Energy Release Through Internal Wave Breaking

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Energy Release Through Internal Wave Breaking SPECIAL ISSUE On INTernAL WAveS Energy Release Through Internal Wave Breaking BY HANS VAN HAren AND LOUIS GOSTIAUX ABSTRACT. The sun inputs huge amounts of heat to the ocean, heat that would stay ABOVE | A large backward-breaking internal wave near the ocean’s surface if it were not mechanically mixed into the deep. Warm water is depicted in this time-depth image whose axes are 14 minutes horizontally and 50 m vertically. is less dense than cold water, so that heated surface waters “float” on top of the cold This wave was observed using 101 high-sampling- deep waters. Only active mechanical turbulent mixing can pump the heat downward. rate temperature sensors between 0.5 and 50 m above the bottom at 550 m depth near the top of Such mixing requires remarkably little energy, about one-thousandth of the heat Great Meteor Seamount, North Atlantic Ocean. stored, but it is crucial for ocean life and for nutrient and sediment transport. Several Temperature ranges from 12.3°C (blue) to 14.1°C mechanisms for ocean mixing have been studied in the past. The dominant mixing (red); contour intervals are every 0.1°C (black). mechanism seems to be breaking of internal waves above underwater topography. Here, we quantify the details of how internal waves transition to strong turbulent mixing by using high-sampling-rate temperature sensors. The sensors were moored above the sloping bottom of a large guyot (flat-topped submarine volcano) in the Canary Basin, North Atlantic Ocean. Over a tidal period, most mixing occurs in two periods of less than half an hour each. This “boundary mixing” dominates sediment resuspension and is 100 times more turbulent than open ocean mixing. Extrapolating, the mixing may be sufficiently effective to maintain the ocean’s density stratification. 124 Oceanography | Vol. 25, No. 2 INTRODUCTION they reach strong turbulence states above density contrast between different water Internal waves are ubiquitous around underwater topography (Thorpe, 1987a). layers generates weaker restoring forces. the globe in estuaries, seas, and oceans, The turbulence is visible as closed loops These internal waves have periods vary- causing their interiors to be in constant of a wide range of sizes. These loops can ing from one day, depending on Earth’s motion. They exist because these waters transport material and affect stratifica- rotation, down to several minutes, all have stable density stratification from tion. Quantification of such mixing pro- depending on stratification. surface to bottom. Ocean water density cesses thus requires detailed observations Low-frequency, long-period near- is mainly determined by temperature using a high sampling rate (once per sec- inertial internal wave motions have and salinity variations (Box 1). Vertical ond) and precise instrumentation. relatively small vertical wave lengths of density differences (“stratification”) create There are two dominant internal wave 10–100 m in the open ocean (1–10 m in a restoring force for wave motions in sources near the lowest internal wave fre- shallow seas). These small length scales the interior (“internal waves”). High- quency: “inertial” motions, which result cause the inertial currents to vary rapidly resolution temperature measurements from an adjustment to large-scale dis- in the vertical, creating large vertical cur- show the omnipresence of internal waves turbances such as fronts or atmospheric rent differences (termed shear or internal near beaches and at great depths, with storms in combination with Earth’s rota- friction). The resulting shear-induced similar features persisting at a wide vari- tion, and internal tides, which result from turbulent mixing occurs infrequently ety of scales, thus resembling a fractal the interaction of surface or “barotropic” in the open ocean, creating about one- world (Figure 1; note the 100–1,000 times tidal motions with topography. Whereas quarter to one-third (Gregg, 1989) of the different depth-time ranges and the fac- inertial motions can be observed domi- global, ocean-wide vertical turbulent dif- tor of 1,000 smaller temperature range in nantly near the ocean’s surface or in fusivity (a measure for vertical exchange –4 2 –1 panel d). Such features include overturn- closed seas like the Mediterranean with units of Kz = 10 m s ; Munk, ing of occasionally large 50 m high fronts (Figure 1d), internal tides are dominant 1966) needed to maintain deep-ocean (image on opposite page) followed by a in the open ocean (Figure 1a). Compared (heat) stratification. Hence, another trail of turbulent high-frequency internal to surface waves that are generated energy sink should exist, and much waves. The ocean interior’s 10–100 m through the much larger density dif- additional