small local com- We departed from Split, a large, Chuck prepares to get underway at the coast pany called SunLife (www.sunlife.hr). We beautiful, ancient walled city, and zig- town of Milna on the isle of Brac. were pleased with their service as well as zagged our way south- the quality and price of our boat, a 2006 east through Croatia’s Elan 384 Impression monohull named famed Dalmatian ar- Navis. This being our first visit to the for- chipelago, exploring a mer Yugoslavia, we felt trepidation about different island every language, currency and navigation. All day. Some of the high- our worries were for naught as the staff lights were: of most businesses were multilingual. • The seductive city We fared better with kunas (the Croatian of Trogir protected by currency) than euros, and navigation its Kamerlengo Castle. was line-of-sight. We attempted to speak • The quaint town Croatian (albeit feebly), but even the of Milna on the isle of locals admit that their language is “very Brac (one of our fa- difficult and has too many letters.” We vorite stops, where we Americans are lucky that much of the bought some local olive world speaks English. oil, wine and grappa). Day temperatures hovered in the • Zlatni Rat (Golden mid-80’s, and the nights cooled for very Cape), one of the most ROD WITEL WORLD

ery day, lead nature hikes, and make a few fancy meals. There must be a catch, we thought. Oh yeah, you should probably like people. Hosting total strangers in a very intimate environment is never boring and usually at the end of the week, they leave as friends. After several years working in the crewed yacht industry running company-owned boats, plus a five-year stint running our own charter yacht, we keep getting drawn back to the islands, their people and the wonderfully ap- pealing Caribbean lifestyle. I still love sharing the BVI with first-timers and getting to re-live it through new eyes. When our neighbors from Bel Marin Keys In every photo they sent us, Rod and Chuck Still we fell in love with the country, its (who are veterans of the '08 Baja Ha- were smiling. From that we surmise that they people, its food — especially the delicious Ha) asked us to organize a bareboat had a splendid trip. gelato, which we ate way too much of — trip, we jumped at the chance to once we visited. and, of course, the sailing. But please again show off the islands to a group of After weighing anchor we would sail don’t tell anyone, as I want Croatia to “virgins.” Early last December, we rented to our evening's destination, where we be just as I left it when I return — right the Leopard 45 cat ‘ti Profligate from BVI would Med-moor (stern-to) at one of the after I work my way down my must-do Yacht Charters and revisited our favorite large ACI marinas. ACI has a chain of list that includes Bora Bora, Turkey, spots. marinas in the larger cities, with ultra- Italy, and others. Do you want a quiet cove to yourselves modern facilities, restaurants, sailing — rod witel or a hub of watersports activities and schools, pools and tennis courts. With nightlife? The close proximity of islands shore hookup for AC and water they were Working Vacation in the BVI and the variety of anchorages about $93 per night. In smaller, more in a Third World Nation provide something for everyone. quaint locations, we'd tie up to the city Feels like I’m living the lyrics of a One of my favorite BVI destinations dock, where there was no charge, but no Jimmy Buffett song: "Working vacation is Anegada, a low-lying coral-formed guarantee of AC or water. in a third world nation." Not that the island that contrasts with the rest of the More often than not, our stern would British Virgin Islands meet the classic archipelago's tall, volcano-formed isles. be only steps away from restaurants definition of Third World, but this lovely Because Anegada lies well away from the and/or castles. Unlike the BVI, there group of islands seems far removed from rest of the chain, the first-timers might was no rushing for mooring balls or slips, any semblance of so-called First World wonder if they were headed across the but we did hear that in July and August society. Blasting across open water aboard a smooth- some areas can be inundated with tour- I first fell in love with the BVI when sailing catamaran, powered by the warm Carib- ists and charterers. We also anchored Captain John and I rented a bareboat on bean trades — it doesn't get much better. out a few evenings for the sheer beauty our honeymoon of it. in 1994. On that Many times late in the evening we’d wonderful cruise hear groups of folk singers performing we discovered at pubs and restaurants, their beautiful the “nature's lit- four-part harmonies resonating through tle secrets” that the harbor. We felt privileged to be privy the BVI Tourism to such local charm. Board so often In summary, we traveled approxi- touts in their ad mately 300 nm, yet saw very few Ameri- campaigns. cans — except in Dubrovnik where the A couple years cruise ships congregated. We did see far later, we returned more monohulls than catamarans, with after stumbling the majority of the monohulls utilizing into this crazy in-mast furling mainsails. One of the job — running only negative things I have to report is charter yachts that Croatia, sadly, still allows the dump- — that actually ing of sewage anywhere. Holding tank paid us to sail on usage is not required or even encour- beautiful boats, aged. go snorkeling ev- LYNN RINGSEIS LYNN

Page 122 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 OF CHARTERING

Atlantic, as you can’t see this came smitten with the BVI and flat, coral and limestone island are already planning another when you first start heading trip. there. It's the longest island-to- After we returned the boat island sail in the territory, and and were walking around Vil- usually one of the nicest, as the lage Cay Marina on Tortola, easterly trade winds provide we bumped into Bob Carson, a lovely beam or close reach yacht broker and manager of from Virgin Gorda. Anegada several private crewed yachts, offers visitors miles of pristine, and he was in a bit of a dilem- uncrowded beaches, lobster ma as the crew he had hired to barbecues, fabulous snorkel- operate a brand new 45’ cata- ing, perhaps a flamingo sight- maran had just quit shortly ing, and a magic atmosphere before the first charter. with a laid-back vibe. Some We signed on immediate- people get it the minute they ly and climbed back in the land ashore, others may take saddle. After provisioning, we awhile to learn how to live by picked up our guests and had the rhythms of nature, unplugged from Is there a BVI sailing vacation in your future? the pleasure of showing off the BVI once the busy lifestyle they are used to. If so, Lynn recommends making the crossing again — and even got paid to do it! In addition to the well known “must- to laid-back, low-lying Anegada. — lynn ringseis see” destinations in the BVI, it's always of their favorite secrets in exchange for fun sharing our favorite secrets, such as some chilly beverages — you just might Thanks Lynn. We appreciate you do- lesser-known snorkel spots, the funkiest end up with some salty sea stories as a ing this tropical reconnaissance in order of beach bars, or rarely traveled hiking bonus. to bring our readers a BVI update. Tough trails. If you are first timers to the BVI, On our recent trip the islands worked duty! try to find locals willing to share a few their magic as always. Our neighbors be- — Ed.

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 125 CHANGES

With reports from Flashgirl in New Zealand on Commodore's upcoming 80th birthday party to be held in Sausalito; from Sea Level in Indonesia on the way to Thailand; from Curare in Valdivia, Chile, on a less-traveled route; from Pacific Breeze on four summer weeks in Greece; from Rascal in Southeast Asia; and an unusually large helping of Cruise Notes.

Flashgirl — Wylie 38+ cleared into Honiara on Guadalcanal, Commodore and Nancy Tompkins and then headed east to the remote Te- PNG, Micronesia, Vanuatu motu Province where we visited Utupua (Mill Valley) and Tikopia. Tikopia was a highlight for Just before the end of the year, we had us. A small island less than two miles a Wild Toad's ride from Vanuatu to Opua, long and half a mile wide, it has been New Zealand, inhabited by Polynesians since 1200 running before B.C. It is still ruled by four chiefs, called tropical cyclone arikis, and much of their culture is still Fina. Just be- intact. fore setting sail, After a few weeks we moved on to we took the time Vanuatu, where we spent three months.

NANCY / FLASHGIRL to reflect on the In mid-December we left Port Vila for things we did Opua, Bay of Islands, New Zealand on this past year. what was a thrilling 1,200-mile sail. We In addition to saw 25-30 knots under gray skies most holding loved of the time, and the apparent wind angle ones near and was 40 to 60 the whole way. Ugh! But It takes a real man to drive dear, we sailed we covered the 1,200 miles in just seven holding an umbrella. a distance of days, so Flashgirl rocked! 5,500 miles and visited 34 islands. We We are so glad to be tucked away in started the beginning of the year at port here at Opua, as the nasties that Thursday Island, which is north of Cape chased us most of the way — tropical York, the northeasternmost tip of Aus- cyclone Fina — finally made landfall tralia. We then sailed through the Gulf here, although only as a tropical depres- of Papua and the Coral Sea. We spent sion. After all the hot and muggy days the month of January cruising PNG, in the tropics, we're enjoying the cooler then headed north across the equator weather. to Micronesia, stopping at the remote — nancy and commodore 01/01/12 atolls of Kapingamarangi and Nukuoro enroute to Pohnpei. Readers — We'd like to remind ev- We moored Flashgirl in Pohnpei for eryone that Commodore, who has been six months, and Nancy flew home to visit sailing across oceans for 79 years, will be of 135 million, making it not only the her family and take care of business. She celebrating his 80th birthday on February world's most populated island, but one returned to the boat in mid-June, and we 26 at the Presidio YC at Fort Baker (Marin of the world's most densely populated enjoyed Micronesia for about six weeks Headlands). The celebration is from noon regions. Sixty percent of Indonesians live before heading south across the equator, until 4 pm, and all his friends, as well on Java, and much of Indonesian history which was Nancy’s fourth crossing. Our those who love sailing, are invited. has taken place here. For example, it was next stop was the Solomon Islands. We the center of powerful Hindu-Buddhist Commodore's favorite Vanuatu string band, all Sea Level — Schionning 49 empires and Islamic sultanates, the core dressed up as Santas to get into the spirit of Jim and Kent Milski of the colonial Dutch East Indies, and Christmas in the South Pacific. Indonesia to Singapore was at the center of Indonesia's cam- (Lake City, Colorado) paign for independence. Java dominates As the night faded into day, we Indonesian social, political and economic counted five volcanoes in the life. distance off to starboard. I won- The preferred route for cruisers head- dered how many places in the ing west is the north shore of Java, as it's world it would be possible to do the shortest route to Singapore and the NANCY/FLASHIGIRL that. And it brought to mind the sailing paradises of Langkawi, Malaysia, Johnny Cash song titled Ring of and Phuket, Thailand. But except for the Fire. It burns, burns, burns, the adverse current at this time of year, the ring of fire. south coast of Java is itself a cruisers' My wife Kent and I have been paradise. Parts of the southeast coast cruising the southern coast of are amazingly pristine, with plenty of Java, a 550- by 100-mile wide protected anchorages and undiscovered island with the Java Sea to the surf spots. And we've found the people north and the Indian Ocean to the south. Java has a population IN LATITUDES

Down Under. We sailed as far south as Tasmania, then back up the length of the east coast of Australia. By the way, the length of the east coast of Oz is about 3,000 miles! The island of Tasmania was our favorite part of Australia. Cruisers headed to

Australia need to be FROM TAS TAS

PHOTOS COURTESY OF INDO PHOTOBANK PHOTOS COURTESY aware that Oz is much more expensive than the United States! That's why so many Aussies have been flying to Cali- fornia to buy boats. And why so many Aussies cruise Indonesia, Ma- laysia and Thailand, which are all extremely Cradle Mountain, Tasmania, Oz. inexpensive by compari- son. Australia's Gold Coast has the best yacht services, however. In May we made the crossing, with Northern California friend Chuck Hooper as crew, from Oz to the Louisiade Arichi- pelago of southeast Papua New Guinea. During this time we buddy-boated with our dear — and newly married — friends Steve and Manjula May of the Gualala- based Farrier 41 cat Endless Summer. What we all remember about the Loui- siades is the outstanding fishing and diving. Our most memorable sight in the Louisiades was that of the local proas under sail. The people of the Louisiades archipelago are true watermen. Their Java is an island of big contrasts. Spread; One of the many great waves along the often pristine south rough-hewn sailing canoes have a main coast. Inset above; With 20 volcanoes being active in recent years, Java is Volcano Central. Inset hull and one outrigger, the latter always left; Thanks to severe overpopulation, the Citarum River is almost a solid mass of plastic bottles. being kept to weather. They fly a hybrid to be extremely gregarious and help- Indonesian island — to visit the offshore of a lateen and lug sail, and the canoes ful — although this has been the case Mentawai Islands, which are famous for are very fast and extremely weatherly. In almost most everywhere we've been. The great surf. Then in mid-January we will order to tack, the single sail is reversed, Javanese are also very curious about cross the Andaman Sea to Langkawai, Something about this 3-ft clam looks familiar. our catamaran. Malaysia. The Seventh Day Adventists of PNG don't eat The Indonesian Coast Guard helped We were traveling alone at this shellfish, leaving plenty for cruisers. us resupply with fuel at our last stop. time because of our This is noteworthy, because while get- route and because ting fuel for yachts isn't a problem along we were running a

the cruiser 'milk run' on the north coast little late compared SEAL LEVEL of Indonesia, including Bali, it's a dif- to most cruisers for ferent story on the less-traveled south a trip from Indone-

coast. The problem is that Indonesian sia to Singapore and filling stations aren't allowed to sell fuel Malaysia. But we cer- in jugs to just anyone. You need to be tainly enjoy buddy- a fisherman with a permit. We hadn't boating when given planned to use as much fuel as we did, the opportunity, as but at this time of year the wind and we think it's much current are against westbound boats. safer and more fun. Our plan is to make our way up the To turn back the west side of Sumatra — the other big clock for a moment, we spent most of the last winter cruising CHANGES

and the helmsman moves from bow to stern. Sail is shortened by rolling it on the. boom.. But most of the time ballast, we encountered were equally curious in the form of people or cargo, is moved about each other's lifestyles. Other than from the main hull out on a platform our traveling companions, we didn't see which attaches another cruiser until the island of Am- the ama. bon, three months after leaving Austra- On several lia! occasions when Endless Summer then headed up to the villagers saw Palau from the Hermit Islands, while us coming, they we and Elena continued on toward Bali. jumped into their Our route over the Bird's Head Penin- canoes to come sula took us through Raja Ampat, more out and sail with specifically to the island of Kri. There us. Their sails are we met Max Ammer (papua-diving.com), made of anything who runs a dive resort and is a wealth they can get their of information on the whole area. hands on — usu- Of Dutch descent, Max came to the ally plastic tarps. area 40 years ago to dive on WWII wreck- Fuel here is very age. But he fell in love with the place and PNG proas are crude, expensive in the never left. Max puts a lot of effort into not fast, and weatherly. Louisiades, so the only protecting the area, but training the tradition of sail locals how to deal with us outsiders. We lives on from necessity. But it's a won- spent a week at his resort diving on what derful thing to see. some experts claim is the best diversity It was in the Louisiades that we met of coral on the planet. up with fellow cruisers Adam and Leonie, We and Elena spent the following and their two young boys, on the Dutch month meandering down through Indo- monohull Elena. We'd crossed the Pacific nesia, where we eventually made it to with them, but hadn't seen them since Bali. Leaving our boat on a mooring, we New Zealand the previous year. Our returned to the States for two months to arranged meeting took place in Buka, visit family and friends. which is on the northern end of Bougain- As anybody who has been to Indone- ville Island. There is still plenty of politi- sia can attest, the bureaucracy can be a cal turmoil on the island, so we heard nightmare. To get a CAIT — the cruising gunshots during the night. It reminded permit — and all other such paperwork us of when we lived aboard in Vallejo. services, we highly recommend Ruth and Other than trying to kill each other, the Nathan of islemarine.com in Serangan people were extremely friendly. We only Harbor at the Bali YC. These are truly hope they can resolve their differences two of the most helpful and professional easy. Alcohol is very expensive — when without further bloodshed. people we have had the good fortune to you can find it. To our knowledge good Our three boats — Elena, Endless work with. wine can't be found in Indonesia. Beer Summer and Sea Level — then started Back to the present. So much for is easier to come by than spirits, but it's our journey north and west to the outly- best-laid plans. The winds that were not as cheap as in Mexico. Resupplying ing islands across the top of New Guinea supposed to be light and help us move with fuel is much more difficult, and the and Irian Jaya. This route is not much to the west along the south coast of Su- bureaucratic paperwork is over the top! traveled by yachts, so we and the natives matra were replaced by the northwest Just as in the bad old days of Mexico, If you're going to reprovision in Indonesia, Bali monsoon. We ultimately had to tuck you're expected to check in at every port is one of the better and easier places to do it. our tail between our legs and head for of call. But English is not widely spoken. Singapore. We passed right by Krakatau Anchoring is more difficult because volcano, which is famous for most anchorages have more coral and exploding in 1883 with a force less sand on the bottom. The Indonesian equivalent to 10,000 times that surf is some of the best in the world,

SEA LEVEL of the atomic bomb dropped but most of it breaks onto coral, so it's on Hiroshima! At least that's a bit risky for an old longboarder such what the guide book says. At as myself. The diving is so fantastic, the moment, we're enjoying a however, that it alone would justify a nice spinnaker run up through visit. The locals are all very friendly, but the Sunda Strait between Java learn some Indonesian before you arrive and Sumatra. We should be in because English speakers are rare. Singapore before long. Indonesia has 17,000 islands, and The cost of cruising most have natural wonders or interest- Indonesia has been similar to ing ruins. A cruiser could easily spend the cost of cruising in Mexico, but provisioning is not as IN LATITUDES

