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1 The Best of

Just the name Costa Rica conjures up images of dense rainforest, wild jungle water- falls, and deserted tropical beaches. Costa Rica is perennially one of the hottest desti- nations in Latin America. The country is a major vacation and adventure-travel destination, with over a million visitors each year. Despite the boom in vacationers, Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity, where you can still feel far from the maddening crowds. The country boasts a wealth of unsullied beaches that stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists, jungle rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud and rainforests with ample opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the country’s trade- mark eco- and adventure tourism offerings, recent years have seen the opening of a handful of large luxury resorts and golf courses, with more on the way. I’ve lived in Costa Rica for over 15 years, and my “best of” experiences keep on coming. In this chapter I’ve selected the very best of what this unique country has to offer. Most of these places and experiences are covered in greater detail elsewhere in the book; this chapter is merely meant to give you an overview of the highlights so you can start planning your own adventure.

1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica • Rincón de la Vieja National Park east): This is a prime place for an (northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste): ecolodge experience. Protected tropi- This is an area of rugged beauty and cal forests climb from the high volcanic activity. The Rincón de coastal lowlands up into the central la Vieja Volcano rises to 1,848m mountain, affording you a glimpse of (6,061 ft.), but the thermal activity is a plethora of life zones and ecosys- spread out along its flanks, where tems. Braulio Carrillo National Park numerous geysers, vents, and fuma- borders several other private reserves roles let off its heat and steam. This is here, and there’s a variety of ecolodges a great place to hire a guide and a to suit any budget. See “Puerto Viejo horse for a day of rugged exploration. de Sarapiquí” in chapter 7. There are COPYRIGHTEDwaterfalls and mud baths, • Arenal MATERIAL Volcano/Tabacón Hot hot springs, and cool jungle swim- Springs (near La Fortuna, northwest ming holes. You’ll pass through pas- of San José): When the skies are clear tureland, scrub savanna, and moist and the lava is flowing, Arenal Vol- secondary forest; the bird-watching is cano provides a thrilling light show excellent. See p. 155. accompanied by an earthshaking • The Río Sarapiquí Region (north of rumble that defies description. You San José between Guanacaste in the can even see the show while soaking west and the Caribbean coast in the in a natural hot spring and having a 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 5

THE BEST BEACHES 5 drink at the swim-up bar at Tabacón and the beaches here are perfect cres- Hot Springs Resort & Spa (& 519- cents of soft, white sand. See “Manuel 1900; www.tabacon.com). If the Antonio National Park” in chapter 8. rushing torrent of volcano-heated • Osa Peninsula (in southern Costa spring water isn’t therapeutic enough, Rica): This is Costa Rica’s most you can get a massage here at an remote and biologically rich region. incredibly inexpensive price. See , the “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna” in largest remaining patch of virgin low- chapter 7. land tropical rainforest in Central • Monteverde Biological Cloud For- America, takes up much of the Osa est Reserve (in the mountains north- Peninsula. Jaguars, crocodiles, and west of San José): There’s something scarlet macaws all call this place both eerie and majestic about walking home. Whether you stay in a luxury around in the early-morning mist nature lodge in Drake Bay or outside with the sound of bird calls all around of Puerto Jiménez, or camp in the and the towering trees hung heavy in park itself, you will be surrounded by broad bromeliads, flowering orchids, some of the most lush and most and hanging moss and vines. The intense jungle this country has to reserve itself has a well-maintained offer. See chapter 9. network of trails, and the community • Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals is truly involved in conservation. Not (on the Caribbean coast, north of only that, but in and around Mon- Limón): Tortuguero Village is a small teverde and Santa Elena, you’ll find a collection of rustic wooden shacks on whole slew of related activities and a narrow spit of land between the attractions, including canopy tours Caribbean Sea and a dense maze of that allow you to swing from treetop jungle canals. It’s been called Costa to treetop while hanging from a Rica’s Venice, but it actually has more skinny cable. See p. 246. in common with the South American • Manuel Antonio (near Quepos on Amazon. As you explore the narrow the central Pacific coast): There’s a canals here, you’ll see a wide variety reason this place is so popular and of herons and other water birds, three renowned: monkeys! The national types of monkeys, three-toed sloths, park here is full of them, even the and caiman. If you come between endangered squirrel monkeys. But June and October, you might be there’s plenty to see and do outside treated to the awe-inspiring spectacle the park as well. The road leading into of a green turtle nesting—the small Manuel Antonio provides numerous stretch of Tortuguero beach is the last lookouts that consistently produce remaining major nesting site of this postcard-perfect snapshots of steep endangered animal. See “Tortuguero jungle hills meeting the sea. Unin- National Park” in chapter 10. habited islands lie just off the coast,

2 The Best Beaches With more than 1,200km (750 miles) of • : If you shoreline on its Pacific and Caribbean really want to get away from it all, the coasts, Costa Rica offers beachgoers an beaches here in the northwest corner embarrassment of riches. of Costa Rica are a good bet. You’ll 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA The Best of Costa Rica Lake Nicaragua 0 25 mi BA IS H New L AM 1 AN A N Orleans D 0 25 km S DOMIN Golfo de G REPUB UA Santa Elena NA CA 4 Airport STE SSANTAANTA RROSAOSA RA 3 HAITI Ferry NG W Murciélagos NNATIONALATIONAL E 35 Mountain Islands PPARKARK Rincón de RRINCONINCON DEDE LALA VIEJAVIEJA la Vieja NNATIONALATIONAL 2 HONDURAS 1 PPARKARK Golfo de e 6 NICARAGUA u q I Lake s n Papagayo i t Coter 4 p e Liberia ra PANAMA

