ANTA RCTIC PENINSULA WHA LES A ND LA NDSCA PES

C HEESEMANS’ E C OLOGY S AFARIS E XPEDITION L OG 2016 EXPEDITION LOG CHEESEMANS’ ECOLOGY SAFARIS Whales and Landscapes 10 March to 25 March 2016

Designed by Teresa Floberg Edited by Debbie ompson Written by Bernardo Alps, Diane Alps , Cindy Atkins, Kalasara DelViscovo, Cathy Hachigian, Felicity Hughes, Stephanie Newkirk, Cristina Robinson, and April Ryan i Cover Photo Back Cover Photo Title Page Photo This Page Photo Next Page Photo Last Page Photo COPYRIGHT NOTICE Whale Diving Landscape of Ice Gentoo Penguin Formations of Ice Terns Midnight Light Copyright ©2016 Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris By Cindy Atkins By Jodi Frediani By Scott Davis By Stephanie Newkirk By Eddy Thys By Marley Watkins Photographers hold the copyright to their work. TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 2 Orne Islands and Dallmann Bay 20 March 24

The Expedition 4 Wilhelmina Bay and 21 March 26

Ushuaia and Embarkation 10 March 6 Half Moon Island 22 March 28

At Sea to the Peninsula 11 - 13 March 8 At Sea to Ushuaia 23 - 24 March 30

A Summary of Science and More 9 Disembarkation 25 March 32

Danco Island and Wilhelmina Bay 14 March 10 Expedition Sta and Participants 34

Waterboat Point and Neko Harbour 15 March 12 Species List by Date 36

At Sea to the Antarctic Circle 16 March 14 Whales from Many Perspectives 38

Detaille Island 17 March 16 Photo Montage 40

Booth Island and 18 March 18 1 Some photographs and events depict research conducted under the following permits grant- ed to Dr. Ari Friedlaender: NMFS 14809 and ACA 2016-024 and/or permits granted to Dr. Wilhelmina Bay and Cuverville Island 19 March 20 Fredrik Christiansen and Prof. Lars Bejder (Murdoch University), under permits from the Department of the Environment, Australia, the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Happy Whales 22 Conservation Act 1999 (Cth) (EPBC Act) (Cetacean Permit: 2016-0001), Australia, and under an animal ethics permit from Murdoch University (O2810/16), Australia.

1 INTRODUCTI ON

By Ted Cheeseman, Expedition Leader ese gems did not come easily as we saw. I thank you for journeying with us WHALES FOREVER through heavy seas and changed plans, It is whale season at home for me; blocks thanks for having faith that we would from my front door I can predictably nd such unique treasures together. expect to see a blow or three as Hump- Our voyage was, to me, a very special backs surface, gorging on the bounty of experience, a rare opportunity that I feel Monterey Bay, California. But take me honored to have shared with you. I want back to our last glorious day there in to extend a special thanks and dedica- Cierva Cove. And remember with me tion of this voyage log to the eld sta the glory of Petermann Island when de- whose labors at the tiller and on shore Chinstrap Penguin Alisa Schulman-Janiger spite forecasts and odds we found a cor- made it possible for us to explore with ner of protected waters where whales, condence, safety and ambition. icebergs and incomparable late summer evening light made a recipe for the un- forgettable. Ted Cheeseman

Crabeater Seal Eddy Thys

Sunset Phil Clapham Gentoo Penguins Edith Simonson

2 3 Iceberg Rodney Boone THE EXPEDITION

Drawing by Bonnie Gretz

4 THE EXPEDITION

Point Landing 1 Ushuaia

2 Danco Island

3 Wilhelmina Bay

4 Waterboat Point

5 Neko Harbour

6 Petermann Island

7 Yarlour Island

8 Detaille Island

9 Booth Island

10 Cuverville Island

11 Orne Islands

12 Dallmann Bay

13 Cierva Cove

14 Half Moon Island

5 10 March 2016 Ushuaia and Embarkation Day 1

By Cathy Hachigian guide. Located on the island of Tierra del Fuego, the park has dramatic scen- TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL ery, with waterfalls, forests, mountains PARK and glaciers. e landscape in the park We all enjoyed a night of welcomed was carved by glacial erosion that creat- sleep aer our days of ights to Ush- ed bays and beaches against a backdrop uaia, here at the tip of South America. of rugged mountains and valleys. We Excitement lled the air this morning as found the southernmost tree on earth we boarded busses to Tierra del Fuego in the forest here, the Antarctic Beech, National Park. Each of the three bus- Nothofagus . ses was tailored to individual interests: birds with Joe Kaplan, Bernardo Alps, MUSEO DEL FIN DEL MUNDO and resident guide Esteban Daniels; AND USHUAIA Yellow-billed Pintail Christy Nicholas photography with Ron Niebrugge, Bart Our visit to the park ended early enough Heirweg, and a resident guide; natural so we had time to visit the Museo del Fin and indigenous history plus photogra- del Mundo (End of the World Museum) of artifacts from the rst expeditions to Our rst activities over at 4 PM, we had phy with Scott Davis, Juan Manuel Sal- or simply walk around Ushuaia. e this region and a history of the indige- one last (but most important) activity cedo, and Nick Pyenson, and a resident museum holds a remarkable collection nous people who inhabited these coasts.

Tierra del Fuego National Park Carolyn Peterson

6 Day 1 Ushuaia and Embarkation 10 March 2016

for the day: boarding the Ortelius! We swells from the starboard side. e few all jumped on busses in front of the items on the desk in my cabin along Hotel Albatros and headed to the port with the side drawers and the desk chair where we passed through security. were thrown back and forth across the cabin. In fact, aer the second roll the ALL ABOARD! chair tipped over and there it stayed ly- A feeling of excitement overtook us as ing on the oor for two days until the we walked up the gangplank taking our storm passed. As our bunks were posi- rst steps onto the Ortelius. Aer re- tioned across the width of the ship from ceiving our room assignments we were starboard to port, I would slide from the each escorted to our rooms. Aer a cab- head to the foot of the bunk each time in once-over, all passengers met in the it rolled. I love rollercoasters and this observation bar/lecture room to review was quite fun for a while but eventually ship emergency procedures followed by I hunkered down in the bottom and an- an evacuation drill where we put on our chored myself for the rest of the night. Ship Orientation Phil Clapham warm clothes and life preservers. Fol- lowing instructions, we headed to our assigned muster station for roll call and out the starboard or port doors to take a glimpse inside one of the two lifeboats.

