Périgord FREE 2017 - 2018 Www Périgord Best Of

Digital version best of périgord FREE 2017 - 2018 www périgord best of . petitfute

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2018 2017

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Tourist office of Vézère Périgord Noir rue Jean Rouby - 24120 TERRASSON LAVILLEDIEU Tél. : +33 5 53 50 37 56 www.ville-terrasson.fr

504925_2C.indd 1 4/3/17 9:49 AM PUBLISHING Collection Directors and authors : Dominique AUZIAS et Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE Welcome to Publishing manager : Cécilia DELACOURT In collaboration with Didier MENDUNI périgord! Authors : Claire DELBOS, Sandrine ANSEL LEMASSON, Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE, Dominique AUZIAS et alter Publishing director : Stéphan SZEREMETA Publishing team (France) : Elisabeth COL, Maurane CHEVALIER, Silvia FOLIGNO, Tony DE SOUSA Made for English-speaking people looking for good tips Publishing team (World) : Patrick MARINGE, Caroline MICHELOT, Morgane VESLIN, Pierre-Yves SOUCHET, and addresses in Périgord, “Best of Périgord” by Petit Futé Talatah FAVREAU, Hector BARON is an essential how-to guide to find an accommodation, a STUDIO Studio Manager : Sophie LECHERTIER restaurant, to organize your visits and outings and ensure a assisted by Romain AUDREN pleasant stay in this beautiful land! Périgord is well known Layout : Julie BORDES, Élodie CLAVIER, Sandrine MECKING, Delphine PAGANO, Laurie PILLOIS, Sara DOLLE, by all lovers of gastronomy and historical sites. Here, you Noémie FERRON Pictures management : Anne DIOT will find a rich heritage and countless attractions: castles, Mapping management : Jordan EL OUARDI abbeys, churches, bastides, trogloyctic sites, caves, chasms, WEB gardens, museums, theme parks, etc. Périgord is divided Web Director : Louis GENEAU de LAMARLIERE Technical Director : Lionel CAZAUMAYOU into four touristic regions, a classification we respect in this Web management and Development : Jean-Marc REYMUND, Cédric MAILLOUX, Florian FAZER guide. Périgord Blanc: around Périgueux and the Valley of and Anthony GUYOT Isle. Périgord Noir offers an unmistakable hint of truffle Community Manager : Cyprien de CANSON and concentrates the main prehistoric sites and remarkable NATIONAL PUBLICITY Publicity director : Caroline CHOLLET castles. Périgord Pourpre includes all the Bergeracois and Local publicity management : Michel GRANSEIGNE its hillside vineyards which produce a golden wine: the Customer relations management : Vimla MEETTOO and Sandra RUFFIEUX Monbazillac. Don’t forget to visit the bastides! Périgord Vert Heads of National Publicity : Caroline AUBRY, François BRIANCON-MARJOLLET, Perrine DE CARNE MARCEIN, includes municipalities located in the Périgord Limousin Caroline GENTELET, Florian MEYBERGER, Caroline PREAU Regional Nature Park and Brantôme, the green Venice of INTERNATIONAL PUBLICITY Périgord. Périgord is a land of enchanting landscapes, Heads of Publicity : Jean-Marc FARAGUET, Guillaume LABOUREUR assisted by Elisa MORLAND charming small towns and wild nature that you can explore CIRCULATION AND PROMOTION by walking, cycling or horse riding. It is also the craftsmen, Sales promotion Director : Bénédicte MOULET assisted by Aissatou DIOP, Alicia FILANKEMBO festivals, the cultural and culinary events, the markets where Sales Manager : Jean-Pierre GHEZ assisted by Nathalie GONCALVES you can find local products such as foie gras, truffle, ceps, Press and sponsor partnership management : walnuts, strawberries, wine… Tasty ! With this guidebook, Jean-Mary MARCHAL Petit Futé has done everything possible to give you a ADMINISTRATION Chairman : Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE selection of addresses gathering the must-sees as well as Administrative and financial Director : Gérard BRODIN the hidden treasures for a successful stay and to enjoy the Human Resources Director : Dina BOURDEAU assisted by Sandra MORAIS and Vianney LAVERNE best this territory has to offer ! Information and Technology Manager : Pascal LE GOFF Accounting : Valérie DECOTTIGNIES assisted by Jeannine DEMIRDJIAN, Oumy DIOUF, Christelle MANEBARD and Adrien PRIGENT Collection : Fabien BONNAN assisted by Sandra BRIJLALL Siwtchboard : Jehanne AOUMEUR PETIT FUTE BEST OF PÉRIGORD Petit Futé was founded by Dominique AUZIAS. It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université 18, rue des Volontaires - 75015 Paris. & 01 53 69 70 00 - Fax 01 42 73 15 24 Internet : www.petitfute.com SAS au capital de 1 000 000 E - RC PARIS B 309 769 966 PRINTED IN FRANCE Cover : Vignoble des Moulins de Boisse © phbcz Printing : IMPRIMERIE CHIRAT - 42540 Saint-Just-la-Pendue Legal deposit : 02/08/2017 ISBN : 9791033162261

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Sainte-Alvère...... 121 DISCOVERY n Saint-Cyprien...... 122 Must-sees...... 8 Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère...... 123 Nature...... 15 Salignac-Eyvigues...... 123 History...... 19 Sarlat-la-Canéda ...... 126 Périgord gastronomy...... 22 Thenon...... 149 Sports & Leisure...... 27 Terrasson-Lavilledieu ...... 150 Villefranche-du-Périgord...... 158 Festivals & Events...... 29 Vitrac-Montfort...... 159 PÉRIGORD BLANC PÉRIGORD POURPRE (WHITE PÉRIGORD) n (PURPLE PÉRIGORD) n Périgord Blanc (White Périgord)...... 34 Périgord Pourpre (Purple Périgord)...... 164 Périgueux ...... 34 Beaumont-du-Périgord ...... 164 Marsac-sur-l’Isle...... 56 Belvès ...... 165 Montpon-Ménestérol...... 57 Bergerac...... 166 Mussidan...... 60 Couze-Saint-Front...... 179 Neuvic-sur-l’Isle...... 61 Eymet ...... 180 Saint-Astier...... 63 Issigeac...... 182 Saint-Pierre-de-Chignac...... 66 Lalinde...... 182 Sorges ...... 66 Limeuil...... 183 Vergt...... 69 Monbazillac ...... 184 Monpazier...... 188 Montcaret...... 190 PÉRIGORD NOIR Sainte-Foy-la-Grande...... 192 (BLACK PÉRIGORD) n Villamblard...... 194 Périgord Noir (Black Périgord)...... 74 Beynac...... 74 PÉRIGORD VERT Le Bugue-sur-Vézère ...... 80 Le Buisson-de-Cadouin ...... 86 (GREEN PÉRIGORD) n Carlux...... 91 Périgord Vert (Green Périgord)...... 198 Castelnaud...... 92 Bourdeilles ...... 198 Daglan...... 94 Brantôme-en-Périgord ...... 200 Domme ...... 95 Excideuil...... 208 Hautefort ...... 99 Jumilhac-le-Grand...... 213 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac...... 103 Mareuil...... 214 Marquay-Sireuil...... 108 Nontron ...... 216 Meyrals...... 110 Ribérac ...... 223 Montignac-Lascaux...... 112 La Roche-Chalais...... 228 La Roque-Gageac ...... 118 Saint-Jean-de-Côle...... 230 Rouffignac-Saint-Cernin- Thiviers...... 231 de-Reilhac...... 120 Index...... 236 FIND the Best visits interesting excellent unmissable Unforgettable 3 The old town, Sarlat-la-Canéda. SOMMAIRE © SteveAllenPhoto 4 Bussière- Badil D9 Haute- Highway N 1 ers V Main road imoges Piégut L Vienne Secondary road Varaignes Pluviers O E Prefecture Javerlhac Subprefecture D85 D75 City, village Vers A D675 S ngoulême Dordogne Highway Exit Nontron Airport

St-Pardoux- N2 Jumilhac- Forest la-Rivière le-Grand

la Rochebeaucourt- D708 D6

et-Argentine 75 e D707 n n D78 Charente Mareuil o r D939 D Sarrazac le D12 s Thiviers I D704 St-Jean- Champagnac- de-Côle Dussac Lanouaille D75 la Tour-Blanche de-Belair St-Sulpice- D707 Brantôme D78 d'Excideuil Verteillac D4 Bourdeilles St-Germain- Excideuil Sorges des-Prés D76

Vers B D708 arbézieux Coulaures

N21 Montagrier Lisle D939 D706 Savignac- e D710 - èr Hautefort Ribérac Château les-Eglises éz Tourtoirac Corrèze St-Méard- Tocane- l'Evêque Antonne- uv de-Drône St-Apre A et-Trigonant Cubjac 8 Mensignac 5 St-Aulaye Chancelade D N21 D704 Charente- D70 St-Vincent- PÉRIGUEUX Bassilac Maritime de-Connezac Trélissac A89 Vers Brive La Roche-Chalais D6021 St-Astier N2089 Thenon Terrasson- D65 la-Villedieu D709 D6089 Vers Brive D730 St-Laurent- le Lardin- sur-Manoire St-Pierre- St-Lazare de-Chignac Fossemagne Condat- D38 Neuvic sur-Vézère