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34 PACIFIC 12 13 Cerro de Punta Uva la Muerte OCEAN Cabo Blanco 23 Absolute TA Isla del Coco LA 11 Nature Reserve Cerro MA (Coco Island) Chirripó NC A R AN MANUEL GE THE BEST OF NATURAL COSTA RICA THE BEST ADVENTURES ANTONIO Arenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot Springs 5 Battling a Billfish off the Pacific Coast 25 NATIONAL Braulio Carrillo National Park 19 Diving off Isla del Coco 11 PARK Manuel Antonio National Park 26 Hiking Mount Chirripó 23 Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve 6 Kayaking Around Golfo Dulce 28 Osa Peninsula & Corcovado National Park 27 Rafting the Upper Reventazón River 17 Rincón de la Vieja National Park 2 Surfing & Four-Wheeling Guanacaste 8 The Río Sarapiquí Region 15 Surfing Pavones 29 Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals 16 Windsurfing Lake Arenal 4

THE BEST BEACHES THE BEST BIRD-WATCHING W O The Beaches Around Playa Sámara 10 Aviarios del Caribe/Cahuita National Park 21 S A Malpais 12 Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge 3 P EN Manuel Antonio 26 14 24 IN SU Playa Montezuma 13 Cerro de la Muerte 24 LA Puerto Jiménez 26 Playa Tamarindo 9 La Selva Biological Station 18 Punta Uva & Manzanillo 22 Parque del Este 20 Santa Rosa National Park 1 Río Tempisque Basin 7 Wilson Botanical Gardens 30 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 7

THE BEST BEACHES 7

Houston USA BAHAMABA ISLANDSIS H NewNew Miami L AM NICARAGUA San AN A OrleansOrleans DS DODOMIN G Antonio REREPUB U Río S AN a Gulf of CUBA AC n A J MEXICO Mexico STE u SANTA ROSA RA an HAITIHAITI NGE Mexico City NATIONAL BELIZE JAMAICA PARK RINCON DE LA VIEJA Caribbean Sea NATIONAL HONDURASHONDURAS 2 PARK Río Colorado e GUATEMALA NNICARAGUAICARAGUA u q I s n í i t u BARRA DEL COLORADO EL SALVADOR p e r q a i PPANAMAANAMAANAMA m WILDLIFE SANCTUARY 0 250 mi m p e T

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PACIFIC OCEAN 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA have to four-wheel-drive or hike sense of individuality. European back- 13km (8 miles) from the central packers, vegetarian yoga enthusiasts, ranger station to reach the beach. and UFO seekers choose Montezuma’s And once you get there, you’ll find beach over any other in Costa Rica. only the most basic of camping facil- The waterfalls are what set it apart ities: outhouse latrines and cold- from the competition, but the beach water showers. But you will probably stretches for miles, with plenty of iso- have the place almost to yourself. In lated spots to plop down your towel or fact, the only time it gets crowded is mat. Nearby are the Cabo Blanco and in October, when thousands of olive Curú wildlife preserves. See “Playa ridley sea turtles nest in one of their Montezuma” in chapter 6. yearly arribadas (arrivals). See p. 161. • Malpaís: While the secret is certainly • Playa Tamarindo: Although devel- out, there’s still some time to visit opment here has given the town a Costa Rica’s hot spot before the crowded, chintzy and chaotic feel, throngs arrive. With just a smattering Tamarindo is still hanging on to its of luxury lodges, surf camps, and place on this list. Tamarindo has simple cabinas, Malpaís is the place to ample lodgings to suit every budget, come if you’re looking for miles of as well as excellent restaurants at deserted beaches and great surf. If almost every turn. The beach here is you find Malpaís is too crowded, long and broad, with sections calm head farther on down the road to enough for swimmers and others just Santa Teresa, Playa Hermosa, and right for surfers. Located about mid- Manzanillo. See “Malpaís/Santa Teresa” way along the beaches of Guanacaste in chapter 6. province, Tamarindo makes a good • Manuel Antonio: The first beach base for exploring other nearby destination to become popular in stretches of sand. There are plenty of Costa Rica, Manuel Antonio retains surfers here, as well as one of the its charms despite burgeoning crowds liveliest nightlife scenes on this coast. and mushrooming hotels. The See “Playa Tamarindo & Playa beaches inside the park are idyllic, and Grande” in chapter 6. the views from the hills approaching • The Beaches Around Playa Sámara: the park are enchanting. This is one of Playa Sámara itself is nice enough, but the few remaining habitats for the if you venture just slightly farther endangered squirrel monkey. Rooms afield, you’ll find some of the nicest with views tend to be a bit expensive, and least developed beaches along the but many a satisfied guest will tell you entire Guanacaste coast. Playa Car- they’re worth it. See “Manuel Antonio rillo is a long, almost always deserted National Park” in chapter 8. crescent of palm-backed white sand • Punta Uva & Manzanillo: Below located just south of Sámara, while Puerto Viejo the beaches of Costa Playa Barrigona and Playa Buena Rica’s eastern coast take on true Vista are two hidden gems tucked Caribbean splendor, with turquoise down a couple of dirt roads to the waters, reefs, and palm-lined north. See “Playa Sámara” in chapter 6. stretches of nearly deserted white- • Playa Montezuma: This tiny beach sand beach. Punta Uva and Man- town at the southern tip of the zanillo are the two most sparkling Nicoya Peninsula has weathered fame gems of this coastline. Tall coconut and infamy, and yet retains a funky palms line the shore, providing shady 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 9

THE BEST ADVENTURES 9 respite for those who like to spend a swimming. See “Puerto Viejo” in full day on the sand, and the water is chapter 10. usually quite calm and good for

