A LAKE FULL OF FLAVOURS

Walking amid the fragrances and flavours of Lake Como www.lakecomo.it [email protected] CONTENTS

Presentation and introduction 2

A Lake full of wine 4 Itinerary: The Upper Lake area

As beautiful as a ower 8 Itinerary: Discovering villages, villas and gardens from the water

As smooth as oil 12 Itinerary: Oil Basin and Comacina Island

Plenty more sh 16 Itinerary: Bellagio to taste

As good as... bread 20 Itinerary: From the lake to the small lakes, searching for ancient mills

As sweet as honey 24 Itinerary: Como, the cradle of italian rationalism

Cheese! 28 Itinerary: Delightful border pasturelands

A taste of the Province of Lecco 32

Lake avours… in the pan 38

Tastings and Sale 42

Where and how a product is made 44

How to get here/tourist information 46

Map of the province of Como 50 FOREWORD

PROVINCIA DI COMO

The area around Lake Como is famous and appreciated throughout the world for its artistic and monumental masterpieces, its charming landscapes, its fascinating lake and its quality manufactured goods, above all in the field of fashion and design.

However, not everyone is aware of Como’s agricultural products and the tradition, history and material culture they express.

Thanks to this guidebook, the Provincial Administration of Como aims to propose another way of enjoying a stay here, recommending food and wine itineraries during which to enjoy the area’s cultural and natural offer.

It is therefore an invitation to consider Lake Como not as a stopover, but as a tourist destination per se, to be enjoyed and savoured calmly, carefully and with inquisitiveness.

Don’t miss it!

Provincial Administration of Como

2 INTRODUCTION

Visiting any territory also means discovering its aromas and flavours through its cuisine and its food and wine specialities, in order to turn a journey into a sensory experience. Savouring local products and allowing yourselves to be seduced by the land and water that generated them is the experience this short guidebook to the flavours of Lake Como hopes to offer. Amid vines and olive groves, following the recommendations of those who have immortalized the world’s most beautiful lake in literature and poetry, we invite you to discover places that can offer a glimpse of times gone by, just a stone’s throw from the hectic pace of city life.

“…and be sure you don’t go with other boys to the lake to throw stones into the water, nor to watch them fish, nor to play with the nets hung up to dry....” advises Agnes in The Betrothed, hinting at the ability of these places to enchant visitors and make them lose all sense of time.

Spending a day on Lake Como, seeking out its most authentic culinary traditions, watching the sun set as its golden glow reflects on the waves and reawakening in the seductive light of the water, surrounded by villas and gardens that exude a 19th-century atmosphere is an amazing experience for anyone choosing Lombardy for a short break or a longer holiday.

3 A LAKE FULL OF

“On both sides were vineyards, WINE with vines still stretched between their supports; their leaves shone brightly, in various shades of red. Strips of freshly ploughed land showed up black and sharply among the whitish fields of stubble, which were glistening with dew.”. Grape growing in the area around (see the chapter on the Province of Lake Como and on the hills of Brianza Lecco), including the difficulty in- A. Manzoni has extremely ancient origins. Numer- volved in producing wine on terraced The Betrothed ous references are made to it in Roman and heavily sloping areas, the region’s texts, as well as during the Middle vine growing and wine producing his- Below: Ages and in the modern era. For cen- tory is confirmed by numerous docu- map of the main turies, these lands produced wines for ments that bear witness to the close production areas both local consumption and for the relationship between human factors wider market, particularly for Milan. and the quality and characteristics of It was however from the 19th century these wines. At present, the largest onwards that more vineyards in the province of Como LAKE COMO systematic and sci- are concentrated in the Upper Lake entific reference is area – where Domasino is favourably made to it, thanks influenced by the viticulture of the also to the work of nearby Valtellina area and is showing the Ampelographic strong signs of an upturn in interest Commission, which from grape growers – as well as on the left a detailed list of shores of Lake Lugano and the Olgiata

O I the dozens of grape Hills, thanks to favourable orographic LUGANO IO R ES A ER C L - O - varieties found lo- conditions and the influence of the vit- N A O G

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half of the 19th

century (including the famous Verdesa, a traditional local LECCO white variety). COMOC Despite produc- tion having come to somewhat of a standstill due to a number of reasons 4 THE LEGEND OF TEODOLINDA WINE Ancient Via Regina, parts. The people turned which according to tra- directly to the queen, who dition was built by Queen listened attentively to Teodolinda, even though their request. the first documents to call A while later, Teodolinda it by this name only date was widowed and chose back to 1335, was a road to remarry the Duke of that swept the entire west- Turin, Agilulfo, who im- ern shore of Lake Como mediately set out on a as far as Chiavenna. journey to the palace in Numerous legends ex- Monza with his entou- ist about Teodolinda, a rage. In line with tradi- queen who was much tion, when Teodolinda loved by her people. One met her future husband, Vineyards in the upper lake area of these narrates that in the queen offered him the 7th century AD an something to drink from edict of the then King of a precious sapphire gob- the Lombards forbade his let, after having taken a PRODUCT SHEET subjects to drink wine, sip herself. Agilulfo was grow vines or eat grapes. amazed; in fact, the gob- In 2008, the rediscovery of viti- The official drink was let did not contain Lom- culture in the Lario area led to the to be cervogia, a sort of bard cervogia, but wine. TGI (Typical Geographical Indica- bitter and aromatic beer He enjoyed the wine so tion) designation Terre Lariane. that was extraneous to much it was subsequently Although still a niche production, the traditions of these served on their wedding. cultivation now extends over a fairly large area that embraces the Provinces of Como and Lecco with two distinct zones; on the one hand, the viticulture of the Brianza area (above all, near Lec- co), which centres on the hills of Montevecchia where the majority of production is concentrated and where the protection consortium THE WINE OF DESIRE is based, and on the other, the viti- culture of the Upper Lake, which “Of the wines of Lombardy, I’d like to talk again about one in particular; Domasino white, produced in the is concentrated primarily on the Province of Como, in the upper part, in the north, on slopes of Domaso and neighbou- the right shore of the lake. I’d like to, but I can’t be- ring municipalities. Production cause it’s a wine that I don’t know as I have never guidelines cover both white and been to Domaso; I’ve only passed by, a few times, by red wine and permit the use of all car, under the rain, without ever stopping. My heart the varieties authorised in Lom- says I wouldn’t be betrayed. In the meantime, I like bardy. In recent years, it has pri- to think of Domasino just as that: as a wine of desire, marily been the white wines that that no wine could ever equal” (Mario Soldati – Vino al Vino (Wine to Wine), 1968).

have received most recognition. A LAKE OF FULL WINE THE  PRODUCT 5 A LAKE FULL OF WINE GRAVEDONA ED UNITI MAP LEGEND GRAVEDONA ED UNITI MAP LEGEND Itinerary Itinerary Departure Departure Arrival Arrival S. Maria del Tiglio S. Maria del Tiglio STAZZONA Palazzo Manzi and STAZZONA WWIIPalazzo Museum Manzi and TheWWII Crotti Museum in Stazzona The Crotti in Stazzona m o o m o Lecco o Como Lecco e C Como history of the Resistance on Lake Como k e C and the events that decreed the end of DONGO a k L a DONGO L Fascism. On leaving the museum, on the square dedicated to Giulio Paracchini and ITINERARY along the lake front, a series of posters narrate the events of those days and Itinerary: The Upper Lake area. indicate where the main events took place. Duration on foot (excluding stops): approx. 3h Walk along Via del Mercato to the town centre and 30min; by car: 30min. visit the small Romanesque Church of St Maria di Martinico, which is normally open. Return towards Our itinerary begins in Dongo, a tourist resort and Palazzo Manzi and cross the bridge over Albano industrial town in the upper Lario area, situated in River to the Franciscan Monastery of Madonna the plain formed by the mouth of Albano Torrent. delle Lacrime. About 50 metres further on, take It affords magnificent views of Mount Legnone Viale Mons. Bellesini that leads to the Parish Church and northern Grigna. Our first stop is Palazzo of St Stefano, which houses precious frescoes. Manzi, the seat of the town hall and where the Behind the church is the start of a beautiful walk that in just 50 minutes links Dongo to Gravedona (also accessible by wheelchair). Beyond Gravedona Lido, flank Liro Torrent, cross the bridge over the torrent and continue to the beautiful portico of the Parish Church of St Vincenzo and the Church of St Maria del Tiglio (see box), a masterpiece of local Romanesque style. After visiting the centre of Gravedona and its lakeside promenade, continue by car or on foot (1h 10min) to Stazzona, an ancient rural village at the mouth of Albano Valley. The name of the village derives from a Roman statio – a place where travellers could rest and change their horses Palazzo Manzi, Dongo – situated on the mountain road that passes through Germasino and Garzeno and leads to San Iorio men of the Resistance took the Duce and his Pass. Stop here for lunch or to try a tasting menu at power elite after their arrest on 27 April 1945, one of the traditional taverns known as crotti (see guaranteeing Dongo its place in Italian history. detail). Descend towards Dongo (45-min walk) A new immersive reality museum dedicated to for stunning views over the plain and the opposite the end of WWII 1943-1945 (see box) has been shores of the lake, towards the small lake of Piona inaugurated inside the building. It narrates the and its famous abbey. 6 ST MARIA DEL TIGLIO arms, it is the only wooden back in time to relive and try IN GRAVEDONA sculpture on Lake Como. to understand the events that meant the history of World A masterpiece of local War II intertwined with that of Romanesque style, the church MUSEUM OF THE END the inhabitants of Dongo was built in the 12th century on OF THE WAR IN DONGO (www.museofineguerradongo.it) an early-Christian baptistery of which traces remain in the To this day, climbing the square perimeter with three lakeside road that leads from THE CROTTI apses, the baptismal font Como to Dongo still takes IN STAZZONA and fragments of a mosaic visitors on the winding roads floor inside. The façade the German convoy drove Located in Avanzonico (515 features alternating grey along on 27 April 1945, with metres above sea level), and white stones (the latter Stazzona’s crotti are ancient from nearby Musso) and a cellars carved out of the rock, massive octagonal bell tower in which the temperature all that gives the building its year round is stable at about soaring, slender silhouette. 8°C. Since ancient times they Inside, the centrally planned have been used to store wine, church, with an open timber cold cuts and cheeses. vault, has two storeys; the Over time, some of them have lower one with three apses opened to the public and and the upper one featuring have been turned into taverns an elegant, open loggia. On where, especially on summer the left counter-façade, the weekends, it is possible to best preserved fresco is a eat something and sample 14th-century Last Judgement, some local wine. In August, but one of the church’s during the traditional “Crotti most important pieces is a Mussolini following close Festival” there are even wooden Crucifix probably behind. On that day, after more opportunities to enjoy a dating from the 12th century. their arrest the Duce and delicious day out Carved from a single piece his power elite were taken to (www.comune.stazzona.co.it). with the exception of the grand Palazzo Manzi, which now houses the Museum of the End of the War. On the square now named after Giulio Paracchini, a martyr of the Resistance, Mussolini was found on a German truck. A platoon of Partisans carried out the death sentence on the Fascists here, just after Mussolini himself had been executed by firing squad in Giulino di Mezzegra. The new Museum of the End of the

War offers visitors a journey A LAKE OF FULL WINE THE ITINERARY 

7 AS BEAUTIFUL AS A

“A number of FLOWER young girls (…) were busy laying out patterns of red, blue and yellow flowers on the ground in the streets where the procession was due to pass. But there was one spectacle which spoke more keenly to [his] soul…”.

Stendhal Along with animal husbandry, nursery mo, thanks to the presence of both rare gardening is one of the key agricul- and unusual botanical plants - inclu- The Charterhouse tural sectors in the province. Nursery ding exotic plants - and the harmony of Parma gardening on Lake Como first started of the design. Over time, numerous out by specializing in the cultivation nurseries have opened, specializing in of mulberry bushes, which led to the research, the composition of botanical Below: establishment of the textile industry species and the selection and cultiva- map of the main in Como, and is based on a tradition tion of new ornamental plants, bushes production areas rich in history and expertise. Suffice and trees. to look at the area’s landscape to re- Evidence of this lies in the presence alise how much this craft and at times here of one of Italy’s leading research this art, can impact LAKE COMO on and influence the entire territory and its community. The lush gardens of the sumptuous neoclassical villas created by the pre-

O cursors of nursery I LUGANO IO R ES A ER C L gardening laid the - O - N A O G foundations for a U M

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C E E K K sector that, to this centres in the sector, the Minoprio A A

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day, is unrivalled in Foundation, which is involved in re- the world in terms search, dissemination and advanced of professionalism educational activities. and expertise. The uniqueness and specialisation of LECCO These magnificent the sector in the Province of Como has COMOO examples of land- led the Lombardy Region to identify scape architecture the area as the heart of the Nursery bear witness to the Gardening District of Upper Lom- flair of the “green bardy, which also encompasses neigh- architects” of Co bouring provinces.

