® G RE AT PARK NATIONAL BASIN A R esource Assessment

March 2009 ®

Center for State of the Parks ®

More than a century ago, Congress established Yellowstone as the CONTENTS world’s first national park. That single act was the beginning of a remarkable and ongoing effort to protect this nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage. Today, Americans are learning that national park designation REPORT SUMMARY 1 alone cannot provide full resource protection. Many parks are compromised by development of adjacent lands, air and water pollu- RATINGS 4 tion, invasive plants and animals, and rapid increases in motorized recreation. Park officials often lack adequate information on the RESOURCE MANAGEMENT status of and trends in conditions of critical resources. HIGHLIGHTS 6 The National Parks Conservation Association initiated the State of the Parks program in 2000 to assess the condition of natural and cultural resources in the parks, and determine how well equipped the GREAT BASIN NATIONAL National Park Service is to protect the parks—its stewardship capac- PARK AT A GLANCE 7 ity. The goal is to provide information that will help policymakers, the public, and the National Park Service improve conditions in KEY FINDINGS 8 national parks, celebrate successes as models for other parks, and ensure a lasting legacy for future generations. THE GREAT BASIN For more information about the methodology and research used in preparing this report and to learn more about the Center for State ASSESSMENT of the Parks, visit www.npca.org/stateoftheparks or contact: NPCA, NATURAL RESOURCES 12 Center for State of the Parks, P.O. Box 737, Fort Collins, CO 80522; CULTURAL RESOURCES 23 phone: 970.493.2545; email: [email protected]. STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY 32

Since 1919, the National Parks Conservation Association has been APPENDIX: METHODOLOGY 36 the leading voice of the American people in protecting and enhanc- ing our National Park System. NPCA, its members, and partners work together to protect the park system and preserve our nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage for generations to come.

* More than 325,000 members * Twenty-five regional and field offices * More than 120,000 activists

A special note of appreciation goes to those whose generous grants and donations made this report possible: Tiffany & Co., Dorothy Canter, Ben and Ruth Hammett, Marty and Lee Talbot, and anony- mous donors. Cover photo of a bristlecone pine in Great Basin National Park courtesy of Dave Rock/istockphoto. variety oflandscapes, plants, andanimals. In explore, thereward hereisgreat—asurprising the inquisitive traveler whotakes time to others findbeauty, bothsubtle andbold.For extreme. Butwheresome seetheinhospitable, described inruggedterms—brutal,raucous than any other. Itisaplacethathasbeen that thestateishometomoremountainranges ending desert;theseobserv The stateofNevada isseen by someasanever- ers o v erlook thefact REPORT SUMMARY , old. Egyptian pyramids, being4,000to4,500 years timberline dwellers sharebirthyears with cone pine. Somespecimens oftheseancient world’s oldest livingtreespecies, the bristle- serv country’s youngest (establishedin1986),butit National P no placeisthistruerthaninGreatBasin Great BasinNationalPark isoneofthe es asarefugeforrepresentativ ark. es ofthe National Park. within Great Basin and Jeff DavisPeak tallest at13,063feet) Peak (thepark’s here are Wheeler other state.Shown ranges thanany more mountain Nevada ishometo

LOREN REINHOLD Great Basin National Park 1 ity and expansive views of Spring and Snake Valleys. But clear skies and air quality are in jeopardy at the park. Large, new coal-fired KELLY COURKAMP power plants have been proposed within 186 miles of Great Basin. Four coal-fired plants already operate within 200 miles of the park. Because the area is currently a Class 2 airshed, some degree of degradation from current and planned power plants would be allowed; the amount of degradation could be estimated but not actually known until the new power plants 2 come online. Regional groundwater withdrawal threatens ark water sources in the park. Groundwater rights were granted in 2007 to the Southern Nevada Water Authority to pump 60,000 acre-feet per year from Spring Valley, on the west side of the park, to provide for the growing needs of Las Vegas and other communities in southern Nevada. An application has been filed to with- Great Basin National P draw water from Snake Valley for the same Great Basin National Despite the name Great Basin—which refers purposes. Loss of groundwater threatens Park preserves a to the area that extends from the Sierra Nevada streams, wetlands, springs, and cave systems. portion of the South Range in California to the Wasatch Range in Other issues affecting park resources include Snake Range. Utah, and from southern Oregon to southern the spread of non-native plant species and a Nevada, where water drains inland rather than history of fire suppression and grazing, all of to the sea—this is a mountainous park. Located which have impacted natural habitats. in one of the most remote regions of the Human beings have traveled through and contiguous United States, it preserves a portion lived in the Great Basin region for at least of the South Snake Range. Wheeler Peak, the 12,000 years. Rock art panels at Grey Cliffs are park’s tallest at 13,063 feet, guards three verified evidence of some of these ancient inhabitants. rock glaciers: Lehman, Teresa, and North Fork Native peoples subsisted here until the 1870s, Baker. Because of the park’s elevation gradient, when white settlers took over the land to ranch, water sources, underground caves, and distance farm, and mine. Aspen trees in the park bear from urban centers (the nearest major cities of the marks of Basque, Peruvian, and Salt Lake City and Las Vegas are 250 and 300 Scandinavian sheepherders who carved miles away, respectively), it serves as a sanctuary symbols in the bark in the late 1800s. The park for an extensive variety of ecosystems and also protects the Johnson Lake Mine Historic wildlife. In addition, the Park Service adminis- District, the remnants of an early 1900s tung- ters all of the lands within the park’s borders, sten mining operation. which further ensures their future protection. Cultural resources, such as tree carvings Great Basin National Park has some of the (dendroglyphs), pictographs, and historic darkest night skies in the country, attracting structures, face multiple threats at Great Basin. stargazers as well as adventure travelers. In The harsh natural elements take their toll on daytime, visitors are treated to excellent visibil- cave paintings and historic buildings, while 3 ark Great Basin National P CATHY NORRIS NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Note: When interpreting the scores for resource conditions, recognize that critical information upon which the ratings are based is not always available. This limits data interpretation to some extent. For Great Basin, 64 percent of the natural resources information was available and 98 percent of the cultural resources information was available.

RESOURCE CATEGORY CURRENT

NATURAL RESOURCES

Overall conditions 81 GOOD Environmental and Biotic Measures 84 4 Biotic Impacts and Stressors 80 Air 83

ark Water 93 Soils 67 Ecosystems Measures 77 Species Composition and Condition 73 Ecosystem Extent and Function 79

RATINGS SCALE 0–35 36–60 61–80 81–90 91–100

CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT Great Basin National P

CULTURAL RESOURCES

Overall conditions 66 FAIR Archaeology 79 Cultural Landscapes 59 Ethnography (Peoples and Cultures) 42 Historic Structures 72 History 61 Museum Collection and Archives 68

RATINGS SCALE 0–35 36–60 61–80 81–90 91–100

CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT

The findings in this report do not necessarily reflect past or current park management. Many factors that affect resource conditions are a result of both human and natural influences over long periods of time, in many cases before a park was established. The intent of the Center for State of the Parks is not to evaluate Park Service staff performance, but to document the present status of park resources and determine which actions can be taken to protect them into the future. Proposed power plants, transmission lines, energy farms,

LOREN REINHOLD and groundwater withdrawals could potentially threaten Great Basin’s natural resources. All require thoughtful evaluation.

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some visitors may threaten rock art, trespass in park research and monitoring data using the sensitive areas, and damage delicate cave center’s comprehensive assessment methodol- formations. In addition, while the park works ogy (see “Appendix”). The park currently has with traditionally associated groups as neces- “good” air quality and “excellent” water sary, there are no ethnographic studies in place quality, but they are threatened by power plants for Great Basin, and more planning is needed and groundwater withdrawals, respectively, and in order to effectively protect ethnographic past grazing practices and fire suppression have resources. The park did not have a formal degraded park habitats. Staff are working to cultural resources program until a cultural restore some areas. resources manager was hired in 2003. Since Overall conditions of Great Basin National then, the park has made progress documenting Park’s known cultural resources rated 66 out Great Basin National resources and planning for their protection of a possible 100, indicating “fair” conditions. Park Statistics into the future, though additional support is The scores for cultural resources are based on needed to expand these efforts. the results of indicator questions that reflect the Park location: National Park Service’s own Cultural Resource East-central Nevada RATINGS Management Guideline and other policies The National Parks Conservation Association’s related to cultural and historical resources. Park establishment: Center for State of the Parks assessed the condi- While the addition of a cultural resources 1986 tion of both natural and cultural resources at manager in 2003 has greatly benefited Great Park size (acres): Great Basin National Park. Current overall Basin, additional staff are needed for all 77,082 conditions of the park’s known natural programs to assist with baseline research, resources rated a “good” score of 81 out of 100. archaeological surveys, and museum and Annual visitation (2008): Ratings were assigned through an evaluation of archival collections upkeep. 69,235 RESOURCE MANAGEMENT HIGHLIGHTS

• Native fish reintroduced. Great Basin tion effort, an 800-foot section of paved National Park is home to four native fish walkway leading to the Talus Room is now species: Bonneville cutthroat trout, mottled being removed. sculpin, redside shiner, and speckled dace. • Sagebrush restoration ongoing. In 2004, Non-native fish, stocked here by early Great Basin National Park began restoring settlers and later government agencies, Lehman Flat, which was once largely sage- outcompeted natives for food, and most brush. As a result of fire suppression and natives had disappeared by the time the grazing, pinyon-juniper and other vegeta- 6 park was established. In 1999, park staff tion had encroached on the area, degrad- reintroduced Bonneville cutthroat trout to

ark ing or eliminating shrub steppe wildlife five of the six streams they once inhabited habitat. By removing pinyon-juniper that at Great Basin. In 2005, due to the success had invaded the area, park staff have now of the trout reintroduction program, the restored several hundred acres of sage- park began reintroduction of the remaining brush. three native fish species in select streams. • Abandoned mine lands reclaimed. There • Lehman Caves restoration begun. In were about 250 abandoned mine sites from Great Basin National P 2008, the park began work to restore the historic mining activities located within the Talus Room and other areas of Lehman park. These were comprised of rock quar- Caves to approximate more natural condi- ries, prospecting pits, shafts, bulldozer tions. Though cave tours once visited this scrapes, abandoned access roads, waste- and other rooms in the cave, the trails here rock piles, and ditches dug for water diver- were closed permanently in 1981, due to sion. All of the 171 acres of abandoned safety concerns. Since then, trail material mine lands have been reclaimed through and electrical conduit have been deterio- park efforts along with 21 miles of associ- rating, creating harmful conditions to the ated roads. cave environment. As part of the restora-

Park staff have successfully reintro- duced native fish to many park streams. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