3 The Best Adventures • Mountain-Biking the Back Roads more than 100km (62 miles) away. In of Costa Rica: The lack of infra- addition to these two prime spots, try structure and paved roads that most a turn at Playa Grande, Punta Lan- folks bemoan is a huge boon for gosta, and playas Negra, Avellanas, mountain bikers. There are endless and Junquillal. Or find your own back roads and cattle paths to secret spot. Rent a four-by-four with explore. Tours of differing lengths a roof rack, pile on the boards, and and all difficulty levels are available. explore. See chapter 6. Contact Coast to Coast Adventures • Battling a Billfish off the Pacific (& 280-8054; www.ctocadventures. Coast: Billfish are plentiful all along com). See p. 74. Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, and boats • Swinging Through the Treetops on operate from Playa del Coco to Playa a Canopy Tour: This unique adven- Zancudo. Costa Rican anglers hold ture is becoming quite the rage. In world records for both blue marlin most cases, after a strenuous climb and Pacific sailfish. Go to Quepos using ascenders, you strap on a har- (just outside Manuel Antonio) for the ness and zip from treetop to treetop best après-fish scene, or head down to while dangling from a cable. There Drake Bay, the Osa Peninsula, or are canopy tours all around Costa Golfo Dulce if you want some isola- Rica. Check the various destination tion. Costa Rica Outdoors (& 800/ chapters to find a canopy tour opera- 308-3394 in the U.S. or 282-6743 in tion near you. Costa Rica; www.costaricaoutdoors. • Rafting the Upper Reventazón com) can help you find a good char- River (near Turrialba): The Class V ter skipper or specialized fishing Guayabo section of this popular river lodge. See chapters 6, 8, and 9. is serious white water. Only experi- • Trying the new adventure sport of enced and gutsy river runners need Canyoning: While far from stan- apply. If you’re not quite up to that, dardized, canyoning usually involves try a 2-day Pacuare River trip which hiking along and through the rivers passes through primary and second- and creeks of steep mountain canyons, ary forests and a beautiful steep with periodic breaks to rappel down gorge. Plans to build a dam here have the face of a waterfall, jump off a rock thankfully been rejected for now. into a jungle pool, or float down a Ríos Tropicales (& 233-6455; www. small rapid. Pure Trek Canyoning riostropicales.com) can arrange either (& 479-9940; www.puretrekcosta of these tours. See p. 84. rica.com), in La Fortuna and Every- • Surfing & Four-Wheeling Gua- day Adventures (& 353-8619; www. nacaste Province: This northwestern everydaycostarica.com), outside of province has dozens of respectable Puerto Jiménez, are two of the prime beach and reef breaks, from Witch’s operators in this field. See chapters 7 Rock at Playa Naranjo near the and 9. Nicaraguan border to Playa Nosara 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA • Windsurfing Lake Arenal: With landscape with stunted trees and steady gale-force winds and stunning morning frosts. See “San Isidro de El scenery, the northern end of Lake General: A Base for Exploring Arenal has become a major interna- Chirripó National Park” in chapter 8. tional windsurfing hot spot. • Kayaking Around the Golfo Dulce: • Diving off the Shores of Isla del Slipping through the waters of the Coco (off the Pacific coast): Leg- Golfo Dulce by kayak gets you inti- endary among treasure seekers, pirate mately in touch with the raw beauty buffs, and scuba divers, this small of this underdeveloped region. Spend island is consistently rated one of the several days poking around in man- 10 best dive sites in the world. A pro- grove swamps, fishing in estuaries, tected national park, Isla del Coco is and watching dolphins frolic in the surrounded by clear Pacific waters, bay. Escondido Trex (& 735-5210; and its reefs are teeming with life www.escondidotrex.com) provides (divers regularly encounter large multiday custom kayaking trips out schools of hammerhead sharks, curi- of Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Penin- ous manta rays, and docile whale sula. See “Puerto Jiménez: Gateway to sharks). Because the island is so Corcovado National Park” in chapter 9. remote and has no overnight facilities • Surfing Pavones (on the southern for visitors, the most popular way to Pacific coast): Just 13km (8 miles) visit is on 10-day excursions on a live- from the Panamanian border at the aboard boat, where guests live, eat, southern reaches of Costa Rica’s and sleep onboard—with nights spent Pacific coast, Pavones is reputed to anchored in the harbor. See p. 260. have one of the longest rideable waves • Hiking Mount Chirripó (near San in the world. When this left-point Isidro de El General on the central break is working, surfers enjoy rides Pacific coast): The highest mountain of almost a mile in length. Much in Costa Rica, Mount Chirripó is one more can be said about this experi- of the few places in the world where ence, but if you’re a surfer, you’ve (on a clear day) you can see both the heard it all before. Contact Casa Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean Siempre Domingo (& 820-4709; at the same time. Hiking to Chirripó’s www.casa-domingo.com), the most 3,724m (12,215-ft.) summit will comfortable hotel in town, for cur- take you through a number of dis- rent wave reports and other local tinct bioregions, ranging from low- information. See “Playa Pavones: A land pastures and a cloud forest to a Surfer’s Mecca” in chapter 9. high-altitude páramo, a tundralike

4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks • Lankester Gardens: If you want a well-tended open garden to shady really pleasant but not overly chal- natural forest. See p. 129. lenging day hike, consider a walk • Rincón de la Vieja National Park: among the hundreds of distinct This park has a number of wonderful species of flora on display here. trails through a variety of ecosystems Lankester Gardens (& 552-3247) is and natural wonders. My favorite just 27km (17 miles) from San José hike is down to the Blue Lake and 1 and makes a wonderful day’s expedi- Cangrejo Falls. It’s 5.1km (3 ⁄4 miles) tion. The trails meander from areas of each way, and you’ll want to spend 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 11

