188 Route 33. BRUCHSAL.

mediaeval relics. – To the N. E. of the cathedral is the open Hall of Antiquities, in which Roman and other relics found in the Rhenish Palatinate are preserved. The broad Maximilians-Strasse is bounded on the E. by the Cathedral, on the W. by the Altpórtel, a fine old tower, the sole relic of the once free Imperial town. The devastations of the French have left few other relics of an tiquity at Speyer. A mouldering wall by the Protestant church is all that remains of the ancient Retscher, an imperial palace where 29 diets were held. In consequence of the proceedings at one of these under Charles W. in 1529, the famous Protest was issued by the members of the reformed faith, from which the appellation of ‘Protestant’ is derived. The bishops, who like those of Cologne were not permitted to live in the town, resided till the 17th cent. at the Madenburg (p. 234), and afterwards at Bruchsal. From Speyer by railway in 35 min. to Germersheim (Elephant), an old town at the confluence of the Queich (p. 225) and the Rhine, strongly fortified since 1835; thence in 40 min. to Landau (p. 225). 33. From Heidelberg to Baden. Railway in 2"|4–3||2 hrs. (fares 3 fl. 54, 2 fl. 39, 1 fl. 39 kr. ; express higher). Carriages generally changed at Oos, the junction for Baden. The line traverses a wide and fertile plain, bounded on the E. by a low range of hills, and here and there passes villages peeping from among innumerable fruit-trees. As soon as the train has quitted the station, the cemetery-chapel appears on the slope to the 1. , with the tower on the Königsstuhl rising above it. Stations St. Ilgen, Wiesloch (the village 3/4 M. from the line); then Langen brücken (Ochs; Sonne), with sulphur baths, near which, to the r. of the line, is Kislau, formerly a hunting-seat of the archbishops of Speyer, and now a penitentiary for women. Opposite, at some distance, lies Mingolsheim, where Count Ernst Mansfeld, the ally of Elector Frederick W., defeated the Bavarians under Tilly in 1622. Bruchsal (*Badischer Hof, R. from 48, B. 30 kr.; *Rose, near the station; *Rail. Restaur.), a town with 9786 inhab., was formerly the residence of the Archbishops of Speyer, whose Schloss, a hand some rococo structure, elegantly fitted up and adorned with frescoes by Zick, merits a visit. Opposite the Schloss is a large Reservoir built in the form of a small château, and supplied with water from the mountains. The castellated building to the 1. of the line is a Prison, containing 408 cells for solitary confinement, part of which was destroyed by fire in 1871. The Church of St. Peter contains the burial vault of the last bishops. Bruchsal is the junction of the Wurtemberg line (to Stuttgart in 2–3/2 hrs. ; to Friedrichshafen in 9–12/4 hrs.). On the Michaelsberg, near stat. Unter-Grombach, stands the old Michaels-Capelle; on an eminence near stat. Weingarten rises the tower of the ruin of Schmalenstein.

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Durlach (*Carlsburg), the ancient capital of the Duchy of Baden-Durlach, was burned by the French in 1688, with the ex ception of five houses. The lofty and conspicuous watch-tower on the Thurmberg commands a splendid view, as far as Strassburg. The line to Pforzheim, diverging here to the 1., runs thence to the S. to Wildbad, and E. to Mühlacker, a station on the Wurtemberg line. The train next passes the old Benedictine monastery of Gottsaw (r.), now a barrack, and soon stops at Carlsruhe. The Railway Station is a handsome structure, worthy of inspection. On the W. side of the town there is a small station for the trains to Maxau and Mannheim. Railway to Mannheim direct, see p. 184; to Marau, see p. 193; to Baden and Bâle, see below. Hotels. *ERBPRINz (Pl. a), Lange-Str., R. 1 fl., L. 18, B. 30, A. 24 kr. ; *ENGLischer Hof (Pl. b) and *HôTEL GRossE (Pl. c) in the market-place, similar charges. *HôTEL Stoff LETH (Bär) (Pl.: f), Carl Friedrichs- Str., near the Ettlinger Thor. — “GoLDNER ADLER (Pl. d), near the Ettlinger Thor, unpretending. *GRÜNER Hof (Pl. e), BADischer Hof, and PRINz MAx, all at the station. Café-Restaurants (beer at all). *Dāschner, Katholische Kirchenplatz; *Hoeck (Grüner Hof), with garden; *Iffland (Erbprinz Hotel); Badischer Hof, Schloss-Platz; concerts are frequently given at Klever's, Schrempf's, and Geiger's. – Newspapers and restaurant at the Museum, a private club to which access may be obtained through a member. Cabs. One-horse, 1–2 pers. for iſ; hr. 18 kr., 3–4 pers. 24, kr. ; two horse 30 kr. To the station to meet the early train (before 6) 1 fl. Post and Telegraph Office (Pl. 17), Kreuz-Str., No. 14. Theatre (Pl. 22) on Sund., Tues., Thurs., and Frid. ; closed from 1st June to 1st Aug. Baths in the Rhine, at Maxau, to which special morning and evening trains convey bathers in summer. — Warm Baths: Hemberle, at the