• Great Basin National Heritage Route GREAT BASIN NATIONAL PARK AT A GLANCE designated. The park has a good relation- ship with the descendants of Basque, • Great Basin National Park overlooks Spring Valley to the west and Peruvian, and Scandinavian sheepherders Snake Valley to the east, offering expansive desert views and in the region. Some are active in the Great opportunities to see ancient bristlecone pines, the world’s oldest Basin Heritage Area Partnership, a living tree species. nonprofit group that works to preserve local • Great Basin National Park is remote—Salt Lake City and Las heritage. The partnership helped garner Vegas, the nearest major cities, are 250 and 300 miles away, the area congressional designation as the respectively. The park’s isolation accounts for its excellent air Great Basin National Heritage Route. quality; on most days, visibility is at least 186 miles. At night, visi- • Second visitor center opened. In 2005, tors are treated to one of the darkest skies and best opportuni- 7 the park opened a visitor center in Baker, ties for stargazing in the park system. Lack of light pollution

Nevada; support from the Great Basin allows stargazers an unparalleled view of planets, constellations, ark National Park Foundation made this facility the Milky Way, and other celestial bodies. possible. It features exhibits, an informative • Lehman Caves, discovered more than 130 years ago, include a film, and opportunities to interact with wide variety of cave formations, such as stalactites, stalagmites, rangers and to purchase educational items. cave popcorn, flowstone, and more than 300 rare shield forma- A new exhibit, currently being installed, tions. The caves were protected as Lehman Caves National encompasses a timeline of more than Monument in 1922, inspiring the eventual creation of the park. 12,000 years of habitation in the Great Great Basin National P Now part of Great Basin National Park, the caves offer guests Basin, including occupation and use by opportunities to view spectacular cave formations and learn about Paleo-Indian, Fremont, Shoshone, and the unique history of cave exploration in the area. In addition, the Paiute peoples, as well as by miners and park contains 45 additional limestone caves—including the ranchers. Representations of pictographs, longest cave system in Nevada and the deepest cave in the state. petroglyphs, and dendroglyphs, as well as a pithouse, wickiup, log cabin, and sheep- • The Lexington Arch, a six-story-tall natural limestone arch located herder camp, will also be displayed. The in the Lexington Canyon, is one of the largest limestone arches in park also operates an additional visitor the Western United States. It is unique because above-ground center at the entrance to Lehman Caves; arches are usually sandstone (limestone is usually associated with this facility is devoted to education and underground formations). It is possible that the arch was once a interpretation of cave features and history. cave feature, or it may be a natural bridge.

• Archaeological site assessments com- • The park is home to the Johnson Lake Mine Historic District. pleted. With the addition of a term archae- Accessible only by a strenuous hike with a 2,700-feet elevation ologist in 2006 the capacity for assessment gain, these abandoned ruins represent what is left of an early and documentation of archaeological sites 1900s tungsten mining operation. has increased. In fact, condition assess- • Great Basin National Park offers visitors opportunities to take ments for all of the park’s archaeological guided tours of Lehman Caves, attend evening campfires, hike a sites were completed in 2008. variety of trails, fish for trout in Baker Lake and several streams, visit the site of a 13th-century Fremont Indian village, enjoy scenic drives, and more. KEY FINDINGS Water rights were granted with stipulation in 2007 to pump 60,000 acre-feet per year • New coal-fired power plants in the plan- from Spring Valley. The Snake Valley appli- ning stages are within 186 miles of Great cation is scheduled for decision in the fall Basin; four coal-fired plants already of 2009. The park’s unique geology makes operate in the region. According to esti- it difficult to predict how groundwater with- mates from permit applications, new coal- drawals could affect park ecosystems, but fired plants could potentially emit millions any decreases in flow of park streams and of tons of carbon dioxide, thousands of springs could have far-reaching adverse tons of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides, effects on Great Basin’s water-dependent and hundreds of pounds of mercury each biological and geological systems. 8 year. These pollutants would bring haze to • Park staff have identified ten non-native Great Basin’s skies, diminishing visibility

ark plant species that are of concern due to and the park’s notable night sky viewing, as their ability to invade ecosystems and well as an increase in the deposition of air outcompete native species. The most pollutants that could harm ecosystems, widespread is cheatgrass, which now particularly park lakes, which are suscepti- covers about 25 percent of the park. Park ble to acidification. staff treat some non-native species, such as • The park’s streams and springs are threat- spotted knapweed, white top, mullen, and

Great Basin National P ened by the increasing water needs of thistles, with biological and mechanical Lehman Creek earned a Class A LasVegas and communities in southern controls. They have eradicated two popula- designation from the Nevada. In the 1980s, the Las Vegas Valley tions of spotted knapweed and contained State of Nevada due Water District—now part of the Southern several others. to its excellent water Nevada Water Authority—applied for quality. If nearby • A history of grazing and fire suppression future groundwater rights throughout groundwater with- has contributed to landscape-level much of Nevada. In 2004, the Southern drawals cause changes in plant successional patterns in decreases in water Nevada Water Authority began exercising the park. As a result, some species of flows in park streams these rights for groundwater. Several appli- wildlife are declining due to habitat loss. and springs, Great cations submitted to the Nevada State Basin's biological The sage-grassland ecosystem has been Engineer call for large-scale withdrawals of systems and geologi- particularly hard hit, as pinyon-juniper and groundwater from the two valleys adjacent cal caves could be other vegetation have encroached onto greatly affected. to the park (Spring and Snake Valleys). the former sage steppe. Grazing was allowed to continue when the park was created, but in 2000 the park was able to end cattle grazing when ranchers donated their grazing permits in return for monetary U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY compensation. Since then, the park has removed 18 spring developments and 18 miles of barbed wire fence, and has noted dramatic recovery in these areas. As of 2009, sheep grazing, which has occurred on two allotments on the west side of the park, will be phased out. Great Basin National Park has attempted to minimize adverse effects from grazing through the terms and Great Basin National conditions for compliance placed in the Park includes more than 60 miles of grazing permits. developed trails that • Prior to hiring a cultural resources manager provide access to destinations such as in 2003, a cultural resources program was Stella Lake, one of almost nonexistent at the park. Since then, the park’s six the park has made progress identifying and subalpine lakes. documenting resources. A management plan to guide cultural resource protection is under way at Great Basin, but various other reports—including an administrative 9 history and an ethnographic overview and

assessment—are needed to meet Park ark Service baseline requirements.

• Carvings on aspen trees, left behind by Basque, Peruvian, and Scandinavian sheep- herders, are visible in parts of the park. Documenting these dendroglyphs is a time-sensitive need because some of the Great Basin National P aspen trees are reaching the end of their life cycle, and others are susceptible to fire.

The park is documenting the dendroglyphs ALANA DIMMICK with photography and has proposed conducting a three-year study of aspen include purchasing agent and protection stands throughout the park, scheduled for specialist (ranger) positions. The cultural funding in 2010. resources division is composed of a cultural resource manager and a term archaeolo- • There are no ethnographic studies in place gist (to become permanent in 2010). To for Great Basin, and the park’s planning care for the museum and archival collec- does not adequately provide for the tions, the park needs additional assistance. protection of ethnographic resources. With The park also requires additional adminis- sufficient funds and other support, the park trative support for interpretation, protec- would have the potential to expand its tion, and resource management. Park ethnography program. managers would like to be able to provide • Funding shortfalls compromise the park’s more campground talks and extended ability to fully protect resources and visitor center hours, and expand outreach provide the level of visitor services staff and education to meet the park's mandate would like to achieve. The park has five full- of telling the story of the entire Great Basin, time, permanent natural resources employ- but with only about ten full-time equivalent ees, but key natural resource positions interpretive staff, the park is unable to remain vacant, including cave manage- increase the level of visitor services offered. ment specialist, hydrologist, and An additional two permanent interpretive geographic information systems (GIS) staff and three seasonal staff would allow analyst. Other vacant positions at the park the park to expand its visitor services.

LAND USE HISTORY—SETTLERS BRING The earliest known Euro-American historical CHANGES TO GREAT BASIN documents for the Wheeler Peak area date from For at least 12,000 years, people have lived in 1827, when “mountain man” Jedediah Smith the remote and sometimes forbidding environ- traveled the Snake Range. Data on the topogra- ment of the Great Basin. Paleo-Indians phy, climate, wildlife, botany, geology, paleon- (12,000–9,000 BC) lived here in small groups tology, and native peoples of the region were that could mobilize quickly in pursuit of prey, published in Smith’s journal in 1876. harvesting now-extinct Pleistocene animals, In the 1840s, the U.S. Army Bureau of including mammoth, bison, and ground-sloth. Topographical Engineers began scientific and Larger Pleistocene mammals had disappeared military exploration of the region. During his by the beginning of the Great Basin Desert 1843–44 expedition, which passed through the 10 Archaic period (9,000 BC–AD 500). Archaic Great Basin, explorer John C. Fremont peoples adapted to these changes by including observed that the region was “surrounded by ark a wider variety of vegetation in their diets— lofty mountains, contents almost unknown, seeds, berries, and cattail—as well as fish and but believed to be filled with rivers and lakes small mammals. People moved their settle- which have no communication to the sea, ments seasonally and used caves and rock shel- deserts and oases which have never been ters for storage. By the start of the Fremont explored.” Although he never surveyed current Period (AD 500–1300), inhabitants had park lands, his description aptly describes the employed small-scale agriculture. Unlike their landscape that would ultimately form the park. Great Basin National P hunter-gatherer predecessors, the Fremont Captain James H. Simpson conducted the first people settled in small villages along streams in comprehensive study of the Snake Range and low valleys. While scholars debate the cause of adjacent valleys in 1859, while mapping out a the Fremont decline (one theory suggests that new wagon route from Camp Floyd, Utah (near farming became unreliable, due to climate Salt Lake), to Genoa, Nevada. changes), they generally believe that the Bound for California during the mid-19th Fremont culture disappeared from the Great century, numerous emigrants crossed Nevada, Basin by 1300. and following more northerly or southerly The Shoshone—an American Indian group routes of passage, entirely missed the area now that relied on a subsistence lifestyle—persisted within Great Basin National Park. During this in the region until the 1870s, when increased time period, however, various Mormon settlers Euro-American settlement accelerated their surveyed the area for settlement potential. In conversion to wage-based economies (farming, 1855, an exploratory group of Mormon settlers ranching, and mining). Originally from south- from Lehi, Utah, camped on what are now park eastern California, Shoshone peoples may have lands. entered the Snake Valley as early as 1100. Lieutenant George Wheeler of the U.S. Spanish slave traders, most active in the mid- Corps of Engineers, for whom Wheeler Peak is 18th century, abducted Shoshone and other named, conducted detailed topographic and American Indians in the Great Basin region, geological reconnaissance of the area in 1869 affecting local indigenous populations. as part of his U.S. Geological Surveys West of the Spanish expeditions and fur traders from the One Hundredth Meridian. Following his exten- Hudson’s Bay Company ventured into the sive survey work, people began to settle and Great Basin throughout the 1700s, but there is mine the area in earnest. From 1869 until the no evidence that they came near the present park’s creation in 1986, prospectors and miners park boundaries. were active in several areas of Great Basin. Early efforts included unsuccessful lead, gold, and established a ranch. The caves that bear his silver mining, followed by copper and tungsten name are his greatest legacy to the park. One mining in the 1880s. People filed numerous account notes that, in the mid-1880s, Lehman mining claims as recently as the 1950s. None of stumbled upon a hole in the ground. Upon the mines in the park produced enough high- further investigation, he discovered that the quality ore to be commercially successful, hole led to a vast cave system filled with beau- although several resulted in extensive tiful formations. Lehman began showing exploratory excavations. others his find, and by fall of 1885, he had Garrison and Baker, the two communities installed ladders and stairs and created new nearest the park, were founded in 1870 and openings into the underground rooms. 1873, respectively, as centers of cattle ranching. In 1912, the caves and lands that would When Basque sheepherder Guy Saval purchased eventually become Lehman Caves National 11 one of the larger ranches in 1914, other Basques Monument were added to the recently estab- followed, temporarily earning Baker the nick- lished Nevada National Forest. President ark name “Basque Town.” Basque sheepherders, Warren G. Harding created Lehman Caves originally from the Pyrenees region of Spain, National Monument by presidential proclama- left their marks throughout the region in the tion in 1922, setting aside a 640-acre site form of carvings on the bark of aspen trees. surrounding the cave entrance. Overnight Many of these carvings, also known as dendro- accommodations (log cabins and tents) were glyphs or arboglyphs, remain in the park today. developed and new trails were created to allow Great Basin National P Sheep grazing continues in the park but is being access to the caves. phased out; cattle grazing allotments were Serious proposals to create a national park, retired in 2000. expanding beyond Lehman Caves to include Historic disturbances to terrestrial and Mount Wheeler, were launched in 1924, but The 12-mile Wheeler aquatic systems in the area included extensive this designation did not occur until 1986. Peak Scenic Drive is a logging of ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) Public Law 99-565 established Great Basin popular way to see and use of horse-drawn draglines across five National Park “to preserve for the benefit and the park. Different watersheds (Baker, Lehman, Snake Big Wash, inspiration of the people a representative park ecosystems— Big Wash, and Strawberry Creeks), as well as segment of the Great Basin of the Western from sagebrush scrub to aspen groves—are unregulated grazing. In 1891, an act of United States possessing outstanding resources revealed as the road Congress enabled the designation of federal and significant geological and scenic values.” gains 3,000 feet in forest reserves, and in 1909, President The park now encompasses 77,082 acres. elevation. Theodore Roosevelt established the Nevada National Forest, encompassing more than 1.2 million acres in eastern Nevada. Timber harvest

