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Check-in SEOUL Check-in SEOUL Entering Seoul

Check-in Seoul is a travel guide Seoul’s Subway and Public Bikes 04 CULTURE Keys to the City for visitors looking to experience Seoul Landmarks 06 the city’s culture and see the ’ Getting the Most Out of Seoul 08 Boppin in the City of K-pop 50 real Seoul. I Love Seoul! 14 Experience Millennia of Music History 51 Seoul’s Cultural Landmarks 52 Cultural Revival 54

Getting the Most Out of Seoul 18 Culture Walk Along 56

HIP PLACES Traveler’s Wishlist STREET Tour of Daily Life on Seoul’s Streets

Seongsu-dong: “Holy Water” Area 22 Ikseon-dong: -Heavy Alleyways 62 Euljiro is Hipjiro 24 Bukchon and : Traditional and Night Markets: Former Nobles’ Villages Turned Trendy 'Hoods 64 As Ordinary as Seoul Can Get 28 Garosu-gil: Gangnam Trendsetter 68 Myeong-dong: Songnidan-gil: Other Side of Skyscrapers 69 Seoul’s Quintessential Shopping District 29 Seoul Style Spots 30

I’ll Be Back, Seoul! 72 Travel Memories 74 HISTORY The Layers of 2,000 Years of Rich History Seoul Directory 76

Joseon ’s Royal Space 38 Jeongdong-gil Street: Stroll Through ’s Modernization History 42 Donuimun Museum Village: 100 Years Condensed into One Village 44 Seoul, Here We Come! Ui-Sinseol LRT

Daegok Yeonsinnae Bulgwang 4

Sungshin Women’s University Seoul has an excellent public transportation network. ’ In addition to buses and taxis, the city’s subway and public Seoul s Subway and Public Bikes bikes make inner-city travel even more convenient. Public bike The subway is the most convenient way to travel to and from rentals are next to subway stations and throughout the city at the airport and in and around the city. Master Seoul’s public Bomun an average interval of 500 meters. Download the Seoul Public bike system called Ttareungyi to make your trip even better. 6 Bike app and use a public bike for just 1,000 won per hour. No membership registration is required. Subway: seoulmetro.co.kr/en Seoul Public Bike: bikeseoul.com Gimpo Int’l Gajwa Gyeongui- 3(sam)-ga Cheongnyangni Hoegi Airport Dongdaemun Sinseol-dong

Incheon Int’l Magongnaru Digital Media Airport Railroad Jungnang Airport Express City Euljiro Dongdaemun 4(sa)-ga History & Culture Park Chungjeongno City Hall Sindang 5 Wangsimni Euljiro 3(sam)- ga

Cheonggu Gunja Chungmuro

Hongik Univ

Seoul Yaksu Seongsu 2 Gongdeok

Hapjeong Konkuk Univ.

Hyochang Samgakji Park

Oksu Gangbyeon Dangsan

Yongsan Gangnam-gu Office Yeongdeungpo-gu Ichon Kkachisan Office

Cheonho 7 Singil Noryangjin Sindorim Dongjak

Guro Jamsil Express Bus Terminal 9

Chongshin Univ. Daerim (Isu) Seonjeongneung Seokchon

Onsu Gasan Digital Complex Sports 8 Complex

Seoul National Sosa University of Bupyeong 1 Sadang Education Gangnam Seolleung

Geumcheon-gu 3 Office Nambu Bus Terminal Seoul at a Glance Nowon-gu Dobong-gu

Gangbuk-gu

Seoul is a fascinating city with traces of its rich history and rapid modernization in every corner. Standing tall in the center is the Seoul Landmarks iconic 1 . The area comprising 2 , 3 Square, and Palace is the city’s Seoul is divided into 25 districts and stretches heart, set in the old royal capital and representing the city’s history along with the 4 Seoul City Wall. 5 , 6 34.78 kilometers from east to west and 30.3 kilometers Seoul , 7 Gocheok Sky Dome, 8 , and 9 Oil Tank Culture Park are among the capital’s from north to south. Surrounded by mountains Eunpyeong-gu leading cultural symbols. 10 Seoul COEX and World Trade Center Seoul, 11 the skyscraper 63 Square, and 12 Lotte World Tower are and intersected by a river, the capital is home to state-of-the art structures that accentuate Seoul’s dazzling modernization and advanced technology. The mountains that surround approximately 10 million residents. the city, 13 Hangang River parks, 14 Seoul Botanic Park, 15 the elevated linear park Seoullo 7017, and 16 Forest Park are where Seoulites can relax in nature.