energy is lost near under- high weakly turbulent internal waves can ference between air and water, internal water topography such as seamounts thus mix and transport material when waves travel slowly because the lower and continental slopes. BOX 1 | TEMPERATURE AS A TRACER FOR DENSITY VARIATIONS The dynamics of vertically varying ocean motions depend on are the easiest to observe. Salinity is measured indirectly, using a variations in density. Though ocean density variations cannot be combination of temperature and conductivity sensors. Temperature measured directly, density is mainly (more than 99.99%) determined observations alone can be used at a particular known pressure by variations in temperature, salinity, and pressure. A vertically (depth) as a replacement (proxy) for density variations, provided stable water column is composed of warm, fresh water over cold, the density-temperature relationship is well known (tight). This salty water. Warmer water is less dense than colder water when relationship can be established by repeatedly lowering a shipborne salinity is 23 or more parts per thousand (ppt). An average ocean conductivity-temperature-pressure package at the site of interest. value is 35 ppt. Freshwater is less dense than salty water. Roughly 4°C If the vertical density variations are very small, about in temperature and 1 ppt in salinity each contribute to ±1 kg m–3 in 0.001 kg m–3 per 100 m, high-precision sensors can observe tem- density variations. Although the static pressure increases by 1 bar perature to increase with pressure (depth) while density remains (atmosphere) every 10 m vertically in the ocean, it is the small (1%) stable. The limit of this increase is the adiabatic lapse rate of about compressibility of water that affects density variations. 1.7 × 10–4 °C m–1, which is due to the compressibility of water. It can In terms of observational techniques, temperature and pressure be easily corrected for when pressure (depth) is known. Oceanography | June 2012 125 Because the interaction of horizontal However, it is unclear how energy trans- deforms the internal waves and makes motion with sloping underwater topog- fers from the internal wave source to them overturn. Another possible expla- raphy generates internal tides (part of its turbulence loss, but it is probably via nation is that high-frequency internal the low-frequency internal waves), it is small-scale internal waves. waves deform to linear or nonlinear conjectured that most mixing also occurs At the high-frequency end of the internal tides and then disintegrate into along the ocean’s sloping boundaries internal wave spectrum, short-period high-frequency solitary waves (Gerkema, rather than in its interior (Munk, 1966; waves near buoyancy frequency N are 1996; Farmer et al., 2011). Despite their Armi, 1978; Thorpe, 1987b; Garrett, the natural motions following stratifi- name, such high-frequency nonlinear 1990, 1991). The concentration of inter- cation disturbance (Groen, 1948). N 2 waves generally do not occur alone, but nal tidal energy may cause enhanced is proportional to the vertical density instead commonly occur in groups of wave breaking and mixing. Internal stratification and the acceleration of four to ten waves (Helfrich and Melville, waves constitute a partial (20%) sink gravity. These waves are close to turbu- 2006). When such solitary wave groups, for tidal energy, or about 0.6 TW glob- lence in frequency (D’Asaro and Lien, carried by the internal tidal wave, col- ally (Munk and Wunsch, 1998). If the 2000). One possible explanation for how lide with underwater topography, they boundary mixing described is efficient high-frequency internal waves transi- transform (Orr and Mignerey, 2003), NIOZ High Sampling Rate Thermistors enough, it should account for mean tion to turbulence is through interaction and the leading one sharpens into an energy loss (dissipation) of 1.5 mW m–2. with near-inertial or tidal shear, which upslope frontal bore (Vlasenko and Hutter, 2002; Klymak and Moum, 2003). a T (°C) b T (°C) Such a bore dominates sediment resus- −1400 10,000 s 6.7 100 s −0.8 18.2 6.6 pension (Hosegood et al., 2004; Bonnin 18.1 −1420 6.5 −1.0 et al., 2006), which resembles an atmo- 6.4 18.0 −1440 6.3 −1.2 ) ) 17.9 spheric dust storm. 6.2 z (m −1460 z (m −1.4 6.1 17.8 Here, we present detailed observa- −1480 6.0 −1.6 17.7 5.9 tions demonstrating that internal wave −1500 5.8 −1.8 17.6 5.7 motions above sloping topography are −2.0 17.5 −1520 212.8 213.0 213.2 213.4 213.6 180.334 180.335 180.336 t (yearday) t (yearday) indeed quite different from those in the ocean’s interior. High-resolution moored c T (°C) d ∆T (0.001°C) −500 1,000 s 14.0 −3980 100,000 s temperature sensors (Box 2) offer the −505 −3990 0.3 13.8 −510 −4000 0.2 best way to study the process of internal 13.6 −515 −4010 13.4 0.1 wave-turbulence dynamics.
