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Antarctic Peninsula the Extended Expedition to the White Continent 1 to 16 January 2013

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Antarctic Peninsula the Extended Expedition to the White Continent 1 to 16 January 2013 ANTA RCTIC PENINSULA T HE E XTENDED EXP EDITION TO THE WHITE C ONTINENT C HEESEMANS’ E C OLOGY S AFARIS E XPEDITION L OG 2013 CHEESEMANS’ ECOLOGY SAFARIS EXPEDITION LOG Antarctic Peninsula The Extended Expedition to the White Continent 1 to 16 January 2013 Markus Eichenberger Willian Draisma Willian Draisma Designed by Debbie Thompson and Kate Spencer Dailies coordinated by Joe Kaplan and written by Tom Fleischner, Jessica Joganic, Rosemary Joganic, Joe Kaplan, Samantha Oester, Christina Prahl, Clemens Vanderwerf, and Shirley West; with contributions from other participants Images by passengers and sta as credited Cover Photo Almirante Brown By Kathy Richardson Back Cover Photo Grandidier Channel By Dustin Richards This Page Photo Almirante Brown By Willian Draisma COPYRIGHT NOTICE Copyright ©2013 Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris Photographers hold the copyright to their work. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Introduction 1 For over twenty years, Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris has op- The Expedition 2 erated the longest, most in-depth expeditions to the Ant- arctic region, a destination of supreme splendor and seren- Ushuaia and Embarkation 1 January 4 ity that deserves no less. We are honored that each of you At Sea to The Peninsula 2 January 6 chose to travel with us on this lifetime journey. Much time Half Moon Island 3 January 8 and e ort was invested, most of it “behind the scenes,” to ensure that you had the same life altering experience that Cierva Cove and Danco Island 4 January 10 so many of our previous expedition participants a rm. Cuverville Island and Port Lockroy 5 January 12 On 31 December we celebrated New Year’s Eve in Ushuaia, Antarctic Circle and Detaille Island 6 January 16 Argentina, and then boarded our ship the Ortelius the fol- Hugh Rose David Meeks Petermann and Booth Islands 7 January 18 lowing morning, sailing 2,337 miles over the next 16 days, with 97 passengers, 13 Paradise Bay and Almirante Brown 8 January 22 expedition sta , and the hardworking ship’s crew. We plied the famous waters sur- rounding the majestic Antarctic Peninsula, where new and unexpected adventures Deception Island 9 January 24 greeted us every day. A crowning expedition milestone was the crossing of the Ant- Brown Bluff and Hope Bay 10 January 26 arctic Circle with a landing at Detaille Island on 6 January 2013. Whales seemed to Gourdin Island 11 January 29 accompany us throughout the trip and daily landings with penguins and seals set in landscapes of unimaginable beauty kept us wondering what the next day would Penguin Island and Yankee Harbour 12 January 30 bring. Our journey came full-circle and to a close on 17 January, when we arrived Hannah Point and Aitcho Islands 13 January 32 back in Ushuaia, Argentina, a er a tranquil crossing of the Drake Passage. At Sea to Ushuaia 14 January 34 e success of an expedition is dependent on many factors including weather, sea At Sea to Ushuaia 15 January 35 conditions, and insightful planning. But the most important ingredient by far is the Disembarkation 16 January 36 open attitude and persona of our expedition-mates. Our entire expedition sta is very grateful to each of you for making this a successful journey lled with memo- Postcards from the Field 36 rable lifelong experiences that we all now share. is expedition has extended the The Route 38 Cheeseman family with many new friends and old friendships were strengthened The Staff 40 during the many days of adventure! The Group 41 I would like to express heartfelt gratitude to everyone on the trip for your will- Photo Montage 42 ingness to protect these remote environments, each in your own way. Remember, Carpe Diem and until our paths cross again on another adventure, never stop ex- Species List 44 ploring! Retrospect: Nature’s Sculpture 46 Warmest regards, Hugh Rose Expedition Leader 1 THE EXPEDITION January 1 Sakari Reitamo January 2 Clemens Vanderwerf January 3 Clemens Vanderwerf January 4 Leen Brans Ushuaia and Embarkation page 4 At Sea to The Peninsula page 6 Half Moon Island page 8 Cierva Cove and Danco Island page 10 January 9 Barbara Klesel January 10 Monika Egli January 11 David Cook January 12 Marc Hester Deception Island page 24 Brown Blu and Hope Bay page 26 Gourdin Island page 29 Penguin Island and Yankee Harbour page 30 Marc Hester Joe Filer Leen Brans 2 THE EXPEDITION January 5 Dick Rhudy January 6 Dick Rhudy January 7 Ron Niebrugge January 8 Sue Lloyd Cuverville Island and Port Lockroy page 12 Antarctic Circle and Detaille Island page 16 Petermann and Booth Islands page 18 Paradise Bay and Almirante Brown page 22 January 13 Clemens Vanderwerf January 14 Patrick Endres January 15 Marc Hester January 16 Jessica Joganic Hannah Point and Aitcho Islands page 32 At Sea to Ushuaia page 34 At Sea to Ushuaia page 35 Disembarkation page 36 Leen