BEAGLE CHANNEL AND INTO THE DRAKE Aer a tasty dinner of curried vegetable stew and other oerings, we were soon sailing out the Beagle Channel to start our crossing of the Drake Passage. e channel was named aer the ship HMS Beagle during its rst hydrographic survey of the southern coasts of South America that lasted from 1826 to 1830. A storm was with us making the Drake crossing a challenge. e Ortelius was more rolling than pitching as it took The Beagle Channel Peter Fisher

7 11-13 March 2016 At Sea to the Peninsula Days 2-4

By Cathy Hachigian presentations by the expedition sta. uled landing at Half Moon Island. So DAY 2 AT NOON onward we plowed. Location Drake Passage DRAKE PASSAGE It would be our third morning before we were allowed outside to wander the Latitude 56˚33’ S e crossing of the Drake Passage snow covered decks and get a real taste Longitude 69˚50’ W turned into a nearly three-day adven- of the chill and awesome fresh air over ture during which we were not allowed Total Sailed 172 miles the . outside on the ship’s deck for safety rea- Wind 50 knots W sons. Instead we spent our time inside ANTARCTICA! Air Temperature 8.0°C making new friends or renewing old Weather Overcast friendships, observing from the ship’s On March 13 we found ourselves sailing bridge, or in the lecture hall learning in the Branseld Strait, a body of water about life in Antarctica. about 60 mi. wide and 300 mi. long in a general north-east to south-west di- From the bridge we intently watched Fin rection between the South Shetland Is- DAY 3 AT NOON Whales and various albatrosses with 12- lands and the Antarctic Peninsula. We Location Drake Passage foot wingspans gliding over waves larg- couldn’t believe we nally made it! Un- Latitude 58˚43’ S er than we have ever seen before. In the fortunately, the weather didn’t improve Longitude 60˚55’ W lecture hall we were treated to expert enough for us to make our rst sched- Gray-headed Albatross Heike Dietzmann Total Sailed 382 miles Wind 30 knots SW Air Temperature 4.7°C Weather Overcast

DAY 4 AT NOON Location Branseld Strait Latitude 62˚39’ S Longitude 59˚99’ W Total Sailed 636 miles Wind 35 knots ESE Air Temperature -1.0°C Weather Overcast At Sea to Danco Island Heike Dietzmann

8 A Summary of Science and More

By Cristina Robinson ging technology and its use in studying mating systems, feeding behavior, and mals, played various vocalizations, and During our time on the Ortelius, we foraging patterns of dierent species. some of their extraordinary physiolog- mysticeti song distributions. ical capabilities for diving. were fortunate to attend lectures given Ron Niebrugge and Hugh Rose gave Dr. Ari Friedlaender talked about mili- by our experienced sta. Days when great technique tips for photography. Joe Kaplan informed us of Antarctic tary sonar and the behavioral response weather permitted, we landed on shore wildlife, from the two owering plants study happening in southern Califor- Joe Kaplan enhanced our understand- and/or cruised in Zodiacs. While sailing to the dierent penguin species. nia, explaining the dierent aspects of ing of the many seabirds of the South- at sea or when weather turned against the research. us, lectures enriched our Antarctic ex- ern Ocean and their diagnostic traits to Diane Alps gave a history of the Ameri- periences. ey started our rst day on keep in mind when birding. can Cetacean Society and its work. Ted Cheeseman performed a presenta- tion on Antarctic climate change, illus- the ship, discussing ship orientation and Dr. Renee Albertson discussed the ge- Dr. Lars Bejder explained the suck- trating the chemical reactions occur- safety, and continued until our return netics she does on the Humpbacks we ling behavior in calves of Humpbacks ring with wonderful graphics. through the Drake Passage. would see, in regards to their feeding and some anthropogenic activities that By the end of the trip, I think every- aggregations and breeding stocks. could alter their behavior. Dr. Nick Pyenson explained reasons why whales have evolved to be such one learned a great deal about animals Bernardo Alps and Ted Cheeseman Dr. Nick Pyenson educated us on ma- large animals and how scientists answer living in the Antarctic and how life in explained the citizen science achieved rine mammal evolution by looking at these types of questions. such unforgiving surroundings is sus- through photo ID and ‘Happy Whale’, the fossil record of their ancestors. tained. ese lectures were packed with and how everyone could help out. Bernardo Alps presented the Cabrillo Dr. Ari Friedlaender entertained us information about photography, his- Marine Aquarium Baja adventure and Dr. Nick Pyenson spoke about a marine with sh stories and footage of dierent tory, climate change, fauna, and ora. spoke of the wildlife present and the mammal graveyard he dug up in Chile whale species being tagged and studied We were lucky to have many marine Gray Whales that could be hugged, and and the dierent data collected from for foraging behavior. mammal scientists (AKA “the Whale even licked! that project. Science Team”) on board who presented Dr. Yulia Ivashchenko explained her re- Dr. Phil Clapham discussed the history relevant research. I’m thankful to have Dr. Fredrik Christiansen and Dr. Lars search into the truth behind the illegal of marine mammal science and revela- learned so much about such an incred- Bejder talked about their Unmanned whaling of the Soviets and Japanese. tions that have occurred in the eld. ible place, while simultaneously experi- Aerial Vehicle (UAV) use to study Dr. Phil Clapham described the history encing the wildlife and beauty of it all. Humpback Whale body condition and Bart Heirweg did a live tutorial on Ado- of whaling and the current issues. Dr. Phil Clapham gave us a brief histo- the acoustic impacts on whales. be Lightroom, allowing passengers to Dr. Lesley orne spoke of albatrosses, enhance their pictures immediately af- ry of whales, including their behaviors, Dr. Lars Bejder discussed the many im- explaining their behavior, morphology, ter taking them. populations, and threats. pacts that whale watching and tourism and their life history in such a harsh en- has on cetaceans resulting in lower calf Dr. Renee Albertson spoke about the Ron Niebrugge taught us about “ani- vironment. malscapes” and the dierent techniques success in some areas. animal species of Antarctica that either Dr. Renee Albertson discussed social benet or are at risk with more climate used to capture special moments. Dr. Lesley orne lectured on pinni- structures of dierent marine mam- change. Dr. Ari Friedlaender explained his tag- peds: the taxonomy of the species, their