Recommended publications
  • Observation of Rip Currents by Synthetic Aperture Radar
    OBSERVATION OF RIP CURRENTS BY SYNTHETIC APERTURE RADAR José C.B. da Silva (1) , Francisco Sancho (2) and Luis Quaresma (3) (1) Institute of Oceanography & Dept. of Physics, University of Lisbon, 1749-016 Lisbon, Portugal (2) Laboratorio Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Av. do Brasil, 101 , 1700-066, Lisbon, Portugal (3) Instituto Hidrográfico, Rua das Trinas, 49, 1249-093 Lisboa , Portugal ABSTRACT Rip currents are near-shore cellular circulations that can be described as narrow, jet-like and seaward directed flows. These flows originate close to the shoreline and may be a result of alongshore variations in the surface wave field. The onshore mass transport produced by surface waves leads to a slight increase of the mean water surface level (set-up) toward the shoreline. When this set-up is spatially non-uniform alongshore (due, for example, to non-uniform wave breaking field), a pressure gradient is produced and rip currents are formed by converging alongshore flows with offshore flows concentrated in regions of low set-up and onshore flows in between. Observation of rip currents is important in coastal engineering studies because they can cause a seaward transport of beach sand and thus change beach morphology. Since rip currents are an efficient mechanism for exchange of near-shore and offshore water, they are important for across shore mixing of heat, nutrients, pollutants and biological species. So far however, studies of rip currents have mainly relied on numerical modelling and video camera observations. We show an ENVISAT ASAR observation in Precision Image mode of bright near-shore cell-like signatures on a dark background that are interpreted as surface signatures of rip currents.
    [Show full text]
  • Part III-2 Longshore Sediment Transport
    Chapter 2 EM 1110-2-1100 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT (Part III) 30 April 2002 Table of Contents Page III-2-1. Introduction ............................................................ III-2-1 a. Overview ............................................................. III-2-1 b. Scope of chapter ....................................................... III-2-1 III-2-2. Longshore Sediment Transport Processes ............................... III-2-1 a. Definitions ............................................................ III-2-1 b. Modes of sediment transport .............................................. III-2-3 c. Field identification of longshore sediment transport ........................... III-2-3 (1) Experimental measurement ............................................ III-2-3 (2) Qualitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude and direction ......................................................... III-2-5 (3) Quantitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude ..................... III-2-6 (4) Longshore sediment transport estimations in the United States ................. III-2-7 III-2-3. Predicting Potential Longshore Sediment Transport ...................... III-2-7 a. Energy flux method .................................................... III-2-10 (1) Historical background ............................................... III-2-10 (2) Description ........................................................ III-2-10 (3) Variation of K with median grain size................................... III-2-13 (4) Variation of K with
    [Show full text]
  • OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen
    11-14 May Bremen Germany Final Program OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen Balancing technology with future needs May 11th – 14th 2009 in Bremen, Germany Contents Welcome from the General Chair 2 Welcome 3 Useful Adresses & Phone Numbers 4 Conference Information 6 Social Events 9 Tourism Information 10 Plenary Session 12 Tutorials 15 Technical Program 24 Student Poster Program 54 Exhibitor Booth List 57 Exhibitor Profiles 63 Exhibit Floor Plan 94 Congress Center Bremen 96 OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen 1 Welcome from the General Chair WELCOME FROM THE GENERAL CHAIR In the Earth system the ocean plays an important role through its intensive interactions with the atmosphere, cryo- sphere, lithosphere, and biosphere. Energy and material are continually exchanged at the interfaces between water and air, ice, rocks, and sediments. In addition to the physical and chemical processes, biological processes play a significant role. Vast areas of the ocean remain unexplored. Investigation of the surface ocean is carried out by satellites. All other observations and measurements have to be carried out in-situ using research vessels and spe- cial instruments. Ocean observation requires the use of special technologies such as remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs), towed camera systems etc. Seismic methods provide the foundation for mapping the bottom topography and sedimentary structures. We cordially welcome you to the international OCEANS ’09 conference and exhibition, to the world’s leading conference and exhibition in ocean science, engineering, technology and management. OCEANS conferences have become one of the largest professional meetings and expositions devoted to ocean sciences, technology, policy, engineering and education.