THE BEST DAY HIKES & NATURE WALKS 11 some time at the base of this amazing • Monteverde Biological Cloud For- lake; plan on spending at least 5 est Reserve: In the morning rush of hours on the outing, and bring along high season, when groups and tours lunch and plenty of water. You can line up to enter the reserve, you’d also hike up to two craters and a think the sign said CROWD FOREST. crater lake here, and there’s the Las Still, the guides here are some of the Pailas loop for those seeking a less most professional and knowledgeable strenuous hike. This remote volcanic in the country. Take a tour in the national park is located about an morning to familiarize yourself with hour north of Liberia (it’s only the forest, and then spend the late 25km/16 miles, but the road is quite morning or afternoon (your entrance rough), or about 5 hours from San ticket is good for the whole day) José. See p. 155. exploring the reserve. Once you get • La Selva Biological Station: This off the main thoroughfares, Mon- combination research facility and rus- teverde reveals its rich mysteries with tic nature lodge has an extensive and stunning regularity. Walk through well-marked network of trails. You’ll the gray mist and look up at the have to reserve in advance (& 766- dense tangle of epiphytes and vines. 6565) and take the guided tour if you The only noises you’ll hear are the aren’t a guest at the lodge. But the rustlings of birds or monkeys and the hikes are led by very informed natu- occasional distant rumble of Arenal ralists, so you might not mind the Volcano. The trails are well marked 1 company. The Biological Station is and regularly tended. It’s about 3 ⁄2 located north-northeast on the hours by bus or car to Monteverde Caribbean slope of Costa Rica’s cen- from San José. See p. 246. tral mountain range. It’ll take you • Corcovado National Park: This 1 about 1 ⁄2 hours to drive from San large swath of dense lowland rainfor- José via the Guápiles Highway. See est is home to Costa Rica’s second- p. 223. largest population of scarlet macaws. • Arenal National Park & Environs: The park has a well-designed network There’s great hiking all around this of trails, ranger stations, and camping area. The national park itself has sev- facilities. Most of the lodges in Drake eral excellent trails that visit a variety Bay and Puerto Jiménez offer day of ecosystems, including rainforest, hikes through the park, but if you secondary forest, savanna, and, my really want to experience it, you favorite, old lava flows. Most of them should hike in and stay at one or are on the relatively flat flanks of the more of the campgrounds. This is volcano, so there’s not too much strenuous hiking, and you will have climbing involved. There’s also great to pack in some gear and food, but hiking on the trails at the Arenal the reward is some of Costa Rica’s Observatory Lodge, and the trail most spectacular and unspoiled down to the base of the La Fortuna scenery. Because strict limits are Waterfall is a fun scramble. It’s about placed on the number of visitors 1 a 3 ⁄2-hour drive from San José to La allowed into the park, you’ll always Fortuna and Arenal National Park. be far from the crowds. See “Puerto See “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna” Jiménez: Gateway to Corcovado in chapter 7. National Park” in chapter 9. 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA • Cahuita National Park: The trails away, so you can hike out on the trail here are flat, well-maintained paths and back along the beach, or vice versa. through thick lowland forest. Most of White-faced and howler monkeys are the way they parallel the beach, which quite common here, as are brightly col- is usually no more than 90m (295 ft.) ored land crabs. See p. 349.

5 The Best Bird-Watching • Observing Oropendola & Blue- • Sizing Up a Jabiru Stork at Caño Crowned Motmot at Parque del Negro National Wildlife Refuge: Este: A boon for city bird-watchers, Caño Negro Lake and the Río Frío this San José park rambles through a that feeds it are incredibly rich in collection of lawns, planted gardens, wildlife and a major nesting and gath- and harvested forest, but it also ering site for aquatic bird species. includes second-growth scrub and These massive birds are getting less dense woodland. Oropendola and common in Costa Rica, but this is still blue-crowned motmot are common one of the best places to spot one. species here. Take the San Ramón/ Caño Negro Natural Lodge (& 265- Parque del Este bus from Calle 9 3302; www.canonegrolodge.com) sits between Avenida Central and right on the edge of the refuge and Avenida 2. See p. 130. makes a great base for exploring this • Spotting Hundreds of Marsh & region. See p. 231. Stream Birds along the Río Temp- • Catching a Scarlet Macaw in Flight isque Basin: Hike around the Palo over Carara National Park: Home Verde Biological Station, or take a to Costa Rica’s largest population of boat trip down the Bebedero River scarlet macaws, Carara Biological with Swiss Travel Services (& 282- Reserve is a special place for devoted 4898; www.swisstravelcr.com) or bird-watchers and recent converts. Safaris Corobicí (& 669-6191; www. Macaws are noisy and colorful birds nicoya.com). This area is an impor- that spend their days in the park but tant breeding ground for gallinules, choose to roost in the evenings near jacanas, and limpkins, as well as a the coast. They arrive like clockwork common habitat for numerous heron every morning and then head for the and kingfisher species. Palo Verde is coastal mangroves around dusk. 1 about a 3 ⁄2-hour drive from San José. These daily migrations give birders a See p. 157. great chance to see these magnificent • Looking for More Than 300 birds in flight. The reserve is located Species of Birds in La Selva Biolog- about 2 hours from San José along ical Station: With an excellent trail the central Pacific coast. See p. 267. system through a variety of habitats, • Looking for a Resplendent Quetzal from dense primary rainforest to open in the Cerro de la Muerte: Don’t let pasturelands and cacao plantations, the name (Mountain of Death) scare this is one of the finest places for bird- you away from the opportunity to see watching in Costa Rica. With such a this spectacular bird, revered by the variety of habitats, the number of ancient Aztecs and Mayas. Serious species spotted runs to well over 300. bird-watchers won’t want to leave Contact the Organization for Tropi- Costa Rica without crossing this bird cal Studies (& 524-0607; www.ots. off their lists, and neophytes might be ac.cr) or see p. 223. hooked for life after seeing one of 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 13

THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR FAMILIES 13 these iridescent green wonders fly the bounty doesn’t end there—more overhead, flashing its brilliant red than 330 different species of birds breast and trailing 2-foot-long tail have been recorded here. Wilson Gar- feathers. Trogon Lodge (& 293-8181; dens is located about an hour outside www.grupomawamba.com) can almost the town of Golfito. See “Golfito: guarantee a sighting. The Cerro de la Gateway to the Golfo Dulce” in Muerte is a high mountain pass chapter 9. located along the way to San Isidro de • Taking Advantage of the Caribbean’s 1 El General about 1 ⁄2 hours from San Best Birding at Aviarios del Caribe: José. See “En Route to San Jose: In just a few short years, Aviarios del Three Places to See Quetzals in the Caribe (& 750-0775) has established Wild” in chapter 8. itself as the prime bird-watching • Spotting Hundreds of Species at resort on the Caribbean. If it flies Wilson Botanical Gardens: With along this coast, chances are good more than 7,000 species of tropical that you’ll spot it here; more than plants and flowers, the well-tended 330 species of birds have been spot- trails and grounds of this beautiful ted so far. Located on the Caribbean research facility are fabulous for bird- coast, Aviarios del Caribe is about a watching. Hummingbirds and tan- 3-hour drive from San José. See agers are particularly plentiful, but p. 351.

