MARYLEBONE JOURNAL December 2017/JanuaryDecember 2018

MARYLEBONE JOURNAL December 2017/January 2018 Volume 13/06 marylebonejournal.com @MaryleboneJrnl Volume 13/06 Volume

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DM-MaryleboneJournal Ad No4.indd 1 18/9/17 10:53:59 Contents. 36

4. UP FRONT 46. CULTURE 4: Around the Estates 46: Q&A: Gavin Roberts, News and arrivals director of music at 8: Street stories St Marylebone Parish Church Weymouth Street 48: What’s on 10: Local lives 49: Picture from an exhibition The life and times of 52: Book reviews Helen Rose-Hampton 22 36 54. STYLE 12: Past presence 54: Q&A: Anne Blanchard, Michael Powell & SPANISH GOLD BEATLES FOR capsule collection designer at Emeric Pressburger A TOUR OF SALE Agnès b 14: My perfect day THE WALLACE HOW THE FAB 58: My favourites: Hasti Paul Costelloe describes his COLLECTION’S FOUR CAME TO Ghavami of By Malene Birger perfect day in Marylebone 59: Inside knowledge: winter BLOCKBUSTER OPEN—AND cosmetics SPANISH ART THEN RAPIDLY 60: In your element EXHIBITION CLOSE—A HIPPIE 62: Invisible ink 64: The gift guide BOUTIQUE 66. HOME 66: Q&A: Nikki Sher, head of 16 42 buying and creative at Toast 70: Home help: tasteful Christmas decorations 71: Tree decorations 72. FOOD 72: Q&A: Keiji Fuku, co-owner and head chef of Dinings 28 76: World of wine 76: Tools of the trade LA BELLA 77: Top nibbles: blue cheeses FIGURA 78: Food philosophy: BELLA FREUD Stephen Worrall, manager of ON SLOGANS, Cadenhead’s 80. HEALTH FAMILY AND THE 80: Q&A: Professor Alister Hart, MARYLEBONE consultant orthopaedic surgeon OF YESTERYEAR at The London Clinic 84: Peace of mind 86. SPACE 86: Two directions 28 90: Ask the experts 90: Property of the month 92: Q&A: Noel Lake-Johns of Prime Metro Properties 16 42 94. PROPERTY PURLS OF LIGHT WISDOM ENTERTAINMENT A VISIT TO DAME BARBARA PURL BAR TO WINDSOR LEARN THE ART ON CHRISTMAS, OF COCKTAIL CHARITY MAKING AND LIVING IN MARYLEBONE

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 1 24/11/2017 09:45 Marylebone Journal Editor’s letter. Web: marylebonejournal.com Twitter: @MaryleboneJrnl Instagram: marylebonejrnl Facebook: Marylebone Journal

Editor Mark Riddaway BAR FLY [email protected] MARK RIDDAWAY Deputy editors Viel Richardson [email protected] Clare Finney I was once the face of British cocktails. I’d just finished [email protected] Sub-editor a meeting in The Langham’s spectacular Artesian bar Ellie Costigan [email protected] one quiet weekday afternoon when a photographer Editorial desk approached saying she’d been asked to take pictures 020 7401 7297 Advertising sales for a major feature in the New York Times about how Donna Earrey 020 7401 2772 London had become the drinks capital of the world— [email protected] but there was hardly anyone in the bar and absolutely Publisher LSC Publishing no one drinking cocktails. Moved by her plight, I posed 13.2.1 The Leathermarket Weston Street with a drink, pretending to be a suave man with loads London SE1 3ER of friends just out of frame. Two weeks later, there I lscpublishing.com Contributers was on the front cover of the Dining Out supplement JP Aubin-Parvu, Joseph Fox, Sasha Garwood, Orlando Gili, of America’s greatest newspaper, brandishing Robert Giorgione, James Lyndsay, Alice Mann, Jackie Modlinger, an elaborate cocktail (rum, banana liqueur and Christopher L Proctor

20-year-old sherry, if I remember correctly) and Design and art direction Em-Project Limited looking, to the untrained eye, like a bit of a tool. [email protected] Distribution Letterbox Printing Ironically, back then there were few people in London Warwick Leading solicitors in London less likely to visit a cocktail bar. I wanted my drink Independent Publishing Awards Customer Magazine of the Year poured into a pint glass, not faffed around with by a Shortlisted, 2015 Writer of the Year Leading solictiors in London hipster with a muddler and a blow torch; I wanted it Winner 2013, Clare Finney Winner 2011, Viel Richardson Dispute Resolution | Family/Children Law | Employment Law | Commercial/Residential Property served in less than a minute, and I definitely wanted Editor of the Year Dispute Resolution | Family/Children Law | Employment Law | Commercial/Resodential Property Winner 2011, Mark Riddaway Education Law | Intellectual Property | Medical/Clinical Negligence | Immigration Law change from a tenner. Recently, though, I’ve started Designer of the Year Winner 2010, Mike Turner EducationMedia Law and | Intellectual Entertainment Property Law | |Medical/Clinical Personal Injury |Negligence Tax Advice | andImmigration Disputes Law to see the light. Marylebone has some fantastic bars— Owned and supported by Media and Entertainment Law | Personal Injury | Tax Advice and Disputes one of which, Purl, is the focus of our lead feature The Howard de Walden Estate Wills, Probate and Trusts | Employee Theft and Fraud 23 Queen Anne Street, W1G 9DL in this issue—and I’ve been quietly seduced by their 020 7580 3163 Wills, Probate17 Manchester and Trusts Street, | Employee London Theft W1U and 4DJ Fraud hdwe.co.uk sophistication and earnest drinks geekery. It may be [email protected] 17 Manchesterwww.bloomsbury-law.com Street, London W1U 4DJ time for me to be the face of British cocktails again. Supported by www.bloomsbury-law.com The Portman Estate 020 7998 7777 If any drinks brands, bars or massive US newspapers 40 Portman Square, W1H 6LT 020 7563 1400 020 7998 7777 need a cocktail model, I’m very much available. portmanestate.co.uk [email protected] @bloomsburylaw@bloomsburylawsolicitors @BloomsburyLaw17@bloomsburylaw @BloomsburyLawSolicitors@BloomsburyLaw17 @BloomsburyLaw;Solicitors@bloomsburylawsolicitors 2—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 2 23/11/2017 16:40 Leading solicitors in London Leading solictiors in London Dispute Resolution | Family/Children Law | Employment Law | Commercial/Residential Property Dispute Resolution | Family/Children Law | Employment Law | Commercial/Resodential Property Education Law | Intellectual Property | Medical/Clinical Negligence | Immigration Law EducationMedia Law and | Intellectual Entertainment Property Law | |Medical/Clinical Personal Injury |Negligence Tax Advice | andImmigration Disputes Law Media andWills, Entertainment Probate and Law Trusts | Personal | Employee Injury | TaxTheft Advice and Fraud and Disputes Wills, Probate17 Manchester and Trusts Street, | Employee London Theft W1U and 4DJ Fraud 17 Manchesterwww.bloomsbury-law.com Street, London W1U 4DJ www.bloomsbury-law.com020 7998 7777 020 7998 7777

@bloomsburylaw@bloomsburylawsolicitors @BloomsburyLaw17@bloomsburylaw @BloomsburyLawSolicitors@BloomsburyLaw17 @BloomsburyLaw;Solicitors@bloomsburylawsolicitors 2—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 3 23/11/2017 16:40 Around the Estates.

NEWS

Bill Moore, chief executive years have been fascinating of The Portman Estate, will and rewarding,” says Bill. be stepping down in May “I’ve thoroughly enjoyed 2018. Bill joined the Estate working with the talented in 2011 after a distinguished people at The Portman career in the Army, and has Estate and with the wider had a significant impact on business community. I felt the business. His successor it is right for me to free up will be Oliver Fenn-Smith, my time to take on further who in his 12 years as the strategic leadership roles Estate’s property director and most importantly for has been responsible for a the Estate’s leadership team raft of successful strategic to be given the opportunity property deals. “The last six of progression.” The Portman Estate and As the sun set on 15th November, The The Howard de Walden Estate are joining Marylebone Christmas Lights event forces to organise the drew a sizeable crowd to Marylebone High Marylebone Food Street to watch local resident and national Festival. This celebration treasure Dame Barbara Windsor light the of the amazing food and drink on offer across the place up in every way possible. The event, neighbourhood will take which was organised by The Howard place 8th-18th March and de Walden Estate, raised money for the will feature many of the Home School Support charity. area’s finest restaurants and retailers. For more info, visit See pp42-44 marylebonefoodfestival.com

Marylebone’s retailers have The Paddington Street The Portman Estate has featured prominently in Gardens Christmas created an illustrated art the Slow Food London tree will have its lights walk, designed to guide awards, voted for by the switched on at 3:30pm on art-lovers on a whistle-stop thousands of London-based 7th December, at a free tour of Marylebone’s public members of the Slow Food event featuring music from art, sculptures, statues and movement. The Ginger Pig St Vincent’s RC Primary notable residents. The and Gail’s were named as School choir, local vocalist walk should take no longer runners-up in the butcher Lili Phillips and the Orion than an hour to complete. and baker categories, while Orchestra brass players. A beautiful map with a La Fromagerie featured The event is hosted by wealth of information on its in second place in both Druce Estate Agents, many cultural attractions the cheesemonger and W1 Developments and can be downloaded at delicatessen lists. Westminster City Council. portmanestate.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 4 23/11/2017 16:40

The Old Marylebone Transport for London has After 19 years of sterling The Howard de Walden Town Hall, one of London’s published its proposal for service as chairman of The Estate has made a donation most famous wedding the transformation of Howard de Walden Estate, to St Marylebone CE venues, is reopening in Oxford Street, a plan that Peter Barton is retiring School’s Elizabeth Phillips January following a major is likely to have a significant in December. He will be Wider Opportunities refurbishment. The hall, impact on Marylebone. succeeded by Sir William Fund. Named after which has been closed since The public consultation is Proby, former chairman of the school’s former 2013, has been completely open until 17th December, the National Trust. Lord headteacher, the fund helps transformed, with some so there is still time for your Kakkar, a life peer and pupils from disadvantaged contemporary design added opinions to be heard. Visit professor of surgery, will backgrounds participate in alongside the 1920 period consultations.tfl.gov.uk be bringing his medical a wide range of enrichment features. The exterior and expertise to the Estate as trips and activities that they famous stone lions have a newly appointed non- would otherwise struggle been carefully restored. executive director. to access.

Old Marylebone Town Hall

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 5 23/11/2017 16:40 Around the Estates.

ARRIVALS

Amir and Limor Chen, the couple behind the highly successful Shoreditch venture Strut & Cluck, are opening their second restaurant at 56-58 Marylebone Lane. Delamina will offer a menu of seasonal dishes inspired by eastern Mediterranean home cooking, using local ingredients and ethically sourced produce. The Priory Wellness Much-loved Centre has opened at 41 Harley Street. The centre’s Marylebone florist team have expertise in Jane Packer has treating a wide variety of moved from New mental health conditions, Cavendish Street to including depression, stress, anxiety and 55-57 George Street. addictions. Specialist support is also available for young people and those impacted by fertility issues, pregnancy and A Unique International parenthood. Dinny Hall, one of Lexihealth, a medical Cutting-edge With a bauble-festooned School in Marylebone London’s most respected concierge service, has wreath surrounding the jewellery designers, is arrived in the Harley Street Turkish fashion storefront, it’s difficult to opening a new store at 66 Medical Area. Its service, brand NU is miss the new festive pop up Marylebone Lane. Working which covers all aspects opening its UK shop from beauty brand from her studio in Notting of healthcare, provides flagship store at Clarins on Marylebone Hill, the designer has spent expert assistance at every High Street. Step inside, the past three decades stage of a patient’s journey: 15 New Cavendish and you’ll be greeted creating inventive but appointments, referrals, Street. with an equally gorgeous understated pieces using screenings, second array of skincare products genuine gemstones and opinions, diagnosis, which are available for you the highest quality gold personalised treatments to personalise to create and silver. and, where needed, travel a perfect gift for a loved and accommodation. one—or yourself.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 6 23/11/2017 16:40 A Unique International School in Marylebone

mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 7 23/11/2017 16:40 Up front. Street began to emerge as centres of medicine, some of that character spilled over onto Weymouth Street, with private physicians and surgeons setting up practices. The controversial Mesmeric Infirmary transferred from Fitzroy Square to 36 Weymouth Street in 1854, promoting hypnotism as an alternative to anaesthetics, but it didn’t last for long. The old Georgian housing stock started to disappear from around 1880, as the original leases expired and the Howard de Walden Estate pursued a programme of piecemeal redevelopment. The resulting streetscape is a mix of homes, medical properties and commercial buildings in a variety of neoclassical styles, anchored close to the high street by some vast domestic blocks. One significant change 1770s and early eighties, Blue plaques came with the development STREET after the completion of the None. Perhaps the most of ‘bijou’ houses at some STORIES grander sweeps of Harley notable presence here was of the junctions with WEYMOUTH Street and Portland Place the great scientist, Michael perpendicular streets. STREET brought a need for cross Faraday, who as a young Previously, these joins had streets to join them together. man in the early 1800s been marked by the blank Its Georgian houses, few lived with his parents at return walls of the houses of which remain, were number 18. and stables on the north- modest compared to the south streets and mews. In area’s more impressive Landmark building 1886, the architect Barrow townhouses. Uniform A rare domestic design Emanuel won permission in style and generally by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, from the Estate to replace of three or four storeys, best known as the creator the old stable block on the they were flat-fronted in of Battersea Power Station corner of Harley Street stock brick, with very little and the red telephone with a small house facing As with almost everything dressing: respectable but box, 22 Weymouth Street Weymouth Street. This in Britain, Marylebone’s unremarkable. was far more low-key sparked a rash of similar streets have long been Weymouth Street’s and compact than most developments, including defined by a rigid class residents were mainly of his architectural work, remarkable examples of system: the posh streets professionals or—slightly but no less distinctive. bijou houses commissioned surround the garden more glamorously—artistic With its modernism by Bovis Ltd in the 1930s squares, or else run north to types, including portraitist off-set by a classic, from some of the country’s south; the bourgeois streets Mary Grace, engraver symmetrical simplicity, it top architects, including run east to west. William Say, playwright and proved less divisive than George Grey Wornum Weymouth Street is a journalist Edward Topham some other 20th century (39 Weymouth Street) solidly middle-class citizen. and his lover, the actress interventions, and is and Sir Giles Gilbert Scott Like Devonshire Street one Mary Wells. widely regarded as one of (22 Weymouth Street). block to the north, it was In the 19th century, as the area’s jewels. Bourgeois, yes—but brought into being in the Harley Street and Wimpole beautiful.

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MEND HEARTS WITH Carols, CHAIN OF HOPE THIS CHRISTMAS Come and celebrate with us at our Carol Concert at the St Marylebone Parish Church NW1 5LT Readings & on Thursday, 14th December at 6:30pm. Special guests include Penny Lancaster and Sir Rod Stewart. Music for Tickets are £20 for adults and £10 for a child (under 16). Christmas Please visit: www.chainofhope.org/carols

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The biggest pleasure of being an actor is the creative process. You create this world, dive into it, live in it

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 10 23/11/2017 16:40 when the next job’s going itself is just beautiful, the LOCAL to come through the door, northern audiences were LIVES which is kind of exciting, wonderful and the company HELEN ROSE-HAMPTON but also terrifying. I worked for, Less is More I’m not an extrovert at Productions, is fantastic. Helen Rose-Hampton is a professional all. I’m quite shy and that’s They try as much as possible actor and has just appeared in Richard III probably why I act, because to give northern actors the at The Cockpit theatre on Gateforth Street. I have an opportunity work. I have a base up there to not be that way—to because my uncle lives in She lives on Wyndham Place with her be somebody different. Hartlepool, so I got the part husband and their two dogs When I’m on the stage, of Ruth. I find Noël Coward WORDS: JP AUBIN-PARVU it’s a chance to show off, plays quite difficult, but PORTRAIT: ORLANDO GILI but under the guise of a loved it all the same. That character. Standing up on was definitely a highlight. the stage as myself would I have just appeared in be horrendous. Public Richard III at The Cockpit, speaking, anything like that, which was a brilliant I get very nervous about. production. I played Queen Back in about 2007, I Elizabeth, the sister-in-law went to New York to do of Richard III. I even got to I was born in the edge of the stage. I was a summer school at The fight in it, having trained Wolverhampton, but over the moon about that. American Academy of in stage combat before grew up in Shropshire. I wanted to go to drama Dramatic Arts. Off the we started rehearsals, so My family did relocate school, but my parents back of that, I managed that was exciting. It’s a very to Newquay, but only for couldn’t afford to send to get the role of Lady fresh and edgy production a few years—there was a me and I wasn’t able to Macbeth in a very small with a fantastic director sudden influx of stag and get funding from the production. It was part of a and a dynamic production hen parties, and I guess government. But for the Shakespeare festival and we company, Front Foot that’s not ideal when you’re last three years, I have won the award for the best Theatre. The Cockpit is trying to bring up three received acting training production. I remember such a versatile space. It little girls, so we moved from Dominic Kelly, sitting on the stage during a allows you to have a lot of back to Shropshire. who is part of the Salon break, just thinking, “Wow! freedom in what you do I always wanted to be Collective. They run This is pretty cool.” It was a with your character. an actor. There have never weekly classes and acting tiny little stage in a theatre It was very handy been any actors in my training at The Cockpit off Broadway, in the middle working so close to home. family so it’s a complete theatre in Marylebone of nowhere. But it was a Being able to just saunter mystery as to why. There and have changed the way moment I’ll never forget, up to the theatre without are childhood photos I approach acting. I owe sitting there on a New York having to rely on public of my sister in her little them such a lot. stage and breathing it all in. transport was an absolute nurse’s outfit—and she’s For me, the biggest Doing Blithe Spirit dream. If only every job a nurse now—along pleasure of being an actor earlier this year at the was like that. I was very with ones of me dancing is the creative process— Middlesbrough Theatre lucky indeed. around and playing the going from a blank page, was another fantastic My husband and I have fool. So I guess it was set to suddenly being able experience. The theatre lived in Marylebone for in stone. to go in-depth into this about two and a half years. At the age of seven I character, who is usually We have two dogs, so that appeared in a musical far away from who you are. keeps us out in Regent’s about the bible called You create this world, dive Park and Hyde Park. We Kids’ Praise, which was for into it, live in it. do a lot of walking and I my nan’s local Methodist And the pains—oh, also go to the gym at the church. And I loved every where do I start? The Seymour Leisure Centre. minute of it. I remember many, many, many My husband is a member being desperate to have auditions you go to and of Home House, so we more attention, to not just then don’t hear back from. spend a lot of time there, be part of the chorus, so Never being able to book and we also love going to I was really pleased when a holiday, because the the Everyman Cinema on they picked me out as the minute you do a job comes Baker Street. little girl who Jesus would in. That always, always We have just discovered pick up and walk with to happens. Not knowing Il Blandford’s on Chiltern

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 11 23/11/2017 16:40 Up front. PAST PRESENCE his foil. After working together MICHAEL POWELL twice more as director and & EMERIC screenwriter—Contraband PRESSBURGER (1940) and 49th Parallel (1941), the latter of which won Pressburger an Oscar—the pair decided to turn their partnership into something more formal. On their next film, One of Our Aircraft Is Missing (1942), they Street, a fantastic family The 20th century’s great crucibles took joint responsibility for every run Italian. It’s rather of cinematic creativity leap easily aspect of the production, and for like going into an Italian to mind: 1930s Hollywood, the first time shared the credit family’s front room and 1960s Paris, 1970s New York. “written, produced and directed having dinner—it’s just Wartime Marylebone is by Michael Powell and Emeric so lovely and relaxed. probably not on the list—but Pressburger”. That’s our favourite QUOTE there’s a case to be made that Over the next decade, Powell place at the moment. it should be, thanks to a half- and Pressburger’s production I also sew. I had a ELIZABETH decade burst of brilliance unit, The Archers, would create couple of years out of BOWEN from a pair of filmmakers at a body of work as serious in the acting business Novelist, lived at the peak of their powers. its intent and virtuosic in its when we lived in the 1-7 Clarence Terrace In 1925, Michael Powell, execution as any in the history of south of France. My the son of a Kentish hop British film, right in the heart of husband was working farmer, abandoned a short- Marylebone. Between 1942 and and I didn’t have lived career in banking to 1947, their business was based at anything to do other start from the bottom in Dorset House, Gloucester Place. than be a housewife, the film industry, working Here, the pair conjured up a run so I taught myself to Intimacies as a studio hand, stills of genuine masterpieces: The sew—curtains, dresses, between photographer and bit-part Life and Death of Colonel Blimp you name it. It’s almost actor. His first directing jobs (1943), A Matter of Life and mathematical, so it’s women often were on ‘quota quickies’— Death (1946), Black Narcissus completely different to go backwards, low-cost films dashed out to (1947), and The Red Shoes acting, trying to work meet the quota of British- (1948), all four of which feature in out all the dimensions beginning in made pictures that cinemas the BFI’s list of the top 100 British and everything. I’m not revelations were forced by law to show. films. A distribution deal with very good at maths, so Between 1931 and 1936, he the powerful Rank Organisation it takes me a lot longer and ending in knocked off a staggering 23 gave them commercial reach, than it probably would small talk films, the quality of which but without creative interference take anybody else. But I often belied the speed of (theoretically at least), and the love doing it. their production. In 1937, results were spectacular. Most of my family are Powell wrote and directed his They grafted for hours on still up in Shropshire, so first truly personal work, The end in apartment number 120 my husband and I go up Edge of the World, the beauty of this vast 1930s modernist there as often as possible. of which brought him to the block, threatened by air raids, It’s just so beautiful and we attention of the great film surrounded by none of the have a little house on the producer Alexander Korda. trappings of Tinseltown glamour. Shropshire Hills. We try to Powell’s first film for Korda According to Powell, they never escape London as much as was a wartime thriller, The Spy bothered to properly furnish we can. in Black. With the production their spartan three-room flat. Work wise I have hampered by a verbose script, After falling out with Rank nothing on the horizon at a Hungarian-Jewish émigré, over the cost and slow schedule the moment. Christmas is Emeric Pressburger, who had of The Red Shoes, Powell and upon us and that’s a very arrived in London in 1935 after Pressburger left both their quiet time of the year. But fleeing from Nazi Germany, was distribution deal and their then again, I could get a brought in to lick it into shape. Marylebone flat, and the magic phone call this afternoon Powell and Pressburger had began to fade. For those five that completely changes very different backgrounds and years, though, Dorset House was everything—so who contrasting temperaments, but as close to the epicentre of the knows? It’s exciting. on that film each man found film world as it’s ever likely to be.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 13 23/11/2017 16:40 Up front.