8 AS IN A FILM FLOWER In the collective ima- has reached every cor- gination, the gardens of ner of the world thanks the villas of the Lario also to some very famous area are romantic places films. These include Star par excellence. Wars, Episode II by “When you look at the George Lucas in which sky over Lake Como, it’s the terrace of Villa Bal- clear that God exists”, bianello is the backdrop commented actor Ro bin for one of the saga’s rare Williams, who filmed love scenes. The main here the opening scene soundtrack theme, which of the film What Dreams centres on this romantic May Come by Vincent moment, is Across the Gardens of Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo Ward, Oscar award win- Stars, a tune that pro- ner for special effects. vides the backdrop to the Over the past century, kiss between Anakin and PRODUCT SHEET Lake Como’s standing Padmé on the lake.

Over the years, using hybridi- zation techniques, the ower growers of the Como area have patiently produced new botanical varieties and rare species. These include a vast collection of aza- leas, rhododendrons and plants belonging to the acidophilic fam- ily in general. Evidence of this can be seen in the lush gardens of Villa Carlotta on The terrace of Villa Balbianello the shores of the lake in Tremezzo, a resort in the heart of Tremez- The hills and mountains of the Lario area have always zina. They are well worth visi- been of great naturalistic interest where it is possible to ting, particularly in April to enjoy find rare and protected botanical species. In 1763 the Padua-born scientist, naturalist and botanist Domenico them in full bloom. In the arbo real Vandelli, undertook an exploratory journey on Lake plants sector too, local nursery Como. Arriving at the Corni di Canzo (or Canzo’s gardening excels in the selection Horns) he was the first to discover and describe a and reproduction of a huge varie- small endemic and to that point, unknown plant. It ty of ornamental plants. was a “saxifraga with very closely joined smooth and It is easy to spot production awl-shaped leaves, a stem with almost no leaves and greenhouses and polytunnels, with many flowers” that the scholar illustrated with where purchases can be made, on great precision in his book Saggio d’istoria naturale the entire provincial territory. del Lago di Como e della Valsassina e altri luoghi Lombardi (Essay on the natural history of Lake Como, the Valsassina and other places in Lombardy); it was named saxifraga vandellii in his honour. AS BEAUTIFUL AS A FLOWER  THEAS BEAUTIFUL PRODUCT AS A FLOWER

9 AS BEAUTIFUL AS AFLOWER MOLTRASIO MAP LEGEND Boat Some of these jewels are open to the public; others Departure TORNO Departure can only be admired from o Arrival the water. To discover them, m CERNOBBIO o nothing could be better than C a boat ride, with stops in e BLEVIO k some of the small villages a overlooking the lake. L Climb aboard a boat in the harbour on Piazza Cavour Lecco in Como and settle down Como to enjoy the landscape of COMO the first basin. Beyond the fountain of Villa Geno, which stands opposite neo- ITINERARY classical Villa Olmo, the boat sets off towards the Itinerary: Discovering villages, villas and gar- left shore to Cernobbio, where we first come dens from the water. across elegant Villa Erba, with its conference and Duration by boat (excluding stops): approx. 1h exhibition centre. Formerly the home of Luchino Visconti, Villa Erba has been used as a location Lake Como is famous worldwide for its for many films, including Ocean’s Twelve starring splendid villas that, along with their parks and George Clooney, Brad Pitt and Julia Roberts. gardens, make it “a unique world in the world”. Beyond the jetty in Cernobbio is Villa d’Este, From spring to autumn, camellia, azalea, now one of the world’s most famous and luxurious hotels, popular with international VIP guests and stars and a venue for top-class conferences. Beyond the villa, annexes and garden, it is possible to glimpse the promontory of Pizzo and the villa of the same name, which owes its fame to its superb park. Just beyond it is Villa Fontanelle and a little further on, in a higher position, the white Villa Passalacqua, recognisable thanks to its beautiful terraced gardens and spectacular staircase. After leaving Moltrasio jetty we return to the opposite shore of the lake towards Torno. Some way off, standing in an isolated position, is the majestic Villa Pliniana, shrouded in charm and mystery, which features in many legends and many tragic and passionate events; it was also the setting of the film The Woman. The villa incorporates an intermittent source of water known to Pliny the Elder and Leonardo da Vinci. Villa Erba, Cernobbio Heading towards our stopover, is the park of Villa Mia that has been owned by the Saudi royal rhododendron, jasmine, oleander and magnolia family for many years. blossoms are reflected in its tranquil waters, Beyond the small harbour of Torno it is possible flooding the area with their scents and colours. to finally admire Villa Taverna, Villa Roccabruna 10 VILLA CARLOTTA nal Durini by incorporating an TREMEZZINA ancient monastery and is one of the most charming parts of Lake In 1690, in a basin between the Como. Adorned with a creeping lake and the mountains, marquis fig, the beautiful loggia offers Giorgio Clerici commissioned fantastic panoramic views span- an imposing, but sombre resi- ning over the central lake area dence with Italian gardens. Its from Bellagio to Comacina Is- next owner, Gian Battista Som- land. Unsurprisingly therefore, mariva, adorned it with works the villa has often been chosen of art and transformed part of as the setting for feature films the garden into a romantic park. – the most famous being Star In the mid-19th century the villa Wars and Casino Royale. On was given by princess Marianna the villa’s upper floor, which is of Nassau to her daughter Car- open for guided visits that can lotta as a wedding gift for her be booked when purchasing marriage to George II, Duke of the entrance ticket, there is an (now a luxury, 5-star hotel), Saxe-Meiningen. It was thanks unusual museum that brings to the latter, a botanical enthu- together the art collections and Villa Usuelli, Villa Da Riva, siast, that the landscape garden travel souvenirs of the owner, Villa Cademartori and the that has made the villa famous, the explorer Guido Monzino, unusual Villa Troubetzkoy, was created. Visitors can lose an enthusiast of expeditions which was built by a Russian themselves in the 70,000 sq m and a man of great culture. He prince based on the style of park, amid huge and presti- bequeathed the villa to FIA, the Nordic chalets. gious trees, rhododendrons and Italian Environment Fund, in However, the first basin is azaleas, ancient specimen of his will. The garden features ter- just a taster! The central lake camellias and exotic plants. To races and balustrades and faith- area awaits visitors with Villa complete the panorama of trea- fully follows the lie of the land, Carlotta, Villa Balbianello, Vil- sures is the interior of the villa which is craggy, steep and rocky la Melzi and Villa Monastero, with works of art on the ground in parts and more gently sloping all of which must be seen. floor, including magnificent in others. The villa can be visi- sculptures by Canova and his ted from mid-March through to For information on times and school, paintings by Hayez and mid-November. For more de- ticket costs: Wicar, a frieze by Thorwaldsen, tailed information visit the web- www.navigazionelaghi.it and carefully-preserved origi- site www.fondoambiente.it. nal furnishings on the first floor. Villa Carlotta is open every day from mid-March to mid-Novem- ber – www.villacarlotta.it. There are two picnic areas in its gardens, one of which is cove- red, as well as a cafeteria and a children’s games area.

VILLA BALBIANELLO TREMEZZINA

The villa was built at the end

of the 18th century for Cardi- THEAS ITINERARY BEAUTIFUL AS A FLOWER

11 AS SMOOTH AS

“One could then OIL imagine, stretched out before its windows, a broad expanse of lake, smiling villages, gardens bright with flowers (…) that part of the estate which faces south is green with olive trees, and its aspect speaks to the mildness of the winters.”. Though at a very high latitude and not of Origin (PDO) Laghi Lombardi, in the typical Mediterranean habitat, sub-designation Lario from the Euro- Antonio Fogazzaro the Como area has an ancient olive pean Union. The Woman growing tradition. This is thanks to its The production guidelines provide for particular microclimate that derives the manual harvesting of olives using Below: from the presence of the lake, which small mechanical tree shakers, usual- map of the main mitigates the rigid winter tempera- ly in the month of November (but in production areas tures, and the fertility of the soil that any case, no later than 15 January), is of moraine origin. and cold pressing within 3 days. This After settling in the Lario area follow- makes it possible to obtain excellent ing Julius Caesar’s quality oil with a very low level of LAKE COMO army (1st century acidity. The production zone includes BC), it was proba- 29 municipalities in the province of bly the Greeks who Como, situated along the western started the cultiva- shore of the Lario, in particular in the tion of olive trees so-called Zoca de l’Oli (or Oil Basin) and perfected the between Sala Comacina and Ossuc- stone mills used cio, in Tremezzina and in the Upper

O I to press the olives Lake area, in the Larian Triangle (be- LUGANO IO R ES A ER C L - O - and obtain the oil tween Bellagio and Oliveto Lario) N A O G

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Lombard court of (Porlezza and Valsolda).

Queen Teodolinda The varieties of olive tree used for (7th century AD) PDO production must consist of at first and the Bene- least 80% of the traditional varieties LECCO dictine and Cister- of Frantoio, Casaliva and Leccino. COMO cian monks later. Local olives are pressed at one of the In 1997 it obtained two mills on the lake; the more tra- the coveted recog- ditional one in Lenno on the Como nition of Protect- shore of the lake and the other in Bel- ed Designation lano, in the province of Lecco.

12 OIL AND TRADITIONS Culinary traditions also that in the end another of OIL bear witness to the his- our benefactors has pity torical presence of olive on the poor brother who trees on the lake. was doing the collecting The use of oil in many and gave the monastery typical local dishes, a donkey to help carry contrasts with the large the nuts. And they got so quantities of butter and much oil out of them, that lard more commonly all the poor people came used in Lombard cui- and took some, each ac- sine. In some recipes, cording to his need. oil is even drizzled over With the advent of the polenta. industrial era, the cul- Olive trees in Ossuccio In the past, as olive oil tivation of olive trees in and Comacina Island was costly and quite northern Italy was grad- rare, other vegetable oils ually replaced, in areas were used instead, such with a colder climate, PRODUCT SHEET as linseed, rapeseed or by more typical and re- walnut oil. Walnut oil, in sistant trees, but in these particular, is referred to particular parts of Lake PDO oil from the Lario area is a in an extract of The Be- Como it has never been top-quality extra-virgin olive oil trothed that recalls the abandoned and the ol- whose hallmark is very low acidity (less than 0.5%) and a series of ex- generosity of the monks: ive oil of the Lario area cellent quality parameters. (…) so many walnuts in is now a highly-coveted From an organoleptic point of view the ordinary collection niche product. it is a very balanced product – in fact, it has a light, fruity fragrance and aroma with a hint of almond and artichoke, a piquant note and sometimes, a slightly bitter taste. It is bright green in colour, ten- ding towards golden yellow. With regard to its nutritional proper- ties, the oleic acid content is high- er than 76% and it contains many substances with excellent antioxi- dant properties.