    [Show full text]
  • Rip Currents and Alongshore Flows in Single Channels Dredged in the Surf
    PUBLICATIONS Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans RESEARCH ARTICLE Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged 10.1002/2016JC012222 in the surf zone Key Points: Melissa Moulton1,2 , Steve Elgar2 , Britt Raubenheimer2 , John C. Warner3 , and Rip currents, feeder currents, and Nirnimesh Kumar4 meandering alongshore currents were observed in single channels 1 2 dredged in the surf zone Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA, Department of Applied Ocean Physics 3 The model COAWST reproduces the and Engineering, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, United States Geological observed circulation patterns, and is Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, 4Department of Civil and Environmental used to investigate dynamics for a Engineering, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA wider range of conditions A parameter based on breaking-wave-driven setup patterns and alongshore currents predicts Abstract To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average offshore-directed flow speeds 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, Correspondence to: circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed M. Moulton, incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel [email protected] geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms Citation: Moulton, M., S.
    [Show full text]
  • 1D Laboratory Study on Wave-Induced Setup Over A
    1 LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes 2 over Fringing Reefs 3 4 Yu Yao1, 4, Tiancheng He1, Zhengzhi Deng2*, Long Chen1, 3, Huiqun Guo1 5 6 1 School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, 7 Changsha, Hunan 410114, China. 8 2 Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan, Zhejiang 316021, China. 9 3 Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of 10 Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China. 11 4Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence of Ministry of Education, 12 Nanjing, Jiangsu 210098, China 13 14 15 16 * Corresponding author: Zhengzhi Deng 17 E-mail: [email protected] 18 Tel: +86 15068188376 19 1 20 ABSTRACT 21 Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to 22 inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave 23 transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management 24 of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in 25 modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional 26 (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool 27 OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase 28 incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for 29 turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. 30 The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with 31 various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine 32 the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, 33 reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup.
    [Show full text]
  • A Liminal Experience Under the Surface of the Ocean
    UNIVERSIDADE DE LISBOA FACULDADE DE BELAS-ARTES APNEA A liminal experience under the surface of the ocean Janna Nadjejda Ribow Guichet Dissertação Mestrado em Arte Multimedia Especialização em Fotografia Dissertação orientada pela Professora Doutora Maria João Pestana Noronha Gamito 2021 DECLARAÇÃO DE AUTORIA Eu Janna Nadjejda Ribow Guichet, declaro que a presente dissertação de mestrado intitulada “Apnéia”, é o resultado da minha investigação pessoal e independente. O conteúdo é original e todas as fontes consultadas estão devidamente mencionadas na bibliografia ou outras listagens de fontes documentais, tal como todas as citações diretas ou indiretas têm devida indicação ao longo do trabalho segundo as normas académicas. O Candidato [assinatura] Lisboa, 27.10.19 RESUMO O trabalho é sobre uma imersão no oceano e em nós mesmos. A questão é: como podemos obter um efeito positivo por meio do oceano? O primeiro capítulo analisará os pensamentos antigos e contemporâneos do sublime; A figura do vórtice foi usada nas artes e na literatura para criar sensações sublimes, Immanuel Kant e Edmund Burke afirmaram que o sublime pode trazer um efeito positivo que será discutido. Uma sensação sublime diferente é a Liminalidade, que encontrei durante a Apnéia. Muitos artistas descrevem seu poder transformador, que será comparado à pesquisa médica científica. Mas a mensagem fundamental permanece: “A experiência sublime é fundamentalmente transformadora, sobre a relação entre desordem e ordem, e a ruptura das coordenadas estáveis de tempo e espaço. Algo se precipita e somos profundamente alterados.” (Morley, 2010, p.12) O segundo capítulo define Ambientes Imersivos em Artes e Apnéia. Após a experiência liminar comecei a treinar o desporto e aprendi a controlar minha mente e corpo de forma imersiva, o que trouxe à tona os conceitos: ponto do silêncio (preparação), jogo mental (submersão) e foco (volta a superfície).
