Island Nations: Hidden Paradise

HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise

Sandy beach, crystal clear water, palm trees on the shore – is it really possible to visit such paradise? Explore Grenada and Saba in the Caribbean, the Mal- dives, Kiribati or even Taiwan. HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise Mention a vacation in Grenada (pronounced gre-nay-da), and most people think you are Unfamiliar Grenada visiting a city in Spain (gre-nah-da) even if you pronounce the difference very carefully. That is how unfamiliar this three-island nation is, Is Authentic Caribbean located in the southeast Caribbean Sea near Trinidad. Since a government overthrow and brief occupation by US and Caribbean forces that ended in 1984, Grenada has rested peaceably in the deepest shadows of global tourism, a repeat destination mainly to those who would like it to stay that way forever. With strong French and British historical con- nections and easy charter flight access from Europe, the majority of visitors are European. However, new seasonal and year round direct flights from Canada and the US are encourag- ing exploration by those looking for alternative Caribbean horizons where pristine white sand beaches are only one focus of this diverse country. For the active environmentally-conscious traveler, Grenada offers many hiking trails, rainforests, waterfalls and sustainable activi- ties. Development in Grenada has been delib- erately unobtrusive. With none of the country's hotels (all family owned) allowed to exceed the height of the palm trees, unobstructed views of beautiful surroundings abound from every hillside and lookout. One ninth of the nation is dedicated to wildlife sanctuaries and rainforest parks. Telfor Bedeau is the country's ultimate Grenada's most respected nature guide, Telfor Bedeau, is a 72-year-old nature ambassador with a lifetime of sto- nature ambassador who has spent much of ries to share. Photo credit: Alison Gardner his 72 years hiking, sailing, and rowing around

July – August, 2011 — 5 — Grenada's beaches like Grand Anse are pristine, usually dotted with more bright-coloured fishing boats than vacationers. Photo credit: Alison Gardner

HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise his precious islands. On our hike to the Seven Sisters Waterfall, we talked plants, birds and animals, and how to look after them on these fragile islands. Telfor does guide groups and individuals who share his passion for nature, best contacted through the Grenada Board of Tourism (Grenadagrenadines.com). The country is proud of its nickname, The Spice of the Caribbean, and there is certainly no exaggeration about that claim.W ith its own micro-weather and volcanic soil peculiarities, Grenada has near-perfect growing conditions for nutmeg, allspice, mace, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric and bay leaves. After Indonesia, it is the world's second largest producer of nutmeg and mace so the odds are very high that back home you are seasoning your food with some- Grenada’s multi-cultural capital, St George’s, is a safe and picturesque historic stroll both day and night. thing grown in Grenada. Photo credit: Joshua Yetman There are wonderful opportunities to sam- rental car, visitors can easily spend several days have retained more of a visible French heri- ple delicious local cuisine whether staying at discovering authentic countryside properties tage, not only with their geographical names resorts or smaller local properties.W ith a coun- that offer deeply educational tours and free but also with the patois language and many tryside abundantly sprouting both cultivated tastings, product gift shops and local-menu unique music and dance festivals (Carriacou- and wild fruit and vegetables and fresh fish a restaurants. Not to be missed are the Dou- petitemartinique.com/festivals.html) around major part of the daily diet, the robust health galdston Spice Boucan, the Gouyave Nutmeg which to dovetail a visit. of Grenadians of all ages says a lot about the Processing Station, theL aura Herb & Spice Gar- On the main island of Grenada, I headquar- quality of food accessible to everyone. den, Belmont Estate's cocoa/chocolate opera- tered at the Flamboyant Hotel & Villas, (Flam- Don't miss a traditional "Fish Friday" street tions, and the River Antoine Rum Distillery, in boyant.com) which offers best-value rooms celebration while wandering the antique streets business since 1785. and modern self-catering apartments over- of Grenada's fishing capital, Gouyave. This is Most international travellers explore only the looking Grenada's finest beach, Grand Anse. where locals from all over the main island meet main island of Grenada, though a high speed As well as staff providing excellent service and each other at the many stalls offering creatively- catamaran ferry service (Ospreylines.com) insider advice, there are locally-themed menus cooked, super-fresh seafood delivered in news- makes it easy and efficient to visit the smaller in the beachfront restaurant and weekly steel paper or on paper plates. Visitors are always islands of Carriacou (pop. 5,000) and Petite drum performances. The hotel has special welcome at this colorful local event. Martinique (pop. 1,000) either for the day or offers year round so check the website. Still focusing on cuisine delights, agritourism longer. On Carriacou I stayed at the Grand View richly-laced with history is one of Grenada's Despite the French having given up colonial Hotel, (Carriacougrandview.com) owned by an most attractive features. Best sampled with a ownership to the British in 1763, these islands island couple with a gracious personal style of