N21 Montignac Mussidan D62

Villamblard D60 Isle Montpon- Vergt Rouffignac- Ménestérol A89 D710 06 Vers Bordeaux St-Cernin-de-Reilhac D6089 Issac D7 N89 e St-Léon- D47 èr z sur-Vézère Salignac- D709 é Eyvigues D9 A89 D708 St-Géry V D60 D62 D21 Villefranche- N21 le Bugue Marquay de-Lonchat Campsegret les Eyzies- D704 D20 D703 de-Tayac Vers L D47 ibou Sarlat- rne Meyrals Carlux Lamothe- la Force Trémolat Limeuil la-Canéda Montravel St-Cyprien Vélines Ste-Foy- D la-Grande Bergerac ordog Beynac- Vitrac- Montcaret Gardonne ne et-Cazenac Montfort D703 Dordogne Lalinde D29 le Buisson- D25 la Roque- D936 de-Cadouin Carsac- Couze- Gageac Aillac et-St-Front Siorac- Monbazillac en-Périgord Castelnaud- la-Chapelle Domme Cadouin Belvès Sigoulès Beaumont D710 Lot Gironde D46 N21 Issigeac Daglan D53 D14 D660 Périgord Vert D60 D933 Monpazier Périgord Blanc Eymet Falgueyrat V ers Villefranche- Périgord Pourpre V 0 10 km sur-Lotilleneuv du-Périgord Périgord Noir Reproduction interdite Lot-et- Vers C Jean-Baptiste Nény ers Bergerac e- ahors Mai 2011 V Garonne Bussière- 5 Badil D9 Haute- Highway N 1 ers V Main road imoges Piégut L Vienne Secondary road Varaignes Pluviers O E Prefecture Javerlhac Subprefecture D85 D75 City, village Vers A D675 S ngoulême Dordogne Highway Exit Nontron Airport

St-Pardoux- N2 Jumilhac- Forest la-Rivière le-Grand la Rochebeaucourt- D708 D6

et-Argentine 75 e D707 n n D78 Charente Mareuil o r D939 D Sarrazac le D12 s Thiviers I D704 St-Jean- Dordogne Champagnac- de-Côle Dussac Lanouaille D75 la Tour-Blanche de-Belair St-Sulpice- D707 Brantôme D78 d'Excideuil Verteillac D4 Bourdeilles St-Germain- Excideuil Sorges des-Prés D76

Vers B D708 arbézieux Coulaures

N21 Montignac Mussidan D62

Discovery

La Roque-Gageac, on the banks of Dordogne. © Vincent Formica Bolbo lbo BolboDiscovery lbo MUST-SEES

The Périgord is a department very rich in heritage since municipalities and covers 2,500 hectares. Its wines are it starts from prehistory to reach today, and there are rich, from the Sauvignon grape, Semillon, Muscadelle numerous inevitable sites. Land of 1001 castles, caves, and botrytis infected grapes that give a sweet wine, sinkholes, cave habitats, gardens, vineyards and medieval also called the gold of the Perigord. For a long time, towns, you will face a cornelian choice ... The 4 Perigord wine was considered men’s “affair”. Today, women have each have their story shoved especially during the Hundred managed to make their way by offering quality products. Years War or during the Second World War. These women are passionate about their craft, and have created wines full of femininity, sensuality and elegance, and have been making refined products respecting their The vineyards of Bergerac terroir and vineyard. Each gives her best to harvest and The vineyards of Bergerac, make up along with its turn to wine in subtle blends which they alone have the 12 000 hectares and 1,200 growers, the other great secret. The typical features of each wine, a fine bottle and vineyards of Aquitaine, whose origins go back further original label, will dazzle your tables and will accompany in time. With thirteen appellations, all the colours of your dishes successfully. wines are available: red, rosé, white (dry, soft and sweet). Centered around Bergerac, each appellation generously offers his riches: Red Bergerac, red Côtes de Château de Beynac Bergerac, montravel red pécharmant, Bergerac rosé, dry CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC Bergerac, dry montravel for soft: high montravel, Côtes Le Bourg du montravel, coasts blanc-de-bergerac and rosette. BEYNAC-ET-CAZENAC Finally, the sweet, the saussignac and monbazillac. By & +33 (0)5 53 29 50 40 traveling the road of wines, you will encounter wineries, www.chateau-beynac.com winemakers, who mostly work the vineyard for several [email protected] generations and in recent years, British, Dutch, etc... Open all year. Low season: every day from 10am to 6pm. fell in love for the Dordogne and wine. Everyone loves High season: every day from 10am to 6.30pm. In winter, to share their passion and are committed to the quality of 12pm with fallen the day. Free for under 5-year-olds. of their production to make the window of a special Adult: E8. Child (from 5 to 11 years old): E3.50. Group Périgord, with its own identity. rate from E8. AOC Bergerac red and rosé contain cabernet sauvignon, Built on a cliff, 150 meters above the Dordogne river, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec or côt. Dry Bergerac is opposite its lifetime rival Castelnaud, Château de Beynac made from a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon, Muscadelle is an ideal observation point on the valley. It is the seat Ondenc and chemin blanc. Cabernet sauvignon and franc, of one of the four baronies of Périgord. Equipped with merlot, malbec côt or give to the red Côtes de Bergerac very thick walls, Beynac fully fulfils its defence function. this intense dark colour. Semillon is the grape of choice Its fortress austere side is enhanced by the gilded patina for white Côtes de Bergerac, with a golden colour. of its walls to the changing colours. Construction began The vineyard of the monbazillac appellation covers five in the 12th century but it underwent changes in the Record sheet wwNuméro (guide département): 24. wwPopulation: 424 456 habitants. wwDémographie: L’arrivée des nouveaux arrivants, surtout des retraités, compense les décès et les départs. wwDensité: 46 hab./km² wwSuperficie: 9 220 km² wwPréfecture et sous-préfectures: Périgueux, Bergerac, Sarlat, Nontron. wwNombre de communes: 557. wwRégion d’appartenance: Aquitaine. wwPoint culminant: 479 m. wwCours d’eau principaux: Dordogne et Vézère. Must-sees 9 © Phovoir DISCOVERY

The castle of Beynac, overlooking the town of Beynac-et-Cazenac. 17th century. Its rampart where soldiers armed with OFFICE DE TOURISME pikes and spears waited for attackers, the crenelated PÉRIGORD DRONNE BELLE 13th-century dungeon in the courtyard, the hoardings 6, rue du Puyjoli-de-Meyjounissas where the soldiers threw stones and loopholes will BRANTÔME-EN-PÉRIGORD trigger in you an irresistible envy to visit this English & +33 (0)5 53 05 80 63 and later on French stronghold. A document is given www.perigord-dronne-belle.fr at the entrance and completely unique audio-guide in [email protected] its kind as it allows an auditive and visual immersion in High season: open every day from 10am to 7pm. Closed the history of the exceptionally alive Beynac fortress. You in January. February, March, mid-October, November and will also appreciate the cuisine where Joan of Arc of Luc December; open every day 10am at 12pm and 2pm at 5pm, Besson and the Visitors of Jean-Marie Poiré, amongst closed on Tuesday. April, May and June: every day from others, have taken meal. The visit will end with a splendid 10am to 6pm. From September to mid-October: every day small 12th-century chapel, with roofed with flagstone, from 10am to 6pm. a cover very typical of Périgueux. Since the terrace of the The Tourist Office is located in the old Notre-Dame church. castle, the view of the Dordogne Valley and the crowned It includes almost all the municipalities in the cantons slopes of castles is wonderful. of Brantôme, Mareuil and Champagnac-de-Belair. You will be pleasantly received by charming hostesses who will answer your questions. You will also find brochures Brantôme relating to accommodation, catering, a complete listing Nicknamed “Green Venice of the Perigord” by a president of cultural sites open to visits, festivals, exhibitions, crafts, of the Council called Raymond Poincaré, it never entertainment, screens, a table and a touch terminal. In drew vainglory of this title. And yet it has no reason to the shop, you can buy placemats, games of the seven be jealous of other cities in this department. One can families on the theme of prehistory and Middle Ages, only fall under the spell of its banks of the Dronne, its postcards, walking sticks, etc. Finally, the Office has set abbey, the totally unusual angled deck and the excep- up new visits and activities. tional carved cave, called “Cave of the Last Judgment.” Prehistoric megalithic and many attractions, its Celtic and Gallo-Roman souvenir, its “cluzeaux” and cave dwellings The village of Bournat – Le Bugue proves its antiquity. Its bell tower – actually a “campanile” built on the rock – is “the oldest in France” with its “proto- PARC À THÈME LE BOURNAT LE BUGUE coupole” basis and Carolingian capitals. The Benedictine & abbey founded by Charlemagne bears the mark of the +33 (0)5 53 08 41 99 history of its destruction and reconstruction for more www.lebournat.fr than twelve centuries. Reading the works of one of its on abbots: “Brantome” – the man of Catherine de Medici – is Closed from October to February. Low season: open every essential to an understanding of the sixteenth century. day from 10am to 6pm. High season: every day from 10am Door of the Parc Naturel Regional Perigord-Limousin to 7pm. Free for under 4-year-olds. Adult: E13.50. Child and jewel of the Val-de-Dronne, Brantome open all year (from 4 to 12 years old): E9.90. Family package with round to lovers of nature, “Good Life” and “Good Food”. children from E42. Tourism label & Disability. Catering Romantic, relaxing, rich in history, recreation and sports, facilities (at Paul with music on the terrace shaded at the it brings a different touch to the Périgord. sunny days). Shop. 10 Must-sees