    [Show full text]
  • Wave-Breaking Turbulence in the Ocean Surface Layer
    JUNE 2016 T H O M S O N E T A L . 1857 Wave-Breaking Turbulence in the Ocean Surface Layer JIM THOMSON,MICHAEL S. SCHWENDEMAN, AND SETH F. ZIPPEL Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington SAEED MOGHIMI Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon JOHANNES GEMMRICH University of Victoria, Victoria, British Columbia, Canada W. ERICK ROGERS Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, Louisiana (Manuscript received 12 July 2015, in final form 17 March 2016) ABSTRACT Observations of winds, waves, and turbulence at the ocean surface are compared with several analytic formulations and a numerical model for the input of turbulent kinetic energy by wave breaking and the subsequent dissipation. The observations are generally consistent with all of the formulations, although some differences are notable at winds greater than 15 m s21. The depth dependence of the turbulent dissipation rate beneath the waves is fit to a decay scale, which is sensitive to the choice of vertical reference frame. In the surface-following reference frame, the strongest turbulence is isolated within a shallow region of depths much less than one significant wave height. In a fixed reference frame, the strong turbulence penetrates to depths that are at least half of the significant wave height. This occurs because the turbulence of individual breakers persists longer than the dominant period of the waves and thus the strong surface turbulence is carried from crest to trough with the wave orbital motion. 1. Introduction Gemmrich and Farmer 2004; Gemmrich 2010). The dynamic balance assumed is that the wave energy lost Wave breaking at the ocean surface limits wave during breaking S becomes a flux of turbulent ki- growth (Melville 1994), enhances gas exchange (Zappa brk netic energy F into the ocean surface layer that is dis- et al.
    [Show full text]
  • Protecting Surf Breaks and Surfing Areas in California
    Protecting Surf Breaks and Surfing Areas in California by Michael L. Blum Date: Approved: Dr. Michael K. Orbach, Adviser Masters project submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master of Environmental Management degree in the Nicholas School of the Environment of Duke University May 2015 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................... vi LIST OF FIGURES ...................................................................................................................... vii LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................ vii LIST OF ACRONYMS ............................................................................................................... viii LIST OF DEFINITIONS ................................................................................................................ x EXECUTIVE SUMMARY ......................................................................................................... xiii 1. INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................................... 1 2. STUDY APPROACH: A TOTAL ECOLOGY OF SURFING ................................................. 5 2.1 The Biophysical Ecology ...................................................................................................... 5 2.2 The Human Ecology ............................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Questions Breaking Waves
    Introduction to Oceanography Midterm 2: November 20 (Monday) Review session: Friday, Nov. 17 (TODAY!) 4:00-5:00pm in Franz 1260. Extra credit video screening: Monday, Nov. 20, 4:00-5:00pm in Royce 190. Coast Guard vessel training in breaking waves. Video by U.S. Coast Guard Air Lecture 20: Breaking Waves, Tsunami, Tides Station Cape Cod. Public Domain https://www.facebook.com/USCo Breaking wave and surfer at Mavericks, near Half Moon Bay, California. Photo by Shalom Jacobovitz, astGuardNortheast/videos/10153 Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic, 597379234398/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2010_mavericks_competition_edit1.jpg The Anatomy of a Wave The Dynamics of a Wave Wave Period – time between crests Wave Frequency – number of crests per second Wave Speed – rate crests move (meters/second) Animation courtesy Dr. Dan Russell, Kettering University, http://paws.kettering.edu/~d russell/Demos/wave-x- t/wave-x-t.html Period, frequency, speed and wavelength are related! Remember These! Period = 1/frequency Adapted from figure by Kraaiennest, Wikimedia Commons, Creative Commons A S-A 3.0, http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sine_wave_amplitude.svg Speed = wavelength / period = wavelength x frequency Questions Breaking Waves NASA/JPL, Public Domain, http://www.meted.ucar.edu/EUME TSAT/jason/media/graphics/tp_wi nd_wave_janjun1995.jpg Teahupoo, Tahiti, Photo by Duncan Rawlinson, Creative Commons A 2.0 Generic, http://thelastminuteblog.com/photos/album/72157603098986701/photo/1973927918/teahupoo-surfing-november- 2-2007- 1 Waves can’t transport energy as efficiently in shallow water When Do Waves Break? Waves start to break when: – The angle between front & backside of wave < 120 degrees – This occurs when Height > 1/7 Wavelength – Typically when Height ~3/4 water Depth aokomoriuta, Wikimedia Commons, Creative Commons A S-A 3.0, R.