Clockwise from top left: MY Il Blandford’s, Daunt Books, PERFECT Daylesford DAY PAUL COSTELLOE The Gloucester Place-based designer describes his perfect Marylebone day

Breakfast Coffee break extent, but I do think it’s Eating in My father and mother, no I like to escape to The fantastic. I also like the The things I love most are matter what happened, Koppel Project on Baker magazine shop opposite good olive oil and salad. would have breakfast Street to get some peace the Chiltern Firehouse— I really enjoy making a together before my father from the office, to sketch they have a great selection, homemade salad with went to work, and I like to and to have a coffee. and their little sweet an oil, mustard and keep that habit with my counter reminds me of vinegar dressing. Our wife. However, if we are in Culture sweetshops when I was a friends the Bamfords have Marylebone for breakfast, We have a good kid. Something about a cafe and shop called we do go to that lovely relationship with the the smell. Daylesford, and they do bakery Bonne Bouche. Graham Hunter Gallery. a good job, actually. It Graham is a lovely man— Pre-dinner drinks feels authentic. We go in A spot of fresh air he has just commissioned The Barley Mow on Dorset sometimes and buy nice I have been known to some more fashion Street. They do a great tomatoes, new potatoes stop off in Hyde Park for paintings, actually. I pint, it’s well priced, the or fresh cream. a brainstorm or a snooze do really like the little staff are lovely, and they in my deckchair, as I cycle galleries tucked away on have those great snugs. Anything else? through there on my way Chiltern Street too. I’ve I’m a Carling man really, It would be nice to have into work or back home. bought some great pottery but they have a good something that brought from A&D. selection of craft beers. you together with other A new outfit people working in I am a designer, so I make Shopping Eating out Marylebone, like a little the worst shopper. I hate It would have to be Il Blandford’s serves the badge, or a lunch every ALL DAY DINING buying clothes for myself. Daunt Books. They host best Italian food in the month in one of the I’ll get a good coat—I wonderful talks from whole of London—and garden squares. But other BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER | AFTERNOON TEA | PRIVATE DINING bought a nice one from artists and writers. I’m I have lived in Italy. The than that, it’s perfect—or Rosselini on Baker Street— usually hovering in the second best is around almost perfect. I suppose, but other than that I will back, looking for presents, the corner from there: if it was totally perfect, wear my own clothes. so I’m a voyeur to some Anacapri. it would be boring.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 14 23/11/2017 16:41 ALL DAY DINING BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER | AFTERNOON TEA | PRIVATE DINING

mj_magazine_volume13_06_upfront.indd 15 23/11/2017 16:41 Features.

PURLS OF WISDOM

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 16 23/11/2017 16:41 Scarred by a misjudged attempt at home mixology, the Journal heads to Purl, one of Marylebone’s most acclaimed cocktail bars, to learn the art of creating the perfect drink WORDS: CLARE FINNEY PURLS IMAGES: ORLANDO GILI OF WISDOM

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 17 23/11/2017 16:41 Features. ensconced, we pull up a bar stool: Purls of wisdom me, Alice and Ricky, who has bought Alice the masterclass as part of her birthday present. “People come to the class for different reasons,” Francesco, our host, begins. “I think in the last four or five years people have become far more interested in this industry.” Some just come for a good time; others to learn more about a craft that 20 or 30 years ago was confined to gaudy hotels and exclusive bars, but has since become fundamental to London’s culture.

Purl is a serious cocktail bar. “The people who opened this place— Bryan Pietersen, Tristan Stephenson and Matt Whiley—are for me legends of the cocktail world,” says Francesco I was 14 when I made my first “They have a great reputation.” cocktail. Left to our own devices Though drinks are expertly made one Christmas, my cousin and with the finest spirits you’ve never I uncovered a dusty selection of heard of, the spirit in which they liqueur bottles at the back of our are served is one of wry irreverence, grandfather’s cellar, complete with with Big Ben moneyboxes, ceramic a tarnished silver shaker, a rusting toadstools and jerry cans used strainer and a long-handled spoon. as vessels in place of glasses for We set to work enthusiastically, all but the most classic cocktails. indiscriminately mixing some crusty “Everywhere is serving cocktails these old advocaat with Archers peach days, so if you are going to be a proper schnapps, brandy, Cointreau and bar it’s good to have an identity. Purl tonic water that had lost its fizz circa is inspired by 1920s speakeasies, and 1956. Two hours later we emerged, people would not have been drinking giggling, with all the poise of out of glasses during prohibition. newborn giraffes and all the makings Alcohol was illegal, so they would of a crippling hangover. Two and a have disguised it.” half hours later, we were violently sick. Francesco is here to teach us. I’ve not made a cocktail since. “Teach is a big word,” he says, When I’m out, I’ll indulge in the “because this is the sort of world in odd negroni, but that Christmas which you are always learning. The moscato wine, infused with some still haunts me. So, it was with aim here is really to introduce to it spice and some sugar. Technically, mixed feelings that I embarked different ingredients, and different it’s already a cocktail, if you on a cocktail masterclass at techniques of building a drink.” consider a cocktail as three or more Marylebone’s speakeasy, Purl. I’d But he is clearly determined to have ingredients. We were drinking it neat been here before, of course: their fun along the way. “So! Here I am in Italy.” Indeed, one of the reasons house negronis are second to none, talking, and you guys are drinking cocktails took so long to catch on blending three different vermouths nothing!” he exclaims. “We’ll have there was because vermouth is in with three different bitters, which three drinks in total this afternoon: itself a complex enough drink for are cooked together on a slow heat one I’ll make, one you’ll make, and an aperitif. before being bottled. But my illicit one you can choose from the menu.” Still, what happens in America teenage dabbling was still the closest To my relief, the starter is rarely stays in America, and it I’d got to understanding the dark none other than my old familiar. wasn’t long before Italians sought arts of mixology. “The negroni is an evolution,” says to “catch the American flavour,” Like my grandfather’s cellar, Purl Francesco: a collision between Italy’s smiles Francesco. Gaspare Campari, is underground—a drink-and-you’d- aperitivo tradition and the cocktail a pioneering bar owner in Milan, miss-it sort of place on Blandford culture that sprang up in America in was purportedly the first person Street, next to a sandwich shop—but the late 19th century. “Vermouth is to mix his own eponymous bitters otherwise, it’s another world. Once a very complex product: 75 per cent with vermouth di Torino, or sweet

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 18 23/11/2017 16:41 vermouth, to make negroni’s quality and shape of the ice assume triumvirate of Campari, Plymouth forerunner, the milano-torino. far greater importance. “The gin and sweet vermouth, allowing “Soda water was American. We dilution of water and the chilling of the flavours to muddle and unfold. didn’t have carbonisation in Italy— the drink is so important to its taste.” A sliver of orange peel, stroked so when Gaspare came to add soda Really? we ask in unison. “Really. I’ll around the outside of the glass water to his recipe, he renamed it show you,” Francesco smiles, seizing (“so when you have finished, you still americano.” he continues. Sixty-odd a hammer, and spinning round to a have the scent on your hands—my years later, it was Count Camillo large trough filled with what we now special touch”) then plopped inside Negroni who legend has it asked his realise is a solid block of ice, crystal- the drink finishes it off. Alice is local bartender to replace the soda clear and glinting in the candlelight. delighted. “Oh, that is good. That water with gin, creating the negroni. “If the ice is too small or has holes in, is very, very good,” she whistles. it will break up when we shake and We could sit here for the rest of the “This a strong drink,” says Francesco, make the drink watery.” afternoon sipping negronis and swirling the jewel-coloured liquors He attacks this in-house iceberg listening to Francesco—but as every around a jug with a long spoon with gusto: hammering, chipping good teacher knows, the best way to and thereby demonstrating one of and carving until finally turning learn is not just to drink, but to do. the simpler mixology techniques: triumphantly back toward us, a He fetches aprons: hardwearing, stirring. It’s not just about the wrist large, smooth piece of icy shrapnel pocketed and cool in a way only action: with a drink this strong, the in his hand. This he stirs with the subterranean speakeasy bar aprons

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 19 23/11/2017 16:41 falernum is slightly different, Features. reflecting the personality of the Purls of wisdom Growing up in the Italian bartender,” says Francesco. Anyone countryside led to Francesco can follow a recipe, he continues, endlessly experimenting with the “but this kind of job is about more fruits, roots and herbs that grew Exquisite Dining. than how you make a drink”. around his home. He made his own “I’ve kind of been in this industry ice, suspecting even then that ice Memorable Experiences. since I was 11,” he explains— made with purified water would throwing a forgiving light on my serve the drink better than cubes own initiation in the cellar all made from tap water those years ago. “I worked in my family’s bar, in the kitchen and stockroom.” Growing up in the Italian countryside led to endless experimenting with the fruits, roots and herbs that grew around his home. He made his own ice, suspecting even then that ice made with purified water would serve the drink better than cubes made from could be cool. Pulling mine on I tap water. “It’s easy enough to make go to give it the full OutKast Hey Ya! feel strangely empowered, like a in a freezer box,” he says, bashing treatment—but he pulls me up short. mad scientist in pursuit of the elixir some more of the iceberg for me, “Two hands! You don’t want the top of eternal youth. Mercifully, for “but it will take you a while to boil the flying off.” This is a serious work out, Francesco and my fellow classmates, water, cool it down, and freeze it all I think, my arms aching and brow the only elixir I’ll be conjuring the way through.” sweating after a meagre 10 seconds. up today is a tequila sour cocktail: Bartenders are usually on the slim a potent mix, but not one that While this is a length to which I side, and it’s easy to see why if they’re promises to prolong life to any great cannot possibly imagine myself doing this for six hours every day. degree. Handing me the shaker— going to at home, it offers a hint of At long last, we’re done. Straining a two-piece Boston shaker, as the relentless perfectionism that the ice away, I give it one last ‘dry’ opposed to the sealed three-piece underpins Purl. Francesco and the shake before pouring the foaming shaker which “we can’t use because team are just coming to the end of velvet into the glass. “Hold it high to we need to introduce air to egg- compiling their new menu: a process keep the foam,” Francesco instructs. based drinks”—Francesco runs us that takes them two months, twice “Tap it to get the last of it out.” The through the ingredients: lime juice, every year. They buy new vessels, stew creamy liquid crests the top of the sugar syrup, tequila, falernum, new bitters and infusions, and dream glass but, remarkably, stops just short cherry liqueur and Miraculous up innovative approaches to serving of spilling out. A swirl of lemon zest, Foamer, an egg white substitute. drinks. While we’re here, someone wiped around the glass and squeezed “It’s vegan-friendly and less rich is served a cocktail with a balloon once over the surface is then placed than egg white, but it still produces above it. Dry ice, lightbulbs and on top to complete the picture: it creamy foam.” candleholders also feature. Though looks like a real, sour-based drink. “Sour based cocktails are great the team here all love and admire No one taste is dominant—this must drinks to play with,” he continues, the classics, they are driven by “a be the elusive balance Francesco as I measure 35ml of quality tequila competition with yourself to keep on spoke of—but melds together in The Langham, London: your home from home. into the shaker. “Seventy-five per coming up with new ideas”. one smooth, sour wave of tongue- cent of the drink is sorted—egg Meanwhile, I’m sticking resolutely tingling, hair-raising, cockle- Morning coffee or afternoon tea at Palm Court. A hearty lunch white, lemon or lime and sugar— to the recipe. Adding the requisite warming nectar. I’m inspired. I’m so you just choose the spirit, and the lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white pleasantly merry. And when, another at The Wigmore. Chuan Body + Soul to revive your spirits liqueur.” The maraschino cherry substitute to the liqueur and tequila, Francesco-made cocktail later, I liqueur takes me by surprise, being I stir the mix together and taste it resurface, I feel I can finally put that and fi nally a night cap at Artesian. a) clear and b) genuinely palatable— “to quality check,” grins Francesco. teenage subterranean ‘mixology’ a far cry from the glacé cherry puree “When making drinks, balance is so experience well and truly to bed. The perfect day. I’d envisaged. I add some of that, important between acidity, bitterness There is, I now understand, far more followed by the mysterious falernum: and sweet.” It tastes… strong, I to mixing drinks than just mixing Purl’s own infusion of rum, lime, cough, through a teaspoon of sour drinks. 1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA sugar, peel, herbs and spices, which, tequila. “Yes, don’t worry,” he assures PURL LONDON T 44 (0) 20 7636 1000 Alice points out, you could “happily me. “It will dilute a bit with the ice 50-54 Blandford Street, W1U 7HX drink a whole glass of”. “Everyone’s as we shake.” Closing the shaker, I purl-london.com langhamhotels.com/london

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.inddLangham Marylebone Journal Ad Nov2017.indd 21 1 23/11/201715/11/2017 16:4117:12 The Tears of St Peter (1580-89) Features. Domenikos Theotokopoulos ‘El Greco’ The Bowes Museum

SPA N ISH G LD The Wallace Collection’s landmark El GrecoO to Goya exhibition casts new light on some of the great masterpieces of Spanish painting. The Journal takes a tour WORDS: CLARE FINNEY

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 23 23/11/2017 16:41 The Martyrdom of St Andrew Tobias Restoring his Father’s Sight Features. (1616-24) (1652) Spanish gold Luis Tristán de Escamilla Antonio Pereda y Salgado The Bowes Museum The Bowes Museum Portrait of Juan Antonio Meléndez Valdés (1797) Francisco Jose de Goya The Bowes Museum

Between you and me, I’ve always that shows a new aspect of a planet we of the eponymous collectors. While found Velázquez’s The Lady with thought we knew and understood. both John Bowes and Richard Wallace a Fan the most underwhelming of “Neither the Wallace nor the were of aristocratic descent, they the Wallace Collection’s highlights. Bowes”—the latter being the art were also both, to use the vernacular, Sure, it’s accurate enough: the collection from which this exhibition bastards. But when it comes to the art lady is discernibly a lady, the fan hails—“are known for their Spanish in question, it seems their collections recognisably a fan—but I could never art. They are better known for their are more identifiable by their quite see the point. “Give me Brizo French and English paintings,” says differences than their kinship. the dog, or a still life hare any day,” I’d Isabelle. For the Wallace Collection, Though bequeathed to the nation think, as I sauntered past on my way to the exhibition represents the in 1897 by Sir Richard Wallace’s the Dutch masters. But a tour around chance to attract new visitors and widow, the art at Hertford House the Wallace’s latest exhibition, El remind regulars of the existence and in Manchester Square was, at the Greco to Goya: Spanish Masterpieces significance of its works by Velázquez start, a private collection. “Richard from The Bowes Museum, throws and Murillo. For the Bowes Museum, Wallace and the fourth Marquess fresh perspective not just on this lady, situated up in windswept County concentrated on getting the best but all of the collection’s Spanish art. Durham, it is like a postcard, “a little pictures they could, at any price My guide for the day is Isabelle pocket of the Bowes in London, which really. They were outbidding the Kent, a young curator whose will hopefully encourage people to Rothschilds at auctions,” Isabelle extraordinary knowledge makes a visit them in the north-east”. marvels. John Bowes and his wife mockery of the fact that she’s only On the surface of it, these Joséphine were quite different. Theirs recently joined the institution, collections share many was a commitment to collecting for fresh from university. “I remember characteristics—the Bowes has even educational purposes: to elevate their watching a Goya documentary when been dubbed the ‘Wallace of the small market town of Barnard Castle I was five and seeing those works north’ in art circles. They are both to a seat of artistic learning. They at the Prado,” she says, by way of housed in grand manors, and the bought their El Grecos and Goyas not explanation. “My love of Spanish Bowes, like the Wallace, is the product because they were in high demand, art just went on from there.” She’s of a 17th century family’s passion for but because they weren’t. “They were excited by this exhibition in the way procuring great art. One similarity is completely unfashionable. At the an astrophysicist might be by a probe particularly striking: the illegitimacy time they were painted, they were too

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 24 23/11/2017 16:41 ‘out there’, and by the time the Bowes Jesus three times and breaks down, the opportunity to see this version were collecting, not enough time had weeping in penitence. With his eyes of the Tears of St Peter lit in splendid passed for them to be re-appreciated,” raised to the sky, his hands wringing isolation, free of the glass that Isabelle explains. together, St Peter is everything you’d normally covers it. “When you are in a Indeed, the only reason the Bowes expect from a religious artwork—but museum with hundreds of paintings family got them in the first place was there is far more to get out of this on a single wall, you cannot light it in thanks to a dealer who liaised between piece than Christian imagery. this way,” she says, “and you have to them and the widow of an important “El Greco depicts this scene a protect them.” For this exhibition, the art collector. “The Conde de Quinto in number of times, but this is without Wallace has been given permission to Paris had built up his own private art doubt the first that he did. It is so remove the glass covering, unleashing collection. After he died, the Countess worked and controlled.” In the the vivid colours and tactile strokes of de Quinto needed money, so she sold foreground, a sprig of ivy is as El Greco’s brushwork. them through Benjamin Gogué, a naturalistic as something you’d find Look out for his signature, splayed dealer whom she trusted. Perhaps too in a Van Ruisdael landscape; in the audaciously across the side of the much,” Isabelle smiles. She has seen background, Mary Magdalene is painting: “People just didn’t sign the Bowes archive, and it’s clear from depicted hurrying toward Peter from their work like that in this period, Gogué’s letters who got the better deal. Christ’s empty tomb in what Isabelle particularly in Spain where artists describes as a “loose, abstract, almost were still very much thought of as Gogué didn’t suggest works were cubist” sort of way. “Of course, I don’t craftsmen.” Born and raised in fashionable. But he did say they were want to be proto-modernist,” Isabelle Crete, before moving to Spain via worth saving—and it is as well he did. corrects herself quickly—though I Italy in later life, El Greco was proud The first painting to catch your eye can’t say I’d picked up on it. “It’s just of his Greek heritage, and signed as you step into the intimate space interesting, because Picasso loved his name in the most prominent of the gallery is, Isabelle tells me, the works of El Greco, and Cézanne position, large and flamboyant. “probably the best example of El made a copy of his paintings, so there Behind us, the rest of the collection Greco’s work in the UK.” Its subject was clearly a connection there.” beckons eagerly, starting with two is the tears of St Peter: the disciple, Particularly exciting for Isabelle— Goya paintings, equally accomplished upon hearing the sound of the and indeed, for anyone who likes and taken not from the bible, but cock’s crow, realises he has denied seeing the texture of oil paint—is from all-too-real life. “This was

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 25 23/11/2017 16:41 Features. subtle portrait. The reddish cheeks world to revel in these works, and the Spanish gold and the furrowed brow show this is not indulgent intimacy of this exhibition. an idealised version,” she continues. Yet while here, visitors would do well “It gets to the heart of who he was as a to spend some time rediscovering person—and as a friend.” those remarkable Spanish paintings The two works complement each the Wallace Collection has always had other perfectly. The cause and the on its walls. crusader; the companion and the “The Bowes has a selection of art conversation he would have had with not represented by the Wallace, and we Goya during that period. In theory, have an area of Spanish art the Bowes these are the only Goyas to be found hasn’t collected.” Those looking to in the exhibition. In practice, the remind themselves of the Wallace’s collaboration has provided ample Merillos and Velasquezes in light of the opportunity for certain works to be El Greco to Goya exhibition can follow reattributed and reassessed. “Next a trail of red signs, discreetly tacked month we are having a symposium to the signature claret-coloured walls. at the Wallace Collection and a lot There are the portraits of the Prince of Spanish art scholars are coming Baltasar Carlos, pre-school age and to talk about this exhibition and adorably comical in his royal finery various aspects of it.” As part of that, or miniature suits of armour, riding another one that Bowes had to be the Wallace Collection’s director, a pony. There are Murillo’s scenes of convinced by,” says Isabelle. “Goya Dr Xavier Bray, will argue for the religious events, with their entrancing wasn’t really popular at the time, inclusion of a ‘new’ Goya, on display fusion of grace, and emotional but Gogué persuaded them.” The in this gallery. “One of the great realism. And of course, there’s painting, executed when the artist was things about this exhibition is that it The Lady with a Fan, staring blankly recovering from a life-threatening gives us the chance to consider the out from a grey background and illness in the 1790s, is of the inside paintings without glass, in isolation, clinging defensively onto her shawl. of a Spanish prison: pitch black, but on their own terms.” For years, she is thought to have for the circle of light shed by an arch. Dr Bray will suggest the been a member of Velázquez’s family: Within that, a group of prisoners reattribution to Goya of a portrait of he must have been roping them into Photo Credit: Patrick Allen / operaomnia.co.uk are eerily visible, each in varying a woman, previously thought to have sitting for him for practice, after all. states of dishevelment. “It looks like been painted by one of his followers. Yet as their historical knowledge has Goya’s depicting the different stages Another scholar will do the same for broadened, researchers increasingly of prison life: one man is naked and A Levitation of St Frances, a religious believe her to be Marie de Rohan, bound, one is in rags, and this man piece currently believed to be have the French duchess of Chevreuse. seems to have just arrived, still in his been produced by a workshop of “She was a very manipulative figure in fine garments,” observes Isabelle. It’s Jusepe de Ribera, rather than by the French court—good friends with easy to miss the man slumped in the Ribera himself. “The white face, the queen. But when she fell out with background, pale and skeletal, but he with its red, bloodshot eyes,” admires the queen she had to flee France for must have been there longest. “See, Isabelle, “it doesn’t feel like something Madrid, and the protection of Playing on our strengths to he is old and his beard is long and a workshop would do. It is so intense, Philip IV,” says Isabelle. “We know straggly.” Small, dark, painted on tin so beautifully realised.” Part of the Velázquez painted her, from a letter in place of canvas, it feels like a window excitement of this collaboration is of the time, but the portrait has never deliver first-class performance. into Goya’s disease-weary mind. the possibility of reappraising a few been identified.” Could this be the Mercifully, the subject of the overlooked paintings and giving their fugitive Duchess of Chevreuse? neighbouring work offers some creators the credit they deserve. We’ll probably never know for EFG is delighted to partner with Benjamin Grosvenor. consolation: a prison reformer whom certain. But the thought of it is Goya painted after his illness. By this Thanks in no small part to Gogué, the intriguing—and that is the beauty point, Goya was part of a group of Bowes Museum has one of the largest of this collaboration between these thinkers who met regularly to discuss collections of Spanish paintings in the two great galleries. An interesting art and the need for social justice. Juan country, spanning three centuries. fact, a shift in perspective, a talented Antonio Meléndez Valdés was one The 13 works which are at the Wallace curator—even the removal of a glass such thinker, a politician appointed to now are a mere taster, chosen for pane—and those paintings you once efginternational.com reform the incarceration system while their diversity (“you have the drama, sallied past can appear in a fresh and

at the height of his government career. still lives and more intimate scenes beguiling new light. Contact: Andrew Imlay, Managing Director – Private Banking | [email protected] | +44 20 7412 3897

“He was one of the most important represented”) and for the various EFG International’s global private banking network operates in around 40 locations worldwide, including Zurich, Geneva, Lugano, London, Madrid, Milan, Monaco, Luxembourg, Hong Kong, Singapore, Miami, Bogotá and Montevideo. politicians in Madrid at the time,” questions they arouse. Over the EL GRECO TO GOYA: SPANISH MASTERPIECES In the United Kingdom, EFG Private Bank Limited’s principal place of business and registered office is located at Leconfield House, Curzon Street, London W1J 5JB, T + 44 20 7491 9111. EFG Private Bank Limited is authorised by the FROM THE BOWES MUSEUM Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. EFG Private Bank Limited is a member of the London Stock Exchange. Registered in England and Wales as Isabelle tells me. Goya captured not months of its opening, art scholars Until 7th January 2018 no. 2321802. EFG Private Bank Ltd is a subsidiary of EFG International. the politician, but the person. “It’s a and lovers will come from around the wallacecollection.org

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 26 23/11/2017 16:41 2017_11_10_EFG_Marylebone Journal_BG_200x250mm+3_ENG.indd 1 10.11.17 18:37 Photo Credit: Patrick Allen / operaomnia.co.uk

Playing on our strengths to deliver first-class performance. EFG is delighted to partner with Benjamin Grosvenor.

efginternational.com

Contact: Andrew Imlay, Managing Director – Private Banking | [email protected] | +44 20 7412 3897

EFG International’s global private banking network operates in around 40 locations worldwide, including Zurich, Geneva, Lugano, London, Madrid, Milan, Monaco, Luxembourg, Hong Kong, Singapore, Miami, Bogotá and Montevideo. In the United Kingdom, EFG Private Bank Limited’s principal place of business and registered office is located at Leconfield House, Curzon Street, London W1J 5JB, T + 44 20 7491 9111. EFG Private Bank Limited is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. EFG Private Bank Limited is a member of the London Stock Exchange. Registered in England and Wales as no. 2321802. EFG Private Bank Ltd is a subsidiary of EFG International.