So we covered the nearly 1,000 miles in seven days, most of it under spinnaker. Curare even turned in her best 24-hour run — 180 miles. The five boats arrived at the Galapagos within 20 hours of each other, and all of us agreed it had been the sail of a lifetime.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY CURARE ALL PHOTOS COURTESY After a week at anchor off Santa Cristobal, and ob- serving as many of CURARE Darwin's creatures as we could, we set off for Easter Island, 2,200 miles to the SSE. We again had reasonable weather on this passage, making the trip in 19 days. Although there is no secure Jessie and Geoff at anchorage at Easter Easter Island. Island, we did manage to get our dog Jessie ashore for some much needed exercise. We made a quick trip around the mys- terious island before the winds started building in the Hanga Roa anchorage. But we were too late to leave, so we ended up riding out a three-day blow with winds to 25 knots and seas in the 15-ft range. The experience was all the more thrilling because a singlehander with a partially disabled boat managed to anchor, with the assistance of the Armada, upwind of us. Later that morning one of her anchor rodes parted. Fortunately, two cruisers came to her assistance and managed to secure her with a second line 'Curare', the Goodalls' Bowman 36, on the hard in Valdivia, Chile. Unusually, the couple — seen and anchor. at Loreto Fest in the upper left inset — didn't continue across the Pacific after Easter Island, but After provisioning with fresh produce headed to South America. Lower left inset; One of the spectacular sunsets in western Panama. at Hanga Roa, we departed for the 2300- numerous seasons in Indonesia, and seems possible, and every imaginable mile trip southeast to Valdivia, Chile. We explore a different island every season. boat repair can be accomplished. Within had some contrary winds, a gale and Services for yachts are few and far be- a week we had our liferaft inspected, the periods of calm, so we averaged only tween, however. We feel blessed to be radar/chartplotter repaired, and parts 100 miles a day. We tried to avoid get- able to tour such a fascinating country. and batteries flown in from Miami, and Geoff and Linda had a good trip from the Gala- Nonetheless, West Coast cruisers might got new charts for heading farther south. pagos to Easter Island, but nothing like the be interested to know that our favorite The best entertainment, of course, was idyllic one from Panama to the Galapagos. cruising areas are still Mexico and Brit- watching all of the cruisers ish Columbia. We look forward to crusing preparing for or finishing off both of them again sometime. their Canal transits, with all — jim and kent 01/06/12 the tires hanging from every stanchion. Curare — Bowman 36 The highlight of last Geoff and Linda Goodall year's cruising was our Cruising to Southern Chile 950-mile sail southwest (Vancouver, B.C.) from Panama's Las Perlas We started 2011 by crossing the Gulf islands to the Galapagos. of Panama on New Year's Eve, and spent We kept in radio contact a few days in Las Perlas islands before with five other boats, and all moving on to Panama City. What a dy- of us experienced the idyllic namic and entertaining place! Anything conditions of broad reaching in 15 to 20 knots of wind. We even had favorable current. CHANGES

ting below 40 degrees latitude, but had to duck one weather system that took us to 42 degrees south. in Patagonia, but will have more to report Valdivia, a lovely city nine miles in- in two months. Right now the Valdivia land with a population of 150,000, has YC, the largest in Chile, is getting ready been a comfortable place for us and our to host the World Cup for Pirat (sic) class boat, something the Spaniards figured 5 Metre boats. Over 70 entries and 300 out back in 1550 sailors from all over the world are ex- when they made it pected. It looks like it's going to be fun. their Pacific Coast — geoff 01/05/12 hideout. We enjoy trips into town, Pacific Breeze — Spronk 78 Cat where we can get Guido Polko and Stefanie Ender a four-course meal Four Weeks Cruising Greece with a glass of fine (Sausalito) Chilean wine for I arrived in the Greek industrial city just $4, and salmon of Thessaloniki on August 22 to meet for $2.75 a pound. my friends Captain Paul, from Germany, With the fresh pro- and Dada, his Bosnian wife, aboard their Valdivia YC docks. duce from nearby, Spronk 78 catamaran. The plan was that provisioning is excellent. I would join the former Heidelberg res- We arrived at the Valdivia YC in May, taurateurs to diplomats for two weeks of returned to Canada for some time, cruising in the Greek Isles, at which time and are now at Marina Estancila near we'd be joined by my girlfriend Stefanie Valdivia, where I've been working on in Athens for an additional two weeks of maintenance tasks for the past several sailing pleasure. weeks. As it's the austral spring head- Scores of Spronk catamarans had ing toward summer, we're in no hurry been built in the Caribbean over the to move on. The weather has been great last 30 years, the publisher of Latitude and is expected to get even better, and informed me, and they all had a curious there is so much coast to explore. feature the designer had insisted on — During our time in South America, we heads that consisted of a toilet seat atop took the opportunity to do some inland an open hole into the ocean! Needless to travel. We visited the 12,000-ft-high al- say, Pacific Breeze, which had just come tiplano of landlocked Bolivia, where the out of a $1.5 million refit, and which ca- air is thin, crisp and clear. The salt flats ters to $60,000/week charter clientele, at Uyuni are the largest in the world, and has a more sophisticaed waste disposal home to large flocks of pink flamingos. system. Lake Titicaca, at the border of Bolivia After a wonderful welcome that in- can enjoy a good night's sleep even if the and Peru, is the largest high-altitude — cluded fine wine, a delicious dinner and wind shifts. German tradition dictates 12,500 feet — lake in the world. It's the wonderful conversation, the three of us that after anchoring, everyone partakes birthplace of the Aymara Indians, who departed the next afternoon for the Spo- in an Anlegerbier — which literally trans- were overtaken by the Inca. Transporta- rades. Located in the northwest Aegean lates as 'pier-beer'. It's an excuse for the tion throughout the region was easy by about 150 miles south of Thessaloniki first beer of the day or night. We didn't car, plane, bus — and even boat. and about 120 miles north of Athens as break with tradition during our time in We can't really comment on cruising the crow flies, the Sporades are among Greece, and enjoyed many a delicious For a change of pace, the Goodalls visited the most beautiful — and green — Greek Mythos beer. Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world and Islands. They also feature many great We awoke to a typically beautiful Au- Tristan Jones' old stomping grounds. Brrrr. places to anchor and explore. We en- gust day: 87 degrees with lots of sun and joyed a lovely evening sail, blue skies — and a 20-knot meltemi. The although we had to keep our meltemi is the dry north wind of the Ae- eyes out for fishing vessels, gean Sea that is caused by a combination as Greek fishermen either of high pressure over the Balkans and don't know or don't care low pressure over Turkey. Meltemis can TITICACA TOMM about showing the proper be dangerous for sailors because they lights. We even saw some come up in clear weather, sometimes boats with pink and blue without warning, and because they can running lights. blow up to 40 knots. But this meltemi At midnight we arrived stayed around 20 knots, so with the big at Nea Moudania, where chute up, the long, lean cat effortlessly Paul set double anchors. covered the 90 miles down to Skiathos Perhaps because he's Ger- town. We were often visited by leaping man, Paul always sets two dolpins, which made the passage all the anchors, and sometimes a stern anchor. That way he IN LATITUDES

but to cut the anchor free of the chain. We were able to get the anchor and the anchor end of the chain up onto the boat, at which time I used a power grinder to cut the chain off at the anchor. You should have seen COURTESY PACIFIC BREEZE PACIFIC COURTESY the sparks fly! We had to leave 330 feet of high-quality German chain on the bottom, but Theo promised he'd get it up later and contact us. He was true to his word, so after stops at a few other places, we returned to Skiathos to pick up the chain. Theo's bill of $500 Better on the boat than on the bottom. wasn't cheap, but it was less expensive than having to buy replacement chain. Free once again, we took off toward Skopelos in 30 knots of wind and swells to 15 feet. These were the kind of conditions that Pacific Breeze loves, and we hit speeds of up to 18 knots. It was a far cry from what our Ericson 27 back in Sausalito would have done in the same conditions. (By the end of our trip, Stefanie and I would go over to the dark side of sailing. Our next boat, especially for cruising, will be a catamaran.) Boats in Skopelos moor Med style, which means you put your stern into the wind by setting the anchor, then backing up to the quay. I expected that the strong Having designed, built and raced catamarans in mostly the Caribbean for more than 40 years, Peter winds would make it difficult for the 78- Spronk had a huge influence. 'Pacific Breeze', like most of his designs, had very narrow hulls and by 35-foot cat, but Pacific Breeze didn't surprisingly low freeboard. Unlike most Spronks, 'Pacific Breeze' has modern marine heads. have any 'prop walk' to complicate the more enjoyable. ers where music is allowed to blast like matter. We enjoyed a lovely day in town Despite the huge size of the cat, Paul that until dawn. and a nice dinner at a local's place in the and I basically did all the sailing. The After such a dreadful night, we wanted old town. genoas are on electric furlers controlled to leave at first light. Alas, we couldn't get After enjoying some other spots, we from the cockpit, and even the dagger- our primary anchor — a huge aluminum needed to get to Athens quickly in order boards can be raised or lowered from the Fortress fluke model — off the bottom. Guido and Stefanie in Greece last summer. He cockpit. The only hard part is having to We tried everything to bring her up, but got the better deal, as he spent a month, not let one running backstay off and put the to no avail. Not wanting to spend another just two weeks, aboard 'Pacific Breeze'. other one on when gybing or tacking. We God-awful night at Skiathos flew an asymmetrical chute on a roller town, not wanting to lose the furler without using a pole. primary anchor, and not be- When we arrived in the late afternoon, ing able to reach the anchor Skiathos town appeared to be a pleasant, by free-diving, Paul tracked sleepy little place. The terror started at down a diver. BREEZE PACIFIC 11 p.m., as that's when the loud — and Theo, like all the Greeks I mean really loud! — music erupted at we met, was friendly and a couple of the clubs. The music was so helpful. And he immediately loud that earplugs offered no relief. We found the problem. Our an- were honestly audio-tortured until the chor chain, not our anchor, music stopped at 5 a.m. Our advice is to was trapped beneath a huge never spend a night on a boat anywhere old anchor, and there was no near Skiathos town — or any of the oth- way we could get it back up without additional help. Paul decided that we had no choice CHANGES

to pick up Stefanie, who was flying in from Sausalito. We decided we'd take the 120-mile channel between the Greek have drowned doing the same thing. mainland and the big island of Evia. The bridge is only open for about Boats headed north into meltemis often one hour at about midnight, and this is use this channel rather than the open something of an event. Because we were Aegean, as it's more sheltered. But even on such a big cat, people assumed that if you were head- we were VIPs, so we were the focus of ed south, as we much attention and waving. It happened were, the scenery many other places, too. in the channel is The next day we picked up Stefanie more beautiful. and brought her to the boat at somewhat You can always quiet Porto Rafti. She'll take up the story count on the wind of the last two weeks of our adventure in blowing out of the the next edition of Latitude. north in the sum- — guido 10/15/11 mer. Well, almost always, as we had Rascal — Hallberg-Rassy 53 wind out of the Henry Mellegers, Glenys Henry southwest, mean- Malaysia's Raja Muda Regatta ing on the nose. (Oakland) We had a nice What's the best way for cruising Big sloop-rigged boats sail, but we had yachts to make part of the passage mean towering masts. to Med-moor for north up the Malacca Strait in mid- the night at the little town of Atalani, November to begin the cruising season in where there were nothing but small northwestern Peninsular Malayasia and restaurants for locals. We enjoyed our Thailand? We nominate the Raja Muda dinner, but were surprised by the cost Regatta, which is organized by the Royal of the fish. They charge by the kilo in Selangor YC of Malaysia, and takes the Greece, and it's always in the range of fleet from Port Klang (Kuala Lumpur) up 60 to 80 euros, which means it was $30 to the big cruising center of Langkawi via to $50 a pound! the islands of Pangkor and Penang. The most interesting feature of the Our nomination is based on the ex- channel is the 'sliding bridge' at Chalcis perience we recently had crewing aboard at the southern end. The sliding bridge Gavin and Carol Welman's Langkawi- — similar to the one in Barcelona — re- based Rascal for a 10-day, 300-mile sail. tracts the roadway from over the narrows It included six races, three of them pas- and allows boats to pass. The current is sage races of 90, 60 and 55 miles, and The first race was an overnighter to very strong in the narrows and is said three 25-mile day races held in Penang the funky seaside town of Pangkor. After to reverse itself every six hours. Legend and Langkawi harbors. some nice sailing, the wind died. Boats has it that philosopher Aristotle be- And guess what? We won our class, are allowed to use their engines in the came so frustrated with his inability to taking every race except for the one we'd Raja Muda, but pay a steep penalty for understand the currents that he threw gotten mixed up with a lay day. Our crew doing so. Our skipper elected to gut it himself off one of the ancient bridges in consisted of Gavin the skipper, Carol the out. It was a smart decision, as the wind frustration. If the story is true, he's lucky Admiral, an old British Navy guy named returned and we kicked butt. to have survived, because many others Tony, and the two of us. The average age We loved Pangkor. Although it's the One unfortunate thing about Greece is that the of our crew was 63, and we had more center of the sardine fishing industry, fish are as small as the price for them is high. than 180 years and 250,000 miles of it nonetheless has a pretty anchorage A side of veggies would be nice, too. sailing experience. There's something to flanked by wooded hills. After a delicious be said for us old farts with lunch, we took a walk through the fish- grey hair! ing boat harbor. There we saw women We met Rascal at the sitting cross-legged, sorting the millions Royal Selangor YC in Port of sardines by hand — and one cat who Klang after a long and convo- had his choice of more sardines than PACIFIC BREEZE PACIFIC luted trip from our Cal 3-46 he could eat in a lifetime. After they are Dream Catcher in Singapore. air-dried, sardines are called ikan bilis, We had a lot of fun in Port and are a key ingredient in many Malay Klang — the regatta organiz- dishes. Anyway, the party and prize- ers see to that at every stop giving were great, and a bit of rain made — but were disturbed by the life less dangerous for the fire eaters. staggering amount of plastic The second day was the second pas- and other garbage that flows sage race, this one to the 60-mile-distant down the river. There were island of Penang. After a delay due to islands of it, and it was not attractive. IN LATITUDES

start, but at the wrong time. Fortunately, the headstay on the boat of our main competition failed, leaving us still in the hunt for regatta honors. We kicked butt in the final race to win our class. By this time we were wearing, but it didn't stop us from partying at the Royal Langkawi YC for the final prize- giving shindig. PHOTOS COURTESY DREAM CATCHER PHOTOS COURTESY We had a leisure- ly breakfast after the regatta, then took the boat back to her homeport at Tela- ga Harbour, which Gavin claims is the prettiest marina in the world. Winning our class was a substantial thrill. As Henry and Multicultural Malay- I have now done five sia has a different Phang Na regattas in look than Mexico. Thailand, one King's Cup also in Thai- land, and one Raja Muda in Malaysia, we're now thinking of entering our Cal 46 Dream Catcher in the Raja Muda next year. Anyone want to crew? By the way, my overview of cruising in Southeast Asia, which was slated for this issue of Latitude, will appear in the March issue. If cruising an inexpensive area with many rich cultures appeals to you, be sure to check it out. — glenys 12/19/11