This theme park has scenes of rural life and the popular old): E4.20. Group (20 people): E5.80. Night tour: adult, history of Périgord in the late 19th century on 7 hectares: E11, from 5 to 15 years old child, E6. Reduced rates the school benches, the farm and crops, the old trades before 1pm in July and August (E7.40 for the adults and and crafts (walnut oil mill, still, traction engine, fair- E3.70 for the children). Children welcome (reading room ground organ, tools, horse-drawn carriages...), the for entertaining break around the Middle Ages, interactive toys the celebration, the objects of every day’s life of multi-media game). Activities. the time. Activities follow one another in the village: This fortress founded in the 12th century, built on a active craftsmen revive the ancestral professions, batch rocky outcrop covers the village that it overlooks from of country bread, forging, funfair with rides of yesteryear, its ramparts. Taken away five times by the English, the games of yesteryear such as bowling. Comedians liven castle proudly regained its commitment to the lily in up the streets dressed in period costume. Children 1442. It became recreational home and the artillery are looked after in manual-activity workshops (quill tower was built around 1520. Almost untouched during writing, stone carving, bread in baking room, glass the religious wars, it was slowly forgotten after the beads) and tale sessions. Old silent films are projected Revolution. Its collection of weapons and armour and in an old tobacco-drying barn while the rides (cater- the life-size restitutions of war machines – mangonneau, pillar 1900, chahut-bahut, butterfly carousel, coconut catapult, trebuchet, bricole – are precious richness to shy, rigolarium, rickshaw...) attract the youngest. The better understand the art of war in the Middle Ages and Grande Roue of the beginning of the 20th century offers the life of the lords. It is also an opportunity to have an a unique panorama, day and night. Other activities: a insight into the history of this castle through the tactical 40-minute boat trip on the wet land channels, a mini choices and yesteryear fighting strategies. farm with goats, rabbits, ponies, cows, ducks, etc... In recent months, a magnificient mural painting has and the acquisition of 2 electric-version reproductions adorned the walls of 60 m² in the house. On the theme of a Stanley mountain wagon, the ancestor of bus... You of Neufs Preux, this contemporary art creation has a can spend two hours or the entire day in the village. double challenge: to show a civil decor characteristic of Night life in high season when the lights of the lanterns the late Middle Ages, and to work for the transmission stretch to the open-air café and on the restaurant’s of know-how as the techniques used are those of the terrace until midnight. 15th century. Popular heroes and chivalry models, Neufs Preux are divided into three triads: Ancien Testament with Josué, David and Judas Maccabée; Antiquité with Hector, Château de Castelnaud Alexandre le Grand and César and Christian time with CHÂTEAU DE CASTELNAUD Arthur, Charlemagne and Godefroy de Bouillon. A medieval Musée de la Guerre au Moyen-Âge painting in bright colors, as fresh as the first day, which CASTELNAUD-LA-CHAPELLE reminds us that the Middle Ages was a colorful era. & In the summer, at dusk from July 10 to August 30, two +33 (0)5 53 31 30 00 actors take the audience on a journey through time. www.castelnaud.com For children, an educational booklet to arouse their [email protected] curiosity during the visit is available (and free) at the m ticket office, and many events around the Middle Ages Open all year. Low season: every day from 10am to 6pm. are scheduled during the school holidays: armor fitting, High season: every day from 9am to 8pm. Free for under trebuchet shooting demonstration, weapons handling, 10-year-olds. Adult: E8.40. Child (from 10 to 17 years forge demonstration. © Olivier.Bost – Xilopix © Olivier.Bost

Château de Castelnaud, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. Must-sees 11

Musée national de la préhistoire des Eyzies

MUSÉE NATIONAL DE PRÉHISTOIRE – Fotolia © Elenathewise 1, rue du Musée LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC-SIREUIL & +33 (0)5 53 06 45 45 www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr [email protected] Low season: open Wednesday to Monday from 9.30am to 12.30pm and from 2pm to 5.30pm. High season: DISCOVERY Wednesday to Monday from 9.30am to 6pm; every day from 9.30am to 6.30pm. High season in July and August, mid-season in June and September. Free for under 25-year- olds (citizens EU). Adult: E6. Tourism label & Disability. Guided tour. Activities. Library. This is THE museum of the world’s capital of prehistory, the gateway to understand the visit of the shelters nearby in their context. With the acquisition of locally sourced items but also from other regions of France, Jean-Jacques Cleyet-Merle, the director of this magnificent museum and valuable employees have recreated the complete chronological order of Palaeolithic period, since the installation of the first hunter-gatherers in Aquitaine The site of the national Prehistory museum. -400,000 years, until the end of the ice ages which is -10,000 years BCE. The tool collections and works of with the same pigments and the same gestures as men prehistoric art unearthed in the area are always presented from prehistory to be as close as possible to the cave. with the same chronological and geological interests. It begins with the visit of the facsimile. A lift transfers Flint knapping, but also many European Venuses are in us onto the roof of the half buried building, 9 metres the spotlight. The tour examines the lithic and bone high. In the dark, you gradually go down to the cavity industry, engraved and carved blocks – the first set of this and light appears gradually. You really feel coolness kind in the world – the furniture art, burials, prehistoric (13° to 16°) and humidity. There is even an overview fauna. The museum offers a parietal art furniture shop of the hole through which discoverers passed in 1940. during the holidays, on reservation: children with the tools It’s astonishing. You will discover Salle des Taureaux, of our ancestors, are transformed into prehistoric artists. Diverticule axial, Passage, the Apse and the Nave with all their wonderful paintings. At the end of the visit, several spaces allow you to go further in understanding Lascaux IV the reconstruction techniques. Through light techniques, it’s possible to discover drawings hidden in stone. You CENTRE INTERNATIONAL also take a parietal world trip though 3D projections. DE L’ART PARIÉTAL – LASCAUX 4 The establishment of this centre aims at protecting the MONTIGNAC & hill where the original cave was. The site of Lascaux +33 (0)5 53 50 99 10 2 remains open to special tours, group reception, etc. www.semitour.com [email protected] Closed in January. Low season: open Tuesday to Sunday Montpazier from 10am to 12pm and from 2pm to 6pm. High season: This bastide of regular plan has more than 700 years. It has every day from 9am to 7pm. Open between 1pm and traveled through time, almost untouched since the thir- 2pm during school holidays. Free for under 5-year-olds. teenth century, which lets you enjoy its irregular arcades, Adult: E9.90. Child (from 5 to 12 years old): E6.40. its market ground with units of measurement used in the Group (20 people): E7.70. Ticket coupled with Le Thot: grain trade, the St. Dominic Church and the fourteenth adult E13.50 and child E9.40. Ticket office in downtown century home of Chapter ... Considered a model amongst (ticket Bertran de Born) from April 1st to September 30th. the 300 country houses built in the Southwest, it develops Guided tour (40 min). a perfect rectangular plan. The houses surrounding the After Lascaux 2, Lascaux 4 is the new facsimile of Grotte de Cornières square built between the Middle Ages and Lascaux. It offers visitors an almost complete reconstruc- the seventeenth, 32 buildings in the village are thus tion of the part open to the public of the original cave. It classified by the Historic Monuments. Monpazier is the was designed from a digital clone which allowed making birthplace of Jean Galmot, journalist, writer and member hulls on which artists have projected the 3D images of of Parliament from Guyana, ruined and murdered by his the original cave. They then accurately reproduced them political opponents at the beginning of this century. 12 Must-sees