2017_11_10_EFG_Marylebonemj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd Journal_BG_200x250mm+3_ENG.indd 27 1 23/11/201710.11.17 18:3716:41 Features.

Bella Freud talks to the Journal about Vivienne Westwood, slogan knitwear and the Marylebone of yesteryear WORDS: JACKIE MODLINGER PORTRAIT: MARY MCCARTNEY FASHION IMAGES: DAVID ABRAHAMS La SHOP IMAGES: JAMES LYNDSAY bella figura

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 28 23/11/2017 16:41 La bella figura

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 29 23/11/2017 16:41 Features. The pre-collection (transitional brown corduroy A-line skirt just La bella figura between winter/spring) has just below the knee. She always looked landed, and very rock ’n’ royalty it great, my mum. She would wear is too, the latter being one of the vintage stuff as well, 1940s dresses key themes, with cashmere, merino and a brown velvet coat that I was wool, lurex knits sporting such always trying to borrow off her, and slogans as ‘Lord’, ‘King of Kings’ and when she was really young, she wore ‘Royalty’, as well as crown motifs. Biba. I remember she had really nice The tuxedo, her strong suit, is boots. She had so little money that translated into classic black velvet or she would just buy the occasional That creativity would be in her ivory barathea for a ‘le smoking’ thing,” recalls Bella. DNA was a given. Bella Freud is, three-piece pants suit, aptly named Today, Bella is wearing, well, Bella: after all, a scion of the dynastic ‘Bianca’ (after Bianca Jagger, who wore a double-breasted black and white Freud family—daughter of painter a white one when she married Mick). checked Harris tweed coat with Lucian, great-granddaughter of “I love tuxedos. I think they’re just sheepskin collar, over her favourite distinguished Viennese psychiatrist great, because they have that day-for- black schoolboy-style trousers, Sigmund, her mother and sister night thing, a bit like menswear—you paired with navy satin contrast-piped both acclaimed writers. Bella’s can dress it right up depending on shirt. We sit on her red corduroy sofa, eponymous store on Chiltern Street the shirt or tie, for formal, you put which strikes an immediate chord, is testament to her talent. Opened a turtleneck with it and the whole being one of her favourite fabrics. two years ago, the décor—reclaimed atmosphere is completely changed. “I love it—there’s just something so stone floors, bespoke brass rails and It becomes more Miles Davis. I love stylish about it. When someone’s opulent velvet carpet—is the work of those nuances of tailoring. A pale wearing a corduroy jacket, you Retrouvius architect Maria Speake, blue suit and it becomes really kind think ‘ooh, there’s something going the same creative hand behind of spivvy and David Bowie-ish,” on there… and suddenly it’s all Bella’s Ladbroke Grove flat, where enthuses Bella. come back into fashion. I love it for she lives with son Jimmy and border I learn that the whippet-head logo interiors as well—a corduroy sofa’s terrier Joey. used since the brand’s inception is really nice and cool.” The objective: “I wanted to create the work of Bella’s father, Lucien. Born in London, Bella and an intimate shopping experience “My dad drew it as my logo. It’s his younger sister Esther (a novelist) with an apartment-like feeling—a whippet, Pluto,” Bella tells me. Pluto were educated at the Rudolf bit like stepping into a friend’s for lives on, appearing on signature Steiner school in Sussex. Bella left a cup of tea and leaving with her knits, t-shirts, cushions, wrapping school at 16 “and worked in shops, favourite jumper.” The designer paper and carrier bags, sometimes just wasted my life, had a teenage may be high-profile—aficionados writ large as on the store’s vitrine, rebellion, then got back on track,” include Alexa Chung, Kate Moss other times a barely-there miniature. she reflects. The girls spent part of (who once famously exchanged a their childhood in Morocco enjoying pair of split trousers for a pink pair She has arrived fresh from a a somewhat Bohemian existence— here), Laura Bailey and chanteuse trip to Paris, whippet-thin, her the inspiration for Esther’s book Alison Mosshart—but she loves to finely-chiselled face with its high Hideous Kinky made into a film cock a snook at The Establishment. cheekbones and defined eyebrows starring Kate Winslet. “Upmarket irreverence” is how bearing a striking resemblance to Over to Bella, who takes up her Bella defines her signature style, her mother Bernardine Coverley— story. with its whimsical statement knits, a multi-talented gardener and writer slogan tees and edgy tailoring, the who taught further education and Was your childhood really as latter honed in Rome at fashion dance, and was the subject of one nomadic as portrayed in the film? and tailoring schools. A child of the of Lucien’s masterpieces, painted The film was a story, so some of it 1970s, her favourite inscriptions when Bernardine, then aged 17, was wasn’t. We lived in a very kind of include ‘1970’, ‘Ginsberg is God’ and pregnant with Bella. Pregnant Girl hand-to-mouth way and some of it ‘Je t’aime Jane’ (as in Birkin). was sold in February 2016 for a cool was great and some of it less so. The Bella’s designs are collectable, £16 million. film was really good actually—a lot aspirational pieces in simple shapes, Was her mum a stylish dresser? better than I expected and obviously often androgynous, translated “I have just dim recollections. She having Kate Winslet in it was into luxe fabrics. She has a way wasn’t wildly interested in fashion, amazing. She’s such a good actor. of embracing trends while still but she was very beautiful and remaining true to herself, as just looked good. She would wear How did you get on with your sister exemplified by her use of corduroy, ‘hippie’ things. I used to make Esther when you were growing up? night-for-day pyjama jackets, ruffled clothes for her when I was about I’ve got lots of half-siblings, too, but shirts and her take on the tuxedo. 14—I remember making her a Esther was the person I spent the

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 31 23/11/2017 16:42 Features. La bella figura

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 32 23/11/2017 16:42 I met Vivienne Westwood through the punk rock scene and one day asked her for a Saturday job. I’d just cut my waist-length hair into a crop and she said, “I like your haircut, so yes, you can have a job.”

Bella Freud

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Features. Where do you draw inspiration for was looking at another shop La bella figura your signature sweaters? in Chiltern Street when this came It could be anywhere. A lot through up and when I saw the place, reading. If I’m watching a film or I completely fell for it. just talking to someone, some words will just jump out as workable, so I’m Are you enjoying being in the area? always on the lookout. I am trying I don’t know what it is about not to have a cute slogan. I don’t want Marylebone, but I like being here. Visit us at 66 Portland Place to to tell anyone what to do or be like, It’s very cosy. I like going to Fischer’s, a message… though I hope they’ll I often have breakfast there—lunch most time with. She was very close have a resonance somewhere along and dinner, too, but breakfast at fi nd the perfect Christmas gift. to me and continues to be so—she’s the line. I take trouble thinking Fischer’s with one of my sisters is one of the most important people about them, so I hope they have that my favourite. I really love Hardy’s in my life. It’s an incredible luxury reverberation. restaurant, the Monocle Café, the The best architecture, design and construction books from around the world to have a great friendship with your Firehouse is a fun place to have a sister, because it’s just so deep. What are your favourite fabrics meeting. Also, there’s a lovely shop and colours? called Content Beauty Wellbeing on Were you interested in clothes as a I love crepe. I think wool, corduroy, Bulstrode Street. The girl who started child? crepe and denim; they’ve just got it used to be my pattern-cutter. I liked uniforms and boys’ clothes. to be the best. I like black, but I am I suppose because probably boys really into colour, like acid yellow. How do you maintain a work/ life seemed to have more power, so on I love red and green. I go through balance? some level I liked the idea of their phases of bright pink and orange— I used to be very workaholic, in terms clothes giving me a kind of freedom. orange was always a favourite, I just of working late and not having any They suit me, boyish clothes. It’s love it. It’s a wonderful colour and it beginning or end. Now I get a lot funny how some women look more suits me. Pale blue, too, l really like. more done, but actually when my son feminine and pretty in a boyish was born—he’s nearly 17 now—it piece. I think that’s what suits me. Do you see people buying a total made me become more organised. wardrobe of just Bella Freud I didn’t want to be a mother who It was a stint with Vivienne pieces? wasn’t ever around, where something Sir Edwin Lutyens: Westwood that kickstarted your Part of doing just a knitwear brand else is always a priority. The Arts and Craft Houses fashion career. How did this come for a while is that the knit is the David Cole £65.00 Charles Rennie Mackintosh about? connection between suiting, really, How do you spend your down time? and the Art of the Four I met her through the punk rock so it’s easy to just wear a jumper with I love walking, reading, having Roger Billcliffe £40.00 scene and one day asked her for a whatever else you have, but I like to a good snooze in the afternoon. Saturday job. I’d just cut my waist- offer the whole thing if someone Sometimes, even if I’m really tired, Survey of London: South-East length hair into a crop and she said, wants it. I like the idea it doesn’t take going to an exhibition makes me feel “I like your haircut, so yes, you can over the person, but that they bring calm and relaxed. I travel mostly for Marylebone: Volumes 51& 52 have a job.” That’s how I started. it to life. work—I’ve just been to Asia—and Philip Temple, Colin Thom and When I left Italy, I went back to my son Jimmy likes to go to LA, Andrew Saint £150.00 work as her assistant, so I learned Why did you choose Chiltern which I really enjoy. I like to go to everything about fashion from Street as the location for your places for a reason, but now I am a her. She was very patient on some store? bit more adventurous. I go to pilates levels, because I went to work for her I have always liked this area. I used twice a week and play badminton knowing nothing, really, but it’s the to have breakfast with my dad in with my friend Neville. experience that really counts. It was Maison Sagne [now Patisserie great, she was an amazing teacher. Valerie] as a teenager and this area What’s in store for the future? I love her—hardly see her, but she’s was my first experience of delicious I’d like to do more homeware, Bookshop David Adjaye: Living Spaces in my heart. food, really—Danish pastries, no interiors, and really build up that Peter Allison £48.00 one had those. I loved that place, it side of the business. I’m going to do Cafe When did you launch your own was really fantastic. Everyone was a pop-up shop in New York next year David Hicks Scrapbooks brand? a Jewish refugee. I remember the and maybe also in Japan. I’d like to In 1990. I left Vivienne and did a owner, Mr Stanley, saying: “We have do more with denim. I love this shop Gallery Ashley Hicks £60.00 collection of my own the following a new cake today, it’s called niniche” and have no plans to have another in RIBA 66 Portland Place, London season. Four or five years later I did and I thought that was so chic. My London. It is important to be intense my first show at The Polish Club. father just roared with laughter. My and not dilute things. I got this message saying, “Oh, Kate sales agent, Maria Lemos, has a shop, BELLA FREUD [Moss] said she’d do your show!” Mouki Mou, further down the street 49 Chiltern Street, W1U 6LX ribabookshops.com * T&C’s apply, please see our website It was a good start. and she insisted I look at this area. I bellafreud.com Presentand this get voucher £5 off 34—marylebonejournal.com when £30 you instore* spend

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.inddBookshops_ MJ_200x250 white border.indd 351 23/11/201713/11/2017 16:4217:28 Features. BEATLES FOR SALE The story of how, 50 years ago this month, the world’s biggest band opened a psychedelic clothes shop in the middle of Marylebone—and managed to make a complete pig’s ear of the entire venture WORDS: JEAN-PAUL AUBIN-PARVU

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 36 24/11/2017 09:46 The Fool design team, creators of the Apple boutique’s distinctive aesthetic

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 37 23/11/2017 16:42 Features. The stated aim of the Apple Beatles for sale boutique was to create “a beautiful place where beautiful people can buy beautiful things”. The Beatles had the keys to 94 Baker Street, a four- storey Georgian townhouse and an unquestionably beautiful place. Now all they needed were the beautiful things for the beautiful people to buy. The band turned to The Fool, a hugely influential design collective, comprising of Dutch artists and designers Simon Posthuma, Marijke Koeger, and Josje Leeger, along with Englishman Barry Finch. Though best known for their collaborations with the Beatles, The Fool also designed stage clothes and album covers for the likes of Cream, the Move and Incredible String Band, These days, to be considered truly plus lavish clothes and interiors for successful, every pop megastar needs films and theatre productions. their own successful line of clothing. Illustrations created for the Saville When former One Directioner Zayn Theatre, which was being leased by Malik launched his debut Versace Beatles manager Brian Epstein, first Versus collection earlier this summer, brought The Fool to the attention of he joined a list of musicians-turned- the band, who were soon gadding designers that already included about in their colourful designs, such Beyoncé, Jay-Z and Kanye West. as the psychedelic tunics worn for the But pop icons dabbling in the rag recording of All You Need Is Love. trade is nothing new. Fifty years ago this month, a popular beat combo In September 1967, The Fool began selling a range of clothing and received £100,000 (around £1.7 accessories from their own shop, right million in 2017) and the mission to in the heart of Marylebone: the Apple design and stock the Apple shop. boutique on Baker Street. Armed with a tonne of cash and total This venture was bound to artistic freedom, they set to work succeed. In 1967, the Beatles were during the autumn and early winter. at the height of their powers. The Simon Posthuma described his biggest band on the planet, their vision for Apple to the Sunday Times: album Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts “It will have an image of nature, like

Club Band topped the charts on a paradise with plants and animals A stream of complaints about the both sides of the Atlantic. On 25th painted on the walls. The floor will shop’s mural had been made to June, they performed All You Need be imitation grass and the staircase Westminster City Council. Yes, the Is Love to an estimated 350 million like an Arab tent. In the windows will Beatles might very well be “more viewers on Our World, the first live be seven figures representing the popular than Jesus”, but even global television link. No wonder seven races of the world. There will the Messiah would have needed they fancied their chances of be exotic lighting and we will make it permission to paint that four-storey flogging a few frocks and jackets. more like a market than a boutique.” psychedelic cosmos, and no one at London, although hardly San Pete Shotton, childhood friend of Apple had bothered to apply Francisco, was witnessing the shoots John Lennon and former washboard of a psychedelic revolution. Hippies player for the Quarrymen (the were starting to appear, along with precursor to the Beatles), was the whiff of pot. As Pink Floyd took appointed shop manager. Shotton up residency at the UFO Club on had been running a Hayling Island Tottenham Court Road, boutiques supermarket jointly owned by Lennon such as Granny Takes A Trip sprang and George Harrison, and for a up along the King’s Road. Karma was short time his retail team at Apple in, colour matching was out. would include the model Jenny Boyd,

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 38 23/11/2017 16:42 The great giveaway gets underway The invitations to the in-crowd read: at the Apple boutique, causing chaos “Come at 7:46. Fashion show at 8:16.” The public lined the pavement outside the shop clamouring for a glimpse of the Fab Four and their celebrity chums. The bruiser of a clown who juggled apples for their amusement was simply getting in the way. A British Movietone News crew was hot on the scene. “To mark the opening the proud owners gave an apple juice party,” reported the narrator in a clipped tone. “John Lennon and George Harrison were the hosts. The other two Beatles were out of town. Paul’s in Liverpool and Ringo’s in Rome.” British Pathé also made it along to “a hippy happening in the psychedelic social structure”. The narrator sounds almost mocking. “And the beautiful people of London made their flower way to Beatles George and John’s with- it Aladdin’s cave, only they call it Apple. It’s a new kind of boutique in Baker Street catering for specialised tastes.” And smells, as Pattie Boyd, then Mrs Harrison, later told BBC Newsnight: “There was sort of a combination of a smell of patchouli oil and incense that was burning everywhere. So it was immediately exotic as you walked in.” But there wasn’t a whiff of booze. The shop had no alcohol license, so guests were served apple juice— a huge shock to the system of Keith Moon, who attended along with Eric Clapton, Twiggy, Cilla Black, Kenneth Tynan, DJ Alan Freeman, Cream bassist Jack Bruce and Richard Lester, younger sister of George’s wife Pattie. creations for a photo shoot. the director of the Beatles’ films. With their designs for the But the outlandish threads were Ever versatile, The Fool provided clothing, The Fool delivered with nothing compared to what the the musical entertainment. On cue interest. No clash of colour was design collective had in mind for the they burst into the shop dressed judged too extreme and when it shop’s exterior. And in November like the cast from a panto. Simon came to fabrics their weapons of Marylebone held its breath as the Posthuma played Arabic music on a choice included lavish silks, tapestry gang got busy with pot and brush. The flute while Barry Finch kept the beat and velvet—lots and lots of velvet. scaffolding tower was finally removed on an ethnic drum as Josje Leeger A mandarin-collared, forest green to reveal a gigantic, four-storey clanged tiny finger cymbals. This velvet jacket that flared at the waist psychedelic mural depicting an Indian was world music as nobody wanted to and boasted puffy bell sleeves risked goddess surrounded by swirling imagine it. fading into the background next images of outer space. Even the to lurid gypsy dresses and capes chimney pots received the full cosmic Apple opened to the public two days adorned with brightly coloured treatment. The mural contrasted later. In terms of footfall, the shop stars. Jenny Boyd and Beatles’ wives sharply with the grey facades of the was an instant success, but when it Pattie Harrison, Cynthia Lennon adjoining buildings. Monotone this came to actual sales the enterprise and Maureen Starr had no problem most certainly wasn’t. was a disaster from the off. As the dressing up like Van Gogh’s easel, A grand launch party was planned months rolled by it became clear happily modelling The Fool’s for the evening of 5th December. that Londoners were treating Apple

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 39 23/11/2017 16:42 Features. but even the Messiah would have pushing and shoving as the police try Beatles for sale needed permission to paint a four- to handle the bargain hunters. storey psychedelic cosmos, and no Though several youngsters tumble one at Apple had bothered to apply. as they squeeze through the door, The council finally acted, issuing they do at least remember to smile up Apple with an enforcement notice to at the camera. A pretty Canadian lass paint over the mural. looks faintly aroused as she tells the “We were absolutely furious about reporter how shaken up she is, while it and couldn’t understand their others rush about filling bags with reasoning at all,” recalled Pattie garments, many still on their hanger. Boyd. “It seemed, as far as we were The management request of only one concerned, to brighten up the whole item per person is universally flouted. street. It brought an awful lot of Apple closed its doors for the final tourists, who were fascinated, and time on 31st July 1968. But the drama endless photographs were taken of it. of the ill-fated fashion boutique didn’t And it was just a fun thing.” end there. Paul McCartney, perhaps In May 1968 the shop’s exterior disgruntled at the demise of the mural, was duly whitewashed, with the word decided to leave his own mark on the ‘Apple’ painted on each fascia in building. On 7th August, McCartney cursive script. “Once we were told drove new girlfriend Francie Schwartz as a tourist attraction, but had no we had to get rid of the painting, and assistant Alistair Taylor to the shop intention of dipping their hands into the whole thing started to lose its and daubed the words “Hey Jude” on their pockets. appeal,” said George Harrison in an the now whitewashed windows. The This had everything to do with the interview conducted for The Beatles following day a Jewish passerby, not price of the clothes. The Fool had used Anthology. The Beatles decided to realising this was a reference to the the most expensive fabrics available pull the plug and announced that Beatles forthcoming single, mistook and insisted on having silk labels in they would by shutting the shop and the graffiti for an act of anti-Semitism. every piece of clothing. When Pete giving away the remaining stock. “He suddenly saw back to the Nazi Shotton pointed out to John Lennon regime from the Second World War, the problem with pricing these The enterprise had lost an when they used to put signs on Jewish garments, he received the following absolute fortune. “Our course owned shops in Berlin,” recounted piece of commercial wisdom: “We’re just isn’t shopkeeping,” explained Alistair Taylor. “He jumped out of not business freaks, we’re artists.” George Harrison with delicious the car and threw this soda siphon The stock might not have understatement. “It’s not really straight through the window. Paul and been selling, but it was certainly a mistake. The only mistake that I had never even given this a thought. disappearing. In the days before anyone ever made was getting born. Naturally, we didn’t press charges.” security cameras, shoplifting became All the rest is life.” George was There ended The Beatles’ brief the number one pastime at Apple. But presumably twanging his sitar as he foray into the rag trade. The Georgian in an era of peace and love nobody launched that spiritual javelin. townhouse at 94 Baker Street was wanted to make any accusations. Paul McCartney explained his demolished and rebuilt in 1974. A Instead there was a reshuffle. The band’s motives in a press release. Heritage Foundation plaque now running of the shop changed hands “Apple is mainly concerned with fun, hangs from the wall in honour of from Shotton to former theatrical not with frocks. We want to devote all John Lennon and George Harrison, director John Lyndon, who himself our energies to records, film and our who, it says, both “worked here”. One was soon replaced by Caleb electronics adventures. We had to can hardly imagine them manning Ashburton-Dunning. The latest refocus. We had to zoom in on what the tills, dealing with customers or manager surely knew his tenure we really enjoy, and we enjoy being running around in the stock room. would be brief, given he was also alive, and we enjoy being Beatles.” But they did, at least for a few short employed as the in-house astrologer They also enjoyed helping themselves months, bring a splash of psychedelic at Apple Corps, which operated from to the stock. “We went in the night colour to Marylebone. the same building. before and took everything we Their shop may have been a Not even an appearance in 1968 wanted,” Ringo Starr later recalled. commercial flop, but it shows just how MGM caper Hot Millions could The great giveaway at Apple far ahead of the game the Beatles turn the shop’s fortunes around. began on 30th July 1968 and lasted were in attempting to market their But worse was to come. A stream of two days. BBC footage shows crowds name—a name as big now as it was half complaints about the shop’s mural jostling for prime position outside a century ago. The Beatles remain the had been made to Westminster City the shop, few if any resembling best selling band in history. Beyoncé, Council. Yes, the Beatles might very flower children. Looting was a polite Jay-Z, Kanye West, Zayn Malik: you’ve well be “more popular than Jesus”, affair back then and there’s little a long way to go.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 42 23/11/2017 16:42 Light entertainment