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Today a number of islands make up the Repub- lic of China’s rump territory, which although Waiting for Discovery sovereign is still claimed by China. Besides the main island, once called For- mosa (the “Beautiful”) by the early Portuguese seafarers, some volcanic isles emerge off the east coast: Lu dao (Green Island) and Lan yu (Orchard Island), the latter one inhabited by the Austronesian Tao tribe who still hunt flying fish in their tiny colorful boats. The others lie off the continental coast in visible distance to China’s Fujian province (the drowned granite mountains of Kinmen and Matsu), and a unique archipelago bridges the Formosa Strait: Penghu (Pescadores: the “Fish- ermen islands”). Penghu – the undeclared world heritage of a shattered, drowned basalt plateau – recalls a million year long erosion. Tongpan yu (“kettle- dish isle”) juts out with impressive volcanic pillars, with cliffs like pencil-sticks turning away arrivals. Qimei (“Seven Belles”) is also thrill- ing – freshly congealed lava flows are seem- ingly straight away contracting into hexagonal columns. Sea waves have left a miniature map of Taiwan at one corner, while another shore site beguiles with a fish trap. Due to its twin heart shape this stone weir has become a queer landmark attracting throngs of roman- ticists. Sharply contrasting are some rare blazing beaches, composed of coral, shell and radio- Penghu Tongpan isle basalt pillars larian sands on Jibei, where bathers and snor-

July – August, 2011 — 8 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise kelers find a tropical paradise. But Penghu has more: abundant seafood from pristine waters (anchovies, abalone shellfish, squids, crabs …), caught from seawaters or harvested in float- ing farms. The warm waters of Kuroshio cur- rent and their cold counter stream of Oyashio from the north have brought off a rich marine fauna, discovered by those early emigrants from Fujian who in 1604 built the first Matsu temple in thanks to their protectress Mazu. Penghu’s repulsing rock castles are the oldest time window of Taiwan. It was here that some 150 million years ago the Eurasian continent began to break up, allowing magma to creep through the earth crust’s cracks and to form undersea pancake plateaus. Only later has the Central Mountain chains emerged from their heavy deepwater sediment charge that today form the main island’s backbone. Densely industrialized and populated (with over 23 million people on 36.000 km2 ), Taiwan has become a global player, but also retains an abidingly bucolic appearance. Nothing could subdue the sensitive nature, neither strong Kenting Chenggong festival trade winds and summer monsoons, humidity and heat, typhoons, flooding and earthquakes, country’s largest seaport. Nearby on Gaoping trails, and far-flung settlements inhabited by nor the overall exploitation by man, instead River, Tang palace-style halls remind of the mountain people such as the Baiwan tribe at silent sensations are hidden all around. bygone Golden Age of Buddhism at Foguang Maolin or Shandimen. For example the world’s single museum of Shan (“Buddha Light Mountain”) monastery, The island’s southern tip is preserved in full-fledged Chinese culture (the old Palace a remarkable international Mahayana center Kenting National Park (one out of eight NPs) Museum) or the 101 skyscraper in the capital combining Eight Schools of Chinese Buddhism. surprising with tropical flora, beaches and a city Taipei. Or the 17th century heritage sites On the adjacent forelands extend the fields bustling resort. Its cramped tourism is now of Dutch traders in Tainan. Or the green-blue of Meinong, home of southern Taiwan’s Hakka competing with Sun-Moon Lake, the classic belts of the Ocean City Kaohsiung. Once the community. Their backdrop is the towering uplands highlight in the very center, or with key site of heavy industry and pollution, old Central Mountain Range, which has overall 165 Taroko gorge, the awe inspiring marble ravine Takao (Kaohsiung) attracts now with forested peaks of over 3000m above sea level (Mount to the northeast. As spectacular the diversified coral hills and open waterfronts along the Jade: 3952m), steep valleys, spectacular hiking sceneries are, as exciting are the ethnics, their