Scenes from a Raja Muda Regatta in Malaysia, starting from top right. Henry and Glenys of the Cruise Notes: Oakland YC-based Cal 3-46 'Dream Catcher'. Raja Muda conditions vary from light to heavy. Henry Having read Guido Polko's Changes luxuriating aboard 'Rascal'. Malaysian women sorting sardines. Temple House of the Khoo Clan. this month about fish costing $60 to light winds, we sailed hard through postponed, Admiral Carol, a black belt $100 a pound in restaurants during the night until 3 a.m., and once again foodie, got out the smoked salmon, his cruise in Greece last summer, we took our class. Trying to find the flash- wine and cheeses, and made an elegant couldn't help comparing it with the cost ing lights of the finish line against the lunch with a fabulous salad. We had of food in the La Cruz - Punta Mita area brightly illuminated city of Penang was some spinnaker misadventures when of Mexico. Yesterday a friend bought a a challenge, as was motoring two hours the race finally started, and with the fresh snapper to feed four from the pes- upriver past countless hazards to reach wind gusting to 27 knots, it was good Fish is a little more expensive at the market at the new Straits Quay Marina. we got it down and kept it down. During the La Cruz Marina than direct from the pesca- I had last visited Penang in the early the more anxious hours in the middle dors in Punta Mita, but it's still a bargain. '70s, and my goodness was I shocked of the night, Carol, who was at the changes! It now has a population standing in the cockpit, was of 1.5 million and countless high-rise struck by a fish! After a condos and office buildings, all against a rip-roaring sail, we crossed backdrop of big hills. Penang is a melting the Langkawi finish line at pot of Chinese, Indians and Malays, so it 11 p.m,, victorious again. presents a diverse architectural face of It was late, but not too late LATITUDE/RICHARD Burmese temples, decrepit shop-houses, for some French champagne grand colonial homes, and flashy condos. and a late dinner onboard. The venue for the second race prize- While setting off for town giving was the amazingly ornate Chinese the next day for lunch, temple that is the clan house for the someone asked why we Khoo Clan. weren't headed to the start- When the start of the next race was ing line. Somehow we got confused about the lay day! We managed to get a great CHANGES

cadors at Punta Mita. It cost $2, or 50 cents a serving. We just got back from Sayulita, where we enjoyed a large break- On too tight a budget to splurge so fast mole taco and a chicharrón taco extravagantly on dining out? Or want from a taco cart run by a couple of sweet to make sure you get plenty of veggies older mujeres. The total came to $1.50, in your diet? We recently swung by a including all the garnishes and secret local bodega — they're on every other sauces. On Wednesdays and Fridays corner — and picked up two tomatoes, you can get mouth-watering shrimp, a big avocado, two zucchini, and two octopus. marlin, cucumbers for less than $1.70. As we and fish tosta- recall, that's just a tad less than it all das for about would have cost at a Whole Foods in the $1.20 each, plus States. If we'd picked up half a cabbage ice cold Coronas for less than 50 cents, we could have for about $1.20 made a big salad or, after adding lentils, each, at the Ma- a killer soup. Booze and food in fancy rina Riviera Na- tourist restaurants naturally shatter a yarit YC in La cruiser's budget, but the less expensive Cruz. The set- places usually seem to be more fun and ting beneath the often have better tasting food. Thirsty? gigantic palapa Corona and other beers sell for less than is spectacular, $1 a bottle when bought by the case and with wonder- even in some restaurants. ful views of the Thirty-one boats from 12 countries marina, the bay — including eight from the United De Mallorca loves the 50- and the jungle- States — departed St. Lucia on January peso tortilla soup — and covered hills. At 8 on the 15-month, 26,000-mile World view — at the yacht club. the Red Chair ARC Circumnavigation, hosted by Tacos or Tacos on the Street, also in World Cruising Ltd. Eight other boats, La Cruz, you can get tacos with all the five of them in Panama, are expected trimmings — plus have a great chat fest to join the fleet for at least part of the with other cruisers — for about $1 a taco. adventure. Ted Bainbridge and Bernard Three bucks and you're stuffed. And O'Hanlon's Australia-based Beneteau there's no corkage fee when you bring Oceanis 393 Glamorous Galah is the your own wine — which you'll want to do. smallest boat in the fleet, while Sap- The special breakfast at Octopus' Gar- pire II, John O'Connor's U.S.-based den in La Cruz that includes coffee, or- Discovery 67, is the largest. The fleet ange juice, eggs, bacon, sausage, beans includes five catamarans, three of which and bread is less than $6, and you get to started in St. Lucia, the smallest being — health insurance?! Mai oui! Appar- enjoy it in a garden setting reminiscent Steve Spracher's U.S.-based Lagoon ently it's an old legal requirement they've of Mallorca. And on Saturday mornings, 380 Southern Cross; the largest is Phil dusted off to promote tourism — just you get terrific live music, too. Many May's France-based Catana 52 Fantasia. kidding — and are starting to enforce. other places offer breakfast specials for The event is a combination of organized Admittedly, it's understandable that a under $3. Other favorites are the fabu- stages and 'free cruising'. Entry fee for lightly-populated tourist area doesn't lous Como No?, and Casa de Pinter in the entire event, which includes Canal necessarily want to pick up big medical Punta Mita. The list of wonderful places fees and Galapagos permits, runs from bills for visitors. If you can't prove you to eat inexpensively goes on and on. Just $18 to $19.5k. If anyone would like to have health insurance, you're subject to ask any cruiser. join the event in progress, they can do being forced to leave or denied entry to Jeff Heald and Abdon Legrand, who owned a so in Australia for between $10.5 and French Polynesia. But we haven't heard home decor and gift shop in Sacramento for 20 $11.25k. In recognition of the ongoing of anyone who has gotten the boot so far. years, now run the very popular Como No? troubles in the Arabian Sea, the fleet will A santé! go around South Africa's Although we're not endorsing it, one Cape of Good Hope and up of the better health insurance options the South Atlantic to Rio might be to get coverage from Divers for Carnival and to the St. Alert Network (DAN), a highly-regarded Lucia finish rather than via non-profit organization established long BALTIC YACHTS BALTIC the Red Sea, the Med and ago to provide limited-duration health the North Atlantic. and medevac insurance for divers travel- Government mischief all ling to the far reaches of the globe. Rates over the cruising world? You are said to be reasonable. bet. Let's start in French And down in San Diego, there's been Polynesia, where authori- a big hubbub about Mexico supposedly ties are beginning to make now requiring visitors by sea, and even spot checks to make sure all arriving cruisers have IN LATITUDES

$1,260 a month we would have had to pay in tax to a less punitive country. No, the ones who are going to get hurt are the

VISIT ITALY NOW VISIT ITALY Italians who are no longer going to have jobs in the boat-

yards, chandleries, LEONARDO waterfront bars and restaurants, and travel industries. Which means the Italian treasury takes a hit, too. In years past, Dockwise Yacht Transport has been Less boats means a popular — albeit less euros for Italy. pricey — way for cruisers to get their boats from Mexico to British Columbia in the late spring. Dockwise is no longer offering that service. Be advised that in any event, yacht shipping schedules are not something that can be guaranteed. We had hoped to put our Olson 30 La Gamelle aboard a Yacht Path ship from Port Everglades to the U.S. Virgins in mid-January. Alas, it turns out that Yacht Path won't have a ship to the Vir- gins until at least March, which screws up our plans and is going to cost us some bucks. Had we known, we could have just as easily gotten La Gamelle on their December ship. We nonetheless appreciate the problems shipping companies have with loads and schedules, and just want potential customers to be forewarned. Like all great adventures, the La Sure, the east coast of Italy has its spectacular May 1 — just before the beginning of Gamelle one is having all kinds of un- spots. But as they say, 'there are lots of fish in the high season— all yachts in Italy will expected twists. It's now very likely that the sea', particularly when it's the Med Sea. be subject to a new daily tax. It comes the boat will be shipped to Martinique those coming within 24 miles of shore, to $312/month for 37- to 42-footers, on Dockwise, after which we'll single- to obtain visas in advance. There's a $390 a month for 43 to 53-footers, and hand her to St. Barth via Dominica, the lot of confusion about the new law, and over $1,260 a month for 58-footers. It's Saints, Guadaloupe and Antigua. That's it's beginning to look as though it's only unclear if Italian legislators realize that 220 miles of close- to beam-reaching in intended for folks on the commercial boats, particularly foreign boats, can the Caribbean trades, which might be a fishing boats. As Bob Hoyt of Mag Bay simply throw off their docklines and leave whole lot better than 120 miles of beating Outfitters toldLatitude , the visa fees are Italy and Italian taxes in their wake. After into the trades from St. Thomas to St. not unreasonable, as U.S. fishermen all, as wonderful — and expensive — as Barth. It could be fun. cross into Mexican waters to take lots of places such as Portofino, Capri and 'La Gamelle', in the slings and in limbo in Port fish. Only time will tell how this all plays Sardinia are, it's only a short distance Everglades, Florida. Her ship didn't come in, so out for cruisers. to the wonderful cruising attractions in her next stop may be . . . Martinique? Then there's Italy. Having pissed France, Spain, Croatia, Greece, away their treasury and gone into un- Malta and Tunisia, where either sustainable deep debt — sort of like the there aren't any such taxes/ Golden State — the Italian government fees, and/or they aren't any- has come up with an 'austerity measure' where near as high as Italy's. that is more accurately a big new tax on And, we might add, where there Italian and foreign yachts. A tax we aren't any chickenshit captains suspect is going to drive the beautiful fleeing cruise ships after holing LEANDREO NAPOLEANO but beleaguered country even further them on reefs. into the fiscal hole. According the Brit- Who would get hurt, for ex- ish Cruising Association, starting on ample, if Profligate was in Italy on May 1? Not us, because we'd take our catamaran and the CHANGES

By the way, a special Latitude thanks to Seattle-based Gerald Dudley of Dud- ANGEL LOUISE Tuvalu," reports Jim Coggin of the Rich- ley Yacht Transport, who really came mond-based Schumacher 40 Auspice. through for us in a pinch after another "Three key factors made it a highly en- trucking company failed to honor their joyable experience for me. First, having a commitments and at the last minute well-found, high-performance boat. Even tried to jack the price by 33%. Two days utilizing a conservative sail plan — i.e. later they were calling back begging for “reef early and reef often" — she rarely the business. Gerald, by the way, told sailed at less than six knots no matter us he's getting his 70-ft sled, the old the point of sail. As measured by noon- TransPac-winning Drumbeat, ready for to-noon positions, with the wind forward a South Pacific cruise. He'll have some of the beam the entire trip, Auspice aver- karma going with him. aged just over seven knots. The second A group of North American cruisers factor is being well rested. I'm not the enjoying New Year's fireworks over Lon- kind of guy who enjoys a passage trying don's Big Ben? It sounds crazy, but it's to get by on 20-minute snippets of sleep, true. and don't think I'd make good decisions "Latitude has fueled our cruising if I were sleep deprived if the shit hit the dreams from way back when we lived in An unusual cruising view: Big Ben at precisely fan. So I rely heavily on AIS, radar, the Des Moines, and the publisher's com- midnight Greenwich Mean Time, as the new radar detector, the radar reflector, and mentary on all things has guided us well year moved into the western latitudes. VHF to be additional eyes and ears. I try over the years," report Ed and Sue Kelly We're loving our great 'after retirement to sleep solidly during the day so I can be of the Catalac 36 cat Angel Louise. "As retirement' cruising life." alert most of the night. My biggest worry planned, we're berthed for the winter "I had a wonderful solo sail from isn't big ships, but rather the smaller at St. Katherine Dock, which is next Majuro in the Marshall Islands to Fiji's vessels with nobody standing watch. to historic Tower Bridge in London. We Savusavu, with brief stops at Kiribati and There's nothing that can be done about actually have a contingent of 10 North semi-submerged containers. I just have American cruising boats in the marina. to trust my luck. But I carry an EPIRB,

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Page 136 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 IN LATITUDES

in Topolobampo, which life raft and satphone just in case. is 200 miles north of

"The last key," Coggin continues, "is Mazatlan. "It's a small MEXICO TOURISM having the patience to wait for the best marina affiliated with weather window. Being on a schedule, Marina Palmira in La real or imagined, has induced many a Paz. There was only one mariner to leave port too soon and then other sailboat in the have to pay the price. Knock on wood, marina when we were my wife Kim and I have been lucky in there, and maybe 10 all our passages in the South Pacific. small fishing boats. The We recently did the feared 1,100-mile staff is wonderful and Fiji to New Zealand passage. We enjoyed the security great. We 15 knots on the beam for the first five checked in with the port days, but then the breeze built to a bit captain eight days after of a gale for the last 36 hours. Not bad. arriving — oops! — by While I enjoy good company aboard, I calling him on the phone. He came down, The 70,000-square-mile Copper Canyon Nation- also find it delightful to have the boat all looked at our crew list, and that was it. al Park makes the Grand Canyon seem like a to myself for a time. After all, it means I No fees, no copies, no nada. There is fuel relative pothole. But it's a 14-hour train ride. don't have to defend my sail trim, I can close to the marina, but no pump-out ally starts in Los Mochis and ends 14 cook whatever I want whenever I want, station. They told us to just pump our hours and countless mountains later in and can pee over the side and fart when waste into the marina. What? Chihuahua. Thanks to the 126 bridges, I damn well please. While I hope that "Bill and I came to Topolobampo to 87 tunnels, and a 360-degree loop of an my wife Kim and I can share many more do the train trip to Copper Canyon, entire mountain, it only took 100 years offshore miles, I will always look forward which is seven times bigger than our to complete. As you can imagine, the to chances to sail solo in the tropics." Grand Canyon," continues Bartlett. scenery is spectacular! We continued on ShantiAna Bartlett of the San Fran- "Mexico's only passenger train actu- to the town of Creel, which is at 7,800 cisco-based Columbia 38 ShantiAna, is feet. Every home, store, hotel room and the latest to tell us about the new marina restaurant has a fire burning to keep Your Boatyard in the Heart of Paradise HAULOUT • Marine Travelift 25 tons Our Services| • Marine railway 120 tons • Storage in adjustable steel cradles • Fenced Yard PAINTING • Topsides, hull, bottom, varnish • Brush, roller, spray MECHANICAL WORK • Inboard, outboard, diesel, gas • All brands REPAIRS Large, fenced, secure dry storage area • Electrical repairs • Refrigeration installation & repair Tahiti Customs policy has changed! • Fiberglass & woodwork Foreign Flag vessels can stay on dry storage in • Welding, steel, stainless, aluminum our yard for up to 12 months out of 24. SAIL LOFT • Sail repairs, biminis, dodgers, covers STORE Professional boatyard in the heart of Paradise • International, Pettit, Epiglass, Devoe • Spares Raiatea Carenage will make sure • Fill U.S. gas cylinders paradise is everything you expected. DO-IT-YOURSELFERS WELCOME! Call, write, or sail in . . . we're here to serve you. BoatUS Cooperating Marina B.P. 1111 Uturoa Raiatea 98 735 Polynésie Française Tel: (689) 600-545 ~ Fax: (689) 600-546 ~ VHF 68 A Subsidiary of The Moorings Yacht Charter, Ltd. Web site: http://www.raiatea.com/carenage ~ email: [email protected]

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 137 CHANGES

people warm. Our room was nice and clean, had lots of hot water for showers, Idaho-based Deerfoot 50 Blue Rodeo and cost just $18. A great vacation from just returned from a great evening at the boat." SWELL COURTESY the Oasis Hotel here in Santiago Bay," After Jenny Halidman and Randy report Roger and Diana Frizzelle of the Ramirez aboard the Stockton-based Alameda/Mexico-based Catalina 470 Mariah 31 Mystic reported using just 12 Di's Dream. As always, the service was gallons of fuel during their nine-month fabulous. The real reason we're writing crossing of the Pacific to New Zealand, is to let everyone know that Diego, the we asked ocean advocate Liz Clark of the Oasis manager, is now providing dinghy Santa Barbara-based Cal 40 Swell about service to and from the hotel for only 20 her use of fossil fuels. pesos — about $1.50 — to sailors who "The Tuamotus are perfect for wind hail him on Channel 23. This is great and solar power," she responded, "as no news for cruisers who want to go to mountains block the trades or attract shore at Santiago, but don't want to go cloud cover. So in the last six months, I to the trouble of launching their dinghy. only had to use one gallon of gas to run Contact Diego on 23 for all the specials my little Honda generator to supplement they have during the week. P.S. It's mid- my electrical supply for daily needs January and the water temperature is a such as lights, the reefer, the computer Some people preach the simple life from private lovely 80 degrees. and music. During that same period I jets and limos. Others, like Liz, don't pretend to "The coldest winter I ever spent was be perfect, but try their best to walk the talk. used less than eight gallons of diesel a summer in San Francisco," is Mark for Swell's main engine. As I'm not in a waves quickly! But I say 'green hats' off Twain's famous quip about the City by hurry, I can always wait for a favorable to Jenny and Randy for their truly green the Bay. The Vallarta Coast variation is, wind direction before I set sail for a new cruising." "The worst winter day on Banderas Bay destination. I used the most fuel — 12 "We and friends Mark McClellan is better than the best summer day on gallons of gas — for my dinghy outboard. and Anne MacDonald of the McCall, the coast of even Southern California." While I row my dinghy most of the time, The latter is only true, of course, if you sometimes a girl just has to get to the like highs in the 80s, lows in the 60s,

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Page 138 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 IN LATITUDES

uncrowded surfing in the morning with- As for the 'bad' of out a wetsuit, tropical flat water pleasure Mexico, 67-year-old Rob- BLUE RODEO sailing in the afternoon, spectacular sun- in Wood of Vancouver was sets at dusk, delicious $6 dinners, and shot and killed during a maybe a little nookie before you crash. robbery at fellow Canadi- No wonder so many cruising couples an Arvid Chalmer's house proudly say, "We're Mexicans now!" in Melaque on January When we write things like the above, 3. According to Chalm- some people think we're trying to slam ers, Wood was shot when California. We're not. California does he began battling for a have some great things to offer. Nor are suitcase the robbers had we trying to oversell Mexico, which does taken. Jorge Luis Murillo have its share of problems. We're just try- Torres and Ernesto Man- ing to cite some of the reasons so many uel Esparza Leon, two 18-year-olds with Another bad thing that can happen in Mexico: cruisers love Mexico. a history of violent crimes, have been boats go on the beach. Fortunately for 'Sparvi- By the way, the Nayarit Riviera towns arrested. Wood was not a sailor, but we ero', she wasn't badly damaged. of San Pancho, Higuera Blanca, La mention this crime because Melaque, a corner, and got into their super-duper Cruz, and Sayulita — the latter two big very popular winter destination for Ca- new double-cab pick-up. As the man was favorites with cruisers — have all been nadians, shares the same bay with the getting into the driver's seat, he was as- designated 'magical places' by the fed- cruising center of Bahia Navidad. saulted by four Mexicans, one of whom eral government and are therefore now Even closer to most cruisers was a struck him in the head with a gun. The getting major infrastructure makeovers. late-evening incident in early January man's wife ran back to Philo's and got That means new plazas, new central when a non-sailing Canadian friend of the 20 patrons still there to help. By the district streets free of parked cars, utility ours and his wife — they asked not to time they reached the scene of the crime, wires underground, and general beauti- be identified — left Philo's Music Studio her husband had managed to fight the fication. The only puzzling thing is why and Bar in La Cruz, went around the assailants off, but was bleeding from the they're doing it at the height of the tourist head, and the thieves were high-tailing season. it down the road in the couples' truck.