Dame Barbara Windsor was the star of this year’s stage name back in the 1950s was no coincidence) this was a major Marylebone Christmas Lights event. She talks high point in a career that has been to the Journal about living in Marylebone, missing packed with them. Albert Square and meeting the Queen How long have you lived in INTERVIEW: ELLIE COSTIGAN PORTRAIT: ALAN OLLEY Marylebone? I moved to Marylebone around 30 years ago. From a young age, ever since I did my first West End show It may not end up as thoroughly actor before finding fame as the called Love From Judy at the age of embedded in British cultural archetypal ‘good time girl’ in the 14, I had always wanted to live in the history as her flying bikini top in bawdy and very British Carry On West End. I had to wait until I was in Carry On Camping or her fights films, alongside her much-missed my fifties to achieve it, and it was the with Pat Butcher and Pauline friend and fellow Marylebone-ite best thing I ever did. Fowler in EastEnders, but for a Kenneth Williams. long-term resident of Marylebone, Her role as a national treasure Shoreditch, where you were born, it still registered as a minor career was given a second act in 1994 has changed a lot in recent years. highlight. On 15th November, when she was cast in EastEnders as Would you ever move back? Dame Barbara Windsor mounted Peggy Mitchell, the fierce East End I left there when I was a child, the stage as the guest of honour at matriarch and owner of the Queen because my mother couldn’t wait to The Howard de Walden Estate’s Vic pub, a role that made her a major get us out of there. It has undergone Marylebone Christmas Lights event. force on prime-time television for such a great transformation, there Barbara has been appearing more than two decades. is no way she would recognise it on stages since the age of 13, In 2000, Barbara received an MBE today. It has become a fashionable having visited the theatre with her for her services to the entertainment place to live—people are now trying grandmother as a young girl and industry and last year, she was made desperately to move into not out of fallen in love with the buzz of it all. a dame—as a confirmed royalist the East End! But for me, I am so She learnt her craft as a theatre (that she chose ‘Windsor’ as her happy in Marylebone—although the

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 43 23/11/2017 16:42 Features. SUPPORT NETWORK support they need to break the cycle Light entertainment SCHOOL HOME SUPPORT of deprivation simply perpetuate it for future generations, yet few schools have It is a sad and frustrating truth that those the resources required. SHS works children who stand to benefit most with schools, parents and children to from education are those least likely to address the causes of poor behaviour regularly receive it: school absences are and attendance. Its practitioners over three times higher among children liaise between schools and families to hailing from deprived areas than those improve learning and attendance, and from more affluent ones. School Home work to solve a range of complex issues, Support, the charity beneficiary of the from ill-health to anti-social behaviour. Marylebone Christmas Lights, aims The Ready for School programme sets to address the potent cocktail of issues out to nip potential issues in the bud: that can undermine a child’s access to working with families to make sure that education: poverty, domestic violence, they are prepared for their children to parental substance abuse, family start at school, and providing training breakdown and housing problems. courses for teachers. Children who grow up without SCHOOL HOME SUPPORT the emotional and educational schoolhomesupport.org.uk

East End still has a very special place women with a feisty temper who As well as being a community in my heart. would protect their family at all costs. celebration, the Estate’s Christmas It was one of the happiest times of my Lights event also raises money Do you have any favourite local life. And yes, of course I miss Albert for an important cause—this haunts? Square and my old work colleagues. year, School-Home Support. How There are so many. I love walking in involved are you in fundraising? Regent’s Park and along Marylebone When you look back over your I have been involved in various High Street. It has the best shopping career, what are you most proud charities for many years now, and restaurants and still maintains of? including many children’s charities. that village atmosphere. Among my I am proud that I chose the acting There are no words to stress how favourite places are Fischer’s, the profession and I have been fortunate important these money-raising Golden Hind fish and chip shop, in my career to have worked with events are to each individual charity. Patisserie Valerie, and of course my some of the most talented actors and Young people are our future and everyday shopping in Waitrose and creative teams, having been part of we must all do our best to make sure Johnson Cleaners. There are shops two iconic British institutions: the they get the best start and support for anything you wish to buy—there Carry Ons and EastEnders. Sixty-five in life. The British people, is something for everyone and even years I have been in the business and fortunately, are very charitable and a great gym, Third Space, where there have been lots of highs, like that’s something we all should be my husband Scott spends his early starring on Broadway in Oh! What proud of. mornings. And if you’re feeling a Lovely War. There have been a few under the weather, there is always lows as well, but I learnt from them. Is it your first time going to the great help at Madesil Pharmacie. Marylebone Christmas Lights? Last year you were made a dame. No, I’ve been to the lights switch- Acting has been part of your life How did it feel when you heard the on event many times in the past— from a young age. Were there ever news? whenever I wasn’t working. It has a times you thought about changing Overwhelmed, shocked and truly wonderful atmosphere and it really direction? honoured. I love our country and marks the start of the Christmas Absolutely not. I love it and intend the people in it and have always been celebrations. It’s a great day, and to stay in it as long as the public want a royalist. All I could think about I couldn’t wait to flick that switch EVENT SPACES REIMAGINED me to! when the letter arrived informing at last. me I was to become a dame was my You played the role of Peggy mum and dad and all my family who What are your Christmas doylecollection.com/marylebone Mitchell in EastEnders on and off are mostly no longer with me—how traditions? for 22 years. What did you think proud they would have been. I was Most of my life I have worked at 47 Welbeck St, Marylebone, London W1G 8DN of the character? Do you ever miss very lucky to receive the honour Christmas, in the theatre, which @hotelmarylebone - /themarylebonehotel - @hotelmarylebone Albert Square? from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth was a lovely way to celebrate with the I loved playing Peggy. I’d met so herself at Buckingham Palace. Please public. Nowadays it’s with my loved many women throughout my life believe me, it doesn’t get any better ones, which makes it just that bit who were like her—proud, strong than that. more special.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_features2.indd 45 23/11/2017 16:42 Culture. been part of my musical some concerts as part of education, alongside my exams. Before I knew the piano and then it I’d organised 12, in one subsequently the organ. of the City churches. Song It’s remained the basis of in the City started as a my profession, which is now lunchtime concert series, mainly playing piano as and as time’s gone on it an accompanist to singers. has become more socially Music is one of those engaging. We took part in professions you suddenly LGBT history month the find yourself in. It chooses last couple of years, telling you, in a way. I’m very lucky. the story of artists and musicians who were part How did you go from of that community. We’ve singer and pianist to done projects with mental director of music at the health patients, such as church? Creative Madness in Song, I studied at Cambridge and for which we commissioned while I was there I did an composers to make songs organ scholarship. When out of patients’ poems. I left, I had no idea what I We try to put on concerts wanted to do. I looked for that mean something to jobs in music publishing, or the outside world—to recording classical music take something that’s as that was my degree. traditional, the classical GAVIN ROBERTS It never occurred to me genre, and put it in the you could make a living real world and reinvent The director out of being a performer. the stereotype of classical of music at Then I was offered a job music being all bow ties and St Marylebone as an organist here, 15 suits. years ago, at first mainly Parish Church on playing organ for the choir. Do you think music has an battling stereotypes, People started offering important role to play in making classical me bits of work: playing addressing mental health music accessible for choirs, accompanying issues? singers, working for opera I began Song in the City and eating too companies. Suddenly I had with a programme called many mince pies a freelance career. The Songs from the Asylum, INTERVIEW: ELLIE COSTIGAN church was a launchpad. which told the story of PORTRAIT: CHRISTOPHER L More recently I was made composers who ended their PROCTOR director of music, so there’s lives in an asylum, starting a lot more admin: fixing in the 19th century. In the the singers, choosing the 20th century, patients were music, organising the allowed to compose—it carols, as well as weddings, was seen as a good thing— Do you have a musical memorials and funerals. whereas before then all background? The rest of the time I pens and paper would None of my family are work at Guildhall School have been taken away. In really musical at all— at the Barbican Centre, the last 100 or so years, though my mother used as a freelance piano there’s been a complete to play the piano a bit, so accompanist. change in attitude. Projects it was probably in there like Creative Madness somewhere. I started going You also founded Song in in Song are increasingly to Saturday morning the City, which combines seen as useful medicine group-singing lessons aged classical music with social for those who suffer four and we had a piano in agendas. Tell us about with mental ill health— the house, so I used to come that. certainly those that took home and pick out the While studying at the part in the project found it tunes. Singing has always Guildhall, I had to organise hugely therapeutic. At the

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 46 23/11/2017 16:43 Guildhall, there’s even a thing about the festival was, music therapy department, we always had refreshments which includes the afterwards and lots of the study of music and local businesses donated psychiatry and dementia, bits of food and drink, so learning disabilities and there was that communal communication disorders. aspect. It allows people to The role of the arts in see the church as a hub, as treating mental health is much as a place to worship increasingly seen as being on a Sunday morning. The valuable. church is not a museum. That’s what their new How does this feed into project, Changing Lives, is your work at the church? mainly about: tapping into I have brought all of that what the community needs experience to the church, and the role the church in the form of things like has to play in that, which is the St Marylebone Festival. fantastic. I love putting performances together that try to educate Music is integral to the audiences and have church’s heritage. How something meaningful does that manifest itself to say. The church runs today? an amazing series called We’re very lucky to have Music for the Moment, a professional choir working with people which sings on a Sunday affected by dementia, and morning. Our assistant for this year’s festival we director of music, ran a project called One Thomas Allery, also runs Creation. It was all about a children’s choir, which musicians and artists from rehearses on Sundays and different faith backgrounds performs once a month coming together through at Sunday service. Having performance, and professional musicians celebrating commonality. working in the church My friend Alice Sielle, costs money, so it’s nice the artist who pioneered for parents to see the the project, sees it as her benefit of having that and answer to extremism. The it allows us to train the next church is very open to that generation of professional sort of thing; I think it’s musicians. We also have more important than ever an organ scholar, Bertie for different faiths to work Baigent, who’s brilliant. together. He’s studying conducting at the Royal Academy of Do your productions and Music. The Academy does events at the church tend all of its organ teaching in We try to put on concerts to have a religious bent? the church, on our 30-year- that mean something to No, not at all. The concerts old Rieger organ. If you the outside world—to aren’t of a religious go in Monday to Friday, reinvent that stereotype nature—the church sees its you’ll hear the students of classical music being mission as being part of the practicing. The poor organ all bow ties and suits community. Anyone who gets played more than any passes through the door is instrument in the country! valuable, even if it’s just to come and see this beautiful You put on some space, have 20 minutes of ambitious productions. sitting quietly, or come to What are the challenges a concert. The amazing that come with that?

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 47 23/11/2017 16:43 Culture. or elitist. The reinvention ABACUS, of comic opera Cosi Fan CAPITAL, BASE Tutte that Bertie organised, WHAT’S Until 11th February for example, was fantastic. RIBA But some song recitals can ON 66 Portland Place, be very formal occasions W1B 1AD and there’s sometimes architecture.com a sense that you have to be knowledgeable Emerging architects to appreciate it. A lot of Nicholas Lobo Brennan people think when it comes and Astrid Smitham’s to classical music or opera, (APPARATA) site-specific “I’m not sure how I’m installation in the RIBA supposed to behave, what entrance reframes I’m supposed to wear, when classical architecture, I always like to include I’m supposed to clap.” But using contemporary some element of theatre— as musicians, we love the materials and construction we did a concert based on repertoire and we want to technology to highlight the Robert and Elizabeth share it with people. We’re its restrictions and musical, for example—but singing songs, at the end of opportunities. The it can be difficult. You’re the day, which is something installation runs alongside trying to play the piano, everybody has done since RIBA’s major exhibition organise the musicians, childhood. It’s the most from Pablo Bronstein on check that the wine is communicative tool we the ongoing dominance ready to be served. Liz who have. We try to create an of Georgian architectural works in the parish office environment where people ideas, which presents 50 new is fantastically supportive, feel comfortable. drawings of contemporary but there are only two of buildings, all of them built us, with a small team of None are more so in a Georgian style. volunteers. We try to use than Christmas carol the church space so that concerts... EXHIBITIONS Below: ring by An Alleweireldt it’s as communicative It’s amazing, the carol Above left: Abacus, Capital, Base by Nicholas Lobo Brennan as possible, but even if service is really a DESIGNER and Astrid Smitham you raise people up on a Victorian invention and JEWELLERS stage there are sightline yet this combination of GROUP problems. We have these choir singing and the CHRISTMAS amazing balconies, audience joining in, SHOW which we used in the One singing their favourite 4th—23rd December Creation performance, carols, is a formula that 67 York Street so that’s a practical use resonates—particularly 67a York Street, W1H 1QB of space. We’re always when there’s mulled 67yorkstreet.com asking, how can I use the wine and mince pies space to maximise the afterwards! Christmas is of In a one-off show, pop-up performance? course about celebrating event space 67 the birth of Jesus, but York Street sees Do these productions these concerts are still a collection of help make classical music popular in an increasingly handmade, more accessible to a wider secular world. It captures one-off pieces audience? people’s imaginations. created by I think so. I’m happiest My December is always members of when I can confidently night after night of carol the Designer say to friends that aren’t concerts, and they’re always Jewellers necessarily into classical packed. I won’t be able to Group—a music, “Come along to eat another mince pie by co-operative of this, you will enjoy it.” And the time Christmas comes. designers, brought then when they do, there’s together in their that amazing feeling of ST MARYLEBONE PARISH mutual appreciation for CHURCH doing something that’s 17 Marylebone Road, NW1 5LT individuality of design and not in any way alienating stmarylebone.org professional craftmanship.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 48 23/11/2017 16:43 MATTHEW PAULINE ALEXANDER: BATISTA AND FOLLOWING MADELEINE IN THE STACK: FOOTSTEPS OF FATAL SOFTNESS IMPRESSIONISTS Until 6th January Until 23rd December The Koppel Project Thompson’s Gallery 93 Baker Street, 3 Seymour Place, W1U 6RL W1H 5AZ thekoppelproject.com thompsonsgallery.co.uk In their two-person Matthew Alexander has exhibition, Pauline Batista a reputation as one of and Madeleine Stack Britain’s finest landscape explore the pitfalls of artists, gleaned over 40 western culture, centering years in the art world. In his on the ceaseless pursuit of latest solo show, the artist progress, including images reinterprets the views of of defunct and obsolete well-known impressionists, technology, once deemed including Alfred Sisley cutting edge and now in Louveciennes, Monet valueless. in Veheul and Picasso in Pontoise. CHRISTMAS PICTURE FROM AN EXHIBITION EXHIBITION PAVANNE, BY CARMEN HERRERA ON HIGH: Until 23rd December IN HOPE Cube Gallery Till 22nd December 16 Crawford Street, jaggedart W1H 1BS 28a Devonshire Street, cube-gallery.co.uk W1G 6PS Carmen Herrera was born tube, never mixed. Everything jaggedart.com Cube Gallery brings in Havana in 1915. She’s been we’re going to show is black, with painting since the age of eight—but one other colour.” The works together a diverse roster didn’t sell a painting until she was are, however, characteristically An exhibition from a trio of of works from both 89. “Carmen grew up in Cuba, geometric and bold. “Having artists whose works centre familiar artists—including but she did a lot of travelling and trained as an architect, Carmen eventually moved to New York has a fascination with lines and on the theme of movement. gold leaf cherry blossoms when she met her husband,” says angles. Her work is well planned Expect collaboratively from Jack Frame, Lori artist liaison Caroline Matisse. out, it’s very methodical,” says hand-carved wooden Katz’s ceramics, and line “She spent her formative years Caroline. “She sketches out an as a painter in Paris. Her earlier idea on graph paper to work out mobile sculptures from drawings and watercolours workwas much busier, but by the the composition, then draws and Juliet and Jamie Gutch, and from Kate Evans—and time she left Paris, her art was paints over it until she’s happy. figurative forms comprised two new artists to the completely abstract—she’s been It goes from there onto canvas.” painting in the same style since.” Carmen began designing of intricate paper birds gallery: painter Laurie While Carmen had some ‘estructuras’—or ‘structures’—in from jaggedart stalwart Steen and multi-media success in France, exhibiting the 1960s and “sees them as a link Rachel Shaw Ashton. artist Stephanie Tuckwell. alongside the likes of Piet between sculpture and painting”. Mondrian and Theo Van Doesburg, Pavanne has been recreated when she returned to the US from a 1967 design. Earlier works Laurie Steen her work wasn’t well received. were rendered in wood; Pavanne “Because she’s a woman, is aluminium and acrylic. “It’s a people weren’t receptive.” monument to Carmen’s brother, Carmen continued painting who was at the time dying of without recognition until she was cancer. It’s been a really special ‘discovered’ in 2004. She has been project for her, and for us.” represented by Lisson Gallery Aided by her assistant, Carmen since 2010. This latest exhibition, continues to draw and paint her first in London since 2011, will every day, in the same Manhattan feature ‘estructuras’, paintings, apartment she’s lived in for more and works on paper, all created in than 50 years. At 102, she’s at the the past 18 months. prime of her artistic career. “Interestingly, Carmen’s recent work focuses on black CARMEN HERRERA paintings, which isn’t typical,” Until 13th January says Caroline. “Her palette tends Lisson Gallery to be yellow, green, red, blue 27 Bell Street, NW1 5BY and orange—straight from the lissongallery.com

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 50 23/11/2017 16:43 Cuarteto Casals

EL GRECO TO MUSIC LONDON REIMAGINING GOYA: CONTEMPORARY NATURE: SPANISH CUARTETO MUSIC FESTIVAL HITOMI MASTERPIECES CASALS 3rd—10th December HOSONO’S FROM THE 12th December Ambika P3 MEMORIES IN BOWES MUSEUM Wigmore Hall 35 Marylebone Road, PORCELAIN Until 7th January 36 Wigmore Street, NW1 5LS The Wallace Collection W1U 2BP p3exhibitions.com Hitomi Hosono Manchester Square, wigmore-hall.org.uk W1U 3BN Now in its sixth year, combines elements wallacecollection.org Spanish ensemble the annual music festival of her Japanese Cuarteto Casal—quartet- run by writer and curator heritage with Two British institutions, in-residence at the Escola Igor Toronyi-Lalic and European tradition the Wallace Collection Superior de Música de held in Ambika P3’s and the Bowes Museum Catalunya in Barcelona— subterranean event in intricate collaborate on a major perform three works by space was founded to ceramics, inspired new exhibition featuring Beethoven, and a new provide a home for the by the botany of Spanish masterpieces such score by contemporary “promiscuous music lover”. London’s parks. as El Greco’s The Tears Italian composer Giovanni A week-long festival pass of Saint Peter and Goya’s Sollima, concluding with invites you to experience Each porcelain leaf Portrait of Juan Antonio a rendition of the first a wide array of genres and and flower is press- Meléndez Valdés. See Razumovsky quartet. styles: experimental music, moulded and hand feature pp22-26. erotic films, afrofuturism’, carved, then applied SPRING Al battles, live electronic to vases and bowls, MATIAS SERRA CONCERT SERIES sets and much more, DELMAR: 9th January—25th March including a performance enveloping the A CHANGE IN Royal Academy of Music from the highly distinctive object’s underlying THE WEATHER Marylebone Road, American vocalist Joan shape. Until 31st January NW1 5HT La Barbara. Carousel ram.ac.uk Joan La Barbara Until 15th December 71 Blandford Street, Daiwa Anglo-Japanese W1U 8AB The Royal Academy of Foundation carousel-london.com Music’s spring series kicks 13-14 Cornwall Terrace, off with a production NW1 4QP Matias Serra Delmar’s in the new theatre of dajf.org.uk work, which centres on Jonathan Dove’s opera the theme of opposing Flight. Oher highlights dual elements, makes use will include a Russian of acrylics, watercolours programme with the and line drawings. These Academy Symphony new bold, abstract works Orchestra and Oliver make characteristic use Knussen, and the music of of colour to capture the Duke Ellington directed Herefordshire countryside. by Keith Nichols.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 51 23/11/2017 16:43 Culture. BOOK REVIEWS WORDS: SASHA GARWOOD

THINGS A BRIGHT GIRL CAN DO SALLY NICHOLLS £12.99, Anderson Press

Things A Bright Girl can do is the kind of young adult novel that I really want to time-travel back and give to my 12-year-old self, because it says a significant number of important The Killing of a Sacred Deer things in an engaging and thought- provoking way. Plus, it’s a ripping historical yarn that manages to be almost entirely cliche-free—no mean feat for a triple-coming-of-age novel. The antagonists here are not repressive husbands or mean fathers but structural inequalities and social systems that require the oppression and sacrifice of those who lack status and resources. Its title is a nod to a 1914 book called 301 Things A Bright Girl Can Do, which taught its putative readers a wide range of practical, constructive and more- FILM THEATRE or-less dangerous skills, and while the novel demonstrates a pleasing THE KILLING OF THE ACID TEST selection of options for girls across A SACRED DEER 5th—9th December the class spectrum, it also stands 12th & 14th December The Cockpit as an uncomfortable reminder of Regent Street Cinema Gateforth Street, the ways in which people then and 309 Regent Street, NW8 8EH now have tried to limit each other W1B 2UW thecockpit.org.uk on the basis of their gender. regentstreetcinema.com Evelyn is 17, engaged to the Nineteen-year-old Anya artistic and supportive Teddy Greek director Yorgos Reiss wrote her first play, since early childhood but Lanthimos, the auteur Spur of the Moment, two irresistibly drawn to university behind Dogtooth and years ago—and it was met and the growing suffragist The Lobster, has acquired with critical acclaim. In her movement for women’s yet more acclaim with the second kitchen sink drama, rights. May lives with her release of his new film, The Acid Test, Reiss depicts unconventional, politically The Killing of a Sacred the lives of three young driven mother in cheerful Deer, which won best flatmates, whose night is middle class chaos in the East screenplay and was interrupted by the arrival of End, raised on a steady diet nominated for the coveted one of their fathers, who’s of polite, insistent activism Palme d’Or award at this been kicked out of the and disregard for social year’s Cannes Festival. family home. An awkward nicety, while the relatively In this typically queasy, evening of alcohol, weed impoverished Nell wears uneasy thriller, Steven and emotional outpouring men’s clothes, works in a jam Murphy (Colin Farrell) ensues, touching on factory to support herself introduces a fatherless generational divides, and her family and spends a 16-year-old boy to his familial relationships lot of time at the fist-strewn, family, and things take and the responsibility of window-breaking frontier a turn for the sinister. adulthood. of the Suffragette crusade.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 52 23/11/2017 16:43 BLACK TUDORS THE BUTCHERING ART MIRANDA KAUFMANN LINDSEY FITZHARRIS £18.99, Oneworld Publications £16.99, Allen Lane