Olive grove in the Zoca de l’Oli AS SMOOTH AS OIL THE PRODUCT 

13 AS SMOOTH AS OIL MAP LEGENDLEGEND ItineraryItinerary Welcome to the so- Boat Boat called oil basin, the Departure Departure northernmost place Arrival Arrival in Italy where oli- LENNO Sacro Monte ve trees are culti- vated and olive oil is produced. We recommend a de-

OSSUCCIO lightful walk during which, surrounded Lecco Como by green fields and COMACINA ISLAND o m o old popular tradi- a k e C o m L a k tions, you can enjoy spectacular views ITINERARY of the lake and its small island. Easy Itinerary: Zoca de l’Oli and Comacina Island to reach from Como by boat, the jetty in Lenno Duration on foot (excluding anyoo visits and m is the departure point for our itinerary. From stops): approx. 1h 45 min. oo CC here, follow the beautiful lakeside road to the Tour of Comacina Island: approx. 1 hour ii d Church of St Stefano and the ancient octago- (excluding transfer by boat). d oo Public transport to the departureg point: nal baptistery. Rebuilt in the 15th century, the a by bus (www.asfautolinee.it),L church’s foundations stand on an ancient reli- by boat (www.navigazionelaghi.it). gious site, whilst the baptistery, dating from Public transport from the arrival point: the latter half of the 11th century, is a superb by bus (www.asfautolinee.it). example of local Romanesque style. From the square, cross the state road using the subway, turn right and after the p ost office turn into the lane on the left towards the Sanctuary of Bea- ta Vergine del Soccorso. At the “Cooperative”, continue for about 50 minutes before turning left. Pass in front of the Church of the Santis- sima Trinità, take Via Don Cadenazzi, follow it towards the right and then turn immediate- ly left into Viale Libronico. Continue straight on, then turn right at the second junction, following signs for the “Santuario” as far as cobbled Via Castelli. Continue along the road and cross Perlana Torrent to the first chapel. From here, continue along Sacro Monte climb, from chapel to chapel, to the sanctuary, about half an hour away. A centre of religious wor- ship for at least two thousand years this site exudes a sense of serenity, spirituality and Lenno, the jetty beauty. After visiting the church, retrace your

14 esque belltower. Maddalena, with itspictur beautiful Church ofStMaria Lidoandthe near Malagufi jetty forboatstotheisland on the rightthat leads to the CastelliViataking Andrea follow theGreenway by macina Island. In this case, October only –tovisitCo- Ossuccio or–fromMarchto decide tocontinuetowards Greenway). Hereyou can Lago diComo”(Lake Como ing thewords “Greenway del covers bear on the ground signs andby metalmanhole marked withblue andyellow no andGriante. The pathis links thevillagesofColon- Greenway, a10kmwalk that will begin toseesignsforthe the right. As thispoint,you cross Via Andrea Castellion about 600metresuntilyou Via Giovanni Castellifor From here,continuealong chapel.steps tothefourth - - nificent views. hard work isrewarded bymag- usually closed to the public, the the Perlana Valley. Although itis the unspoiltnatural beautyof to (11thcentury),immersed in manesque Abbey ofStBenedet - the sanctuaryleadstoRo- A demanding2-hourwalk from tage SitebyUNESCO in2003. cio was declared a World Heri- The Sacred MountainofOssuc- on thefeast dayof8September. particularly duringcelebrations destination for many pilgrims, nowadays thesanctuaryis the CampionesiMasters. Even lar veneration, is the work of which isthesubject of particu- Virgin withChild. The statue, coes aswell asa14th-century prestigious frescoes and stuc- the Beata Vergine, which houses The pathendsattheChurch of spread ofProtestant Reform. at thesametimetocontrast the and naturalistic elements,and spiritual, architectural, artistic to a wonderful intermingling of consolidation ofthefaiththanks favour, through pilgrimages, the Sacred Mountains was to landscape interest. The aimof valleys inplacesofparticular at theentrance tothe Alpine bardy, holy complexessituated Alps ofPiedmontandLom- Sacred Mountainsofthepre- are partofthecomplex between 1635and1714 these smalltempleswere built the Mysteries of the Rosary, Intelvesi School. Dedicatedto and stuccoesbyartistsofthe chapels decorated withstatues there are a seriesoffrescoed so (419metres above sealevel), ary ofBeata Vergine delSoccor gradually climbs totheSanctu- Along thecobbled street that THE SACRED MOUNTAIN - of only 2km)itwas once an metres wide, with a perimeter size (600metres longand200 Como anddespiteitsmodest This istheonly islandonLake COMACINA ISLAND tel. +390344.56369. For furtherinformation: logical itinerary oftheisland. for entrance tothearchaeo- is alsopossible tobuy tickets Museum inOssuccio, where it housed inthe Antiquarium geri. Many artefacts are now style in1940byarchitect Lin- for artistsbuilt inRationalist Giovanni andthree houses intact are theOratory ofSt The only buildings thatare of StEufemia (11thcentury). all, theRomanesquecomplex Christian baptisteryandabove of Romanwalls andanearly trious pastincluding remains It stillretains much ofitsillus- between thetwo capitalcities. Milan inthelong-runningwar as revenge for itsallegiance to inhabitants ofComoin1169 completely destroyed bythe to itsstrategic position,itwas Fought over many timesdue still bevisited. it isnow uninhabited, itcan and political site and although extremely importantreligious 15

AS SMOOTH AS OIL  THE ITINERARY PLENTY MORE

“...near lake (…), on FISH the shore of which I have a number of houses (…) From the second you can observe the fishermen, and from the first you can yourself fish, casting your line from your bedroom and virtually even from your bed as though from a small a boat.”.

Pliny the Younger At the beginning of the last century, in appreciated because it is healthy, it the municipality of Gera Lario alone does not impoverish the environment “Letters to family (a small village at the northernmost and it can fully claim to be a typical members” book 9, 7 tip of the lake) there were 53 pro- local product. fessional fishermen out of a total of Local fish is healthy because the wa- Below: 646 inhabitants. To this day, between ters it lives in are in good health: since map of the main Bellagio and Lezzeno, 19 fishermen the 1980s water quality has improved production areas still support their families thanks to constantly with particular benefit for their profession – the largest concen- the more demanding fish (lavaret, tration on the lake. This figure shows trout, char), which are now abundant the importance fish and could never live in polluted wa- LAKE COMO has always had in ters. the diets of all those The fishing method, using nets cast who live on the from boats in the evening and gathe- lake. red in the following morning, does Once an activity not impoverish the environment be- purely designed for cause it is carried out using scientific sustenance, carried criteria that guarantee sustainability.

O I out in order to pro- Unsurprisingly, the quantity of fish LUGANO IO R ES A ER C L - O - vide the indispensa- has been constant for years. N A O G

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was otherwise quite locally sourced fish in many small poor and not par- restaurants and in June, to see the ty- ticularly balanced, pical triangular perches on which fish LECCO in recent decades is placed to dry to prepare the local COMO lake fishing has had speciality missoltini. Nowadays, a resurgence and alongside traditional cuisine there now offers local are also other innovative specialities, restaurants a pro- created thanks to modern fish pro- duct that is hugely cessing techniques (see box). 16 LAKE FRAGRANCES… ON A PLATE FISH At the table, Lake Como’s fish can also surprise fish dishes are famous thanks to the variety of above all thanks to the flavours and preparation delicateness of rice with methods, some of which perch fillets, the gutsy belong to ancient local nature of missoltini with traditions (soused Medi- polenta and the balanced terranean shad, chub flavour of lavaret served pâté, stewed burbot), with a green herb sauce. whilst others are more These dishes feature on recent and due to the the menus of many re- growth of workshops spe- staurants, especially in cialising in the proces- summer when the lake sing and preparation of Professional shing is generous and fisher- lake fish products (spa- on Lake Mezzola men never return empty ghetti with lake fish roe, handed. fish-filled ravioli, lavaret For those who wish to Carpaccio, cro stini with PRODUCT SHEET try something new, lake smoked lavaret).

In terms of the quantity of sh caught and the goodness of its esh, the king of Lake Como is without doubt leveret. It was introduced into the lake in the mid-19th century precisely for the purpose of increasing consumption of sh and improving the quality of life of the shermen. A hundred and fty years later, it is clear that the operation has been hugely successful as lavaret can now always be found in professional shermen’s nets and really does represent their daily “TOC” bread. The place of honour rightfully In some restaurants in Bellagio, subject to pre- goes to the Mediterranean shad and booking (for a minimum of 10/15 people), it is perch, both popular in local cuisine possible to request the preparation of toc, a typical and shed along the entire shore of local polenta speciality flavoured with butter the lake. It is from the processing of and cheese and usually served with missoltini, this sh that missoltino, the typical boiled chicken with stuffing or local salami. The product par excellence of the Lario preparation of the dish is an ancient ritual that area, is created. Less common, but means diners must sit in a circle around a pot, each still popular with food lovers are with his or her own wooden spoon from which food the zander, burbot and arctic char. is lifted to the mouth by hand – hence the name toc The latter species, which is being or “to touch”. When the dish has been eaten and the caught in increasing numbers, is an pot is completely empty, it is reheated, adding red excellent indicator of the quality of wine, various liqueurs, cloves, pieces of fruit and the lake environment as it only lives sugar that are then cooked for another 30 minutes. in cold, well-oxygenated waters. The drink thus obtained, which is called ragell, is The presence of trout in the lake, then passed around to all diners as an after-dinner a predator with soft pinkish esh, liqueur to aid digestion. also shows the good health of the PLENTY MORE THE PRODUCT  FISH waters and graties even the most demanding palates. 17 PLENTY MOREFISH

VARENNA MAP LEGEND VARENNA MAP LEGEND is on Piazza della Itinerary Chiesa and is a fine o Itinerary o m Boat example of Lombard o m BoatDeparture Romanesque style. C o e Arrival Re turning back along C k Departure a BELLAGIO Via Garibaldi you e L k ArrivalSanctuary of cross the heart of a BELLAGIO Madonna L the village and at Sanctuarydel Ghisallo ofand Cycling Museum the end of the street Madonna is the famous Salita del Ghisallo and Serbelloni, lined with Lecco Cycling Museum shops and ancient Como walls. On the lakeside stand the ancient Lecco ham lets of Pescallo, Como San Giovanni and ITINERARY Loppia, with their tiny harbours and Itinerary: Bellagio to taste the gardens of their noble villas, including world- Duration by car (excluding stops): approx. 20min. famous Villa Melzi (whose splendid gardens can be By bicycle for sports tourism enthusiasts: visited from March to October). The other hamlets http://www.cicloviadeilaghi.it of Bellagio look down on the lake from the hillside, such as Villa Serbelloni with its park, or cling to the Bellagio, the pearl of the Lario, stands at the tip sides of Mount San Primo, up to 1,686 metres above of the promontory that divides the two branches of sea level. From here, amazing panoramic views Lake Como. This enchanting position, its superb span from the Alps to the Po Valley. Let yourselves villas and small houses clinging to one another, its be enchanted by this hamlet by walking around lush vegetation and its mild climate have made it its narrow streets and climbing its staircases, a popular destination for many illustrious figures along with tourists from all over the world. Here including Pliny the Younger, Stendhal, Manzoni, the mild climate, similar to that of the Riviera of Parini, Liszt and Toscanini. Liguria, means it is possible to grow bay leaves, olives, palm trees and tropical plants that adorn all the gardens. The waters in front of Bellagio are particularly clean and clear and the beaches have won numerous awards. From Bellagio it is possible to take a boat ride to Varenna on the Lecco branch, another splendid jewel of Lake Como. If you are travelling by car, leave Bellagio heading towards Lecco and at the roundabout follow signs for Asso-Erba Ghisallo to admire the views from above. Just beyond the cemetery there are splendid views of the eastern branch of the lake Bellagio, panoramic view and a magnificent expanse of olive trees that stand within the Villa Giulia estate. Continuing along the The town is divided into 24 small hamlets that all offer road, climb up to 754 metres above sea level to the top differing, but equally spectacular panoramic views. of Colle del Ghisallo and stop at the small Sanctuary The most famous of these is Borgo that huddles of Madonna del Ghisallo, the patron saint of cyclists, around its landing berth and boasts staircases, and the adjacent Cycling Museum. Traditionally, small squares, artisan workshops and restaurants this steep climb is tackled by cyclists in the Giro di where visitors can enjoy traditional fish dishes. The Lombardia race and has been included in the route of Basilica of St Giacomo, patron saint of Bellagio, the Giro d’Italia on several occasions.

18 VILLA MELZI Dante’s Sonata. The garden except Monday. can be visited from the end of For info and bookings: Con le sue semplici e severe March to early November. Promobellagio With its simple and severe neo- Tel./Fax +39 031.951555 classical lines, Villa Melzi was For information: www.promobellagio.it designed by the architect Gio- www.giardinidivillamelzi.it condo Albertolli in 1808, based SANCTUARY on a commission by Francesco VILLA SERBELLONI OF MADONNA Melzi d’Eril, vice-president of DEL GHISALLO the Napoleonic Italian Repu- Villa Serbelloni is situated on blic. The park surrounding it, the promontory of Bellagio in At the top of the deman ding the first example of an English a splendid panoramic position Salita del Ghisallo, a key garden on Lake Como, was stage on many Giro d’Italia built with great attention to and Giro di Lombardia cycle detail by levelling the land or races, this tiny church hou- creating small hillocks, with ses many mementos of cycling the aim of making the area champions – the bicycles used seem larger than it really is. by Bartali, Coppi and Merckx The distribution of vegetation in their victorious Tour de was the culmination of care- France races, the special bi- fully thought-out studies, de- cycle used by Moser for his signed to increase the optical world hour record and many illusion. Among the garden’s pink, yellow and World Cham- trees and flowers there are also pionship jerseys. interesting sculptures, a small overlooking the two branches By the 1990s there were so lake filled with water lilies, an of Lake Como and Lecco. The many of these keepsakes that orangery that houses a muse- villa has an ancient history; they could no longer fit in the um and the neoclassical family the property of the Sfondrati small church and so the Cy- chapel. Stendhal wrote exten- family since 1533, in 1788 it cling Museum was designed sively about the villa, whilst passed to the estate of Count and built adjacent to the sanc- the pianist and composer Franz Alessandro Serbelloni whose tuary. Liszt loved to spend time in its main interest focused on the park and in particular, in its immense park that visitors For information: Moorish gazebo overlooking can now walk through to [email protected] the lake where he composed discover ancient, exotic and www.museodelghisallo.it. Après une Lecture de Dante: rare trees, sculptures and the Fantasia quasi Sonata or ruins of mediaeval buildings. In 1907 it was sold to a Swiss company that turned it into Hotel Serbelloni The hotel was purchased by Princess Ella Walker, who in 1959 bequeathed it to the Rockefeller Foundation. To- day Villa Serbelloni is a place for scholars to meet and stay. Its park can be visited from March through to November,

with guided visits every day PLENTY MORE THE ITINERARY  FISH

19 AS GOOD AS...BREAD “I will celebrate with verse The lively and agile farmers Dotted around the fields And the tireless arms Behind the wheat that ripens”.