Sailing Elsewhere by Matt Johnston

Matt's book was an enjoyable read. I had TM 'cruised' in the Sea of Cortez 12 years ago on a sailboat and relived my experiences through his eyes. He and Judy, of course, went far beyond Mexico and I eagerly read on. What a wonderful, challenging life they Climb Your Mast Alone with Mast Mate experienced on s/v Elsewhere. Highly rec- Made in the USA for 20 Years ommend reading Sailing Elsewhere. – from an Amazon review Satisfaction Guaranteed This is not a 'disaster at sea' story, (207) 596-0495 nor a survival tale. It is the record www.mastmate.com of nine-and-a-half wonderful years spent cruising in the Pacific. We started in San Francisco with family aboard, but after Cabo San Lucas it was just my wife Judy KATADYN SURVIVOR 35 WATERMAKER and I. We picked our way along the Pacific Coast, through The Survivor is a must for all sea-going vessels and the 'Forgotten Middle' of Central America, and all the way is the most widely used emergency desalinator. It is to Ecuador and then across to the Galapagos, the Marquesas, used by the U.S. and international forces. It is able to and on through French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, both Sa- produce 4.5 liters of drinkable water per hour. These moas, Tonga, and finally north to the Marshall Islands. We are unused U.S. government surplus. were not on the tourist route. There are no hotels in Penrhyn Reconditioned by Katadyn $950. or Niuatoputapu for instance. My hope is that you will en- Compare to factory new price: $1,995. joy this book whether you are an 'Armchair Sailor', someone For more information or who might just sail away eventually, or someone who wants to place an order, please to hear about strange out-of-the-way places. call one of our sales reps. – from Matt Johnston, the author Equipment Parts Sales Available at: In the U.S.: (800) 417-2279 Outside the U.S.: (717) 896-9110 www.amazon.com • www.sailingelsewhere.com

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 139 CHANGES

Philo told Latitude that it was the first outside of La Paz, is being changed to time in the 11 years he's been in La Cruz allow the full use of gill nets up to the that something like that had happened. Matanchen Bay seem to have become shoreline," report the dismayed Chuck He notes that fancy new trucks, which a hotbed of thefts from cruising boats Houlihan and Linda Edeiken of the Puer- are worth as much as $65,000, are in the last eight months. For what it's to Vallarta-based Allied 39 Jacaranda. extremely popular targets for thieves in worth, Norm Goldie has told cruisers "This change will kill all the reef fish and Mexico. Particularly trucks with out-of- that five outboards were stolen from also affect the sea lion population. Unlike country license plates. cruisers last year. most other places in Mexico where there In less violent but nonetheless still From Cuba, with love. "It pleases me is a law but no enforcement, La Paz Bay unpleasant news, two dinghies were to invite Latitude 38 readers to join us is patrolled and illegal-fishing laws are stolen from cruising boats anchored in at the Hemingway International YC of enforced. But the new plan could scuttle Matanchen Bay just south of San Blas. Cuba in celebrating our 20th anniver- those efforts. We urge all readers to take One of them was from Rob and Kai sary," writes our old friend Commodore just a few minutes to go to http://islaes- Sanderson's Ingrid 38 Vellavella. "The Jose Esrich. "The many activities — sail- piritusanto.org, make a few clicks, and dinghy and outboard were cabled and ing in Optimists, Lasers, Hobie Cats, express their feelings. It doesn't matter locked to the boat," reports Rob. "The as well as fun races for cruising boats, that the original deadline has passed." thieves cut the lock sometime during kayaks and canoes — will start in April In good news, Robert Gelser, 'the the night while we were aboard. It was and run through May. Among the many Mayor of Tenacatita Bay', and his wife one of the few nights we hadn't shipped activities will be a sail on April 27 from Virginia, of the Alameda-based Freeport the engine. It's a huge bummer because Marina Hemingway to Havana's Morro 41 Harmony, report all is well at Tena- dinghies are hard to come by and very Castle, a commemoration of the Tampa catita, which has a great amount of sea expensive in Mexico. For the record, it to Havana Race that took place in 1930." life. And, Myron and Marina Eisenzim- was a '91 Achilles 8-ft RIB with oars and Yes, you can take your boat to Cuba, mer of the San Geronimo-based Swan 44 a '92 8-hp, 2-cycle Johnson. Despite our because politically the Obama Adminis- Mykonos report the Mayor of Chemala loss, we want all cruisers to know that we tration can't do anything about it. says the little village survived hurricane found San Blas to be a wonderful place "The fish management plan for Es- Jova with very little damage. with great people. We highly recommend piritu Santo, the beautiful island just Here's to hoping that your cruising a stop — just ship your outboard!" season is going great, and that '12 will The San Blas estuary and nearby be your best year ever.

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Page 140 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 JUST YOU AND THE SEA…

…and the jacuzzi, the 80-ft long pool, the surf, the Punta Mita anchorage, and the 4-mile distant Tres Marietas Islands

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February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 141 Please read before submitting ad Classy CLASSIFIEDS Here’s What To Do: PERSONAL ADS BUSINESS ADS DEADLINE Write your ad. Indicate category. Remember is ALWAYS the price and contact info. We make fi nal placement 1-40 Words ...... $40 $70 for 40 Words Max determination. 41-80 Words ...... $65 • All promotional advertising • 18th at 5 pm Count the words. Anything with a space 81-120 Words ....$90 1 boat per broker per issue for ad to appear in the next issue. before and after counts as one word. We will Photo ...... $30 Logo OK, but no photos/reversals spell-check, abbreviate, edit, as necessary. Due to our short lead time, • Personal Advertising Only • No extra bold type • Max: 12 pt font deadlines are very strict and Mail your ad with check or money order, No business or promo ads except Artwork subject to editor approval. deliver to our offi ce; OR, for the best – and Non-Profi t, Job Op, Business Op Biz ads will not appear on website. include weekends & holidays. most exposure – of your classifi ed ad… ‘Trying to Locate’ Ads are for those searching for Sorry, but… Submit your ad safely online lost boats/people – not shopping – and cost • No ads accepted by phone with Visa, MasterCard or AmEx at: $10 for 20 words max • No ads without payments www.latitude38.com FREE Online Ads are for a private party selling • No billing arrangements Ad will be posted online within two business days, a boat for less than $1,000 – or gear totalling under $1,000. • No verifi cation of receipt appear in the next issue of the magazine, and re- (One per person; must list prices in ad.) • We reserve the right to refuse main online until the following issue is released. All ads will be set to fi t Latitude 38 standard • Re-Run Ads: Same price, same deadline poor quality photos or illegible ads. Latitude 38 15 Locust Ave, Mill Valley, CA 94941 Questions? (415) 383-8200, ext 104 • [email protected]

19-FT WEST WIGHT POTTER, 2000. WHAT’S IN A DEADLINE? Our Classifi ed $11,500/obo. Lightly used, too many Deadline has always been the 18th of the extras to list. Includes new 2.6hp OB. Call month, and it’s still pretty much a brick for more info. (707) 763-3444. wall if you want to get your ad into the magazine. But it’s not so important any- more when it comes to getting exposure 25 TO 28 FEET for your ad. With our new system, your ad gets posted to our website within a day or so of submission. Then it appears in the next issue of the magazine. So you’re much better off if you submit or J/24, 1981. Brickyard Cove. $8,000. In 28-FT ALERION EXPRESS, 2007. renew your ad early in the month. That very good condition. One set of sails. Sausalito. $89,000. Lizbeth. Hull #359. way your ad begins to work for you im- Recently replaced most deck fittings One of a kind, fully loaded. Seeing mediately. There’s no reason to wait for and mainsheet traveler. New running rig- is believing. Bristol, fully maintained the last minute. ging and halyards. Includes single-axle and varnished yacht. Contact Michael. trailer, new 5hp Mercury outboard. Check www.lizbeth359.com. (415) 608-6919 or out the website for additional photos. [email protected]. www.fl ickr.com/photos/70367995@N07/ DINGHIES, LIFERAFTS sets/72157628114491273/show. Con- 26-FT MACGREGOR, 1988. Richardson tact [email protected] or (925) Bay Marina. $4,000. Shallow 18” draft. AND ROWBOATS 487-0588. Very clean - in and out. 5hp 4-stroke long shaft Honda OB. Marine battery, 9-FT LIVINGSTON8, MODEL 9, 2006. 24-FT FLICKA, 1983. Alameda Marina. compass, depth alarm, sails and rigging Emeryville, CA. $550. Certifi ed for 4 pas- $30,000. Yanmar 1GM, bronze ports, in good shape. Dagger board keel with sengers and up to 8hp. Lightly used and brown hull, barrier coat, teak ceilings, water ballast tank. More photos at http:// in excellent condition. Very stable/easy Hogan main & 80%, storm jib, trysail, riccosworld.com/1988mcgregor26.htm. boarding. Includes oars, locks, and SS drifter, cruising spinnaker, 120%, 140%, Call Richard (415) 378-7380. snap davits. [email protected]. small dodger, Bruce 22#, all lighting LED, 2 AGM batteries, winter and summer 28-FT PEARSON TRITON, 1962. San 27-FT HILLYARD, 1938. Ventura . $9,000/ boom tents. Contact (510) 703-7050 or Carlos, Sonora, Mexico. $8,500. Modifi ed obo. Great opportunity to own clas- 24 FEET & UNDER fl [email protected]. for offshore cruising. Masthead rig with sic English sailboat! This well main- bowsprit, heavy duty mast support, hard tained stout sloop is a great island J/24, 1980. Treasure Island. $1,500. dodger, cockpit enclosure, Westerbeke boat and true example of fine mate- 23-FT RANGER, 1973. Marina Bay. Ex-St. Francis racer. Full set of sails: 3 10hp diesel, autopilot, radar, roller furl- rial and craftsmanship. Sell or trade $2,800. Hood mainsail, Mercury out- jibs/genoa, 1 reefable main, spinnakers ing, solar panels. Ready to go! http:// for nice RV. More at http://yachtsof- board, marine head, lifelines and much and several racing sails. Engine, PFDs, sancarlosyachtsales.com/sail-boats-for- fered.com/yachtsoffered.cfm?yachts__ more are relatively new. Halyards led to running lights. Good bones but needs sale?item=2407969. Contact (503) 342- listingid=1291767&returntype=3. Con- cockpit. A Gary Mull-designed masterful TLC. Check pics. http://ow.ly/8ubX6. 2065 or [email protected]. tact [email protected] or (818) Bay cruiser. [email protected] or Contact [email protected] or 235-6291. (530) 622-7671. (415) 287-3250.

CARPENTRY NOR-CAL COMPASS OODRUM MARINE Mobile cabinet shop W Specializing in custom interior Contact Lon Woodrum at: Adjustment • Sales cabinetry, tables, cabinets, countertops, 415-420-5970 Authorized Compass Repair cabinsoles. For power or sail. www.woodrummarine.com Hal McCormack • [email protected] • Phone/Fax (415) 892-7177 N.E. MARINE TITLE Coast Guard documentation • Title/lien searches • Transfers • Mortgage ﬁ ling • Escrow services B O A T • L E T T E R I N G Local closing facility for brokers or private transactions 30 years experience of doing it right the ﬁ rst time [email protected] • (510) 599-1197 • www.alphaboatgraphics.com 1150 Ballena Blvd, Alameda, CA • (510) 521-4925 Creative and durable lettering and artwork for your boat

Page 142 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 30-FT CATALINA, 1995. Alameda. 29 TO 31 FEET $49,900. Like new. Walk-through transom, full canvas including new bimini, sail and pedestal covers. Low engine hours, self-tending jib, 135 Genoa, Dutchman. Autohelm, depth, windspeed. Anchors, props. TV, DVD, microwave, hot water. Professionally maintained. Pics available. (510) 220-1952.

28-FT S2 CRUISER-RACER, 1980. 25-FT PACIFIC SEACRAFT, 1976. Red 30-FT CATALINA, 1984. Berkeley. SWYC, San Diego. $19,000/obo. Great Bluff. $35,000 w/trailer. A beautiful loaded $18,000. Great day sailer or liveaboard. example of S2 quality. Beautiful dark Pacifi c Seacraft 25 and like-new EZ Load- Clean interior and exterior. Universal 30-FT BABA, 1980. Berkeley. $45,000/ diesel, tabernacle mast, standard rig and blue hull, nice interior with teak and holly er trailer for sale. Boat is cruise equipped. owner finance. Beautiful, bluewater sole. Over $20k in retrofi t/upgrades over No expense spared on this beauty. Must keel. Currently in Berkeley Marina, from cruiser. Diesel 70 hours. $15k 2010 Santa Cruz Harbor, with 1 year Santa Cruz last several years include rebuilt Yanmar see! (530) 354-4885 or (001-507) 6111- haulout: mast, re-rigged, barrier, furler and following new items: sails, standing 6450 or [email protected]. slip sublease available. (415) 828-1354 or jib, batteries. Teak decks, windlass, [email protected]. rigging, Harken rollerfurling, autopilot, autopilot, diesel heater, bristol 6’6’ inte- masthead wind instrument, fresh/salt- rior. Recent upgrades. http://yachtsof- water head system, depth gauge, DSC fered.com/yachtsoffered.cfm?yachts__ 32 TO 35 FEET VHS, stereo and more. Ready to give new listingid=1291697&returntype=3. (510) owner many years of service. Moving up 258-4053 or [email protected]. to larger boat. Contact (858) 245-9004 or 35-FT GRAND BANKS (MAGELLAN). [email protected]. Sailing yacht, 1964. Best offer above 10K. Strip-planked mahogany with teak cabin sides, aft cabin, 80hp Ford Lehman diesel. New deck. SRYH covered berth- good liveaboard. Bronze fastened, lead 25-FT CATALINA, 1981. Sausalito. keel. 18,000 lbs. 6’4” headroom (sailing $7,500. Full main and storm main, roller houseboat). (562) 899-0774 (eve). furling jib, spinnaker with sock, Honda 9.9 electric start engine, Pop-Top with canvas 32-FT WESTSAIL, 1972. Richmond, CA. enclosure, autopilot, 2 anchors, and more. $26,000. 32-ft Westsail factory fi nished, Sausalito berth available. (650) 324-9653 30-FT CATALINA , 1984. Oakland Yacht original Crealock layout. Pre-blister era or [email protected]. Club Marina, Alameda, CA. $31,000. resin, heavy construction. Volvo 25hp 26-FT MACGREGOR, 1995. Redwood Immaculate. Fully restored, all rigging, MD11D installed early 80s, consider- City. $5,000/obo. Clean inside and out. sails, self furling jib, re-built transmission, able recent maintenance investments. Centerboard has been reworked for traveler, custom built dodger, electrical, Some things are needed. Realistically greater strength and less play when tack- instrument panel, etc. Sails like a dream. priced at $26,000/obo. Please, serious ing. With Yamaha 4-stroke, 8hp outboard. Must see. (925) 803-4488 or (925) 895- inquiries only. Contact (510) 222-7882 or Neil Pryde sails are in good condition. 6629 or [email protected]. [email protected]. Main, 100%, and 120% (?). Taylor Made bimini (needs new fabric). Siemens PV 31-FT HUNTER, 1987. Alameda. $18,500. battery charger. Alcohol stove, Magma Roller furling, Yanmar diesel. Interior like BBQ. (650) 208-1916 or (650) 522-7229 new, diesel like new, Force 10 stove and or [email protected]. oven and cabin heater, hard dodger, 27-FT SANTA CRUZ, 1982. Corpus DS, KM, new bottom paint 2011. (510) Christi, TX. $9,900. Well equipped, ready 927-7322. to race. 2005 Trailrite trailer in excellent shape. Good sail inventory. High tech halyards and sheets. New stereo with XM and wired cockpit remote. VHF and instruments. Bottom stripped, bar- 35-FT YOUNG SUN CUTTER, 1981. rier coated with 2000e, and painted with San Carlos, Mexico. Best offer for this Trinidad SR in 2010. Sides epoxy primed proven bluewater cruiser, ready to sail the with polyurethane top coat 2010. Call or world, fully cruise equipped. Designed by email for more information. Richard. (361) Robert Perry, same layout as Tayana 37. 25-FT SANTANA 525, 1979. Folsom 460-0120 or [email protected]. Was $62,800. More information: http:// Lake Marina, CA. $10,500. Santana 525 youngsun.squarespace.com/specs. in exceptional condition. Recent topcoat 26-FT CATALINA/CAPRI, 1997. Tahoe. 30-FT CAPE DORY CUTTER, 1984. Contact [email protected] or (970) refi nish, keel fairing, and epoxy bottom by $14,950. Fresh water boat. Diesel, wheel Alameda. $37,500. Well maintained. Re- 259-5102. dealer Morrison Marine. Includes all safety steering, bimini, depth, speed, autopilot cent E80 radar, VariProp, new upholstery, gear, large sail inventory with a beautiful (not installed), VHF, shore cable, teak cushions and canvas. A sweet sailing boat ISLANDER 32 MK II, 1977. Marina Vil- main, anchor, 2hp outboard, recent run- cockpit table. Covers for main/pedestal/ and easy to singlehand. Lots of pictures lage. $11,500. New main and jib, new ning rigging, replaced main bulkheads companionway. Compass, Genoa, tan- and information at website. http://cd-30. batteries. Recent major service on Atomic and keel fl ooring. Contact (916) 343-1811 dem axle trailer. Boat is in great condition blogspot.com. Contact (510) 910-2099 or Four including new alternator. VHF, D/S. or [email protected]. 8404 Sundrop but needs mast, rigging, mainsail. Email [email protected]. 6’4” headroom, a very well maintained Way, Antelope, CA 95843. [email protected]. stock Islander. Will consider reason- 29-FT J/BOAT, 1984. Redwood City able offers. Call during business hours. Marina. $15,000. Smokin J, SF Bay class (925) 284-4433 or (925) 285-1737 or champ. Main, new jib, genoa, 2 spinna- [email protected]. kers, 4-stroke OB 6hp, all safety equipment, VHF radio. Call Rich (650) 363-1390 or [email protected]. 451 Sea- port Ct, Redwood City, CA 94063.