Black Tudors is an important book. Lindsey Fitzharris’s The Butchering I don’t just say that as someone who Art is a splendidly colourful, frequently teaches early modern history— wince-inducing and always fascinating although it’s certainly a valuable account of Marylebone man Joseph resource in that context—but as Lister’s battle to bring hygiene to someone who lives in a world where surgery. The quiet, dedicated Quaker concepts of ‘history’ are both Lister, with his lifelong passion for politically loaded and repeatedly microscopic study, affectionate whitewashed, as if early modern relationship with his intelligent wife England had been about as racially and his bouts of depression, is in some diverse as the Nobel Prize shortlist. ways an unlikely hero, but he’s all the Black Tudors contests this myth in more endearing for that. Fitzharris the best possible way, by going back wisely pulls in a lot of brilliantly to surviving documentary records horrifying context and the choleric, and building a series of case studies of eccentric figures of Lister’s colleagues, black Tudor figures, exploring their mentors and opponents lest Lister’s lives and communities and any impact earnestness becomes too much for their colour may (or, often, may not) us. He emerges from the book a As England tips into war, all of them have had on their experiences. determined, brilliant figure of quiet have to decide where their loyalties Kaufmann’s case studies are modernity, the hero that generations lie and how much they are prepared pleasingly diverse in rank and gender, of patients needed and a metaphorical to give up for what they want. ranging from Dederi Jaquoah, the patron saint of modern medicine. Nicholls’ characterisation is Prince of River Cestos, to Henry VIII’s Fitzharris’s descriptions of pre- excellent, with Evelyn, Nell, May trumpeter John Blanke and sex worker germ theory surgery are, well, vivid. and those around them pleasingly Anne Cobbie. My particular favourite Doctors who pride themselves on believable. The queer sexuality Nell was Cattelena of Almondsbury, an never washing their hands or clothes, and May share is sensitively drawn independent single woman, who sets ‘lucky’ operating jackets so stiff with and free from stereotype, and fruitfully off balance our assumptions pus and blood they stand up on the coercion, misunderstanding about gender and power in early their own; rats in operating theatres, and resentment that so often modern England. The background brutal animal abuse in the name of characterises representations and livelihood of each character is research; medical students covered of Edwardian heterosexual explored, along with a fascinating in decaying brain matter—it’s utterly relationships is endearingly absent selection of useful contemporary horrifying and enraging even at 200 from Evelyn’s engagement to Teddy. information, from the silk trade in years’ distance. But this just throws However, this is not to say that the which Reasonable Blackman made his into sharp relief both the arrogance of girls face no conflict on their journey living to the perceptions, practicalities assuming current medical knowledge to adulthood, and the sometimes and persecutions of sex work. is as complete as it ever can be, and the fatal clashes in ideology and desire Despite the paucity of definite importance of quiet, evidence-based that challenge them are all the more evidence—Kaufmann’s necessary study like that Lister engages in. moving for growing out of individual ambivalence about whether or not The book zips along, its articulate situation and background, rather a particular person got married and engaging tone rich with incident. than traditional class or gender lines. or raised a child is occasionally Not everything, fortunately, is a Similarly, the impact of war on frustrating to the narratively- medical horror story—the time on Evelyn, May and Nell’s previously minded—Black Tudors is also a honeymoon when Lister gathered stable—if unsatisfactory—existences treasure trove of fascinating Tudor frogs for experiments and they is all the more powerful for the trivia, illegitimate births jostling escaped in the house, for example, quotidian realism with which it is with syphilis treatments, fornication or the affectionate extracts from described. Nicholls’ writing is clear, prosecutions with colonialism and his conversations with his father, accessible, emotionally nuanced and international trade. It’s also eminently give welcome light relief from the occasionally funny, and she’s clearly readable, its conversational tone onslaught of gore and guts, and done her research. Things a Bright wearing its undoubted learning lightly. Fitzharris clearly has a deep scholarly Girl Can Do captures the intensity Alongside its innovative focus, Black understanding of her topic. If you’re of adolescent emotional experience, Tudors is social history of the best kind: not overly squeamish, The Butchering and it makes for a moving, frequently that which invites us to examine our Art is a fascinating insight into a poignant, sometimes amusing tale. own sociocultural preconceptions. relatively unknown area of history.

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tbc

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 54 23/11/2017 16:43 anything transparent, though I would have loved I live on my own, I have a to. Still, I found her fashion child, I am working and very elegant. I think on have a heavy social life. young and older bodies But I still want to be a it looks tremendous. It woman, looking strong is a nice way to show a and beautiful woman’s figure, and it suits daytime and night time. It’s comfortable, sexy and it looks good.

There is a feel of the 1940s about your collection. What is it that inspires How did you and Agnès Have you designed for the you about that decade? meet? retail sector before? Personally, I need I know Agnès because It is my very first time in inspiration because that she produced the last fashion. I did this as a is what I am used to in the short film I made with my one-off, really, for Agnès. theatre. Passion for the company five years ago, Les We get on very well and old days is very instructive Condiments Irréguliers, she likes what I do, I think. for me. What I like about and we have always kept in Our sense of aesthetic just the 1940s, and the reason touch. The film was about clicked. I designed this collection, a poisoner, set in the 18th is that for me those women ANNE century. Agnès knows Why do you think that is? were the most powerful BLANCHARD absolutely everything Agnès saw some of the ever. They had to handle about 18th century art films I was working on and absolutely everything, The creative mind and architecture, so she what I do in the theatre, because there were no behind Agnès b’s was interested from the and I think we have a men—and they did it, and latest capsule beginning. It’s been in pretty similar background: they looked amazing at the many film festivals since both from strict, square, same time. I live on my own, collection on and has won several bourgeoisie families, both I have a child, I am working theatrical costume awards. going out to rediscover and have a heavy social design, bourgeois and rework the elegance life, and I’m not the only taste and dressing How did you get into of the bourgeois woman. one doing that, either. But costume design? She is very rock and I still want to be a woman like a ninja My mother is a very big fan roll, and I suppose I am and I am glad that we are INTERVIEW: CLARE FINNEY of the theatre—she goes too, and maybe there is women, looking strong and once or twice a week—and something that made her beautiful. I started going with her think we could be part of when I was very young. I the same idea. How have you translated just loved it; the way they that into a contemporary shut down the lights and What do you mean by collection? real people tell you a story. bourgeois? The main problem with I know it is not true for My grandmother was one my grandmother’s outfits everyone, but I have lived of the perfect bourgeois as they were, was that you probably the most magical women: she was very strict, couldn’t do anything while moments of my life in the very strong, but when it wearing them. They are auditorium. Unforgettable came to fashion she had perfectly cut of course, but moments. You share ‘the taste’. She was really if I started sewing, writing things you don’t share in cool. I used to take a lot or cycling, the dress would a cinema. And, because I of her garments and wear tear straight away. Having loved sewing from a young them in different ways— a very classical, straight age, when I realised I could though never revealing skirt and jacket but in a link my two passions, that anything at all! I was not jersey fabric that stretches was that. I’ve done this ever allowed to wear things with means I can live my life, not since and I cross my fingers buttons opened, or show just stand there looking that it never stops. my décolletage, or wear pretty. Also, my colours are

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 56 23/11/2017 16:43 different—brighter and piece. I have no idea about need to know that when happier. We are a bunch mass production. This was the actor enters on stage, of happy ladies these the first time people told the audience knows who days, and I hope that will me, well, if you do this kind he is even if he pops in continue. of fastening rather than and pops out again. Good this one, it costs more, or bad? Funny or wise? Did Agnès give you much and you need to think In theatre, you can make guidance? about that. I also had to people believe whatever you I have a strong connection make garments that would want them to believe, you with Agnès, but she work with most human are building personalities. believes that when she shapes. In theatre or film, There is something so much gives an opportunity to you create something on more... characterful about someone to design a the body of a particular designing for the stage. mini-collection, they actor. should have all the Is that what you do when freedom. We spoke many Are designing for film designing collections, times throughout the and theatre very different build characters? process, but I didn’t want to each other? That is how I dress each her to know too much, The cinema is close up: it morning. I think about really. I am thankful for is realistic, and they want what mood I am in, the freedom she gave me. absolute historical accuracy and create a character as a result of that. From the accordingly. My ninja How much of a change beginning, I have mostly outfit—black turtleneck was it, moving from been interested in theatre. with big black trousers and designing for theatre I go often and I’m fond big black shoes—is for days and film to designing for of dressing actors there, I’ve not had enough sleep consumers? because you don’t need the or I’ve had too many drinks For theatre or cinema I same accuracy. You need the night before. Bright only make one unique to create a character. You blue is for when I feel like making a stand against the director I am working with at the moment. She believes Every day, I think about what people “shouldn’t wear mood I am in, and create colour”, so if I’m feeling a character accordingly. confident I’ll wear a yellow My ninja outfit—black shirt and a fierce blue outfit turtleneck with big black that really... piquer les yeux trousers—is for days I’ve [stings your eyes]. not had enough sleep or had too many drinks the There is a lot of colour in night before your collection... I am very proud of that. Black is good, I wear a lot of black, but it is for my ninja days really. I don’t have a single thing that is black in my collection because there is enough black in the world. Besides, Agnès does beautiful black clothes. Her black trousers fit perfectly, and I am happy to wear them when I am a ninja. Strong, bright colours bring life into your day.

AGNÈS B 40-41 Marylebone High Street, W1U 4QH agnesb.com

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MY FAVOURITES HASTI GHAVAMI The manager of By Malene Birger picks out the best of the current collection

Tumelo coat £535 The inspiration for the whole collection was Scarface—that scene where Michelle Pfeiffer’s character is dancing, and she is so comfortable, sexy and confident. She is her own muse, dressing to impress herself rather than other people. Those characteristics are in these pieces. This coat is a good example. The double zip, the colourful lining—it is a silk blouse, and it is sellers. Silk shirts are so all about the details. It is glamourous chic. Add in, and this one is really sportswear, but luxurious. some heels and you are beautiful. It is nice to have It is functional—you can ready for cocktails. These something so simple: you unzip the bottom so you are a great shape. They can dress it up and you can can sit easily—and you can are long but we can cut the dress it down, too. wear it in the evening, and length very easily. We are wear it in the day. a Scandi brand, so the fit Javiera blazer is long, but we know not £415 Elenasoo trousers everyone is so tall. This is another easy to wear £650 item: striped and double Leather trousers are Simmy shirt breasted, with a good always a favourite. Wear £190 length. It is a nicely tailored them with a blazer or This is one of our best shape, which you can

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 58 23/11/2017 16:43 wear with jeans. There is a INSIDE Naturally, the colour of your matching skirt, too. nails will depend on what you’re KNOWLEDGE wearing. We had a lady in the other Iauno skirt BERNICE AFFAT day who wanted to match her dress £165 The owner of West One MYB exactly, which we can try and do This metallic skirt you if you bring in the dress itself, or a can wear with boots or shares her tips on beauty picture. You might want a neutral with heels. It is very easy. treatments for the festive shade, that will go with various I can go from the office period outfits: I’ve talked a lot about dark to an evening out just by shades, but don’t forget that nudes changing my shoes. are in all year round and you can wear them with anything. Sibvil hooded sweater £235 People tend to associate waxing The whole point of the and spray tans with summer—but collection is that whatever when the frocks are out, legs are you wear and however you out, and you want to make sure choose to wear it, you are they are presentable. It’s worth a woman. You impress having a pedicure, too, if you’re yourself. Even jumpers like going to be in sandals with your this sporty, mohair hoodie dress. Shellac is the most popular are confident and cool. type of treatment, for fingernails as well as toe nails—it lasts for a few Bioncy sweater weeks but isn’t too hard to take off, £215 provided you come into the salon. Some mohair jumpers can People do peel it off at home, but we lose hair, but this doesn’t: it really don’t advise it! It’s not the best is kid mohair, so it is really thing for your nails. soft—it doesn’t itch at all— and I love the pattern. It As far as the face is concerned— looks great with jeans, but We are in winter. It might not well, where to start! Brow shaping even a creamy silk blouse always feel like that outside, but and tinting are popular, but if you underneath this jumper in terms of nail colours, we are really want to make a statement works very well. The layered definitely in winter—and that with your eyes you can have the look is one Malene Birger means dark colours. Reds are total lash lift and tint. This is where does beautifully. perennially popular of course, but we use a silicone gel pad to set the while in summer it tends to be the lashes back a bit, as well as tinting Adolina dress brighter, fire engine reds, now it them—so for up to six weeks you £650 is the deeper shades: burgundy, don’t need to wear mascara, which is I can see Michelle Pfeiffer crimson and maroon. really handy over the festive season. wearing this sheer maxi We can do eyelash extensions and dress embellished with The new shades for the season are infills for those who want more sequins and beads: a iridescent colours and metallics. voluminous lashes, too. sophisticated person in the We don’t have a huge range of these, 1980s. I dress it with ripped because our clients here like quite Facials are worth thinking about jeans, a tank top and heels. classic looks—just yellow golds, rose at this time of year. The heating is You can really play around. golds and a few shades of silver. Some on, the skin is drying out, and you’ll We had a customer who people like to do all their nails red need to keep your skin hydrated— went to Dubai and wore this but for the ring finger, and have that particularly with all those drinks just with a bikini. She sent in glitter, but again it depends on the parties. Drinking water is a fairly a picture. I love that—but local demographic. simple way of doing that, but facials you can wear it as a dress can also help. The other benefit of also. What I love about this Our clients in Marylebone are a facial of course is that it provides collection is that you can generally looking for a timeless some much-needed downtime—not really play around with it. look, for nail shapes as well as to be underestimated in the run-up shades. We’ve been through the to Christmas. BY MALENE BIRGER long and pointy trend, but now it’s all 28-29 Marylebone High Street, WEST ONE MYB W1U 4PL about the short, natural oval you can 60 Chiltern Street, W1U 7RB bymalenebirger.com actually type with. westonemyb.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 59 23/11/2017 16:43 Style. fire, wood, metal and productivity, like the gym.” water. They believe that if Aldona also advises I’ve been prescribed you remove one, you won’t arriving early, to enjoy the earth oil, because my get the full benefit of the facilities: a 16-metre pool, form suggested I was others,” she continues, sauna and steam room, ‘overthinking’—a fairly “which is why we ask as well as the music-filled permanent state of mind you some quite unusual relaxation room. Outside for me, so I welcome the questions in our elemental the sauna, a polite notice intervention questionnaire.” kindly requests you enter Put simply, the idea without your mobile behind these questions phone’s blinking, buzzing is to “make you think distractions. “We have very about how you’re feeling limited cell phone access, emotionally when you and that is helpful”—not arrive.” Thus, as well as for the spa’s card payment “If you could just fill out “the standard, westernised machines, she smiles wryly, IN YOUR this questionnaire”— questionnaire”, the “but it does mean when ELEMENT the receptionist smiles, Chuan therapists hope you come here you are handing me two sheets of to determine your really getting away.” Having The Journal pays paper. The first I could fill personality and state of forgotten my costume, the a visit to Chuan out with my eyes closed, mind, such that they can pool is not an option for Body + Soul to as could anyone: not on match the massage to your me, but I enjoy a toasty 15 medication, slightly low mood. After all, a massage minutes in the sauna prior enjoy a massage blood pressure, no grim or facial is often as much to my treatment. When my and discover why chronic diseases, etcetera, an emotional as it is a therapist collects me, my the specifics of our etcetera. The second— physical experience. red face is no longer the emotional state and well. “Which season do you “We try to think outside result of incompetent ticket prefer?” it starts off. I hover the box,” says Aldona— users on the tube. least favourite time between summer and a thinking which extends I’m having the Chuan of day are of interest autumn. “What time of day not just to the elements, Harmony Massage, the to a therapist are you least motivated?” but to the whole spa most popular treatment at I look at the options. experience: from the Chuan Body + Soul—and WORDS: CLARE FINNEY IMAGES: JOSEPH FOX ‘All times’ isn’t there, lockers (easily opened with with good reason, being so I opt for ‘afternoon’, a magnetic wristband so 60 minutes, full body and thinking of the post- there’s no fiddling with fairly mild. At no point lunch slump. I circle my coins and keys) to the during the 60 minutes of favourite colour (green), GHD straighteners in the kneading and pushing do my least favourite weather bathroom, to the herbal I feel we stray near the level condition (wind), and my tea and pile of fresh berries of pressure that could be emotional state (mounting you receive at the end of described as masochistic: anxiety). Finally, I hand my your treatment. this is no pain, all gain. I’ve completed forms back to “The herbal teas been ‘prescribed’ earth oil, reception and head with have all been blended because my form suggested relief to the relaxation by a traditional Chinese I was ‘overthinking’— room. doctor,” explains Aldona, a fairly permanent state There, amid an “and the one you receive of mind for me, so I oasis of plush cushions, matches your treatment.” welcome the intervention. herbal teas and fresh In order to get the most I could have opted for fruit, wellness manager out of your experience, fire instead—I was 50-50 Aldona Gidzinska is she recommends taking between the two elements, waiting to enlighten your tea and fruit in the apparently—but when me. Chuan Body + Soul relaxation room after offered a blind smelling, treatments are inspired changing, “just to have I was drawn to the former, by traditional Chinese time for yourself. What we which smelt surprisingly medicine, she says, and have really tried to do with un-earthy. “It’s related “in that philosophy, there our rebrand is create an to the lips, liking sweet are five elements we need atmosphere that clients flavours, and late summer,” to balance, in order to be feel they can sit in and says Camille Roberts, my happy and healthy: earth, relax, as well as a place for designated masseuse. It

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 60 23/11/2017 16:43 smells like eucalyptus and to gently, to the sound of fresh mint tea. Camille whispering that she I lie down; first on my is just going to fetch my tea front, then on my back, and fresh fruit while I got a soft towel discreetly ready. The tea is fragrant preserving all modesties. and refreshing, served in a I am plied with oil and beautiful Chinese teapot pummeled gently, but alongside raspberries and firmly from the tips of blueberries in a dainty my fingers to the tops porcelain bowl. This is of my toes. Camille contentment. If only I could asked me beforehand be teleported from here, which area she should I’d be in nirvana right now; pay particular attention as it is, the Victoria line to, and I respond in the awaits me. But with a new fashion I imagine every back, a new scent, and a new other working Londoner sense of energy following does: “My back has been the massage, I almost feel playing up recently.” The ready for it. “Chuan means satisfaction I feel after she flowing water in Chinese,” has unknotted and rolled smiles Aldona, “and the out the various twists and reason we called our spas gnarls in my laptop-weary that is because we want you ligaments is akin to that to leave feeling refreshed of climbing into smooth, and renewed.” Mission freshly washed bedclothes. accomplished. I think I fall asleep. I CHUAN BODY + SOUL certainly drift in and out of 2 Cavendish Place, W1B 3DE consciousness, and come chuanspa.com

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 61 23/11/2017 16:43 Style. and some scabbing—but the skin usually heals within seven days. Happily, ESTABLISHED 1989 only one treatment is required to permanently reduce scarring. FOR BEAUTIFUL LIVING With Kay, you’re in very safe hands. Having qualified as a nurse in 2001, she continues to practice within the NHS, alongside her work at her bricks-and- mortar private practice on Wimpole Street. “There are various courses you “Are you sure you won’t tattoo removal works via can do to specialise in INVISIBLE regret this?” was the last “little burns to the skin aesthetics, and you usually INK thing my apprehensive that create access to the have to be certified by the mother said to me when, at dermis, which is where Nursing and Midwifery Kay Greveson, 18 years old, I and my two the tattoo ink is located”. Council to do them,” she qualified nurse and best friends decided to get A dressing is applied to explains. “I go on about owner of Regent’s matching tattoos. And, the treated area, which three courses a year to keep being 18, my reply was a encourages an osmotic my skills up and stay on Park Aesthetics, on confident: “Of course not!” response that soaks up the top of new techniques and a new technology Needless to say, these days, pigment. “It’s less invasive products. You’ve really got for tattoo and scar the sharpie-esque star on and not as painful,” says to know what you’re doing.” removal my hip causes me to wince Kay. Treatment lasts for 30 Each treatment begins whenever I catch sight of it. to 40 minutes and around with a consultation WORDS: ELLIE COSTIGAN It’s a story that’s all too six treatments are usually to put the patient at common. That pattern necessary. “We do a patch ease and ensure clear you once loved; that quirky test on the area first, which understanding of what symbol; the name of a gives an indication of how to expect. “It’s important boy/girl friend who ended many sessions you’re likely to manage people’s up a thing of the past, to need.” expectations. If you have etched permanently onto But that’s not all the really severe scarring, your skin. Now, however Plexr machine can do. “We the treatment might just (breathe a collective use the same machine to improve it: you can’t always sigh of relief) not only do a number of treatments, expect a completely clear do tattoos no longer including mole and scar complexion,” says Kay. have to be permanent, removal, using a similar “It’s about talking people but improvements in technique,” Kay continues. through it, giving them technology mean removal “Scar removal works by the opportunity to ask can be far less painful and doing little controlled questions and listening to more effective than it used burns to the skin that help what their concerns are, to be. flatten the scar tissue. It’s then using my experience “The Plexr machine we really good for things like to explain what’s possible. have allows us to remove acne scars—both for pitted “These things can tattoos using a method and discoloured skin.” It interfere with your called sublimation,” works by ionising gas in confidence and make you explains Kay Greveson, the atmosphere, which feel really self-conscious, nurse and owner of forms a plasma that works so it’s important to have a Regent’s Park Aesthetics to shorten and tighten skin friendly, open approach on Wimpole Street. “It’s fibres. “It doesn’t actually and put people at ease. But not a laser, so it doesn’t touch you—there’s a when you’ve been a nurse damage the skin.” Laser little spark that jumps for 16 years, that comes 88 MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET, LONDON W1 tattoo removal works by between.” There might be pretty naturally.” dispersing the ink into some redness immediately REGENT’S PARK AESTHETICS WWW.COLOGNEANDCOTTON.COM the body, from where it is after the treatment, which 19 Wimpole Street, W1G 8GE eventually excreted; Plexr settles within a few hours, regentsparkaesthetics.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 62 23/11/2017 16:43 C&C_Marylebone_Ad(11.17).indd 1 15/11/2017 11:14 ESTABLISHED 1989

