Ethiopia-Djibouti-Somaliland-5-Cover

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Go further with Lonely Planet 1 Book your travels 2 Talk to other PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a fl ight travellers 2 Looking for ideas and advice on a Find the right fl ight through our YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip specifi c destination? Want to share online booking service. your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head Welcome to Ethiopia, Reserve a room to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum,

In Ethiopia, Djibouti and Visit the Lonely Planet website to book where you’ll ﬁ nd new posts every Welcome to Djibouti & Somaliland... 2 Somaliland, you’d be hard author-reviewed and recommended 12 seconds. Ethiopia, pressed to find a better Djibouti & combination of nature accommodation for any price range. Map ...... 4 Somaliland and culture. The best part is, there’ll be no crowds to 17 Top Experiences ...... 6 hinder the experience. Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences Need to Know ...... 14 online for destinations around the globe. If You Like...... 16 Month by Month ...... 19 lonelyplanet.com/destinations lonelyplanet.com/thorntreeonelyplanet.com/t

A Land-lover’s Dream 13Outdoor Adventures 15 Ethiopia’s landscape impresses in both 16 These countries beg outdoor escapade JOHN ELK/GETTY IMAGES © scale and beauty. Travellers are thrilled by JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET © with their larger-than-life, hallucina- the amazing backdrop of canyons, chasms, tory landscapes. Hiking and trekking in Itineraries ...... 21 lakes, savannah plains and high plateaus – Ethiopia’s Simien and Bale Mountains or not to mention the mesmerisingly desolate Djibouti’s Goda Mountains are obvious Danakil Depression, peppered with an as- choices. Then there are those must-do-be- tonishing 25% of Africa’s active volcanoes. fore-death moments like swimming with Lying at the convergence of three tectonic whale sharks in Djibouti’s Gulf of Tad- plates, Djibouti o՗ ers a unique geological joura or diving on coral-encrusted wrecks Regions at a Glance ...... 25 landscape. The vast salt lake of Lac Assal o՗ Djibouti City. Last but not least, Ethio- and the bizarre lunarscape of Lac Abbé pia and Somaliland rank among Africa’s are strangely unforgettable. Somaliland best birdwatching destinations, with wows visitors with its natural beauty, from plenty of endemic species. One thing is the superscenic Daallo Escarpment to the sure, you’ll be rewarded with memorable Talk to locals seemingly endless beaches that are strung experiences. 3 along the coast. 17 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN/GETTY IMAGES © With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter ARIADNE VANZANDBERGEN/GETTY IMAGES © Addis Ababa Berbera Daallo Forest Addis Ababa (p 30 ) (Somaliland) & Lookout where you’re going. 15 is evolving at a fast Berbera (p328 ) feels (Somaliland) pace. The noisy, bustling 16 impossibly exotic. One of East Africa’s capital of Ethiopia is blessed Although only 150km to the with a balmy climate, with 17 last frontiers, the east of Hargeisa, this coastal Sanaag is the largest, most cloudless blue skies for city could not be more dif- regions about eight months of the sparsely populated and ferent from the capital. The year. It o՗ ers plenty of cul- least developed province of history, climate, architecture Somaliland. Getting there tural highlights, including the and atmosphere of the town Ethnological Museum and is half the fun and involves seem to come from another a gruelling 4WD trip from the National Museum. Addis world. Though in dire need at a is also famed for its buzzing the capital. But the rewards of rehabilitation, the various are exceptional. The Daallo restaurant scene and night- historic buildings in the shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooksk life, with lots of eateries, bars, Forest (p 332 ) is noted for centre give an engaging char- its abundant wildlife. Cross galleries and clubs. Delve in! acter to the city, as do the Musicians playing drums at a the forest and you’ll reach a » big cargo ships in the port. glance Burchell’s zebras, Nechisar National Park (p156local wedding celebration lookout at the edge of the es- What’s more, Berbera boasts carpment, with mesmerising miles of deserted beaches views down into the valley. If that are great for swimming, you’re armed with a sense of relaxing and enjoying À ery adventure and have a taste southern Asia and a stash Festivals Trekking & Dramatic sunsets. for rugged travel, you’ll love of old-fashioned cafes Visitors are often over- Hiking Scenery this area. brewing up what some whelmed by the sense of For an unforgettable taste of The Horn of Africa is brim- devotion that emanates Ethiopia and Djibouti, grab ming with natural wonders might say is the best from the incredibly colour- coffee in the world. But your kit, lace up your boots from geological oddities ful festivals held throughout and head into the landscape to powerfully majestic good as all that is, it pales the region. Some are so that covers all the geological mountainscapes. Ethiopia, compared to the oppor- impressive that it’s worth highs and lows. Djibouti and Somaliland tunity to dip your fingers timing your trip around have countless places to Check out our full range of guides them. Bale Mountains The combina- 4 into some seriously deli- tion of wildlife, scenery and ready your wide-angle lens cious Ethiopian dishes. Meskel One of Ethiopia’s most quality facilities makes this a for some shutter-blowing Oh yes, your tummy will colourful festivals, Meskel is fantastic wilderness destination compositions. TravellingTravelling somewheresomewheomewheere else?else? StayingStayingyyin longerlonger in a particularparticula place? Check out our full range of be happy. famous for its cross-topped (p144 ) Danakil Depression Truly Addis Ababa bonÀ res and elaborately dressed unique in the world, the sub-sea clergy (p 20 ) Menagesha National Forest Museums 333 Nightlife F ll th t il th h thi level volcanic landscape here is guides,guides, wriwrittentten and researched byby expertexpert authors to givee you an amazing travelt experience. Addis Ababa is one of the Food 33 most underrated nightlife Nightlife 33 capitals of Africa. Sure, there are bars and clubs like those at home by the dozen, but Ethiopia is nothing if not exotic Museums so why not try a night From your great-great- out with a difference? A (repeat endlessly) aunt Lucy tej bet, a bar serving tej in the National Museum to or honey wine, is a good the cultural insights of the place to begin. When Ethnological Museum or you’re done, catch some the bold and distinctive art live music (and a deeply of the capital’s numerous Ethiopian cultural im-

PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you COUNTRYCOUNTTRY &&R REGIONALREGIONG AL DISCOVERDISCOVER POCKETPOCKET EBOOKS 215 TheTh freedom f ddd you need tot Full-colourFll l imagesi Perfect for The same great content ETHIOPIA can make sense of what you see plan the perfect trip. and top itineraries. a quick visit. with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks Ethiopia Today ...... 216 belief systems if Ethiopia w Ethiopia’s History ...... 218 (% of population) 100 people Ethiopian Culture ...... 239 43 34 Ethiopian Muslim 5 Get inspired to travel Orthodox Christian

19 35 would be Oromo The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting Ethiopian Cuisine ...... 259 27 would be Amara 3 1 6 would be Somali magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Protestant Traditional Other Ethiopia’s Go online to ﬁ nd out more and see the latest subscription oﬀ er.

Environment ...... 267 Ethio pian Cuisine Progress By now you’ve read enough of this book to know one thing: Ethiopia is Ethiopia has been developing at an astonishing rate. I unique. It has a culture that stands apart from all the nations around it; eading up to 2013, economic growth has, thanks to a hu its religious practices are different to all neighbouring nations and its climate is the polar opposite to the searing deserts that hem it in. So, we ilt ti l l th fl tktb lonelyplanet.com/magazine doubt you’d be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food, and the myriad ways in which it’s prepared, is not only some of the most diverse on the continent, but also totally different to any other cuisine you may have encountered. Plates, bowls and even utensils are replaced by injera, a one-of-a-kind ancake of countrywide proportions. Atop its rubbery confines sit deli ious multicoloured mounds of spicy meat stews, tasty vegetable curries STAY IN TOUCH nd even cubes of raw beef. hether it’s the spices joyfully bringing a tear to your eye or the slight ly tart taste of the spongy injeraa sending your tongue lonelyplanet.com/contact one thing’s for sure, Ethiopian fare provokes a strong reaction in all and AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-796-1 99725 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ lonelyplanet.com/ 9 781741 797961 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

ethiopia-djibouti-somaliland-5-cover.indd 2 7/03/2013 10:30:50 AM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 28 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Northern Ethiopia Djibouti p63 p297