Seongbuk-gu Jungnang-gu 5 5

3 3

Dongdaemun-gu

4 4 Jongno-gu 2 2 Seodaemun-gu

9 9 15 15 Mapo-gu 8 8

14 Jung-gu 16 16

Seongdong-gu

Gangseo-gu Gwangjin-gu 1 1 Gangdong-gu

Yongsan-gu

11 11 11 11 13 13

Yangcheon-gu Yeongdeungpo-gu

6 6 12 12 10 10

Songpa-gu Dongjak-gu

7 7 Seocho-gu Gangnam-gu Guro-gu

Geumcheon-gu Gwanak-gu Enjoy Seoul to the Fullest

Discover Seoul-stalgia Snap Shots with I SEOUL U Mom-and-pop shops and traditional Where should you take photos to markets5 evoke memories of and affection for 6best memorialize your Seoul visit? The most yesteryear, and this is where city residents popular spot is the giant I SEOUL U sign at truly open up. Traditional open-air markets Yeouido , and a snap in front like , Dongdaemun, Tongin, of the sign captures N Seoul Tower in the and Gwangjang are rich in regional and distance. Or strike a pose in front of the I urban history, while mom-and-pop stores SEOUL U sign at other locations like Seoul are hotbeds of individual recollections. Plaza, , Oil Tank Culture Park, To preserve these memories, the city and Dongdaemun Design Plaza. government has even set up a certification english.visitseoul.net system for “longstanding stores.” Getting the Most Out of Seoul Longstanding stores: seoulstory.kr Seoul is never boring, not even for a second. The World Convenes in Seoul The following tips can make your stay even more fun and rewarding. Recognized as the world’s best city for Ubiquitous Free Wi-Fi MICE8 (meetings, incentives, conferences, and Seoulites cannot imagine life without exhibitions) for four consecutive years, Seoul Wi-Fi.7 The city offers free and strong public hosts major global conferences and fairs every Wi-Fi at popular tourist spots like year. From the decades-old Korea Electronics Happening Hangang River Discover Seoul Pass and Park. This handy service is being Show to Seoul Fashion Week, Seoul Design The Hangang River running through The Discover Seoul Pass has three gradually expanded to cover subway lines, Week, and Seoul Living Design Fair, the city 1the city offers a natural getaway. Take a walk 2functions–a transit (T-money) card, a ticket bus stops on exclusive median bus lanes and offers a plethora of events wildly popular even on the small island of Yeouido, check out art to key city attractions and a coupon to shuttle buses throughout the city. with the general public. In 2020, Seoul is slated exhibitions at Hangang Art Park in the Ichon- receive an array of discounts– making it a to host a world summit of Nobel Peace Prize dong neighborhood, or pitch a tent at Nanji must-have to travel around the city. Choose laureates. Check out the Seoul COEX website Campground or Yeouido Hangang Park. Every from the one-, two-, or three-day pass and for a schedule of major events. summer, people cool off from the sweltering heat the physical card or mobile pass. MICE Seoul: miceseoul.com at the Hangang Summer Festival, and the Seoul discoverseoulpass.com Seoul COEX: Coexcenter.com Bamdokkaebi Night Market runs from spring through fall at both Yeouido Hangang Park and Banpo Hangang Park. Watch the river’s bridges Travel Anywhere by Bus dazzlingly light up while taking an evening cruise. For a quick and convenient way to The parks in Yeouido and Jamsil both have docks 10see all of Seoul’s major attractions, hop on the where people can board boats for a river cruise. Seoul City Bus Tour. Among the courses to hangang.seoul.go.kr choose from are the Downtown Palace Namsan All Night Long Panorama, Gangnam, or Night courses. The Walk in Nature Seoul is a city that truly never sleeps, DMZ course is also highly popular. To get out of Seoul offers many places to reconnect with9 food delivery available 24/7 and daily the city, the K-Travel Bus offers tour packages City of Shows with4 nature through walking or relaxation essentials shipped to your door at the crack of exclusively for international travelers that take Though K-pop fans flock to the capital outside the Hangang River. Go on the hiking dawn, so the city literally and figuratively shines them all over Korea on one-, two-, 3in fall for the Seoul Music Festival, the city trail leading up to N Seoul Tower, an iconic at night. Those seeking to party all night should three-, or four-day trips. has something to offer every season, whether part of the city’s skyline; visit Gyeongui Line head to , , or Gangnam Subway Seoul City Bus Tour: seoulcitybus.com traditional drum performances in spring or Forest Park, which was transformed from an Station. Aside from trendy nightclubs and K-Travel Bus: k-travelbus.com traditional music or ballad concerts in summer. abandoned railway line; explore the eight unique night markets, other nocturnal delights Young buskers draw crowds throughout the gates and the trails along the old city fortress include midnight film screenings, bookstores city regardless of season in Hongdae, , walls; and take on the eight hiking courses on stocked with foreign-language selections, late- , or parks along the Hangang River. the 15 mountains surrounding the city. night gatherings, and other cultural events.

