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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Go further with Lonely Planet 1 Book your travels 2 Talk to other PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a fl ight travellers 2 Looking for ideas and advice on a Find the right fl ight through our YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip specifi c destination? Want to share online booking service. your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head Welcome to Ethiopia, Reserve a room to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, In Ethiopia, Djibouti and Visit the Lonely Planet website to book where you’ll fi nd new posts every Welcome to Djibouti & Somaliland... 2 Somaliland, you’d be hard author-reviewed and recommended 12 seconds. Ethiopia, pressed to find a better Djibouti & combination of nature accommodation for any price range. Map .................................. 4 Somaliland and culture. The best part is, there’ll be no crowds to 17 Top Experiences ........ 6 hinder the experience. Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences Need to Know ................. 14 online for destinations around the globe. If You Like... ..................... 16 Month by Month ............. 19 lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/thorntreeonelyplanet.com/t A Land-lover’s Dream 13 Outdoor Adventures 15 Ethiopia’s landscape impresses in both 16 These countries beg outdoor escapade JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES ELK/GETTY JOHN scale and beauty. Travellers are thrilled by © CARILLET JEAN-BERNARD with their larger-than-life, hallucina- the amazing backdrop of canyons, chasms, tory landscapes. Hiking and trekking in Itineraries ........................ 21 lakes, savannah plains and high plateaus – Ethiopia’s Simien and Bale Mountains or not to mention the mesmerisingly desolate Djibouti’s Goda Mountains are obvious Danakil Depression, peppered with an as- choices. Then there are those must-do-be- tonishing 25% of Africa’s active volcanoes. fore-death moments like swimming with Lying at the convergence of three tectonic whale sharks in Djibouti’s Gulf of Tad- plates, Djibouti o ers a unique geological joura or diving on coral-encrusted wrecks Regions at a Glance ....... 25 landscape. The vast salt lake of Lac Assal o Djibouti City. Last but not least, Ethio- and the bizarre lunarscape of Lac Abbé pia and Somaliland rank among Africa’s are strangely unforgettable. Somaliland best birdwatching destinations, with wows visitors with its natural beauty, from plenty of endemic species. One thing is the superscenic Daallo Escarpment to the sure, you’ll be rewarded with memorable Talk to locals seemingly endless beaches that are strung experiences. 3 along the coast. 17 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES ZANDBERGEN/GETTY VAN ARIADNE With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES ZANDBERGEN/GETTY ARIADNE VAN Addis Ababa Berbera Daallo Forest Addis Ababa (p 30 ) (Somaliland) & Lookout where you’re going. 15 is evolving at a fast Berbera (p 328) feels (Somaliland) pace. The noisy, bustling 16 impossibly exotic. One of East Africa’s capital of Ethiopia is blessed Although only 150km to the with a balmy climate, with 17 last frontiers, the east of Hargeisa, this coastal Sanaag is the largest, most cloudless blue skies for city could not be more dif- regions about eight months of the sparsely populated and ferent from the capital. The year. It o ers plenty of cul- least developed province of history, climate, architecture Somaliland. Getting there tural highlights, including the and atmosphere of the town Ethnological Museum and is half the fun and involves seem to come from another a gruelling 4WD trip from the National Museum. Addis world. Though in dire need at a is also famed for its buzzing the capital. But the rewards of rehabilitation, the various are exceptional. The Daallo restaurant scene and night- historic buildings in the shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooksk life, with lots of eateries, bars, Forest (p 332 ) is noted for centre give an engaging char- its abundant wildlife. Cross galleries and clubs. Delve in! acter to the city, as do the Musicians playing drums at a the forest and you’ll reach a » big cargo ships in the port. glance Burchell’s zebras, Nechisar National Park (p156local wedding celebration lookout at the edge of the es- What’s more, Berbera boasts carpment, with mesmerising miles of deserted beaches views down into the valley. If that are great for swimming, you’re armed with a sense of relaxing and enjoying À