corner of the Lange-Str. and Wald-Str. - English Church Service in the Chapel of the Stiftung, by the Mühl berg Gate. Carlsruhe (318 ft.), the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden (38,004 inhab., 2/5 Rom. Cath.), situated 3 M. from the Rhine, on the outskirts of the Hardwald, is a clean well-built town, which is indebted for its origin to some differences between the Margrave Charles William and the townspeople of Durlach. In 1715 that prince began to erect the town round his hunting-castle, which soon gave place to the present palace. The plan of the town resembles a fan, the streets radiating from the palace. Three distinct archi tectural styles may be observed: 1st, that of the beginning of last century, the older French style; 2nd, , imitations of the Greek and Roman styles; 3rd, the modern Romanesque School, introduced by the eminent architect Hübsch. The broad Carl-Friedrichs-Strasse intersects the town from N. to S., extending from the Ettlinger Thor (to the 1. of the egress from the station, near the bronze statue of the Baden minister Winter) to the palace, a distance of 1/2 M. Most of the sights of Carlsruhe are situated in this street in the following order: Obelisk (PI. 6) with arms of Baden and bust of the Grand Duke Charles (1811 —1818), with inscription; to the r. of the monument the Mark gräfliche Palais (Pl. 13); on the 1. side of the market-place the 190 Route 33. CARLSRUHE. From Heidelberg

Town Hall (Pl. 18), and r. the Prot. Church (Pl. 19), resembling a Greek temple; Statue of the Grand Duke Lewis (1818–1830); Pyramid in honour of Margrave Charles (d. 1738), founder of Carls ruhe; in front of the palace “Bronze Statue of the Grand Duke Charles Frederick (d. 1811), by Schwanthaler, with four female figures at the corners of the pedestal, emblematical of the four divisions of the Duchy, the whole well designed and executed, especially the statue itself. The Schloss (Pl. 20), erected about 1750, is in the form of a semicircle, and surmounted by the Bleithurm (150 ft.; open on Frid. 4–6 p.m.), which affords a good survey of the town and the Ha dwald. The dining-hall, ball-room, and other apartments are sumptuously fitted up. The E. wing contains the Court- Library º vols.) and a Natural History Cabinet (open Wed. and Sat. 0–12 and 2–-4 o'clock). The latter contains remains of ante diluvian animals, a valuable collection of shells, etc. The well appointed ducal *Stables are on the same side. In the crescent on the W. side of the Schloss is the * Court Theatre (Pl. 22), a handsome modern building, erected in 1847– 1853, to replace one which had been burned down. The pediment contains (r.) reliefs of Goethe, Schiller, and Lessing, and (1.) of Mozart, Beethoven, and Gluck; in the centre the Muse of the Drama; all by Reich. An arched passage in the W. wing of the Schloss leads to the Palace Garden, which extends into the Hardwald. About 200 yds. N.W. of the Bleithurm, in a small avenue, is a bust of the poet Hebel (Pl. 5) with quotations from his poetry. To the I. of the entrance to the garden are extensive hot-houses fitted up as a *Winter Garden (Pl. 24), containing a palm-house, pond for the Victoria regia, orangery, green-houses, &c. The adjoining Botanic Garden (Pl. 1) is open daily (Sund, excepted) before 12 and after 2 o'clock; the hot-houses on Tues. and Frid, only, 9 — 11 and 3–5 o'clock; admission at other times on application to the com mittee. - Adjacent to the botanic garden is the *Hall of Art (Pl. 12), by Hübsch (1836–1845) in the modern Romanesque style, containing collections of pictures, casts, and antiquities (open Wed. and Sund. 11—1 and 2–4; at other times fee 30 kr.). The sculptures at the entrance by Reich represent the arts of sculpture, poetry, and painting in the central section of the arch; at the sides, Italy on the 1. and Germany on the r. ; below, on the 1., Michael Angelo and Raphael, on either side of the torso of a Venus; on the r. Dürer, Holbein, and Vischer. Frommel's catalogue (42 kr.) fully describes everything in the Hall. The eminent painter K. F. Lessing is the director. Ground Floor. Corridor to the left (admission 6 kr.): exhibition of modern pictures and objects of art, chiefly of the Carlsruhe school, all *or sale; above are four cartoons by Schwindt, representing a procession to Baden. CARLSRUHE, 33. Route. 191