July – August, 2011 — 9 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise (the “HuangHe – LuoHe” people) whose last homeland once was southern Fujian. Next to the diverse vernaculars come the gaudy temples with their hard to discern dei- ties and protectors that contrast with the more prosaic multi-denominational churches mainly spread across the mountainous regions. Han cultures, intermingled in noisy festivals, are also experienced in drama performing street the- atres, or demonstrated by the countless pilgrim streams that satisfy minds and economies alike. How many Mazu birthdays are celebrated throughout the year, and how lavish is the Hanging bridge at Dongbu pomp for “King of Yue” who is sent to the sea in gorgeous boats flaring off in untamed cultures, languages and religions, evidencing seawaters? Along with the ancient Austrone- an enviable harmony. Some 12,000 years ago sian cultures the classic Han Chinese heritage the earliest dwellers had arrived, followed by has miraculously survived, embedded in an those Austronesians who had spread all over enchanting nature with lush vegetation (ban- the endless Indo-Pacific oceans. Taiwan had yan trees, the dateless false cypresses and www.caucasusexplorer.com become their northernmost destination, con- hinoki trees …), abundant wildlife (muntjacs, tested only thousands of years later, when in Formosan Sika deer, black bears, pangolins, 17th century Han-Chinese immigrants arrived. Macaque monkeys …) and exotic sceneries. More Chinese settlers followed after 1875, Taiwan is truly a gateway of discovery. as well as after World War II (the “external provincials” or waishengren) when Japan’s By Dr. Engelbert Altenburger 50-year long rule had ended. The social amal- I-Shou University, ass. prof. at the Faculty of Interna- gamation now shows a mixture of 2% “aborigi- tional Business, Kaohsiung, Taiwan, nes”, 14% Hakka (Kejia) and 70% ho-lo-lan [email protected]

July – August, 2011 — 10 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise The Maldives – Remarkable Mix of Cultures Maldives has deep blue seas, turquoise reefs, white sandy beaches and palm trees. While it is the perfect place to sit on a beach and watch a sunset with a cocktail balanced on your hand, it is also a geographical marvel, know- ing that there are thousands of fish swimming around the vivid corals just a few feet away from where you sit.

Coral Reefs The Maldives lies in two rows of atolls in the Indian Ocean, just across the equator. The country is made up of 1,190 coral islands formed around 26 natural ring-like atolls, spread over 90,000 square kilometers. These atolls structures are formed upon a sharp ridge rising from the ocean, making way for their secluded uniqueness. Each atoll in the Maldives is made of a coral reef encircling a lagoon, with deep channels dividing the reef ring. A string of islands take their places among this atoll ring; each island has its own reef encircling the island lagoon. The reefs of the islands, alive with countless types of underwater creatures and vibrant corals, pro- tect the islands from wind and wave action of the surrounding vast oceans. This unique struc- ture of reefs and channels makes navigation almost impossible for the passer-by without suf- ficient information about these waters.

July – August, 2011 — 11 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise the genes passed on by South and Southeast Asians, Africans, and Arabians. The language, Dhivehi, differs in dialect in some regions in the south of Maldives, possibly due to the secluded nature and subsistent ways of island life. Maldivian beliefs have been very much based around religion and superstition, often used together in matters of significance but given separate positions in society. In matters of faith, Islam dominates, but influence of the supernatural still continues to play a major role in most island communities, possibly giving credit to the folklores and Buddhist traditions of the islands’ first settlers before conversion to Islam in 1153 AD. Ninety-nine percent of the Maldives is made The Locals up of sea. The people of the islands are widely Unique Arts dispersed across the atolls, with about 200 Maldivians are quite open to adaptation inhabited islands. About 90 islands are devel- The mixing of cultures is very much seen in and are generally welcoming to outside oped as tourist resort and the rest are unin- Maldivian arts. The music played with the local inspiration. The culture has always contin- habited or used for agriculture and other liveli- bodu-beru (big-drum) resemble that of Afri- ued to evolve with the times. Locals still eat hood purposes. can drumming. The dhoni (a unique Maldivian fish and fishermen still spend days out at sailboat) is an art form itself built with skilled sea, but tourism now takes a standing promi- nence. Most Maldivians still want to believe Mix of Cultures craftsmanship, with significant similarities to the Arabian dows. in upholding unity and oneness in faith, but The islands of Maldives appear in-between recent waves of reform in the country have The fine artistry of Maldivians, seen in the created a whole new culture of new ideas the trading route of the Indian Ocean. Thus intricate details on wooden beams in antique settlers, and visitors from neighbouring regions and attitudes. The effects of the modern mosques, represents what we have gained world are now embraced, while still striving and around the world have come in contact from Southeast Asian architecture. Then with the islands for as long as history has been to uphold the people’s identity, traditions there is the undefined: the distinct geometric and beliefs. recorded. Such is the to-and-fro flow of peo- designs used in mats woven from local mate- ple and their cultures, that a marked effect rials, the embroidered neckline of women’s has been left in the Maldivian people, the lan- traditional dresses and their ornaments too, guage, beliefs, arts, and attitudes. expose another story brought in from an The looks of the Maldivian people may dif- unknown culture that has seeped in to Mal- Photos: Visit Maldives fer from one atoll to the other, attributing to divian society. http://www.visitmaldives.com/en