Somaliland p319

Eastern Ethiopia Western Ethiopia Addis Ababa p172 p195 p30

Southern Ethiopia p131

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 275 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

me Ethiopia Directory A–Z .. 276 Insurance Medical insurance is c but policies differ. Check that the policy includes all the activities you want to do Some specifically exclude Ethiopia Transport ...... 287 ‘dangerous activities’ such as white-water rafting, rock climbing and motorcycling. Health Sometimes even trekking is excluded. Also find out whether your insurance will One who hides his ill- make payments directly to Health ...... 339 ness has no medicine; providers or will reimburse one who hides his prob- you later for overseas health lem has no remedy. expenditures (in Ethiopia, Ethiopian proverb Djibouti and Somaliland s expect payment in cash). Language ...... 347 Ensure that your travel in- As long as you stay up to surance will cover the emer- date with your vaccina- gency transport required tions and take some basic to get you to a hospital in a preventive measures, you’d major city, to better medical ave to be pretty unlucky facilities elsewhere in Africa, succumb to most of the or all the way home, by air Index ...... 357 lth hazards covered in and with a medical attend- chapter. Africa certainly essary. If you need impressive selection medical help, your insuranc al diseases on offer, company might be able much more likely to help locate the neare of diarrhoea (in hospital or clinic, or y Map Legend ...... 375 bank on it), a ask at your hotel. I mosquito gency, contact ease Me

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Jean-Bernard Carillet, Tim Bewer, Stuart Butler Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required

ADDIS ABABA ...... 30 AROUND ADDIS ABABA . . . 61 Entoto Mountains...... 61 Washa Mikael Church . . . . .61

NORTHERN ETHIOPIA ...... 63 ADDIS ABABA TO BAHIR DAR ...... 66 Debre Libanos ...... 66 Blue Nile Gorge...... 67 North to Bahir Dar ...... 67 BAHIR DAR & LAKE TANA ...... 68 Bahir Dar ...... 68 Lake Tana & its Monasteries ...... 72 Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay) ...... 76 GONDER & THE SIMIEN MOUNTAINS ...... 77 Gonder ...... 77 Around Gonder ...... 85 Simien Mountains National Park ...... 87 AKSUM & THE FAR NORTH ...... 93 Shire ...... 93 Aksum ...... 93 Adwa ...... 105 Yeha ...... 106 Debre Damo ...... 106 Adigrat ...... 107 ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY ...... 108 MEKELE & THE DANAKIL ...... 114 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. Ethiopia On the Road