9 14 March 2016 Danco Island and Wilhelmina Bay Day 5

By Stephanie Newkirk Antarctic continent for the rst time. DANCO ISLAND got too close. Another seal caused some excitement–a ! It was spot- Last evening gave us signs of great things Danco Island is home to a Gentoo Pen- LAND HO! ted pursuing a penguin breakfast (or at to come on this new day–our rst ery guin colony that is spread along the Finally calm waters! But what is that I least playing with his possible penguin sunset on the horizon and Humpback shoreline and up the snowy and rocky hear? A 6:30 AM wake-up call? Out of breakfast). At rst it was mistaken for a Whales spouting all around us. Full of surface of the island’s short 500 . sum- bed and o to an early breakfast. Af- Leopard Seal since they regularly hunt pleasant memories, we boarded the Zo- mit. ey also eortlessly swam along ter three days of ship travel in rough penguins. But apparently in this bay, diacs and headed ashore for our rst wet the shore and through the oating ice, waters, seasickness, cabin fever, and a one or more Weddell Seals stray from landing! But no problem, we had lots of impressing us with their porpoising cancelled landing at Half Moon Island, their regular diet of sh and experiment help from the expedition sta. Gentoo skills. ey are not always graceful on everyone was ready to load the waiting with penguins. Penguins greeted us on shore, playing land, especially the young, we watched Zodiacs to visit Danco Island in the Er- perfect hosts to our rst landing, and them comically stumbling among the Several of our adventurers braved the rera Channel. British Base Station O oc- the sta waited with our brieng. With rocks. A few of the penguins even pro- icy north slope for a hike to the island’s cupied Danco Island from 1956 to 1959. all the excitement, the sta found it dif- vided entertainment by chasing each summit. I, among others, was content to Named aer Belgian geologist, Emile cult to get our full attention, but they other, weaving in and out of the colo- explore the rocky shoreline and enjoy Danco, the British used this as a base continued to provide gentle reminders ny–scenes of the young and the restless. the Gentoo Penguins and other wild- for topographical surveys and geologi- until we were all instructed. Soon we set ose not giving chase were content to life. Other birds spotted on the island cal studies. On this particular day it was out to explore. take dips o the beach, nap, and other- included Kelp Gull, Snowy Sheathbill, the place were I would set foot on the wise pose for cameras. Several penguins even came close to investigate us, the “strange visitors.” We felt good that our presence did not seem to disturb the colony. I enjoyed one particular pen- guin as it followed a “pink jacket” across the rocks. Aer getting the attention of the pursued visitor, the penguin contin- uously chatted, telling its story to who- ever would listen. If only I could under- stand Gentoo. But the chatter seemed very welcoming and friendly to me. ere were several adult Antarctic Fur Seals napping among the shoreline rocks. IAATO guidelines require a 45- feet perimeter that the seals themselves would enforce if anyone or their camera Wilson’s Storm-Petrel Jodi Frediani Gentoo Penguins Berend-Jan Bel

10 Day 5 Danco Island and Wilhelmina Bay 14 March 2016

by Kalasara Del Viscovo MAGICAL SUNSET Sunset took its time, casting beautiful- WILHELMINA BAY ly changing lights on the clouds that Vast and majestic mountains covered in reected o the snow, making the land snow and beautiful glaciers enclose Wil- look as if it glowed from within. e helmina Bay– truly a scenic paradise! whales in our company swam in front of e water was glassy and at, reecting a large iceberg with the most exquisite landscapes and icebergs that silently shade of teal blue under beautiful light, dotted the water. We Zodiac cruised making a most amazing shot! near a large iceberg to see the Crabeat- er Seals resting on it. Suddenly, the ice- A truly magical day–I am forever berg began rocking back and forth, then moved. cracked and ipped over! Somehow the seals managed to stay on. e newly re- DAY 5 AT NOON vealed hues of blue were otherworldly, Location Danco Island ranging from deep cobalt to Caribbean Latitude 64˚42’ S light blues to turquoise greens. Longitude 62˚39’ W Small Type B Ecotype Killer Whales in the Alisa Schulman-Janiger Many Humpback Whales (fondly called Total Sailed 798 miles “humpies”) were found in the bay, rest- Wind 10 knots WNW Southern Giant-Petrel, Antarctic Terns, lunch buet, the crew learned that the South Polar and Brown Skuas, and Wil- ing and logging (laying near the surface) Air Temperature 1.8°C quickest way to empty the dining room peacefully. Some blended in so well that son’s Storm-Petrel. Treasures found on only takes one word–Orcas! Aer a rush Weather Overcast the rocky shore included a few whale- they almost looked like the ice oating back to cabins to grab cameras and lay- around them. Along with several other bones and artifacts from the British ers, some people headed to the ship’s base. Gentoo Penguin carcasses litter- Zodiacs, we hung out with two of these decks and others to the bridge for some logging whales that eventually took in- ing the beach were also a reminder of whale watching. We were all rewarded the circle of life and its fragility in this terest in us and began to swim under with what was identied as “Small Type our boats while gazing up at us. ese harsh, icy climate. Causes most likely B” or “Gerlache” Killer Whales, as well multiple. moments of mutual observation were so as several Humpback Whales as the touching to all of us. ship sailed to Wilhelmina Bay. All of the SAILING TO WILHELMINA BAY whales were widely dispersed around While in Wilhelmina Bay we also It was good that we had stretched our the ship, providing action in every di- watched our scientic sta tag a whale muscles to work up an appetite for lunch rection. Our Antarctic adventures were and use a drone to record its health, un- back on the ship. Back on board, aer nally o with a great start. der the permission of special permits1. we stripped our layers and enjoyed our Crabeater Seal Helga Nuchelmans

11 15 March 2016 Waterboat Point and Neko Harbour Day 6

By Cristina Robinson At the landing site we were welcomed SAILING TO NEKO HARBOUR by 3,000 pairs of Gentoo Penguins During lunch back on the ship we sailed WATERBOAT POINT squawking, molting, and adults feeding to Neko Harbour. I will always remem- is morning, we set foot on the beach their chicks–quite a wondrous sight. ber this landing since I experienced near the González Videla Station, lo- Another unique-looking bird inhabited falling snow for the rst time here. cated on the Antarctic mainland’s Wa- this cramped area–the Snowy Sheath- Neko Harbour is one of the most sce- terboat Point in Paradise Bay. is sta- bill. It lives alongside the penguins since nic landings along the Gerlache Strait, tion is named aer Chilean President it depends on them for food, stealing a beautiful protected anchorage located Gabriel González Videla, who became krill and sh, and sometimes eating at the southeast end of the rst chief of state of any nation to their eggs and down-covered chicks, or and south of the Laussedat Heights on visit Antarctica in the 1940s. It was even consuming carrion and animal fe- the Antarctic Peninsula. is spot was most active in 1951 to 1958 but current- ces. It is truly the janitor of the colony. named “Neko” for a factory whaling ly the Chilean Air Force operates it in e Snowy Sheathbill reminded me of ship that used this bay while operating the summer only. is area has “island” a cross between a chicken and a dove, in the South Shetlands and Antarctic characteristics, but is only separated and I was intrigued to learn it is the only Peninsula in the early 1900s. e large from the mainland at high water and is species of its taxonomic family. ice mass that towers over Andvord Bay, more correctly described as a “point.” just north of our anchorage, is the Dev- ille Glacier.