of children. Corridor to the right: Greek and Roman vases from Lower Italy and Sicily, and various other antiquities. Then four saloons and sev eral cabinets containing casts of ancient and modern sculptures. Staircase adorned with *frescoes by Schwind. That on the wall at the back represents the consecration of the cathedral at Freiburg by Duke Conrad of Zähringen ; among the workpeople is a portrait of the archi tect Hübsch (with a white collar, near the entrance on the r.); the flag bearer is a portrait of the Grand Duke Leopold, holding the crown prince by the hand; the crowned female figures are the Grand Duchess and the princesses; on the scaffolding above, to the r., Schwind himself; to the 1. Sabina of Steinbach, the sculptress (comp. p. 203); to the r. Bal dung Grün, painting the Margrave Christopher I. — The lunettes contain allegorical representations of art (above the central picture), to the r. Imagination, to the 1. Exact Science, farther on, Peace and Wealth. First Floor. Corridor to the left: Cartoons by Hess, Veit, Schnorr, and Overbeck. Cabinet with carved ivory and statuettes in bronze. 11. Preach ing of St. Boniface, encaustic painting by Fohr; under it, the *Four Sea sons, a water-colour by Schrödter. At the end of the corridor, to the 1., is a small room (“No. III.’): 668. Marie Ellenrieder, Madonna and Child in glory; 669. Sohn, Question of conscience; 303. Kirner, Italian distur bances of 1848; 670. Tidemand, Grandmother's bridal ornaments. – I. Room (‘V."), lighted from above: 111. Winterhalter, Grand Duke Leo pold of Baden; 118. Overbeck, Raising of Lazarus; 91, 93, 280. Rottmann, Greek landscapes and the island of Aegina; 121. Marco, Italian landscape; 128. Lessing, Scene from the frist crusade; without number, Lessing, Large landscape, wooded ravine with soldiers of the Thirty Years' War (date 1871); 129. Schirmer, Threatening storm in the Campagna; 288, 306. E. Fries, Landscape from the mountains of Latium, and Watch-tower of Amalfi: 303, 77. Kirner, Children playing at the Italian revolution of 1848, and Swiss soldier relating his reminiscences of the French Revo lution of 1830; 640. Nicutowski, Passage of the Beresina; *642. De Coudres, Entombment; 119. F. Dietz, Queen Maria Eleonora at the coffin of Gu stavus Adolphus. – II. Room (‘VI."): *Lessing, Disputation between Luther and Eck before the Elector of Saxony and the Landgrave of Hessen; on either side of the latter, 671—674. Schirmer, Four periods of the day, large landscapes with the story of the Good Samaritan; 639. F. Dietz, De struction of Heidelberg by Mélac (a very large picture); #120. Kachel, Love; 657. G. Becker, The proposal of marriage; 636. Schmitson, Horses shying at an overturned vehicle; Feuerbach, Satyr playing the young Bacchus to sleep with a flute, Dante with the noble ladies of Ravenna; 132. Bayer, Cathedral of Freiburg, Cathedral of Strassburg; 270. Bayer, Jeanne de France in the convent at Bourges; 661. Bayer, Midday at a monastery. — IV. CABINET. Copies from Raphael, Titian, Rubens, etc.; 638. Feuerbach, Copy of Titian's Assumption. – W. CABINET. Feuerbach, Poetry (female figure over life-size, with violin). — VI. CABINET. *340. M. Schwind, Ritter Kurt's bridal journey, from Goethe's ballad, a humo rous picture in the early German style, with the inscription, “Enemies, women, debts' Alas, what knight can get rid of them " — VII. CABINET. On one of the walls are early Italian pictures: 350. Niccolò Alumno, Cruci fixion, painted in 1469 (on linen, probably a procession-flag); 351. Lor. di Credi, Madonna. The rest of this room and the next are occupied with pictures of the early German and Netherlands schools. 381. School of van Eyck, Small portrait of a man; 370. Holbein the Elder, Bearing of the Cross; 369, 371, 369, 371. Holbein the Younger, St. Barbara and St. George ; 42. H. Baldung Grin, Margrave Christopher of Baden; 382. Grün, The fa mily of the Margrave kneeling before the Madonna and St. Anna; Cra nach, 87. Luther after death, 378. Mary and Child, 379. Judgment of Paris. - III. Room (‘VII."); 366. G. Pencz (d. 1550), Portrait of a man in fur; 374. N. Neuchatel (d. 1600), Portraits of a man and woman (in half figure); 413. Jordaens, Moses and the Israelites leaving Egypt; 480. C. de Crayer, Family picture; 662. Snyders, Cabbages; 446. Snyders and Van Thulden, Kitchen piece; 531, 532. Teniers, Witch scenes. Then Italian masters, most of them uninteresting: 135. Bronzino, Portrait of a man 194 Route 34. BADEN. a monument to M. Rindeschwender, a patriotic native of Baden. Gerns bach, see p. 199. The train now crosses the Murg. Farther on, between Rastatt and Oos, the hunting-seat Favorite (p. 200) lies in the midst of shrubberies. 00s is the junction for Baden-Baden, which is reached hence in 10 min.