6 The Best Destinations for Families • San José: If you’re spending any time attraction features paths and sus- in San José, you’ll probably want to pended walkways alongside a series of be outside the rough-and-tumble impressive jungle waterfalls. Kids love downtown area. The best place for all the variety and vibrancy of the vari- of you to experience Costa Rica’s cap- ous attractions here, from the buzzing ital city (and still get a decent night’s hummingbirds to the impressive sleep) is the Meliá Cariari (& 888/ power of the waterfalls. The rooms at 956-3542 in the U.S. and Canada or the Peace Lodge here are some of the 239-0022; www.solmelia.com). With best in the country. See p. 114. facilities that include several large • Playa Hermosa: The protected pools, gym, casino, shuttle service to waters of this Pacific beach make it a a nearby spa and 18-hole golf course, family favorite. However, just because and a game room (not to mention a the waters are calm doesn’t mean it’s babysitting service), there’s some- boring here. Check in at Aqua Sport thing here for everyone. If you’re trav- (& 672-0050), where you can rent eling with teens, they’ll feel right at sea kayaks, sailboards, paddleboats, home at the nearby Mall Cariari, beach umbrellas, and bicycles. See which has a multiplex theater, an “Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá & indoor skating rink, and, of course, a Papagayo” in chapter 6. food court. Located just 15 minutes • Allegro Papagayo Resort (& 800/ from downtown, it’s well situated for 858-2258 in the U.S. and Canada exploring all of the city’s sights and or 248-2323; www.occidentalhotels. attractions. See p. 114. com): This large all-inclusive resort • La Paz Waterfall Gardens (& 482- probably has the most extensive facil- 2720 or 225-0643; www.waterfall ities, widest array of tours and activi- gardens.com): This multifaceted ties, and best-run children’s program 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA set up in the country so far. The hotel one of the local zip-line canopy tours. is located on a very calm section of See “Monteverde” in chapter 7. Bahía Culebra, and it even has a sep- • Playa de Jacó: On the central Pacific arate “Fun Club” on a beautiful coast, this is Costa Rica’s liveliest and nearby white-sand beach. See p. 166. most developed beach town. The • Playa Tamarindo: This lively surf streets are lined with souvenir shops, town has a bit of something for ice-cream stands, and inexpensive everyone. This is a great spot for teens eateries; there’s even a miniature-golf to learn how to surf or boogie-board, course. Older kids can rent a surf- or and there are a host of tours and boogie-board, although everyone activities to please the entire family. should be careful with the rough surf Hotel Capitán Suizo (& 653-0353; here. The Club del Mar Condo- www.hotelcapitansuizo.com; p. 185) miniums & Resort (& 643-3194; has an excellent location on a calm www.clubdelmarcostarica.com; p. 268) section of beach, spacious rooms, and is situated at the calm southern end a great pool for kids and adults alike. of the beach. The hotel has a large See “Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande” free-form pool and some shady in chapter 6. grounds, and is accommodating to • Monteverde: Located about 160km families traveling with small children. (99 miles) northwest of San José, this See “Playa de Jacó” in chapter 8. area not only boasts the country’s • Manuel Antonio: Manuel Antonio has most famous cloud forest, but it also a little bit of everything: miles of gor- sports a wide variety of related attrac- geous beaches, tons of wildlife (with tions and activities. After hiking almost guaranteed monkey sightings), through the reserve, you should be and plenty of active-tour options. able to keep most kids happy and There’s a load of lodging options, but occupied riding horses; squirming at Hotel Sí Como No (& 777-0777; the local serpentarium; or visiting the www.sicomono.com), with its large butterfly farm, frog pond, and hum- suites, two pools, water slide, and mingbird gallery. More adventurous nightly movies, is probably your best families can take a horseback ride or bet. See “Manuel Antonio National Park” in chapter 8.

7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Marriott Costa Rica Hotel (San • Peace Lodge (north of Varablanca; Antonio de Belén, San José area; & 482-2720 or 225-0643; www. & 888/236-2427 in the U.S. and waterfallgardens.com): While the Canada or 298-0844; www.marriott. bathrooms of the deluxe units here com): Of all the contenders in the are the most luxurious and unique in upscale urban market, the Marriott the country, everything else is done in seems to be doing the best job. grand style as well. Each room comes Maybe that’s just because it’s the with at least one custom-tiled Jacuzzi newest, but everything is in great on a private balcony. The hotel shape, the service is bend-over-back- adjoins the popular La Paz Waterfall ward, the restaurants are excellent, Gardens. See p. 114. and the hotel boasts all the facilities • Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica and amenities you could want. See (Papagayo Peninsula; & 800/819- p. 113. 5053 in the U.S. or 696-0000; 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 15