Giuseppe Parini The Odes The cultivation of cereal crops was crunchy crust. and still is common on the plains and Traditionally in the Como area and hills of Como, as is testified by the Lombardy in general, corn flour is presence of water mills for grinding used to prepare polenta, which is fla- the grain (for example along the Lam- voured with cheese from the valleys, Below: bro River in Merone, on the Seveso butter or simply accompanied by map of the main River in Fino Mornasco and along the milk. Nowadays, it is also served with production areas Lanza and Faloppia Torrents). meat, game and the famous missoltini In the past, to make bread, use was (see the box in the section dedicated made not only of wheat (white bread, to fish). In past centuries, the skilled only for the wealt- use of poor ingredients, mixed toge- Meascia (sweet or salty), hier families), but ther in a balanced manner, a feature LAKE COMO Mataloch also of corn (yel- so characteristic of local cuisine, low bread), millet played its part in saving the popula- (so-called pan de tion from illnesses typically linked to Braschin mej), rye, oats, famine, such as pellagra, which were barley and other instead rife in the Veneto and the Po lesser cereals. The River Valley. most popular white The typical produce of the moun- O I LUGANO IO R Mataloch ES A breads, whose his- tain zones is chestnuts and many ER C L - O - N A O G tory dates back to traditional dishes use them – either

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Nocciolini domination, are the preparation of cakes, fresh pasta, di Canzo the michetta and polenta and focaccia bread. More re- rosetta loaves, two cently, chestnuts have also been used Resta LECCO so-called “puffed” in the production of beer. Thanks to COMOCOMO Masigott bread that is com- the ease in working it and its natural pletely hollow in- resistance to atmospheric agents, it is side and whose also traditional to use chestnut wood consistency is given in the construction industry, for ex- solely by its crisp, ample for poles. Pan Meino and Cutizza are produced on the entire provincial territory COMO’S “CIABATTA” BREAD In the 1970s, thanks to used. This lends itself the creativity of bakers to longer proving and from the Como area, a the final result is more completely new product fragrant. It is this latter became popular; it was version that has become called ciabatta. It is said popular throughout Italy that it was from this very and indeed worldwide. recipe that the guide- lines registered in 1982 in Adria in the Province of Rovigo, under the name ciabatta polesana, draw inspiration. Unlike Agricoltural land in Guanzate Como’s ciabatta, which was created to meet the need to reuse leftovers PRODUCT SHEET from “puffed” breads by “refreshing” them with water, for the so-called Of all the “homemade” cakes, the polesana ciabatta “type Mill on the one that stands out is cutizza (also Lanza river known as paraa), a fried focaccia 1 Italia” whole flour is made using the little white our once available, sugar and milk. Sometimes also containing apples, it was served as a snack or dessert. To prepare bread, on the other hand, ours made using poorer cereals, such as corn, were used. White and yellow ours are used to make typical and traditional cakes such as braschin, masigott, pan mei- no (or pan de mej), either sweet or savoury meascia, nocciolini di Canzo and resta, all of which are recognised Pan de Mej by the Lombardy Region as “tradi- tional food products”. Made using millet flour (or mej) and corn flour, pan Meascia (or miascia), known also de mej (or pan meino) is a soft sweet bread whose as turta di paisan, is a traditional hallmark is the scent of dried elderflowers, which cake of the mountain regions of the are sprinkled over its surface. western Upper Lario area, which Still prepared by many pastry chefs to this day, this is also considered a poor dish. It is typical Lombard cake was once only made on 23 prepared using a base of stale bread April to mark the feast of Saint George, the patron that is kneaded together with white saint of dairy farmers. or yellow our, with the addition of fresh or dried fruit. Numerous local After signing their annual milk contracts, the and family versions exist. families of dairy farmers and farmers in general In the patisseries of Canzo visitors celebrated these new agreements by eating pan will nd a large selection of typical meino soaked in fresh cream. nocciolini, small, crumbly hemi- AS GOOD BREAD THE PRODUCT  AS... spherical biscuits similar to amaretti, 21 but made using hazelnuts. AS GOOD AS...BREAD o m MAP LEGEND o o

mC MAP LEGENDItinerary We descend now

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towards Canzo,

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e NESSO Departure

k a holiday resort CARENO e a NESSO Departure with beautiful sto- L k POGNANA Arrival FACARENOGGETO a CANZO res and elegant TOL RNOPOGNANA LECCO ArrivalMonumental FAGGETO patisseries, ideal BLEVIO CANZO complex of TORNO LECCO Monumental Lake Galliano (Cantù) for a stop to taste BLEVIO ERBA Annone complex of Lake Pusiano Lake some delicious Lake Galliano (Cantù) COMO ERBA MERONE Annone Alserio nocciolini. Lake Pusiano COMO Lake Alserio MERONE A kilometre south Lecco of the village is Como Lecco Lake Segrino, a Como CANTÙ small lake in the CANTÙ Pre-Alps that is suitable for ITINERARY swimming. It is flanked by a 5-km Itinerary: From the lake to the small lakes, sear- cycle and foot path and has a few free beaches as ching for ancient mills well as a lido, where an entrance fee is payable. Duration by car: approx. 2h 30m (excluding stops Continuing along the lake, we head towards Pusiano, and visits) where we find the largest of Brianza’s lakes. The lake offers one of the most beautiful natural spectacles We depart from Como and head towards Bellagio of the entire Brianza area and can be enjoyed from to Blevio, Torno, Careno and Nesso, delightful above by climbing Mount Cornizzolo (1,240 metres hamlets with small, colourful harbours situated on above sea level) or from the still unspoilt shores. the eastern shore of the Como branch of the lake Lake Pusiano is the only lake in Brianza to have an island. If you wish to admire its beauty and charm from the water, the best place to do so is on board the electric boat Vago Eupili, with excursions running from April to October departing from Bosisio Parini (info: www.prolocobosisio.it). In this area, dotted with so many waterways, as Giuseppe Parini recalls in his Odes, ancient agricultural trades flourished. It is therefore worth making a detour to Merone, a small industrial town situated between the two small lakes of Pusiano and Alserio and crossed by Mill in Baggero the River Lambro. Along the river there were once over 40 mills with more than 240 millstones, which that are all well worth visiting. From Nesso – where were used to produce flour and oil. In the charming we will find Orrido, a waterfall that drops into a tall village of Baggero, which stands in a 8-hectare oasis and narrow gorge that divides the village in two in the Lambro Valley Park, there are still four mills – we divert towards the plateau of Tivano where (former oil mill and press) with a system of four metal we can stop for a while and enjoy some traditional wheels and bulkheads that are still in working order polenta dishes. We cross the entire upland, which (for information: www.parcovallelambro.it). Before stands 900 metres above sea level, and on the peak returning to Como, we continue to the city of Cantù, of Sormano, is an observatory run by the Brianza famous for its furniture and lace production, where Astronomy Group (for opening times to the public: the spectacular monumental complex of Galliano www.osservatoriosormano.it). stands in Via S. Vincenzo (see box). 22 VILLA PLINIANA IN TORNO BASILICA OF built in the 11th century. It ST VINCENZO is preceded by a pronaos and Built at the end of the 16th AND BAPTISTERY topped by an octagonal lan- century for the Spanish gover- OF ST GIOVANNI tern. Inside, the baptismal nor of Como, Anguissola, the IN GALLIANO (CANTÙ) font was carved out of a large imposing Villa Pliniana incor- millstone dating from the Ro- porates an intermittent foun- The architectural complex of man period. tain called Pluviana, which Galliano, which consists in was already well-known to the Basilica of St Vincenzo THE SMALL LAKES natural history lovers such as and the Baptistery of St Gio- OF THE ARTIST Pliny the Elder and Leonardo vanni, occupies a key place in da Vinci. After crossing the the artistic artefacts of Lom- Giovanni Segantini, one of subsoil and passing under the bard Romanesque style. Ac- the leading exponents of Ita- villa, the torrent drops into lian divisionism, whose work the lake from a lancet arch can be found in some of the that skims the surface of the world’s top museums, set- water. Shrouded in mystery tled in Pusiano from 1880 to and charm the villa features 1885 to work in direct contact in many at times passionate, with nature and his research at times tragic legends and on light led him to paint nu- events. merous rural landscapes and Thanks to its dark and mys- scenes. terious atmosphere, in 1942 The water environments of the Mario Soldati chose it as the small lakes of Brianza (Lake setting for his film The Woman, Segrino, Lake Pusiano and which is based on the novel Lake Annone in particular), of the same name by Antonio horses at the ford, fishing Fogazzaro. Indeed, Fogazzaro boats and dawns and sunsets, himself visited the villa and which inspired one of his most was struck by its brooding at- cording to legend, the basilica important works “Ave Maria mosphere that is said to have was built on the ruins of an a trasbordo”, still offer the inspired the novel, which is ancient pagan temple around same charm to this day. set in an unspecified place. the 6th century AD. However, the first confirmed documen- tation of the church’s exist- ence regards its consecration in its current form, which took place in the 11th century when its custo dian was Heribert of Intimiano. We have him to thank for the series of frescoes on the walls of the central nave that represent one of the best pictorial cycles from the period found in northern Italy. Situated to the right of the Lake Segrino

church, the baptistery was AS GOOD BREAD THE ITINERARY  AS...

23 AS SWEET AS

“(The bees) collect honey HONEY that is extremely sweet, delicate and extremely wholesome, forming their combs and collecting wax, useful for thousands of purposes in daily life, they are patient of fatigue, toil at their labours (…) well aware that they are about to form what will prove to be an object of desire. As cave paintings prove, the history or woodland, mixed flowers, high of beekeeping in Europe has ancient mountain, raspberry, rhododendron Pliny the Elder origins (since about 7000 BC). Howe- and tree-of-heaven. Natural History ver, few people know that it was an Evidence that beekeeping is close- illustrious figure from the Como area, ly linked to local culinary traditions Pliny the Elder, who carried out one is clear in the use made of honey in of the first studies on the world of popular confectionery products, in bees and the production of honey. particular in the preparation of some Pliny the Elder, who was born in 23 cakes such as mataloch, a typical AD in Como, was a Latin author and sweet bread from the central and up- one of the leading interdisciplinary per Lario area, and in some versions academics of ancient times. of resta (or resca in local dialect) and Given the different nectar-producing pasquale, a traditional cake of the city botanical species of Como (see box). The presence of (both spontane- healthy bee hives is also thanks to the ous and cultiva- quality of the environment as bees are ted) present in the an extraordinary biological indicator. Como area the It is also thanks to their tireless polli- types of honey nation work that Lake Como has such produced in the a rich biodiversity. Lario area are aca- cia or false acacia (common in the plains and on the hills), chestnut (above all on the mountains of the Larian Triangle, the Intelvi Valley and the central and upper Lario), lime, honeydew