RIGGING ONLY ✪ SMALL AD, SMALL PRICES MARINE SURVEYS - Capt. Alan Hugenot Standing and running rigging, life lines, furling gear, winches, line, Accredited Marine Surveyor (since 2004) • (415) 531-6172 windlasses, travelers, wire and terminals, blocks, vangs, and much more. Yacht Master (USCG 200 tons - International) • Port Engineer ~ Problem solving and discount mail order since 1984 ~ Yacht Manager • Delivery Skipper • Boat Handling, Navigation www.riggingonly.com • (508) 992-0434 • [email protected] & Safety Instructor • Accepts MC & VISA STARBOARD YACHT DELIVERIES Spaulding Wooden Boat Center Youth Boatbuilding Program • Community Sails Over 50,000 sea miles • Paciﬁ c, Caribbean, Atlantic Boatworks since 1956 • We Specialize in Wooden Boats USCG Master 100 GT STCW • Power & Sail Become a Member! 501(c)(3) Rick Whiting • (415) 740-2924 • [email protected] www.spauldingcenter.org • (415) 332-3179

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 143 33-FT CS, 1981. Richmond Yacht Club. 34-FT CATALINA, 1989. Richmond. $29,900. Awesome CS 33. Ray Wall $34,000. Very good condition, recent 36 TO 39 FEET design, many upgrades. New full batten engine work, and painted bottom, teak main with Dutchman, Vectran/Dacron restoration, nice galley, excellent coastal 36-FT ISLANDER I-36, 1974. Berkeley, jib on Harken furler, fuel tank/system, cruiser or liveaboard. Bargain at $34,000. CA. $27,500. Survey Jan. 2011. Bottom Force 10 stove, chart plotter, VHF/wham, Contact [email protected] or (916) paint, zincs, cutlass bearing - May 2011. dodger, more. Contact (530) 448-6167 or 791-0833. New full cockpit enclosure and bronze tint [email protected]. windows, UV protection added to 2 headsails, 2 Harken #46 2-speed self-tailing 32-FT ERICSON, 1969. Owl Harbor. winches. Farymann R30 diesel engine, $10,000. Well built and well maintained radar, GPS. Contact (503) 481-9769 or [email protected]. HANS CHRISTIAN 38 MK II, 1979. Em- vintage boat. Suitable for cruiser or livea- eryville. $97,500. Beautiful world cruiser! board. New bottom paint and zincs last New 65hp diesel 2003, standing rigging year. Atomic 4, autopilot, GPS, holding 37-FT RAFIKI, 1978. Long Beach. $59,995. Cutter, furling, excellent shape, 2007, barrier coat 2009, electric wind- tank, VHF, stereo, microwave, barbecue lass 2010. GPS, AIS, radar, windvane, and stove on propane system, four sails. moving up, no teak decks, hull and topsides LP. Updated electronics, radar, autopilot, cabin heater, HF/Ham radio, Contact [email protected] or (209) hard dodger, and much, much more. See 572-2934. depth, GPS, Auto, knot, wind, autopilot. New lower cushions, has reefer and at http://sailsugata.com/forsale. Email 34-FT MASON, 1989. Fort Lauderdale, [email protected]. 32-FT WESTSAIL. Pillar Point Harbor, FL. $125,000/obo. Beautiful Tashing-built freezer. Water heater and pressurized Half Moon Bay. $40,000. Hull #417. sloop. Imported by PAE in CA. 35’ LOA. water system, fresh varnish always main- Teak/mahogany interior: center table/fwd Totally equipped. Roomier than most 36s. tained. (310) 251-8860. locker layout. 3 headsails, 1 stay sail, 1 Ready to sail around the world. Free slip drifter. Perkins 4-108. Needs new mainsail available. www.sugartime.net. Contact 36-FT ISLANDER, 1978. Stockton. and boom. Contact (650) 303-3901 or (954) 815-6364 or [email protected]. $23,000. Documented, roller furling, 2 [email protected]. jibs, full batten main, 2-speed winches, 33-FT TARTAN 10, 1978. Alameda. dodger/bimini, reliable Perkins 4-108, 2 $4,500. Needs TLC. Yanmar engine- new batteries and charger, recent bottom works, main, jib, spinnaker, anchor paint, propane stove, VHF radio, pres- included in sale. Needs fi berglass work sure H20, dinghy, needs cosmetic work. in mast support area. Email for photos. Contact [email protected] or (209) 609-5350. 38-FT HUGHES, 1970. Monterey, CA. Contact Jayne at [email protected] or $19,000. S&S design, built in Canada. Glen at (510) 339-9451. CATALINA 36 MK II, 2001. Santa Cruz. 74 hours on near-new diesel engine, $109,000. Very Clean. Autopilot, GPS pressure hot/cold water, sound hull, no 33-FT SPAULDING, 1962. Sausalito. blisters. Great Bay sailer with slip avail- $10,000 FIRM. One of a kind, Pegasus, chartplotter, windlass, dodger, roller furling jib, asymmetrical spinnaker. Universal able in Monterey or Moss Landing. (831) is exceptionally seaworthy and easy to 915-4984. 34-FT ISLANDER, 1974. Santa Cruz, sail, and, not surprisingly for a Myron 35hp diesel under 1450 hours. Inverter, CA. $25,000. Ready for cruising and Spaulding design, competitive on the 12v refrigerator, microwave,TV with DVD player, stereo with cockpit/cabin speak- 37-FT ENDEAVOUR A-PLAN, 1979. liveaboard! She’s in great shape with very racing scene. Pegasus has a hard chine Marina Mazatlan. $44,500. Strong, safe recent haulout. Stout fi berglass hull with hull planked with medium density overlay ers. Many extras. Magma grill, dock box, Zarcor companionway doors. Excellent cruiser, roomy liveaboard, Caribbean/ a classic teak trim inside and out with plywood with sawn frames and plywood Mexico vet. Extensive re-fi t 2008, fully 5 year bristol fi nish. Bronze portholes, gussets at the chine joints. The engine is transferable slip location in Pacifi c Yacht- ing charter fl eet in Santa Cruz Harbor. cruise equipped. Kyocera 125 solar pan- winches, chocks, and lazarette buckles. a new Yanmar. Pegasus is extremely well els, air marine wind generator, Avon 10’2” Nice set of sails - not new, but good crafted and in great shape. New varnish Forget the 20+ year waiting list. Enjoy it now! Email [email protected]. RIB, Yamaha 15, full cockpit enclosure, shape. Tabernacled mast if you need it. ($8,000 value) and a full cover. More at many extras. Contact (831) 600-7232 or She’s not winning any races, but she’ll www.spauldingcenter.org. [email protected]. get you there in comfort and style. Made the crossing from Hawaii once. Inside: 33-FT RANGER, 1977. Ventura. $22,500. lots of storage, propane heater and stove Excellent condition. Refi t to cruise Chan- w/oven and broiler, fridge, freezer, great nel Islands, ready for Mexico. Universal galley with deep sink and working pantry. diesel, new windlass, large sail inventory, Sleeps four. Low hours great shape Yan- infl atable, 6hp outboard, very clean, lightly mar 2-cyl diesel. Contact (831) 239-6192 used. www.flickr.com/photos/ventura- or [email protected]. boatdoctor/sets/72157628129538512/? share=mail. Contact (415) 602-7302 or 32-FT WESTSAIL, 1975. Berkeley. [email protected]. $35,000. Beta Marine 1505 diesel, 37-FT COOPER LIMITED ED. pilothouse sloop, 1985. Alameda, California. <200hrs., SSB, Viking raft, Monitor wind- 38-FT GAFF-RIGGED. Centerboard yawl, vane, GPS/radar. http://xenotropic.net/ $80,000. Recently back from a cruise in the Caribbean and ready for her next San Rafael. $35,000. Bill Garvie found sinamara.html. Contact (510) 517-9217 drawings in Yachting, Dec. 1938 of gaff- or [email protected]. passage. View our web page for specifi - cations, equipment, and pictures: http:// rigged 38-ft centerboard yawl, designed 1892. Faithful reproduction, precisely 33-FT RANGER. Alameda. $15,500. web.mac.com/pecahill. Contact (530) 305-7977 or [email protected]. built, Sarah, launched 2006. Sound, fully Universal diesel, Spectra H2O maker, found, sails by Nat Wilson, Yanmar diesel. large sail inventory, mostly Pineapple, Email fl [email protected]. 406 EPIRB, Force 10 propane stove and CATALINA 36 MK II, 1995. Alameda, CA. $81,000. Excellent condition, includes heater, windlass, wheel. This Mexico vet HANS CHRISTIAN 38 MK II, 1983. San is ready to go again. www.latitude38. 33-FT HOBIE, 1979. Marina del Rey. windlass, hot/cold pressurized water, inverter, VHF, electronics, low engine Diego. $45,000. Priced to sell. Email for com/features/bomRanger33.htm. Email $22,000. Turbo Hobie 33 with retractable full info at [email protected]. for photos [email protected] or keel, many new sails, carbon boom, open hours, 15hp Johnson motor and Zodiac (510) 507-0200. transom, kelp window, outboard, LED tri- infl atable. (510) 523-4081 or roystark@ light, boat battery, autopilot, etc. Email for aol.com. photos [email protected].

MOBILE MARINE PUMP-OUT SERVICE NOR’SEA 37 $25 per pump up to 40 gallons. Designed by Lyle Hess Built by Michael Hess of Hess Marine Includes fresh water ﬂ ush and a packet of treatment. Big Brother to the NOR’SEA 27 20% discount for regularly scheduled service. Stout Offshore World Cruiser Cutter Rig Canoe Stern www.mobilepumpout.com • (415) 465-0149 • [email protected] NEW BUILD NOW AVAILABLE • WWW.NORSEA37.COM For the best – and most exposure – of your classiﬁ ed ad… boat bottom scrubbing & more . . . submit your ad safely online at: www.latitude38.com. Your ad will be posted online within two business days, appear in the next issue of the magazine, 415.331.SAIL [email protected] www.gotzinc.com Classy Idea! and remain online until the following issue is released.

Page 144 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 41-FT MORGAN CLASSIC MODEL. 1991. San Carlos, Mexico. $93,000. Cruiser, in primo condition, ready to go. Spacious interior - must see to appreciate. Recent survey. See website for current photos, complete equipment list: http://sailboatvagari.blogspot.com. Contact [email protected] or (520) 825-7551.

38-FT HALSEY HERRESHOFF. Cat 40-FT NEWPORTER KETCH, 1957. 40-FT VALIANT 40-112, 1975. Long ketch, 1983. San Rafael. $49,000. Fast, Berkeley Marina. $57,000/obo. Isuzu Beach, CA. $119,500/asking. Ready for beautiful, easily handled liveaboard cruis- inboard diesel engine, 13 sails, Dickinson immediate cruising! Pre-blister V-40 built er. Unstayed carbon-fi ber masts. Diesel. heater, freshly painted, beamy cushioned in Bellingham, WA. Features include fully Impressive wood interior. Two sleeping salon, galley, dinette, head, ample sup- battened mainsail, roller furling jib and cabins. Two heads one w/composting plies, equipment, storage. Full-cushioned staysail and navigation computer. Major toilet. Brand new sails and Awlgrip. Ex- cockpit, bright, warm pilothouse. Contact upgrades to all systems - high output tremely well equipped. Canister liferaft. (415) 971-0361 or (508) 776-2440 or alternator, refrigerator, 3-burner propane (707) 254-0220. [email protected]. stove, AIS, autopilot and anchor windlass. Contact Gary Schneider. See website for 40-FT LANCER, 1984. Loch Lomond 42-FT TARTAN T.O.C.K., 1976. $89,900. more information. http://bit.ly/vMLFzU. Marina. $30,000. Motorsail, center cock- S&S design to world cruise (great livea- Contact [email protected] or pit, 61hp Perkins diesel, furling main and board). 80hp diesel, 160 gal water, 130 (562) 212-3783. jib, spacious interior w/2 full staterooms, gal fuel, 20 gal holding. Two companion- diesel wall heater, full galley, 1 head w/ ways, 3 hatches, 17 S/S opening ports. 42-FT CATALINA, 1990. South Beach separate vanity. Great liveaboard. (415) Major upgrades. Sails, fuel system, Harbor, San Francisco. $89,000 USD. 686-1247 or [email protected]. refrig/freezer, etc. Go to YachtsOffered Great condition. Extensive upgrades. website: http://yachtsoffered.com, listing Full specs at: http://leluya.blogspot.com. #1291773. Contact (510) 834-3261 or Contact [email protected] or (650) [email protected]. 241-1440. 36-FT CAL, 1966. Richmond YC $27,900. Holiday. Beautiful, strong, comfortable. Major refi t including complete electrical rewire. Refrigerator, propane stove, cabin heater, roller furling, autopilot, radar, Westerbeke diesel, electric windlass, 2011 bottom paint, too much to list. Detailed specs, photos: (916) 705-3200 or [email protected]. 40-FT X-402, 1986. San Diego. $149,000. X-Yacht racer cruiser with Kevlar/Divi- nylcell hull and deck and rod rigging. 40 TO 50 FEET Repowered (2010: 3YM30 + KM3V, all CATALINA 470, 2001. Port Ludlow, WA. 44-FT ANTIGUA, 1985. Southeast new propulsion system: MaxProp, shaft, $214,990. Price reduced.. Fantastic boat! Asia. $172,000. Fully-equipped, well 2 staterooms 2 heads, tall rig, bow thrust- 46-FT KELLY PETERSON, 1982. Morro P-strut, and PSS). New barrier coat, an- maintained cruising yacht. Conveniently tifouling, and autopilot (2011). 13 good er, electric headsail furling, in-boom full located in a beautiful cruising ground. Bay. $174,000. Cruise ready with long list batten main with electric winch, washer/ of equipment. 2 staterooms, 2 heads with sails: complete racing and cruising sets. Loads of storage and headroom, walk-in 2 double aft cabins, V-berth, wing berths, dryer combo, Webasto heat, freezer/ engine room, huge center cockpit. Ideal new electric toilets, reefer and freezer, reefer. 75hp turbo Yanmar, 3-blade Auto- large center cockpit, etc. Comfortable and full cockpit enclosure, Webasto heating. for cruising. See website for details: www. 8-person Zodiac recertifi ed (2012) life prop. Excellent condition. (509) 981-3838 totalgood.com/australis. (904) 297-3229 great sailing boat that’s ready to go any- or [email protected]. where! www.facebook.com/pages/Kelly- raft and hard dinghy. Contact us for visit or [email protected]. Peterson-46-sailboat/172704439424234. or test sail at [email protected] or Contact [email protected] or (619) 955-0986. (805) 459-1909. TAKEN OFF

42-FT CATALINA, 1994. Richmond. 43-FT TASWELL, 1995. Bainbridge $119,000.MARKET Beautiful condition, wing keel, Island, WA. $299,000. Pristine, center 41-FT CT, 1976. Vallejo. $65,000/obo. A/C, heat, generator, radar, depth, new cockpit full enclosure, Leisure Furl main, canvas, new main, windlass, refrigerator, 46-FT SLOOP WOOD HULL. F.S.Ford Veteran cruising yacht. Owned by the electric winch, RF genoa, low hours on same owner since 1976. It has many flat screen, surround sound, Pullman, main and 5kw genset, watermaker, chart design, 1961. Marina Mazatlan, Maza- separate shower. tlan, Mexico. $61,000. Cold molded cruising extras. Sails, anchors, and plotter, radar, Espar heat, much more. 3-layer red cedar over classic wooden ground tackle. Set of world charts. http://nxtues.wordpress.com. Contact hull. South Paciﬁ c veteran. SS rigging, 75hp Volvo diesel. (415) 726-3322 or [email protected] or (206) aluminum mast, boom, spinnaker pole. [email protected]. 295-1024. Contact for photos: [email protected] or (530) 656-2157.

OFFSHORE PASSAGEMAKING INSTRUCTION IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC PROFESSIONAL DELIVERY CAPTAINS John & Amanda Neal are dedicated to providing hands-on, San Diego based, USCG Master 100 GT. Sail and power. documented instruction aboard their Hallberg-Rassy 46 Mahina Tiare III, ASA-certifi ed instructional deliveries. Pacifi c Mexico and Baja Bash specialists. drawing on their combined 544,000 miles and 69 years of experience. [email protected] • www.boatdeliverycaptain.org www.mahina.com • (360) 378-6131 • (619) 913-7834 • South Pacifi c 2012 Northen California Sailing Calendar & YRA Master Schedule Going Somewhere? Pick one up at our offi ce, 15 Locust Ave., Mill Valley, CA. 94941 Stop by our offi ce and take a bundle of magazines along with you. We promise you’ll be a hero for sharing them with other cruisers! Or go online and download the eBook or order a hard copy at: Latitude 38 • 15 Locust Ave • Mill Valley, CA • (415) 383-8200 • Open M-F 9-5 www.latitude38.com

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 145 40-FT ACAPULCO, 1976. Mazatlan, MX. $59,000. Designed and set up for cruis- CLASSIC BOATS ing, safe with easy motion at sea. Two dinghies, hydraulic and wheel autopilots, Monitor windvane, solar panels, Technau- tics refrigeration, new radar, new Yanmar 3JH5E engine. http://TotalYachtSales. com. (866) 380-8522 or (669) 913-4272 or [email protected].