Milage Home Dena Deck

DAY 6 AT NOON Location Waterboat Point Latitude 64˚48’ S Longitude 62˚51’ W Total Sailed 889 miles Wind 10 knots SSE Air Temperature 2.8°C Weather Overcast

Crabeater Seals Eddy Thys Curious Gentoo Penguin Alisa Schulman-Janiger

12 Day 6 Waterboat Point and Neko Harbour 15 March 2016

Zodiac Cruising Carolyn Peterson Gentoo Penguins Bart Heirweg

NEKO HARBOUR Aer a short slippery hike around Neko I was excited that we landed here on the Harbour, some of us went Zodiac cruis- Antarctic continent again. Active gla- ing. It was so peaceful to move through ciers calved multiple times during our glassy water while snow fell, delicately visit, one later causing a small tsunami. covering the icebergs and making them ere is a Gentoo Penguin colony here look like Disney decorations. Accom- and the last count (done in 2011) found panying us was a crew of six curious 1,097 pairs of breeding birds present. Crabeater Seals that took interest in our We watched one penguin that previ- Zodiac, swimming around us and mak- ously encountered a Leopard Seal and ing small waves. As serene as cruising was now surrounded by skuas awaiting through the snow was, returning to the its fate. It was a harsh reminder of how warm Ortelius was a perfect ending to brutal nature can be amongst all the such a memorable day. mystical beauty we came to see.

Iced Zodiac Robyn Woodward

13 16 March 2016 At Sea to the Antarctic Circle Day 7

By Diane Alps gusts up to 120 km/h and visibility was not so great. Fortunately, this gave us STORMY WEATHER opportunity to learn more during lec- We spent the sixth day of our voyage tures from our sta of experts, rest, edit sightseeing from the Ortelius in stormy photos, and relive our adventures with weather – the wind was howling with old and new friends.

Hugh Rose and Joe Kaplan Phil Clapham

Old and New Friends Phil Clapham Trip Planning Jodi Frediani

14 Day 7 At Sea to the Antarctic Circle 16 March 2016

ANTARCTIC CIRCLE CROSSED DAY 7 AT NOON We traveled a great distance today, start- Location French Passage ing near Anvers Island with hopes of Latitude 65˚16’ S paying a visit to Palmer Station and Pe- Longitude 65˚24’ W termann Island, but alas that was not to be. We sailed past Renaud and Lavoisier Total Sailed 1006 miles Islands, and continued southward. Wind 60 knots ENE Air Temperature 0.8°C We nally crossed over the Antarctic Circle at 66°34’ south very late in the Weather Stormy day, accomplishing one of our expe- dition goals, and giving us a cause for celebration! Ted Cheeseman, our Expe- dition Leader, and the Ortelius crew in- vited everyone to the lounge for bubbly to toast this momentous occasion. We are now counted among the very few people in the world to cross the Antarc- tic Circle. e Antarctic Circle is one of ve im- portant imaginary rings around the globe. It marks the northernmost place where the sun appears above the hori- Snowman on the Ortelius Diane Dunkman zon all day on the summer solstice and the southernmost place where the sun appears above the horizon on the win- ter solstice. It also marks the bound- ary between the South Frigid Zone to the south, also technically known as the Antarctic, and the “balmy” South Temperate Zone to the north, where the majority of our expedition actually occurred (those that took their polar plunge later in the trip could appreciate the dierence). Ice Arch Frank Jahn Snowy Deck Robyn Woodward

15 17 March 2016 Detaille Island Day 8

Stormy Skies Frank Jahn Gentoo Penguins Mary Pieper-Warren

By Bernardo Alps and a treacherous surge, but we reached hung in the workshop. Jars of mayon- shore safely. Aer climbing a short but naise, oats, custard powder, margarine NEW DAY steep incline we were rewarded with a and vanilla extract still ll the shelves. We awoke to the same stormy skies and rare sight in these parts: a manmade We had secured permission to visit the choppy seas that had chased us south structure: Base W of the British Antarc- base, and respectfully entered the hut in the day before, but the elements soon tic Survey. is is more than a museum; small groups to be transported back in Detaille Island Photographers Frank Jahn began to calm down. We crossed the it is a precious time capsule. e hut was time. Antarctic Circle the previous evening hastily abandoned in the fall of 1959 Outside the hut on Detaille Island, we ly the result of a scue with a Leopard and now reached the southernmost when it became clear that the base could were treated to an assemblage of Cra- Seal. A few South Polar Skuas ew by point of our expedition: Detaille Island, not be resupplied for the winter. Every- beater, Weddell, and Antarctic Fur Seals to eye the visitors on their domain, a which lies at the mouth of Lallemand thing that the ten personnel could not hauled out on ice oes gathered in the few Kelp Gulls ew over, and Antarctic Fjord o the northern end of the Ar- take on a 50 km. dogsled trip across the bay. ey basked in the sun, which was Shags were perched on nearby icebergs. rowsmith Peninsula. ice to the resupply ship Biscoe can still nally breaking through the dissipating It was here that most of us saw the only be found as it was le behind. Parkas storm clouds. Some of the Crabeater Adelie Penguins of the trip, as this late DETAILLE ISLAND and long underwear hang on the walls, Seals were scooting around in the fresh in the season the colonies had already sleeping bags lay on cots, magazines are e challenging landing was in a nar- snow as if trying to make snow angels. been abandoned. strewn on tables, and tools are neatly row cove with tall icy embankments One had fresh gashes on its belly, like-

16 Day 8 Detaille Island 17 March 2016

SPECTACULAR ICEBERG DAY 8 AT NOON We saw many icebergs during our time Location Detaille Island in Antarctica. ey ranged in size from Latitude 66˚50’ S a car (smaller than that and they are not Longitude 66˚51’ W icebergs anymore) to a container ship. ey came in countless dierent shapes, Total Sailed 1157 miles textures and colors. ere seemed to Wind 20 knots W be no end to the variations on the ice- Air Temperature -1.0°C berg theme. And on our way back north Weather Partly Sunny from Detaille Island we encountered the most spectacular of them all. It was a cathedral iceberg, just smaller than a Super Bowl touchdown. We marveled football eld, about four stories high at the many shades of white and hues and surrounded by the most incredible of blue glow. And we noticed the many arches and pinnacles. As the Ortelius cracks and crevices, a sure sign that this slowly circled this natural wonder, more monster won’t stay intact much longer. camera clicks were heard than during a Crabeater Seals on Ice Marc Poelman