- 34. Baden and Environs. Hotels. *VrcroRIA, in the Leopolds-Platz. *BADischer: HoF (with baths), at the entrance to the town, quieter than the others. *ENGLIschER Hof, near the Promenadenbrücke. *EURoPäischer Hof, opposite the Trinkhalle. These four are of the first clas: R. 1"|2 fl. and upwards, L. 24, B. 42, D. incl. W. at 5 o'clock 1 fl. 48, A. 30 kr. — “STADT BApeN, at the station, similar charges. – #HolländischER Hof and Hôtel. D’AMERIQUE, both in the Sophien - Str.: RUssischER Hof, in the Prome naden-Platz; DEUTscher Hof, Lange-Str. ; *ZÄHRINGER Hof (with baths), Lange-Str. ; FRANzösischer Hof, at the corner of the Wilhelms-Str., near the Trinkhalle ; HôTEL Roy AL; *HIRsch (with baths), Lange-Str. ; *DARM st KDTER Hof (with baths), Gernsbacher Str. ; St. PETERsBURGER Hof (with baths), in the same street, good cuisine. Average charges in all these: R. from 'i ſi..., ii. ſs. B. 36. D. at 1 o'clock 1 fl. 13, at 5 o'clock 1 a. 36 km. — BAIRIschER Hof, opposite the station. – RITTER, Gernsbacher Str.; DREI KöNIgE and *STERN (with restaurant) in the Lange-Str. ; *STADT STRAssBURG, at the end of the new promenade, somewhat remote, R. 1 fl., D. 1 fl. 3 STAHLBAD (Hôtel Garni), Lichtenthaler Str., R. 1 fl. ; ENGEL, at the Gernsbacher Thor, moderate. BAR, at Lichtenthal (p. 197), 12 M. from the Conversationshaus. – The best wines of the country are Affen thaler (red), Klingenberger, and Markgräfler (white). * Cafés. At the Conversationshaus. Café-Restaurant à la Fleur, near the Russischer Hof. — Beer. Haug and Görger, both at the station; Geist, at the Gernsbacher Thor; Krone. — Cigars. Gaus, Rheinboldt, both near the Conversationshaus. Telegraph Office at the station. Theatre. Performances in summer by French and Italian companies; in spring, autumn, and winter by that of the Carlsruhe theatre. Races at Iffezheim (near Oos, see above) at the beginning of September. Carriages. The following charges include drivers' fees. Ebersteinschloss 5, or returning by Gernsbach 5/2 fl. 5 Ebersteinburg 4; Fremersberg 3, or by the Jagdhaus 4; Jagdhaus 3; Seelach 3"|2; Geroldsau, to the Waterfall 4's Favorite 3"|2; Gernsbach 412; Rothenfels 412; Yburg 5; to the Old Castle (allowing time to inspect it) and back 4 fl. (Should any of these excur sions occupy more than 6 hrs. the charge is increased one-half). Eber steinschloss, Gernsbach, Rothenfels, Kuppenheim, Favorite 7, Forbach 9, same through the Murgthal 10 fl. 3. Wildbad 18 fl. ; * oldsau 20 fl. — By time: |4 hr for 1–2 pers. 24, 3–4 pers. 30, 2 hr. ſº. 45 kr. ; 34 hr. 48 kr. or 1 fl. ; 1 hr. 1 fl., or 1, fl. 15 kr: ; 2 hrs., 1 fl. 48 kr. or 2 fl. 12 kr.: 3 hrs. 2 fl. 12 kr. or 3 fl. ; 4 hrs. 2 fl. 36 or 3 fl. 24 kr. — Donkeys; "|2 day 1 fl. 12 kr., whole day 2 fl. Carriage and donkey-stands opposite the Englischer Hof, at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversations haus, opposite the Baden Hotel, and in the Leopolds-Platz. — Omnibus from station to town 12 kr., incl. luggage. English Church consecrated in 1867. Baden has the reputation of an expensive watering-place, and probably is so to those who live at the first-class hotels, attend the ‘matinées musicales’ (adm. 5–20 fr.), and liberally patronise the shops and bazaars; but many of the advantages of the place may be enjoyed without very serious in road on the finances. A respectable-private lodging may be procured for 6–10 fl. a week, the farther from the Cursaal, the cheaper (e. g. at one of the numerous villas, near the railway-station, such as the Villa Hauk, or at the village of Lichtenthal, 12 M, distant), Breakfast in the lodging