as mezzanines overlooking the vestiges of the domus Parc naturel régional and that over an area of nearly 700 m² on the ground. Périgord-Limousin Both balconies have full exposure to Vesonne. The main attraction of this space is the sculpted stone collection from PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL the ramparts of the Lower Empire. The domus, witness PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN of the extent of the remains of the old city is an essential Maison du parc la Barde element of the site. Everything is organized around it, the THE SHELL heart of the house, the peristyle garden and rooms. The & +33 (0)5 53 55 36 00 setting is protected by an umbrella from metal worn by www.pnr-perigord-limousin.fr 14 pillars with 9 meters high. The glass walls allow you [email protected] to play with the landscape. You will enjoy the spectacular Created in 1998, Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin views of the archaeological site and the discovery of the straddles two regions at the same time, Aquitaine and complex, in details on wooden footbridges. Wall paintings Limousin, and two departments, Dordogne and Haute- in situ, ceramics, jewelry are proposed. 50 showcases Vienne. It has 4 touristic identities: Bocage Limousin, displaying about the life of yesteryear are as interesting Massif des Feuillardiers, Plateaux Jumilhacois and Vallées as the wall paintings. Temporary exhibitions complete de l’Isle and Vallées Périgourdines. A preserved country, the visit. The museum has just acquired a document for built on a human scale and with a rich heritage, it has visually-impaired and blind people. It is spiral-bound almost 50,000 inhabitants and 180,000 hectares. You sheets which present in relief the monuments of the can visit outstanding natural sites all year round. Land of city, the remains, objects, etc. A text in big letters and tradition with original know-how (“Charentais” slippers, Braille specifies the name of the images. The shop offers a Nontron knife, chestnut crafts and basketry, extraction small guide Vesunna, visit guide, in an interactive version. of gold...), the park is also a place of celebration and It follows the direction of the visit, integrates the images conviviality (bellows Carnival, festivals of mushroom, extracted from the film La domus de Vésone et son décor. wood, chestnut, festival of bandas, turkeys fair). Many It allows you to access, thanks to QR codes, some tracks of museums, churches and castles open to the public and the audio guide, entertainment and film. Finally, while themed itineraries such as the route Richard Cœur de visiting the site www.perigueux-vesunna.fr you will find Lion reveal a rich and sometimes turbulent history. more than 1,000 objects that can be seen by visiting the Other places such as the Museum of Contemporary Art museum, thanks to a few clicks, with their pictures and of Rochechouart or the Métiers d’Art experimental Pole a very accurate description. of Nontron, reveal the vitality of the creative spirit in the Périgord-Limousin. In 2013, Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin has been certified by the European Sarlat-la-Canéda Charter for Sustainable Tourism. The capital of Périgord Noir is installed in the hollow hills that are called “pechs.” Sarlat-la-Caneda, city of art Musée gallo-romain Vesunna and history, was born in the ninth century and is built around a Benedictine abbey. Very quickly the city enriched de Périgueux under the direct authority of the Holy See in Rome. The Hundred Years War (1337 -1453) and the plague had SITE-MUSÉE GALLO-ROMAIN serious economic and demographic consequences. It was VESUNNA e during the reconstruction in the fifteenth and sixteenth 20, rue du 26 -Régiment-d’Infanterie centuries that the city is adorned with beautiful mansions. PÉRIGUEUX Commercial and craft activities developed, and new ideas & +33 (0)5 53 53 00 92 emerged with Étienne de La Boétie. The city retained its www.perigueux-vesunna.fr plume until the eighteenth century and decline begins [email protected] because of its geographic isolation. In the end, it will be onlm a chance for the city. Closed two weeks in January. High season: open every day In 1962, André Malraux introduced an Act on trotected from 10am to 7pm. From April to June and in September: areas, and Sarlat-la-Caneda was the first to benefit. For Tuesday to Friday from 9.30am to 5.30pm, weekend and 25 years, successive restorations revived the medieval public holidays from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm city. Recent repaving streets and gaslight extended to 6pm. From October to March: Tuesday to Friday from the operation. Today Sarlat-la-Caneda is the first city 9.30am to 12.30pm and from 1.30pm to 5pm, weekend in Europe by number of listed buildings per m2 with from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm. Adult: 11 ha, 253 buildings, 18 monuments and 59 listed E6. Reduced rate: E4. Free for under 6-year-olds, monuments. This is a real gem, witness of medieval recipients of social minimums, disabled people and their and Renaissance eras. Sarlat-la-Caneda truly found his guide. Tourism label & Disability. Shop. Activities. breath and splendor season, revealing more modestly Located in the heart of the ancient city, on the remains narrow alleys, courtyards, mansions assimilating all ages of a vast residence of the first century, this museum is (medieval foundations, floors Renaissance, classical roofs). unique in France by its concept, of which the architecture Another specificity of Sarlat-la-Caneda, is the roofing of glass and steel was designed by Jean Nouvel. Vesunna slate. This is the famous limestone plates, affixed to is organized around two architectural spaces designed roofs representing a weight of 500 kg to 850 kg per m2. 13

Château de Castelnaud. © Jimjag – Fotolia 14

La Roque-Gageac. © Imagsan – iStockphoto

Failing to cover large areas of mountain or wetlands, small or large forest areas, meadows, fields of crops, Perigord derives its great natural wealth from its contact vineyards, woods and hedgerows, moors and wetlands, situation between contrasted geographical factors. The rivers and ponds, calcareous grasslands, or traditional landscapes are characterized by a fine interweaving of hamlets scattered surrounded by old orchards ...

Geography DI S COV E RY The department of Dordogne is named after the Dordogne ocean façade of Europe. However, frequent continental river which takes its source at the foot of the Sancy and influences lower winter temperatures. joins the Garonne at the Ambes beak, after a journey wwTemperatures: the temperature is soft and pleasant ; of 472 km. It crosses the department from east to west but it varies in a considerable way between north and in the southern part. Dordogne integrates most of the south of the department, average deviations of 2°C in Aquitaine Basin and its north-east fringe to the Massif summer against 10°C to 15°C in winter. On average, the Central. Great by its history, the Périgord is also famous for highest temperature is 27°c to 32°C , and the lowest its proportions: 100 km from east to west, 100 kilometers 2 temperatures of 10° to 14 degrees below zero. Three from north to south for almost 9,200 km . The third French reasons can explain this phenomenon : first and foremost, department by its surface after the Landes and Gironde, due to the altitude. Then, according to the nature of the soil has nothing uniform: a hike in the gorge of Auvézère is an and the exhibition. Finally, from the valleys, the jumble of experience through steep trails in the Massif Central and the hills, the profile and the exhibition of the slopes, the a trip to the vineyards of Bergerac recalls inevitably the essarts, forests, the ponds which contribute to a more or neighbouring Bordeaux. From one to the other, a world less marked create a range of microclimates. Typically, the of opposites mingle and false similarities, set of colours first fall frost appear in Oct. 21 in the centre and east of and shapes, inseparable lands that make up a single trip. the department. Eight and fifteen days later, they appear The Dordogne is part of the Aquitaine basin, its relief in the areas of large valleys and the lower heights. Then, is low and the climate is undergoing some oceanic influences. 45% of its surface is forested and it is also around on November 11th, 20 days later, it is the turn of the third forest department of France. Set astride the marked heights. A phenomenon identical, but opposite, Aquitaine sedimentary basin and backing onto the intervenes for the last frost of spring, always according crystalline basement of the Massif Central, Perigord is to topography. The difference observed for the last frost often called the “transition countries” as the diversity of dates between sites valleys and heights sites is about the landscape is amazing. This rugged terrain is due to 3 weeks, and generally ranges from 1 April to 16 April, the combination of a dense hydrological network and reaching exceptionally May 1. Therefore the temperature disparate geological structure. We distinguish a mosaic is colder on the borders of Limousin, foothills of the Massif of individual countries even within the Perigord. They Central, than in the lower valleys and the part covered were grouped into four tourist areas, commonly called with wood. In the same way, the temperature is colder on “The 4 Périgord ‘Périgord Vert, the Périgord Blanc, the the granites of Nontronais than on chalks and limestone Périgord Pourpre and the Périgord Noir. specific to the Aquitaine sedimentary pool. In addition to these variations in temperature between north and south, also note a permanent instability of the time that results Climate in the alternation of a large sun, rain showers, often in Although located at the same latitude as Montreal or the same day. This instability is due to the clash of warm Vladivostok, Périgord enjoys a climate of the oceanic tropical air masses and cold polar air over the Atlantic type, eminently temperate, thanks to the influence of Ocean. Prevailing winds are from the east-southeast the Gulf Stream, where warm water comes to heat the autumn and winter, and west-northwest summer. The Dordogne awarded by Unesco The International Coordinating Council of MAB (Man and the Biosphere) of UNESCO listed in 2012 the Dordogne basin in the global network of biosphere reserves. This measure concerns the river, its source, the puy du Sancy, to the mouth of the Gironde, on an area of 24 000 m². It includes the tributaries and the six departments watered by the River: Puy-de-Dôme, Cantal, Corrèze, Lot, the Dordogne and the Gironde estuary. This label is attributed to sites that have a great environmental richness and preserve their natural balance. 16 Nature