Brans John Clark Markus Eichenberger 3 1 January 2013 Ushuaia and Embarkation Day 1 Tierra del Fuego National Park Clint Heiple Tierra del Fuego National Park Marc Hester By Joe Kaplan Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, White- bellied Tree Runner, orn-tailed Ray- USHUAIA AND TIERRA DEL adito, and Austral Negrito. One of the FUEGO NATIONAL PARK highlights for many was the magni cent Our trip began in earnest on New Year’s Magellanic Woodpecker, the largest Day with nearly a full day of natural in South America, which inhabits ma- history observation, birding, and pho- ture stands of Nothofagus or Southern tographing along the Ushuaia water- Beech forests. We observed the male front and the Nothofagus forests and woodpecker with its showy re-curved tidal bays of nearby Tierra del Fuego scarlet crest, rst spotted (thanks Rose- National Park. e observations today mary) basking in sunlight on a dead nicely represented typical species of the snag with wings spread wide preening southern Austral forests and mountains ectoparasites from its feathers! Later it including the majestic Andean Condor, provided close views as it foraged for Magellanic and Flying Steamer Ducks, grubs in deadwood with its chisel-like the showy Dolphin Gull, Red Shoveler, bill. Black-necked Swan, Austral Parakeet, Grey Fox David Everett 4 Day 1 Ushuaia and Embarkation 1 January 2013 EMBARKING ON THE ORTELIUS By early evening we boarded the Orte- lius (named a er the eenth-century Flemish cartographer), settled into our cabins, and enjoyed a welcome cocktail and toast by expedition leader Hugh Rose, thus setting the mood for a great adventure to the ice-dominated land and seascape of Antarctica. THE BEAGLE CHANNEL A er dinner and required lifeboat drills, we set sail against a backdrop of mountains and so evening light. Sail- ing down the Beagle Channel provided our rst opportunity to spot seabirds and mammals as we got to work iden- tifying Black-browed Albatross, South- ern Giant Petrel, Chilean Skua, South American Tern, Rock and Imperial Magellanic Woodpecker male Monika Egli Shag, Magellanic Penguin, and our only Embarking on the Ortelius Patrick Endres South American Sea Lions of the trip. Magellanic Penguin Anita DuPratt Parasitic fungus in the Beech forest Clint Heiple Chimango Caracara Clint Heiple 5 2 January 2013 At Sea to The Peninsula Day 2 By Joe Kaplan DRAKE PASSAGE Today was spent crossing the Drake Passage en route to the South Shetland Islands, an o en-tumultuous 500-mile wide ocean waterway. Atypically, con- ditions were extremely mild with light winds and comfortable temperatures. While it’s hard to nd fault with such pleasant conditions, it did make sea- bird watching a little challenging since dynamic ight is di cult in sustained winds of only ve knots. Still, we man- aged to identify some fantastic seabirds including diving petrels, Wandering, Biosecurity inspection of clothes and gear Patrick Endres Royal, Black-browed, and Gray-headed Albatrosses, Antarctic Prion, Cape Pe- trel, both Giant Petrels (including our only Northern of the trip), Blue Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Wilson’s and Black-bellied Storm Petrels. Pelagic penguins also showed and included Macaroni and all three Pygoscelis or brush-tailed penguins: Adelie, Gentoo, and Chinstrap. Unfortunately, today reveled very little in the way of marine Cape Petrels Eleanor Briccetti mammals with distant blows providing our only encounters with cetaceans. tting. We also started biosecurity in- spection of all our clothes and gear to Meanwhile, on ship we prepared for assure that Antarctica stays free of for- Antarctica proper with a full day of eign plant and animal pests that have informative lectures and presentations wreaked havoc the world over. by expedition sta , Zodiac orientation, Antarctic Treaty protocols, and boot Informative lectures Limo John Janson 6 Day 2 At Sea to The Peninsula 2 January 2013 Antarctic Petrel Clemens Vanderwerf Watching wildlife from the Ortelius Roberta Rhudy DAY 2 AT 7:30 A.M. Location Drake Passage Latitude 56°28.5’ S Longitude 65°15.1’ W Total Sailed 158 miles Wind 5 m/s NW Air Temperature 6°C Water Temperature 10°C Seas Slight Weather Cloudy Eleanor Briccetti Pat Rea Sue Lloyd Pat Rea Jim Clinkenbeard Pat Rea 7 3 January 2013 Half Moon Island Day 3 By Joe Kaplan Light-mantled Albatross. A showing rants, and penguins appeared en masse ready for action. Making my way to the of an Antarctic Petrel was a welcomed against an incredible backdrop of rocky ship’s gangway, I couldn’t help feeling ANTARCTIC CONVERGENCE surprise. is species, though an Ant- peaks, islands, and icebergs. as sti as Ralphie’s little brother in A Conditions remained mild for our sec- arctic endemic with a large population Christmas Story. I waited for my turn By Christina Prahl ond day at sea allowing for a full sched- in the Ross and Weddell Seas, is rarely then climbed down the gangway stairs ule of sta lectures and continuation of observed around the Peninsula during FIRST ZODIAC RIDE hanging on the side of the ship, boarded biosecurity inspections.
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