Base W Cathryn Stewart Cathedral Iceberg Frank Jahn Cathy and Greg Hachigian Cathy Hachigian

17 18 March 2016 Booth Island and Petermann Island Day 9

By April Ryan BOOTH ISLAND e landing on Booth Island was abso- SALPETRIERE BAY ANCHORAGE lutely stunning and Bart Heirweg, part is morning, the sun lit up Antarcti- of our talented expedition sta, wasted ca beautifully as we ventured out for a no time assisting photographers in set- choice of landing at Booth Island or Zo- ting up their cameras to capture artistic diac cruising in Salpetriere Bay between scenes. He generously pointed out photo Pleneau and Booth Islands. Booth Is- ops to others passing by and drew them land forms the western edge of the Le- into his “lesson.” Icebergs, fur seals and maire Channel, dropping precipitously Adelie Penguins (of course) made great to the east, but with more gentle slopes subject matter for everyone. to the west. All three species of brush- tailed penguins nest together here; the Leaving a scintillating landing is always most recent penguin counts from 2011 a “downer,” but around 11:30 AM we show there were only 10 pairs of Ade- headed back to the ship for another sat- lies, 1,181 pairs of Gentoos (up from isfying lunch. While the ship sailed the 329 pairs in 2001), 20 pairs of Chin- short distance south to Petermann Is- straps in addition to 19 pairs of shags. land, we warmed up and refueled. Terns Peter Fisher

Exploring Boothe Island on Foot Frank Jahn Penguin Colony Karen Backer

18 Day 9 Booth Island and Petermann Island 18 March 2016

too colonies, and many other nesting birds including Antarctic Shags, and Snowy Sheathbills. Our sta reported a big change here since Cheesemans’ rst visited in 1992 when Gentoos started showing up. Now very few Adelies re- main, but large numbers of Gentoos are doing very well. In addition to the Gentoo colony, we found a skua “club,” and both Arctic and Antarctic Terns ying overhead. oughts of the Arctic Tern’s astonishing yearly journey lled Whale Fin Abstract Berend-Jan Bel my mind as I watched them. is tern ies from its Arctic breeding grounds here to the Antarctic and back again each year, the shortest distance between these areas being 19,000 km (12,000 mi). e long journey ensures that this bird sees two summers per year and more daylight than any other creature on the planet. Nature is amazing – we have seen so much already and know there is even more to soak in.

DAY 9 AT NOON Crabeater Seal Martha Stewart Location Pleneau Island Latitude 65˚06’ S PETERMANN ISLAND ops. Petermann Island’s majestic clis Longitude 64˚02’ W e weather was still cooperating when and mountains were breathtaking and Total Sailed 1353 miles we boarded the Zodiacs once again. we weren’t disappointed with our new Wind 25 knots SSW landing site. Humpback Whales swam around the Air Temperature 1.2°C icebergs and showed-o their ukes in Once on Petermann, we found Adelies, Weather Partly Sunny front of the clis, providing more photo one of the world’s southernmost Gen- Footprints Cathryn Stewart

19 19 March 2016 Wilhelmina Bay and Cuverville Island Day 10

By April Ryan As on other days, languid Humpback Whales “uked” with spectacular scen- WILHELMINA BAY ery as a backdrop– we never ceased to e day dawned crisp and bright for be amazed at the beauty. Armed with Zodiac cruising on Wilhelmina Bay. Dr. the knowledge that unique identi- Ari Friedlaender, Dr. Lars Bejder, and able markings on a whale’s ukes (tail) Dr. Fredrik Christiansen (part of our and dorsal n allow identifying and scientic sta, AKA “the Whale Science non-invasively tracking individual Team”) set out with the National Geo- whales, we submitted photos online to graphic team in Zodiacs for whale tag- Happy Whale (happywhale.com). Bin- ging and biopsies1. Several Zodiacs full go! We were very excited to identify a of our shipmates took the opportunity few well-traveled whales plus new ones to video the experience that they later whom we assigned nicknames. shared. Crabeater Seals were hauled We went back to the ship for lunch out on icebergs everywhere, warming served with a healthy portion of stories themselves in the morning sun. Icebergs Shapes in the Ice Phil Clapham about the morning’s adventures as our seemed to be carved into sculptures of trusty ship, the Ortelius, sailed onward orcas, ships, and candles, and we all en- to more adventures. joyed calling out imaginary shapes.

Whale Interaction Ted Cheeseman The Ortelius Alisa Schulman-Janiger

20 Day 10 Wilhelmina Bay and Cuverville Island 19 March 2016

CUVERVILLE ISLAND Peninsula. were frisky, sparring with one another. ere were even remnants from an old Cuverville Island was our next stop, Cruising around the island’s staggering whaling station. Chinstrap Penguins with the added enticement of stretching scenery, we were amazed by the icebergs were found colonizing some of the outer our legs on terra rma. is rocky is- and enthralled with the Crabeater Seals islands, while Adelies again were front land was discovered by the Belgian Ant- swimming amongst them. arctic Expedition of 1897 to 1899 under and center – engaged in swimming and , who named it for As we landed on the beach, we were preening, or just resting. Whether you J.M.A. Cavelier de Cuverville, a vice welcomed by a lone Southern Elephant are a naturalist, photographer, scientist, admiral of the French Navy. BirdLife Seal who coolly watching our comings or enthusiast, the day was stunning in International declares Cuverville an Im- and goings as we set out across the is- all its glory. portant Bird Area (IBA) because it sup- land to explore at our own pace. Ant- South Polar Skua Bonnie Gretz ports a breeding colony of about 3,500 arctic Shags and Antarctic Terns were DAY 10 AT NOON pairs of Gentoo Penguins, the largest starting their nesting season and were a Location Wilhelmina Bay Gentoo colony found on the Antarctic joy to watch and photograph. Fur seals Latitude 64˚39’ S Longitude 62˚06’ W Total Sailed 1457 miles Wind 5 knots W Air Temperature 2.6°C Weather Sunny Penguins in Motion Bart Heirweg

Crabeater Seal Eddy Thys Gentoo Penguin Robyn Woodward

21 Happy Whales

By Ted Cheeseman

HAPPY WHALES Our expedition documented 102 individually identi able Humpback Whales, a real contribution to understanding pop- ulation dynamics of great whales in the Antarctic. Of these (a er much work with thanks to Allied Whale, College of the Atlantic) we know 90 were new to science and 12 were previously known individuals. Fully one third of our group con- tributed images, truly the face of high quality citizen science. Some of the identi able whale tails are shown here, but you can see the voyages collective e orts at Happywhale.com.