Mekele ...... 115 Sof Omar Cave ...... 149 WESTERN Danakil Depression ...... 117 Dola-Mena ...... 149 ETHIOPIA ...... 195 LALIBELA & AROUND . . . . 118 SOUTH TO KENYA ...... 149 THE WESTERN Lalibela ...... 118 Dilla ...... 149 HIGHLANDS ...... 198 Around Lalibela ...... 125 Yabelo ...... 150 Gefersa Reservoir ...... 198 Addis Alem ...... 198 WOLDIA TO ADDIS Yabelo Wildlife ABABA ...... 128 Sanctuary ...... 151 Ambo ...... 198 Woldia ...... 128 Yabelo to Mega ...... 151 Mt Wenchi ...... 199 Hayk ...... 128 Moyale ...... 152 Guder & Around ...... 199 Dessie ...... 128 ARBA MINCH & Nekemte ...... 200 AROUND ...... 153 Kombolcha ...... 129 Nekemte to Bedele ...... 201 Arba Minch ...... 153 Bati ...... 129 Bedele ...... 201 Nechisar National Park . . .156 Menz-Guassa Community Metu ...... 202 Dorze ...... 158 Conservation Area ...... 130 Metu to Tepi ...... 203 Konso ...... 159 Tepi ...... 203 Around Konso ...... 160 SOUTHERN Mizan Tefari ...... 203 ETHIOPIA ...... 131 THE LOWER Southwest Omo Valley . . 204 OMO VALLEY ...... 161 HOSAINA ROAD ...... 134 Jimma ...... 205 Jinka ...... 164 South to Butajira ...... 134 Jimma to Weliso ...... 208 Around Jinka ...... 166 Butajira ...... 134 Turmi & Around ...... 168 Menagesha National Hosaina ...... 135 Forest ...... 209 Sodo ...... 135 EASTERN THE WESTERN South of Sodo ...... 135 ETHIOPIA ...... 172 LOWLANDS ...... 209 Gambela...... 209 RIFT VALLEY LAKES ...... 135 ADDIS ABABA TO Lake Ziway ...... 135 AWASH ...... 173 Lake Langano ...... 136 Debre Zeyit ...... 174 For Djibouti see p297 Abiata-Shala Lakes Awash National Park . . . . .176 National Park ...... 137 AWASH TO ASAITA ...... 178 Shashemene ...... 138 Asaita ...... 180 For Somaliland see p319 Senkelle Swayne’s DIRE DAWA, HARAR & Hartebeest Sanctuary . . . .140 AROUND ...... 181 Awasa ...... 140 Dire Dawa ...... 181 BALE MOUNTAINS ...... 142 Around Dire Dawa ...... 184 Dodola & Around ...... 143 Harar ...... 184 Bale Mountains Around Harar ...... 193 National Park ...... 144 Jijiga ...... 194 › Ethiopia, Djibouti & Somaliland

DahlakTigray MarvelIslands at the ancient rock-hewn churches (p108) Kassala Blue Nile E R I T R E A Adi Baba ASMARA

S U D A N River Badme Om-hajer Yeha Adigrat Shire D T i D Aksum e D a n k a l i a (Inda Selassie) p a To El g r a y Adwa r n e a Obeid r Danakil Depression Tekeze s River k s Dallol (320km) Wukro i i Journey to the centre o l Ras Dashen n of the earth (p117) (4543m) Abi Adi Mekele Irta'ale Debark Lake Volcano Gallabat Simien Afdera (613m) Metema Mountains Gonder National Gonder Park Sekota Be awed by intriguing Gorgora Abune Yosef castles (p77) (4190m) Lake Debre Lalibela Semera Roseires Tana Tabor Dam Gashena Woldia Logiya Asaita Bahir Guna Dar Maqdala A Roseires Bumbadi Guba (4321m) Lake Hayk Mille Reservoir C Blue Nile Falls h (Tis Abay) Dessie Bati o k e Mo Mota Lac Abbé u n Lalibela t Amba Farit Yangudi-Rassa Bure Mt Choke a (3975m) River Splendid underground i National Park le (4100m) n rock-hewn churches (p118) Ni River s Abuye Meda ue Debre Blue Nile (4000m) Bl Markos Dejen Gorge Awash Gewane Mendi Muger RiverFiche Debre Berhan Anger E T H I O P I A Debre Dire Dawa Falls Ankober Didesa Lake Libanos Kulubi Asbe Ghimbi Chomen ADDIS Awash Awash Tulu Welel Nekemte ABABA National Tefari (3302m) Ambo Arba Gara River Didesa Debre Park Muleta Wildlife Zeyit Awash (3405m) Jikawo Dembidolo Sanctuary Lake Mechara Gibe Gurage Nazret Gambela Bure Metu River Welkite (3721m) Koka Teylut Bedele Ziway C h e r e h e r &Wabe River Baro River Sor River Gambela Gore Butajira Meki A r b a G u g u National Park Waterfalls Abiata-Shala Lakes Asela M o u n t a i n s Abobo Agaro Lake Chilalo Sheikh National Park Ziway Gog Jimma Lake Abiata (4139m) Hussein Gecha Chira Hosaina Lake Langano Akobo Lake Shala Jara River Dimbira Bonga Senkelle Swayne’s Kaka (4190m) Hartebeest Sanctuary Shashemene Robe Tepi Goro Ginir Awasa Dodola Sof Omar Mizan Sodo Lake Wondo Goba Caves Awasa Genet Tefari Batu Bale Mountains Weyb River Lake (4307m) Omo Omo River Abaya National Park National Dime Dilla Dola-Mena Maji Park Guge Gelta S O U T H MountainsArba Welmel River S U D A N Jinka Minch Nechisar Dawa River Mago Lake National Park National Chamo Park Konso Negele Genale Riv Weyto Yabelo Wildlife Genale Murulle Sanctuary Borena River Turmi Omorate Yabelo Chew Bahir er (Lake Stephanie) Wachile Lower Omo Valley Lake Traditional villages and Turkana Mega markets (p161) Sibiloi National Park K E N Y A Moyale Bale Mountains Addis Ababa Spot rare and beautiful U G A N D A A capital in full swing (p30) animals (p144) Top Experiences ›