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS 15 www.fourseasons.com/costarica): luxurious rooms, an 18-hole golf This was the first major resort to course, tons of facilities and ameni- really address the high-end luxury ties, and a large maze of a pool built market in Costa Rica. Within its first to resemble the canals of Venice, this month of operation, both Madonna is one of the finest luxury resorts in and Michael Jordan were notable Costa Rica. The only real downside guests. A beautiful setting, wonderful here is the decidedly mediocre beach. installations, a world-class golf See p. 270. course, and stellar service continue to • Villa Caletas (north of Jacó; & 637- make this the current king of the hill 0505; www.hotelvillacaletas.com): in the upscale market. See p. 165. Spread out over a steep hillside high • Hotel Punta Islita (on the Pacific above the Pacific Ocean, these indi- coast in central Guanacaste; & 231- vidual villas have a Mediterranean 6122; www.hotelpuntaislita.com): feel. The Greek Doric amphitheater This is a great getaway. Perched on a follows the same motif. Carved into high, flat bluff overlooking the the hillside, the theater frequently Pacific Ocean, Punta Islita is popular features evening concerts of jazz or with honeymooners, and rightly so. classical music. The “infinity pool” The rooms are large and comfortable, here was one of the first in Costa Rica the food is excellent, and the setting is and is still my favorite. Sitting in a stunning. If you venture beyond your lounge chair at the pool’s edge, you’ll room and the hotel’s inviting hillside swear that it joins the sea beyond. See pool, there’s a long, almost always p. 270. deserted beach for you to explore, as • Makanda by the Sea (Manuel Anto- well as a wealth of activities for the nio; & 888/625-2632 in the U.S. or more adventurous. See p. 203. 777-0442; www.makanda.com): The • Flor Blanca Resort (Playa Santa large and luxurious villas here are won- Teresa; & 640-0232; www.florblanca. derfully decorated and set on a forested com): The individual villas at this hillside with wonderful views out to intimate resort are some of the largest the sea. The overall vibe is intimate and and most luxurious in the country. romantic, and the service and food are The service and food are outstanding, excellent as well. See p. 285. and the location is breathtaking, • Hotel Sí Como No (Manuel Anto- spread over a lushly planted hillside nio; & 777-0777; www.sicomono. just steps away from Playa Santa com): Although there are fancier and Teresa. See p. 215. more posh places in Costa Rica, the • Marriott Los Sueños Ocean & Golf large modern suites and villas, spec- Resort (Playa Herradura; & 888/236- tacular views, attentive service, and 2427 in the U.S., 298-0844, or 630- first-rate facilities here earn this small 9000; www.marriott.com): With large, resort a spot on this list. See p. 284.

8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels • Hotel Grano de Oro (San José; accommodations or professional service & 255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro. that can be found at the Grano de Oro. com): San José boasts dozens of old Throughout all the guest rooms, you’ll homes that have been converted into find attractive hardwood furniture, hotels, but few offer the luxurious including old-fashioned wardrobes in 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA some rooms. When it comes time to a sloping lawn that leads down to a relax, you can soak in a hot tub or rocky coastline, with a natural pool have a drink in the rooftop lounge carved into the rocks, all add up to while taking in the commanding my idea of a tropical paradise. See view of San José. See p. 109. p. 210. • Hôtel Le Bergerac (San José; & 234- • Hotel El Sapo Dorado (Monteverde; 7850; www.bergerachotel.com): This & 645-5010; www.sapodorado.com): classy little hotel has been pleasing Spacious wooden cabins with fire- diplomats, dignitaries, and other dis- places and private porches are spread cerning travelers for years. Ask for across an open hillside planted with one of the garden rooms or get the fruit trees and tropical flowers. The old master bedroom with its small hotel has an excellent restaurant and private balcony. See p. 110. is a great place to enjoy some of the • Villa del Sueño Hotel (Playa Her- best sunsets in town. See p. 251. mosa; &/fax 672-0026; www.villa • Cariblue Bungalows (Playa Cocles; delsueno.com): It’s not right on the & 750-0035; www.cariblue.com): beach (you’ll have to walk about 90m/ Try to get one of the private wooden 295 ft.), but everything else about bungalows here. If you do, you might this place is right on the money, be so happy and comfortable that you including clean, comfortable rooms; won’t want to leave. Just 90m (295 a nice refreshing pool; and an excel- ft.) or so away, however, are the warm lent restaurant. You can’t do better in waves of the Caribbean Sea. If this Playa Hermosa. See p. 168. place is full, the neighboring Azania • Amor de Mar (&/fax 642-0262; Bungalows (& 750-0540; www. www.amordemar.com): Clean, spa- azania-costarica.com), is just about as cious, and comfortable rooms set on good. See p. 362.

9 The Best Ecolodges & Wilderness Resorts The term “ecotourism” is now ubiquitous more toward researchers than within the travel industry, particularly in tourists, but that (along with the sur- Costa Rica. Ecolodge options in Costa rounding rainforest and extensive Rica range from tent camps with no elec- trail system) is what makes this one of tricity, cold-water showers, and communal the best ecotourism spots in the buffet-style meals to some of the most lux- country. See p. 223. urious accommodations in the country. • Arenal Observatory Lodge (near La Generally, outstanding ecolodges and Fortuna; & 290-7011; www.arenal- wilderness resorts are set apart by an ongo- observatory.co.cr): Originally a research ing commitment (financial or otherwise) facility, this lodge has upgraded quite to minimizing their effect on surrounding a bit over the years and now features ecosystems and to supporting both conser- comfortable rooms with impressive vation efforts and the residents of local views of the Arenal Volcano. There communities. They should also be able to are also excellent trails to nearby lava provide naturalist guides and plentiful flows and a nice waterfall. Toucans information. All of the following do. frequent the trees near the lodge, and • La Selva Biological Station (south howler monkeys provide the wake-up of Puerto Viejo; & 524-0628; www. calls. See p. 235. ots.ac.cr): Sure, this place is geared 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 17

