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Bespokethe Canadian Alliance of Film & Television Costume Arts & Design Spring 2018 10 No

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Bespokethe Canadian Alliance of Film & Television Costume Arts & Design Spring 2018 10 No CAFTCAD BESPOKETHE CANADIAN ALLIANCE OF FILM & TELEVISION COSTUME ARTS & DESIGN SPRING 2018 SPRING 10 NO. NO. ISSUE ISSUE THE “MAKERS” ISSUE MEET YOUR MAKERS TALKING TAILORING BREAKDOWN A LESSON IN TAMBOUR A day in the life of Exploring the anatomy of The Art of Destruction: Laurie Lemelin recalls her four industry a suit with Michael Ng Storytelling through first encounter with artisans.... of Garrison Bespoke... costume breakdown... tambour embroidery... A repository of goods to help complement your vision — whether it be: An interspecies love story A plucky orphan coming of age The aftermath of an assassination Exploring new worlds and civilizations Wiseacre congratulates all the award nominees. 777 Kipling Ave. Studio L 647.939.CROW | wiseacre.ca The Crow Knows BESPOKE no. 10 CONTENTS 04 Letters from your CAFTCAD President 18 Breakdown: The Art of Destruction & BeSpoke’s Editor-in-Chief Creating characters (by expertly destroying their clothing). 06 Meet your Makers: A day in the life of 20 A lesson in Tambour: Embroidery expert four local artisans. Laurie Lemelin explains this haute couture method of embroidery. 16 Talking Tailoring: A conversation that 22 Close Up: Catch up with your colleagues threads the needle on tailoring, in our newly re-vamped version of from start to finish. Who, What, Where... 3 BESPOKE no. 10 LETTER FROM in helping realize the dream. fresh features, concepts and plans for the future. Special thanks to our THE EDITOR The well-worn Nigerian proverb, “It new Creative Director Nicole Manek, takes a village” gains new life when CAFTCAD’s Operations and Communi- Spring arrives with our latest edition applied to the costume department. cations Manager, Lynsey Clark, and all of BeSpoke - our tenth in fact - which Appreciating the process of costume our contributors for their invaluable happens to coincide with the tenth design from mood-board to principal contribution to this magazine - for anniversary of CAFTCAD. and background costumes, means you, about you, and in celebration of knowing that so much of it can be at- this incredible community. There’s much to celebrate within our tributed to the collective work of the community. Our industry has matured immediate and extended family that Enjoy! and as a result we’ve seen a sizable makes up the costume designer’s team. increase in accolades, both for the projects themselves as well as for the It is this supporting cast of artisans talent required to create them. We are and costume professionals that help delighted that our members Luis bring a costume designer’s vision to Sequeira, Gersha Philips, Delphine life. They are there from start to finish White and Anne Dixon have been - laughing, crying, arguing, problem- nominated for prestigious international solving, dedicating huge amounts of awards this year - we salute their out- time and energy, suffering sleep dep- standing achievements! rivation, and eventually sharing in the joy of the final product. But for this, our Makers Issue, we de- The same is true of this newly re- cided to pull the curtain back and shine FOR SIMON RIVERA DE BRIAN PHOTO: PIMENTEL GEORGE a light on the different members of our designed book. Our editorial team has CAFTCAD community who also play an worked tirelessly to create an exciting LORETTA CHIN integral (yet less publicly visible role) new format for BeSpoke 10, with some Editor-in-Chief LETTER FROM Times have really changed in the film Because locally based artists are designing industry since CAFTCAD’s inception. more large-scale productions, local artisans THE PRESIDENT Toronto has been experiencing record have also been given more opportunities levels of production for several years to build amazing costumes for these films It’s incredible to think that CAFTCAD and local costume designers are and television shows. From science fiction began in 2006 as an assembly of cos- being hired for high-profile projects costumes in Star Trek to period costumes tumers wanting to join forces - regard- that in the past would have engaged in Anne with an E, the craftsmanship of our less of specific union affiliations - to solely imported designers. I’m thrilled makers is on display for the world to see. promote and celebrate the work we do to see that some of our members are here in Canada in film, television, and up for prestigious awards this year, Within the pages of this issue, you will find media. But it wasn’t until May 2, 2008, deservedly honouring their achieve- the important contributions of various mak- that we officially incorporated as a not- ments in costume design. ers, including stitchers, cutters, breakdown for-profit arts service