within current park boundaries was halted in ALANA DIMMICK 1959 when the U.S. Forest Service established the Wheeler Peak Scenic Area, the predecessor of Great Basin National Park. Absalom Lehman was one of the first settlers to establish a permanent residence in the Great Basin area. Homesteading first on Weaver Creek in the Snake Valley between 1866 and 1868, Lehman relocated to present-day Lehman Creek inside the park by 1870 and THE GREAT BASIN NATIONAL PARK ASSESSMENT U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY

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Great Basin National NATURAL RESOURCES— not fragmented by inholdings and is generally Park is home to three ISOLATION OFFERS PROTECTION, remote from external development such as verified rock glaciers. BUT THREATS REMAIN urban areas. Despite the park’s isolated loca- One sits at the base of the bowl-shaped tion, population growth in the Western United glacial cirque on NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks assessment States threatens natural resources, primarily due Wheeler Peak’s rated the overall condition of natural resources to the ever-increasing demand for water and eastern face. at Great Basin National Park 81 out of 100, power to supply population centers hundreds which ranks park resources in “good” condi- of miles away. Withdrawals of groundwater tion. The park has “excellent” water quality, and from surrounding valleys to supply the needs of air quality is also high. In addition, the park is Las Vegas put Great Basin’s ecosystems at risk, and nearby established and proposed coal-fired engaged in a survey of all cave biota, and staff power plants jeopardize air and water quality in have inventoried more than half of all park the region. caves so far. To guide management of the caves, park staff are in the process of preparing a cave GEOLOGY AND HYDROLOGY—PARK management plan. FEATURES CAVES AND NEVADA’S ONLY Great Basin National Park is home to three GLACIERS rock glaciers (Lehman, Teresa, and North Fork Great Basin’s northern desert climate is charac- Baker) around the Wheeler uplift, all of which terized by extremes in daily and seasonal have been validated with ground-penetrating temperatures, with hot summers and cold radar. A fourth glacier has been found but has winters. Elevation heavily influences both not yet been validated. A rock glacier is a lobe of precipitation and temperature—annual rainfall angular boulders and cobbles that resembles an 13 in the basin valleys is less than 6 inches; on alpine glacier in outline and in its slow downs- mountain ridges it exceeds 30 inches. Most lope movement. Inside rock glaciers, ice fills in ark precipitation in the Great Basin region falls in the spaces between blocks of rock. By freezing, the form of snow that melts in the spring. thawing, and sagging, ice works with gravity to Rocks compose much of the landscape of provide force that moves the glacier. The Great Basin and include quartz monzonite, Lehman rock glacier measures 300 by 400 limestone, shale, siltstone, dolomite, and feet—its exact depth is unknown. quartzite. Limestone deposits are of special The park contains ten perennial streams, six Great Basin National P importance in the park because they contain subalpine lakes, and more than 425 perennial numerous cave systems. In addition to the springs. Five of the park’s six lakes are located famous Lehman Caves, Great Basin contains above 10,000 feet. All lakes are oligotrophic more than 45 additional wild caves (caves with (nutrient poor) and all were originally without no lighting or paved thoroughfares), most of fish, although they did harbor macroinverte- which are closed to protect their fragile ecosys- brates. Historically these lakes were stocked The summit of Wheeler Peak offers tems. Eight of these caves, which require special- with various trout species, but Baker Lake is the spectacular views of ized skills to explore, are open to the public only lake that still harbors fish populations the surrounding with a permit; an average of 20 permits are today. mountains. granted each year with an average of five members per party under the permit. Several of these caves are important hibernacula and

maternity roosts for various species of bats. The LOREN REINHOLD park closes these caves during certain parts of the year to limit disturbance to the bats. Park staff have mapped and surveyed most caves, and through this work they have discov- ered several endemic and new species of cave- dwelling fauna. A 2003 inventory uncovered a never-before-seen millipede (Idogona lehma- nensis), another new species of millipede that is still being described and also represents a new genus, and a new species of globular springtail that is still being described (Model Cave springtail, Arrhophilates sp.). The park is PLANT LIFE AT GREAT BASIN—TEN ECOSYSTEMS HARBOR RICH BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY KELLY COURKAMP A wide range of ecosystem types exists at Great Basin National Park, due to its variations in elevation, temperature, and moisture gradients. Communities range from hot desert to cold alpine. Isolation of the South Snake Range by the surrounding desert has led to the evolution of endemic plants and animals—species found here and nowhere else. Native plant species in 14 the park and the vicinity number more than 860; 41 are non-native. Notable native plant ark species include aspen (Populus tremuloides), whose stands are known for their biological diversity, and Great Basin bristlecone pines (Pinus longaeva), the oldest living tree species on Earth. The park has identified ten ecosystem types within its borders, as follows: Salt desert scrub/shrub covers a mere 1 Great Basin National P percent of land area in the park and consists of Pinyon-juniper forest Although aquatic areas compose a small two plant communities. The winterfat is the most prevalent percentage of total land cover in the park, they (Ceratoides lanata) community, dominated by ecosystem at Great are vitally important ecologically. Land- this single shrub species, provides important Basin National Park. dwelling animals in the desert environment forage for bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis), depend on these sources of scarce water. Fish are pronghorn antelope (Antilocapra americana), elk able to thrive in Great Basin due to these water (Cervus elaphus), mule deer (Odocoileus sources, and more than 100 species of macroin- hemionus), and many small mammals and birds. vertebrates, such as mayfly (Drunella sp.) and The salt flat community, sparsely vegetated with stonefly (Hesperoperla pacifica) nymphs, have large patches of bare ground, includes shadscale been documented in park waters, a sign of good (Atriplex confertifolia), winterfat, and greasewood water quality and a source of food for trout and (Sarcobatus vermiculatus). The spiny-tipped other native fish species. branches and coarse structure of greasewood Groundwater flows in the park are not well provide good cover for small nesting birds and understood; however, movement is likely small mammals, as well as forage for wildlife. through an unknown number of underground Northern desert scrub/shrub makes up 5 aquifers. Groundwater-fed surface waters in the percent of Great Basin, occupying valleys and park are at risk because Spring and Snake Valleys the lower slopes of adjacent mountains; it contain substantial underground aquifers that includes three communities dominated by sage- are being targeted for pumping and transport to brush. Many species of birds depend on sage- Las Vegas (see “Groundwater removal” on page brush ecosystems for survival, including the 20). Any decreases in flow of park streams and sage thrasher (Oreoscoptes montanus) and sage springs could adversely affect Great Basin’s sparrow (Amphispiza belli). water-dependent biological and geological Pinyon-juniper forest covers 29 percent of systems. Great Basin National Park and consists of one BRISTLECONE PINES—PARK PROTECTS “TIMBERLINE ANCIENTS”

“This tree is pre-eminently picturesque, far surpassing not only its companion species of the mountains in this respect, but also the most noted of the lowland oaks and elms. Some stand firmly erect, feathered with radiant tail tassels down to the ground, forming slender, tapering towers of shining verdure; others with two or three specialized branches pushed out at right angles to the trunk and densely clad with the tasseled sprays, take the form 15 of beautiful ornamental crosses … while on the roughest ledges of crumbling limestone are lowly old giants, five or six feet in diameter, that have braved ark the storms of more than a thousand years.” —JOHN MUIR

Bristlecone pines fascinate many people. resistant to insects, fungi, and rot.

Their twisted, hobgoblin shapes evoke char- Vegetation in bristlecone groves is sparse, Great Basin National P acters from J. R. R. Tolkien or The Wizard of limiting the role of fire as a threat. Oz, each a new and fantastic character. Bristlecone pines grow more rapidly in more Bristlecone pines are thought to be the favorable (i.e., warmer and less windy) envi- Naturalist, author, Earth’s oldest living organisms, with life ronments at lower elevations, where they do and preservationist spans of up to 5,000 years. Great Basin is not achieve their legendary age or bizarrely John Muir, pictured here in 1907, poeti- home to trees that are up to 4,500 years old. twisted shapes. cally described the Three closely related species of bristle- One bristlecone pine near Wheeler Peak, appearance of cone pine occur in the United States: Rocky dated to be more than 4,900 years old, was bristlecone pines. Mountain bristlecone pine (Pinus aristata) in cut down while still living and sectioned for Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; Great scientific research in 1964, before Great Basin bristlecone pine (P. longaeva) in Utah, Basin National Park was established. While Nevada, and eastern California; and foxtail scientists learned more about carbon dating pine (P. balfouriana) in California. and climate history by studying it, the sacri- Great Basin bristlecone pines in Great fice of this tree, known as Prometheus, Basin National Park grow in isolated groves caused a public outcry. Activism as a result just below tree line—also known as the of the martyrdom of this tree led to advo- timberline—hence the name, “Timberline cacy for the preservation of bristlecone Ancients,” as given by David Muench in his pines. These ancient trees are now 1972 book of that same name. Conditions protected on all federal lands. are harsh, with cold temperatures, a short growing season, and high winds. Bristlecone pines in these high-elevation environments grow very slowly, and in some years do not even add a ring of growth. This slow growth makes their wood extremely dense and FRANCIS M. FRITZ plant community with two principal tree golden eagles (Aquila chrysaetos) and peregrine species: single-needle pinyon pine (Pinus mono- falcons (Falco peregrinus).

