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Criatividade, Experiência E Patrimônio Cultural [Recurso Eletrônico] / Organizadores: Joice Lavandoski, Adriana Brambilla, Elídio Vanzella

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Criatividade, Experiência E Patrimônio Cultural [Recurso Eletrônico] / Organizadores: Joice Lavandoski, Adriana Brambilla, Elídio Vanzella UNIVERSIDADE FEDERAL DA PARAÍBA CENTRO DE COMUNICAÇÃO, TURISMO E ARTES REITORA MARGARETH DE FÁTIMA FORMIGA DINIZ VICE-REITOR BERNARDINA MARIA JUVENAL FREIRE DE OLIVEIRA Diretor do CCTA JOSÉ DAVID CAMPOS FERNANDES Vice-Diretor ULISSES CARVALHO SILVA Edi t or a do CCTA Conselho Editorial CARLOS JOSÉ CARTAXO GABRIEL BECHARA FILHO HILDEBERTO BARBOSA DE ARAÚJO JOSÉ DAVID CAMPOS FERNANDES MARCÍLIO FAGNER ONOFRE Editor JOSÉ DAVID CAMPOS FERNANDES Secretário do Conselho Editorial PAULO VIEIRA Laboratório de Jornalismo e Editoração Coordenador PEDRO NUNES FILHO A&C & © Copyright by GCET, 2018 Produção Gráfica ELÍDIO VANZELLA Capa FELICIANO DE MEDEIROS BARBOSA NETO GRUPO DE CULTURA E ESTUDOS EM TURISMO Ficha catalográfica Ficha catalográfica elaborada na Biblioteca Setorial do CCTA da Universidade Federal da Paraíba A411 Alimentação e turismo: criatividade, experiência e patrimônio cultural [recurso eletrônico] / Organizadores: Joice Lavandoski, Adriana Brambilla, Elídio Vanzella. - João Pessoa: Editora do CCTA, 2019. 415 p. : il. – (Série Alimentação & Cultura) Recurso digital (4,7 MG) Formato: ePDF Requisito do Sistema: Adobe Acrobat Reader Modo de acesso: CCTA open access ISBN: 978-85-9559-139-4 1. Turismo Gastronômico. 2. Cultura e Gastronomia. 3. Culinária – Patrimônio cultural. I. Lavandoski, Joice. II. Brambilla, Adriana. III. Vanzella, Elídio. IV. Título. UFPB/BS-CCTA CDU: 338.48-6:641/642 Direitos desta edição reservados à: GELINS/UFS Impresso no Brasil Printed in Brazil Depósito legal na Biblioteca Nacional, conforme decreto n° 1.825, de 20 de dezembro de 1907. A&C & Adriana Brambilla (UFPB/CCTA/DTH/GCET) Elídio Vanzella (UFPB-GCET/ UNIFUTURO) Maria Amália Silva Alves de Oliveira (PPGMS/UNIRIO) Joice Lavandoski (DETUR/UNIRIO) Rodrigo Machado Vilani (DETUR/PPGEC/UNIRIO) SUMÁRIO TURISMO FERROVIÁRIO GASTRONÔMICO NO BRASIL E EM PORTUGAL: reflexões preliminares a partir da história, memória e criatividade ...................................................................................... 21 FRAGA, Carla; BORGES, Vera Lúcia Bogéa; ALMEIDA, Claudia Ribeiro de PRESERVAÇÃO DA IDENTIDADE CULTURAL ATRAVÉS DOS BARES E BOTEQUINS CARIOCAS ........ 39 LAVANDOSKI, Joice; GIGLIO, Gabriel O POTENCIAL DA CULINÁRIA TRADICIONAL PARA O TURISMO NA REGIÃO DO PARQUE NACIONAL SERRA DA CAPIVARA, PIAUÍ .......................................................................................................... 71 SANTOS, Glaubia de Sousa; TRICÁRICO, Luciano Torres; ROSSINI, Diva de Mello; CARVALHO JÚNIOR, Domingos Alves de LA GASTRONOMÍA COMO RECURSO DE LA EXPERIENCIA TURÍSTICA. EL CASO DE ESPAÑA ........ 101 ARAÚJO VILA, Noelia; FRAIZ BREA, Jose Antonio; CARDOSO, Lucília GASTRONOMIA DE CAMPOS DO JORDÃO Uma análise histórica de sua formação ....................... 123 CUNHA, Ana Lúcia EXPERIÊNCIA GASTRONÔMICA NO PERU DE ACORDO COM A PERSPECTIVA DOS TURISTAS ...... 143 KRAUS, Isabela Belli; KRAUS, Camila Belli; ZUCCO, Fabrícia Durieux; KRAUSE, Rodolfo Wendhausen ESTUDO EXPLORATÓRIO ACERCA DA GASTRONOMIA REGIONAL ENQUANTO ATRATIVO TURÍSTICO: O caso do litoral cearense ......................................................................................... 171 COSTA, Moisés; MAPURUNGA, Gláudia CULTURA E SABOR: um olhar sobre a gastronomia típica e o turismo de João Pessoa-PB/ Brasil 199 NASCIMENTO, Polímnia Niágara Santos Silva Rodrigues; OLIVEIRA, Sofia Araujo de CULINÁRIA E GASTRONOMIA: entre o local e o global ................................................................ 225 BRETTAS, Luiz Fernando de Melo BELÉM, CIDADE CRIATIVA DA GASTRONOMIA: uma Amazônia de sabores e de experiências turísticas ...................................................................................................................................... 255 LOBATO, Flavio Henrique Souza; AIRES, Jamyle Cristine Abreu; RAVENA- CAÑETE, Voyner A CULINÁRIA ENQUANTO PATRIMÔNIO LOCAL E RECURSO TURÍSTICO ...................................... 285 PAIVA, Lílian Pacheco Ferreira; TRICÁRICO, Luciano Torres; TOMELIN, Carlos Alberto „A COMER TAMBÉM A GENTE SE ENTENDE‟: o poder da gastronomia ......................................... 301 ALMEIDA, Maria Mota; MARTINS, Graça Isabel Nunes; PIRES, Luís Tomaz O TURISMO GASTRONÔMICO COMO UM FATOR DINAMIZADOR DAS CULTURAS LOCAIS E DAS ECONOMIAS DOS DESTINOS: o caso do centro das tapioqueiras em Fortaleza ............................. 