24 RESTA AND MATALOCH HONEY Butter, sugar, lemon Today, it can be found zest, raisins and can- in pastry shops all year died fruit are just some round. of the ingredients of Mataloch on the other resta (or resca in the di- hand is a cake typical alect of Como), the tra- of the central and up- ditional cake of Como per lake area. It too is that was once only pre- an elongated type of pared on Palm Sunday. panettone flavoured A small olive branch with aniseed, thanks to used to be added to the the use of fennel flow- batter mixture, which in ers. Its origins appear some recipes also in- to date back to the peri- cludes the use of honey. od of Spanish domina- The word resca (which tion. The batter is full in local dialect means of ingredients (sultan- PRODUCT SHEET fish bone), as well as as, candied citron and incisions in the shape orange peel, walnuts, of a spike on the sur- hazelnuts and dried The various types of honey pro- face, appear to refer to figs, as well as honey) duced can have quite marked dif- ferences in terms of colour and some of the classic sym- that may vary depend- fragrance (ranging from the very bols of spring rebirth. ing on where it is made. light, clear colour of false acacia honey, to the very dark colour and bitter notes of chestnut honey), due also to their dierent nectar component (the denomination only indicates the primary oral species) With the exception of false acacia, Resta the other types of honey tend to crystallize over time as they are not subjected to stabilizing heat treatments (pasteurisation). As well as honey, bees make other products with excellent nutrition- al and therapeutic properties, including propolis, pollen, bees- wax, honeydew. Local honey is also used to prepare jams, mar- malades and almond and hazelnut cakes and desserts. The majority of Larian beekeepers practice the technique of nomadism, in other words they move their hives to where the various nectar-produc-

ing plants blossom. AS SWEET AS HONEY THE PRODUCT  25 AS SWEET AS HONEY L a k e C o m MAP LEGEND L o a k e C o m MAP LEGEND AEROCLUB 1 o Itinerary 1 Itinerary AEROCLUB 2 Departure 3 Departure 3 2 4 Arrival CATHEDRAL4 Arrival CATHEDRAL Italian Rationalism Itinerary: S. FEDELE Italian1 Monument Rationalism to the Itinerary: Fallen and Canottieri Lario S. FEDELE CIVIC ART GALLERY 12 Monument Novo Comum to the and Fallen public and swimming Canottieri pool Lario CIVIC ART GALLERY 23 Novo Casa Comum Giuliani and Frigerio public swimming pool 5 3 Casa Giuliani Frigerio 5 4 Ex Casa del Fascio 45 Ex Covered Casa del Market Fascio 56 Covered Sant’Elia Market Nursery School S. ABBONDIO 6 Sant’Elia Nursery School S. ABBONDIO Lecco Other points of interest along the way Como Lecco Other points of interest along the way Como

6 6 ITINERARY

Itinerary: Como, the cradle of Italian Rationalism Sant’Elia Nursery School (see boxes for more Duration on foot: approx. 1h 15m (excluding time detail). for visits) We head to Via Mentana where we find Casa Cattaneo Alchieri (at no. 25), by the Rationalist Como, the main town of the province of the same architect Pietro Lingeri. We recommend stopping name, is also the “capital” of its lake, which it at the covered market, which was built during overlooks, surrounded by gently-sloping hills. With the same period by the Milanese engineer Mario its cathedral and mediaeval walls, the Romanesque Levacher. basilicas of St Fedele, St Carpoforo and St Abbondio His pseudo-monumental architecture, so typical of and its villas, parks and gardens it is a city that the Fascist period, can be compared to Rationalist deserves more than a one-day visit. The website architecture. Levacher won a competition to design www.lakecomo.it is full of suggestions for your the market amid considerable controversy and it stay. Don’t miss the old town centre with its squares was heavily criticized precisely due to its excessive and lively narrow streets where you can enjoy monumentality, which was considered obsolete. refreshments or go shopping, the splendid Villa Amongst others, a design by the Terragni brothers Olmo, the funicular railway for Brunate from which was rejected. to enjoy the views, a boat ride, a visit to the hangar The producers’ pavilion is today the seat of Como (home to the world’s oldest flying boat organisation Farmers’ Market (on page 42) where you’ll find and flying boat school) and a walk in Spina Verde Lario honey, missoltini, cheeses and bread for sale, Park where Baradello tower stands (1158). along with all the other typical local food products. Como was the birthplace and home of Pliny the Elder, Pliny the Younger, Pope Innocent XI and Alessandro Volta and in more recent times, Antonio Sant’Elia (Futurist) and Giuseppe Terragni (Rationalist), world famous early 20th century architects. We recommend a walk around the city to discover some of the most splendid examples of Italian Rationalism. We begin with the Monument to the Fallen (see box) and continue as indicated on the map, which will lead us from the Novocomum to the Casa del Fascio and then the Municipal Art Gallery and A view of Como

26 THE RATIONALIST a splendid location near the ci- QUARTER ty’s cultural and religious pole. Classic elements are reinter- Tra gli anni venti e gli anni In preted in a personal and Ratio- the 1920s and 30s, the city of nalist key with the use of glass Como was in great ferment: a and concrete for the supporting group of young architects from structure, four different façad- Milan Polytechnic began con- es and a modern loggia on the structing buildings and mo- front. Terragni left nothing to numents that had never been chance, personally designing seen before. The Monument to the walls, handles, skirting the Fallen, the starting point boards, floors, fixtures, lamps, for our itinerary around the Como, tables and desks. The interior city that is the symbol of Ita- Monument to the Fallen can be visited subject to autho- lian Rationalism, was designed risation being granted by the pool – and, returning towards by the brothers Giuseppe and Provincial Headquarters of the the Monument to the Fallen, Attilio Terragni who, following Financial Police. the seat of the Canottieri Lario, an order by the prefect, had to Still an infants’ school to this both designed by Gianni Man- comply with a sketch by archi- day, the Sant’Elia Nursery tero a few years later. tect Sant’Elia. Despite the “Fu- School is situated on a single In Viale Masia, opposite Cor- turist” imposition, the work of floor and features huge win- ridoni Primary School, we find cleaning the façade ornaments dows that connect it to the exte- Casa Giuliani-Frigerio, the last present in the sketch and the rior. Open to nature and at the building designed by Giuseppe possibility of free expressive same time protected from traf- Terragni. capacity inside the monument fic, this small school has two meant that, once completed, wings, which house the clas- Giuseppe Terragni was able to THE FORMER srooms and various service ro- recognise the piece as “deci- CASA DEL FASCIO oms. Inside, a protected garden dedly Rationalist”. In the same AND THE SANT’ELIA guarantees a connection with quarter, in Viale Sinigaglia, we NURSERY SCHOOL the lush greenery, sun and light can admire the Novocomum, a outside, elements that Terragni residential building in whose The cornerstone of modern considered fundamental for all layout it is possible to identify architecture, Como’s former human beings. the principles of Rationali- Casa del Fascio (which now For visits inside: sm: a parallelepiped with two houses the offices of the Finan- [email protected] C-shaped lateral wings, where cial Police) was designed in Per visite all’interno: the architect worked on the ju- 1932 by Giuseppe Terragni in [email protected] xtaposition of full spaces and voids. To understand the inno- Former Casa del Fascio, Como vative reach of the project, we cannot overlook the period in which these buildings were con- structed. Nicknamed the “tran- satlantic” due to its unusual shape, the Novocomum caused such uproar that the traditiona- lists called for it to be demoli- shed.In the same street we can admire the former Casa Balil- la – which is now a municipal AS SWEET AS HONEY THE ITINERARY  27 “But in spite of CHEESE! these and other economies (…), in spite of gifts of curds, of mascherpa, of goats’ cheese, of chestnuts and walnuts that were always pouring from the townsfolk, Luisa could not make ends meet”.

Antonio Fogazzaro Cheese making is the most important lected over time by the mild and tempe- The Little World and most common activity for farms in rate climate, sunny slopes that are never of the Past the Como area, especially in the moun- too cold, moist and fertile soils that are tain zones. Both fresh and mature che- slightly inclined and altitudes that are eses are made using cows’ milk, goats’ never too high. Below: milk and a combination of both. Cows’ Thanks to these favourable conditions, map of the main milk cheeses include typical Semuda, over the centuries, the practice of taking production areas magro di Bellagio, Lariano di latteria animals to mountain pastures has beco- and Lariano di alpeggio, whilst goat’s me increasingly popular among small cheeses include Lariano di capra (both local communities that, as a result, have fresh and mature) selected autochthonous cow and goat LAKE COMO Semuda and goat cheese breeds and chosen dairy and cheese-ma- Zincarlin obtained with lactic king techniques that are deeply rooted and presamic coagu- in the food traditions and habits of their lation (particularly lands of origin. famous is Caprino In the autumn-winter period and in early di Caslino d’Erba). spring, milk was given to the rotational Zincarlin, Mixed milk cheeses dairies present in many villages. Today, Casoretta include delicious many farmers have opened their own

O I LUGANO IO R Zincarlin, made small cheese-making factories, where ES A ER C L - O - N from whey or ricotta they sell direct to the public, or have A O G

U M

L O

C E E with the addition of taken over running former dairies (for K K Typical Stracchino

A A

L L

aromatic herbs and example, in San Fedele Intelvi, Cerano Formaggella di Caglio pepper. Intelvi and Laino) whilst some former The mountain pastu- dairies house museums dedicated to far- res of the Lario area ming civilisations (Ethnographic Milk LECCO COMO boast great quality Museum in Carlazzo and Museum of Magro, and variety in terms the Valley in Cavargna). There are still Caprino of composition of some cooperative dairies in Bellagio di Caslino vegetation and flora, (Latteria Sociale di Bellagio) and in which have been se- Dongo (Latteria Alto Lario).

Lariano d’Alpeggio is produced in the entire provincial territory using cow’s milk cheese, Lariano di latteria, Zincarlin and Ricotta del Lario (also known as Mascherpa) are produced on the entire provincial territory. Polenta uncia (or “gre- melted butter, as well as asy” polenta) is a typi- garlic and sage, and ser- cal dish of the Province ved piping hot. of Como whose original It can be enjoyed in some recipe calls for the use of typical restaurants and semüda cheese. above all, in some of the The cheese is cut into area’s mountain refuges cubes and added to the or huts. It is a rich dish polenta, after it has been and a complete meal that cooked in a copper pan. can be served with mixed Everything is then fla- grilled meats or a platter voured with abundant of local cold cuts.

Cows grazing in Val d’Intelvi

PRODUCT SHEET

Semüda is made from unpasteurised skimmed cow’s milk, rennet and salt. Its shape is usually cylindrical (average diameter 20-30 cm), with a maximum height of 8 cm and a weight of 2 - 4 kilograms. The cheese has an uneven scattering of holes and a soft consistency. Its colour varies from straw yellow to light green. The cheese is matured in natural caves called “crotti” or in cellars, for a period of Lariano d’Alpeggio cheese between 40 days and 18 months. in summer and 50-60 days in winter. Lariano d’alpeggio is a semi-hard Lariano di capra is the name given cheese with sometimes many or to either fresh and mature cheeses sometimes fewer tiny holes, depending obtained with lactic or presamic on the milk enzymes typical of each coagulation. As well as containing valley. It is made using full fat or semi- goats’ milk, rennet and salt, they can be skimmed milk, salt and natural rennet avoured with herbs, pepper, various and can contain up to 30% goats’ milk. spices and garlic. It is matured on average for 40-45 days Zincarlin, which has a characteristic Zincarlin cheese spherical or truncated cone-shapes, is made using an acidic rennet or ricotta with the addition of salt and pepper. It may also contain herbs, various spices and garlic. The typical fresh goats’ cheeses known as furmagitt de cavra are also obtained thanks to the farming of goats, which adapt well to the pastures of the

mountains of the Lario. CHEESE!  THE PRODUCT 29 CHEESE! MAMAP LEGENDP LEGEND ItineraryItinerary Contraband goods, stacked into huge VAVALSOLDALSOLDA PORLEZZAPORLEZZA CableCable car car sacks called bricolle, found their way s s

s

s DepartureDeparture clandestinely over the most impervious i

i w

w ga an no o ArrivalArrival mountain paths, carried on the shoulders S g

S uL u k ek eL of the so-called spalloni. The Small L aL a Museum of the Financial Police and of