©SUMMERSPOT phylla) and Utah juniper (Juniperus osteosperma). Mountain scrub, which includes taller WILDLIFE—ENDEMIC ANIMALS shrubs intermixed with forest stands, is vital PROTECTED, AQUATIC ECOSYSTEMS habitat for many bird species. It covers 18 RESTORED percent of Great Basin and is composed of three The variety and number of wildlife species in communities that vary with elevation—mixed Great Basin is unusual for the desert region, due shrub; mountain big sagebrush (Artemisia in large part to an elevation gradient, which tridentata)/grass; and mountain mahogany provides a multitude of habitat types, and to the (Cercocarpus ledifolius). park’s numerous water sources. Some animals 16 Deciduous forest and scrub covers 8 are endemic to the region. percent of the park and consists of riparian vege- A total of 67 mammal species are known to ark tation and aspen forest. Riparian areas (river occur or potentially occur in the park. Mule deer, and stream bank areas) not only provide Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, bobcat (Lynx wildlife with food and water, but also serve as rufus), ring-tailed cat (Bassariscus astutus), coyote important migration corridors. (Canis latrans), and beaver (Castor canadensis) are Mixed aspen/conifer forest covers 10 among the resident large mammal species. Sixty-seven mammal percent of the park. This system represents a Smaller mammals include several species of species are known to transition zone between the riparian shrews, mice, squirrels, and rabbits. The pygmy Great Basin National P occur or may occur in areas/aspen stands and higher, drier sites domi- rabbit (Brachyllagus idahoensis) is endemic to the Great Basin National nated by conifers. Great Basin region and is protected under Park, including Rocky Mountain bighorn Coniferous forest makes up 17 percent of Nevada law, listed by the state as at risk of extinc- sheep. the park and is found on northern exposures at tion or serious decline. Its primary habitat is old- mid- to high elevations. This community growth sagebrush; loss of this habitat to pinyon- consists of a mix of three trees: Engelmann juniper encroachment limits habitat for the spruce (Picea engelmannii), Great Basin bristle- rabbit in the park. At least ten bat species have cone pine, and limber pine (Pinus flexilis). been found in the vicinity of Great Basin, includ- Alpine tundra accounts for 8 percent of ing the Townsend’s big-eared bat (Corynorhinus Great Basin. It occurs above 10,000 feet in eleva- townsendii); the federal government and the State tion and consists primarily of small, low- of Nevada have listed subspecies of this bat as growing perennial herbs, grasses, sedges, and threatened, endangered, or of special concern. dwarf wildflowers. Depending on season and habitat type— Grasslands—robust areas of short- to mid- grassland, wetland, forest, desert, or alpine— grasses, the majority of which are native bird-watchers are treated to a multitude of species—cover 3 percent of the park. Non- species at Great Basin. One hundred fifty bird native species seen in these communities species use park habitat for part of their life include crested wheatgrass (Agropyron cristatum). cycles. Visitors to the park’s alpine area may spot Bare ground/rock covers 1 percent of the black rosy-finches (Leucosticte atrata), while park, primarily on steep slopes and rugged those who hike the Alpine Lake Loop trail occa- mountain crests above 7,000 feet. It is sionally catch glimpses of red crossbills (Loxia composed of exposed bedrock or broken rocks curvirostra) flitting in the aspens and pines. that harbor lichen colonies. While little plant Raptors use a multitude of habitats—prairie life occurs in this community, it provides vital falcons (Falco mexicanus) are visible as they soar cliff nesting sites for birds of prey, such as above the grasslands, while some visitors may observe a golden eagle tending chicks at a cliff Great Basin National Park is home to eight nest. Even waterbirds such as common snipe fish species. Four are native to the region— (Gallinago gallinago) and ducks, unexpected in Bonneville cutthroat trout (Oncorhynchus clarki the desert, are found in the park. utah), mottled sculpin (Cottus bairdi), speckled In 2006, the National Audubon Society dace (Rhinichthys osculus), and redside shiner recognized Great Basin National Park as an (Richardsonius balteatus). Due to a remarkable Important Bird Area (IBA)—a site that provides recovery program, native fish are thriving in essential breeding, migration, or wintering park streams. The other four fish species in the habitat for birds. The park received recognition park are non-native species that were intro- as an IBA for several reasons: its support of duced prior to park establishment—brook trout species of high priority for conservation; its (Salvelinus fontinalis), rainbow trout uncommon high-elevation desert habitats; and (Onchorynchus mykiss), brown trout (Salmo 17 its pristine, protected environment. trutta), and Lahontan cutthroat trout Eighteen reptile species occur in the South (Onchorynchus clarki henshawi). Non-native fish ark Snake Range, most in the lower elevations. were stocked in area streams and lakes for many Common snakes in the park include gopher years (up until 1986), first by miners and snakes (Pituophis cateniferer), Great Basin settlers, and later by government agencies to rattlesnakes (Crotalus lutosus), and night snakes improve recreational fishing opportunities. (Hypsiglena chlorophaeos). The common north- A wide variety of insects occurs in Great ern desert horned lizard (Phrynosoma platyrhi- Basin. More than 100 species of butterflies alone Great Basin National P nos), known as the “horny toad,” blends into have been identified, and these include only rocky ground and may be difficult to spot. those seen between May and August. Streams in Other lizards in the park include the region’s the park have been sampled for aquatic insects only skink and whiptail—the western skink since 1997, and a comprehensive list of more (Plestioclon skiltonianus) and Great Basin whip- than 200 species has been compiled. Park staff tail (Aspidoscelis tigris). As for amphibians, only survey beetles about every two years near the the Great Basin spadefoot toad (Spea intermon- Lehman Caves Visitor Center and Baker Creek tana) has been definitively found in the park. Road to determine their response to sagebrush

A remote camera captured this photo of elk browsing in the park. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE PARK RESTORES NATIVE FISH restoration. In 1999, as part of the Bonneville cutthroat trout reintroduction, the park initi- By the time Great Basin National Park was established in 1986, ated a large-scale study of macroinvertebrates to native fish had been almost wiped out, losing the competition for assess ecosystem health; 82 taxa were identified. limited resources with non-native fish. Through a cooperative And in 2006 and 2007, park staff surveyed effort with other federal, state, and nonprofit agencies, Great invertebrates in 15 park caves; 46 were found. Basin National Park began a Bonneville cutthroat trout reintro- Spiders, scorpions, and other arachnids also duction program in 1999, with outstanding results. Bonneville occur at the park. Very little is known about the cutthroat trout are now present in five of the six watersheds in spiders at Great Basin. Scorpions in the park are which they were historically found. As of 2006 there were not usually seen, as they are nocturnal. Several Bonneville cutthroat trout in more than 10 miles of creeks in and close relatives to true spiders have been identi- 18 near the park, and populations are expected to expand to cover fied as part of the park’s cave invertebrate inven- 19 miles by 2011—52 percent of their historic habitat in the park. tory, including the endemic Great Basin cave ark As a result of the successful Bonneville cutthroat trout pseudoscorpion (Microcreagris grandis), first program, the park began reintroducing the remaining three found in Lehman Caves. native fish species into lower Strawberry and South Fork Big Wash Creeks in 2005. In so doing, Great Basin has reintroduced all PAST AND CURRENT THREATS— native fish species to the park. This cutting-edge fisheries HUMAN PRACTICES PUT PARK management program will be closely monitored in years to come. RESOURCES AT RISK Great Basin National Park is one of the Great Basin National P country’s most remote parks, but even so, its natural resources have been compromised by historic and adjacent land use, and they face several ongoing and future threats. ©COREY KRUITBOSCH