wwSunshine: the sun is in the range of 1 900-2 000 hours wwCaves and chasms: the caves and chasms are located annually from north to south of the Dordogne. At mainly along the Dordogne Valleys and Vézère, especially Bergerac, the least sunny year for the last ten years was in Périgord in Eyzies and Montignac. in 1992 with 1,710 hours and the sunniest was 1989 with wwGeology: The 4 Périgord each have geological 2300 hours. In winter the sun is more important in Sarlat characteristics. on the Ribéracois, due to a slightly continental influence Le Périgord vert is backed by the crystal base of the Massif on the east and the relief of the department, while further Central. There are rocks formed by the primary era like west, the oceanic influence brings smoothness but fog granites of Piègut, gneiss of La Coquille, crystalline schist or low clouds. In spring, summer and autumn sunshine de Lanouaille. The metal minerals, lead and zinc are also duration is stronger on the southwestern department present, as well as quartz (Saint-Paul-la-Roche) but also than elsewhere. gold as in Jumilhac-le-Grand. wwRainfall: the Dordogne is quite watered with an In the centre of the department, Périgord Blanc is the average water depth of 860 mm. Certain amounts of country of the plateaux of clay and limestone on the water collected in storm can be very important as the white and grey ground often covered with calcareous 100 mm recorded on 17 May 1971 at the station of clay layer favourable to the forest and strawberry. It Bergerac. The least rainy region is Bergerac with an is also the country of the large fields criss-crossed by average 112 days per year and 800 mm. The wettest Auvézère and Isle, without forgetting the poor soil made area is the Nontronnais with 1160 mm Piégut-Plovers. of gravel and sand and clay of La Double, between L’isle Winter and spring are very wet often exceeding 90 mm; and the Dronne. summer is very dry with an average minimum of 40 mm Le Périgord Pourpre south enjoys sediments deposited of rain, autumn is the best season. There are rarely falls at the time of the erosion of the Pyrenees and the Massif of snow and never in abundance, although it is not Central. uncommon in the Perigord Vert. Périgord Noir east consists of a bedrock of Cretaceous wwWind: Prevailing winds are from the east-south-east limestone conducive to “rock shelters” and other cave in fall and winter, and west-northwest in summer. dwellings. Erosion has carved the cracked rocks causing sinkholes, chasms, caves, dry valleys where groundwater are lost. Clay deposits accumulated discontinuously during Relief the Tertiary period have contributed to the diversity of wwCharacteristic of the landscapes: mainly plains, the landscapes of this region. valleys and some hills. wwForests and wood: The forest which represents 45% wwValleys and water courses: the Dordogne is named of the territory spread everywhere is the green lung after the Dordogne river which takes its source at the foot of the Perigord. Like a mosaic of rich leaf essences, it of the Sancy and joins the Garonne at the Ambes beak, occupies the territory alternating with woods and culture after a journey of 472 km. It crosses the department from and clay-limestone soil where the famous wild orchids east to west in the southern part. Dordogne integrates grow, but also the truffles of Perigord black diamonds. most of the Aquitaine Basin and in its north-east fringe to wwMarshes: the largest marsh in the department is the Massif Central. From north-east to south-west rivers the Groléjac with an area of 25 ha. It was converted with many streams as tributaries flow: Dropt, Dordogne, into a recreation body of water while preserving the Vézère, Auvézère Dronne. nature of the bog. © Air Images – Shutterstock.com © Air

Beynac-et-Cazenac. The 4 Perigords Perigord. Hautefort up to Montpon, through Périgueux, Périgord Blanc includes among others, the towns of Set up astride the Aquitaine sedimentary basin and Savignac-les-Eglises, Sorges, Saint-Astier, Neuvic and backing onto the crystalline basement of the Massif Musselburgh. Périgueux, Roman and renaissance city, Central Perigord is often called the “transition country” capital of Périgord, is undoubtedly the major attraction as the diversity of the landscape is amazing. This rugged of this region. Located in the centre of the department, terrain is due to the combination of a dense hydrological the Périgord Blanc is the land of limestone plateaus with network and disparate geological structure. We distin- chalky whites and gray soils often covered with a clay- guish a mosaic of individual countries even within the limestone layer favorable to the forest and strawberry. Perigord. They were grouped into four tourist areas, It is also the country of wide meadows crisscrossed by commonly called “the 4 Perigord”: the Périgord Vert, the Auvézère and the Isle, without forgetting the poor soil Périgord Blanc, the Périgord Poupre and Périgord Noir. composed of sand and gravel Clay of La Double, between ww Perigord Vert. The term “ Périgord Vert “ was already the Isle and Dronne. used in the travel notes of Jules Verne, which is particu- wwPérigord Pourpre. The name “ Perigord Pourpre” is larly suitable for this hilly and generously watered green the most recent. It dates from the early 1990s. The purple lush, appropriate for tourism ... “green.” It is the country colour evokes the dominant colours of the vine, and the with a neat clearly dominant orientation to polyculture autumn colours of the Bessède forest. The area affected farming . A country that exudes well- being and tradition! by the Dordogne, is virtually the district of Bergerac, Originally , the term “ Périgord Vert “ applied only to excluding the cantons of St. Alvère and Buisson, but limousine parts of the department, corresponding to extended to that of Villefranche -du -Périgord. From the region of “ Nontronnais .” Added to it the countries Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne up to Villefranche-du- of Dronne, it is the whole North of Dordogne which Périgord, through Bergerac, Perigord Pourpre counts, is included. Located in the northern department, the among others, the towns of Montcaret, Vélines, Sigoulès, green Perigord is backed by the crystalline basement Issigeac, Monbazillac Lalinde, Beaumont, Monpazier and of the Massif Central. There are therefore rocks formed Eymet. Bergerac, the capital of Périgord Pourpre, worth in the primary era, prior to the Carboniferous: Piègut a detour. Erosion, which attacked the Massif Central, granites, gneiss La Coquille, crystalline schists Lanouaille. has filed sediments of gravel, sand and clay that have Also present metal ores, lead and zinc, as well as quartz accumulated in the depressions of the Double Landais, (Saint-Paul-la-Roche). Note finally, the presence of gold the Bessède, as well as around Villefranche-Lonchat. In as evidenced by the gold gallery of Jumilhac. Bergerac the erosion of the Pyrenees deposited sediment wwPérigord Blanc. The term “Périgord Blanc” in the form of molasses, alternating with deposits of hard traditionally refers to the white limestone plateaus lacustrine limestones of the tertiary era. Enjoying a mild of Ribéracois-Verteillacois (which now belong to the climate, thanks to the fertility of the alluvial valley of the Périgord Vert). These well-cleared agricultural areas Dordogne, southern cultures flourish: corn, sunflower, opposed the densely forested areas of Sarlat which were orchards, tobacco, while in the south lie the grain fields called black Périgord. Today, this appellation is attributed and Ente plum orchards (that is to say graft). But the to the country of Périgueux, the Isle Valley down to the main attraction of this area is its famous vineyards, west and the Auvézère up towards the east. White is now rich in 13 appellations, covering the undulating hills of the limestone cliffs of Saint-Astier, and stones of Causse limestone and sandstone. 18 Nature

ww Périgord Noir. The name “Perigord Noir” refers to Domme. It should be noted that Sarlat-la-Caneda-la- the high density of holm oaks or oaks whose foliage Caneda is the European city with the most registered is dense, dark and persistent. This designation is the or classified monuments per square kilometre. Périgord oldest, and its popularity on the tourist market has led Noir consists of a bedrock of Cretaceous limestone the Dordogne Departmental Committee of Tourism to conducive to “rock shelters” and other cave habitats propose a division of Périgord in four major visit and (along the Vézère near Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, or Dordogne stay areas. Périgord Noir essentially corresponds to near Beynac and La Roque-gageac). Erosion has carved the district of Sarlat-la-Caneda plus the cantons of the cracked rocks causing sinkholes, chasms, caves, Thenon Sainte-Alvère and Buisson, but minus that of dry valleys where groundwater are lost. Clay deposits Villefranche-du-Périgord. This is by far the most visited accumulated discontinuously during the Tertiary period of the department because of the many world-famous have contributed to the diversity of the landscapes of prehistoric sites (Les Eyzies, Lascaux), the medieval town this region. Finally, the large amplitude of climatic of Sarlat-la-Caneda-la-Caneda region, the castles of the variations of the Quaternary shaped the hydraulic Dordogne valley (Montfort, Beynac, Castelnaud) and system and designed the valleys that we know today. Fauna & Flora

Fauna Parks & Nature Reserves wwReptiles: grass snakes and vipers. The Dordogne has a regional nature park of the périgord- limousin which overlaps two regions (the Aquitaine wwBirds: the biodiversity of the department supports and Limousin) and two departments (Dordogne and the presence of many birds. The cliffs well represented Haute-Vienne). (See the Inevitable ones). in Périgord accommodate rare and protected species : peregrine falcon, large corbeau, genette and tichodrôme. Nature Reserves wwFish: the Dordogne river has 40 fish species, including 8 migratory species including the sturgeon, the Atlantic The Dordogne has three natural reserves: Liorac in salmon, eel, the Allis shad, the alose feints, the fluviatile Bergerac (428 ha), Marshes of Groléjac (15 ha) in black lamprey, the marine lamprey, sea trout. You can also fish Périgord and Peyssac (80 ha) in white Périgord. carp, pike, pins, bleaks trout, etc. wwInsects: the insects found throughout the countryside Animal Parks are mosquitoes, bees, wasps and recently the Asian Frelon. There are six wildlife parks in the department: Aquarium of Périgord noir to Bugue, Le Thot with Thonac, the animal farm Touron with Campsegret, the zoo, the Mescoulès Flora zoological reserve of Calviac and the regional park of wwTrees, bushes: There are mainly broad-leaved trees périgord-limousin. like the oak trees (32%), and chestnut trees (26%); the maritime pine represents 25% of the coniferous trees. Gardens The renewed interest for gardens in recent years was an opportunity for a renewal of Perigord parks, many