LANZO LANZO INTE INTELVLVI I Contraband in Erbonne (S. Fedele Intelvi) PELLIOPELLIO INTE INTELVLVI I is a collection of items and artefacts from S. S.FEDELE FEDELE I. I. that time. PIGRA PIGRA The area offers numerous opportunities o o for trekking on the gentle slopes and in m m LeccoLecco y o o a al l y C C ComoComo the cool woods so plentiful in this area on I tI t ARGEGNOARGEGNO e e k the border between Italy and Switzerland. k

a

a L L The website www.lariointelvese.it is full of suggestions and itineraries. ITINERARY Of the numerous possible attractions, we recommend a trip to Pigra, a small Itinerary: In the delightful border pasturelands mountain village (900 above sea level), which Duration by car (excluding visits, stops and cable stands in a green plateau that offers spectacular car to Pigra): approx. 1h 45min. views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We begin in Argegno, a delightful little town on the The cool and sunny Intelvi Valley, delimited by shores of the lake, which can be reached by boat Lake Como and Lake Lugano, is the ideal holiday or by car. The cable car, on the provincial road just resort for those who love nature and mountain outside the village, was inaugurated in 1971 and sports. The territory boasts alpine mountain links the town to the hamlet of Pigra in about five pastures where animals graze freely on typical minutes. From here, visitors can enjoy splendid herbs and flowers that give the excellent cheeses views of the lake and surrounding mountains. produced in this valley great flavour and beneficial Pigra is also an excellent departure point for properties. wonderful excursions to discover where mountain Here, in the past, to combat poverty, as well as cheeses are produced in the Intelvi Valley. farming the population turned to trafficking. Back in Argegno, we continue by car towards S. Fedele Intelvi. The extremely winding road climbs steeply before opening out onto vast and sunny plains surrounded by chestnut woods. The valley boasts numerous restaurants and inns where you can stop to taste some local produce or enjoy lunch. After Dizzasco we continue as far as Castiglione, San Fedele, Pellio and Lanzo, tiny villages just waiting to be discovered. Finally we reach the hamlet of Scaria, an ancient village well worth visiting, in particular the late Baroque Church of St Maria di Scaria, brimming with frescoes, statues and reliefs and one of the finest examples of late Baroque style in Europe. A few minutes’ walk away is the beautiful Church of St Nazaro and St Celso. From Pellio we can descend along the SP 14 towards the shores of Lake Lugano, with beautiful views of the village of Osteno. 30 and 18thcenturies,theIntelve- but allover Europe. Inthe17th sioned towork notonly inItaly, These familieswere commis- them thetitleof “masters”. turies andwhose talentearned through thegenerations for cen- whose craft was handeddown tors, artistsandstuccoworkers ter masons,stonecutters, sculp- and talentofitsartisans:mas- Valley was famous for the skill Since ancienttimes,theIntelvi THE INTELVESI MASTERS Fogazzaro. by the masterpiece Antonio novel Little World of the Past, that arethebackdropfor the borderwithSwitzerland, municipality of Valsolda, on as theoutlying hamletsof the it is possible to continue as far aboveGerman all. From here with theDutch,Swissand Porlezza, popular aresort We now flankthevillageof Church ofSt diScaria Maria cursions are organised tolisten September, when nocturnal ex- dic-looking landscapes, andin over andthe snow designs Nor in winter, when itssurfaceices Lake isparticularly attractive visits atany timeofyear, Piano populate thereserve. Idealfor and over 100 speciesofbirds frogs andsalamanders, fish foxes andsquirrels, aswell as fauna; roe deer, deer, badgers, ronment boastsawealth ofwild the European Union. The envi- of CommunityImportanceby gion andisrecognised asaSite protected bytheLombardy Re- is partofthecomplexareas The PianoLakeNature Reserve PIANO LAKERESERVE booking: Tel. +393487930214 which canbevisitedsubjectto la MuseuminCerano Intelvi, and intheStuccoScaglio- numerous churches inthevalley of thisprocess canbefound in vegetable pigments.Examples andmineraluse ofgypsum and imitates inlaid marbles with the ter isanartistictechnique that of stuccoandscagliola. The lat- ticular intheplasticdecoration si Masters were famousinpar - - guided visits. guided visits. an interesting programme of tourists and school groups with ganised visitorcentre welcome An eco-museumandwell-or mating season. to thecallofdeerduring tion: www.fondoambiente.it). visited onrequest (for informa - Environment Fund,andcanbe the property ofFAI, theItalian of Antonio Fogazzaro, isnow and mosttreasured possessions houses thefurnishings,books Villa Fogazzaro Roi,which still are allinOria. of Niscioree and the cemetery harbour ofOmbretta, thevilla Castello: Franco’s garden, the gasio, SanMamete, Puriaand in thevillages ofOria, Albo- Indeed itisalmostentirely set The Little World ofthePast. drew inspiration for hisnovel this peacefulplacetheauthor shore ofLakeLugano. From let of Valsolda, ontheItalian in Oria,asmalloutlying ham- periods ofhislife inhisvilla Antonio Fogazzaro spentlong FAMOUS BYFOGAZZARO THE PLACES MADE www.riservalagodipiano.eu For information: Fogazzaro’s house - 31

CHEESE!  THE ITINERARY A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF Lecco and LECCO the Valsassina, Bellano and Varenna, Brianza and Montevecchia: itineraries and products to discover the Lecco area. Duration by car (excluding visits and stops): approx. 2h 30min.

SORICOSORICO MAP MALEGENDP LEGEND COLICOCOLICO ItineraryItinerary

o o WayfarerWayfarer’s Path’s Path m m DepartureDeparture o BELLANOo BELLANO PREMANAPREMANA C C ArrivalArrival

CRANDOLACRANDOLA V. V.

mulberry was being abandoned because of a crisis VARENNA VARENNA e e in the breeding of silkworms. To make up for the a k k L L a BARZIOBARZIO loss of these resources, people began to grow some of the most popular aromatic herbs used in Lombard BALLABIOBALLABIO cuisine on the terraces of Montevecchia (now part of the Natural Park of Montevecchia and the Curone LECCOLECCO Valley). In particular, they grew sage and rosemary, which adapted well to the favourable microclimate COMOCOMO and the absence of frost. In recent years, many other herbs have been added to the traditional ones

MONTEVECCHIAMONTEVECCHIA IMBERSAGOIMBERSAGO

ITINERARY

THE FRAGRANCES OF MONTEVECCHIA

The history of the sage and rosemary of Montevecchia begins in the early 20th century when the vines, which had always been present in this area, were attacked and damaged by grape phylloxera. At the same time, the cultivation of Slopes typical of Montevecchia

32 The mist and fog that rise from the plains LECCO and the lakes brush it fruitfully: it is now clear that the most delicate and exquisite wine is always made using ripe grapes at the very limit of the climatic and geoponic conditions necessary for life”. Towards the end of the 19th century, a series of factors led to the gradual abandonment of the terraces of Montevecchia: Poor financial profitability due to the difficulty of growing grapes on very short slopes and the arrival of Terreno agricolo a Guanzate a parasite in 1880, the grape phylloxera, which decimated vineyards led to the gradual decline of agricultural activities. including basil, marjoram, mint, oregano, lemon The last decades of the 20th century triggered a balm, coriander and tarragon, to name a few. return to grape growing, thanks to the fact the The particular care taken with the plants, which area began to attract tourists, drawn here by its are still transported by shoulder from one terrace beauty and its variety of landscapes: lake, hills to another in conical wicker baskets called and mountains. This drew numerous potential gerla and the removal of weeds, done manually consumers here and helped consolidate and using small mechanical appliances, ensure the redeem a historical agricultural reality and a top product is of exceptional quality and recognised quality product. by the Lombardy Region, which has included For information: www.terrelarianeigt.it Montevecchia sage and rosemary in the list of traditional food and agricultural products. LEONARDO’S FERRY BOAT

TERRE LARIANE TGI Leonardo’s ferry boat connects the villages of Imbersago (LC) and Villa D’Adda (BG), Terre Lariane is a TGI (Typical Geographical situated on the opposite bank of the River Adda. Indication) product of the provinces of Lecco It is the reproduction of a ferry boat designed by and Como, which has been recognised since the 2008 vintage. The two most important production zones are the hills of Brianza around Montevecchia and the Upper Lake Como, where the terraced vineyards and significant differences in temperature give the wine the elegance, freshness and body that are typical of this territory. Already well known at the time of Strabone (63 BC – 19 AD), the largest wine producing area on Lake Como is in Montevecchia. In 1968 Mario Soldati described this territory thus: “The terraces of Montevecchia are in one of the most beautiful positions in Brianza […]

High mountains defend it from the north winds. OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO A TASTE

33 A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO

Leonardo da Vinci that was intended to exploit the and papier-mâché plastic compositions and the current, based on the so-called “Parallelogram Law”. Trinity by Cerano. Continue to the north of Lecco This craft, which underwent various re- where there are two neighbourhoods that vie to elaborations from 1513 onwards, takes travellers be where Lucia’s house was located – the tiny from one shore to the other and can transport up hamlet of Olate, thought to be the birthplace of to four cars. the “betrothed bride”, and Acquate. Higher up, on A cable, stretched taut between the two shores, the promontory of Zucco, is believed to be where allows the boat to be manoeuvred by just one man. Don Rodrigo’s villa once was, although it is now Nearby, less than 6 kilometres from the Imbersago a Rationalist building. Meanwhile, a rural road ferry, the spectacular bridge over the River Adda that leads to Germanedo should mark the site of is one of top architectural works in iron created the famous “ambush” of the Bravi. Furthermore, in Italy. Designed by the Swiss engineer Jules the quarter of Chiuso is where the tailor who Röthlisberger and built between 1887 and 1889, welcomes Lucia when she is freed is thought to the bridge stands 85 metres above the level of the have lived and where the famous conversion of river and is a total of 266 metres long. the Unnamed took place. Finally, a visit to the home of the Manzoni family, which the writer reluctantly sold, is obligatory. The building now THE PLACES MADE FAMOUS houses Manzoni Museum, where manuscripts, BY THE BETROTHED first editions and other memorabilia relating to the life and work of the author are exhibited. Finally, on Thursday, a man came to the convent and asked for Agnese. He was a fishmonger from Pescarenico, who regularly went down to Milan THE CHEESES OF THE VALSASSINA (…) It is impossible to mention Lake Como without A land that produces a number of protected referring to The Betrothed. The city of Lecco, designation of origin (PDO) cheeses, such as with its neighbourhoods and quarters, is a taleggio, gorgonzola and quartirolo, the province constant reminder of Alessandro Manzoni’s of Lecco can be considered one of the cradles masterpiece. We recommend a visit to the ancient of the Italian cheese-making industry. In the quarter of Pescarenico, south of the city, where last decades of the 19th century, in Ballabio Brother Cristoforo’s monastery was and where it alone three companies were founded that have is possible to visit the Church of St Materno and St become part of the history of cheese-making in Lucia, which houses very rare 17th-century wax Italy and the world – Galbani, Locatelli and later,

Lecco, panoramic view Ballabio, panoramic view

34 history of manufacturing cuttingweapons of manufacturing history in for blade andscissorproduction inItaly. The metres above sealevel, isthelargest centre Premana, asmallvillageinthe Valsassina 1,000 CUTLERY FOR ALL RECIPES PREMANA, cavie, which means“guineapigs”inItalian. were testedoutsomany times they were called to invent therecipeandpleasehislord;asthey from thenumerousattemptsmadeby thechef sprinkles. Legend hasitthattheirnamecomes make versions withchocolate,honey orsugar caviadini intheirshopwindows andsometimes shopsandbakeries in the valleypastry display oftourism.Nowadays,of thefirstforms all entire Valsassina thankstothedevelopment they becamepopularinthe the 19thcentury since the 18th century, towards the end of They have madeinBarzio anancienthistory: and thecaretaken incookingthem. they thefact are kneaded byingredients, hand are sodeliciousthankstotheuseofwholesome knotted. They or diamond- that aretypically biscuitspastry -crust ple, short Caviadini aresim- BARZIO CAVIADINI OF valleys ofLecco. Valsassina d’Alpefromthe andmascherpa typical stracchinoandfromthe – Fiorone andRobiolafromthe Valsassina, productsbyagricultural theLombardyRegion have beenrecognised astraditionalfoodand production. Five cheeses fromtheLeccoarea world, it also still boasts top quality artisan inevery of themade this area famous part Alongside industrialproduction,which has Invernizzi. shaped investing inresearchand product quality, the alloverexported theworld. Inrecentyears, by the ChamberofCommerceLecco,arenow PREMANA Collective QualityBrand, issued by Their products,which allbearthehallmark involved in theproductionofscissorsandknives. 150 companies,mainly family - day, in such a small village, thereare more than family- engaged many other villagers and the number of to hisfaraway compatriots. This activity quickly village andbegan makingcuttingblades tosell immigrants, Ambrogio tothe Sanelli,returned Venice, Verona andMilan.In1869oneofthese small shopsandworkshops incitiessuchas village’s menwere andopen forcedtoemigrate whenback tothelate19thcentury many ofthe area. The “miracleofPremana”,however, dates working ironthatwas sowidespreadinthis this mountaintown of originatesfromtheart and indeed, stillarepreparedtomarkthefeast Scapinasc, which were traditionally prepared SCAPINÀSC OF THE UPPER VALSASSINA case” foreconomistsworldwide tostudy. is always oflabour, ashortage of“clinical asort where thereisnounemployment andwhere there small town, with just over 2,000inhabitants, competition fromtheglobalmarket makingthis of Premana haveartisans managed to survive run workshopsrun increasedrapidly. To this Premana, panoramic view run businesses, businesses, run 35

A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO

of the patron saint of Crandolo, St Anthony Abbot, recall the awkward shape of the scapin, which in local dialect refers to a bulky, hand-knitted sock made using coarse and felted wool, once worn around the house. These sweet ravioli parcels originated in the Upper Valsassina in the first half of the 17th century, when the cultivation of buckwheat began in the valley. In fact, the same cereal is used to make the pasta for Valtellina’s famous pizzoccheri. Scapinasc are considered a complete meal thanks to the filling that contains all

Bellano, panoramic view discover the magnificent landscapes of the lake and the inland area.