THE BEST BED-AND-BREAKFASTS & SMALL INNS 17 • Monteverde Lodge (Playa Carate; the U.S. or 735-5237; www.nicuesa & 257-0766; www.monteverdelodge. lodge.com): This new lodge is by far com): One of the original ecolodges the best option on the Golfo Dulce. in Monteverde, this place has only Set in deep forest, the individual bun- improved over the years, with great galows here are a perfect blend of rus- guides, updated rooms and lush gar- ticity and luxury. See p. 327. dens. The whole operation is run by • Tortuga Lodge (Tortuguero; & 257- the very dependable and experienced 0766; www.tortugalodge.com): The Costa Rica Expeditions. See p. 252. canals of Tortuguero snake through a • La Paloma Lodge (Drake Bay; maze of lowland primary rainforest. & 293-7502; www.lapalomalodge. The beaches here are major sea-turtle com): If your idea of the perfect nesting sites. This is not only the nature lodge is one where your front most comfortable option in the area, porch provides some prime-time but it’s also another of the excellent viewing of flora and fauna, this place ecolodges run by Costa Rica Expedi- is for you. If you decide to leave the tions. See p. 344. comfort of your porch, the Osa • Selva Bananito Lodge (in the Tala- Peninsula’s lowland rainforests are manca Mountains south of Limón; just outside your door. See p. 313. & 253-8118; www.selvabananito. • Bosque del Cabo Rainforest Lodge com): This is one of the few lodges (Osa Peninsula; &/fax 735-5206; providing direct access to the south- www.bosquedelcabo.com): Large and ern Caribbean lowland rainforests. comfortable private cabins perched There’s no electricity here, but that on the edge of a cliff overlooking the doesn’t mean it’s not plush. Hike Pacific Ocean and surrounded by along a riverbed, ride horses through lush rainforest make this one of my the rainforest, climb 30m (100 ft.) up favorite spots in the country. There’s a ceiba tree, or rappel down a jungle plenty to do, and there are always waterfall. There’s fabulous bird- great guides here. See p. 321. watching here, and the Caribbean • Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge beaches are nearby. See p. 347. (Golfo Dulce; & 866/348-7610 in

10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns • Finca Rosa Blanca Country Inn valle.com): This is a great choice for (Heredia; & 269-9392; www.finca those who want something close to rosablanca.com): If the cookie-cutter the airport but have no need for San rooms of international resorts leave José. The separate cabins are influ- you cold, then perhaps the unique enced by traditional Japanese archi- rooms of this unusual inn will be tecture, with lots of polished more your style. Square corners seem woodwork and plenty of light. The to have been prohibited here in favor gardens are also meticulously tended, of turrets and curving walls of glass, and the chef is excellent. A nice tile arched windows, and a semicircular pool and Jacuzzi look out over a deep built-in couch. It’s set into the lush river canyon. See p. 115. hillsides just 20 minutes from San • Sueño del Mar (Playa Tamarindo; José. See p. 113. &/fax 653-0284; www.sueno-del- • Vista del Valle Plantation Inn (near mar.com): You might think you’re Grecia; & 450-0800; www.vistadel dreaming here. The rooms feature 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA African dolls on the windowsills, If you’ve ever dreamed about chuck- Kokopeli candleholders, and open-air ing it all and setting up shop in a sim- showers with sculpted angelfish, ple house right on the beach, you hand-painted tiles, and lush tropical should come here and give it a trial plants. The fabrics are from Bali and run first. See p. 331. Guatemala. Somehow all this works • Shawandha Lodge (Playa Chiquita; well together. Add in the requisite & 750-0018; www.shawandhalodge. hammocks under shade trees right on com): Spacious, individual bunga- the beach and a new small pool, and lows set amid flowering gardens and you really have something. The thick jungle make this the most com- breakfasts here are earning local fortable lodge on the Caribbean coast. renown; yours is included in the price Artistic touches abound. See p. 362. of your room. See p. 186. • Cabinas Casa Verde (Puerto Viejo; • Arco Iris Lodge (Monteverde; & 645- & 750-0015; www.cabinascasaverde. 5067; www.arcoirislodge.com): This com): This is my favorite budget small lodge is right in Santa Elena, and lodging along the Caribbean coast. it’s by far the best deal in the Mon- The rooms are clean and airy and have teverde area. The owners are extremely comfortable beds with mosquito nets. knowledgeable and helpful. See p. 253. The owner is friendly and is always • Cabinas Los Cocos (Playa Zancudo; doing some work in the gardens or &/fax 776-0012; www.loscocos.com): around the grounds. See p. 360.

11 The Best Restaurants • Tin Jo (San José; & 221-7605): In a • Sofia (Monteverde; & 645-7017): city with hundreds of Chinese restau- This restaurant serves excellent New rants, this place stands head and Latin fusion fare at a small space shoulders above the competition. In about halfway along the rough dirt addition to an extensive selection of road between Santa Elena and the Szechuan and Cantonese classics, Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve. there are Japanese, Thai, Indian, and See p. 255. Malaysian dishes on the menu. Tin Jo • Ginger (Playa Hermosa; & 672- has the most adventurous Asian cui- 0041): Serving an eclectic mix of tra- sine in Costa Rica. See p. 119. ditional and Pan-Asian-influenced • Grano de Oro Restaurant (San José; tapas, this sophisticated little joint is & 255-3322): This elegant little taking this part of Guanacaste by hotel has a similarly elegant restau- storm. They’ve got a list of creative rant serving delicious Continental cocktails to match the inventive dishes and decadent desserts. The dishes. See p. 168. open-air seating in the lushly planted • Nectar (at Flor Blanca Resort, Santa central courtyard is delightful, espe- Teresa; & 640-0232): Guanacaste’s cially for lunch. See p. 121. best boutique resort also has one of • Camarón Dorado (Playa Brasilito; its best restaurants. The menu & 654-4028): Simple, fresh seafood changes nightly but always has a served on plastic lawn furniture set in heavy Pan-Asian fusion flavor to it. the sand just steps from the crashing The setting is romantic and subdued waves makes this place a wonderful in an open-air space just steps from spot. The attentive, semiformal serv- the sand. See p. 217. ice makes it even better. See p. 179. 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 19

THE BEST VIEWS 19 • Playa de los Artistas (Montezuma; in Quepos. The chef’s creative con- & 642-0920): This place is the per- coctions take full advantage of fresh fect blend of refined cuisine and local ingredients. See p. 290. beachside funkiness. There are only a • La Pecora Nera (Puerto Viejo; & 750- few tables, so make sure you get here 0490): I’m not sure that a tiny surfer early. Fresh, grilled seafood is served town on the remote Caribbean coast in oversize ceramic bowls and on deserves such fine Italian food, but large wooden slabs lined with banana it’s got it. Your best bet here is to allow leaves. See p. 213. yourself to be taken on a culinary • El Patio Bistro Latino (Quepos; roller-coaster ride with a mixed feast & 777-4982): This casually elegant of the chef’s nightly specials and sug- little place has made a name for itself gestions. See p. 365.