08 09 Hangang River 서울 풍경

Bukhansan and Cheongdam-dong My Seoul Experience

In the past, I was all about Insa-dong, but these days, I liked the old city and the I like the wild nights of Hongdae. On a clear day, I like fortress walls that surround it, the memorable view of Gyeongbokgung Palace and its Gyeongbokgung Palace and the mountain backdrop from Gwanghwamun Square. I also Memorial. Visiting the like art galleries like the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, I did a food tour, trying lots of different DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and trying dishes. On a clear day with good weather, the Arario Gallery, and the National Museum of Modern different styles of food also stick I hiked Bukhansan Mountain. I’m also and Contemporary Art, Korea. out in my mind. Next time I’d like interested in Koreans’ makeup style and - Paul Kerry, United Kingdom to visit Itaewon, Insa-dong, and the kimchi-making process, so I’d like to Palace and try learn more about those on my next visit. more new foods and restaurants. - Huiqi Sun, - Rob Navis, Netherlands

I think Seoul is defined by modern buildings and lifestyles mixing in with places of rich tradition and history. A walk along the trails of the old city wall demonstrates this perfectly. One minute you feel like you’re in ancient Seoul, and the next, you’re transported back to modern times by the I Love Seoul! sight of skyscrapers and high-rise apartments. On the journey from Namsan Mountain and To some, Seoul represents just everyday life, but to others, the city is a fascinating travel destination. down Gyeongnidan-gil Street to Itaewon, you I’ve been to Seoul over 10 The following seasoned visitors describe their favorite experiences in the city. can encounter a mix of cultures in the area. The times, and I still love Korean variety of culture, food, and people makes you barbecue every time. I think feel like the neighborhood really welcomes guests I’ll look for a new barbecue from all over the world. place on my next visit, too. - Tom Skodda, Germany - Bob Tor, Singapore

I liked the palaces and the small temples. I also We stayed near Gyeongnidan- gil Street for 15 days. I enjoyed liked wandering the streets of Insa-dong and just the narrow alleys leading up relaxing in a café. When I went to a traditional to Namsan Mountain. Banpo house, it was interesting to watch the tea [being Hangang River Park and the made] on a small tea tray. I enjoyed renting other Hangang River parks (traditional Korean attire) and going to were nice. Now that I know I’ve been to Seoul a few ’ I was surprised by Seoul’s advanced and convenient the palaces, so I d like to do those again. The view that getting a breath of nature times for business, and the ’ technology. The people are also friendly, and the entire from N Seoul Tower and Myeong-dong s street within the city is what’s great most striking things for me city feels very friendly toward tourists. food were also great. about Seoul, I’d like to spend are the friendly people, the - Singh Rishiraj, India - Saskia Theilmann, France more time at parks and green restaurants that never close spaces next time. and a sauna in Itaewon. - Christophe Willocx, Belgium - Joe Heather,