    [Show full text]
  • Safety Check List Easthamptonoceanrescue.Org Ubs
    Safety Check List • Listen to surf forecast • Watch You Tube video of rip currents in action • Check for warning signs and flags • Scan water for visible rips & wave conditions from highest vintage point • Swim near lifeguard if available ubs.com eas thamptonoceanrescue.org E • L • I • C • C • A Eastern Long Island Coastal Conservation Alliance, Ltd. UNDERSTANDING WAVES AND CURRENTS Your Life May Depend Upon It Knowledge of waves and currents can help beachgoers be safer at the beach. Big breaking waves that tower over five feet high are too dangerous for most bathers and swimmers, but even relatively small waves (e.g., 2-3 feet) that seem innocuous can generate dangerous rip currents. The Surf Safety Check List helps you read the waves and currents and therefore gauge the situation relative to your own swim - ming ability. Skilled surfers seek out large plunging breakers for the most spectacular rides, and often utilize strong offshore-flowing currents (e.g., rip currents) to propel themselves seaward so they can catch the next wave. Surfers have the advantage of having a flotation device (e.g., surfboard) so that they are much better prepared than swimmers to deal with ocean forces, but even these thrill seekers must understand and respect the power of the sea. A typical summer day at Ditch Plains Beach where rip currents may be present but are not always apparent. SURF SAFETY CHECK LIST • Listen to the surf forecast. • Watch videos of rip currents in action on YouTube (www.ripcurrents.com) before heading to the beach. • Know your location in the event of an emergency; some beach accesses are numbered, while others are named by the road ending or landmarks.
    [Show full text]
  • 2. Coastal Processes
    CHAPTER 2 2. Coastal processes Coastal landscapes result from by weakening the rock surface and driving nearshore sediment the interaction between coastal to facilitate further sediment transport processes. Wind and tides processes and sediment movement. movement. Biological, biophysical are also significant contributors, Hydrodynamic (waves, tides and biochemical processes are and are indeed dominant in coastal and currents) and aerodynamic important in coral reef, salt marsh dune and estuarine environments, (wind) processes are important. and mangrove environments. respectively, but the action of Weathering contributes significantly waves is dominant in most settings. to sediment transport along rocky Waves Information Box 2.1 explains the coasts, either directly through Ocean waves are the principal technical terms associated with solution of minerals, or indirectly agents for shaping the coast regular (or sinusoidal) waves. INFORMATION BOX 2.1 TECHNICAL TERMS ASSOCIATED WITH WAVES Important characteristics of regular, Natural waves are, however, wave height (Hs), which is or sinusoidal, waves (Figure 2.1). highly irregular (not sinusoidal), defined as the average of the • wave height (H) – the difference and a range of wave heights highest one-third of the waves. in elevation between the wave and periods are usually present The significant wave height crest and the wave trough (Figure 2.2), making it difficult to off the coast of south-west • wave length (L) – the distance describe the wave conditions in England, for example, is, on between successive crests quantitative terms. One way of average, 1.5m, despite the area (or troughs) measuring variable height experiencing 10m-high waves • wave period (T) – the time from is to calculate the significant during extreme storms.
    [Show full text]
  • Observations of a Rip Current System
    Calhoun: The NPS Institutional Archive Faculty and Researcher Publications Faculty and Researcher Publications 2005 RIPEX: Observations of a rip current system MacMahan, Jamie H. þÿMarine Geology, Vol. 218, (2005), pp. 113 134 http://hdl.handle.net/10945/45737 Marine Geology 218 (2005) 113–134 www.elsevier.com/locate/margeo RIPEX: Observations of a rip current system Jamie H. MacMahana,T, Ed B. Thorntona, Tim P. Stantona, Ad J.H.M. Reniersb aNaval Postgraduate School, Oceanography Department, Monterey, CA 93943, USA bCivil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands Received 10 June 2004; received in revised form 23 February 2005; accepted 14 March 2005 Abstract Rip current kinematics and beach morphodynamics were measured for 44 days at Sand City, Monterey Bay, CA using 15 instruments composed of co-located velocity and pressure sensors, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and kinematic GPS surveys. The morphology consisted of a low-tide terrace with incised quasi-periodic rip channels, representative of transverse bars. Offshore (17 m depth) significant wave height and peak period ranged 0.20–3.0 m and 5–20 s. The mean wave direction was consistently near 08 resulting in rip channel morphology, which evolved in response to the changing wave characteristics. An inverse relationship between sediment accreting on the transverse bar and eroding in the rip channel was found. The spatial distribution of sediment is reflected in the background rip current flow field. The mean velocity magnitudes within the rip channel (transverse bars) increased offshore (onshore) with decreasing tidal elevations and increased with increasing sea-swell energy. Eulerian averaged flows were predominantly shoreward on the transverse bars and seaward within the rip channel throughout the experiment, resulting in a persistent cellular circulation, except during low wave energy.
    [Show full text]