FOR BEAUTIFUL LIVING

88 MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET, LONDON W1

WWW.COLOGNEANDCOTTON.COM

C&C_Marylebone_Ad(11.17).inddmj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 1 63 15/11/201723/11/2017 11:1416:43 Black wool trilby with pom-poms Leather rabbit coin pouch Style. Paul Smith, £95 Paul Smith, £175

Neptune berry drops Clare V Luce bag Cox & Power, £4,975 KJ’s Laundry, £315

Love Game eyeshadow palette Catherine Tough lobster ankle socks Space NK, £45 Anthropologie, £8

Cadentia Prestige eau de cologne Hearts hot water bottle Cologne & Cotton, £28 Caroline Gardner, £60

Embellished bow barrette Donegal cashmere wool scarf J Crew, £29 Toast, £195

Navy glitter with velvet heart French Sole, £180

THE GIFT LIST THE BEST OF THE SEASON FROM MARYLEBONE VILLAGE

To explore the Estate’s retail To find out more about the Estate Make sure you’re offering or read a wealth of or to view its rental portfolio visit: connected to features visit: hdwe.co.uk marylebonevillage.com Marylebone Village To find out more about through social and @MaryleboneVllge Harley Street Medical Area visit: Marylebone Village harleystreetmedicalarea.com online. @marylebonevillage @marylebonejrnl @HarleyStMedArea Carefully nurtured by The Howard @marylebonejrnl #HSMA de Walden Estate, Marylebone Harley Street Medical Area Village is an attractive and To find out more about the Estate’s welcoming neighbourhood, community event work visit: offering residents, workers and maryleboneinteriorsday.com visitors a quality of life unrivalled msfilmnight.com in most major cities. marylebonesummerfayre.com marylebonechristmaslights.com 64—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 64 23/11/2017 16:43 hdwe_MJAD_marylebonevillagewebsite_DECEMBERJANUARY_2018.indd 1 22/11/2017 17:02 To explore the Estate’s retail To find out more about the Estate Make sure you’re offering or read a wealth of or to view its rental portfolio visit: connected to features visit: hdwe.co.uk marylebonevillage.com Marylebone Village To find out more about through social and @MaryleboneVllge Harley Street Medical Area visit: Marylebone Village harleystreetmedicalarea.com online. @marylebonevillage @marylebonejrnl @HarleyStMedArea Carefully nurtured by The Howard @marylebonejrnl #HSMA de Walden Estate, Marylebone Harley Street Medical Area Village is an attractive and To find out more about the Estate’s welcoming neighbourhood, community event work visit: offering residents, workers and maryleboneinteriorsday.com visitors a quality of life unrivalled msfilmnight.com in most major cities. marylebonesummerfayre.com marylebonechristmaslights.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.inddhdwe_MJAD_marylebonevillagewebsite_DECEMBERJANUARY_2018.indd 65 1 23/11/201722/11/2017 16:4317:02 Home. Have you always worked I came in as head of buying got amazing block print in fashion and interiors? and my remit was to look tassel throws: the design is I started in the industry at the product and refresh carved out on a block and when I was 21. I joined it. It’s been going for 20- is literally hand printed, so Arcadia Group when I odd years and like every it’s very labour-intensive. graduated, then spent brand, sometimes you You’re inevitably going a year at Warehouse need fresh eyes to keep it to get variants, but that buying for the American moving forward. irregularity adds to its franchise. I’d never been I wanted to feel able to beauty. We’ve got these to New York before and wear the clothes and love lovely baubles coming in when I went, I completely every piece, and establish for Christmas which are all and utterly fell in love a point of view that was hand-blown in Damascus with it—so I moved there. different to everybody in Syria, which they are I was ambitious; I wasn’t else’s, while holding on to still managing to get to us going fast enough, and the values of Toast. despite all the turmoil. the fashion industry is I was—I am—so The ceramics are all much bigger over there. I passionate about the British-made. There’s a lady ended up working for The product, I was getting we’re working with at the Limited, which is a big myself involved in how moment, Pip Hartle, who’s company with huge labels things were shot, who based in east London. like Victoria’s Secret. When we were casting, how the Brickett Davda—which I came back I joined Nicole styling looked online, does a line of earthenware Farhi as head of retail and if the outfits were right, tableware—is based in buying, and spent nearly what the windows looked Brighton and we’ve been 10 years there. It’s a lovely like. I wanted to keep working with the lady NIKKI SHER label—all about quality that momentum going, behind that for about 15 and texture; it’s really very right through to the point years. We commission Head of buying and beautiful, much like Toast. of sale. Eventually I was lines that are unique to creative at Toast offered the role of head of us, but also occasionally on Syrian baubles, Where do you think your creative, so it was a natural buy from an artist’s own love of this sector comes progression. collection—it’s not mass off-beat colours and from? produced, so we’re fine cultured customers My mum has been in the What do you look for in a if it’s also in the V&A, for INTERVIEW: ELLIE COSTIGAN fashion industry her whole piece? example. But everything life—I definitely inherited For us, the key attributes has our handwriting. It’s a her genes. She’s 73 now and are it needs to be small collection, but it’s very still works full time. She handcrafted—not widely thoughtful. started as a window dresser available or mass produced. in Leeds, but left when she It has to have an element Do you approach the was 16 and came to London. of social consciousness homeware and clothing She met my dad when they about it, that’s so key to our collections similarly? were in their early twenties DNA: it has to be natural Everyone works from and they bought their first dye, organic, fair trade, the same concept board store in Cranleigh, Surrey, or something that’s made drawn up by Jessica Seaton, so right in the middle of the with authentic, artisanal our brand director. Each countryside. I worked with methods. There needs to designer will translate it her for a while before I came be a story to it. The design into their product category, to Toast. It was during that team do a lot of site visits, so we make sure that time I met my husband and they go on research trips whatever we’re doing in had a baby. I started at Toast for inspiration and they homeware sits really well when Ruby was one and a come back with amazing with that. Currently, for half. I really needed it—I’ve video stories. example, we have velvet always worked really hard, For example, the in the main collection, so so without it I was a bit lost. dressing gowns and jackets we have beautiful velvet As much as I worship her! are incredible—they’re cushions and throws. Our made from recycled saris homes are an extension You joined Toast three and we know the women of ourselves—the way we years ago. What does your who make them are paid dress is quite similar to how role encompass? above average. We’ve we like to dress our homes,

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 66 23/11/2017 16:43 Times are changing and people are feeling more socially conscious, wanting more from their products than just the materiality. They want to understand that there’s a story behind it that’s important

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 67 23/11/2017 16:43 Home.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 68 23/11/2017 16:43 Who is the Toast customer? When Jess and Jamie She is intelligent, cultured, started the company more discerning—she knows than 20 years ago, they what value for money looks were real mavericks of their like. She’s got her own style time—now everything because she knows her own is about simplicity, mind, but it’s never over functionality and beautiful the top. She’s stylish and design: the qualities that modern, no matter what Toast was founded on age she is. We’re ageless. In fact, we’ve seen huge growth in 25 to 35-year- old buyers. I think times are changing and people are feeling more socially conscious—wanting more from their products than just the materiality of it. They want to understand that there’s a story behind it that’s important. Our products are things to be kept, they’re not throwaway. That translates across both fashion and homeware.

Toast is still reasonably small, with only four so the lines are blurred. but also really wearable, How has the homeware London locations. Are If a Toast customer loves with lots of cultural collection evolved? they deliberately placed? what’s she’s wearing, she’ll references. We’ll take a It started with nightwear, We think what we’ve got love how we’ve curated our typical madras check, for but over the years it would is very special and want to homeware. example—an authentic fluctuate, depending continue to introduce the Everything we do in technique from India— on what was going on at brand to a wider audience, clothing and homeware and then we’ll re-colour the time and how much but we’ve been very is created with the same it. We love colour—we travelling Jess and Jamie careful about our growth. intention: to encourage want things to pop, but had been doing. They Marylebone has been people to slow down and be with something that’s would never just put things having a real moment. It’s mindful. We’re not about surprising. in for the sake of it. Since gorgeous. It’s such a good fast fashion. Everything is When Jess and Jamie I’ve been here, we’ve position for Toast, with designed with great care started the company more identified areas that are Caravane and The Conran and made with exceptional than 20 years ago, they really popular and put a Shop also there. When you material and in that way, were real mavericks of their lot of energy behind them. walk into Daunt Books, everything links together. time—now everything One of those is bedding you get that feeling—it’s is about simplicity, and everything that sits so authentic, which is how The Toast aesthetic is functionality and beautiful around it. We’ve got organic people feel when they walk distinctive. How would design: the qualities that ticking stripe sheets that into Toast. It makes you feel you define it? Toast was founded on. So it’s are really beautiful, which so good, you want to take it We have a very strong still very relevant. We don’t are offset well by our solid home with you. It’s tranquil colour palette, unique to follow fashion, but there colour linen sheets. When and creative at the same Toast—we never go with are always nods to what’s we go to India and look at time. You calm down when primaries, we always go off- happening culturally in the throws, we make sure they you walk into the store— palette and come up with world. Everyone feels really will dress those sheets, our which is exactly what you really rich combinations. immersed in the brand: cushions and everything want in your own home. There’s something we’re clear on what a Toast around that. We’re almost TOAST quite artistic about it. It’s colour is, a Toast shape, and building someone’s 44 Marylebone High Street, W1U 5HF eclectic—slightly off-beat, who our customer is. bedroom for them. toa.st/uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 69 23/11/2017 16:43 Home. When Christmas trees go up all over London, I am certain we’ll see a good few of them dressed in warm metallic: brass, copper, bronze and so on. We’ve a number of different decorations for those looking to emulate that trend, from our handblown precious metals Christmas tree topper, to our metallic baubles—one set of which come with eyes painted on, and the other just simple silver, gold, rose gold and copper tones. In fact, we’ve a whole metallica range this year. As for statement lights, HOME we’ve added a bit of a HELP modern touch with an eclectic range of both Stephen Briars, string and outdoor lights. creative director of I particularly like the The Conran Shop, mini-cube string lights, with a rainbow effect, and on decorating your the warm white LED lights home tastefully for that come in the shape of Christmas a wreath. of our Taiga collection: whether your decorations The Mexicana theme Taiga is the Russian are an extension of your INTERVIEW: CLARE FINNEY is also big this year—we word for snow-capped interior style at home. wanted to bring in some forests, and the collection quirky ornament designs is designed to evoke What particular that buck the traditional the season’s first frost, decorations are you trends. We’ve got piñata elemental tones and the excited about? decorations, tacos, hot natural beauty I’m particularly excited chilli sauce and tequila of woodlands. about our Lumio book baubles, some tonal fans. lamps—their versatility What are the top Kitschy Mexicana is fun. How do you toe the line allows them to decorate Christmas decorating between enthusiastic the middle of a table, trends for this year? How do you do the and gaudy? adding intrigue to any While the traditional red all-whites look without Nothing is too much as dining scenario, as well and green colour scheme things getting samey? long as you’re getting as hanging as beautiful will always be a favourite, When dressing your creative and allowing light pendants. The it is nice to see alternative home in one colour, it’s yourself to experiment. walnut or orange and festive trends emerging important to play with It is okay to decorate green combination is alongside this. Every year different textures to outside the box. It all particularly Christmassy. there are a handful of new make things interesting. comes down to injecting We’ve also played around trends that influence how Even if you aren’t into the some personality. a lot with cactuses and we style our homes for all-white theme, using a coloured sand this season, Christmas, and there are a white backdrop allows the What are the dos and which brings a completely number this year: metallic, other colours and textures don’ts of decorations? new energy to this time statement lights, kitschy to pop. The snow on an There are no dos and of year. Mexicana and all-whites. eggshell bauble is a good don’ts really, it all comes example of this, or our down to whether you THE CONRAN SHOP 55 Marylebone High Street, What does each trend snowman Christmas tree want to create a statement W1U 5HS entail? decoration. Both are part Christmas at home or conranshop.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 70 23/11/2017 16:43 Clockwise from far left: FIVE OF Watermelon slice THE BEST The Conran Shop, £8 Palm tree TREE Oliver Bonas, £8 Bullfinch DECORATIONS Skandium, £4 Flocked glass ornament Anthropologie, £16 Antiqued drop glass bauble The White Company, £4

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 71 24/11/2017 09:46 Food.

I was travelling around Europe in a tiny car with two surfboards when I met chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Mr Nobu was always pushing the boundaries and creating something new

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 72 23/11/2017 16:43 How would you describe When did your focus many people outside Japan Dinings? change from the surf to ate raw fish. Mr Nobu In Japan it would be the kitchen? changed this through called an ‘izakaya’, which I was travelling around innovation. In Japan, is a relaxed, informal Europe in a tiny car with sashimi is normally fish dining place. We serve two surfboards when I met with wasabi and soy sauce. our own unique style of chef Nobu Matsuhisa. I had But with Mr Nobu sashimi sushi and sashimi as well gone for an interview at his could have garlic, soy as Japanese tapas. Nobu restaurant in Paris sauce, sesame oil, carefully and was stunned when I saw prepared vegetables, KEIJI FUKU Where did your love of this huge restaurant serving he used a wide choice food come from? Japanese fusion food and of European or South The co-owner and When I was a child, my sushi, because I didn’t know American ingredients. head chef of Dinings father would always make of his reputation. That That for me was very on surfing, sushi a bento box for my lunch was when I really focused inspiring, it was true fusion and I remember watching in on the cooking. I only cooking. That is still a key and why the idea of him cooking and making trained in that kitchen for part of my approach. a ‘pure’ cuisine is up the boxes. I always nine months because of a fallacy wanted to help but was visa restrictions, but moved You opened Dinings with restricted to cleaning to the Nobu kitchen in chef Tomonari Chiba. INTERVIEW: VIEL RICHARDSON IMAGES: CHRISTOPHER the boxes. Park Lane and finished my Where did you meet him? L PROCTOR Also, our neighbour training there. I met chef Chiba in 2001 ran a ‘taishu shokudo’— in the Nobu at Mayfair. He in English it would be a How was the training? was also head chef at Ubon cafe—and when I was 13, It was very demanding, [another Nobu restaurant] I started working there but very inspiring as at Canary Wharf when doing the washing up and well. Mr Nobu was always I worked there. He is a some front of house work. pushing the boundaries brilliant chef and was the There were lot of regulars and creating something youngest Nobu head chef coming and going and I new, while at the same at the time. found the food interesting. time serving amazing I also liked the smiling food. You had to master Did he influence your faces. Seeing the joy this the technical skills but cooking? simple place brought to so there was always space for When creating dishes he many people made a big creativity in the Nobu way was always talking about impression on me. of cooking. One dish I the customer’s experience. remember clearly was the He said we are in Europe When did you start sushi-sashmi ‘omakasei’, and the menu must reflect working in kitchens? which is when the customer that. So around 70 per My real love growing asks the chef to choose cent of his ingredients are up was surfing. At 21 I from the best selection European and 30 per cent moved to a place called of that day’s produce and would be Japanese. What Mie, north of Osaka, to create a dish for them. he was always trying to pursue my dream of being To do this well takes avoid was producing some a surfer. The brother of skill, a deep knowledge kind of pastiche Japanese one of the other surfers of the ingredients and food, like in some kind of ran a ‘sushi kaiseki’ place. a connection with your Japanese show. I needed a job and had customers. It is a dish I love some kitchen experience, to do because it pushes What is your process for so started working there. your creativity. thinking about a dish? That was the first time I It always starts with the was in a kitchen cooking How does your time at customers and the staff. Of for the public—all I did Nobu influence how you course I will have ideas, but was eat, sleep, surf and cook today? I always listen to see what cook. I worked there for I think that the biggest the customers are saying three years before moving influence is in my and what ideas the staff to France, because the creativity. Mr Nobu was are coming up with. I will surfing scene in Europe always thinking of the also see what the market was more advanced. customer. In those days not is saying. In the days of El

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 73 23/11/2017 16:43 Food.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 74 23/11/2017 16:44 about. It is easy to pile layer that it was time for me after layer onto a dish, but to do something on my then you can lose sight of own. Chef Chiba was also the original idea—what is looking to branch out, so the main ingredient, and we started making and which are the supporting selling cakes in our spare cast? Suddenly the dish time. People liked our has lost focus and the creations, which gave us the customer is not getting the confidence that there could best experience. be a long-term future for any venture. We looked at a You have mentioned lot of premises before being the importance of the told about this place, which customer relationship had been a restaurant but several times. was closed. It was in very Everything comes back poor shape but had the to this; it is why the front facilities we needed and of house staff are so there was something about important. In fact, in it that appealed. I liked the Japan when you start in a fact that it was opposite a restaurant you have to work wonderful church, which front of house before you has a beautiful energy. can work in the kitchen. In some places this can be How was the reaction for up to a year. The idea when you opened? is that you understand It was very good but low this relationship when key, which was deliberate. in the kitchen. Often it is There were only four of the accompaniments and us at the start, chef Chiba, presentation that make his wife on pastry, myself Bulli, it was all foams and Mr Nobu created, but we do the dish Japanese, and and one staff member. spheres, but now that has it in our own way here. the front of house staff If the place had been passed and there is a move explain the history and busy from the beginning toward simple, ingredient- It all seems very eclectic. context of the dishes so the people would have gone led cooking as opposed to That is how all cooking diner understands and is away disappointed. We dishes designed to show off is. Every cuisine borrows excited about the dish by could not have done all high technique. ideas from others as cooks the time it arrives, and then that we needed to establish travel around the world. gets more out of the whole the concept and still Give us an example of a There is no such thing as experience. produce our best food for dish you have recently a ‘pure cuisine’. Whether the diners. It is why we let created? it is ingredients, cooking Why Marylebone? our reputation develop ‘Maguro’—tuna—is very methods or techniques, In about 2003 I was by word of mouth. That important in Japan. They we are all learning from working with chef Chiba way, the staffing and the say that if you don’t serve each other. This is why the at Nobu, but was thinking concept grew organically maguro, you are not a sushi staff and customers are so with the guests, which was restaurant. I created very important to the direction what we wanted. simple maguro sashimi the restaurant has taken. Every cuisine borrows with truffle and foie gras. Yes, I am the head chef, Do you still surf? ideas from others. There That is one of our signature but I could not do this on Yes I do. I go down to is no such thing as a combinations and it is my own. Cornwall when I can, ‘pure cuisine’. Whether very popular. We are also which is a bit difficult it is ingredients, cooking making a sizzling plate So what is the core with a business and young methods or techniques, called Japanese toban-yaki. principle you are looking family. But I love it down we are all learning from The plate is the toba, on for in your food? there. It has great seafood each other top of which you can serve I am looking for simple and good surfing—what beef, lamb, duck or fish clean dishes with a real more could I ask for? with mushrooms, enoki, clarity of purpose and DININGS seasonal vegetables. This defined flavours. You need 22 Harcourt Street, W1H 4HH was actually an idea that to know what the dish is dinings.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 75 23/11/2017 16:44 Food. A younger wine may be improved slightly by giving it a little aeration before drinking—whenever I open any bottle of wine, be it screwcap or cork, I always let the wine breathe naturally for a minute or so. However, decanting an older wine— which perhaps comes from an outstanding chateau or vineyard and has spent many years being matured in the bottle, during which natural sediments form— is absolutely vital. In my TWO WINES TO ENJOY WITHOUT WORLD DECANTING TOOLS OF opinion, most full-bodied THE TRADE OF wines—from opulent 2015 Greywacke Riesling , and fragrant whites and Marlborough, New Zealand WINE Vinoteca, £21 Md Moinul Islam, ROBERT flavoursome and powerful A super fresh, highly aromatic, dry head pastry chef at reds, to a decent vintage riesling made by legendary wine GIORGIONE port—also benefit from maker Kevin Judd. Best served The Marylebone lightly chilled and perfect with fish A beginners guide being decanted. and seafood. Hotel, on a piece of Saying that, oxygen is kitchen kit that he to letting wine the mortal enemy of an 2015 Felton Road Cornish Point, Central Otago, New Zealand couldn’t live without breathe opened bottle of wine— Philglas & Swiggot, £43.50 we’ve all seen a half-drunk One of the best examples of a INTERVIEW: VIEL RICHARDSON bottle lose freshness and go single vineyard, New World pinot noir. Felton Road Cornish Point flat, and inevitably we pour is powerful and fruity, and would it down the sink. There is drink perfectly with seasonal fare The question of whether now an interesting gadget and game dishes. It may not be the most wines should be given time from Coravin that allows THREE WINES TO ENJOY AFTER glamorous piece of to breathe is one that I’m you to serve fresh glasses of DECANTING equipment, but the one often asked. Will the wine wine from the same bottle thing that I could not do 2014 Pieropan La Rocca, taste better poured straight over weeks or even months: Veneto, Italy without in the kitchen is out of the bottle into your a syringe is inserted Philglas & Swiggot, £29.50 my professional mixer. glass or will it need a little through the cork to deliver One of Italy’s finest white wines, Anyone who has ever produced by the Pieropan family. aeration beforehand? the gas then, due to cork’s La Rocca is a highly aromatic and tried to mix cake batter or When choosing a wine, elastic properties, it neatly flavoursome wine, ideal lightly- knead dough by hand will either in a restaurant, or reseals the bottle once the chilled and decanted around half understand immediately an hour before serving. when browsing the shelves syringe is withdrawn— what I mean. On any given in a wine merchant, most perfect for those special 2004 Viña Tondonia Rioja day, the pastry kitchen at people will be looking for wines to be enjoyed over Reserva, Rioja, Spain The Marylebone Hotel Vinoteca, £29.50 a wine that can be drunk two or three nights. A traditional rioja, aged for a few will be creating a wide straight away—the practice In addition, my advice years in oak barrels, then a few variety of things: there are of ‘laying down’ wines is would be to get hold of more years in the bottle. Allow this desserts for the restaurant, flavoursome red to breathe for up for collectors. I too am a some decent glassware, so to one hour and serve with roast fancies for afternoon teas, believer that wines are made that each wine, whatever its meats or game. sweets, a wide variety of to be drunk—but the trick type, has the perfect shape cakes for The Pantry, as 2002 Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas is knowing how to get the and environment in which Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal well as bespoke ones for best out of each wine when to express itself. I have Waitrose, £29.99 special occasions. We also you do. Most commercially- several preferences for A big,broad single estate vintage make different types of port with black fruit flavours, hints available wines can be wine glasses, including of liquorice and stewed fruits. bread, rolls and buns. For drunk straight away and Zalto, Riedel and Italesse. Allow to breathe in the decanter, all of this, batter has to the ‘breathing’ part can I suggest you visit EuroCave keeping any natural sediments in be mixed, fillings made the bottle. Perfect with a platter of be done while the wine is or Philglas & Swiggot in artisan cheeses. and dough kneaded, so swirling around in your Marylebone and ask a the kitchen simply could anepicureanodyssey.com glass, naturally coming up friendly member of staff @rovingsommelier not function without our to room temperature. to assist you. mixers.