347 MARTINS, Uiara; COSTA, Carlos PREFÁCIO É uma honra escrever o prefácio de um livro que tem entre as organizadoras, uma aluna destacada como a Joice Lavandoski, com a qual já realizei várias pesquisas, aluna que está superando à professora. Desde que a gastronomia não é exatamente a minha especialidade, focarei em aspectos mais antropológicos e históricos relacionados ao tema. Já nos primeiros registros das atividades dos humanos, aparece a obtenção e preparação dos alimentos como sendo sua principal tarefa. Obtenção mediante a caça, executada pelos homens, e a coleta de frutos e trituração de grãos executada pelas mulheres, afazeres que ocupavam a maior parte do tempo das pessoas. A cocção dos alimentos, possível a partir da descoberta do fogo favoreceu não apenas a incorporação da carne à dieta humana, mas também o fator gregário. As pessoas se reuniam em volta da fogueira, enquanto a comida se cozinhava e, depois, para comer. Conversas? Récitas? Canções? Não sabemos. Os vestígios coletados pelos arqueólogos não apresentam evidências mais detalhadas e muita coisa é inferida do comportamento de culturas ágrafas que foram estudadas durante as primeiras incursões dos antropólogos a partir do século XX, no continente africano e em ilhas do Pacífico. Enquanto que a alimentação é universal, e todos os seres vivos a necessitam para preservar a vida, a partir da culinária o alimento passa a ser uma questão cultural, variando conforme etnia, nacionalidade ou classe social. A culinária ordena os alimentos por hierarquias e inclusive determina o que é permitido comer, em função de determinantes culturais. Passando ao universo da restauração e a gastronomia, na Europa, comer fora de casa até o século XVII mais ou menos, era exclusivo dos viajantes e não era necessariamente agradável, desde que os padrões de higiene nos deixariam bastante constrangidos na atualidade. No seu livro das pousadas, Desideria, de 1523, Erasmo de Rotterdam conta uma cena panorâmica de uma taverna alemã onde, numa mesa coletiva, uma pessoa está engraxando as botas, outra escarrando, e quando trazem a comida numa grande travessa todos mergulham o pão com os dedos, tiram, comem e voltam mergulhar...... O primeiro restaurante com esse nome aparece em 1765, quando um empresário que vendia sopas para restaurar a energia das pessoas (bouillon restaurant), decide ampliar sua proposta e coloca mesas individuais para as pessoas sentarem a tomar a sopa. Pouco depois Monsieur Boulanger como era conhecido, embora seu nome fosse Mathurin Rose de Chantoiseau, começou a oferecer outros pratos feitos, como pés de ovelha ao molho branco, com isto entrando num conflito com a corporação da carne, mas não entraremos nesses detalhes. No entanto, o livro Guinnes de recordes reconhece como sendo o restaurante mais antigo do mundo a ―El sobrino de Botin‖, na cidade espanhola de Madrid, fundado em 1725. Pouco tempo depois, em 1782 abriu, também em Paris, La grande taverne de Londres, de Antoine Bauvilliers que se auto define como ―primeiro restaurante a ter uma sala elegante, camareiros bem vestidos, adega selecionada e cozinha de grande qualidade‖. A revolução francesa (1789) propiciou que muitos cozinheiros de famílias nobres deixassem o serviço doméstico e abrissem seus próprios restaurantes. Havia naquele ano em Paris quase cem restaurantes, e o número cresceu exponencialmente chegando no ano de 1810 a dois mil restaurantes, marcando a presença da culinária francesa até os nossos dias. A comida em restaurants permite, até hoje, que as pessoas não pertencentes à nobreza se sintam tratadas como tais, com os garçons oferecendo os serviços que outrora os criados ofereciam. A cerimônia da retirada da cadeira para sentar, a baixela diferenciada para cada prato, o ritual de quais pratos e talheres utilizar em cada momento da refeição, assim como as taças e copos, são praticados hoje da mesma forma que na França do século XVIII. Nos últimos 50 anos o hábito de comer fora de casa tem se generalizado para as classes médias e também para as classes populares que, normalmente devido à distância entre o trabalho e a casa, adotaram o hábito de almoçar em restaurantes; este hábito foi favorecido pelo surgimento de restaurantes mais econômicos, com serviços mais simples e os agora populares buffets onde os pratos são colocados numa mesa central, e as pessoas se servem, pagando ou bem por peso ou bem de acordo como um fixo, conforme seja a oferta da casa. Note-se que este modelo não surgiu necessariamente como oferta popular mas tem seu antecedente no smörgåsbord, um buffet escandinavo que começou a ser servido em 1939 na feira mundial de Nova Iorque, com pratos frios e quentes em porções pequenas. A preparação elaborada das comidas deu lugar à arte culinária, que implica em rituais, e o valor nutritivo dos alimentos passou a ser substituído por valores simbólicos e, neste sentido cada cultura é peculiar. E, não menos importante, para as diferentes culturas há alimentos comestíveis e alimentos não comestíveis. Elementos que são iguarias em alguns países ocasionam rejeição, em outros. Muitos povos comem insetos, vísceras de boi ou bovídeos, ou animais que para outras culturas são
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