organization. artists, leatherworkers, armourers, jewellery CAFTCAD’s first president, Luis Sequeira, makers, milliners, and breakdown artists. This May marks the beginning of our received the Costume Designers Guild This issue is an ode to these artisans that monumental 10th anniversary as Award for Excellence in Period Film, as are the creative force that breathes life into CAFTCAD. There is much to celebrate! well as nominations for a Critics Choice costume designers’ visions. This spring we launched our newly re- Award and a BAFTA Award. He is also designed mobile-friendly website, which the second Canadian costume designer features an events calendar that keeps in history to be nominated for Best you up-to-date with our expanding Achievement in Costume Design at The curriculum and events; we are raising Academy Awards for his work on The CAFTCAD’s public profile by par- Shape Of Water. Gersha Phillips is cos- ticipating in “Toronto’s Doors Open,” tume designing Star Trek: Discovery, showcasing the work of our members a project that has earned her a nomina- in a costume display at City Hall, and tion for a Costume Designers Guild planning an in-depth exhibit for later Award and a Canadian Screen Award in the fall. I am excited to announce (CSA). Delphine White has been nomi- our own CAFTCAD Costume Awards is nated for a Canadian Screen Award for in development to recognize the work The Kennedys After Camelot, and Anne of Canadian costumers - the inaugural Dixon has also been nominated for a ALEX KAVANAGH ceremony will be held spring 2019. CSA for Anne with an E. President of the Board 4 BESPOKE no. 10 BeSpoke magazine THE shape of WINNING Editor-in-Chief Loretta Chin Creative Director Nicole Manek Advertising Lynsey Clark Art Direction & Layout Erin Mccann Story & Copy Editor Nikita Stanley Researcher Lori-Anne Krausewitz Photography Billie Chiasson Printer Moveable Contributors: Loretta Chin Nicole Manek Lynsey Clark Alex Kavanagh Laurie Lemelin Contact: CAFTCAD The Canadian Alliance of Film & Television Costume Arts & Design STEFANIE KEENAN/ GETTY IMAGES ENTERTAINMENT/ GETTY IMAGES GETTY ENTERTAINMENT/ IMAGES GETTY KEENAN/ STEFANIE 65 Heward Ave Building C #223 CAFTCAD congratulates founding member and first president, Toronto Ontario Luis Sequeira for his incredible year of achievements. M4M 2T5 416 900 0955 Luis, we salute you for your passion and dedication www.caftcad.com to the craft of Costume Design. Your brilliance and generosity [email protected] of spirit to your team and all who know you is matchless. [email protected] Winner of the Costume Designers Guild Award for Excellence in Period Film – The Shape of Water (2018) Ten Nominations including: The Academy Awards Oscar - Best Achievement in Costume Design BAFTA Film Awards - Best Costume Design find us on social media: Critic’s Choice Award - Best Costume Design @caftcad 5 BESPOKE no. 10 YOUR MEET 6 BESPOKE no. 10 MAKERS A DAY IN THE LIFE OF FOUR INDUSTRY ARTISANS >> 7 BESPOKE no. 10 ADAM SMITH FX COSTUMER I LIKE TO THINK “I’VE PIONEERED SOME COSTUMING TECHNIQUES THAT HAVE NEVER BEEN EMPLOYED OUTSIDE OF A PROSTHETICS OR SFX SHOP. ” 8 BESPOKE no. 10 Describe a typical day when you are working on your craft. Typically (when I don’t have an early call-time for a show) I wake up 8:30 a.m. - 9:00 a.m., make some break- fast, check in with technology, then head to my workroom. I’ll spend a couple of hours there working on whatever is on the slate, whether it’s building inventory for weekend artisan shows or doing contract builds for a television show or movie. Then I’m off to the gym for about an hour or so. If I have errands to run in town, I’ll take care of those before returning home. Then it’s back to the workbench. I might be researching, designing a piece, patterning, building, or all of the above. Dinner is usually late, and I try not to work after dinner, but if I’m working on a pressing project, I’ll continue at my workbench afterwards. I try to cut it off at around 11pm. This routine often gets upended of course, but I try to roll with the punches as often as possible. What is the most challenging part of your job? Describe your dream project. Star Trek: Discovery - Working with The most challenging thing is coming designer Gersha Phillips. I wasn’t there up with a quote for the estimated Something big, something whimsical, long, but I like to think I set the stage cost of a project or item with minimal something that challenges me techni- for some amazing alien costumes by preliminary information. Everyone cally as well as creatively. Something initially setting up the alien mill-shop wants a quote on the spot, but I well planned so that there are no 15+ and later pioneering some costuming prefer time away from the client to hour workdays. Something I’d have to techniques that have never been em- consider the job at hand, material learn new skills for.
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