22 23 20 March 2016 Orne Islands and Dallmann Bay Day 11

By Felicity Hughes and April Ryan early start landed half of us on the island while the other half Zodiac-cruised, and ORNE ISLANDS later we switched positions so everyone Aer sailing back down the Gerlache could get a good feel for the place. Strait, we found our ship anchored near e island shoreline was covered in Orne Islands this morning. Orne Is- rocks presenting us with a challenge so lands are a small archipelago lying close early in the morning. We all managed to Rongé and Cuverville Islands (where to get a good foothold and were soon we visited yesterday), o the west coast exploring the largest Chinstrap Penguin of Graham Land. e Belgian Antarctic colony that we found on this expedition. Expedition led by Adrien Gerlache rst Chinstraps certainly are feisty creatures surveyed it in 1898. and held our attention with their pen- Gentoo Penguin Cathryn Stewart We were excited this morning to have guin antics. A guided walk around the another chance of landing on Orne Is- island gave some of us great opportu- lands aer bypassing it due to dicult nities for photographing the Blue-eyed landing conditions on March 15. It was Shags and other seabirds, plus many an overcast and cold morning, but we Gentoo Penguins. We were lucky to nd hoped conditions would brighten. An four dierent species of seals: Antarctic

Crabeater Seal Eddy Thys Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins April Ryan

24 Day 11 Orne Islands and Dallmann Bay 20 March 2016

DAY 11 AT NOON Location Gerlache Strait Latitude 64˚27’ S Longitude 62˚55’ W Total Sailed 1510 miles Wind 25 knots NE Air Temperature 1.8°C Weather Overcast

Fur, Weddell, Leopard, and Crabeater. e Zodiac cruisers were treated to close looks at penguins going to and from the island as they treaded through the many Whale Science Drone in Action Jodi Frediani small icebergs oating oshore. At noontime we all headed back to the Ortelius for a warming and re-energiz- ing lunch as the ship sailed to Dallman Bay, a short strait shot almost directly northward from Orne Islands.

DALLMANN BAY Pectoral Fin Abstract Ted Cheeseman Dallmann Bay lies between Brabant and Anvers Islands and is connected to Ger- ning Zodiac cruising around the bay. lache Strait by the Schollaert Channel. It A highlight was a Leopard Seal that was discovered and rst charted in 1874 “mugged” one of the Zodiacs as they by the German whaler Captain Eduard willingly obliged, getting nice photos in Dallmann. It was named for Dallmann the process. e Whale Science Team by the Society for Polar Navigation, found another Humpback Whale to Hamburg, which sponsored Dallmann’s tag1 and observe, adding to the success Antarctic exploration. of their project, a tting end to another We spent the aernoon and early eve- day in this Antarctic paradise. Feather Cathryn Stewart Taking in the Scenes Cathy Hachigian

25 21 March 2016 Wilhelmina Bay and Cierva Cove Day 12

Equinox Sun Bob Haskell Barnacles Pamela Reynolds

By April Ryan Our Whale Science Team retrieved a tag1 from a Humpback Whale that they WILHELMINA BAY tracked all night. It turned out to be a Spring Equinox saw the Ortelius an- very successful endeavor since the tag chored back in Wilhelmina Bay (see was attached to the whale for more than March 19). e morning was dark and twenty-four hours. Dr. Ari Friedlaender moody, but in contrast, our spirits were was up to the task, skillfully lassoing the soaring. We piled in Zodiacs for our tag from a forty-ton whale. e infor- second tour around the bay, again see- mation recorded in the tag shows where ing whales and seals but this time under the whale traveled and when it was much dierent conditions. Each day in feeding or resting. Antarctica is very unique aording us dierent experiences, even at the same location. Antarctic Shag Carolyn Peterson

26 Day 12 Wilhelmina Bay and Cierva Cove 21 March 2016

DAY 12 AT NOON is aernoon, Zodiacs were again Location Wilhelmina Bay launched in beautiful Cierva Cove. Latitude 64˚18’ S We were not disappointed with Cierva Cove – it is one of the most beautiful Longitude 61˚37’ W Zodiac cruising spots along this part Total Sailed 1606 miles of the Antarctic Peninsula. We found Wind 5 knots ESE ourselves surrounded by steep ice clis Air Temperature N/A dropping into a cove lled with ice in Weather Sunny all its varieties–icebergs, ice oes, and brash ice.

PLUNGE INTO THE FREEZER As we cruised the cove, expedition sta member Hugh Rose sighted something Closer to the ship, a group of ten thought in the distance – a Leopard Seal hauled- plunging into the Southern Ocean out on an iceberg. It appeared that she would be fun! Humpbacks “uked” and had just eaten and now wanted a nap, so Crabeater Seals swam nearby as if to we snapped as many photos as we could say, “Come on in, the water’s ne.” So a before leaving her in peace. Hugh and few intrepid dunkers did just that. Some fellow sta member Shelli Ogilvy soon Leopard Seal Jodi Frediani jumped in and right back out again just found three Minke Whales who were to check it o their bucket list, while in a curious mood. ey swam around others like John King and Cameron our Zodiacs for at least thirty minutes, Wood treated it as a morning swim. But much to our thrilled delight. Brendan Doherty got the style points for a cannonball entry. Arctic Ocean In the distance, the Whale Science next anyone? Team gave up on tagging to simply rel- ish an encounter with a group of play- CIERVA COVE ful Humpback Whales. Bernardo Alps It was a very successful morning but we and Joe Kaplan, both on our expedition still had adventures ahead today. Once sta, steered their Zodiacs over as the our ship was reloaded with swimmers, spy-hopping Humpbacks swam under scientists, and Zodiac cruisers, the Or- and around them for an hour and a half! telius sailed up Gerlache Strait to Cier- With the sunset casting a buttery glow va Cove as we ate lunch, organized our on the icebergs and landscape, we very gear, and rested. reluctantly tore ourselves away and re- turned to the Ortelius. Antarctic Tern Felicity Hughes

