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The Best of Costa Rica Just 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 4 1 The Best of Costa Rica Just the name Costa Rica conjures up images of dense rainforest, wild jungle water- falls, and deserted tropical beaches. Costa Rica is perennially one of the hottest desti- nations in Latin America. The country is a major vacation and adventure-travel destination, with over a million visitors each year. Despite the boom in vacationers, Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity, where you can still feel far from the maddening crowds. The country boasts a wealth of unsullied beaches that stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists, jungle rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud and rainforests with ample opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the country’s trade- mark eco- and adventure tourism offerings, recent years have seen the opening of a handful of large luxury resorts and golf courses, with more on the way. I’ve lived in Costa Rica for over 15 years, and my “best of” experiences keep on coming. In this chapter I’ve selected the very best of what this unique country has to offer. Most of these places and experiences are covered in greater detail elsewhere in the book; this chapter is merely meant to give you an overview of the highlights so you can start planning your own adventure. 1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica • Rincón de la Vieja National Park east): This is a prime place for an (northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste): ecolodge experience. Protected tropi- This is an area of rugged beauty and cal forests climb from the Caribbean high volcanic activity. The Rincón de coastal lowlands up into the central la Vieja Volcano rises to 1,848m mountain, affording you a glimpse of (6,061 ft.), but the thermal activity is a plethora of life zones and ecosys- spread out along its flanks, where tems. Braulio Carrillo National Park numerous geysers, vents, and fuma- borders several other private reserves roles let off its heat and steam. This is here, and there’s a variety of ecolodges a great place to hire a guide and a to suit any budget. See “Puerto Viejo horse for a day of rugged exploration. de Sarapiquí” in chapter 7. There are COPYRIGHTEDwaterfalls and mud baths, • Arenal MATERIAL Volcano/Tabacón Hot hot springs, and cool jungle swim- Springs (near La Fortuna, northwest ming holes. You’ll pass through pas- of San José): When the skies are clear tureland, scrub savanna, and moist and the lava is flowing, Arenal Vol- secondary forest; the bird-watching is cano provides a thrilling light show excellent. See p. 155. accompanied by an earthshaking • The Río Sarapiquí Region (north of rumble that defies description. You San José between Guanacaste in the can even see the show while soaking west and the Caribbean coast in the in a natural hot spring and having a 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 5 THE BEST BEACHES 5 drink at the swim-up bar at Tabacón and the beaches here are perfect cres- Hot Springs Resort & Spa (& 519- cents of soft, white sand. See “Manuel 1900; www.tabacon.com). If the Antonio National Park” in chapter 8. rushing torrent of volcano-heated • Osa Peninsula (in southern Costa spring water isn’t therapeutic enough, Rica): This is Costa Rica’s most you can get a massage here at an remote and biologically rich region. incredibly inexpensive price. See Corcovado National Park, the “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna” in largest remaining patch of virgin low- chapter 7. land tropical rainforest in Central • Monteverde Biological Cloud For- America, takes up much of the Osa est Reserve (in the mountains north- Peninsula. Jaguars, crocodiles, and west of San José): There’s something scarlet macaws all call this place both eerie and majestic about walking home. Whether you stay in a luxury around in the early-morning mist nature lodge in Drake Bay or outside with the sound of bird calls all around of Puerto Jiménez, or camp in the and the towering trees hung heavy in park itself, you will be surrounded by broad bromeliads, flowering orchids, some of the most lush and most and hanging moss and vines. The intense jungle this country has to reserve itself has a well-maintained offer. See chapter 9. network of trails, and the community • Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals is truly involved in conservation. Not (on the Caribbean coast, north of only that, but in and around Mon- Limón): Tortuguero Village is a small teverde and Santa Elena, you’ll find a collection of rustic wooden shacks on whole slew of related activities and a narrow spit of land between the attractions, including canopy tours Caribbean Sea and a dense maze of that allow you to swing from treetop jungle canals. It’s been called Costa to treetop while hanging from a Rica’s Venice, but it actually has more skinny cable. See p. 246. in common with the South American • Manuel Antonio (near Quepos on Amazon. As you explore the narrow the central Pacific coast): There’s a canals here, you’ll see a wide variety reason this place is so popular and of herons and other water birds, three renowned: monkeys! The national types of monkeys, three-toed sloths, park here is full of them, even the and caiman. If you come between endangered squirrel monkeys. But June and October, you might be there’s plenty to see and do outside treated to the awe-inspiring spectacle the park as well. The road leading into of a green turtle nesting—the small Manuel Antonio provides numerous stretch of Tortuguero beach is the last lookouts that consistently produce remaining major nesting site of this postcard-perfect snapshots of steep endangered animal. See “Tortuguero jungle hills meeting the sea. Unin- National Park” in chapter 10. habited islands lie just off the coast, 2 The Best Beaches With more than 1,200km (750 miles) of • Santa Rosa National Park: If you shoreline on its Pacific and Caribbean really want to get away from it all, the coasts, Costa Rica offers beachgoers an beaches here in the northwest corner embarrassment of riches. of Costa Rica are a good bet. You’ll 05_944408 ch01.qxp 7/24/06 9:32 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF COSTA RICA The Best of Costa Rica Lake Nicaragua 0 25 mi BA IS H New L AM 1 AN A N Orleans D 0 25 km S DOMIN Golfo de G REPUB UA Santa Elena NA CA 4 Airport STE SANTASANTA ROSAROSA RA 3 HAITI Ferry NG W Murciélagos NATIONALNATIONAL E 35 Mountain Islands PARKPARK Rincón de RRINCONINCON DDEE LLAA VVIEJAIEJA la Vieja NNATIONALATIONAL 2 HONDURAS 1 PPARKARK Golfo de e 6 NICARAGUA u q I Lake s n Papagayo i t Coter 4 p e Liberia ra PANAMA m m e e Río Frío e T 4 T 8 T r ILA ic R LLakeake AArenalrenal T o o an í í H A Puerto Viejo o wy. 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