July – August, 2011 — 12 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise Kiribati (pronounced Kiribas) is an indepen- dent republic within the Commonwealth of Kiribati: Atolls, Lagoons Nations, located in the central Pacific Ocean, about 4,000 km (about 2,500 mi) southwest of Hawaii. It is part of the division of the Pacific and Battles islands that is known as Micronesia. Kiribati consists of 33 coral islands divided among three island groups: the Gilbert Islands, the Phoenix Islands, and the Line Islands. Kiribati is for travellers – those who have a passion for exploring and discovering, people who like an adventure off the tourist trail to places where few have been before, and people who want to understand a country – not just see it. Kiribati will challenge your view of how life should be and show you a less com- plicated way of living where family and community come first. Situated in the equatorial pacific, in the east Kiribati offers world class fishing (both game and bone fishing) from Kiritimati Island. In the west is the Gilbert Group of islands, which offer amazing and unique cultural experiences.

Bone and Sports Fishing Whether you prefer the deep blue waters with big game fish, or prefer the crystalline waters and serenity of saltwater flyfishing,K iribati is the destination for you. One big reason anglers come to Kiribati though is the mighty bonefish – by fly or saltwater spin, Kiritimati (Christmas) Island is the place to be. There's also some world class game fishing, having obtained many International Game Fishing World Records, the waters in Kiribati are open for international anglers to try their

July – August, 2011 — 13 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise while walking and flying. The costumes are made out of local materials. The frigate bird symbolizes many important things in the traditional living context of theI -Kiribati.I t provides navigation to fishermen while lost at sea, provides weather information for the people and also gives a sign of peace and harmony. Visitors can experience I-Kiribati culture in many shapes and forms. However we do rec- ommend the best way is to take the plunge and live on an outer island for a week and to immerse fully in our daily culture.

World War II Sites The Islands of Kiribati was a place of several bloody battles of the World War II. Sixty years on and much of the evidence of these battles still remain available for travellers to view as hand. With the bonefish, Giant Trevally, or Sail The way of living is very simple and people Fish and Marlin, Kiribati won’t disappoint you. plan their living for a day only, without wor- rying about their future, living with the motto 33 Islands of Kiribati “Tomorrow is another day”. Survival revolves All of the islands are atolls (ring-shaped Living Traditions around strength, motivation and ambition islands with central lagoons) except for The culture of Kiribati is complex and diverse, to live within that particular day. Daily lives the island of Banaba in the Gilbert Islands with each island having its own unique ways. revolve around the rise and fall of the tide, dic- which is a raised limestone Island. Of the 33 islands of Kiribati, 21 are inhabited. Though a living body, many people remain true tating fishing conditions and timing and avail- Most of the population is concentrated to the century old traditions and practices that ability of transport. in the Gilbert Islands and only one of the define what it means to be I-Kiribati. islands in Phoenix Group (Kanton Island) Cultural practices such as community meet- Dancing Like Birds is inhabited and three of the Line Islands ings under the maneaba (traditional meeting are permanently inhabited. The capital of house) to socialize and feast (a botaki), respect The traditional dances ofK iribati are a unique Kiribati is Tarawa, an atoll in the Gilbert to elderly people, guest hospitality and impor- form of art and expression. The movement of Islands. Bairiki, an islet of Tarawa, serves tance of family remain important facets in the the feet, hands and of course the whole body as an administrative center. local culture. imitates the movement of the frigate birds