27 22 March 2016 Half Moon Island Day 13

By Diane Alps seals along the landing beach, and Chinstrap Penguins. e throughout the island. island hosts a success- LAST LANDING ful breeding colony for Half Moon Island is home to the Cámara We ocially le the Antarctic Penin- the Chinstraps of ap- Base, an Argentine base and scientic sula and made our way to the South proximately 2,000 pairs. research station. Ted Cheeseman led Shetland Islands for our last excursion Other birds that nest on a hiking group beyond the base to the before our journey home. Half Moon Is- Half Moon Island are highest peak of the island (all of about land is located between Livingston and South Polar Skuas, Ant- 100 meters in elevation). Greenwich Islands. It has a perfect cres- arctic Terns, Kelp Gulls, cent shape just as the name implies. LONE MACARONI PENGUIN Wilson’s Storm-Petrels, Snowy Sheathbills, and e rst sights on our landing beach AMONG CHINSTRAPS Antarctic Shags. were old waterboats used to transport Other shipmates quietly wandered, fresh water for whaling operations. basking in the last landing of the jour- We were fortunate to ere were also large numbers of fur ney and enjoying excellent looks at nd a Macaroni Penguin Macaroni Penguin Karen Backer

Antarctic Fur Seal Bernardo Alps Crustose Lichen Ellen Gilkerson Antarctic Fur Seal Alisa Schulman-Janiger

28 Day 13 Half Moon Island 22 March 2016

to add to our bird list for the trip! One PENGUIN HIGHWAY ratty, molting individual was amongst e Chinstraps used a ravine as a major the dozens of Chinstraps that appeared thoroughfare to cross from one side of to be partaking in courtship rituals on the island to the other. the blus on Baliza Hill at the south end of the island. Many, including myself, I enjoyed watching fellow shipmates were captivated by the busy little ight- wait while pulses of penguins walked less birds. I could have stayed watching through. A small group of people even and photographing them for hours! We found perfect spots to sit and watch this saw them arranging sticks and bits to “penguin parade.” create cozy nesting spots, cooing and bobbing their heads at each other, and STREET VIEW we even witnessed a few more “inti- On a fun side note, Half Moon Island mate” displays! seems to be the rst location in the Antarctic with a Street View in Google Once we le the Chinstrap-covered pla- Maps. is means you can re-live the teau to head back to the landing beach, day’s hike anytime you want! You’ll even we found the Antarctic Fur Seals get- nd a few adventurers walking around, ting more and more curious about us. making you feel right at home. Chinstrap Penguin Alisa Schulman-Janiger In many cases, they approached a little too close for comfort, but we found that clanking a couple of rocks together would gently encourage them to take a dierent route.

DAY 13 AT NOON Location Half Moon Island Latitude 62˚35’ S Longitude 59˚53’ W Total Sailed 1740 miles Wind 20 knots SW Air Temperature 1.6°C Weather Overcast

Chinstrap Penguin Cindy Atkins Chinstrap Penguins Alisa Schulman-Janiger

29 23-24 March 2016 At Sea to Ushuaia Days 14-15

By Bernardo Alps and Antarctic Storm-petrels, and in- life, and our fellow adventurers. DAY 14 AT NOON cluding the Giant Petrels, Pintado Pe- e auction turned into another trip Location Drake Passage DRAKE PASSAGE trels and Antarctic Fulmars, we had highlight. It featured something for Latitude 59˚29’ S e Drake Passage was a millpond com- many opportunities to watch these mas- everyone’s taste, from a (only slightly Longitude 62˚14’ W pared to our crossing a couple weeks ters of the ocean realm in their element. worn) chief scientist’s down jacket, to earlier. We still had rough seas by any Total Sailed 1961 miles artwork, hand-made clothing, vacation standard, but dishes and chairs not y- SHIPBOARD ACTIVITIES Wind 30 knots N rentals, books, and so much more. Both ing across the dining room was a huge We rested a bit, socialized with new the donations and the bidding were a Air Temperature 4°C improvement. friends, attended more lectures, and demonstration of overwhelming gen- Weather Overcast Many of us took the opportunity to get began editing our pictures. We gath- erosity in support of worthy conserva- better looks at the many amazing sea- ered one more time in the lecture hall to tion, research, and education causes. All birds that we had barely glimpsed the share our photos and relive our adven- punctuated by Rolando’s libations and education fund. tures. e photos were stunning. Who rst time around. From the majestic some memorable vocal performances. Finally, on our last evening we gathered Wandering and Royal Albatrosses, and would have thought that our group We are proud to announce that the auc- on the bow of the Ortelius for a group the smaller but still imposing Black- was composed of such talented artists? tion raised nearly $16,000 to be split photo just before dinner in the shadow browed and Gray–headed Albatrosses, “Oohs and aahs” were heard throughout equally between Dr. Ari Friedlaender’s of the South American continent. True down to the delicate Antarctic Prions the show that featured landscapes, wild- research lab at Oregon State University, to form, Dr. Ari Friedlaender spotted American Bird Conservancy Seabirds a few Sei Whales and a small pod of at Sea / Save the Albatross fund, and Peale’s Dolphins to close out our ceta- American Cetacean Society’s student cean sightings just before we sat down for our last dinner on board.

On Deck Phil Clapham “White Nellie” - Morph of a Southern Giant Petrel Heike Dietzmann

30 Days 14-15 At Sea to Ushuaia 23-24 March 2016

By Cindy Atkins formance is indeed magnicent; huge feel it from within. waves crash wildly around the bow and From my perch the ocean seems to en- REFLECTIONS ON THE OCEAN alongside the ship. Each new wave that compass me and I reect, “What did As I peer out of our cabin porthole (I takes on the ship’s force is met as the you see? What did you learn? What did found this to be my private viewing spot wave bursts forth with an explosion of you feel? Please share our stories. Tell while standing on a bed) my eyes scan frothy white foam. A mystic overspray all, but the experience is a secret to be the seemingly never-ending horizon shoots up and hundreds of tiny water only shared by a true adventurist who over laid-in thick fog. Only charcoal droplets fall down into the twisting and dares to journey to the bottom of the waves are visible, churning to what ap- churning water. earth…” pears to be an unorganized plan of the How can it be that the monotonous dull ocean’s power. Together they crash and gray ocean can be so transformed into join forces with a power to be reckoned DAY 15 AT NOON such a magical array of mesmerizing with. Location Drake Passage color? Each new wave forms a unique Latitude 56˚07’ S e hazy sun shines down with just a pattern as the foam separates into Longitude 65˚26’ W glimmer of light upon the gray rolling patches of gray and white foam, and of waves and provides a silvery topping, a course that blue. As I peer intently deep Total Sailed 2191 miles jewel-like eect. into the ocean, I am delighted to see Wind 50 knots W that blue, that glorious iridescent blue. I With the ship’s steadfast forward move- Air Temperature 8.1°C learned to love that color and describe it ment each wave appears to be calling Weather Overcast only as an inner soul color. You have to “challenge me, challenge me.” e per-

Neverending Horizon Ted Cheeseman Hues of Blue Rudolf van Putten

31 25 March 2016 Disembarkation Day 16

By Bernardo Alps

DISEMBARKATION Our trip came full circle this morning as our ship docked in Ushuaia, Argenti- na. Everyone disembarked the Ortelius, bidding sad farewells to many old and new friends–our family for the past few weeks. With lupines now in full bloom we take one last look at our ship and port city before heading to destinations across the globe. Until next time, good health to you and your planet!