14 15 It’s been a little over three months since I first came to Seoul, and I’ve already been here I like taking a walk in the park or going on a picnic about 10 times. My favorite parts of the city with my kids. Namsan Park is the perfect place to are the mountains of Dobongsan and Namsan, relax in nature and take a walk. It’s easy to find, safe the numerous restaurants in Itaewon and and clean. In that respect, I also like Hangang River Hannam-dong, and Myeong-dong. The history parks and Yongsan Family Park. Other than parks, I really like Gyeongdong Market of Gyeongbokgung Palace, with its stories of Seoul has a lot of places to enjoy with your family, I like Bukhansan National in the Jegi-dong area. If I come Korea’s origins, is fascinating, and taking a both indoors and outdoors. Park and the temples in to Seoul again, I want to visit breath of fresh air while walking along Hangang - José Pérez, Guatemala Seoul. The designer shops more traditional markets. River Parks was a great experience. are also fun. To enjoy Seoul - Frederick Christoffel Truter, - Roger Marti, Switzerland with your family, take them South Africa on a bike ride along the Hangang River and get some Korean barbecue afterward. - Miho Tachiiri Schroeder,

Trying more new restaurants, I’ve been to Seoul around six or I stayed in Seoul for 10 days going to more old temples, riding seven times, and every time I visit, and found the palaces, the along the Hangang River on a this city seems to keep developing. markets and the various Seoul public bike. . . I wanted to do Above all, it’s really clean. museums of traditional Korean more of these things, but five days - Joe Thye, Malaysia culture the most fascinating. proved too short. Personally, I also liked the - Andreu Lucio, Spain parks and Seongdong-gu I still haven’t been to many famous spots in district. Seoul, but one of my favorites is Bukchon - Gerold Leppa, Italy Hanok Village. Walking through the narrow alleyways, you can see traditional Korean houses and try on traditional Korean clothing. It feels like you’ve slipped back into the past. Hiking Namsan Mountain is a must for travelers. I also recommend shopping What struck me was the friendliness and the convenience. A lot of places in Dongdaemun. Not only are a ton of are open 24/7, so you can go outside at any time and find something to do. clothes and shoes there, there are plenty of There’s no time to be bored. I also really like Hangang River parks. You can restaurants and cafés for taking a break. walk along the river while taking in the cherry blossoms of Yeouido Park amid - Xiwei Zhu, China a backdrop of cutting-edge skyscrapers. One of the places I visit most often is Insa-dong, with its beautiful handicrafts and quaint traditional restaurants and tea houses. If I were to recommend any Seoul spots, they would be Insa-dong, Itaewon is my favorite part of Seoul. Myeong-dong with its street food (showing just how crowded Seoul can be), the I’m also interested in the Gangnam abundant items to shop for in Dongdaemun, the phenomenal views and natural area and the Korean War Memorial, surroundings of N Seoul Tower, and Bukchon Hanok Village with its rich history. but haven’t gone to either yet. - Isolde Fast, Austria - Achille Atisso, Togo

16 17 Getting the Most Out of Seoul What do you want to do most in Seoul? Many foreign visitors pick shopping, followed by foodie tours and seeing palaces and historical sites. Of course, that’s far from everything; they also want to experience what Seoulites enjoy and do things that might be foreign to visitors but are common to locals. They want to feel the charms of the real Seoul hidden in the old markets and alleyways. For these people, we’ve compiled a list of hotspots representing what the Seoul of today is truly like. HIP PLACES Traveler’s Wishlist