Grazing. Although grazing is prohibited in most units of the National Park System, Great Basin is an exception. Since the mid-1800s, a few ranching operations have existed in the Snake Range, with land and public land grazing permits passed down through families. With the creation of Great Basin National Park in 1986, grazing within the park’s boundaries was allowed to continue in perpetuity. Soon after the national park was created, an agreement among the National Park Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the U.S. Forest Service coordinated the administration of seven grazing allotments in the park. These included five cattle allotments on the east side of park and two sheep allotments on the west side, both of which extended onto other public land (managed by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau Cooperation among the Park Service and other agencies and organi- zations has resulted in the successful reintroduction of native of Land Management). Bonneville cutthroat trout to Great Basin National Park. While allowed by the original legislation, continued cattle grazing in Great Basin National patterns in the park. The elimination of fire has Park resulted in conflicts in terms of resource shifted the landscape away from a diversity of management and visitor experience. In concert community types to predominantly late-succes- ©KAREN BURGESS with fire suppression, grazing degraded certain sional woody plant communities that contain a natural systems. And because many park visitors lot of vegetation that could fuel fires. As a result, were not accustomed to sharing a national park bird and animal species, including some that with cattle, they complained to park staff about are considered sensitive and dependent on the experience. In response, the park superin- shrub steppe, open woodlands, and ponderosa tendent and local ranchers began discussing ways pine habitat, are declining due to habitat loss. to address the issue. In December 1999—after In particular, recent inventories have shown much discussion, compromising, and fundrais- significant declines in the abundance of shrub ing—The Conservation Fund, aided by Senator steppe species such as yellow-bellied marmot 19 Harry Reid (D-NV), offered monetary compensa- (Marmota flaviventris), Merriam’s shrew (Sorex tion to ranchers for donating their grazing merriami), sagebrush vole (Lemmiscus curtatus), ark permits. (Once these permits were donated, they Brewer’s sparrow (Spizella breweri), and Sonoran could then be terminated.) Since the buyout, the mountain kingsnake (Lampropeltis pyromelana). park has restored several springs in the former In addition, two types of beetles—mountain allotments and removed 21 water structures. pine beetle (Dendroctonus ponderosae) and fir Sheep grazing is currently being phased out engraver (Scolytus ventralis)—are having increas- Shrub steppe species such as the yellow- in the Murphy Wash and Shingle Creek allot- ing impacts on park resources. They kill pine bellied marmot have Great Basin National P ments. Sheep within these remaining allotments and fir trees by entering the inner bark and declined due to in the park, which cover a relatively small area girdling the trees. They are both native species habitat loss. (fewer than 10,000 acres), were consistently that are becoming more destructive due to found outside the grazing boundaries, affecting changes in fire regimes and warming trends in sensitive alpine areas. In addition, the continued climate conditions. As larger numbers of trees presence of domestic sheep is a major threat to are killed, there is a corresponding increase in bighorn sheep populations in the park, partly the danger of catastrophic wildfire. because grazing reduces the amount of available Although much of the park has been affected forage, but mostly due to disease carried and by fire suppression and grazing, the sage-grass- passed on by domestic sheep. land ecosystem has been particularly hard hit, as pinyon-juniper and other vegetation have Fire suppression and loss of native systems. encroached onto the former sage steppe. One As with much of the Western United States, fire study estimates that 16,400 acres of former historically played an important role at Great sage-grassland habitat have been replaced by Basin, helping to shape the vegetative commu- other vegetation. The Lehman Flat area of Great nities found there. Since the arrival of Euro- Basin, historically 96 percent sagebrush (and American settlers in the mid-1800s, people have only 4 percent pinyon-juniper), had been suppressed fires in the region. From 1959 to reduced to less than 9 percent sage by 2004. The 1988, 83 fires were suppressed in the area now loss of sagebrush and grassland in the park has comprising the park, and only since the 1990s affected many species, particularly birds, voles, has the Park Service allowed any fires to burn and insects. Sage-grasslands support a higher naturally. diversity of wildlife species than the woody More than a century of active fire suppres- plant communities that replace them. sion (combined with grazing) has contributed In 2004 the park began to restore Lehman to landscape-level changes in plant successional Flat by removing certain woody species. The park has now completed several hundred acres rainbow, brown, and brook trout, outcompeted of shrub-steppe restoration and considers native fish, leading to their near extirpation by continued restoration efforts to be a top priority. the time of the park’s establishment. As part of their efforts to reintroduce native fish, park staff Non-native species. Non-native species plague have removed non-native fish when necessary. many national parks, and Great Basin is no While the Nevada Department of Wildlife exception, despite its remote location. Such has been stocking the mountain ranges of the species often gain entry when native ecosystems state with game birds for decades, the park suffer some sort of disturbance, such as livestock considers them non-native species. They grazing, altered fire regimes, or human activities include ruffed grouse (Bonasa umbellus), such as mining, agriculture, ornamental land- Merriam’s turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo merri- 20 scaping, or other development. Non-natives are ami), and gray partridge (Perdix perdix). Turkeys introduced via many routes. Some are planted are of particular concern, as their populations ark in gardens or during roadside stabilization proj- are growing, and resource managers do not ects, while others are introduced accidentally as know how they affect native species. contaminants in seed, animal feed, or even packing material. Non-native seeds and plant Groundwater removal. Great Basin owes parts are often spread on the hooves or hides of much of its ecological value and diversity to the animals, through animal and bird droppings, in water available in its streams and springs. the doors or undercarriages of vehicles, or on Unfortunately, water withdrawals to serve the Great Basin National P hikers’ clothing. populations in Las Vegas and southern Nevada Forty-one species of non-native, herbaceous are threatening groundwater that feeds Great plants occur in Great Basin National Park. Ten Basin’s water sources. Water rights were granted species of concern have been identified, due to with stipulations in 2007 to the Southern their invasive nature and threat to native plant Nevada Water Authority to pump 60,000 acre- communities: cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum), feet per year from Spring Valley. Streams, spotted knapweed (Centaurea maculosa), musk springs, and seeps in the park could be affected thistle (Carduus nutans), bull thistle (Cirsium because of the close proximity to the with- vulgare), field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), drawals. Several recent applications submitted common mullein (Verbascum thapsus), crested to the Nevada State Engineer by the water wheatgrass (Agropyron cristatum), Kentucky blue- authority also call for large-scale withdrawals of grass (Poa pratensis), common timothy (Phleum groundwater from Snake Valley for transport to pratense), and Russian thistle (Salsola kali). Las Vegas. According to a U.S. Geological Survey Cheatgrass is estimated to cover about 25 study, resources threatened by groundwater percent of the park. It invades disturbed habitat withdrawal include five watersheds; four stream and is usually found in areas that have been systems totaling 9.25 miles; 137 wetland acres; affected by grazing or fire suppression. Spotted 28 springs; 156 riparian acres; and 23 cave knapweed can move into undisturbed areas, systems found on 6,040 acres of land adminis- and the park aggressively treats it by spraying it tered by the National Park Service. In fall of with herbicide. In recent years, the park has 2009, hearings before the Nevada State eradicated three of the five known populations Engineer will determine if the Southern Nevada of spotted knapweed and park efforts have the Water Authority’s applications for groundwater remaining two in a state of control. rights in Snake Valley are granted. As mentioned in the “Wildlife” section on Water is critical for plants and animals in the page 16, introduced fish species, including desert environment of the park, including Great Basin National Park has some of the darkest night skies in the park system, but light pollution from growing regional population centers DAN DURISCOE/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE threatens this resource.

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unique species found only in regional springs, Mining. Tungsten, gold, silver, copper, and lead which are directly threatened by pumping of mining has occurred in the park, but currently groundwater. Loss of groundwater can also lead there are no active mines or claims, and mineral to the deaths of thousands of acres of deep- leasing is no longer permitted. The park has rooted shrub and wetland plant communities, reclaimed its 171 acres of abandoned mineral potentially leading to “dust bowl” conditions. lands as well as an estimated 21 miles of mine- Water withdrawals may affect aquifers, leading associated roads, work that entails smoothing to even greater impacts. In addition, the out or filling in excavated areas, replanting proposed water pumping plan would bring 200 some with native plants, or waiting for vegeta- or more wells with power lines, roads, and tion to naturally reclaim areas. The few remain- buried pipelines just outside the park, which ing structures on un-reclaimed lands in the park could lead to other problems such as habitat are remote. There are no known water quality fragmentation. issues from the abandoned hard rock mines. An additional water management issue, smaller in scale but still significant, involves the AIR AND WATER QUALITY—PARK three-mile long Snake Creek pipeline, which the BOASTS EXCELLENT VISIBILITY, CLEAN U.S. Department of Agriculture installed on WATER, AND DARK NIGHT SKIES behalf of ranchers to reduce losses along a Great Basin National Park has good data on air porous section of the streambed en route to the quality, with monitoring sites in the National town of Garrison. The adverse effects of the Atmospheric Deposition Program, Clean Air pipeline include loss of riparian vegetation, loss Status and Trends Network, and Interagency of fish and other aquatic habitat, and loss of Monitoring of Protected Visual Environments groundwater recharge, with unknown conse- program present in the park. Currently, the park quences for aquifers and downstream springs. enjoys exceptional air quality—on most days visitors can see more than 186 miles, and occa- booming growth of population centers, such sionally views exceed 230 miles. The park’s as Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, Provo, St. George, distance from urban areas helps buffer it from Cedar City, Ely, and other cities, poses light pollution, but emissions from Las Vegas, Los pollution threats to the region and to the park; Angeles, and occasionally, Salt Lake City do lights from these centers are visible on the travel as far as the park. Because of prevailing night horizon. southwesterly winds, Las Vegas is usually the Water quality of streams within Great Basin most significant source of vehicular nitrogen in National Park is excellent. The State of Nevada the park. Even greater sources of air pollution in defines Class A waters as relatively undisturbed Great Basin are the four coal-fired power plants by human activity, with no industrial develop- 22 within a 200-mile radius of the park. Additional ment or intensive agriculture. Four of the ten coal-fired power plants are proposed within 186 streams in the park earned Class A status by miles of Great Basin. It is estimated that each the state—Baker, Lehman, Pine, and Ridge ark year the new plants would emit into the airshed Creeks. In addition, Nevada is required by the millions of tons of carbon dioxide, thousands of Clean Water Act to conduct water quality tons of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides, and surveys and to report any water bodies that are hundreds of pounds of toxic mercury. This new “impaired”; no streams at Great Basin were pollution could make hazy skies the norm at reported as impaired. And a baseline study of Great Basin, and it could affect the pristine water all the perennial streams in the park found quality of the park’s lakes and streams, as well as Great Basin National P that 88 percent of water sampled fell in the the wildlife and fish dependent upon them. “optimal” condition category according to the Ground-level ozone, which is formed when Environmental Protection Agency’s Rapid nitrogen oxides and volatile organic Bioassessment Protocols. No stations or compounds react in the presence of sunlight, is streams received an overall score within the harmful to people, wildlife, and plants, and it is “poor” condition category. the primary component of smog. Five plant While the water quality in park streams is species that are potentially sensitive to ozone currently in good shape, the possibility of addi- grow at Great Basin National Park: western tional power plants in the area is a significant serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), evening threat to high-elevation lakes at Great Basin. In primrose (Oenothera elata), ponderosa pine particular, current nitrogen deposition in Great (Pinus ponderosa), aspen, and skunkbush (Rhus Basin (1.35 kg/ha/yr average from 2000 to trilobata). Based on low levels of ozone 2006) is approaching the level at which negative recorded in the park to date, the risk of injury ecosystem impacts might occur, based on effects to these plants is minimal, but increases in the to similar high-elevation lakes seen in Rocky levels of pollutants that lead to ground-level Mountain National Park. Nitrogen acidifies rain ozone formation (from sources such as new and acts as a fertilizer, making it possible for power plants) could result in higher ozone some plants and animals, including non-native levels at the park in the future. ones, to increase in abundance. In addition, the In 2005, the National Park Service’s Night lakes of Great Basin are considered to be acid- Sky Team, formed in response to the alarming sensitive, meaning that an increase in sulfur increase of light pollution and its effects on dioxide or nitrogen from the power plants national parks, visited Great Basin to test light could fuel negative effects at an even faster pace. levels. Night skies at Great Basin are some of the darkest in the park system, making it an ideal location for stargazing. However, KELLY COURKAMP

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CULTURAL RESOURCES— additional staff to assist with baseline research The Great Basin PROGRAM IN ITS EARLY STAGES; and museum and archival collections upkeep. Visitor Center in Baker, Nevada, MORE STAFF NEEDED Additional staff will allow the park to document includes exhibits that resources, care for them, and better interpret educate visitors The assessment rated the overall condition of them for visitors. The park has been approved about both cultural cultural resources at Great Basin National Park a for a base funding increase for 2010 that will and natural resources. 66 out of 100, which ranks park resources in help address these goals. “fair” condition. The cultural resources program Great Basin’s current resource management at Great Basin is in its infancy—prior to the plan requires major revision to establish addition of a cultural resources manager in resource priorities. A separate cultural resource 2003, little work was conducted. With the management plan is currently being developed exception of a term archaeologist currently at to guide protection in all programs—history, the park, this staff member has been the only archaeology, cultural landscapes, historic struc- employee responsible to date for management tures, museum collections and archives, and of cultural resources in the park. The park needs ethnography.