© Phovoir of which are now open to visitors. Behind every garden, there is a story. To discover them, push the gate of these extraordinary places dotted around our beautiful province ... You will make amazing discoveries in finding there a bit of past generations’ art. Some are so large they give the illusion of living in the countryside. You can see some who are full of exotics and you just need to go there to find yourself at the other end of the world. There are those who have been drawn as the triumphal route to a palace and which betray the pride of their creator. Other, more intimate, offer a place of meditation and inspiration to poets, philosophers and writers ... There are also those that are the result of curiosity or science whose interminable Latin names still increase their strangeness. Finally, there are those that show a time or art: they draw the landscape as a baroque Gothic-inspired architecture or Renaissance, the French influences, Italian or English. Geese of the South West. HISTORY

Department “of Perigueux” or “Périgord” was created by Middle Ages decision of the Constituent Assembly on 25 January 1790. It was not until a month later, on 26 February 1790 that the Périgord was included in the territory that the weak name of Dordogne was retained after the final adoption emperor Honorius handed over to the barbarians of the list of French departments. The Dordogne was (Visigoth), whose numerous hordes invaded the south formed almost of all the former province of Périgord of Gaul. Since then, this province shared the fate of the (786,048 hectares) and part of Agen (99,250 hectares), kingdom of the Visigoths until Clovis Ist, king of the DI S COV E RY both countries belonging to the former Guyenne and that a Franks, had Alaric defeated in Vouillé in 507. Before Clovis portion of the Limousin (25,858 hectares) and Angoumois had been baptized, Christianity had already penetrated (30,250 hectares). Since 1972, when the 22 French regions the Périgord for one or two centuries ago. It was said to were created, the Dordogne is attached to Aquitaine. have been introduced by St. Front, a contemporary disciple of Christ. On the tomb of St. Front, a chapel was built in the sixth century, and towards the end of the tenth century, Prehistory the abbey soon grouped around it a lot of houses. Thus The prehistory science was born here, in Périgord, in arose the town of Puy-Saint-Front, which soon will be the late nineteenth century. The eponymous times, of equal importance with the city of Vésone (Périgueux), Magdalenian, Mousterian, Gravettian, etc..have proved from which it had so quickly evolved. Perigord was then to us after a long sleep. In the valley of the Vézère, involved in all the vicissitudes which agitated Aquitaine Abbe Breuil, Leroi-Gourhan, Denis Peyrony and many in its fight against the mayors of the palace. It belonged others have tried to read the traces left by our ancestors successively to Clotaire I, Guntram, Childebert II, Clotaire 32,000 years ago. II and Dagobert. In 630, it was included in the treaty that The new National Museum of Eyzies provides the founded the kingdom of Toulouse, where the dukes of knowledge needed to better appreciate the visit of caves Aquitaine ruled. Charlemagne, on his way to Spain, and deposits, Font-de-Gaume, Rouffignac, and many crossed the county of Périgord, where he founded the others, especially the jewel of Lascaux (17,000 years), priory of Trémolat, and gave the government of that closed since 1963 for conservation reasons but compen- province to Vidbode, whose successors remained unknown sated by a quite disturbing replica. Latest discovery to until Wulgrin, which was the first of its hereditary counts, date, the cave houses Cussac panels engraved with animal and which the people who admired his courage gave the figures and traces of 22,000 years old, as well as human nickname Taillefer, because of his successful exploits bone remains (closed to visitors). against the Normans, who were beginning to ravage Aquitaine. Through a marriage which took place in 970, the county came under the control of the house of the Antiquity March, which was then headed by Helie I, a cruel man, When the Romans entered this part of Gaul which now whose end was miserable. This count is the first who forms the Dordogne, it was occupied by the Petrocorii, a took the name Talleyrand, illustrated by four generations Gallic tribe, whose name after various changes made in later. His successor Adalbert, led by his warlike mood to the language of the time, is found in the name of Périgord, the walls of Tours, in pursuit of the Count of Blois, found which was that of the province of which we will promptly himself face to face with Hugues Capet. This prince, too tell the story. The historic period preceding the period in weak to repel the aggressor, sent this request: “Who which the conquest of Gaul by the Romans took place made you Count? “Without deigning to reply, Adalbert , there is little documentation. We only know that the made him turn this question: “ Who made you king? “ people of this country, Celts originally practiced religion The Count of Périgord was in fact sovereign just like the of the Druids, to which they were strongly attached. The Count of Paris. Seventy-two years that elapsed between city of Vesunna (Périgueux), at an earlier age in our the year 1158 and 1240 - the same period of the wars time, was already a flourishing city. The Phoenicians of against the English – were filled by the rivalry that broke Marseille came there to exchange the goods from the out between the town of Puy-Saint-Front and city of Levant. This province was subject to Rome, for sixty-three Périgueux, fomented by the Count of Perigord on the years, when Caesar came for the first time in Gaul. After one hand, and the abbot of Saint-Front on the other, the defeat of Vercingetorix, which the Pétrocoriens had who claimed to exercise in the village some manorial sent a rescue of 5,000 men, Caesar ordered one of his rights. But finally, in 1240, the free city joined the town lieutenants to compress the patriotic impulses aroused released from any obligation to the count, and the in this country by the glorious struggle which had just conflicts ceased. In the twelfth century, the marriage finished. The Pétrocoriens took part in the revolt of of Eléonore of Aquitaine with Henry II Plantagenet gave Vindex, who, wishing to overthrow the Emperor Nero Périgord to the English. The counts of Périgord joined to had offered the empire to Galba (69). This revolt was all efforts that have been made to free the French soil quelled by Virginius Rufus. from foreign yoke. 20 History

The country was militarily occupied; many fortresses of the reformed religion that was beginning to spread erected, but during this long and disastrous war in France. Few provinces were proven with such cruelty. period, which lasted from Louis the Young to Charles Périgueux was important that each party would naturally VII, if too often these people were forced to undergo try to win. The fight was also often concentrated in this the yoke of foreigners we can say to their credit that unfortunate city. Devoted to the king’s party, it was they never accepted. Resistance that the main cities of surprised in 1575 by Langoiran and Vivans, Protestant Périgord opposed to the English was always glorious and leaders, who settled there. It even became one of the sometimes triumphant. In 1356, Périgueux repulsed the safe havens of Protestants under the Edict of 1576, and enemy three times, who only managed to settle in the they kept it until 1581, when it fell under the power of city thanks to the Treaty of Brétigny (1360), signed by Catholics. Most major cities of the province experienced King John, the loser of Poitiers. Happier than Perigueux, the same vicissitudes as the capital. Bergerac, that firstly Sarlat-la-Caneda-la-Caneda did not fall in the hands of became the boulevard of Protestantism, was taken by the the English, it agreed only at the end of the fourteenth Catholics in 1562. But they were driven out a year later. century, to grant them the right to trade with its inha- This unfortunate town was taken and retaken several bitants. Of the various vicissitudes experienced by the times again, until finally it was obliged to surrender to province in this evil day, you can have a fair idea seeing Louis XIII who razed its fortifications, as a punishment in the space of two centuries, how many times it has for being associated with the fate of the Dukes of Rohan changed sovereign. The county of Périgord returned and Force, leaders of the Protestant party. Ribérac and to France in 1224, it was returned to England in 1258, Nontron did not escape the scourge of war either. The first, and then confiscated by Philip the Fair in 1294, returned in 1568, was a refuge for Reformed debris troops who, again to England in 1303, conquered by Philip of Valois, it under the orders of Mouvans, were beaten by the Duke was assigned a third time to the English by the Treaty of of Montpensier, around Mensignac. In 1592, the cities of Brétigny (1360) and then conquered by Charles V, King Périgord, Périgueux, among others, were influenced by of France given under English rule towards the end of the League, but with the accession of Henry IV any hint of the reign of Charles VI, and finally definitively acquired rebellion disappeared. When the troubles of the Fronde by the Crown in 1454. This county, confiscated in the burst, and while Sarlat-la-Caneda drove the Prince de name of Archambaud V (1391), was sold to Jean de Conde who entered its walls and ser a garrison, Périgueux Bretagne, count of Penthièvre and Viscount of Limoges; were required by the same prince to house a garrison later Antoine de Bourbon accepted it as a dowry, and, by commanded by the Marquis of Chanlost, talented but its Henri IV son, it was punited to France. very cruel man. The Marquis de Chanlost kept this city to the Prince of Conde, until Joseph Bodin, helped a few From The Renaissance intrepid citizens , handed under the authority of the king. The Marquis having learned that a conspiracy was formed To The Revolution against him , marched at the head of many troops, to The era of disastrous wars against foreigners had just the house of Bodin , the leader of the conspirators, but ended that another terrible one will start, bloodiest he had no sooner entered recklessly, with thirty men in perhaps, because the influence exerted in this province by a dark and narrow corridor, he was received by Bodin the house of Albi will surprisingly facilitate the progress and his friends decided to resist to death. © S. Nicolas – Iconotec © S. Nicolas