Crandola’s famous “scapinasc” VILLA MONASTERO VARENNA the ingredients available in the area: from grated cheese, to finely chopped dried fruit (pears, apples, An ancient monastery and noble residence, Villa figs and prunes), to milk and grated stale bread. Monastero, which is owned by the Province of Lecco, is now a conference centre of international

BELLANO AND THE NOVELS OF ANDREA VITALI

The delightful village of Bellano, on the eastern shore of Lake Como, is the backdrop for all the novels by the writer Andrea Vitali. Every street in the village, every viewpoint and every donkey trail ended up in his books; in fact, whenever you walk around the village’s narrow streets it feels as if you are about to meet one of his main characters. Enthusiasts of the work of Andrea Vitali can find a map on the Municipality of Bellano website (www.comune.bellano.lc.it) with indications of the places where the amazing adventures of his characters are actually set. Situated at the mouth of the Valsassina, the village offers enchanting views and delightful walks to Villa Monastero

36 the villages, and continues as far asColico the villages,andcontinuesasfar to halfway upthehill, passinginandoutof links. The pathclimbsfrom Abbadia Lariana witness totherolethisareaplayed intrade and that, along with the lakeside road, bears asSwitzerland from theareanearMilanasfar The pathtracesanancientroutethatoncewent northwards. dottedalongthecoastfromLecco the resorts to discover andnaturalbeautyof theartistic its maintowns. It offers auniqueopportunity shore of the lake, passing through alleastern The so- THE WAYFARER’SPATH villamonastero.eu). Institute, itsorganisational body(www. by theProvince ofLeccoand Villa Monastero and conferences, now promoted and managed scientific, administrative andculturalcourses residence. Since1953thevillahashosted Federico anditbecameaprivate Borromeo wasthe monastery suppressedby Cardinal all probabilitybeforethe13thcentury. In1567, order of the Cistercians and was founded with of St Maria that belonged to the Monastery The nameofthevilladerives fromtheancient plants, statutes,smalltemplesandbalustrades. 1953. The villa’s gardens arefilledwithexotic organised itssummercoursesinthisvenue since the ItalianPhysical Society(SIF),which has lessons in1954duringthesecondcourseof renown. Itiswhere EnricoFermi heldhis called “Wayfarer’s Path” flanksthe Lierna, panoramic view www.leviedelviandante.it For stagedurationsanddetailedmaps visit: canbecoveredmean theitinerary inany season. up themountainandhasanexcellent exposure train. the path doesn’tThe fact climb too high walkerspoint by to their departure returning line, itcanbecovered onestageatatime,with often intersectswiththeLecco- divided into3or4stages. it Thanks tothefact Depending onyour level oftraining,itcanbe km andtherefore,hastobecovered instages. Province ofComo.Itcovers atotalofabout45 Valtellina andfromtheretoSorico,inthe inlandtothefoothillsof before turning Brivio and river Adda Colico railway 37

A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO LAKE FLAVOURS… IN THEPAN

SOUSED FISH

Clean, gut and descale the fish then toss it in flour and fry gently in a little olive oil until golden on both sides. Cut the onion into rounds and sweat down in a separate pan. Cut the celery and carrot into strips and add to the pan with 3 or 4 juniper berries, 2 black peppercorns, a sprig of wild thyme and 1 or 2 bay leaves. Immediately pour over enough liquid – consisting of two thirds of white wine and a third of white wine vinegar (or half and half for Level of difficulty: medium those who prefer stronger flavours) – to cover Preparation time: approx. 45 minutes the fish. Ingredients for four people: Bring to the boil and then cook over a low heat 300 g lake fish A little flour for about ten minutes. Extra-virgin olive oil To finish, pour all the hot liquid and vegetables 1 onion over the fish and allow to rest in the fridge for 1 celery stalk at least 24 hours. Serve cold. 1 carrot Can be stored in the fridge for a few days. Juniper berries (optional) 1 garlic clove Black peppercorns Sprig of thyme (wild if possible) 2 bay leaves Glass consisting of two parts white wine and one part white wine vinegar Salt and pepper to taste

38 PAN

Pescallo

POLENTA UNCIA

Mix together the two different types of flour. Bring the water to the boil in a copper pan, add the salt then sprinkle in the flour a little at a time. Cook for the time necessary (approx. 40 minutes), continuing to stir all the time. Once cooked, spoon a layer of polenta into a dish. Add a layer of cheese cut into pieces, then another layer of polenta and so on until all the ingredients have been used. End with a layer of cheese. Level of difficulty: easy Melt the butter in a saucepan with the garlic Preparation time: approx. 1 hour and sage until it begins to foam and turns a Ingredients for 6/8 people nutty brown colour. 750 g cornmeal flour 250 g buckwheat flour Pour over the polenta. 2 litres water Salt Butter 4 garlic cloves 8 sage leaves 6/700 g half-fat mountain cheese (like Semuda) LAKE FLAVOURS… IN THELAKE PAN FLAVOURS…

39 LAKE FLAVOURS… IN THEPAN

RICE AND FILLETS OF PERCH POLENTA AND MISSOLTINI

Level of difficulty: easy Level of difficulty: easy Preparation time: 30 minutes Preparation time (excluding the cooking time Ingredients for four people: for the polenta): approx. 15 minutes 280 g rice Ingredients: 300/400 g lake perch Polenta 4 tablespoons olive oil Missoltini 100 g butter Vinegar 1 whole egg Water A little flour (approx. 2 tablespoons) Parsley Breadcrumbs Oil A few sage leaves

Cook the rice in plenty of boiling salted water. Cook some yellow polenta, form into a small In the meantime toss the fillets in the flour then “loaf ” and allow to cool before cutting into the egg and finally in the breadcrumbs. Fry in approx. 1 cm thick slices. a pan with some olive oil and a knob of butter Rinse the fish in warm water and vinegar to until they are golden brown on both sides. eliminate any excess salt and fatty residue. Beat When cooked, drain the rice and serve, sprin- delicately with a meat hammer then cook for a kling with grated Parmesan cheese. few minutes on a hot griddle (or alternatively, At this point, place the fillets of fish on top, in a sloping saucepan taking care to ensure arranged to look like the petals of a flower. they do not fry in their own oil). In a separate pan, sauté the sage leaves in butter Grill the slices of polenta separately. and pour over the dish. Remove the scales from the fish using a sharp Serve piping hot. knife then place them next to or on top of the slices of polenta. LAVARET WITH BUTTER AND SAGE Sprinkle with chopped parsley and drizzle with vinegar and oil. Replace the perch with lavaret and follow the same fish preparation method as the above recipe for rice with fillets of perch. Serve with a side dish of salad or with roast, boiled or mashed potatoes. 40 and enjoyed pipinghot. cakes shouldbepreparedatthe lastminute then sprinklewithsugar andicingsugar. The Once cooked, drainonsomekitchenpaper for abouttenminutesontheother side. to brown, thenflipover andcontinuecooking Cook over alively heatuntilthe bottombegins taking caretoensurethecakes donotstick. a drizzleofoilandnon- Alternatively, foralighterversion, usejust covering thebasewithathin layer ofbatter. large ladletopourthemixtureintopan, over alow heat. When theoilishot,usea Pour abouttwo fingersofseedoilinapan adding tothemixture. Peel theappleandcutintothinslicesbefore little water toobtainasmoothcreamy mixture. bowl, thenbeatwithawhisk while addinga Mix together theflour, milkandeggs ina Sugar andicingsugar Pinch ofsalt 1 glasswater 1 whole egg (optional) 1/2 yellow apple(optional) 250 mlmilk 200 gwhite flour (28/32 øfryingpan): Ingredients for two cutizzeorfriedcakes Preparation time:approx. 20minutes Level ofdifficulty:easy CUTIZZA stick frying pan, pan, stick frying leaves, eitherwhole orchopped. the cake with some sugar and a few rosemary Once cooked, ifdesired, of sprinkle thesurface at 180°C. Bake inapre- not bemorethan4cmdeep. batter intoacake tin. The cake battershould Lastly, add thebakingpowder andpourthe and mixtogether well. too wet. appleandpears Add thedriedfruit, well; the mixtureshould be creamy, not but Add theextra- continuing tostir, withapinchofsalt. the two different types of flour and add, Pour inthemilkandmixwell. Mixtogether Cream thesugar andthewhole eggs together. 2 smallor1large applecutintothinslices 80 gsultanassoakedinwarm water 7 finely chopped driedfigs 20 coarsely chopped walnuts 200 mlextra-virgin oliveoil too stiff) 250 mlmilk(+½glassmore ifthemixture is 2 eggs 90 gsugar Pinch ofsalt 125 gwhite flour 200 gcornmealflour(likefioretto) Ingredients: Preparation time:20min.plus1hourcookingtime Level ofdifficulty:easy A littlerosemary (optional) 1 sachet bakingpowder 2 smallor1large pearcutintothinslices MEASCIA virgin olive oilandmixtogether heated oven for45/60minutes 41

LAKE FLAVOURS… IN THE PAN TASTING ANDSALE

sale at the tasting corner in Lariofiere Exhibition Centre, at Latteria Alto Lario in Dongo, at CERTIFICATION MARK some Consorzio Agrario di Como e Lecco sales outlets and at some large supermarkets. For more THE SAPORI DI TERRA, SAPORI DI LAGO information contact: Consorzio per la Tutela dei BRAND LABEL Prodotti Tradizionali della Provincia di Como Piazza Camerlata, 9 - Como Since 2002, the Sapori di terra, Sapori di lago Tel. +39 031.59.16.24 - www.saporidicomo.it (Flavours of the Land, Flavours of the Lake) brand has guaranteed the traditional nature of the preparation of local products. Set up in order to SALES OUTLETS protect and promote the food and wine heritage of Lake Como, the brand has triggered a virtuous circle linking tourism, gastronomy, agriculture and COMO FARMERS’ MARKET artisan production. Traditional products can only use the brand if they are made following specific Situated at the entrance to the walled city inside guidelines that respect traditions. The products Como’s covered market (a 1930s building of protected include traditional cakes like Braschin, great historical and architectural interest), Como Masigott, Meascia, Nocciolini and Resta, cheeses Farmers’ Market is without doubt well worth a visit. like soft goat’s cheese, Casoretta, Formaggella di Over 20 local farms from the mountains, plains Caglio, Semuda, Stracchino and Zincarlin, Larian and hills, as well as professional fishermen, sell cheeses and Ricotta del Lario, head salami, honey their produce, including cheese, dairy products, and liver mortadella, to name a few. meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, bread, flour, honey,

CONSORTIUM FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS OF THE PROVINCE OF COMO

The traditional products made by companies that are members of the Consortium for the Protection of the Traditional Products of the Province of Como can use the Sapori di terra, Sapori di lago label. The consortium takes part in local markets and street markets and its products are also on

42 SALE

Cow’s and goat’s milk is collected and processed by Delebio Cooperative which, to this day, collects milk from most farmers in the Upper Lario area and processes it locally into cheeses and dairy products typical of Lake Como guaranteeing continuity and ever-increasing qualitative standards. OPENING TIMES - Monday - Saturday: 8.30am - 12.15pm / 3.30pm - 7.15pm Sunday: 9.00am - 12.15pm Via Statale, 178 - 22014 DONGO (CO) jams, preserves, flowers and plants directly to Tel. +39 0344.82184 - www.latteriaaltolario.com their customers. COMO FARMERS’ MARKET TASTING CORNER AT LARIOFIERE Como - Covered market - Via Mentana, 5 Producers’ Pavilion At Lariofiere Exhibition Centre in Erba it is Opening times: possible to taste traditional local products at any Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday: event being held there. 8.00 am – 1.00 pm It is a special space designed to help enhance Local farmers in the producers’ pavilion at local products, where visitors can taste and Como covered market can be recognised thanks purchase goods. to the Co.MAC (Consorzio Mercato Agricoltori Comaschi) consortium brand label.