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 76 23/11/2017 16:44 TOP NIBBLES BRITISH BLUE CHEESES

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 77 24/11/2017 09:46 Food. at various companies. But it got to the stage that people I don’t want to sell a £5,000 weren’t people, they were bottle of whisky—that’s just units. And I went, right, not really my market. This I’m off. is not a museum, it’s a shop 10—You need to try the Marylebone Gin. Oh my god, it’s fantastic. We don’t normally carry other people’s gins, but it’s so good we’re going to carry that. With ice and a slice of cucumber, it’s heaven.

4—Young people today are 11—A lot of people say, much more willing to “I don’t understand tasting experiment, rather than just notes.” I’ll say, “Okay, Do drinking to get slaughtered, you like tripe?” If they’ve though you wouldn’t think not tried it, I’ll explain how it if you believed some of the it tastes and they’ll say, “Oh red-top media. no, definitely not”—just from a description. I say, 5—I tend to add a tiny bit “So, you do understand of water to whisky. You can taste—that’s all it is.” buy water droppers—don’t take them to the pub, it 12—My absolute favourite looks very dodgy—which whisky is Springbank 15. allow you to put literally It’s my desert island whisky. one drop in. It changes the Though there have been FOOD 2—Vintages are flavour profile greatly. some whiskies released for disappearing. They our 175th anniversary that PHILOSOPHY were always at the top 6—We could have you make that decision harder. STEPHEN end of the market, but arrested for putting ice WORRALL, now they’re supremely cubes in whisky. It just 13—Like every 15-year-old MANAGER OF priced because of the tastes of cold. To get the back in the late seventies, CADENHEAD’S scarcity—they can cost a flavour, you need it at room I used to go to bars in WHISKY SHOP AND lot of money for something temperature. Liverpool and get away with TASTING ROOM that’s not necessarily that buying whisky and soda. But INTERVIEW: ELLIE COSTIGAN The Coach Makers Arms. interesting. You can get 7—We don’t chill-filter I never got drunk on it. For PORTRAIT: JOSEPH FOX really amazing tasting our whisky. To maintain me, alcohol has always been whiskies at five, six, eight consistency, the mass a sociable thing: you sit with We are delighted to announce the opening of our brand new pub in Marylebone. years old, and the price market often chill-filters it friends, talk. I’ve spent many point is usually quite to take the proteins and oils a night drinking, putting Set across three floors The Coach Makers Arms will encompass a bustling ground floor bar, relaxed first floor reasonable. out, so it doesn’t go cloudy. the world to rights. It’s a dining room and our very first cocktail lounge. 1—We are the main outlet Then they add caramel relaxing thing. for Springbank distillers in 3—By law, you have to to replace the colour. It England. At Springbank, age scotch whisky for a doesn’t kill the whisky, but 14—You don’t often get Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner we will be serving a seasonal menu alongside an ecelctic wine list, a plethora 100 per cent of production minimum of three years it’s an unnecessary layer. 175-year-old businesses. of cocktails and a wide range of beers, both in bottles and on draft. is done on site. In the last and it’s got to be done in a Why has Cadenhead’s 10 years or so, it’s more reused spirit or wine cask. 8—I don’t want to sell a endured? I think it’s the than doubled in size— One of my favourite types £5,000 bottle of whisky— mixture of quality and Opening Sunday 3rd December 2017 but without overdoing it. is done in bourbon wood. that’s not really my market. good, old-fashioned They’re never going to go It’s just beautiful—you I sell whisky that people determination not to into mass production. get a really nice balance of want to drink. It’s not a change. 88 Marylebone Lane, London, W1U 2PY | 020 7224 4022 | thecoachmakers.co.uk Our customers want creamy vanillas, oaky notes, museum, it’s a shop. an aged product, and and your distil really comes CADENHEAD’S WHISKY SHOP AND TASTING ROOM The Thomas Cubitt The Orange The Grazing Goat The Alfred Tennyson The Coach Makers Arms everything that comes through, it’s not overly 9—I worked in the fashion 26 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QF with that. dominated by the wood. industry for years and years, whiskytastingroom.com BELGRAVIA PIMLICO MARYLEBONE KNIGHTSBRIDGE MARYLEBONE

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 78 23/11/2017 16:44 The Coach Makers Arms. We are delighted to announce the opening of our brand new pub in Marylebone.

Set across three floors The Coach Makers Arms will encompass a bustling ground floor bar, relaxed first floor dining room and our very first cocktail lounge.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner we will be serving a seasonal menu alongside an ecelctic wine list, a plethora of cocktails and a wide range of beers, both in bottles and on draft.

Opening Sunday 3rd December 2017

88 Marylebone Lane, London, W1U 2PY | 020 7224 4022 | thecoachmakers.co.uk

The Thomas Cubitt The Orange The Grazing Goat The Alfred Tennyson The Coach Makers Arms BELGRAVIA PIMLICO MARYLEBONE KNIGHTSBRIDGE MARYLEBONE

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 79 23/11/2017 16:44 Health. there is an almost infinite variety of human sizes, this can sometimes be difficult, and occasionally impossible. 3D printing technology allows us to create implants tailored to specific patients.

Can you give us an example? There are examples where someone’s joint is malformed, either from birth or through trauma What was it that Are you involved in this or disease. One patient first attracted you to research? had an accident 20 years orthopaedic surgery? Yes, working as a surgeon ago which smashed his I specialise in hip and I was encountering pelvis and left it in an knee problems and I significant problems with abnormal position. He love the fact it is a very orthopaedic implants, came to us because his technical field. It which got me interested mobility was deteriorating combines the complexities in research. The more and he was in increasing of working with load- involved I got in research, pain. We designed and bearing and moving the more interesting it fitted a bespoke hip PROFESSOR parts of the human body became—and now I spend implant and he is now ALISTER HART and the processes and half my time in research walking without crutches materials involved in and the other half in for the first time in 11 Consultant designing and fitting surgery. years. In this case, the orthopaedic surgical implants. I standard implants were surgeon at The love the topographical What has been the simply not feasible, so a nature of the field. The biggest change in the custom-made implant was London Clinic complexities are what field in your time? the only option. explores the impact interested me—I think The biggest change has of 3D printing all medics like problem- been the advent of 3D Is this the only way you on the world of solving. printing technology. It use the technology? fits with the broader idea No. We are also using orthopaedics What kind of problems of personalised medicine 3D printer technology INTERVIEW: VIEL RICHARDSON do you face? and has made inroads in to make guides that help PORTRAIT: ORLANDO GILI How do you get a hip orthopaedics in recent with the planning and replacement to last for years. There is still some performance of implant a lifetime? Why does resistance to its use in surgery. For example, if one particular type of certain scenarios, but the we are taking the head off implant fail and another possibilities it opens up for a thigh bone in a hip ball succeed? What is the best the creation of implants replacement procedure, way to secure an implant? are incredible. we need to know precisely Which materials are best where and at what angle to for them? These are just How is it impacting on make the cut. The more a few of the questions the field? accurate this is, the easier we ask, and the answer Traditionally the implants it is to place the stem of can vary from patient we use in hip and knee the implant in the right to patient. What did the replacement surgery are position. patient do to the implant, mass-produced in a range We use CT scanning and can we learn from of standard sizes. As a images to precisely plan their experiences, both surgeon, you choose the the cut. Using these scans good and bad? These are closest size to the one you we can design physical complex questions, which need and then do your guides that fit snugly to we need more research to best to fit it in the optimal the patient’s bone. Once understand. position. But because in place, they are used

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 80 23/11/2017 16:44 to guide the cutting instrument, resulting in a I love the topographical very accurate cut. nature of orthopaedics.

The complexities are How does this technology what interest me—I think work with standard all medics like problem- implants? solving Using guides actually gets the best out of the standard implants by making it easier to fit them in the most advantageous position. It adds a few minutes to each operation but can add as many as 20 years to the life of the implant. This is commonly done in knee operations and less so with the hip, but we still probably have more experience using it in hip operations than anybody else in the world.

How does the design process work? First we take a CT scan that will give us an extremely detailed map of the area and image of the bones. With that information I design the implant and plan the length and directions of the screws needed to hold the implant in place. Then we send a 3D image of the design with the implant and all the specifications to the facility who will print the implant.

How does the communication between you and the implant manufacturer work? We exchange 3D images, which you can rotate to examine the design from all angles, then we discuss the specifics via Skype. After this, they print a model in plastic which they send to me. This way I can check it is exactly what I want before giving the go-ahead. As well as a final check, the model is extremely useful in

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 81 23/11/2017 16:44 Health. a hand into a glove. There is only one way to wear a glove, with every finger in We designed and the corresponding finger of the glove, whereas mittens can accept fingers fitted a bespoke that are injured, swollen and even overlapping. If a hip implant bespoke printed implant does not fit exactly, most of it will not actually be in and the patient contact with the bone. In the case of hip implants, is now walking this means that some of the implant edges will protrude from the bone without crutches where they can catch on muscles and tendons. So for the first time the extra level of accuracy from the bespoke implant demands an extra level in 11 years of accuracy from the surgeon.

Where do you think this technology will be in five years’ time? We are at the start of a revolution, no question. This will be used for planning operations to make them easier and the implants last longer. The planning the procedure and stainless steel, neither So are there any planning of the procedure with any other surgeons of which will directly stick downsides to this is just as important as involved. This is important to bone, so you need some technology? the implants themselves because, especially with type of cement between The whole process and 3D printing makes it hip replacement surgery, the two. takes longer and it’s a easier to get both of these we are working close to bit more complex. You more accurate, which has some extremely important Why not use only need extremely accurate a hugely beneficial impact arterial routes, nerve titanium? imaging or the whole on the longevity of the pathways and internal Titanium is softer than process won’t work, so implant. organs, which could easily the others and not strong that is an extra step for the None of what we have get damaged. enough to withstand the patient. Then you have talked about would be load-bearing pressures to design each implant possible without good Is there a preferred of a knee or hip joint. individually and arrange imaging, and as imaging material for orthopaedic We have to use other to get them printed. technology improves, the implants? materials such as ceramic, Another downside is process will become even Titanium is our preferred stainless steel or cobalt perhaps more surprising. more effective, cheaper material for two reasons. chrome for those load- If you print a perfectly and more widespread. The first is that it is very bearing parts. These are fitted implant but fail to Further research will also friendly to bones. Implants connected to a titanium fit it in precisely the right discover new materials made from titanium will support structure. Most position, it will actually and new ways of securing stick to bone, which means implants will be made of be worse for the patient the implants. It is a very you can design something more than one material to than fitting a standard exciting time to be an that will perfectly mirror harness the best qualities implant. An implant orthopaedic surgeon. the topography of the for fixation and the best shaped to fit the bone THE LONDON CLINIC bone. The other metals qualities for movement precisely will only fit in 20 Devonshire Place, W1G 6BW we use are cobalt chrome and longevity. one position, like putting thelondonclinic.co.uk

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 82 23/11/2017 16:44 mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 83 23/11/2017 16:44 Health. which can evolve over time—accurately describe their feelings, but just as importantly it will give them a sense of control, which will be absolutely crucial to them engaging with the process. I have found this really helps, as parents can check on the young person’s ‘colour’ perhaps twice a day without it becoming a big thing, and the young person will know PEACE for parents. The adult something like, “Let me how the parent is likely who realises that their know when you feel ready to react to each answer. OF MIND child may be developing and we can talk about what Once this clear mode of Dr Hayley van a problem often feels at help you would like me to communication has been a loss about what steps to provide.” This might not established, that would Zwanenberg, child take. It is always best to seem enough when the be the time to broach the and adolescent talk to the young person urge is to do something subject of bringing them psychiatrist and and let them know you are more proactive, but that to us for professional group associate worried about them. Tell calm, supportive first support. them you have noticed response is crucial. People often think medical director of a recent change—such There is a good chance that it is difficult getting The Priory Group, as them struggling with that the young person adolescents to come in on how parents can sleep or pulling back will initially struggle for treatment, but the vast best approach young from their usual activities to communicate with majority are relieved to be with friends—and ask if you, so something I here. The Priory Wellbeing people who may be something is worrying often recommend is the Centre has a very discreet, struggling them. adoption of a traffic light relaxed environment and INTERVIEW: VIEL RICHARDSON It is very important system for them to tell most people who come to do this in a calm and you how they feel. ‘Green’ here are glad to be in a supportive manner that could mean they are happy place dedicated to helping does not make them feel and having a normal day. them get better. I have pressured in any way, ‘Amber’ could mean they occasionally had some otherwise the young are not feeling great, come in very reluctantly person could become that perhaps they have but after that first visit, more reluctant to talk. seen some unpleasant they are happy to return. Leading consultants, It is an unfortunate Asking if there is anything comments on social The wonderful thing fact that the number of they would like you to do is media, or fallen out with about our Wellbeing compassionate care, children and adolescents a good way of showing that a friend. It suggests that Centres is that you can traditional values. we see struggling with you are concerned while you shouldn’t worry too see them making huge mental health issues is letting them feel they have much but perhaps ought to differences to the young From the moment you set foot increasing. Some young a measure of control. keep a closer eye on them people we work with. With people end up struggling If things are more than normal. ‘Red’ could our highly trained staff in The London Clinic, you are with these issues or serious and you discover, mean that those feelings giving the appropriate entering a hospital that is dedicated their consequences into for example, that they that lead to self-harm are treatment, they start to putting our patients first, and setting adulthood—but the are self-harming, it is present, so try to keep enjoying their lives again, the standards for the end to end patient good news is that early extremely important not to them busy, distract them doing better at school and experience in private medical care. intervention can make a overreact. It is critical that as best you can, and don’t being happier at home. real difference, allowing your first response is calm leave them on their own Through these centres, it them to put the problem and supportive. Explain until the feelings pass. is possible for them to start behind them and get on that you realise they must It is very important that the journey to getting their with their lives. really be struggling to the young person plays a lives back. Approaching child be doing this and that central role in creating this Find out more at PRIORY WELLBEING CENTRE and adolescent mental you want to help them. system. Firstly, it ensures 41 Harley Street, W1G 8QH www.thelondonclinic.co.uk health issues can be tricky Approach them with that the definitions— priorygroup.com

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 84 23/11/2017 16:44 Leading consultants, compassionate care, traditional values.

From the moment you set foot in The London Clinic, you are entering a hospital that is dedicated to putting our patients first, and setting the standards for the end to end patient experience in private medical care.

Find out more at www.thelondonclinic.co.uk

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 85 23/11/2017 16:44 Space. Gloucester Place is, how know better: rather than you can’t cross it safely; the speeding up journey same with Baker Street,” times, urban gyratory he explains. Cars and systems slow them down, vans have for decades forcing drivers to follow dominated these two long, unnaturally long routes or wide, one-way streets, else attempt to circumvent which slice north to south the flow through awkward through the heart of turning manoeuvres and Marylebone. Pedestrians rat-runs down side streets. are forced to either submit More importantly, they to the meagre provision of are a blight upon the local crossing points or else dive environment. On Baker perilously into a sea Street and Gloucester of traffic. Place, vehicles sit across TWO “I mentioned this to four lanes, revving at the Simon Loomes at The lights before blasting DIRECTIONS Portman Estate,” says Paul. at speed down to the The Baker Street “He just smiled and said: next set of lights, where ‘Don’t worry: we have a they sit and rev again— Two Way project, plan.’” devastating for pollution which began in This plan—now known levels and terrifying for earnest earlier as the Baker Street Two pedestrians confronted this year, is set to Way project—had already by scenes more befitting been several years in of a 1970s Los Angeles cop transform the feel the making. In 2008, film than a quiet London of large swathes The Portman Estate neighbourhood. of Marylebone. had commissioned Jan Paul concurred with The Journal traces Gehl, a renowned Danish The Portman Estate that architect and urban design a change was desperately its development consultant, to produce an needed. “I agreed that WORDS: MARK RIDDAWAY assessment of the public making the roads two-way realm on the western would solve the crossing side of Marylebone. The problem and make the Estate’s aspiration was to place more civilised,” he “encourage a rebalancing says. “I think the stop-start of the use of public space nature of the traffic—the between pedestrians way that cars zoom from on the one hand and junction to junction— vehicles, which have makes this not a pleasant come to dominate, on the place to be. I also thought other”. One of the report’s that you could make the recommendations was entire public realm better particularly compelling: at the same time.” Cynthia the Baker Street- Poole, the planning Back in 2011, when Paul Gloucester Place gyratory committee chair at the keen for something radical Neville volunteered to system needed to go. St Marylebone Society, to be done. When the Baker join the Marylebone Quietly but determinedly, which represents residents Street Quarter Partnership, Association committee the Estate set about trying north of Marylebone Road, the area’s business and take responsibility to make that happen. agreed: “The gyratory has improvement district (BID), for its traffic and city In 1961, when the always been the worst thing was launched in 2013, management brief, he area’s gyratory system was about this area. Where its chief executive Penny quickly became aware of a installed, the orthodoxy I live, it turns us into an Alexander was met with a particular source of angst was that these large single- island in a sea of traffic.” consistent message from the among local residents. direction highways would Businesses on and local businesses that fund “When I started in the role, benefit drivers, whose around Baker Street, an and direct the BID. “When the first wave of complaints needs at the time were area with a high proportion we started, we began doing I heard from members considered absolutely of commercial tenants, research into what they was about how dangerous paramount. We now were, it turned out, equally would like to change, and

86—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 86 23/11/2017 16:44 Artist’s impression of the Baker Street / Portman Square junction from early 2019

traffic dominance was right was highly supportive of reconfiguration of the the authority’s decision up there,” says Penny. “In the plan. But for anything Piccadilly gyratory system to commit funding even fact, it was the number one to happen, considerable had resulted in fewer traffic easier. “Our aspirations priority of our members and public funding would be jams and bottlenecks, and were a very good fit with their staff for the first three needed, together with a a far more pedestrian- TfL’s aspirations, and I years of our existence.” fairly epic commitment of friendly environment. The think from their point Between them, the both time and resources. appetite for change was of view it was useful to Baker Street Quarter The timing, though, unquestionably there. have local stakeholders Partnership and The was propitious: a shift in TfL would doubtless who were willing to put Portman Estate were philosophy at Transport have eventually got round themselves behind it, both willing to pledge millions for London meant that to Baker Street, but, says by speaking up for the idea of pounds to the proposed gyratory systems all over Penny, the backing of both and putting money into it. two-way scheme, and London were already the local BID and one of Together, it meant that it Westminster City Council under scrutiny. A similar the historic estates made would definitely happen.”

87—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 87 23/11/2017 16:44 Space. three separate waves, was We’re full of gratitude long and intense. to those individuals who Almost inevitably, took so much time to give there were disagreements. constructive feedback “When we first saw the on the scheme, and plans, we had some continue to do so. They reservations,” says Paul. really care—this is their “The main one for us was home, so of course they that they wanted to stop do—and as local residents vehicles turning left at the they understand better top of Gloucester Place than anyone how their onto Marylebone Road, area works.” While TfL which would have meant and Westminster had traffic filtering through sophisticated modelling the more residential left tools at their disposal, turns along there instead.” something that seems On the St Marylebone simple when viewed in the Society’s patch, north of abstract can prove to be Marylebone Road, the much more problematic rather knotty alignment when the unique of streets made the risk of conditions at street level unintended consequences are take into account, so particularly fraught. the input of residents and “Everyone was concerned business was essential. about traffic being driven Without their involvement into the smaller streets. the final plan would have We’re already blighted by been very different—and very high pollution and considerably less effective. congestion, so anything Work has now begun that did that was fiercely in earnest on preparing So happen it did, slowly Road itself. Entirely opposed,” says Cynthia. the area’s roads for the but surely. The logistics different parts of TfL have While some residents change, and it will continue were far from simple: responsibility for cycle began their own vociferous until early 2019, when the major traffic projects are lanes and bus routes. A campaign in objection gyratory system will finally notoriously difficult to carry lot of voices needed to be to the scheme, the be confined to history. Most out in central London—no heard and a lot of priorities two amenity societies people now seem relatively section of road exists in balanced. started intensive talks content. “There are some a vacuum, so any change The initial plans for the with Westminster and who are very pleased, sends out ripples (and Baker Street Two Way were TfL. “While the protest some who are just glad it’s sometimes waves) like a published in May 2015. And were going on, we were done with, and a few who rock being chucked in a then the hard work really having constructive will never think it’s a good pond—and the occasionally began: convincing the discussions—I think idea,” says Cynthia. “But competing needs of vehicles public. “It’s a big change, we had the same broad that is always the way.” and pedestrians, residents and residents wanted to aim, just a difference of The work won’t stop and businesses, bikes and be reassured that this approach,” says Paul. Bit by when the two-way traffic cars, all need to be taken was being done properly, bit, the plan was amended starts, with TfL and into account, meaning with the right intentions, to take into account most Westminster having that no plan will ever be and that it wasn’t going to of the concerns raised committed to a six-month universally perfect. The damage their roads,” says by both associations, monitoring phase to bureaucracy was also a Penny. “From the outset, including amendments ensure that any unintended challenge: Westminster Westminster was insistent to the Gloucester Place consequences are dealt is responsible for Baker that this scheme should not turning and to the Ivor with. “We were adamant Street and Gloucester push traffic onto residential Place and Rossmore Road that proper monitoring Place south of Marylebone streets—that would not intersections, which had should be part of the plan,” Road; Transport for be acceptable—but the caused particular anxieties. says Penny. “We will go back London is responsible for challenge, understandably, “The two amenity and look at this once it’s the northerly sections of was to get people to believe societies were definitely in—it’s a complex scheme, the same roads, plus the that.” The consultation listened to,” says Penny. and we know it won’t be behemoth of Marylebone process, which came in “Changes were made. perfect from day one.”