One of the joys of traveling is discovering things while exploring venues off the beaten path. Two of Seoul’s hottest neighborhoods right now are Seongsu-dong and Euljiro. A common denominator is that both areas were production centers during Korea’s rapid industrialization. During the 1970s and '80s, the sound of machinery never stopped in these two districts, but as times changed and the domestic economy evolved, urban production centers suffered a decline. Technicians and craftsmen went elsewhere, numerous factories, workshops and markets shut down, and facilities inevitably fell into disrepair. The setup of Seoul Forest, however, spurred designers and artists to launch new businesses at old factories and workshops, leading to the birth of the hip area Seongsu-dong. Euljiro’s revival came with the rebirth of the Sewoon Shopping Center, Korea’s first electronics market. Artsy spaces began popping up amid old stores that sold electronics, tools and lighting equipment, breathing new life into the area. Euljiro developed a unique ambience that eventually earned it the nickname “Hipjiro.” Cross the Hangang River into Gangnam-gu District to find spots that lead the city’s styles and trends: Apgujeong-dong’s Rodeo Street, Cheongdam- dong, and Sinsa-dong’s Garosu-gil Street. In the 1990s, Rodeo Street led the way for Korean trends and fashion, and Cheongdam-dong rose in prominence thanks to its chic galleries and boutique shops. Influenced by both areas, Garosu-gil Street has undergone the most change but is lined with stores featuring famous brands, both domestic and international, and trendy eateries, making it more crowded than the other two areas.

OrEr, a café in Seongsu-dong HIP PLACES

Seongsu-dong: Homage to Seoul’s Industrial Past Seongsu Yeonbang Until the 1990s, Seongsu-dong was Korea’s largest producer of handmade shoes and housed factories producing leather, however, is probably Amore Seongsu, which accessories and shoe parts. The aptly boasts the latest K-beauty trends. After named Handmade Shoe Street still has a checking in online, visitors can go to this few workshops and shops left. What truly converted car repair shop to have their faces stands out here, however, are the red-brick cleaned and pampered with a meticulously factories, warehouses, and cozy residences. categorized collection of over 2,300 beauty Leaving the original factory and warehouse products spanning more than 30 brands. facades, the buildings have been converted Seongsu Yeonbang, a renovated chemical into company marketing sites and trendy factory, is a mini-mall that houses lifestyle shops, cafés, and restaurants. brand Thingool Store and curated bookstore The originator of this trend is Daerim Arc N Book. Seongsu Yeonbang Pavilion, Warehouse, a former rice mill and warehouse where numerous exhibitions and cultural converted into a café and gallery. As events are held, is a photogenic hotspot Seongsu-dong’s first industrial café, Daerim for obligatory social media posts. OrEr is an hosts art exhibits and fashion shows. old red-brick building on Handmade Shoe Cafés like Zagmachi, a former print shop, Street revamped into a multifaceted space Common Ground and Café Onion, a converted metal factory, with a café on the first floor, a lounge, and a are also must-visit establishments in the stationery shop on the second, and a vintage neighborhood. The hottest joint here, multi-brand shop on the third. In addition, From Industrial Center to Creative Cultural Space the basement features a pop-up store that Seongsu-dong: Over the past few years, up-and-coming designers changes every month. “Holy Water” Area and young artists have moved to Seongsu-dong, sparking a cultural renaissance. Many shopping Formerly an industrial neighborhood filled complexes have also popped up there. Between with factories, Seongsu-dong is now home Konkuk University Station and Seongsu-dong is an to artists and designers, cafés and cultural eye-catching collection of around 200 blue shipping spaces. Its unique vibe attracts both containers that form the shopping mall Common millennials searching for chic and Ground. This fashionable space sprang up on a entrepreneurs looking to launch startups. former taxi parking lot, turning a once desolate area “ ” “ ” Seongsu literally means holy water, and into a bustling urban playground. In addition to Seongsu-dong has plenty of creativity regular and pop-up stores from promising designers, flowing through. Common Ground also hosts numerous festivals. Supply Seoul, a cultural space launched in 2014, is co-operated by artist Kwangho, who has blurred the lines between design and art on the global stage; knit designer Misu a Barbe; and design studio Arr. The space also hosts a variety of exhibitions. A walk in Seongsu-dong is never complete without a stroll in Seoul Forest. This spacious cultural and ecological arena lets people relax and recharge. Seoul Forest: 273, Ttukseom-ro, Seongdong-gu; seoulforest.or.kr/english