0 200 km 0 100 miles Y E M E N The international boundaries on this map serve as indications only. SAN'A The Ethiopia–Eritrea border awaits formal UN demarcation. Al-Hudaydah The self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland Lac Assal is currently an internationally unrecognised The lowest point on the but de facto sovereign state. African continent (p309) 14ºN

Hanish 48ºE Islands Lac Abbé Starkly beautiful lunarscapes46ºE (p309) Assab Berbera Les Sept Aden A coastal town steeped Frères in history (p328) G u l f o f A d e n D J I B O U T I ObockO 12ºN Galafii Lac Tadjoura Assal DJIBOUTI CITY Ali Loyaada Bosasso Dikhil Sabieh Zeila 44ºE Maydh Daallo Gelille Forest

Erigavo Berbera Borama Daallo Forest Las Geel Wajaale Sheekh A wildlife-rich forest and Togo- Wuchale HARGEISA fabulous views (p332) Burao Harar Jijiga Las Anod Babille S O M A L I L A N D

P U N T L A N D

O g a d e n D e s e r t Warder Kebri Dehar Las Geel An open-air gallery of prehistoric art (p326) Wa be Sheb Shilabo ele River ELEVATION

4000m 3000m Ferfer 2000m S O M A L I A 1000m 0 o 4ºN Harar A city with a palpable historical aura (p184) OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip, Djibouti, Somaliland A Paris-based journalist and photographer, Jean-Bernard is a die-hard Africa lover who never misses an opportunity to explore the continent. He has travelled the breadth and length of Africa for more than two decades now and has been thoroughly enlightened by 23 of its amazing countries. Highlights researching for this edition included exploring the far-flung provinces of Somaliland, drinking fresh camel milk with Somali friends in the bush around Hargeisa, getting up close and personal with a massive guitar shark off Moucha Island and following the steps of archaeologists in northern Djibouti. Jean- Bernard’s wanderlust has taken him to six continents, inspiring numerous articles and some 30 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet’s Africa and West Africa.