45-FT GARDEN YAWL. One-off, double 50-FT FERRO-CEMENT SAILBOAT. end, 3 years in restoration, 98% com- 1980. SRYH. $75,000. Converted for pleted, cold-molded over original strip liveaboard 700+sq ft. 3 bedrooms, bath 40.5-FT NORDEREY, 1952. Moss Land- planked, new electric motor. $60K as is, and 1/2. Hardwood fl oors throughout, ing Harbor, dock A71. $20,000/obo. or $? to fi nish. Contact (916) 847-9064 or except galley is tiled. 190,0000 BTU tank- Built in St. Monans, Scotland. All wood. [email protected]. less hot water, washer/dryer, 40,000 BTU Hull in excellent shape. Needs work. centeral heat and wood burning parlor One owner for 35+ years. Perkins 4-108 stove. More photos at http://picasaweb. engine. Full sail inventory plus, Aries self google.com/mikemacleancotten/50Foo steering. Looking for a good steward. tLiveaboard. Contact (415) 601-9559 or Contact Tim: [email protected] or 44-FT TARTAN 4400, 2003. Channel [email protected]. Island Harbor. $399,000, or trade? Re- (209) 570-9951. duced price! Dark green hull, low hours, bow thruster, electric winches, Vacufl ush 51 FEET & OVER heads, spinnaker, new batteries, recent bottom paint, numerous other options/ upgrades. See test sail at www.youtube. 59-FT SAMSON KETCH, 1972. Newport com, search Tartan 4400, our actual boat! Beach, CA. Video available via email. 41-FT NEWPORT 41S, 1977. Cabrillo Custom built 3 staterooms, two heads, Marina, San Pedro, CA $28,500. This is Contact [email protected] or (530) 318-0730. seating for 8, inside steering station. Ma- an offshore capable cruiser, Bay fun boat, hogany interior. 9 knot calculated speed. or comfortable liveaboard. More new sails Never been in water. In drydock in New- than you can wear out. Spinnakers, reach- port Beach, CA. (714) 963-9282. ers, drifters. Perkins 4-108, new fridge, 45-FT SPARKMAN & STEPHENS, 1960. AIS/VHF radio, A/P, davits, etc. New Inte- 52-FT IRWIN, 1984. Puerto Vallarta, Ballena Isle Marina. $40,000. S&S design rior: cushions, headliner, propane system, Mexico. $245,000. Gorgeous Irwin 52 #708. Argentina built of local hardwood, etc. Contact [email protected] or ketch. Love the boat and would rather copper riveted. 45’ LOA; 31’ LWL; 10’ 8” (213) 250-2893 or (213) 300-3446. have a 50% partner than sell outright. beam; 6’4” draft. Recent decks and rig- Tons of upgrades. See website for all the ging. Aluminum spars. Tiller steering. Au- info. www.freya52.com. (530) 342-1665 tohelm. Master Mariners and Jessica Cup or [email protected]. competitor. New full boat covers. New 48-FT ISLANDER, 1985. Sausalito. spinnaker. New LPU topsides. 35hp BMW $179,000. This is a classic Ted Brewer diesel; runs, needs work. picasaweb. design built by Islander. Pristine condition, google.com/109279823363611668825/ 3 year renovation just completed. Just Valiant45SparkmanStephensSloop. (510) about everything is new, sails, rigging, 846-4178 or [email protected]. plumbing, pumps, etc. Call or email for all the information. (415) 846-6919 or (415) 46-FT MORGAN 462, 1981. Vallejo Marina. 331-6200 or [email protected]. MULTIHULLS $146,000/obo. Bulletproof center-cockpit cruising ketch, keel-stepped masts, integral ballast, skeg-hung rudder, external 63-FT STAYSAIL SCHOONER, 1976. chainplates, two cabins/heads, many Coronado, CA. $125,000/Asking. Classic new systems, immaculate. http://s766. naval architect-designed/professionally photobucket.com/albums/xx309/tmess- built 63-ft LOD Samson “C-Witch” ferro er/Morgan%20462%20Cruising%20 cement staysail schooner. Magnifi cent in- Sailboat/?albumview=slideshow&tr. Con- terior, teak deck. Great blue water cruiser/ tact (707) 334-3670 or [email protected]. charter yacht. Recently hauled, good surveys. Must see to appreciate the exten- 41-FT CORONADO, 1972. Loreto, BC sive quality design detail work. One owner 38-FT SPIRITED 380, 2010. Ventura. $41,000. Center cockpit ketch. Turn-key since launched in 1976. Licensed captain/ $425,000. 1.5 years new. Custom built condition. Perkins 4107. Watermaker, professional yacht builder. Must sell due Jim Betts. High quality fi t/fi nish, Volvo radar, solar, Hypalon 310 RIB, 15hp to age/health. More than $450,000 in saildrives, sleeps 6, 2 heads, watermaker, outboard, davits. Too much to list. Sails construction costs. Please see URL link 2 steering stations, GM Sails Australia, great, shows well, and is roomy. In for details/pictures. www.schooner4sale. carbon daggerboards w/spare, carbon Puerto Escondido, BC on private moor- com. Email [email protected]. retractable sprit. www.bayadere.info. ing (included). Contact (310) 663-7776 or Contact [email protected] or (805) 689- [email protected]. 7306. 50-FT FD-12, 1981. Sea of Cortez. Un- sinkable turn-key blue water cruiser, AK/ Mex/SoPac vet. Superb galley in pilothouse. Berths for 5-6 w/2 staterooms fwd and master stateroom aft, ensuite heads and great fore/aft privacy. See website for details: www.svdaydreamer.com.

NEW... Kiwi Grip Non-Skid • Non-Skid Decks by Gordie MULTIHULL YACHT DESIGNER • MARINE SURVEYOR John R. Marples, CMS • Certifi ed, National Association of Marine Surveyors GORDON NASH BOAT BUILDERS Multihull Design Specialist • Pleasure and Commercial Local... as in Sausalito. I have samples. Custom colors available. Design offi ce for Jim Brown Searunner, Seaclipper & Constant Camber Multihulls [email protected] • (415) 332-7269 www.searunner.com • (707) 343-1378 • [email protected] YOGA FOR SAILORS ON THE SAN RAFAEL & ALAMEDA WATERFRONT THIS COULD BE YOU… Let the Classy Classifi ed business ads work for you. Small group classes in San Rafael Tues./Thurs. evenings, Sat. mornings at Evie Too Sailing in Alameda. More info: Submit online at: (415) 785-4530, (510) 333-8846, www.bowyoga.com, www.latitude38.com www.evietoo.com, [email protected].

Page 146 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 34-FT GEMINI 105MC, 2005. Redwood COME JOIN US FOR A WEEK. Take City, California. $149,500. Great family or a vacation! Learn or share your sailing race boat. Perfect for San Francisco Bay, skills with a USCG Captain. We have no coast, Mexico, and beyond. Fast; easy to itinerary. Email us to fi nd out where we sail without heeling. Spacious deck and will be on your desired dates. Form a interior. Elegant and comfortable. See group up to 6 of your friends and have website details. http://loonasea.gibbons. the whole boat - a 52’ ketch with the fi n- web.stanford.edu. Contact (650) 380- est amenities. Shared expenses of only 3343 or [email protected]. $700/person/week includes, food, fuel, slip fees, scuba gear and tank fi lls. Great 53-FT KRISTEN STEEL TRAWLER. 49-FT CUSTOM TRAWLER YACHT. food, good friends, and adventure. Email 2005. La Paz, Mexico. $850,000. Mystic Liveaboard cruiser, 2005. La Conner, [email protected]. is a rugged offshore raised pilothouse Washington. $275,000. Urgently need trawler built to the highest specifi cations to sell ASAP! Reduced from $399,000! by Kristen Yachts in Sidney, BC. She can Spacious, beautiful, loaded with systems, TRADE easily be handled by two people and impeccably maintained, comfortable, features a steel hull with a luxurious cherry classy. www.shipshapesystems.com/ interior. She was cruised extensively in MaverickForSale.html. Contact (360) 298- British Columbia for 5 years, including 1793 or [email protected]. two circumnavigations of Vancouver 30-FT AUGNAUGHT, 1995. Moss Land- Island, before making the passage from ing, CA. A practical, trailerable trimaran Canada to Mexico in 2010. Mystic has PARTNERSHIPS you can take home with you. Waiting the range to make ocean crossings and for you in Monterey Bay, California. Go is ready take her new owners anywhere C&C LANCER 30. Non-equity partner- to www.yachtsoffered.com and under in the world. 300hp John Deere, 16kW “search for a boat section” type in Listing ship. Sausalito. Excellent condition. Northern Lights, get-home, stabilizers, Wheel steering, self-furling jib, dodger, #1291771. No reasonable offer refused. hydraulic bow and stern thrusters. Furuno READY FOR A CHANGE? I need to $500 referral fee for when Zoom sells. 15hp inboard. Autopilot, fathometer, GPS and Simrad instruments. 6-man Viking 9” display, wind indicator, VHF. Exquisite go sailing! Donner Lake, California. Contact [email protected] or (831) liferaft, 2 dinghies, 2 outboards. See $199,000. Breathtaking view lot just min- 247-7939. interior: galley, stove/oven, head, AM/ website for full details: www.mystic53. FM/CD stereo. $150/month, $600 secu- utes to world class skiing, hiking, cycling, com. Email [email protected]. rity deposit. Contact (415) 459-7417 or and climbing. Looking for offshore world [email protected]. capable catamaran OR sailing yacht. For a detailed description and video visit: SAGA 409 PARTNERSHIP SFYC. Equity www.KensPropertiesOnline.com. (530) ownership in new Saga 409. Semi-custom 412-1068 or [email protected]. Tony Castro design built by Westerly Ma- rine. Vacufl ush, fl at screen TV, microwave, wine cellar. Electric halyard/mainsheet winch. Fast, easy to sail. Call or email for pics and specs. (415) 298-2080 or 33-FT SEAWIND 1000, 2002. Paradise [email protected]. Village, MX. $175,000. Seawind 1000 47-FT C&L SEA RANGER. Pilothouse 33’ catamaran in Puerto Vallarta - enjoy trawler, 1980. San Diego, Harbor Island. SOUTH OF THE BORDER the rest of the season! Substantial refi t $84,000. Fiberglass twin Ford Lehmans this year. New Code Zero on Facnor just refi t, new appliances, paint, fresh furler, Furling jib, main on Harken bat- survey and bottom with thru-hulls. All READY FOR A CHANGE? I NEED TO tcars, lazyjacks (easy to handle with specs and pictures view site. NICE boat! GO SAILING! 71 riverfront acres for sale 1-2 people). Asymmetrical in sock. New www.searanger47.com. (480) 948-7053 or trade. Located in Northern California’s Garmin 740s chartplotter w/chip (NA/ or [email protected]. Sierra Nevada wine country. Looking Mex), new Garmin HD Radar, 80% LED for offshore world capable catamaran lighting, New Rocna anchor, No leaks, or sailing yacht. Full Info and video at: bone dry. New 130w solar panels (x2), www.kenspropertiesonline.com. (530) 4 new AGM batteries (360 amp hours), 412-1068 or [email protected]. new MPPT BlueSky controller. Insulated canvas enclosure. Xantrex 2000 inverter, AB aluminum RIB, Yamaha 8hp. Excellent PLAN YOUR MEXICO GETAWAY NOW. WANTED and seaworthy cat! http://picasaweb. at the brand-new, gorgeous Cielo Y Mar google.com/100296617853657885709/ condos. Located in Punta Mita, 35 min- Seawind1000?authkey=Gv1sRgCM6Hr utes from Puerto Vallarta, available to SANTANA 2023C. In good condition, with dnvjZLQjwE&feat=email. Contact (415) rent from private owner. On the beach, 10 trailer. Please contact: (360) 379-4186 or [email protected]. 683-1990 or [email protected]. 37-FT HERSHINE, 1979. Emeryville. feet from the water, they offer spectacular $74,500. Your front-row seat to America’s views of ocean and mountains, the biggest infi nity pool in the area, an endless 45’-50’ AMERICAN MADE SAILBOAT. Cup! Cruise the Bay, dawdle on the Delta, Seeking a multi-cabin 45’-50’ American POWER & HOUSEBOATS cruise to Mexico, or liveaboard this roomy, beach, great surf breaks, great fi shing, tremendous views of whales, bird life made sailboat to replace our Islander 44 tri-cabin classic trawler with gobs of in- crewed charter boat out of Molokai. Have 17-FT BOSTON WHALER MONTAUK. terior upgrades and exterior canvas plus and the islands. While uncrowded and tranquil, just a fi ve-minute walk to several your boat maintained, operated, and se- 1975. Sausalito. $7,000. Looks and nifty electronics such as Garmin 4208 cure in Hawaii with time for personal use. runs great, 1995 Suzuki outboard 2 chart plotter, RM AP w/remote. Easy-on- waterfront restaurants. Choose from a spacious, beautifully furnished one or Info at website http://sailmauinui.com or stroke (unknown hours), center console, the wallet single 120 hp Lehman diesel. call Mike for details: (808) 870-1741. bottom painted, varnished teak, 21 A stern thruster makes even cross-wind three-bedroom unit, or an amazing two- gallon gas, canvas, rod holders, VHF, docking easy. Transferable slip with fi rst story penthouse with lovely shade trellis bilge pump, transferable slip, no trailer. month free rent. Email for full specs and on the top fl oor. See details at website. http://1975bostonwhaler.blogspot.com. photos: [email protected]. www.puntamitabeachfrontcondos.com. To reserve, call Dona de Mallorca (415) 599-5012.

MARINE SURVEYOR Get the Reliable, Powerful Wheel Pilot Sharpe Surveying & Consulting. SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor. Quiet & Dependable • Affordable • Built for Immersion Serving the San Francisco Bay and Delta. Easy Owner Installation • Low Power Consumption [email protected] • (510) 337-0706 831-687-0541 www.cptautopilot.com DOGGIEVENTURE – A doggie daycare on the go! Latitude 38 eBooks Morning, mid-day or afternoon sessions available in San Francisco FREE ✶ AVAILABLE WORLDWIDE ✶ Training • Boarding www.latitude38.com/ebooks.html www.doggieventure.com • (415) 314-7541