Common Ground’s Market Hall Amore Seongsu © Namgoong Sun

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Redefining Hip Many Hipjiro establishments don’t bother In the Realm of the Senses advertising their locations or business types with a sign or any sort of marker. A superficial glance at Hyemindang recalls images of Analog Area Hyeminseo, a government-run clinic for the Hipjiro is home to places that evoke poor during the Dynasty era, but little memories of the analog or pre-digital era. else. Across the street is Hanyakbang, Mangwoosamlim is an old-school photography a curious designation for its use of the studio that develops rolls of film. Owned by a Korean term for “traditional medicine maker” diehard fan of vintage Hong Kong cinema, the after coffee. Hotel Soosunwha shatters studio has an interior inspired by classic Hong preconceptions in being anything but a hotel. Kong flicks, and its name is taken from Forget While these places might appear to lack Your Worries Forest in Taiwan. A gathering sincerity or customer friendliness, this is all place for classic camera geeks, the studio part of the Hipjiro vibe. Hyemindang sits on offers a fascinating collection of vintage films. the site of the clinic, but it offers sweet and In the Realm of the Senses is a music bar that cute desserts rather than medicine. Coffee helped spawn the Hipjiro phenomenon. The Hanyakbang is a café that roasts its own place caters to the penchant by today’s youth beans, and Soosunwha is a café and bar. for off-color humor, gaudiness, and retro- Hipjiro comprises a maze of alleyways filled fixation for things considered useless. The with hidden gems that make visitors ask interior is adorned with things like a bathhouse themselves “Am I going the right way?” table for body scrubbing and a retro arcade machine. At night, a DJ pumps up the volume as the place transforms into a club.

Euljiro alleyways

Euljiro is Hipjiro It used to be impossible to discuss electronics, machinery, tools, printing presses, tiles, pottery, lighting, paint, acrylics, and woodwork in Seoul without mentioning Euljiro. Today, it’s impossible to mention Euljiro without saying the word “hip.” Coffee Hanyakbang

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Hipjiro HQ: 3F of Sewoon Shopping Center Sewoon Shopping Center, the epicenter of Sewoon’s electronics market Euljiro culture, is home to several hotspots that have quickly gained a major following on social media. Horangi (Tiger) Café, known for its lattes, Stores of Old has the word “tiger” printed on a simple wooden Euljiro is filled with restaurants as old as the sign in pure Hipjiro fashion. Its neighbors area itself. Eulji Myeonok is one of Seoul’s big include Imelda Bunsik, Guum Yanggwa (famous three for Pyeongyang-style naengmyeon (cold for its French pastry canelé), and the craft beer noodles); Joseonok has specialized in beef bar Ggeek Beer Company. Follow the pedestrian short ribs for 80 years; Andongjang is a Chinese walkway to Sewoon Daelim Shopping Center restaurant opened in 1948; Ogu Banjeom is to find the independently owned Connected known for its Chinese-style fried dumplings; Bookstore. This store takes in just one new Yangmiok serves cow intestine barbecue; and book each week and specializes in titles about Yinamjang is famous for seolleongtang (ox- music. Connected is also a neighborhood bone soup). Long-time naengmyeon joints like Dasi Sewoon, Sewoon Shopping Center gathering place as it regularly hosts late-night Wooraeok and Pyeongnaeok have continued book discussions and film screenings. their traditions by adding branches. These Sewoon Shopping Center: establishments are relics from when Euljiro was Electronics Markets and Dried Pollock 159, -ro, Jung-gu the city’s manufacturing hub. Golbaengi Alley, In the 1970s and '80s, Euljiro was at the center of Seoul’s the southern neighbor of Nogari Alley, is where industrialization and urbanization. The area had everything print shops used to be but now hosts workers from professional technicians for an array of electronics thirsty for beer after a hard day’s work. and machinery to all tools or materials. Sewoon Market, the Golbaengi Alley: city’s first all-purpose marketplace, was born in 1968 and Exit 11, Euljiro 3-ga Station, Jung-gu eventually evolved into a one-stop shopping and electronics mecca for master craftsmen and technicians, parts and components, semiconductors, audio equipment, surveillance cameras, arcade machines, and lighting. Centered around Sewoon Market, an electronics market prospered in the area. With the appearance of Yongsan Electronics Market and the decline of urban manufacturing, however, Sewoon deteriorated into a shadow of itself. Recent efforts toward urban regeneration have sought to revive the area. The project “Remake Sewoon” recruited master technicians in old and new industries alike such as 3D printing. The emergence of “newtro,” a contemporary twist on retro, has caused young people to flock to the old alleyways to hit bars specializing in dried pollack, where blue-collar workers and technicians used to grab a beer after a hard day’s work. Nogari Alley is where young hipsters turn on their GPS to find eateries with plastic tables and chairs, the smell of pollock on charcoal grills and the sight of the flags of numerous nations hanging above. Nogari Alley: Exit 4, Euljiro 3-ga Station, Jung-gu