Tim Bewer Northern Ethiopia, Southern Ethiopia, Eastern Ethiopia Growing up, Tim didn’t travel much except for the obligatory pilgrimage to Disney World and an annual lake-side summer week. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited over 80 countries. After university he worked as a legislative assistant before quitting capitol life to backpack around West Africa. During this trip the idea of becoming a travel writer/photographer was hatched, and he’s been at it ever since, returning to Africa 10 times in the process. When he isn’t shouldering a backpack somewhere for work or pleasure, he lives in Khon Kaen, Thailand, where he runs a tour company. Read more about Tim at: lonelyplanet.com/members/timbewer Stuart Butler Addis Ababa, Western Ethiopia, Understand Ethiopia, Ethiopia Directory A–Z, Ethiopia Transport Stuart first visited Ethiopia in the early 1990s shortly after the fall of the Derg. He was utterly infatuated with what he saw and has returned to Ethiopia many times since; each time the country has woven its spell on him a little more. Stuart’s travels, both for Lonely Planet and various surf magazines, have taken him beyond Ethiopia, from the coastal deserts of Pakistan to the jungles of Colombia. He now lives in southwest France with his wife and young son. Find Stuart at www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at: lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – June 2013 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 796 1 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 21 itineraries Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/ thorntree to chat with other travellers.

YEMEN ERITREA

DJIBOUTI Goda Mountains R Moucha É •#Island Lac Assal•# #_ Djibouti RED SEA

É É City É Lac Abbé #•

#– ETHIOPIA Berbera •#

É # – É Togo- #• •# Las Wuchale Geel •# Jijiga •# Hargeisa •# Harar SOMALILAND É #_ Addis Ababa #÷ Awash National Park

Three Weeks The Grand Tour

Start by spending two full days in fascinating Addis Ababa. Once you’ve had your fill of Addis’ joys, forge east to Awash National Park for some great wildlife watch- ing. Spend a day in the park and continue on to the eastern belle of Harar, whose at- tractive architecture, active markets and unique and unforgettable ambience deserve at least two days. You might make a half-day stop in Jijiga to recharge the batteries before hopping on a bus to Togo-Wuchale, at the border with Somaliland. From the border it’s an easy taxi ride to Hargeisa. After a day or two recuperating in the laid-back capital of Somaliland, arrange for a car and driver to take you to the fantastic archaeological site of Las Geel and the atmosphere-laden coastal town of Berbera – you’ll need at least two days to do the area justice. Back in Hargeisa, fly to Djibouti City, which merits at least several days for relaxing and exploring. Sign up for a three-day tour taking in Lac Abbé, Lac Assal and the Goda Mountains. Stop for a night on the island of Moucha before flying back to Addis Ababa. 22

#_ Addis Ababa Adadi Maryam•# •#Debre Zeyit Tiya •# Lake Hare Sheitan•# Lake É Ziway Abiata-Shala Lakes #÷ National Park •#Lake

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Langano

É Awasa •# É É Dodola •# #÷Bale Mountains National Park

É ITINERARIES

Dorze#• Mago Jinka Arba •# Nechisar #÷ National National •# Minch Park #÷ •# Park Key Afar Lower Omo