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 147 MAKE $$ WITH YOUR BOAT. at South GEAR TRAILERS Beach Harbor! Prime berths/great income. Must be no older than 10 years. ONLINE MARINE GARAGE SALE. Pri- 2007 ROAD KING $5,200/OBO. Heavy Call or email Drew at Spinnaker Sailing, vate party. Used, and some new, marine duty sailboat trailer for sale. Triple axle, for [email protected] or (415) items for sale. 2004 Zodiac Mark I Clas- boats 20-30 feet. GHW (of boat) 14,000 543-7333. sic, Switlik MD-3 with cradle, Centek lbs., up to 5 foot draught. Eight jack Gen-Sep, Wallas stove and oven, Garmin stands and surge brakes. New condition. PIER 39 36’ SLIP RENTAL. San Francis- GPSMap76, bronze pipe and hose fi t- (714) 305-1959 or (562) 899-0774. co. $35. This is a 36’x13.5’ slip located at tings. Lots more. www.eolais.com. Email Pier 39 Harbor. $35/night or $700/month. [email protected]. Email interested dates and I will reply CLUBS & MEMBERSHIPS ASAP. I will coordinate stay, and access JOB OPPORTUNITIES 74-FT MAST. Designed for catamaran. with the harbormaster. (916) 484-1031 Best offer. (415) 269-5165. SINGLE SKIPPERS AND CREW. ext: 3120 or [email protected]. BOAT CAPTAIN. San Francisco Bay and of all abilities are invited to join the Single THREE STRAND LINE. Close out sale. Delta. Local Vessel Assist has an opening Sailors Association. Membership includes for part/full time captain to work on the Spools and hanks of three strand line. daysailing, social events. Meetings held CREW Excellent for sheets, halyards and dock San Francisco Bay and Delta. Must be 2nd Thursday, Ballena Bay Yacht Club. USCG licensed with towing endorsement. lines for your classic yacht. Hempex rope Social 6:30pm; Meeting 7:30pm. Guests is from spun Polypropylene. Very hard to AHOY OCEAN ADVENTURERS. Seeking If interested, contact Philip Delano: (925) welcome. www.singlesailors.org. (510) one to two crew members to participate 382-4422 or [email protected]. tell apart from real hemp. An economical 239-SAIL or (510) 239-7245. alternative for running rigging on your in ‘Pacifi c Puddle Jump’ leaving Oahu May 18, to sail French Polynesia for 6-PAK CAPTAINS. & Sailing instructors. classic yacht. Hempex is gentle on the CLUB NAUTIQUE. Couples Passage- hands, is easy to splice and has an au- three months, stopping in Tahiti for the Spinnaker Sailing in SF, is hiring F/T or maker Membership. $5,450 (regular Heiva Festival celebration. Financial par- P/T aboard our fl eet of 22- to 90-ft sail- thentic natural look. Traditional line of the 6,800). Club Nautique is the best sailing 21st century for your classic yacht. Con- ticipation expected for the privilege of an ing yachts. Mid-week and weekend work club in the Bay Area with bases in Sau- adventure of a lifetime on a fi rst class 53’ available, fl exible schedule. Email resume tact Jim Linderman: (415) 827-6694, (415) salito and Alameda. They have more than 259-7874 or [email protected]. Amel Super Maramu sailing yacht. Please to [email protected] or call 35 sailboats (up to 50 feet in length) and respond to Capt. Billy Moore at (714) 827- Abby: (415) 543-7333. several power boats available for charter. 0229 or email [email protected] SWAN 59’ SAILS. $7,000/obo. North The CN Passagemaker couples member- Sails, older but great condition, can be with questions regarding participation. MARINE TECHNICIAN. Hirschfeld Yacht ship includes all US Sailing lessons up to is a Bay Area leader in the sales, repair, cut down. I-24.25M, J-7.06M, P21.80, Open Water passagemaking for 2 people E6.30. Racing (main): #1/#3 Kevlar. CAPTAINS, FIRST OFFICERS & CREW. service, installation, and customization (>$13,000 if purchased separately). Sail Rendezvous Charters is hiring ships crew of marine diesel engines and generators. Spinnakers: 1.5/.75/.5 oz, Guys/Sheets. on the Bay, out the Gate or bare-boat Cruising: #1/#3 Dacron, Storm. Take all and licensed masters to sail our 80 pas- We are looking for marine technicians to in the Caribbean. We have just bought a senger schooner, Bay Lady. Part time join our team. Minimum qualifi cations: 2+ or singles. Contact [email protected] 47-ft catamaran and no longer need our or (415) 209-8395. or full time. Excellent wages/benefi ts. years direct mechanical/electrical experi- membership. From CN = $6,790, from Mid-week and weekend work available, ence. Experience with gas and diesel us as transfer = $5,450! See at www. fl exible schedule! Want to enjoy your job? engines ranging from 10-300hp, inboards clubnautique.net/sailing/membership/ Building your sea time? Join this rapidly and outboards. Experience with manu- MISCELLANEOUS types.html. Contact Tony. (415) 235-3978 growing company! GREAT PEOPLE, fun facturers such as Mercruiser, Mercury, or [email protected]. company. Email resume, or call Abby. Honda, Yamaha, Beta Marine, Yanmar, [email protected] or (415) Perkins, Volvo, or Universal. Expertise 543-7333. in electrical systems with a solid under- BERTHS & SLIPS standing of electrical fundamentals. Clean background check. Must have a California PIER 39 SLIP. SF. $45,000. 45-ft, close JOBS WANTED driver’s license and car/truck. Must have in east side E dock. Includes reduced own tools and mobile tool kit/bag. Pre- covered parking rates, showers, and PROFESSIONAL COUPLE. Yacht skipper ferred qualifi cations: ABYC Certifi cations, laundry facilities. 22 years left on original and registered nurse available. Redwood manufacturer specifi c certifi cations, gas/ sublease. Great views of Coit Tower and City, California, USA. Sailboats, primarily diesel technology certifi cations, electrical Bay. Contact Curtis. (916) 969-8077 or SF Bay and coastal California, but also; certifi cations. For more information and to PAY TO PLAY SAILING SAUSALITO. [email protected]. apply, email: [email protected]. $100. Learn to sail or crew on a race Fiji, Australia, Mediterranean, Canaries. Experienced captain of large vessels boat. Beneteau 45f5 luxury race boat that SLIPS AVAILABLE. Aeolian Yacht Club, is ready to race around buoys, or in the from 48 to 65 feet. Perfect safety record. 20’/40’ @ $4.90 a foot. MUST be a club Navigation, rigging, engines, electron- ocean. We will be doing all the major remember. Join Aeolian now and bring in gattas and series this year. $100 per race. ics, cooking, cleaning, new equipment, your boat. Initiation fee is only $200. Call: outboards, sailing instruction, computer/ www.bayandoceanracing.com. Contact (510) 523-2586 or (510) 769-9205. Steve. (415) 847-0179 or (415) 457-4417 internet, childcare, healthcare, pet care, or [email protected]. maintenance, repair and troubleshooting PERFECT LOCATION PIER 39. 50’ Dock skills. Spanish/English speaking. Will F, Slip 22. San Francisco. $49,500. Slip consider relocating for the right boat strategically located for America’s Cup. and well paid jobs. Excellent references. Slips rarely come on market. Selling Contact (435) 216-6655 or (650) 257-7300 interest in sublease expiring in 2034. See or [email protected]. website for photos: www.pier39marina. com. Contact (310) 804-9136 or (310) 230-5203 or [email protected].

50-FT PRIME SLIP PIER 39, SF. $50,000. F-Dock, Slip 11, east side. Protected from wind. Close to gangway, showers and ROSSIGNOL 195CM SKIS. Tiburon marina ofﬁ ce. Covered parking across or Mill Valley. $20. Rossignol Progress street with special rates for owners. Skis. 195 cm long. Very good condition. Contact [email protected] or Contact [email protected], (415) 383- (559) 355-6572. 8200 ext:103 or (415) 250-9334.

MARINE ENGINE CO. South Paciﬁ c Itinerary: Hawaii, Tahiti, Cooks, Fiji Complete Engine Services • Gas & Diesel www.cruisingexpeditions.com 30 Years Experience • Reasonable Rates Adventure Sailing to Destinations beyond Imagination for Experienced to Tune-Ups • Oil Changes • Engine Rebuilding, etc. Novice Sailors that have enthusiasm for adventure; Sail, Scuba, Surf. 805-709-4567 (415) 332-0455 UNPLUG - EXPAND YOUR WORLD • Instruction / Itinerary / Package Details Afterguard Sailing Academy Need Crew? Latitude 38 Crew List A Boat to Crew on? The Affordable Way to ASA ✩ Visit our website and sign up as Skipper or Crew ✩ It’s Free ASA Basics to Ocean • Crew Intro to Cruising Prep Find out about our next Crew Party: Wed., March 7, at Golden Gate Yacht Club (510) 535-1954 • www.afterguard.net www.latitude38.com/crewlist/Crew.html or call (415) 383-8200

Page 148 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 BUSINESS FOR SALE DIESEL FUEL FILTERING Purify Diesel Fuel & Flush Tanks NEW & USED BOAT GEAR Process scrubs, polishes, removes algae, dirt, sludge, rust, water, and Open Tues.-Sat. 10 to 5 p.m. foreign particles from diesel fuel. Includes internal tank washdown. Save your injectors, costly engine repair and down time. Since 1989. Fully insured. Your berth or boat yard. (510) 521-6797 Fax: (510) 521-3309 www.dieselfuelfilterings.com

Marine Diesel Specialists MARINE BATTERIES AT YOUR SLIP!

Available at the following local marine chandleries and service distributors: ALAMEDA OAKLAND • Alameda Prop & Machine • Golden State Diesel • Fortman Marina Store • Outboard Motor Shop • The Boatyard at Grand Marina OAKLEY • Star Marine • Big Break Marina • Svendsen's Chandlery RICHMOND 30 years experience • Universal/Westerbeke dealers BENICIA • Swedish Marine Repairs/Tune-ups all models • Engine Surveys, Instruction • Cruising Seas Services • Bay Marine MARTINEZ SAUSALITO BAY MARINE DIESEL 510-435-8870 • Diablo Marine • Sausalito Marine [email protected] AMERICAN BATTERY • Hayward, CA • (510) 259-1150 ADVERTISERS' INDEX

AB Marine...... 34 Boat Yard at Doyle Sails...... 89 Helmut’s Marine Service..... 57 Marchal Sailmakers...... 119 Almar Marinas...... 43 Grand Marina, The...... 23 Dr. LED...... 42 Heritage Marine Insurance.97 Marina Bay Yacht Alpenglow Marine BottomSiders...... 125 Drake Marine...... 44 Heritage Yacht Sales...... 153 Harbor...... 29 Lights...... 125 Brisbane Marina...... 95 Easom Rigging...... 82 Hirschfeld Yachts...... 46 Marina de La Paz...... 141 American Battery...... 149 CYOA Yacht Charters...... 123 Emery Cove Yacht Hogin Sails...... 10 Marina El Cid...... 136 Antares Yachts...... 55 California Yacht Sales...... 152 Harbor...... 53 Hood Sails...... 21 Marina Mazatlan...... 39 BVI Yacht Charters...... 124 Casey’s Slip/Richard Emeryville Marina...... 96 Hotwire Enterprises...... 119 Marina Puesta del Sol...... 140 Wren, author...... 58 Bacon Sails & Marine Equipment Parts Sales...... 139 Hydrovane...... 140 Marina Village/Boat Fest... 31 Supplies...... 59 City Yachts...... 11 Essex Credit Corp...... 14 Interlux Yacht Finishes...... 37 Marine Lube...... 124 Ballenger Spars...... 83 Club Nautique...... 38 Farallone Yacht Sales...... 9 Iverson’s Design...... 48 Marine Outboard Barz Optics...... 97 Conch Charters...... 125 Company...... 16 Flying Cloud Yachts...... 151 JK3 Nautical Enterprises.... 27 Bay Marine Boatworks...... 35 Cover Craft...... 42 Marine Surveyors...... 111 Forespar...... 111 Kissinger Canvas...... 94 Bay Marine Diesel...... 149 Coyote Point Marina...... 77 Mariner’s General Fortman Marina...... 91 KKMI - Brokerage...... 153 Insurance...... 101 Berkeley Marine Cruise RO Water...... 91 GCM Rigging and KKMI - Boatyard...... 156 Maritime Institute...... 97 Center...... 25 Cruising Yachts...... 7 Composites...... 116 Kona Kai Marina...... 88 Marotta Yachts...... 154 Beta Marine Engines...... 46 Dart, The...... 111 Gentry’s Kona Marina..... 119 Lee Sails...... 125 Mast Mate...... 139 Blue Pelican ...... 149 Davis Instruments...... 106 Gianola Canvas Leopard Catamarans...... 49 Mathiesen Marine...... 110 Blue Water Yacht Defender Industries...... 46 Products...... 106 List Marine Enterprises...... 56 Insurance...... 6 McDermott Costa DeWitt Studio...... 119 Grand Marina...... 2 Boat Electric...... 40 Loch Lomond Marina...... 104 Insurance...... 94 Diesel Fuel Filtering...... 149 Hansen Rigging...... 105 Boat U.S. Insurance...... 107 Makela Boatworks...... 141 Harken...... 26 CONTINUED

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 149 FILL UP YOUR COCKPIT WITH RACE CREW at Latitude 38's Spring Crew List Party

Wednesday, March 7 Golden Gate Yacht Club

Details and free online crew list at www.latitude38.com

ADVERTISERS' INDEX – cont'd

McGinnis Insurance...... 50 Oxbow Canvas and Ryan’s marine...... 124 Southbound Solar...... 136 weatherguy.com...... 141 Minney’s Yacht Upholstery...... 54 Sail California...... 12, 13 Spectra Watermakers...... 110 Wedlock, Ramsay & Whiting . Surplus...... 138 Oyster Cove Marina...... 59 Sail Warehouse, The...... 141 Start Line Strategies...... 119 Marine Surveyors...... 138 Modern Sailing School & Pacific Crest Canvas...... 30 Sail-A-Small-Boat Day/ Stem to Stern...... 48 West Coast Multihulls...... 151 Club...... 19 Pacific Rigging...... 111 Richmond YC...... 15 Sterling Associates...... 124 West Marine...... 18, 20, 22 Multihull Company, The... 152 Paradise Village...... 33 Sailing Elsewhere/ Strictly Sail Pacific ...... 45 West Marine - Rigging...... 36 Napa Valley Marina...... 52 Matt Johnston, author... 139 Park Presidio Marine...... 90 Svendsen’s Boat Works...... 17 Westwind Precision New Era Yachts...... 151 Sailing The Bay...... 47 Details...... 51 Passage Yachts...... 5 Swedish Marine...... 54 New Zealand Non-Skid Sailrite Kits...... 8 Whale Point Marine Pineapple Sails...... 3 TMM Yacht Charters...... 123 Supply...... 24 of CA...... 56 Sal’s Inflatable Services...... 87 Punta Mita Beachfront Trident Funding...... 4 White, Chris Designs...... 124 Norpac Yachts...... 155 Condos...... 141 San Francisco Boat Twin Rivers Marine North Beach Marine Works...... 86 Wiest, Michael, Yacht Sales Quickline...... 53 Insurance...... 90 ...... 152 Canvas...... 51 San Juan Sailing...... 125 Raiatea Carenage Uli Boards...... 138 Yacht Racing Assoc...117, 118 North Direct Sails...... 58 Services...... 137 Scanmar International...... 59 Ullman Sails...... 110 Yachtfinders/Windseakers.15 North Sails...... 41 Ramp, The...... 138 Schoonmaker Point VacuWash...... 52 North U...... 83 Reliable Marine Marina...... 28 Vallejo Marina...... 91 Oakland Yacht Club...... 40 Electronics...... 57 Sea Frost...... 53 Variprop USA...... 44 Opequimar Marine Richardson Bay Seashine...... 55 Take Your Ventura Harbor Center...... 88 Marina...... 57 Seatech...... 125 Sweetheart Boatyard...... 83 Sailing Outboard Motor Shop...... 50 Riverside Marine South Beach Harbor...... 32 Washkowitz, Jared A., Feb.14! Owl Harbor Marina...... 55 Transport...... 124 South Beach Riggers...... 51 Maritime Law Offices.... 124

Page 150 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 Sail · BROKERS · Power 6400 Marina Drive www.yachtworld.com/fcyachts Phone (562) 594-9716 Long Beach, CA 90803 [email protected] Fax (562) 594-0710

53' LAPWORTH KETCH, '60 $120,000 43' TASWELL CUTTER, '89 $209,000 46' SWAN, '84 $229,000 42' CATALINA, '89 $99,000 NEW DODGER

REDUCED CRUISE EQUIP

36' CATALINA, '86 $39,500 34' CATALINA MkII, '01 $88,500 & '87 $39,500 28' CAL sloop, '86 $24,500 34' PACIFIC SEACRAFT, '88 $99,500

ONE OWNER new listing

36' ISLANDER SLOOP, '78 $41,500 44' HARDIN, new LP paint $99,000 36' ISLANDER SLOOP, '73 $15,000 37' CF CHOATE, '78 $39,900 APPROX. 100 listings on our Web site: www.yachtworld.com/fcyachts

FALL IN LOVE WITH A Late Model NEW SAILBOAT! Multihulls!

50' VALIANT, 2001 NEW! Ocean proven, ocean equipped world cruiser with impeccable credentials. An extraordinary yacht ready for your inspection. $535,000 50’ PROUT INTERNATIONAL 50-SW, 2011 47’ CATANA, 2001 The new generation commissioned 4/11. $995,000 Meticulously maintained, 2011 refit.$675,000

GORGEOUS BUFFED NEW LISTING GREAT VALUE

57' ALDEN YAWL, '31 32' FUJI, 1976 Must see, 44’ LAGOON 440, 2004 34’ GEMINI 105 Mc, 2010 Own a Master Mariners treasure. meticulously maintained and Only Lagoon 440 for sale on West Coast! $549,000 $159,000 $295,000 upgraded. Great value at $39,500 FAST 55' HALLMAN SLOOP, '82...... $165,000 REDUCED 51' FORMOSA, '79 Already there! Ready to cruise the Caribbean...... $150,000 50' GULFSTAR, '78 Spacious cruiser...... A great value at $89,000 36' ISLANDER, '76 Great value for West Coast 'Plastic Classic'..2 from $30,000 32' FUJI, '76 Ready to sail to Fiji right now...... $45,500

24’3” CORSAIR SPRINT 750, 2008 24’2” CORSAIR F-24 MkII, 2001 2007 Sportboat of the Year. $39,000 Fresh water boat. Major price reduction. $35,900

POWER & SAIL WCM ~ Your source for “Everything Multihull” 2021 Alaska Packer Pl., Grand Marina, Alameda, CA 94501 Sales/Brokerage: www.westcoastmultihulls.com [email protected] • [email protected] Charters/Sailing School: www.charter-catamaran.com (510) 523-5988 • www.newerayachts.com San Diego, CA • (619) 571-3513

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 151 www.multihullcompany.com Let the world's largest international catamaran and trimaran brokerage, The Multihull Company, assist you with the purchase or sale of a multihull anywhere in the world. The Multihull Company offers several distinct differences, from its pioneering buyer/broker program developed by founder Phillip Berman, himself a World Champion catamaran racer and author, to its international print advertisements that reach just the right buyers and sellers of catamarans, to its monthly newsletters that actually help 50' CATANA, 2008 46' DOLPHIN, 2006 50' CONTOUR, 2004 readers understand the market, the latest trends in sailing, Seattle, WA Half Moon Bay, CA Hawaii and even tackle the recent controversies about electric £700,000 $529,000 $335,000 engines, helm station placement, daggerboards versus keels, etc., to our powerful online presence and social media know- how and U.S. and European boat show participation. Visit us at www.multihullcompany.com and see why The Multihull Company is truly the choice for sailors around the world. We offer even the casual browser the means to understand the market with expert videos, 48' LOOPING 53' CATANA, 1994 58' PROFILE, 1988 articles and an extensive selection of catamarans and Sea of Cortez, Mexico Newport Beach, CA British Columbia trimarans listed for sale. $450,000 $449,000 $525,000 SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE FT. LAUDERDALE CHARLESTON FRANCE TURKEY TRINIDAD TORTOLA ST. MARTIN Office Phone: 215-508-2704 West Coast Office: 206-297-1151 email: [email protected]

30 Years in the Same Location Michael Wiest 30 Years of Great Service! Yacht Sales 75 Spectacular Listings QUALITY PRE-OWNED SAILBOATS 5 Knowledgeable Brokers 6 Catalinas Starting at Just $18,500 There's never been a better time to buy a sailboat!