12 The Best Views • The Summit of Irazú Volcano (near touch the volcano. Unlike on Irazú San José): On a very clear day you Volcano (see above), when this vol- can see both the Pacific Ocean and cano rumbles and spews, you might the Caribbean Sea from this vantage have the urge to run for cover. Most point. Even if visibility is low and this rooms here have spectacular views experience eludes you, you will have a from sheltered private patios or bal- view of the volcano’s spectacular conies. See p. 235. landscape, the Meseta Central, and • Villa Caletas (Playa Hermosa de the Orosi Valley. See “Holy Smoke!: Jacó; & 637-0505): You’ll have a Choosing the Volcano Trip That’s view over the Golfo de Nicoya and Right for You” in chapter 5. the Pacific Ocean beyond. Sunsets at • El Mirador Ehecatl (& 679-9104): the hotel’s outdoor amphitheater are This humble little restaurant holds a legendary, but it’s beautiful here dur- commanding view of Bahía Salinas. ing the day as well. See p. 270. It’s not necessarily worth the drive • Hotel La Mariposa (Quepos; & 800/ from San José, and the food is basic at 416-2747 or 777-0355; www.la best. But if you’re anywhere near La mariposa.com): This place has arguably Cruz, this is a must-stop for sunset. the best view in Manuel Antonio, See “La Cruz” in chapter 6. and that’s saying a lot. Come for • Iguanazul Hotel (Playa Junquillal; breakfast or a sunset drink because, & 658-8124; www.iguanazul.com): unfortunately, I’ve had bad luck with Located on a high bluff above Playa dinner here. See p. 283. Junquillal, this hotel has a wonderful • The Summit of Mount Chirripó view of the Pacific and the windswept (near San Isidro): What more can one coastline in either direction. It gets say? At 3,724m (12,215 ft.), this is best around sunset and is better yet if the highest spot in Costa Rica. On a you can commandeer one of the clear day, you can see both the Pacific hammocks set in a little palapa on the Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from hillside itself. See p. 193. here. Even if it isn’t clear, you can • Tabacón Hot Springs Resort & Spa catch some pretty amazing views and (near Arenal Volcano; & 519-1900; scenery. See “San Isidro de El General: www.tabacon.com): It seems so close, A Base for Exploring Chirripó you’ll swear you can reach out and National Park” in chapter 8. 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 20

20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA

13 The Best After-Dark Fun • Night Tours (countrywide): Most Pedro Church and heads north. If Neotropical forest dwellers are noc- you head straight 500m (1,640 ft.), turnal. Animal and insect calls fill the east from the church, you’ll come to air, and the rustling on the ground all Jazz Café (& 253-8933), which, as around takes on new meanings. its name indicates, often features live Night tours are offered at most rain- jazz. See “San José After Dark” in and cloud-forest destinations through- chapter 5. out the country. Many use high- • Mar y Sombra (Manuel Antonio; powered flashlights to catch glimpses & 777-0510): Located on the beach of various animals. Some of the better a couple of hundred meters from the spots for night tours are Monteverde, national park entrance, this is the Tortuguero, and the Osa Peninsula. most happening spot in the Manuel Volcano viewing in Arenal is another Antonio area. There’s a large, open- not-to-miss nighttime activity. air dance floor and plenty of tables set • El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte in the sand. If the dancing gets too (San José; & 221-0327): This is intense, you can always cool your feet where San José’s young, restless, and in the ocean. See “Manuel Antonio beautiful congregate. From Wednes- National Park” in chapter 8. day to Saturday the place is jam- • San Clemente Bar & Grill (Domini- packed. Originally a gay and bohemian cal; & 787-0055): This is a quintes- hangout, it is now decidedly mixed sential surfers’ joint, but whether you and leaning toward yuppie. There’s hang ten or not, this is where you’ll frequently live music here. See p. 139. want to hang out in Dominical at • San Pedro (San José): This is San night. The fresh seafood and Tex- José’s university district, and at night Mex specialties are hearty, tasty, and its streets are filled with students inexpensive. And there are pool, strolling among a variety of bars and Ping-Pong, and foosball tables, as cafes. If you’d like to join them, keep well as televised sporting events and in mind that La Villa (& 281-1571) surf videos. See “Dominical” in chap- caters to artists and bohemians, ter 8. Mosaikos (& 280-9541) is popular • Puerto Viejo: This small beach town with young Tico rockers, Omar on the southern end of Costa Rica’s Khayyam (& 253-8455) is a great Caribbean coast is one of the most place to grab an outdoor table and active after-dark scenes in the coun- watch the crowds walk by, and Terra try. Johnny’s Place and Stanford’s take U (& 225-4261) is the quintessen- turns as the major dance-and-party tial college bar, attracting a mix of spot, but there are several other hap- local and foreign exchange students. pening spots, as well as a few after- All of the spots listed above are hours beach bonfires and jam located in a 3-block stretch that sessions, to be found. See “Puerto begins 200m (656 ft.) east of the San Viejo” in chapter 10. 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 21

THE BEST WEBSITES ABOUT COSTA RICA 21

14 The Best Websites About Costa Rica • The Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net): best one-stop shop for Web browsing, A selection from the English-language with helpful links to a wide range of Tico Times makes it easy for norteam- tourism and general information ericanos (and other English speakers) sites. to see what’s happening in Costa • Maptak (www.maptak.com): This is Rica. It features the top story from its the best site I’ve found for online weekly print edition, as well as a daily maps. The site is still expanding and update of news briefs, a business arti- improving, and there’s a tiny bit of a cle, regional news, a fishing column, learning curve here, but this is overall and travel reviews. There’s also a link a very valuable resource. to current currency-exchange rates. • Superpages (http://english.cr.super • Latin America Network Informa- pages.com): This site has searchable tion Center (http://lanic.utexas.edu/ online versions of both Costa Rica’s la/ca/cr): This site houses a vast col- White and Yellow Pages. You can lection of diverse information about even do a reverse search to look up Costa Rica. This is hands-down the the owner of a phone number.