HISTORY—HISTORICAL RESEARCH AND by regional Park Service staff or through collab- ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY NEEDED oration with universities. Historic resource studies provide a historical History at the park is interpreted for visitors overview of a park and identify and evaluate its through wayside exhibits, brochures and cultural resources within historic contexts. They exhibits in the park’s visitor centers, and online also identify the need for any special studies and via the park’s website. During the summer make recommendations for resource manage- months, park rangers present interpretive ment and interpretation. Park staff rely on the programs that detail early exploration of the 1990 historic resource study Basin and Range: A area, namely the expeditions of Jedediah Smith History of Great Basin National Park for guidance. and Captain John C. Fremont. In addition, While broad in scope, the report lacks depth and rangers lead tours of Lehman Caves, actively 24 requires revision to meet current standards; staff interpreting the history of Absalom Lehman view it as more of a bibliography than a historic and other early settlers to the area. ark resource study. Another report, Lehman Caves: Its Human Story, serves as an additional source of CULTURAL LANDSCAPES—EARLY historical information for the park. This docu- ADMINISTRATION, MINING, AND ment, outlining the discovery and public use of TOURISM SITES REQUIRE ATTENTION Lehman Caves, was written in 1966 and has Cultural landscapes include natural and since been updated by staff through 1975. human-made features, illustrating the ways An administrative history describes a park’s people have adapted to and altered their Great Basin National P conception and establishment, and ideally, its surroundings through time. Great Basin management to the present day. A park’s legisla- National Park has identified four sites as tive history—as well as planning, land acquisi- cultural landscapes: Baker Ranger Station, tion and development, public relations, and Johnson Lake Mine Historic District, Lehman ongoing management concerns—are empha- Caves, and the Saint Lawrence Mine. A parkwide sized in this document. Great Basin National cultural landscape inventory was conducted in Park does not have a written administrative 2003, but it lacks the depth of analysis and eval- history; park staff rely on a limited administra- uation needed to adequately manage the identi- tive overview from 1909 to 1986 that is fied landscapes. To provide further information, included in the current historic resource study. the park conducted an additional cultural land- Funding for this project has not yet been scape inventory on the Johnson Lake Mine approved. Historic District in 2008; regional staff are In addition to the administrative history, currently writing this report. The team that special supplemental studies are needed for conducted the 2003 cultural landscape inven- important historical park topics such as mining, tory did not assess a fourth location, the Saint timber harvest, ranching, agriculture, grazing, Lawrence Mine. Though their report noted the settlement, and tourism and recreation. While former lead and silver mining operation as a secondary sources of information are available potential cultural landscape for further study, for many of these themes, all lack primary the site is located outside the park’s boundary. sources of professional caliber that park staff The Baker Ranger Station and Johnson Lake can use to bolster interpretation. Currently, no Mine Historic District sites were both listed in plans or pending requests have been made for the National Register of Historic Places prior to these studies. the cultural landscape inventory process; While there is not a historian on staff, histor- Lehman Caves may be eligible but has not been ical research is conducted on an as-needed basis evaluated for the register.

The Baker Ranger Station is a 2.5-acre much of the infrastructure. The abandoned and complex that served as a base for the U.S. Forest deteriorating mine elements are a testament to Service, which administered the area prior to the boom and bust cycles of mining in the creation of the national park. The station is American West. Enough of the structures remain composed of several buildings and the associ- to allow visitors to visualize the mining process. ated landscape from the 1930s, representing Natural processes and decay threaten the Depression-era construction. Lawn and vegeta- Johnson Lake site. Park staff must regularly cut tion, a nursery orchard consisting of trees back limber pines to prevent them from grafted from the Lehman orchard, irrigation encroaching on the landscape and to decrease canals, corrals, and fences help retain the feeling fire risk. The park has replaced rotting timber of an early 20th-century U.S. Forest Service foundations on some structures with rock ranger station. The wide-open qualities of a foundations and stabilized leaning walls and 25 rural outpost are integral to the landscape. The sagging roofs. visitor center and residential complex recently A cultural landscape inventory for the ark built nearby were carefully situated and Johnson Lake Mine Historic District is currently designed to be compatible with the Baker being written. Additional research regarding the Ranger Station, through the use of building district includes a Park Service Teaching with styles that complement the surroundings and Historic Places lesson plan, available as an inter- landscaping that features native plants. The pretive tool online. Using the plan, students Baker Ranger Station is an actively used historic explore how tungsten was mined and used at Great Basin National P district; its buildings provide housing and the turn of the 20th century, as well as learn storage (see the “Historic Structures” section on how archaeologists piece together the past using page 26 for information). The park needs a artifacts and other archaeological evidence. more in-depth study for the site to guide routine The Lehman Caves are an important and grounds maintenance and to ensure its spatial unique part of the history of recreation at Great qualities are preserved. Basin National Park. The famous caverns have The Johnson Lake Mine Historic District, on seen continuous visitor improvements ever the eastern slope of the Snake Range, comprises since Absalom Lehman placed simple stairs the remains of a tungsten mining operation there in 1885. The Civilian Conservation Corps Alfred Johnson established in 1910. The site is worked there in the 1930s, improving trails, remote, situated at an elevation of nearly 11,000 removing graffiti from walls, and creating a new feet, and is accessible only by a 7.4 mile round- tunnel entrance. In 1941, electrical lighting was trip hike (which gains more than 2,700 feet in installed to emphasize and illuminate cave elevation). Included in the site are the ruins of formations. Stone walls and stairs, minimal four log cabins; a stamp mill building; a log paths, and carefully placed light fixtures harken stable; an earthen dam; roads and trails; and back to the early recreational period of the park. associated landscape features, including a Inscriptions left behind by cave explorers, corral, an aerial tramway, a pipeline, and mine dating back to 1885, reinforce this quality. entrances. The mine’s setting, in a pine/aspen There is no cultural landscapes program at forest surrounded by mountain peaks, is Great Basin and the park does not employ a unchanged from the time of its establishment cultural landscape architect. Instead, the Park nearly a century ago. While mining activity at Service’s Pacific West Regional Office provides Johnson Lake continued sporadically following expertise and completes projects on an as- the end of World War I, it was permanently needed basis. The park needs cultural landscape halted in 1935 after a snow slide damaged inventories and reports, which are used to iden- BOWERSOX

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Visitors can experi- tify and develop specific projects to improve the Pole Canyon Safe, Pole Canyon Dugout, and ence the stunning landscapes, for both the Baker Ranger Station Robison Corral, all associated with agricultural formations within and Lehman Caves. Funding requests have been and ranching development. Another important Lehman Caves and learn about the submitted for preparation of these reports. site, Lehman Caves, has not been evaluated for history of cave explo- the National Register. ration on guided HISTORIC STRUCTURES—MAINTENANCE To date, the park has completed two historic tours offered AND PRESERVATION PLANNING NEEDED structure reports, both for stabilization work at throughout the year. Great Basin’s 24 historic structures represent the the Johnson Lake Mine site. There are currently history of the park through physical evidence of no funding requests for additional reports. mining, tourism, agriculture, and early park Threats to historic structures in the park are administration. Eighteen of the historic struc- primarily natural—hot desert sunshine, heavy tures are in “good” condition; the remaining six snow loads in winter, and encroaching vegeta- are in “fair” condition. Nineteen structures at tion that increases the risk of fire. No general Great Basin are listed in the National Register of funding is available for maintenance and Historic Places, associated with five different upkeep of historic structures; however, the park sites: Johnson Lake Mine Historic District; Baker received funding to repair five historic log build- Ranger Station; Rhodes Cabin; Lehman ings, listed in “poor” condition, at the Johnson Orchard and Aqueduct; and Osceola (East) Lake site, and crews also cut back vegetation Ditch. Additional structures include the Young there. Vandalism of historic structures has not Canyon Stone House, Tilford Spring Cabin, been an issue at the park, due in part to its

remote location and the low proclivity of back- orchard and a dairy by 1875. The seven apricot country users to vandalize. trees and one peach tree that remain perpetuate The Baker Ranger Station complex includes heirloom varieties of fruit from the time of early six structures listed in the National Register: settlers. Three-fourths of the aqueduct, which office; barn; warehouse; garage and storeroom; irrigated the orchard by carrying water 2 miles corrals; and paths and driveway. They are repre- from Lehman Creek, remain today. Portions of sentative of the functionally simple structures the aqueduct have been reconstructed and are used by the Forest Service in the Intermountain visible along the Mountain View nature trail West. The park’s chief of maintenance makes near the caves. The orchard was dissected by repairs (window repair, roofing repair, and construction of the park road and parking lot in painting, for example) as needed, but the park 1947. Park staff, with the guidance of an would like to establish a routine maintenance orchard management plan, actively maintain 27 schedule for the complex, currently in the the orchard. funding process. The Osceola (East) Ditch complex includes ark Park staff use several structures at the Baker the Osceola (East) Ditch, Osceola Ditch Tunnel, Ranger Station site. The garage and storeroom and the Stella Lake Rock Dam. The ditch, built were remodeled and updated to serve as a resi- in 1889–90, carried water 18 miles from dence for the fire manager, while the warehouse Lehman Creek and its tributaries on the east is used to store firefighting equipment and vehi- side of the Snake Range to gold mining opera- cles, and the barn is used for general storage. tions on the western slope of the Snake Range at Great Basin National P The office serves as the headquarters of the Osceola. Though water no longer runs through Great Basin Heritage Area Partnership, a multia- it, the ditch is still visible and marked in places gency group. by rock foundations, deteriorated remnants of Located just outside of Lehman Caves, the wooden flumes, and a 600-foot length of Rhodes Cabin is the most visited historic struc- tunnel; it has been adapted to serve as a hiking ture in the park. Built in the 1920s to provide trail. The Stella Lake Rock Dam was constructed accommodations for visitors to Lehman Caves to increase the amount of water stored to supply National Monument, the cabin was moved the ditch during dry seasons. from its original location in 1960 and placed on Great Basin National Park does not employ a a concrete foundation nearby. Although the full-time historic architect, but relies on special- move compromised some of its historic ists at the regional level as needed. Park plan- integrity, the cabin was placed in the National ning documents do not provide adequate guid- Register of Historic Places in 1975, due to its ance for historic structures protection—Great association with early tourism at Lehman Caves. Basin’s 1993 statement for management identi- Interpretive displays inside the cabin describe its fied gathering base information on historic sites history; this continued use of the structure helps as an objective, through research and inventory, ensure it is regularly maintained and preserved. yet the park’s resource management plan, Located just east of the Lehman Caves Visitor revised in 2000, gives minimal attention to Center, the Lehman Orchard and Aqueduct was historic structures. The park is currently prepar- also listed in the National Register in 1975. The ing a cultural resource management plan, and a orchard is significant for its ties to early agricul- routine maintenance schedule for the Baker tural and horticultural development in the complex is in the funding process. Funds are Snake Valley, and for its historic association also needed for historic structure maintenance with Absalom Lehman. He settled in the Snake projects at both the Baker Ranger Station and Valley around 1867 and had established a fruit Johnson Lake Mine sites. ARCHAEOLOGY—SURVEYS NEEDED TO requested funding for a new report. DOCUMENT RESOURCES SUCH AS Identified archaeological sites are entered CAVES, ROCK ART, AND into the Park Service’s Archeological Sites DENDROGLYPHS Management Information System database Great Basin National Park is home to archaeo- annually. To date, 177 sites at Great Basin have logical sites ranging from the Paleo-Indian been entered. Of these, 147 were listed in period (12,000–9,000 BC) to the more recent “good” condition; 15 were listed in “fair” condi- past, including rock art, artifact and lithic tion; 11 were listed in “poor” condition; and 4 (stone) scatters, and cave shelters. Sites from the were listed as “destroyed.” Existing archaeolog- period of Euro-American settlement are associ- ical data for the park are also entered into the ated with mining activities, ranching and Integrated Cultural Resources Database devel- 28 grazing, logging, mapping, and tourism. oped by the Western Archeological and At this time, a mere 3 percent of Great Basin Conservation Center. The database shows great ark has been systematically surveyed to professional potential as a user-friendly system of computer archaeological standards. Those areas that have files, geographic coordinates, and maps to assist been surveyed are the original Lehman Caves in the management of archaeological resources National Monument, the Baker Administration within the park. Site, developed campground areas, and most Seventeen known rock art sites in the park recently (2004–2005), springs in the 1,825-acre include nine petroglyph (art carved into rock), The Baker Ranger Mill Creek watershed. Survey crews discovered seven pictograph (art painted on rock), and one Great Basin National P Station complex, which dates to the undocumented historic and cultural artifacts in combined site. Upper Pictograph Cave at Grey 1930s, served as a the springs examined. A request to fund an Cliffs is the primary rock art site the park inter- base for the U.S. archaeological crew for a three-year prets. The Fremont people who inhabited the Forest Service. This (2011–2013) continuation of the springs docu- area between 1000 and 1300 AD probably agency administered mentation has not yet been funded. The archae- painted the drawings at Grey Cliffs. Seventy-six the area before Great Basin National Park ological overview and assessment of Great Basin different symbols on 23 panels, painted in red was created. is outdated (1988), but the park has not pigment, decorate rock walls inside and outside the cave. These symbols include trapezoidal human-shaped forms that depict Fremont kachinas and animal forms and graphics, such as abstract dots and lines.