Iceberg Maggie MacPherson Ice Formations Frank Jahn

Photography Rudolf van Putten Calm Waters Jodi Frediani

32 33 Iceberg Helga Nuchelmans EXPEDITION STAFF AND PARTICIPANTS

Renee Albertson Bernardo Alps Diane Alps Newport, OR San Pedro, CA San Pedro, CA USA USA USA

Lars Bejder Fredrik Christiansen Phil Clapham Murdoch, WA Scarborough, WA Seattle, WA Australia Australia USA

Scott Davis Ari Friedlaender Bart Heirweg Moss Landing, CA South Beach, OR Oudenaarde USA USA Belgium

Yulia Ivashchenko Joe Kaplan Ron Niebrugge Seattle, WA Escanaba, MI Seward, AK USA USA USA

Shelli Ogilvy Nick Pyenson Tim Reynolds Arroyo Seco, NM Washington DC Texarkana, TX USA USA USA

Hugh Rose Juan Manuel Salcedo Lesley Thorne Fairbanks, AK Puerto Ayora Galápagos Stony Brook, NY USA Ecuador USA

34 35 25 Mar 25 Mar

24 Mar √ √ 24 Mar

23 Mar √ √ √ √ 23 Mar √ √√ √ √ √ √ 22 Mar √ √22 Mar √

21 Mar 21 Mar

20 Mar √ √ √ √ √20 √ Mar √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 19 Mar √ 19 Mar

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17 Mar √ √ √ √ √ 17 Mar √ √ √ 16 Mar √ √ √ √ √ 16 Mar

15 Mar √ 15 Mar √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 14 Mar √ √ √ 14 Mar √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 13 Mar √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √13 √ Mar √ √ √ 12 Mar √√ √ √ √ √ √ 12 Mar √ √ √ √ √ 11 Mar √ √ 11 Mar √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 10 Mar √√√√√√√√√√√√√10 Mar (page 1 of 2) SPECIES LIST BY DATE SPECIES LIST BY MAMMALS Fox) (Fuegian Culpeo Seal Fur Antarctic Penguin Gentoo Penguin Chinstrap Crabeater Seal Crabeater Seal Leopard Weddell Seal Weddell Magellanic Penguin Penguin Macaroni Albatross Gray-headed Albatross Black-browed Albatross Light-mantled Albatross Royal BIRDS Swan Black-necked Upland Goose Kelp Goose Steamer-Duck Flying Steamer-Duck Flightless Duck Crested Spectacled Duck Red Shoveler Pintail Yellow-billed Teal Yellow-billed Grebe Great Penguin Adelie Southern Seal Elephant Whale Fin Dolphin Hourglass B Type - Gerlache Strait Orca Albatross Wandering Southern Giant-Petrel Northern Giant-Petrel Southern Fulmar Petrel Antarctic Petrel Snow Antarctic Petrel Cape Humpback Whale

36 25 Mar 15-Nov √ √ 24 Mar √ 14-Nov √ √ √ √ 23 Mar √√ √ 13-Nov ? 22 Mar √ 12-Nov

21 Mar 11-Nov

20 Mar √ √ √ 10-Nov

19 Mar 9-Nov

18 Mar √ √ √ √ √ 8-Nov

17 Mar 7-Nov

16 Mar ? 6-Nov

15 Mar 5-Nov

14 Mar √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 4-Nov

13 Mar √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 3-Nov ? √√√√√√√√√√√√ √ 12 Mar √ √ √ 2-Nov ? √ √ √ 11 Mar √ √ 1-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 10 Mar √ √ 31-Oct (page 2 of 2) SPECIES LIST BY DATE SPECIES LIST BY Wilson's Storm-Petrel Wilson's Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Black-bellied Neotropic Cormorant Neotropic Magellanic Cormorant Shag Antarctic Imperial Cormorant Condor Andean Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Snowy Sheathbill Blackish Oystercatcher Magellanic Oystercatcher Southern Lapwing South American Snipe Chilean Skua Skua South Polar Skua Brown Gull Brown-hooded Dolphin Gull Kelp Gull Tern Antarctic Magellanic Woodpecker Southern Caracara Chimango Caracara Parakeet Austral Treerunner White-throated Rayadito Thorn-tailed Tit-Tyrant Tufted White-crested Elaenia House Wren Sierra-Finch Patagonian Sparrow Rufous-collared House Sparrow diving-petrel sp. diving-petrel Great Shearwater Great Sooty Shearwater Antarctic Prion Antarctic Kerguelen Petrel Kerguelen Blue Petrel Prion Fairy Prion Slender-billed White-chinned Petrel Soft-plumaged Petrel

37 WHALES FROM MANY PERSPECTIVES

Spyhopping Humpback Ken Sexton

Deep Dive Stephanie Newkirk

Spyhopping Humpback Marc Poelman

Fluking Humpback Alisa Schulman-Janiger

Surfacing Humpback Ken Sexton Humpback Blow Diane Dunkman Fluking T5 Humpback Alisa Schulman-Janiger

38 WHALES FROM MANY PERSPECTIVES

Pod of Humpbacks Alisa Schulman-Janiger

Pectoral Slap Bernardo Alps

Fluking Humpback Heike Dietzmann

Sounding Dive Alisa Schulman-Janiger

Barnacles Mary Schafer Fluking T1 Humpback Alisa Schulman-Janiger Stove Bolts Cat Stewart

39 40 41 42 Midnight Light Marley Watkins ANTARCTIC PENINSULA EXPEDITION LOG 2016

CHEESEMANS’ ECOLOGY SAFARIS (800) 527-5330 555 North Santa Cruz Avenue www.cheesemans.com Los Gatos, CA 95030 USA [email protected]