LATTERIA ALTO LARIO IN DONGO

The sales outlet of the Latteria Alto Lario in Dongo sells all the best dairy produce of Lake Como, such as traditional Semuda and Lariano, which are made in the adjacent cheese factory, as well as other cheese typical of the heritage of the Valtellina. In the welcoming sales outlet, the Latteria also sells excellent Laghi Lombardi del Lario PDO BOX LARIOFIERE - Lariofiere is a olive oil, delicate local honey, fish such as multipurpose space, a successful trade fair centre misultin (Mediterranean shad) and other lake and the ideal place for corporate meetings or fish, homemade jams, typical local cakes like events involving the general public. It is a venue braschin, the best local wines and traditional that specializes in the presentation and marketing cold cuts. of products and a natural choice for conferences, Founded in order to promote and preserve the concerts or social, cultural or sports events. cheese-making traditions of the Upper Lario It is a well-organised and flexible facility located and Ceresio Valley, the Caseificio Alto Lario in a territory that has considerable potential di Dongo was set up in 2010 thanks also to the and offers a considerable number of initiatives. contribution of the Comunità Montana Valli del Address: Lariofiere Exhibition Centre

Lario e del Ceresio and the Province of Como. S.S. 639 - ERBA - www.lariofiere.com ANDTASTING SALE

43 WHERE AND HOW APRODUCT

Do you want to find out about typical local products? As part of the “A Lake Full of Flavours” project, professional farmers and fishermen in the province of Como are opening the doors to their companies, inviting visitors to watch the various production and processing phases and taste some of the delicious produce. Alongside your tourist itinerary of Lake Como,

visit a company that makes local products and you’ll enjoy an unmistakeable experience in extremely enchanting places. There’s so much to satisfy even the most curious palates: honey extraction, cheese making, vegetables and fruit picked straight off the tree, the

44 PRODUCT IS MADE

discovery of vineyards, wine cellars and olive groves with an old mill, an excursion by boat on the lake to watch a professional fisherman at work, trekking on an ass to discover mountain pastures and barns. There’s even an opportunity to taste and visiting the website www.lakecomo.it you’ll perhaps buy produce directly from farmers. find a map with the addresses of the companies By scanning the QR code on this page or taking part in this initiative. For each producer you’ll also find the activities offered, opening times, references and lots of other useful information for your visit.

www.lakecomo.it

Scan the QR code with your mobile device to find out the companies that joined the

programme. WHERE AND A PRODUCT HOW IS MADE 45 TOURIST INFORMATION

From Switzerland it is possible to reach Como via The Lake Como area is in the heart of the the A2 Basle-Chiasso motorway. foothills of the Alps in Lombardy, north of Milan, which is about 50 km away and a LECCO stone’s throw from Switzerland. The area From Milan (50 km) SS 36 Nuova Valsassina, a is divided into the provinces of Lecco and handy superhighway that reaches Lecco in less than 1 hour. Como, whose main cities are 40 km apart. Its proximity to mainline stations, airports From Como (30 km) a necessary route for those and motorways means it is possible to coming from Varese and the Canton Ticino. Follow reach Lake Como using whatever means of state roads 342, 639 and 36 to reach Lecco in transport you deem most appropriate. about 45 minutes. Lake Como can easily be reached by car From Bergamo (35 km) the main access route for from the main cities of Lombardy and from those coming from the east, state roads 342 and Switzerland. 639 lead to Lecco in approx. 50 minutes. From Sondrio (80 km) SS 38 to the Fuentes junction then continue along SS 36 towards Lecco.

BY CAR BY TRAIN COMO To reach Como from all over Italy it is necessary COMO to travel via the large motorway junction of Milan. Trenitalia/TreNord: from Milan Central or Milan At Viale Certosa follow signs for Como/Varese/ Porta Garibaldi stations for Como San Giovanni. Autostrada dei Laghi, then take the A9 Lainate- Duration: between 40 minutes and 1 hour. Como-Chiasso. TreNord: from Milan Cadorna Train Station For the city centre of Como we recommend the connections with Como Nord Lago (Milan - Como Como Centro or Monte Olimpino exits. line) and with Erba and the Valsassina (Milan- To continue along the western shore of the lake we Asso line). Duration: approx. 1 hour. recommend the Lago di Como exit. SBB Swiss Railways: from Zurich and Lugano, 46 Bergamo –OrioalSerio MilanMalpensa, Linateand airports: Lake Comoiseasily connectedwiththe for directtrains. trains. Duration:approx. 1hourand20minutes Varenna) fordirecttrains,otherstopslocal the shoresoflake (Colico,Bellanoand on stopsatthemainresorts line. Intermediate From SondrioTirano-Sondrio-Lecco-Milan towns. Duration:40minutesonthedirecttrain. Frequent trainsconnectthetwo main provincial From Bergamo Brescia-Bergamo-Lecco line. 10 minutes,changinginMolteno. Giovanni station.Duration:approx. 1hourand Frequent fromComoSan trainsdeparting From Como Como-Molteno-Lecco line. (approx.). the directline,withtrainsleaving every hour Garibaldi stations.Duration:40minuteson and localtrainsfromMilanCentralPorta From Milan-Sondrio-Tirano line.Direct LECCO Giovanni. DurationfromLugano: 1hour. Lugano-Chiasso-Como lineforSan BY PLANE BY Lake Como, rstbasin Lecco (every 40minutes). Bergamo Train Stationandthendirecttrainsto From direct toMilanCentral Train Station. also anew railnetwork connectionthatgoes minutes respectively. From Malpensathereis Milan Central Train Stationevery 30and20 every with service day thatconnectstheairport From LECCO CONNECTIONS WITH Como SanGiovanni. forMilanCentral bus Train Stationandtrainfor From Giovanni. Central Train StationandtrainforComoSan From available thatgoestoMilanCentral Train Station. From Malpensaarailnetwork connectionisalso See www.malpensaexpress.it andwww.trenord.it Malpensa Expresstrains,changinginSaronno. From COMO CONNECTIONS WITH strategic placesontheterritory. Tourist Boards(IAT Information offices) in in there,touristswillfindvariousto take part events and the numerous activities itispossible its many attractions,placesofinterest,key For ontheLake Comoarea, moreinformation • Malpensa andLinate Airports: USEFUL WEBSITES: • • Nord Milanorailway: • Orio alSerio Airport: Bergamo-Orio alSerio: no.1for AtB bus Milan-Malpensa connectionstoComoby Milan-Linate ATM forMilan shuttlebus Linate andMalpensathereisacoach www.trenitalia.it Trenitalia railway: www.trenord.it www.sacbo.it www.sea-aeroportimilano.it Milan Bergamo-Orio al Serio shuttle 47

TOURIST INFORMATION  HOW TO GET HERE TOURIST INFORMATION

PROVINCE OF COMO Tourism Department - Via Borgo Vico 171 22100 COMO - www.lakecomo.it [email protected]

OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES

NAVIGAZIONE LAGO DI COMO (NLC) Via per Cernobbio, 18 - 22100 Como Tel. +39 031 579211 - Fax +39 031 570080 - www.navigazionelaghi.it Ossuccio, bell tower of the [email protected] Church of St Maria Maddalena in Stabio At the IAT Tourist Information Board offices, ASF BUS SERVICE which are open all year round, even the most (urban and extra-urban bus lines) demanding visitors will find comprehensive Via Asiago, 16/18 - 22100 Como material such as maps, guidebooks, brochures Tel. +39 031 247111 - Fax +39 031 340900 - and all the information they may need to enjoy a www.asfautolinee.it - [email protected] holiday to the full. COMO BRUNATE FUNICULAR RAILWAY Piazza De Gasperi, 4 - 22100 Como Tel. +39 031 303608 - Fax +39 031 302592 - COMO TOURIST INFORMATION BOARD www.funicolarecomo.it - [email protected] (IAT Office) Piazza Cavour, 17 ARGEGNO-PIGRA CABLE CAR Tel. +39 031 269712 - Fax +39 031 240111 Via Spluga - 22010 Argegno [email protected] Tel. +39 031 821344

BELLAGIO TOURIST INFORMATION BOARD (IAT Office) Piazza Mazzini (wharf) Tel. and Fax +39 031 950204 [email protected]

MENAGGIO TOURIST INFORMATION BOARD (IAT Office) P.zza Garibaldi, 8 Tel. and Fax +39 0344 32924 [email protected] View of Brivio from the River Adda LECCO TOURIST INFORMATION BOARD (IAT Office) Piazza XX Settembre 23, WEBSITES AND APPS c/o Palazzo delle Paure Tel. +39 0341 295720 / 721 OFFICIAL WEBSITE OF THE LAKE Fax +39 0341 295730 COMO TOURIST SYSTEM [email protected] www.lakecomo.it

48 http://itunes.apple.com/it/app/razionalismo-in- be downloaded from Available itcan inItalian,Englishand German city ofComoitself. Comacina Island, tothe passingviaCernobbio western shoreofLake Como, Tremezzina and Rationalist architecture on the to 20th century dedicated is a55-minutemultimediaitinerary The “RationalismintheProvince ofComo” App PROVINCE OFCOMO RATIONALISMIN THE id934655273?mt=8 https://itunes.apple.com/it/app/ LeVieDelViandante&hl=it details?id=com.lineacontinua.soledivetro. Apps: https://play.google.com/store/apps/ www.leviedelviandante.it ofyourbook fromthecomfort own home. you want you tovisitandtheservices want to the stretchthatsuitsyour interests,theplaces geographical andpoliticalboundaries.Choose men andgoodstocirculatefreely, despite thatoverarmies thecenturieshave allowed by wayfarers, and traders,smuggles,pilgrims south ofEurope-communicationroutescrossed linked totradebetweenhistory and thenorth The Lake Comoareahasarichand varied Valchiavenna andMesolcinaatasnail’s pace. history, natureandcultureofLake Como,the A website andanapptohelpyou discover allthe THE WAYFARER’SPATHS Comballo onLake Como from international from international App Stores. como-west-branch/id502416492?mt=8 and Link: http://itunes.apple.com/app/gardens-lake- smartphone. and breath-takingpanoramicviews using your followings paths andsearchingforhidden gems exploring itshistoricalgardens andparks area hastooffer. Discover Lake Comoby designedtoshowfacts allthebeautyComo andcurious Photographs, maps,information Free iPhoneapplication. WESTERN BRANCH THE GARDENSOFLAKECOMO como feedburner.com/razionalismo-in-provincia-di- The podcastisavailable athttp://feeds. razionalismo. com/store/apps/details?id=como.provincia. Google Play Storeaddresshttp://play.google. provincia/id708396280?mt=8 orthe Bellagio, Gardensof Villa Melzi 49

TOURIST INFORMATION  USEFUL ADDRESSES 50 A LAKE TOURIST OF FLAVOURS ITINERARIES

A LAKE FULL OF WINE ITALY

AS BEAUTIFUL AS A FLOWER

AS A SMOOTH AS OIL LOMBARDY

PLENTY MORE FISH LOMBARDY

AS GOOD AS... BREAD INFORMATION

AS SWEETAS HONEY LAKE COMO

CHEESE!

A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO A LAKE OF FLAVOURS ITINERARIES

A LAKE FULL OF WINE ITALY

AS BEAUTIFUL AS A FLOWER

AS A SMOOTH AS OIL LOMBARDY

PLENTY MORE FISH LOMBARDY

AS GOOD AS... BREAD

AS SWEETAS HONEY LAKE COMO

CHEESE!

A TASTE OF THE PROVINCE OF LECCO

TOURIST INFORMATION  MAP OF THE PROVINCE OF COMO Villa Balbianello, Tremezzina Texts and graphic project by: Provincia di Como - Settore Turismo, Agricoltura, Pesca

Print: Tecnograca srl - Lomazzo (Co) PROVINCIA DI COMO Edited by: Provincia di Como - Settore Turismo, Agricoltura, Pesca

This project is funded with the contribution of Regione Lombardia Ref. Campaign to promote the attractiveness of the Lombardian territory for Expo Milano 2015 (phase 1) - art. 16 della l.r. 19/2014.