MICHAEL TIMMONS Rock art sites are vulnerable to degradation by natural causes. Surface deposits build up on paintings, which fade each time they are cleaned; the rock substrate itself is also subject to gradual erosion. Natural threats are difficult to mitigate, adding urgency to the need to fully document all known sites in the park. Fire damage is another concern. Although funding has not been available to thin and prune vegeta- tion specifically for the protection of archaeo- logical sites, natural resource managers have devoted portions of their fire-control funds to reduce the risk of fire around Grey Cliffs. Additionally, the park has requested funding to

identify rock art sites for fire management and for dendroglyph documentation in the appropriate protection procedures. Strawberry Creek watershed. A more extensive Visitor use may also threaten the park’s rock three-year survey of aspen stands in all 23 art. Some use Pictograph Cave as an outdoor watersheds of the park has been proposed, bathroom, while others draw or etch new and is scheduled for funding in 2010. Due to symbols at the Baker Creek cave and rock shelter natural death of the trees, survey and docu- sites, or deliberately scratch at the pictographs mentation is paramount to preserve the there. Small signs have been placed near the cultural history these trees record. Baker Creek cave and rock shelter sites, asking No funding currently exists for a permanent visitors not to enter, but a trail counter installed archaeologist in the park, though a term archae- in the area recorded at least 250 unauthorized ologist is currently on staff. With this position, entries in 1998. The park has issued citations to the capacity for assessment and documentation 29 individuals found in the sites, but only as the of archaeological sites has increased; in fact, site result of chance encounters with violators. condition assessments for all archaeological ark While currently there is a lack of law enforce- sites were completed in 2008. This term posi- ment guidance to protect these sites, an tion will be made permanent in 2010 through Archaeological Resources Protection Act plan is an increase in the park’s base funding. currently being developed at the Park Service’s Pacific West Regional Office. To aid this plan- MUSEUM COLLECTION AND ning, the park will prepare a report on the ARCHIVES—STORAGE INADEQUATE, Great Basin National P condition of known archaeological sites in the COLLECTIONS UNCATALOGED park in 2009. Museum and archival collections at Great Basin The park has proposed archaeological docu- include 155,359 items, which are housed both mentation of Lehman Caves to record human at the park and off-site. The primary repository modifications to the caves since their discovery. for the park’s prehistoric artifacts is the Western This project would include mapping of early Archeological and Conservation Center in improvements made in the 19th century and Tucson, Arizona. during the Civilian Conservation Corps era of Museum items housed at the park are stored the 1930s. Photographic documentation of in a 475-square-foot modular building. The name inscriptions dating back to 1885 would park has requested funding to purchase new also be included. Because of the natural process shelving and storage cases for the collections. of water seepage, mineral deposits in the caves The Checklist for the Preservation and Protection of are obscuring these inscriptions; documenta- Museum Collections, a tool to measure a park’s tion should be conducted as soon as possible, conditions against Park Service standards for before the writing is completely concealed. The museum collection storage, protection, and park is still waiting for funds for this project. management, was last completed in 2007; all Carvings on aspen trees (dendroglyphs), items were accounted for, but only 60 percent of left behind by Basque, Peruvian, and the checklist standards were met, mostly due to Scandanavian sheepherders, are visible in deficiencies in storage conditions. parts of the park. Threats to these resources As most of the collection is located off-site, include fire and natural death of the aspen, a the park does not employ a museum curator tree with an average life span of 50 to 70 years. but has access to curators within the Park Park staff are engaged in efforts to document Service’s Mojave Network (six regional park the dendroglyphs with photography. In 2006, units that share expertise) and at the regional Great Basin received a small emergency grant level. At this time, they are the park’s only

sources for curatorial assistance and park staff culture, and mining history. In addition, there is consult them as needed. Because the park lacks a new exhibit currently being installed that will any on-site staff to enter new data into the contain a timeline describing more than 12,000 Automated National Catalog System, a years of human habitation in the Great Basin, systemwide database of collections informa- including occupation and use by Paleo-Indian, tion, staff are discouraged from bringing in any Fremont, Shoshone, and Paiute peoples, as well new artifacts discovered at Great Basin. The as by miners and ranchers. The display includes addition of an archival/museum technician three-dimensional representations of historic would allow the park to catalog newly discov- structures such as pithouses, wickiups, log ered and existing items in a timely fashion, as cabins, and sheepherder camps; pictographs, well as provide better care for the irreplaceable petroglyphs, and dendroglyphs will also be 30 collections, but funding requests for this posi- displayed. When the Baker visitor center tion were submitted and declined. In total, 60 opened, the former visitor center near the ark percent of the Great Basin museum and archival entrance to Lehman Caves was redesigned to collections remain uncataloged. focus interpretation on the caverns, and cave- When Great Basin hired its first cultural related artifacts are featured in exhibits there. resources manager in December 2003, the park The park’s current museum management archives were in disarray. Since that time, staff at plan was written in 1999 and staff acknowledge the Western Archeological and Conservation that it is too outdated to be useful. The Scope of Center have been processing the archival collec- Collection Statement, reviewed in 2005, guides Great Basin National P tion, and while the backlog remains significant, management of the museum and archival progress has been made. In 2007, 15,415 objects. archival items were cataloged, significantly There are a number of funding requests in reducing the park’s backlog percentage. place to improve the protection of the park’s A 1998 survey of collection users found that museum and archival collections. The park has researchers wanted better access to Great Basin requested funding for new shelves, cases, and artifacts, through a finding aid and improved appropriate containers to alleviate deficiencies computer and online databases. Researchers in storage space, as well as funding for manag- may view museum and archival collections ing museum collections in order to make them stored at the park under supervision, but in more accessible for scholarly research, which most cases, researchers go to the Western would include the digitization of all park Archeological and Conservation Center to museum records. The park has also requested conduct Great Basin research. funding to develop a museum emergency In 2005, the park opened a visitor center in response plan and a new museum manage- Baker, Nevada; support from the Great Basin ment plan for both the museum and library National Park Foundation made this facility collections. possible. It features exhibits, an informative film, and opportunities to interact with rangers ETHNOGRAPHY (PEOPLE AND and to purchase educational items. Items from CULTURES)—GREAT BASIN NATIONAL the natural history collections that describe HERITAGE ROUTE DESIGNATED major habitats, threatened species, global Before Great Basin was established as a national climate change, glacial geology, and bristlecone park, many groups of people lived on and used pines are part of visitor center displays. Cultural the resources of the land, including Paleo- history items displayed represent American Indians, Great Basin Desert Archaic peoples, Indians, frontier settlement, ranching and agri- and the Fremont. At the time of contact with Euro-Americans, the Western Shoshone inhab- federal, state, and local governments and the ited the immediate area around Great Basin, private sector. while some members of the Southern Paiute Ethnographic resources at Great Basin are tribe occupied areas to the south. interpreted through evening programs with The Shoshone lifestyle persisted until the rangers, exhibits in the museum and at 1870s, when increased Euro-American settle- waysides, and through literature from the visitor ment led to economies based on farming, center bookstore. A new exhibit in the Baker ranching, and mining. In 1875, conflict esca- visitor center displays reproduction prehistoric lated into what was referred to locally as the artifacts. Traditional activities such as annual “White Pine War.” The incident drove some 160 harvests of nuts from pinyon pine trees native Shoshone northward to Deep Creek from continue in the park today. Gathered in where they had assembled at Absalom September, these nuts provided one of the most 31 Lehman’s ranch. Gathering others along the significant food resources for ancient peoples of way, the drive through the Snake and Spring the Great Basin. Members of the Ely Shoshone ark Valleys virtually depleted the area of its Tribe, as well as other visitors, gather the nuts American Indian population. Later census each year. figures showed that small numbers of Great Basin National Park needs an ethno- Shoshone/Goshutes (inhabitants of Spring graphic overview and assessment to begin base- Valley) had returned to the Baker area and lived line documentation of ethnographic resources there into the 1930s. and guide future planning and protection Great Basin National P The park consults regularly with six affiliated efforts. The park’s draft cultural resources Some of the park's tribes, including the Ely Shoshone of Nevada, management plan acknowledges that existing aspen trees bear carvings left behind the Kaibab Paiute of Arizona, the Southern knowledge of ethnographic resources within by sheepherders. The Paiute Tribe of Utah, the Indian Peaks Band of and surrounding area of the park is lacking. park is engaged in the Southern Paiute of Utah, the Skull Valley Because there are no ethnographic studies in efforts to document Goshute, and the Confederated Tribes of the place for Great Basin, the park’s planning does these dendroglyphs. Goshute Reservation of Utah. In 1998, the park not adequately address ethnographic resources. A three-year survey of aspen stands in all worked with these groups as well as others to With sufficient funds and other support, the 23 watersheds of the successfully repatriate the remains of 21 individ- park would have the potential to expand its park is scheduled for uals—determined to be of American Indian ethnography program. funding in 2010. ancestry from the Shoshonean occupancy period—discovered in Lehman Caves. The remains were reinterred in accordance with the wishes of tribal leaders. In addition to native peoples, other tradi- tional users associated with Great Basin include U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY ranchers and sheepherders. Relationships with these groups are strong. Fourth- and fifth-gener- ation descendants of ranching families histori- cally affiliated with the area have been instru- mental in developing the Great Basin National Heritage Route—one of 40 congressionally established national heritage designations—in which conservation, interpretation, and other activities are managed by partnerships among ALANA DIMMICK