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International travel awards voted for exclusively by the Russian public and organised in partnership with Moya Planeta TV, Russia’s leading travel and leisure network. The Awards offer participating companies a unique opportunity to reach millions of Russian consumers directly, as well as hundreds of potential industry partners. a living museum of this part of history; in par- On Tarawa and Butaritari Atoll there are still ticular Tarawa, Butaritari and Abemama of the physical relics of the occupation and opera- Supported by Gilbert group, and Banaba island. tions. This includes four eight inch coastal The Japanese entered the pacific and invaded defense guns, and solid concrete bunkers and the Gilberts in December of 1941, two days after pillboxes. Rusted tanks, amtracs, ship wrecks, they bombed Pearl Harbour. In August of 1942, and plane wrecks can also be seen on the Media partners the US Marines held three major operations in shores at low tide. an attempt to remove the Japanese, including "The Battle of Tarawa", reputedly one of the bloodiest battles ever fought in World War II. http://kiribatitourism.gov.ki/

July – August, 2011 — 15 — HERITAGE Island Nations: Hidden Paradise Saba is ideal for the traveler looking for a secluded haven, in peaceful and friendly sur- Saba – The Island of roundings. Rising steeply from the azure sea, the tiny island in the Caribbean is a magical experience far away from the cares and wor- Dreams ries of today's hurried world. Four small villages are as quaint and charm- ing as the gentle, friendly manner of the Saban people, descended from hardy 17th century pioneers. Visitors feel they have stepped back in history, yet many modern luxuries are here to be enjoyed. Saba is a monument to nature's best above and below the ocean's surface. The famous Saba Marine Park is second to none. Saba is a magical place for scuba diving, hiking, admiring the nature or honeymooning!

The Unspoiled Queen Saba has a population of only 1,400, so the island’s surface of 13 square kilometres (5 square miles) is scarcely inhabited. The people of Saba proudly refer to their island as “The Unspoiled Queen.” Imagine an island largely untouched by the 21st century, with the year- round climate of your dreams. Imagine land- scapes that resemble those encountered by the earliest explorers. Lush, pristine, mysteri- ous, alluring. No matter how you arrive on Saba, on the island there’s only one road to travel. Travelling by taxi along “the road that couldn’t be built” takes you to your destination within twenty minutes. On your way you’ll find out what it means to travel back in time. No one’s in a hurry. The taxi driver is busy greeting friends and making

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The Road That Could Not Be Built There is one road on Saba, aptly called “The Road”. Its construction was master- minded by Lambert Josephus Hassell who, despite the common opinion of Dutch engineers, believed that a road could be built. He took a correspondence course in civil engineering, and started building the road with a crew of locals in 1938. After five years of work, the first section of the road, from Fort Bay to The Bottom, was completed. It was not until 1947, however, that the first motor vehicle arrived. In 1951, the road to Windwardside and St. Johns was opened, and in 1958 the road was completed. small talk with everyone who passes by. The crater contains a rainforest jungle of ferns, Diving Kingdom houses are pleasingly uniform, their architec- tropical flowers and mahogany trees. You’ll ture harmonious. feel that you’re in heaven as you gaze over the Saba's beauty extends below the waterline island. into an exciting marine environment rich in corals and active with fish life. A busy population of colorful tropical fish as well as large Climbing Mt. Scenery Hiking the Island groupers and jacks live around Saba. Climbing Mount Scenery is one of the prin- Hikers from all over the world are attracted Lava tunnels and hot springs remind divers of cipal attractions of Saba, an adventure you’ll to Saba. The island features a network of trails, the dramatic volcanic beginnings of the island. never forget. Visitors are advised, however, carefully marked and maintained. Some are The small leeward side hosts gentle, medium that because of the altitude and the demands designed for easy trekking, others require a depth, spur and groove formations. Along the of the climb, only those in good physical condi- guide, enriching the experience through a edge of Saba's sheer wall dives, divers can sight tion should attempt the trek. greater appreciation of Saba’s botany and his- turtles and rays of all shapes and sizes. Since Mount Scenery 877 metres (2,877 feet) is not tory. Everyone can hike to the trailhead then the island is so small, dive boats can reach all only the highest mountain on the island, it is into Saba’s rainforest, tide pools, historic ruins sites within minutes. the highest point in the Kingdom of the Neth- and rich nature wonderland. Even a walk along erlands. When you reach the summit, indulge Saba’s winding road will lead you through yourself in the breathtaking view. The volcano many breathtaking and memorable views. http://www.sabatourism.com

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