Valley Konso

É É É Villages É •# É

SOUTH •# Dimeka SUDAN Omorate •# •# Tu r m i •#El Sod

Two to Three Weeks Southern Ethiopia

While most visitors come to Ethiopia because of what’s on offer in the north, it’s just as rewarding to point your compass south. You could start with the impressive rock- hewn church of Adadi Maryam. Then head south to World Heritage–listed Tiya, one of southern Ethiopia’s most important stelae fields. Little is known about their significance; some of them are engraved with enigmatic symbols, which adds to the sense of mystery. Next stop: Lake Hare Sheitan, some 50km south of Tiya. It’s a circular crater lake filled with deep-green waters – very photogenic. Southwestern Ethiopia’s largest city, Arba Minch is a good base if you want to explore the nearby Nechisar National Park, where you’ll have good chance to spot gargantuan crocodiles, zebras, Swayne’s hartebeest and the odd Abyssinian lion. From Arba Minch you can also detour up the mountains to see the woven houses and traditional lifestyle in a Dorze village and then continue south and visit the amazing, fortresslike Konso villages, at the gateway to the cultural riches of the Lower Omo Valley. In Omo, visits to ethnic villages such as those of the Mursi above Mago National Park, the Karo northwest of Turmi and the Daasanach along the mighty Omo River at Omorate will transport you to another world; as will the important markets in Jinka, Dimeka and Key Afar. If you’re lucky, a Jumping of the Bulls ceremony will be happening during your visit. Slip east for a look at the ‘House of Salt’ and a ‘singing well’ at El Sod before turning north for a night lakeside in modern and orderly Awasa. Then it’s time for some remote trekking amid Ethiopian wolves and superb scenery in Bale Mountains National Park and around Dodola. See the hot springs and flamingo flocks in Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park before unwinding in a lakeside resort and doing a bit or birdwatching at Lake Langano. Stop at Lake Ziway to see hippos, birdlife and island monasteries. You could spend another night on a lake at Debre Zeyit before returning to the chaos of capital Addis Ababa. 23 FRANCES LINZEE GORDON/GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ITINERARIES

» (above) Agelgil (goat-skin lunch MARTIN HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES © boxes) for sale, Bahir Dar (p68) » (left) Marabou storks, Lake Ziway (p135)

Debre Damo Yeha •#•# RED Aksum •# Rock-Hewn SEA •# Churches of Tigray É ERITREA Simien É Mekele

•# É Mountains É #÷ •# Danakil É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Gonder •#

SUDAN Lake Tana Lalibela •# É Bahir Dar •#

DJIBOUTI É

ITINERARIES É SOUTH SUDAN Nekemte É Ambo •# •# #_ Addis Ababa

Gambela •# R Mt Wenchi

Jimma

É É •# Bebeka Coffee Plantation •# Historical Circuit •# Kibish The Wild West

Two Weeks 12 Days Historical Circuit The Wild West

The historical sights along this loop A journey out into the lush, green north of Addis Ababa are monumen- west is one for trail blazers. Leav- tal in both scale and detail. ing Addis it’s a short and easy drive After a few days revelling in the to Mt Wenchi where a crater lake chaos of Addis Ababa, head north to palm- and a beautiful day walk awaits. Next head fringed Bahir Dar for a day. Spend the next past fields of golden tef (an indigenous day at Lake Tana exploring some of the grass cultivated as a cereal) and sunshine- lake’s centuries-old island monasteries. Next bright meskel flowers to the bustling town wander the extensive ruins of crenulated of Jimma where you can soak up some 17th-century castles in Gonder. Looming culture in the museums. A long day’s driv- 100km north, the Simien Mountains are ing will take you deep into Surma country one of Ethiopia’s most stunning national and the village of Kibish. After a few days parks – spend a couple of days trekking in of swapping stories with Surmi warriors, this sensational massif and spotting wildlife. head up to the Bebeka Coffee Plantation Push on to Aksum where pre-Christian where you’ll probably be happy to just relax tombs underlie splendid 1800-year-old ste- and watch tropical birds in the guesthouse lae (obelisks). After two days, venture to the gardens. Drive along misty mountain ridges, 3000-year-old ruins of Ethiopia’s first capital, and through dense forests and descend into Yeha, and to the cliff-top monastery of De- the steamy lowlands to fascinating Gam- bre Damo. Then head south and search out bela, home of the Nuer and Anuak peoples Tigray’s precarious and stunning rock-hewn as well as herds of antelopes. From Gambela churches. A short hop to the south is Me- you have two options – complete the loop by kele, which is the obvious launching pad for heading back to Addis via the low-key towns the desolate expanses of the Danakil. Back of Nekemte and Ambo, which makes for a in Mekele, drive south to Lalibela. Its 11 as- scenic ride blessed with superb mountain tounding rock-hewn churches and myriad vistas, or flying back to Addis from Gambela. tunnels have poignantly frozen 12th- and 13th-century Ethiopia in stone. After three or so days here, it’s back to Addis Ababa. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’