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Ranger-led interpre- STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY— Service’s Project Management Information tive programs are a System process. Of the regular park budget, the popular way to learn FUNDING AND STAFFING—RESOURCE only funding for cultural resources other than more about park PROTECTION THREATENED BY LACK history and resources. routine maintenance is the salary of the cultural The park needs two OF FUNDING, AND PERSONNEL resources manager. more permanent Stewardship capacity explores how well Certain activities related to natural and interpretive staff and equipped the Park Service is to protect the parks. cultural resources—considered to be of high three more seasonal The most significant factor affecting a park’s importance by the park—cannot currently be staff to expand its visitor services and ability to protect its resources is the funding it conducted, due to staffing and funding short- reach more visitors. receives from Congress and the administration. falls. These activities include development of an The net budget for Great Basin National Park active cave management program for the park’s was $2.45 million in 2008. more than 45 wild caves, general park geospa- Cultural resource projects at Great Basin are tial analysis, and sufficient backcountry patrols. funded using “soft money,” generated by Although funds from the Natural Resource submitting project proposals through the Park Challenge, a Park Service program, allowed the park to increase its natural resources staff from enforcement specialist/training officer. This one full-time permanent employee and two limits the number of projects the chief ranger part-time employees to five full-time permanent can complete, due to increased responsibilities employees, key positions still remain vacant at and workload. Great Basin. These include cave management Park managers would like to be able to specialist, hydrologist, and geographic informa- provide more campground talks and extended tion systems (GIS) analyst. Other vacant posi- visitor center hours, but with only about ten tions include purchasing agent and protection full-time equivalent interpretive staff, the park is specialist (ranger) positions. The park also unable to increase the level of visitor services requires additional administrative support for offered. An additional two permanent interpre- interpretation, protection, and resource tive staff and three seasonal staff would allow management. Due to the lack of a cave manage- the park to expand its visitor services. 33 ment specialist, the park is unable to monitor impacts from visitors, nor is it able to complete PLANNING—EXISTING PLANS NEED ark and implement a cave management plan. UPDATING, WHILE ADDITIONAL PLANS Without a GIS analyst, spatial analysis for all ARE UNDER WAY divisions (resource, protection, and mainte- Great Basin's general management plan, which nance) remains undone. Also due to vacancies, ensures that the park has a clearly defined direc- the functions of the two protection specialist tion for resource preservation and visitor use, (ranger) positions—minus safety officer was written in 1992 and has been scheduled for Great Basin National P duties—have been passed on to the park’s chief an update. Great Basin is on the list to adopt the ranger. This includes direct supervision of field Park Service’s new format, the resource steward- staff, serving as emergency medical services ship strategy (which will replace resource coordinator, structural fire coordinator, and law management plans), in 2011. Great Basin also

The Lehman Caves include rare shield features such as those shown here. Because the park lacks a cave U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY management special- ist, it cannot monitor impacts to caves from visitors, and it is unable to complete and implement a cave management plan. RESOURCE EDUCATION AND OUTREACH—NEW VISITOR CENTER WELCOMES AND INFORMS

MICHAEL TIMMONS The first stop for most guests to Great Basin National Park is its new visitor center, located on an 80-acre administrative site in the nearby town of Baker. Because it is a popular starting point for visitors, the facility plays an important role in education and outreach. Here, visitors can view exhibits, watch an informative film, purchase media on various topics, and interact 34 with park rangers. The park also operates a second visitor center at the entrance to Lehman ark Caves; this facility is devoted to education and interpretation of cave features and history. In addition to a stop at a visitor center, guests have other opportunities to learn about park A covered kiosk at has a current strategic management plan that resources. Twice a year, Great Basin publishes Wheeler Peak focuses on the park’s capability to set and meet The Midden, a resource management newsletter provides park infor- long-term goals through a resource assessment available within the park, online, and by written Great Basin National P mation to visitors. of its fiscal and human resources. According to request. Park staff provide guided tours of Park Service policy, however, although it shares Lehman Caves all year (except on Thanksgiving, some elements in common with a general Christmas, and New Year’s Day), and rangers management plan, a strategic plan is not a provide evening programs in the summer substitute for a general management plan, due months. In addition, the park’s Sky Islands to its lack of comprehensive resource analysis, Forest Trail meets wheelchair accessibility stan- consultation, and compliance. dards, allowing those with disabilities to experi- Other plans park staff use include a grazing ence a trail in the park; handicapped accessible management plan for sheep (1988), water campsites are also available. resources management plan (1994), fisheries In 2006, Great Basin National Park reached management plan (2000), aquatic monitoring 92,816 visitors through its visitor centers and a plan (2002), and fire management plan (2005). variety of interpretive programs, educational Additional plans are in progress at Great programs, and special events. This exceeds the Basin. The park is developing a draft vegetation park’s annual visitation because some visitors management plan, which would deal with tour both visitor centers as well as participate in issues such as non-native species control. programs. As mentioned on page 33 of the Other plans in progress include a bighorn “Funding and Staffing” section, the park needs sheep management plan, sensitive wildlife additional permanent and seasonal interpreters small mammal management plan, water to allow for expanded visitor services, including quality management plan, abandoned mine more interpretive programs. reclamation plan, and integrated pest manage- Staff at Great Basin National Park participate ment plan. in outreach with the surrounding community through emergency medical services, fire response, and providing a venue for group meetings. EXTERNAL SUPPORT—PARTNERSHIPS WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP: AND VOLUNTEERS PROVIDE NEEDED SERVICES • Participate in park planning efforts. The public is invited to Great Basin National Park has partnered with provide input on all park plans and studies. Check various organizations in its resource monitoring www.nps.gov/grba for information on Great Basin planning and management efforts, allowing park work and ways to participate. managers to meet goals with limited staff and • Support or become a member of a group helping to funding. These partners include the Great Basin protect the park, such as Great Basin National Park National Park Foundation, a nonprofit organi- Foundation (www.greatbasinfoundation.org), NPCA zation formed to promote and support projects (www.npca.org/support_npca), and other regional organizations. that enhance the values of Great Basin National Park. Formed in 1998, the foundation was • Volunteer. Great Basin is looking for dedicated people who 35 instrumental in obtaining funds for designing can lend a helping hand. To learn about opportunities, and constructing the $4 million visitor center contact the park’s volunteer coordinator at 775.234.7331, ark near Baker. extension 213. Trout Unlimited has been one of the • Become an NPCA activist and learn about legislative initia- strongest supporting membership organiza- tives and protection projects affecting parks. When you join tions of Great Basin National Park. In addition, our activist network, you will receive Park Lines, a monthly elec- the Desert Research Institute, a part of the tronic newsletter with the latest park news and ways you can Nevada System of Higher Education with nearly help. Join by visiting www.npca.org/takeaction. Great Basin National P 500 researchers, staff, and students, conducts research around the world, including at Great Basin National Park. The park has also bene- fited from a relationship with the Great Basin

Bird Observatory, which has conducted bird ALANA DIMMICK surveys and research. Recently, the Southern Nevada Grotto, a nonprofit caving organization based in Las Vegas, provided 200 hours of volunteer time to conduct a survey of Lehman Caves to produce a much-needed updated cave map. The Student Conservation Association regularly provides volunteers that donate hundreds of hours of service every year to Great Basin. The Nevada Conservation Corps has provided funding for trails. Because of its remote location, the park has fewer volunteers than larger, more accessible national parks, but Great Basin’s volunteer workforce is no less dedicated. In 2007, volun- teers donated 8,862 hours, maintaining trails, assisting with research, and staffing the infor- mation desk. The park’s fee supervisor coordi- nates volunteer activities. The Sky Islands Forest Trail is a wheelchair accessible route featuring interpretive signs that describe the surrounding high alpine conifer forest. APPENDIX: METHODOLOGY

36 To determine the condition of known natural and cultural resources at Great Basin National Park and other national parks, the National ark KELLY COURKAMP Parks Conservation Association developed a resource assessment and ratings process. The assessment methodology can be found online at NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks website: www.npca.org/stateoftheparks. Researchers gather available information

Great Basin National P from a variety of sources in a number of criti- cal categories. The natural resources rating reflects assessment of more than 120 discrete elements associated with environmental quality, biotic health, and ecosystem integrity. Environmental quality and biotic health meas- ures address air, water, soils, and climatic change conditions as well as their influences and human-related influences on plants and animals. Ecosystems measures address the extent, species composition, and interrelation- ships of organisms with each other and the Remotely located, visitation to Great Basin physical environment. National Park generally ranges from 69,000 to The scores for cultural resources are deter- 90,000 people each year. Visitors experience mined based on the results of indicator ques- the park’s dramatic landscapes and dark skies, tions that reflect the National Park Service’s and learn about the region’s human history. own Cultural Resource Management Guideline and other Park Service resource management summarized the results. The technical docu- policies. ments were used to construct this report, Stewardship capacity refers to the Park which was reviewed by staff at Great Basin Service’s ability to protect park resources, and National Park prior to publication. includes discussion of funding and staffing NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks repre- levels, park planning documents, resource sents the first time that such assessments have education, and external support. been undertaken for units of the National Park For this report, researchers collected data System. Comments on the program’s methods and prepared technical documents that are welcome.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

For more information about the NPCA thanks the staff at Great Basin National Park Center for State of the Parks® who reviewed the factual accuracy of information and this and other program reports, contact: used in this report. We also thank peer reviewers for their valuable comments and suggestions. National Parks Conservation Association Center for State of the Parks® CENTER FOR STATE OF THE PARKS® PO Box 737 ADVISORY COUNCIL Fort Collins, CO 80522 Phone: 970.493.2545 Ray Bingham E-mail: [email protected] General Atlantic Partners Or visit us at www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/ Keith Buckingham Design Engineer National Parks Conservation Association Pacific Regional Office Dr. Dorothy Canter Lynn Davis, Nevada Program Manager The Johns Hopkins University Phone: 702.318.6524 Dr. Francisco Dallmeier Email: [email protected] Smithsonian Institution Primary researchers: Kat Byerly, Bronson Tatton, Dr. Sylvia Earle Michael Timmons, and John Watson National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence Writer: Teri Kman Dr. Glenn E. Haas Editor: Elizabeth Meyers Colorado State University Copy Editor: Kelly Senser Design/Layout: Paul Caputo Bruce Judd Architectural Resources Group Center for State of the Parks Staff: Karl Komatsu Dr. James Nations, Vice President Komatsu Architecture Dr. Gail Dethloff, Director Erin McPherson, Cultural Resources Program Manager Dr. Thomas Lovejoy Elizabeth Meyers, Publications Manager H. John Heinz III Center for Science, Economics, Cathy Norris, Program Assistant and the Environment Kat Byerly, Cultural Resources Coordinator Robert Melnick Megan Lowery, Natural Resources Coordinator University of Oregon Daniel Saxton, Publications Coordinator Dr. Kenton Miller World Resources Institute, World Commission on Protected Areas Alec Rhodes Austin, Texas Dr. Roger Sayre United States Geological Survey Dr. William Schlesinger Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies Dr. Douglas Schwartz School for Advanced Research Dr. Lee Talbot George Mason University

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