ery adventure and have a taste southern Asia and a stash Festivals Trekking & Dramatic sunsets. for rugged travel, you’ll love of old-fashioned cafes Visitors are often over- Hiking Scenery this area. brewing up what some whelmed by the sense of For an unforgettable taste of The Horn of Africa is brim- devotion that emanates Ethiopia and Djibouti, grab ming with natural wonders might say is the best from the incredibly colour- coffee in the world. But your kit, lace up your boots from geological oddities ful festivals held throughout and head into the landscape to powerfully majestic good as all that is, it pales the region. Some are so that covers all the geological mountainscapes. Ethiopia, compared to the oppor- impressive that it’s worth highs and lows. Djibouti and Somaliland tunity to dip your fingers timing your trip around have countless places to Check out our full range of guides them. Bale Mountains The combina- 4 into some seriously deli- tion of wildlife, scenery and ready your wide-angle lens cious Ethiopian dishes. Meskel One of Ethiopia’s most quality facilities makes this a for some shutter-blowing Oh yes, your tummy will colourful festivals, Meskel is fantastic wilderness destination compositions. TravellingTravelling somewheresomewheomewheere else?else? StayingStayingyyin longerlonger in a particularparticula place? Check out our full range of be happy. famous for its cross-topped (p 144 ) Danakil Depression Truly Addis Ababa bonÀ res and elaborately dressed unique in the world, the sub-sea clergy (p 20 ) Menagesha National Forest Museums 333 Nightlife F ll th t il th h thi level volcanic landscape here is guides,guides, wriwrittentten and researched byby expertexpert authors to givee you an amazing travelt experience. Addis Ababa is one of the Food 33 most underrated nightlife Nightlife 33 capitals of Africa. Sure, there are bars and clubs like those at home by the dozen, but Ethiopia is nothing if not exotic Museums so why not try a night From your great-great- out with a difference? A (repeat endlessly) aunt Lucy tej bet, a bar serving tej in the National Museum to or honey wine, is a good the cultural insights of the place to begin. When Ethnological Museum or you’re done, catch some the bold and distinctive art live music (and a deeply of the capital’s numerous Ethiopian cultural im- PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you COUNTRYCOUNTTRY &&R REGIONALREGIONG AL DISCOVERDISCOVER POCKETPOCKET EBOOKS 215 TheTh freedom f ddd you need tot Full-colourFll l imagesi Perfect for The same great content ETHIOPIA can make sense of what you see plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks Ethiopia Today ................ 216 belief systems if Ethiopia w Ethiopia’s History ........... 218 (% of population) 100 people Ethiopian Culture ........... 239 43 34 Ethiopian Muslim 5 Get inspired to travel Orthodox Christian 19 35 would be Oromo The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting Ethiopian Cuisine ........... 259 27 would be Amara 3 1 6 would be Somali magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Protestant Traditional Other Ethiopia’s Go online to fi nd out more and see the latest subscription off er. Environment ................ 267 Ethiopian Cuisine Progress By now you’ve read enough of this book to know one thing: Ethiopia is Ethiopia has been developing at an astonishing rate. I unique. It has a culture that stands apart from all the nations around it; eading up to 2013, economic growth has, thanks to a hu its religious practices are different to all neighbouring nations and its climate is the polar opposite to the searing deserts that hem it in. So, we ilt ti l l th fl tktb lonelyplanet.com/magazine doubt you’d be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food, and the myriad ways in which it’s prepared, is not only some of the most diverse on the continent, but also totally different to any other cuisine you may have encountered. Plates, bowls and even utensils are replaced by injera, a one-of-a-kind ancake of countrywide proportions. Atop its rubbery confines sit deli ious multicoloured mounds of spicy meat stews, tasty vegetable curries STAY IN TOUCH nd even cubes of raw beef. hether it’s the spices joyfully bringing a tear to your eye or the slight ly tart taste of the spongy injeraa sending your tongue lonelyplanet.com/contact one thing’s for sure, Ethiopian fare provokes a strong reaction in all and AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-796-1 99725 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ lonelyplanet.com/ 9 781741 797961 management of the world’s forests.