Aurochs in the Lascaux caves. History 21

From the first shock, Chanlost was mortally wounded, and his demoralized soldiers soon had fled (16 September 1653). During the seventeenth century, the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, issued by Henry IV in favor of © I-dordogne – Fotolia Protestants, was a severe blow to the department where the reform had taken deep roots. The town of Bergerac especially had much to suffer. Part of this population of this rich and industrious city was forced to emigrate. This department, throughout the course of the eighteenth century, has been the scene of no disorder or event that deserves to be reported, and when the Revolution broke out in 1789, apart from some inevitable unrest, representatives of Romme and Lakanal succedded in DISCOVERY maintaining, even in the most critical moments, order and tranquility. From The Revolution To The 21st Century For centuries the peasant condition hardly changed in the Dordogne. In 1899 Eugène Le Roy publishes Jacquou le Croquant, a so striking story that it’s hard to admit that Jacquou never existed. This novel recounts the suffering of countrysides that are not extinguished even in the nineteenth century when the Republic was gradually set in France. The nobles lost a little ground but bourgeois The tour de Vésone in Perigueux. took their place. Dordogne will have difficulty to turn his web in this well-established left earth. He arrived in the page of old notables and the Empire. To this is added Périgord in the 60s, implements the Post Seals Printing the Masonic influence. Bergerac is the first city to light house of Boulazac in 1968, when he was Minister of fires in 1747. A few years later it was the turn of Sarlat Posts and Telecommunications. Périgueux mayor from and Périgueux. Elected officials of the Third Republic in 1971 to 1997, he will also be, General Counsel, Member Perigord have no particle but they are doctors, lawyers, of Parliament and Senator. He will face several times in teachers and later craftsmen or traders. They are far another future minister, parachuted into Périgord, Roland from revolutionaries, but they defend the essential Dumas, who defeated him at the legislative particularly in humanistic values. They were radicals who dominated 1981. Appointed to the Constitutional Council in 1997 by the political scene throughout the Third Republic. Their Jacques Chirac, Yves Guéna will besides replace Roland impact began to crumble in 1936 because they are Dumas at the presidency of the Constitutional Council torn between the left alliance and centrist alternative as the age dean ... Being forced to resign from all his rather right. Blum is surrounded by some of them as elective office, his successor at City Hall will be another Delbos or Suzanne Lacorre, both of Périgord. World future Minister Xavier Darcos. War II has hit the department where Resistance was organized early in the countryside. Municipalities suffered reprisals: Mouleydier near Bergerac was burnt down by Nowadays the Germans in 1944 after a fierce battle. Masonry has Xavier Darcos, appointed minister of National Education played an important role. And Camille Bedin, a brother of by François Fillon in 2007, comes back to Périgueux Tolerance, was the only member who refused périgourdin onlyduring the weekend. The inhabitants made him full powers to Pétin in 1940. pay the price for his absence in 2007 during municipal After the war the Dordogne resumed its rather “peaceful” elections. He was beaten at the elections by socialist land. The General Council will be chaired by the radical Michel Moyrand, vice president of the Conseil régional leftist Robert Lacoste born in Azerat where he was mayor. (the Regional Council), by a few votes. He also lost the Finance officer, CGT union member, he participated in regional elections in 2010, losing his post as Minister the Resistance. In 1956 he became minister-resident and for Work to which he had been nominated in 2009 and Governor-General of Algeria until May 1958. Supporter of definitely retires from Périgueux. the high way, he was a major player in the war in Algeria Today the Conseil général (General Council), chaired by and defended its maintenance in the French Republic. Berbard Cazeau, a former doctor, is always left-wing, He served in the National Assembly from 1962 to 1967. having known only two years of right-wing presidency From 1971 to 1980, he was elected socialist senator from 1992 to 1994. The two senators are socialist and of the Dordogne, while assuming, from 1974 to 1979, among the four deputees, there are three socialists, vice-president of the Aquitaine Regional Council and including a woman and an ecologist. The cities of the Presidency of the General Council. Périgueux, Bergerac and Ribérac are also in the hands Meanwhile Yves Guéna, a Breton married to a Perigord, of the socialists. Nontron and Sarlat are in the hands Compagnon de la Libréation of Charles de Gaulle, weaves of the UMP. PÉRIGORD GASTRONOMY

Périgord gastronomy does not need much advertizing for The tourin it to be widely known. Périgord necessarily rhyme with The tourin – or tourain – whitened to garlic is a specia- good food and simple happiness. If the Périgord cuisine were invented partly by peasants, it was also worked lity of Périgord. It is the soup which is served to the out in the castles where people used to feast with game newlyweds during their wedding night. The tradition from hunting, fish provided by the rivers and wines that is that only the witnesses are aware of the place where the Romans had brought with them. It is therefore a land they sleep. Guests still standing, prepare the tourin of memory of gourmet culture that was illustrated for a in a large pot, then search for newlyweds, in order to time by the image of a mother Denis that wasn’t doing comfort them after a long tiring day and night. Once the washing but was rather cooking in a pot hanging on they have found the couple, they serve them the soup the inglenook. The picture is not quite true nowadays, but in a chamber pot... the cuisine is very close to the soil and restaurants cling to the typical Perigord menus always in high demand by Local Produce tourists. Another phenomenon appeared for many years Perigord’s soil is an extraordinary garden where chestnuts, and continues to develop: the farm-inns. The farmers strawberries, nuts or grapes can be found alongside discovered this way of making both ends meet by creating the famous black diamond, this mysterious mushroom the guest tables where 70% of the products served must whose scientific name is melanosporum. Here recipes come from the farm. The prices are often lower than those are passed down from generation to generation. The of restaurateurs and sometimes served in gargantuan secrets of the tourin whitened with garlic and of the quantities ... eggs with truffles are never revealed, neither is the art of cooking and tasting foie gras in all its forms, not even Local Specialities the know-how of picking porcini mushrooms, chanterelles or morels. These skilled and popular know-hows, these Local specialties follow recipes rooted in collective grandmother’s recipes, have now become the pride of memory and transmitted from mother to daughter. good restaurants. The pleasure of good wine accompanies They have been passed on since the the time when the this gastronomic tradition. It was the Romans who pig was the animal providing meals almost all year to the whole family. Meat was kept in toupines covered planted the first vines, and later on, during the Middle with fat, hams were dried, etc. All restaurants serve Ages, wine developed in the valley of the Dordogne. confit pork, called enchaud. Another specialty: fat, i.e. all The bergerac vineyards stretch out in terraces above that can be made with geese and ducks fat, such as foie the river. Spread over 93 towns and more than 12 000 gras, duck confit or gizzard confit. Among the desserts, hectares, these vinyards offer an exceptional diversity we must mention nut cake as well as the millassou, a with thirteen AOC. Goose and duck fat are also part of soft pumpkin cake. the treasures this land harbors. The paté of Périgueux Meat, Poultry & Game The pâté of Périgueux is special because it meets precise wwLamb of Périgord. The Perigord Lamb obtained ingredients and standards. It even gave its name to an PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) in 2011. In a confraternity, the brotherhood of Périgueux Pâté 2004, it had already been certified Label Rouge. Lambs perpetuating the competition for the best Périgueux are reared by the mother for two months and then, once pâté. A guaranteed charter respecting the recipe, always weaned, they are fed with fodder and grain. They are at least one third of foie gras and truffles. then sold to the age of four months, unlike the lamb from

Turin blanched with garlic wwIngredients: 1 tablespoon of duck fat, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1 small head of garlic, 1 liter of water, 1 egg, Vermicelli or 10 slices of stale bread. wwRecipe. Peel the garlic clove, finely slice them. Fry them in duck fat gently, without browning them. Add a little flour, mix carrefully but don’t let it stick, then add water. Let it boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Then separate the white from the yolk. Poach the white into the soup and add the vermicelli. Separately, mix the yolk with a drop of vinegar and then add a tablespoon of hot broth. Off the heat, stir in the yellow soup. Put pepper and salt and give it back a little stocks. You can remove the vermicelli and put stale bread in the soup. INDEX 237