44' ALDEN MkI CUTTER, 1990 • $295,000 44' NORDIC, 1980 • $179,000 Discover all the reasons why at Wonderful cruising yacht. Owners ready to move. Completely redone. Ready to go cruising! www.californiayachtsales.com PRICE

REDUCED! ––––– TWO FEATURED LISTINGS –––––

44' TARTAN, 1975 • $49,000 41' BENETEAU, 1999 • $109,000 Sparkman & Stephens design, new dodger. Three staterooms, watermaker, solar.

46' Beneteau 463, 1996 36' CATALINA MkII, 2003 This magnifcent boat has three separate Extremely low hours and loaded cabins and beautiful main salon. $139,900 with most every option. $118,500

38' HANS CHRISTIAN, 1979 • $97,500 37' HUNTER LEGEND, 1989 • $44,000 New Pathfinder diesel. Tough cruising yacht. Aft cabin queen berth. Great layout. www.mwiest.com (510) 601-5010 • Emeryville, CA (619) 295-9669 • www.californiayachtsales.com

Page 152 • Latitude 38 • February, 2012 List with us!

(510) 236-6633 • fax: (510) 231-2355 • [email protected] • www. kkmi.com 530 W. Cutting Blvd., Pt. Richmond, CA 94804

SOLD

hylas 46 (2002) Baltic 42 DP (1984) FRERS 50’ CUTTER (1947) German Frers, Sr., founder of the Powerful, go-fast cruising yacht for sailors with ambitious Since 1973, Baltic Yachts of Finland have been building Frers yacht design dynasty, designed and built this classic plans for comfortable offshore sailing. Set up for short- comfortable, safe, long distance cruisers with very good wooden cutter for his own personal use. Without regard to handed sailing, fully equipped with essentially every option. sailing and performance characteristics. Doug Peterson cost, she’s been restored and refit to better than new condi- Meticulously maintained. $398,000 design, superbly maintained, hull #29. Asking $149,000 tion and shows true to her sailing heritage. Asking $295,000

REDUCED

Hinckley Bermuda 40 MkII Yawl CB (1968) HYLAS 49 (2003) SWAN 391 (1984) A beautiful flag blue Ron Holland de- Bill Tripp design is highly regarded for classic beauty, su- S&S-designed world cruiser, thoughtfuly set up for sign which is very well equipped and has had teak decks, perb workmanship and quality details. New sails, dodger, offshore, shorthanded sailing, safety, comfort and low engine and standing rigging replaced, and new sails that intelligently updated. Excellent condition. Asking $139,000 maintenance. Lightly used. $475,000 have never been used. Many extras. Asking $129,000

Long Beach-Naples 866-569-2248 DEALERS FOR CATALINA Newport Beach 877-389-2248 SAILBOATS AND San Diego 760-402-3868 HANS CHRISTIAN SAILBOATS Wilmington 877-599-2248 Cell 310-995-9989

www.heritageyachts.com NEWPORT NEWPORT NEWPORT long beach

43' Hans Christian, '12 $595,000 65' MacGregor PH, '90 $199,000 54' Jeanneau DS, '06 $499,000 44' Hunter 456, '05 $225,000 LA HARBOR LA HARBOR LONG BEACH NEWPORT

44' Lafitte, '86 $149,900 42' Beneteau, '06 $229,000 42' Catalina, '91 $99,000 40' Panda Cutter, '82 $147,500 LONG BEACH NEWPORT LONG BEACH NEWPORT

40' Valiant, '75 $119,500 39' Jeanneau 39i, '08 $205,000 38' Elan 384, '07 $184,500 38' Catalina 385, '12

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 153 Marotta Yachts of Sausalito Brokers of Fine Sail and Motor Yachts 415-331-6200 • [email protected] • www.marottayachts.com

See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com

46' HYLAS, 2002 61' C&C, 1971 41' SCEPTRE CUTTER, 1985 48' ISLANDER SLOOP, 1985 Center cockpit cutter. Spectacular perfor- Beautifully laid out; reportedly Updated throughout, professionally Pacem has had two long-term owners mance cruiser. Beautifully maintained, more than $250,000 spent on maintained, transferable since new; shows beautifully today. top-of-the-line gear. her over the past 10 years. Sausalito Yacht Harbor slip. New sails. $398,000 $269,000 $185,000 $179,000

See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com

46' MORGAN 462, 1981 31' PACIFIC SEACRAFT CUTTER, 1989 53' ISLANDER, 1979 43' BENETEAU 430, 1992 This robust center cockpit cruiser Shows very nicely. Always professionally Over $100,000 spent over past Three stateroom, very clean, never has been thoroughly updated and maintained local boat with less than 400 hours several years on this vessel. Owner cruised or chartered. Transferable slip. is ready for Mexico. on Yanmar diesel. Radar, chartplotter, dodger, is motivated to sell IMMEDIATELY. Turn key package. $146,000 wheel. Transferable Sausalito YH slip. $89,000 $89,000 $89,000

See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com

REDUCED

38' CABO RICO CUTTER, 1977 37' BENETEAU 370, 1991 34' SABRE, 1984 45' STARRATT & JENKS, 1977 Exten-sively updated, clipper-bowed, Very popular model, never cruised or Fixed keel. Never cruised, freshwater boat Nice aft cockpit sloop with new Yanmar Crealock-designed beauty. chartered, just detailed, shows very nicely, with $40,000+ in improvements, diesel ($30,000 project). Great value New teak decks. competitive price. Sausalito Yacht Harbor slip. cruiser or liveaboard. $82,000 $63,500 $59,000 $59,000

See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com See at: www.marottayachts.com

30' BABA, 1982 41' TARTAN, 1975 32' ERICSON, 1989 36' CATALINA, 1986 Maintains crew for extended passages S&S designed U.S.-built performance Never cruised, and with $18,000 spent on One of the most popular 36-ft without sacrificing qualities of a great classic in fine shape, sails like a witch, her in last 18 months, Heyoka shows much sailboats ever built. Has had only two singlehander or weekender. very competitive price. newer than her age. owners, shows nicely. Motivated owner. $59,000 $55,000 $44,000 $39,000

at 100 Bay Street • Sausalito • California 94965 since 1946

NORPAC THE BOAT MARKET IS UP – TIME TO RE-BOAT! 'unda' YACHTS is for salE PLEASE SEE 1150 Brickyard Cove Rd., B9, Pt. Richmond, CA 94801 www.norpacyachts.com 40' CLASSIC DANISH KETCH by Aage Utzon, NA, built by Egon Nielsen…better provenance cannot be had. (510) 232-7200 • FAX (510) 232-7202 FOR MORE New rigging, great sails, new canvas & full cover, radar, low hrs. dsl., new cushions, copper riveted hull, recent email: [email protected] Mex. vet. A sweet Valkyrie under sail. Asking $44,950 LIKE NEW REDUCED! REDUCED!

46' LAKE UNION CLASSIC CRUISER, 1930. 48' GRAND BANKS Trawler LRC. Aft master S/R, 35' MERIDIAN 341 Barely used (less than 230 40' BRISTOL Sloop. Kokua III is loaded and in excellent Restored/rebuilt, excellent cond., new dsls, new genset, twin diesel, FB & PH helms, classic mahogany in hrs), she's ready for all the pleasures the Bay, Delta condition. Thoroughbred Ted Hood design built by Bristol rewired/reframed/refastened, radar, MORE! She could BEAUTIFUL condition. Onan, fully loaded galley, 3 heads, and Coasts have to offer, while maintaining luxury and Yachts, RI. Exquisite interior, comfort and seaworthiness. cruise to Seattle tomorrow. Premium covered Marin berth. shower & tub, inflatable dinghy w/motor, swim platform, performance expected from Meridian. Meticulously main- Radar, plotter, AIS, etc. Wheel, full dodger &MORE! This Dsl cabin heat. Great liveaboard/cruiser. Asking $69,995 steadying sails, radar, MORE! Asking $115,000 tained; she's an exceptional value. Asking $169,000 is the one you've been waiting for. Asking $69,900 offers Visit us at BEAUTIFUL & FRIENDLY Brickyard Cove Marina encouraged BARGAIN! SAIL 101' STEEL TUG with beautiful Sausalito berth. 45' S.F. BAY CHARTER BOAT w/established 100' MEGA SLOOP Custom Offshore Perfor- Great YTB, operational, fantastic opportunity, & unique business. Owner retiring. COI for 49 mance Cruiser. Comfort & luxury, spacious, loads of potential and value!..$44,950/obo passengers. America's Cup is coming – here's sleeps 17, loaded and near new. Great 100' Steel HIGH ENDURANCE Adventure/ your chance...... Asking 295,000 charter potential!!!...... Try 885,000 Charter Ship in Northern Gulf of Mex. Just 43' MATTHEWS, '65, diesel. A gem! 42' BERTRAM F/B MOTOR YACHT Aft master 30' HUNTER Sloop. She is in wonderful 58' ALDEN Boothbay Ketch. Center PH REPOSSESSED. Great vessel. A great oppor- Loaded and beautiful...... Asking 69,450 strm, twin helms, twin dsl, Onan, PH, aft enclosure. condition; super clean and super nice. Just a cockpit, aft S/R, dsl, heavy glass, world tunity! Reduced by more than $3/4 Million. 42' GRAND BANKS Twl. Aft cabin, F/B, Onan, MOTIVATED!...... Bank Now Asking 500,000 Absolutely loaded w/gear & features incl radar, GPS, really great boat that is equipped and has been cruiser. AWESOME!...... Asking 268,950 twin dsls, radar. Excellent. Reduced!..79,500 A/C & heat, washer/dryer & more! Beautiful & highly 85' CLASSIC TUG, '23 Vancouver Shipyard. cared for correctly. Yanmar diesel, wheel, roller 54' HERRESHOFF center cockpit ketch. F/G, 40' STEEL Fast-Utility vessel. Twin 671-N Recent CAT V-12 repower. Massive, beauti- desirable vessel in good condition. Asking $99,500 furling, plotting GPS and MORE! Harmony is a dsl, loaded bluewater cruiser..Asking 199,500 diesels, sand-blasted and epoxied in & out, ful and seaworthy. Perfect for Classic Tug ex-USCG, MUCH potential..... Asking 12,950 GREAT VALUE at…Asking $14,000 41' CT-41. Exquisite example of this revered Yacht...... 124,950/offers 36' SEA RAY 360 aft cabin fly bridge express. Garden design with many custom features. 62' ELCO 1926 CLASSIC MOTORYACHT. Twins. Nice & a GREAT VALUE. Asking 34,950 Fiberglass, big diesel, teak deck, cabin heat Twin dsl, gorgeous, elegant, comfortable. & fireplace, tiled shower & head, gorgeous GREAT LIVEABOARD CRUISER. Must see! 35' Roughwater, 1974. Fiberglass, interior, alum. spars, full galley, refrigeration REDUCED! Offers encouraged!.... 124,950 single diesel, completely outfitted, excellent and much MORE! MUST SEE..Asking 78,950 condition. Owner motivated!...... 39,500 50' STEPHENS 1928 Classic. Twin dsl, F/B, 38' FARALLON CLIPPER #14 by Stephens part. restored & operational...Asking 80,000 28' BAYLINER 2850 FLYBRIDGE SEDAN. New Bros. Classic Master Mariners winner in 48' DUTCH CANAL Barge. Beautiful & comfort- VOLVO/GM 300 hp V8, economical & 30+MPH outstanding condition...... Asking 45,000 able Sausalito liveaboard. Steel, diesel power. reported. Just completely refurbished & refitted 36' ISLANDER Sloop. Diesel, wheel, furling, MUST BE SEEN! REDUCED..Asking 178,000 to exceptional condition...... Asking 19,950 ISLANDER 36. Probably the most popular cruising SCHOONER by J.G. ALDEN (design #309). 43' self-tailers ++...... REDUCED! 29,950 45' STEPHENS 1929 classic. Beautiful 27' Farallon Pilothouse, '86. F/G, twin boat ever built! She's a good one: incomparable Alan LOD. Oh she just seems perfect. Cold-molded (original 35' MAGELLAN Sloop by American Marine. Gatsby-era motoryacht waiting to trans- 5L V8s, fast and seaworthy. Just Gurney design, dsl, dodger, roller furling, pulpits, double by Goudy & Stevens, 1930). TOTAL RESTORATION Diesel, covered liveaboard berth in Marin. port you back to the days of yachting detailed and very nice...... Asking 39,950 lifelines, pedestal wheel steering, double spreader rig, reported, modern diesel. Gorgeous below, virtually in the grand style...... Try 75,000 lines led aft for shorthanding, more. Asking $28,950 everything to modern standards. Asking $84,950 A BARGAIN!...... Asking 11,500 32' NANTUCKET Clipper Mk III Yawl. Diesel, fiberglass...... 14,950/obo encouragedoffers 30' GARY MULL Sloop THE SHADOW, by Easom Boat Works. Famous SF Bay racer completely PERFORMANCE rebuilt in near new or better condition. Diesel, excellent cold-molded construction. Ready to cruise/race and WIN!...... Asking $74,950 30' RAWSON Cutter. Low hours diesel. Diesel range, much recent upgrading. Berth 40' X-YACHTS X-119 HIGH-PERFORMANCE in Seattle's FRESH WATER Lake Washington sloop. Renowned Danish performance cruiser/ w/sea access. New batteries, some new racer. Loaded with gear & high tech sails. Prov- equipment still in box. Light/med Springtime cosmetics due. Unusually robust fiberglass 36' ALLIED PRINCESS Sloop. Dsl, wheel, inverter, full 30' CAPE DORY Cutter. Carl Alberg, NA design: One of en bluewater cruiser & race winner. $109,000 construction. Solid & reliable Pacific Northwest keel w/cutaway, famously seaworthy & dependable design, the finest smaller cruisers ever built. Famous for comfort, cruiser with decades of fun & adventure ahead fast & easy handling on & off the wind, exceptionally strong durability, seaworthiness and stout glass construction. Good of her. REDUCED!...... 13,950/offers solid glass construction. An excellent cruising boat w/very sail inventory, diesel, autopilot, full liffelines and pulpits, 30' RAWSON. Rare hard dodger model, diesel, comfortable layout. Outstanding value! Asking $29,950 enclosed head, wheel steering and MORE! Asking $27,950 reduced! furling, strong & more...... 24,850/obo 30' ARGONAUTA TRI: Folding/trailerable w/ trailer. Amazing fast offshore cruiser. Mexico today, up I-5 to Canada 2 days later or just sail anywhere. Health forces sale....29,450/obo reduced! OWNER RETIRING 27' CANADIAN SAILCRAFT SC-27. Just refit & 24' BRISTOL CUTTER. These sturdy 'pocket cruisers' refinished. Beautiful! Dsl, MORE!..... 17,950 have earned themselves an admirable bluewater reputation. Equipped right: 3-axle HD trailer, 4-stroke engine, vane 27' O'DAY 272 pocket cruiser. Furling, dodger, self-steering, F-10 heater, new dark green hull, new clean & MORE! Trailer avail..... 7,950/offers rigging, solar & MORE! Asking $13,950/offers 26' CONTESSA Sloop. High quality European pocket cruiser...... Asking 9,950

POWER reduced! 130' CAMCRAFT Passenger Ship. Certified 44' STEEL Canoe-stern cutter by Geo. Buhler/Fred Lagier & 49' CUSTOM Cold-Molded Ketch by Reliant. Beautiful Hankerson TRY OFFERS! for 33 passengers overnight. Booked for the Sons. John Deere diesel. Stout steel construction. Awesome design. Powerful and seaworthy bluewater cruiser in great shape. season. Virtual turnkey: Money and opportunity, bluewater cruiser built to go to sea and stay there. Radar, Built '91. Yanmar diesel, furling, self-tailers, aux. genset, full galley, working PNW...... 2,200,000 GPS, etc. Here's your world beater! Asking $62,950 full electronics and MORE! MUST BE SEEN. Asking $99,950

35' ERICSON MkII Sloop. Solid example of this great Ca l l (510) 232-7200 o r FREE (877) 444-5087 Bruce King design. Excellent cruiser, good Atomic 4, 13 Barient winches, wheel, RF, 2 spinns, good inventory, refrig, or Call Glenn Direct at (415) 637-1181 shower, double spreader rig & MORE! Asking $27,950 Fo r In f o r m at i o n a n d Ap p o i n t m e n t s

February, 2012 • Latitude 38 • Page 155