88—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 88 23/11/2017 16:44 The Baker Street / Park Road junction Opposite top: the Baker Street / Marylebone Road junction Opposite bottom: the Baker Street / Blandford Street junction

The amenity societies us nor the Estate could live Baker Street rather than will remain resolute in with that: we are still all the more residential We’re not going holding the authorities to neighbours. Much though Gloucester Place. anywhere, The Portman account. “We think they’ll it was a difficult process, Within a few years, the Estate isn’t going respond, and we’ll put with some heated meetings expectation is that both anywhere. These are our pressure on them if they and some points that we roads will look and feel neighbours, these are don’t,” confirms Cynthia. didn’t all fully agree on, very different to today. people we see all the time, The St Marylebone Society we have all ended up still “Currently, as a pedestrian, so it would be a complete is carrying out its own friends.” you feel like you’re walking failure if after going pollution monitoring, in Concerns about traffic down an A-road; sitting in through this process, partnership with Imperial have, says Penny, somewhat a pavement café you feel residents felt they hadn’t College London, and is overshadowed the main like you’re sitting at the been listened to even planning its own point of the exercise. The side of a motorway,” says assessment of traffic flows. flow of vehicles should be Penny. “The ambience, Both she and Paul are smoother and the resulting the feel of the streets, is just reassured by the ongoing emissions marginally lower, moving around by foot.” so unwelcoming. Visitors involvement of the Baker but there won’t be fewer As part of the scheme, put their heads down and Street Quarter Partnership cars on the road, or fewer pavements will be widened, march through, residents and The Portman Estate. roads with cars on—that trees planted, unnecessary find other routes. In the “We’re not going anywhere, was never really a possibility. road signs removed, future, we expect that the the Estate isn’t going “I think partly because of dozens more pedestrian retail offering will evolve anywhere,” agrees Penny. the project’s name—Baker crossings installed. Major and people will hopefully “These are our neighbours, Street Two Way—there’s improvements will be choose to spend time here.” these are people we see all an assumption that this made to the awful crossing Baker Street will be two- the time, so it would be a is all about traffic, and it’s outside Baker Street station. way—but metaphorically complete failure if after not. It’s actually all about Buses will be able to head at least, it is only heading in going through this process, the pedestrian experience. both ways on both streets, one direction. residents felt they hadn’t This is all about improving making access easier, and BAKER STREET TWO-WAY been listened to. Neither the environment for people more buses will run along bakerstreettwoway.co.uk

89—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 89 23/11/2017 16:44 Preside MJ Proof 02 18_03_14.pdf 1 18/03/2014 11:36

Space.

ASK THE EXPERTS Paul Thomson, head of lettings at Druce Marylebone You can tell our

Do I require a specific buildings from tenancy agreement to run a business out of my those managed by rented apartment? If the tenancy is taken C our competitors out in an individual’s M

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at the address. You should PROPERTY OF THE CY not have paying clients MONTH CMY visiting you, either. Once SHILLIBEER PLACE you start using a property K for business purposes, you Tim Fairweather on a gem have to take into account of a home hiding in a quiet insurance, health and Marylebone mews safety, and business rates. Preside Residential block & estate management As such, you require a license. This is a wonderful house, The spacious, well-proportioned Are there certain interior positioned on a quiet mews street. accommodation is set over three Celebrating 30 years experience & local knowledge trends that might make a It would be perfect for a small family floors and there is also a secure acquired from operating in West One property more attractive or for someone who needs a secure underground residents’ car park in to a potential tenant? base in London. The property has the basement, with space to store We strongly recommend just undergone a major redecoration bicycles. wood flooring, neutral with stunning results. The design This property is wonderfully Preside, One Hinde Street, Marylebone, décor, modern appliances, makes great use of natural light located for the world class amenities London W1U 2AY an open plan kitchen throughout, giving the spacious of Marylebone Village and the West and built-in storage. We interior a light, airy feel. End, as well as the green spaces of www.preside.co.uk are seeing a lot more The property is to the rear of the Hyde Park and Regent’s Park. It is very T: 020 7224 0011 technology go into Court House development, so enjoys well served by transport connections, E: [email protected] properties, such as Sonos all the security benefits of having a including Edgware Road, Marylebone sound systems and lighting caretaker on standby. One of the nice and Marble Arch underground controlled via an app. While things about the property is that it has stations, and Marylebone and these are great to have, the its own street entrance, giving it the Paddington railway stations. more expensive technology feel of an independent house, while SANDFORDS involved, the higher the retaining the advantages of being 6 Paddington Street. W1U 5QG running costs are. part of a modern development. sandfords.com

90—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 90 23/11/2017 16:44 Preside MJ Proof 02 18_03_14.pdf 1 18/03/2014 11:36

You can tell our buildings from those managed by C our competitors M

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mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 91 23/11/2017 16:44 Space. What gives Prime Metro Do you have any advice an edge? for landlords in those We are a small independent slower months? agency, thriving in a very I would say, try to make corporate lettings market. sure your property is We provide the exposure available in time for the of a larger agency, but summer peak, so you have with a very personable the best opportunity to get touch. From a landlord’s the highest price. Make perspective, we are very sure your property is ready consistent in what we for viewing. That might do. There are very few be a matter of clearing out properties we take on that old furniture—an empty we don’t rent out. Our flat is better than bad incentive is the same as furniture—or sometimes How did you come to the landlord’s—to rent it’s better to spend money work at Prime Metro? out their property at the on dressing a flat. Make I started out working for best possible price—and sure your property is a large, publicly-listed we’re very in tune with priced correctly and company, before I spotted the market to ensure that ensure you receive regular the opening here on Baker happens, even if it means updates from your agent— Street. I’ve always had an adjusting expectations. ask what the feedback interest in real estate and From the tenant’s is from applicants and enjoyed closing deals. I perspective, we offer a very if there is none, ask why had a really good feeling personalised service. We there are so few viewings. NOEL about the company, so take applicants under our You employ an agent to LAKE-JOHNS I jumped on board and wing and show them the give professional advice, so haven’t looked back. I’ve best quality properties to seek it! The lettings worked here nearly three suit their needs. A good manager at Prime years. applicant is valuable to us What sort of properties Metro Properties and to our landlords, so we do you deal with? What are your day-to-day want to make sure we do A range: from studios for on relationship responsibilities? the utmost to source them £330 to £350 per week, all building, I manage the lettings side a property. the way up to the higher Marylebone’s of the business. I have to end with properties summer peak and motivate my team, make What’s the lettings listed at £3,500 per week, sure they understand market like in sometimes more. We the importance of what’s expected of them Marylebone? recently rented out a lovely sensible pricing and how best to achieve When I started here, prices four-bedroom property INTERVIEW: ELLIE COSTIGAN those goals. I spend a lot were very high on the in a block overlooking PORTRAIT: ALICE MANN of time on compliance— rental side, but they have Regent’s Park. It has a making sure that before adjusted over time. fantastic finish: I could see we close a file, everything We had a very busy it as a real bachelor pad, that’s meant to be in summer—September or even a family home. there—as well as following was phenomenal—but It’s absolutely stunning. the strict referencing that is quite typical of the Technically we cover most procedures for applicants. Marylebone market. We of central London, but There are fun sides to the have a lot of universities in we tend to specialise in role as well: we actively try the area—Westminster, Marylebone—though to take on new properties, London Business School, we often spill over into whether that’s speaking to Regent’s University and Fitzrovia and Bayswater. porters or going through others—so during the the database we’ve collated summer we get an influx What are the advantages over several years. One of students looking for of Marylebone over other of the great things about properties. It’s also the central areas? Prime Metro Properties is time of the year when new The fact that it’s prime that anyone can work on graduates are searching for central London, yet feels client development if they properties, as well as lots of like a village with lots of so choose. working professionals. boutiques and bars, is

92—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 92 23/11/2017 16:44 key. It feels like a family Do you have many repeat it’s a small world, so it’s place, but you’re moments clients? important that we are We know our landlords from Oxford Street. You Yes, we know our landlords proactive. You have to well and they appreciate can get to Paddington well and they appreciate speak to your landlords how personable we are. within minutes, so how personable we are. throughout, market It’s a people-orientated there’s easy access to the It’s a people-orientated properties correctly, business, so in order to Heathrow Express. It’s business, so in order to invest in the right kind build those relationships very convenient. There build those relationships of photographs and you have to hold yourself have been instances when you have to be professional make sure you’re doing to a very high standard we’ve done searches for and hold yourself to a very everything you can to get people who’ve specifically high standard. Credibility these properties rented, requested Mayfair, and in is very important when because if you don’t do the end Marylebone was it comes to choosing your job properly, another the more appealing option. an estate agency and agent will beat you to it. And we can’t let that happen.

You’re a relatively young company, having only been around for five years. What are your intentions for the future? My vision is to make our bustling lettings team even more dynamic, and I want us to continue to work on expanding our client base. I think the price adjustments that were going to happen have now happened, and things are currently looking pretty stable, so we need to continue to focus on providing a personal touch. We are very much an independent agent, which these days is becoming rarer and rarer, so building those personal relationships is central to what we do.

What’s the best part of your job? It sounds a bit cliched, but meeting new people every day. There’s a really social element to being a lettings negotiator. Landlords are quick to become friends, and the variety of people we meet is amazing. I speak to a lot of interesting people from all around the world.

PRIME METRO PROPERTIES 73 Baker Street, W1U 6R primemetro.co.uk

93—marylebonejournal.com

mj_magazine_volume13_06_compendium.indd 93 23/11/2017 16:44 sandfords.com

David McGuinness Fiona Lilley Property Consultant SHILLIBEER PLACE £2,395,000 Lettings Manager MANSFIELD STREET £2,750 PER WEEK + FEES [email protected] LONDON, W1 SOLE AGENT / LEASEHOLD [email protected] LONDON, W1 FURNISHED

MARYLEBONE OFFICE MARYLEBONE OFFICE A wonderfully presented three bedroom mews house, ideally positioned along this quiet A fabulous newly refurbished contemporary apartment set within this prestigious and highly 6 Paddington Street mews off Crawford Street. 6 Paddington Street Marylebone Marylebone sought after secure block in Marylebone Village. London W1U 5QG The current owners have undertaken a major redecoration project of the entire house London W1U 5QG The property benefits from being renovated to a high specification including polished parquet T: 020 7224 4994 and the end result is stunning, with great plays on natural light throughout. Viewing is T: 020 7224 4994 floors. Comprising an incredibly light and spacious double reception with high ceilings, large E: [email protected] highly recommended in order to appreciate the exceptional space on offer. Along with E: [email protected] windows and feature fireplace, separate fully integrated modern kitchen, large master bedroom the generous and well proportioned accommodation, there is also a secure underground with en suite bathroom featuring twin shower and wash basins, second large double bedroom residents’ car park, with vehicle lift. with hand made fitted wardrobes, additional family bathroom and separate WC. The property Shillibeer Place is superbly located for the world class amenities of Portman Village, benefits from 24 hour concierge and lift. Offered furnished. Marylebone Village and the West End, together with the green open spaces of Hyde Park Mansfield Street is superbly located in this quiet residential street within a few minutes walk and Regent’s Park. Nearby transport links include Edgware Road, Marylebone and to Marylebone High Street, Oxford Street and the open spaces of Regent’s Park. EPC=D. Marble Arch underground stations, Marylebone and Paddington train stations and Potential tenants should be advised that, in addition to rent, a tenancy set up fee of £252 per property plus £30 reference fee per tenant will apply when renting access to Heathrow and the West via the A40. EPC=C. a property. Please contact us for further information on other charges that may apply or see our Tenant Guide which can be downloaded from our website.

MJ Dec 17 Ads Sandfords 94-95.indd 1 23/11/2017 11:08:32 sandfords.com

David McGuinness Fiona Lilley Property Consultant SHILLIBEER PLACE £2,395,000 Lettings Manager MANSFIELD STREET £2,750 PER WEEK + FEES [email protected] LONDON, W1 SOLE AGENT / LEASEHOLD [email protected] LONDON, W1 FURNISHED

MARYLEBONE OFFICE MARYLEBONE OFFICE A wonderfully presented three bedroom mews house, ideally positioned along this quiet A fabulous newly refurbished contemporary apartment set within this prestigious and highly 6 Paddington Street mews off Crawford Street. 6 Paddington Street Marylebone Marylebone sought after secure block in Marylebone Village. London W1U 5QG The current owners have undertaken a major redecoration project of the entire house London W1U 5QG The property benefits from being renovated to a high specification including polished parquet T: 020 7224 4994 and the end result is stunning, with great plays on natural light throughout. Viewing is T: 020 7224 4994 floors. Comprising an incredibly light and spacious double reception with high ceilings, large E: [email protected] highly recommended in order to appreciate the exceptional space on offer. Along with E: [email protected] windows and feature fireplace, separate fully integrated modern kitchen, large master bedroom the generous and well proportioned accommodation, there is also a secure underground with en suite bathroom featuring twin shower and wash basins, second large double bedroom residents’ car park, with vehicle lift. with hand made fitted wardrobes, additional family bathroom and separate WC. The property Shillibeer Place is superbly located for the world class amenities of Portman Village, benefits from 24 hour concierge and lift. Offered furnished. Marylebone Village and the West End, together with the green open spaces of Hyde Park Mansfield Street is superbly located in this quiet residential street within a few minutes walk and Regent’s Park. Nearby transport links include Edgware Road, Marylebone and to Marylebone High Street, Oxford Street and the open spaces of Regent’s Park. EPC=D. Marble Arch underground stations, Marylebone and Paddington train stations and Potential tenants should be advised that, in addition to rent, a tenancy set up fee of £252 per property plus £30 reference fee per tenant will apply when renting access to Heathrow and the West via the A40. EPC=C. a property. Please contact us for further information on other charges that may apply or see our Tenant Guide which can be downloaded from our website.

MJ Dec 17 Ads Sandfords 94-95.indd 2 23/11/2017 11:08:32 Rent a property directly from Rent a property directly from The Howard de Walden Estate The Howard de Walden Estate

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23 Queen Anne Street 23 Queen Anne Street 020 7486 6711 London W1G 9DL London W1G 9DL [email protected] / lettings @mcglashans.co.uk [email protected] [email protected] hdwe.co.uk hdwe.co.uk MEDICAL MEDICAL THE PROGRESS OF THE THE PROGRESS OF THE WORLD FAMOUS HARLEY WORLD FAMOUS HARLEY STREET MEDICAL AREA STREET MEDICAL AREA IS OF GREAT IMPORTANCE IS OF GREAT IMPORTANCE

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For more information please contact For more information please contact Claire Kennedy on +44 (0)20 7290 0970 ClaireChiltern Kennedy Street, on Marylebone, +44 (0)20 W1 7290 0970 £1,750 per week Bryanston Square, Marylebone, W1 £1,420 per week [email protected] [email protected] stunning penthouse apartment. Living/dining with open plan kitchen, A spacious first floor flat with lovely views directly over the square gardens. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, guest cloakroom, study area, good storage, Reception room, kitchen open plan to dining, 2 double bedrooms, lovely large balcony off the living area 2 bathrooms (one en suite), lift, private square gardens

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hdwe_MJAD_rentaproperty_JUNEJULY2017_02.indd 1 24/05/2017 12:54 hdwe_MJAD_rentaproperty_JUNEJULY2017_02.inddMJ dec 17 Ads H de W and McGlashans 96-97.indd 1 2 24/05/201723/11/2017 12:54 10:56:44 020 7486 2321 www.lordestates.com

A grand and imposing property. Seymour Place, W1 A wonderful opportunity to acquire this bright and airy two bedroom apartment on the first floor, tastefully decorated Luxuriously carpeted throughout. with the benefit of tranquil views onto the mews, dual aspect Reception with abundance of natural light throughout, a balcony, a Share of Freehold and an extremely well maintained building. Vincent Court is located within minutes’ walk of all the amenities of Marylebone, including the leisure and shopping facilities of Baker Street, Marylebone High Street and Oxford Street and the open spaces of Hyde Park. EPC=D £1,350,000

MJ Dec 17 Ads Lord and Marsh and Parsons 98-99.indd 1 23/11/2017 11:02:21 dec-jan v1.indd 1 13/11/2017 17:58:43 A grand and imposing property. Luxuriously carpeted throughout.

MJdec-jan Dec 17v1.indd Ads Lord 1 and Marsh and Parsons 98-99.indd 2 23/11/201713/11/2017 11:02:2917:58:43 BRYANSTON SQUARE, LONDON W1 £2,350,000 STC An extremely tasteful apartment in this very sought after portered block SOLE AGENT

The property is situated on the ground floor and has the very rare benefit of French doors from the drawing room and dining room onto the delightfully secluded private gardens. This is a wonderful opportunity for those wanting gracious living, offering all amenities in a completely safe environment with the benefit of reasonable service charges and Share of Freehold. ACCOMMODATION & AMENITIES Entrance Hall * Reception Room Open Plan with Dining Room with French Doors onto the Gardens * Kitchen * 3 Double Bedrooms * 2 Bathrooms 24 Hour Porterage * Private Gardens * Access to Bryanston Square Gardens * Underground Parking available by separate negotiation

GREAT PORTLAND STREET, LONDON W1 £1,600,000 STC A beautifully appointed, bright lateral apartment SOLE AGENT

Situated on the top floor of a handsome period building on the corner of Great Portland Street and Langham Street, with roof top views. The apartment has been newly refurbished throughout and benefits from bike storage and additional storage in the basement. A fantastic apartment, bathed in sunlight in a very cool area, on the cusp of Marylebone and Fitzrovia, so restaurants, bars and transport links aplenty. ACCOMMODATION & AMENITIES Entrance Hall * Open Plan Reception Room/Dining/Kitchen * Master Bedroom with Ensuite Shower Room * 2 Further Double Bedrooms Bathroom * Underfloor Heating in the Reception Areas * Traditional Radiators in the Bedrooms * Oak Flooring *Leasehold 168 Years

RESIDENTIAL SALES, [email protected] LETTINGS AND DRUCE druce.com PROPERTY MANAGEMENT PRIME RESIDENTIAL PROPERTY 020 7935 6535

MJ Dec 17 Ads Druce 100-101.indd 1 23/11/2017 11:00:57 ADMIRAL COURT, BLANDFORD STREET W1 £1,375,000 STC A very spacious 1st Floor, 2 double bedroom apartment SOLE AGENT

Flats in this sought after building rarely come on to the market. Rebuilt behind a Georgian façade, with a private gated entrance & the ability to obtain a Licence to rent a garage space, this home will appeal to a number of people wanting to be close to Marylebone High Street. The apartment affords interesting views onto the cosmopolitan corner of the Chiltern Firehouse & the fashionable boutiques & restaurants this part of Marylebone has to offer. Other benefi ts include high ceilings, large windows and a 155 year lease. ACCOMMODATION & AMENITIES Entrance Hall * Reception Room * Kitchen * Two Double Bedroom * Bathroom * Private Gated Entrance * Passenger Lift

MARYLEBONE’S ONLY PUBLIC CHRISTMAS TREE IS BACK!

Please come and get into the festive spirit with W1 Developments, Druce Estate Agents and Westminster City Council as we switch on our Christmas Tree Lights.

Lights being turned on at 3.30pm as well as Christmas Carol performances by:

St Vincent’s Primary School Choir, local vocalist Lili Phillips and the Orion Orchestra Brass Players

* Festive music by DJ Keith * Delicious food * Mulled Wine * Hot Chocolate * 22 Foot Christmas Tree

THURSDAY 7TH DECEMBER 2017 3PM – 6.15PM THE PADDINGTON STREET GARDENS PARK W1U 5QA

RESIDENTIAL SALES, [email protected] LETTINGS AND DRUCE druce.com PROPERTY MANAGEMENT PRIME RESIDENTIAL PROPERTY 020 7935 6535

MJ Dec 17 Ads Druce 100-101.indd 2 23/11/2017 11:01:09 MJ Dec 17 Ads Portman Est 102-103.indd 1 23/11/2017 10:41:18 THE PORTMAN ESTATE HAS MORE THAN 500 PROPERTIES, FROM COMPACT STUDIO FLATS TO ELEGANT GEORGIAN TOWNHOUSES For enquires please call 020 7563 1400 or email [email protected]

www. portmanestate.co.uk

MJ Dec 17 Ads Portman Est 102-103.indd 2 23/11/2017 10:41:22 JJ&Co Jeremy JamesJeremy and James Company and Company

NEW CAVENDISH STREET, MARYLEBONE VILLAGE, LONDON W1

We are pleased to offer this well proportioned, second floor flat boasting a terrace, in a purpose built block of four flats. It is ideally located on the south side of New Cavendish Street close to the junction with Marylebone High Street. The apartment is light and spacious with the principal reception rooms overlooking New Cavendish Street. Accommodation comprises: Entrance hall * Double reception room Kitchen/breakfast room * Master bedroom with en-suite bathroom and walk in dressing room * Bedroom * Shower room Terrace. Please see website for full details LEASEHOLD APPROX 134YEARS £2,250,000

DEVONSHIRE MEWS SOUTH, MARYLEBONE VILLAGE, LONDON W1

A wonderful four bedroom mews house arranged over 3 floors to rent in this quiet mews situated just off Devonshire Street. The house is presented in extremely good condition having recently been refurbished to a high standard throughout. It boasts two large double bedrooms and a bathroom on the ground floor with a fabulous outdoor patio. On the second floor a spacious open plan space with a contemporary kitchen, dining and reception room with wood flooring throughout and a guest cloakroom. The top floor comprises of a large master bedroom with an en suite bathroom and plenty of storage and another double bedroom and family bathroom. Please note that the garage is not included. Please see website for full details

£1,750 PER WEEK

+44 (0) 20 7486 4111 www.jeremy-james.co.uk [email protected]

MJ Dec 17 Ads Jeremy James 104.indd 1 23/11/2017 11:00:59 carterjonas.co.uk

NEW CAVENDISH STREET Marylebone W1W

A stunning apartment finished to an exceptional standard, close to Marylebone High Street.

Open-plan reception room/kitchen • 2 bedrooms • 2 bathrooms • Study • EPC rating D

Guide price £2,950,000

Marylebone & Regent’s Park 020 7486 8866 [email protected]

HARLEY STREET Marylebone W1G

A superb, newly refurbished apartment in a prime Marylebone location on Harley Street, moments from Regent’s Park and Marylebone High Street.

2 reception rooms • 4 bedrooms • 2 bathrooms • EPC rating B

£1,750 pw*/£7,583.33 pcm*

Marylebone & Regent’s Park 020 7486 8866 [email protected]

*Rent excludes reference and tenancy paperwork fees. Please contact our branch who can provide this information. CHRISTMAS PUDDINGS WE KNOW WHERE TO FIND THE SILVER SIXPENCE

Finding what makes a property special is our forte - we know where to look to find the character feature or potential for improvement that prospective buyers love.

For simply better advice, at Christmas and all year round contact Carter Jonas, whatever your property requirement. carterjonas.co.uk/simplybetteradvice

T: 020 7486 8866 E: [email protected] 37 New Cavendish Street, Marylebone W1G 9TL