GAUGEAC...... 190 MONPAZIER...... 188 GOUFFRE DE PROUMEYSSAC...... 81 MONTAGRIER...... 225 GRAND-BRASSAC...... 225 MONTCARET...... 190 GRANGE-D’ANS...... 102 MONTIGNAC-LASCAUX...... 112 GROLEJAC...... 147 MONTPAZIER...... 11 GROTTE DE BARA-BAHAU...... 81 MONTPON-MENESTEROL...... 57 GROTTE DE BERNIFAL...... 110 MOULEYDIER...... 178 GROTTE DU GRAND ROC...... 104 MOULIN DE LA ROUZIQUE (LE)...... 180 GROTTES DE DOMME...... 96 MOULIN DE LA VEYSSIÈRE...... 62 GROTTES DE MAXANGE (LES)...... 86 MUSÉE COSTI...... 168 MUSÉE D’ART ET D’ARCHEOLOGIE DU PERIGORD...... 35 MUSÉE DE LA BATELLERIE...... 193 H n MUSÉE DE LA PIERRE TAILLÉE (MAREUIL)...... 215 HABITATS TROGLODYTIQUES DE BELVÈS (LES)...... 165 MUSÉE DE LA VILLE (BERGERAC)...... 168 HAUTEFORT...... 99 MUSÉE DES ARTS ET TRADITIONS POPULAIRES DU PERIGORD...... 60 MUSÉE DU CHOCOLAT BOVETTI...... 152 I n MUSÉE FERNAND-DESMOULIN...... 201 INTERNATIONAL PÔLE OF PREHISTORY MUSÉE MILITAIRE DU PÉRIGORD...... 40 (LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC)...... 104 MUSÉE NATIONAL DE PRÉHISTOIRE (LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC).....104 ISSAC...... 61 MUSSIDAN...... 60 ISSIGEAC...... 182 N n J n NAILHAC...... 102 JARDIN BOTANIQUE D’ALAIJE...... 201 NAUSSANNES...... 164 JARDIN DE LA DAILLE...... 96 NEUVIC-SUR-L’ISLE...... 61 JARDIN DE LA FERME FLEURIE (LE)...... 118 NOJALS-ET-CLOTTE...... 164 JARDIN DE VÉSONE...... 35 NONTRON...... 216 JARDINS DE CADIOT (LES)...... 91 JARDINS DE L’IMAGINAIRE (LES) (TERRASSON-LAVILLEDIEU)...... 152 P n JARDINS TRANQUILLES OR JARDINS D’AU DELÀ...... 201 PALAIOS (LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC)...... 104 INDEX JUMILHAC-LE-GRAND...... 213 PARC À THÈME LE BOURNAT...... 81 PARC ARCHÉOLOGIQUE (BEYNAC)...... 74 PARC ET JARDINS DU CHÂTEAU DE HAUTEFORT...... 100 L n PARCOUL...... 229 LABYRINTHE DE L’ERMITE (LE)...... 96 PAUNAT...... 121 LALINDE...... 182 PAYZAC...... 211 LAMONZIE-MONTASTRUC...... 176 PERIGORD BLANC (WHITE PERIGORD)...... 34 LANOUAILLE...... 211 PERIGORD NOIR (BLACK PERIGORD)...... 74 LEMBRAS...... 176 PERIGORD POURPRE (PURPLE PERIGORD)...... 164 LILIAN LONGAUD...... 57 PERIGORD VERT (GREEN PERIGORD)...... 198 LIMEUIL...... 183 PERIGUEUX...... 34 LISLE...... 199 PETIT-BERSAC...... 226 LUNAS...... 176 PEYRIGNAC...... 157 PEYZAC-LE-MOUSTIER...... 106 PIEGUT-PLUVIERS...... 219 M n PÔLE EXPERIMENTAL MÉTIERS D’ART...... 216 MAISON DE LA CHÂTAIGNE...... 158 POMPORT...... 178 MAISON DE LA PIERRE SÈCHE...... 94 PORT-SAINTE-FOY-ET-PONCHAPT...... 193 MAISON DU FOIE GRAS (THIVIERS)...... 231 PRATS-DE-CARLUX...... 92 MAISON DU PATRIMOINE (TERRASSON-LAVILLEDIEU)...... 152 PROISSANS...... 147 MAISONS DE LA DOUBLE (NEUVIC-SUR-L’ISLE)...... 62 MANOIR DE GISSON...... 129 n MAREUIL...... 214 R MARQUAY-SIREUIL...... 108 RIBAGNAC...... 188 MARSAC-SUR-L’ISLE...... 56 RIBERAC...... 223 MAUZENS-ET-MIREMONT...... 85 ROCHE-CHALAIS (LA)...... 228 MENESPLET...... 58 ROQUE-GAGEAC (LA)...... 118 MESCOULES...... 177 ROUFFIGNAC-SAINT-CERNIN-DE-REILHAC...... 120 MEYRALS...... 110 MIALET...... 234 MILHAC-DE-NONTRON...... 219 S n MONBAZILLAC...... 184 SAINT-ANDRE-D’ALLAS...... 111 MONESTIER...... 177 SAINT-ANDRE-DE-DOUBLE...... 63 MONFAUCON...... 177 SAINT-ANTOINE-DE-BREUILH...... 178 238 INDEX

SAINT-ASTIER...... 63 SARLAT-LA-CANEDA...... 12, 126 SAINT-AULAYE...... 230 SARLIAC-SUR-L’ISLE...... 68 SAINT-AVIT-DE-VIALARD...... 85 SARRAZAC...... 235 SAINT-AVIT-SENIEUR...... 89 SAUSSIGNAC...... 179 SAINT-BARTHELEMY-DE-BUSSIERE...... 219 SAVIGNAC-LEDRIER...... 213 SAINT-CHAMASSY...... 85 SIGOULES...... 188 SAINT-CIRQ...... 106 SIORAC-DE-RIBERAC...... 227 SAINT-CREPIN-DE-RICHEMONT...... 199 SIORAC-EN-PERIGORD...... 90 SAINT-CREPIN-ET-CARLUCET...... 125 SITE ARCHEOLOGIQUE (MONTCARET)...... 190 SAINT-CYBRANET...... 94 SITE DU REGOURDOU...... 112 SAINT-CYPRIEN...... 122 SITE-MUSÉE GALLO-ROMAIN VESUNNA...... 40 SAINTE-ALVERE...... 121 SORGES...... 66 SAINTE-FOY-LA-GRANDE...... 192 SAINTE-MONDANE...... 92 SAINTE-NATHALENE...... 148 T – U n SAINT-ESTEPHE...... 220 TAMNIES...... 107 SAINT-FRONT-DE-PRADOUX...... 61 TERRASSON-LAVILLEDIEU...... 150 SAINT-FRONT-SUR-NIZONNE...... 220 TEYJAT...... 222 SAINT-GENIES...... 126 THENON...... 149 SAINT-GEORGES-DE-MONTCLARD...... 70 THIVIERS...... 231 SAINT-JEAN-DE-COLE...... 230 THONAC...... 107 SAINT-JULIEN-DE-BOURDEILLES...... 206 THOT, ESPACE CRO-MAGNON (LE)...... 112 SAINT-LAURENT-DES-VIGNES...... 179 TOCANE-SAINT-APRE...... 227 SAINT-LEON-SUR-VEZERE...... 123 TOUR-BLANCHE (LA)...... 199 SAINT-MARTIAL-D’ARTENSET...... 58 TOURTOIRAC...... 102 SAINT-MARTIAL-DE-VALETTE...... 220 TREMOLAT...... 90 SAINT-MAYME-DE-PEREYROL...... 70 TURSAC...... 107 SAINT-MEARD-DE-GURÇON...... 59 USINES A CHAUX...... 64 SAINT-MEDARD-D’EXCIDEUIL...... 212 SAINT-MICHEL-DE-MONTAIGNE...... 191 SAINT-NEXANS...... 179 V n SAINT-PARDOUX-LA-RIVIERE...... 221 VALEUIL...... 199 SAINT-PIERRE-DE-CHIGNAC...... 66 VANXAINS...... 227 SAINT-POMPONT...... 166 VARAIGNES...... 222 SAINT-PRIVAT-DES-PRES...... 226 VAUNAC...... 235 SAINT-RABIER...... 157 VELINES...... 191 SAINT-REMY...... 59 VENDOIRE...... 215 SAINT-ROMAIN-ET-SAINT-CLEMENT...... 234 VERGT...... 69 SAINT-SAUD-LACOUSSIERE...... 221 VEZAC...... 79 SAINT-VINCENT-DE-CONNEZAC...... 226 VIEUX-MAREUIL...... 215 SAINT-VINCENT-DE-COSSE...... 78 VILLAMBLARD...... 194 SAINT-VINCENT-LE-PALUEL...... 148 VILLARS...... 207 SALIGNAC-EYVIGUES...... 123 VILLEFRANCHE-DE-LONCHAT...... 191 SALLE DES FAÏENCES...... 231 VILLEFRANCHE-DU-PERIGORD...... 158 SARLANDE...... 213 VITRAC-MONTFORT...... 159 Ncuisinier – Fotolia Ncuisinier © ©

Le château de Bourdeilles.