Euljiro Nogari Alley Horangi Café

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Myeong-dong: Seoul’s Quintessential Shopping District Illuminated by bright neon signs, Myeong-dong is one of Seoul’s busiest areas and perfect for the shop-til-you-drop traveler. Just be prepared to Myeong-dong street food deal with the masses of like-minded humanity there.

The most vibrant section of Myeong-dong is around the main shopping street, a pedestrian walkway stretching a little over 700 meters. It starts at Exit 4 of Myeong-dong Station, passes Myeong-dong Theater and Myeongdong 6-gil and 8-gil avenues and ends at Euljiro Il-ga Station. A shopping mecca, Myeong-dong offers everything from major cosmetic and fashion brands to discount clothing and souvenirs and is also packed with restaurants. The street intersects with various avenues and passes Myeongdong Theater, which was built in 1934. Two of Seoul’s oldest department stores as well as a leading duty-free shop are also in the vicinity. Myeong-dong gives a sense of just how densely populated Seoul is. As if there weren’t enough choices to eat, a squadron of food trucks

Banpo Hangang River Park during the Seoul Bamdokkaebi Night Market arrive here in late afternoon. The restaurant scene covers the culinary spectrum of Korean, Western, Japanese, family- style cuisine, and fast food. Two gastronomic landmarks are Myeongdong Tonkatsu and Myeongdong Kyoja. As an old Korean saying goes, to learn about a place’s Traditional and Night traditions and history, go to its markets. , a leading Seoul landmark, has hundreds of years Markets: As Ordinary of history behind it. Known during the Joseon Dynasty as Seoul Can Get era as Chilpae Market, Namdaemun today attracts around 400,000 visitors in a single day. Gwangjang Market has Traditional markets are where Seoulites are evolved into a popular date spot, selling everything seen in their daily routines and thus where from hanbok to imported goods, bindaetteok (mung visitors can get to know city residents. bean pancake), gimbap, yukhoe (beef tartare), red bean A wealth of culture and individual stories porridge, and twisted donuts, intriguing enough to even complements the abundant food and drink. entice Hollywood stars to stop by. From April to October, street food stands every Friday and Saturday night dot the landscapes of Yeouido Hangang Park, Banpo Hangang Park, Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Cheonggyecheon Stream, and Oil Tank Culture Park. Food trucks and a bustling atmosphere are part of the Seoul Bamdokkaebi Night Market, an event in which the city’s major spots become night markets. There are plenty of things to eat and see underneath the dazzling lights of the Hangang River. For late-night shopping, head to Dongdaemun Night Market, which offers wholesale prices from 8 p.m. to 9 a.m. Afterwards, grab snacks like tteokbokki (spicy rice cake), gimbap, and sundae bokkeum (fried stuff sausage). Gwangjang Market Myeong-dong’s main shopping street

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Apgujeong-dong and Cheongdam-dong: High-end Fashion and Galleries Since the 1990s, the Apgujeong-dong and Cheongdam-dong neighborhoods of southern Seoul have been at the forefront of the city’s high-end culture and fashion scenes. Designer brands, luxury boutiques, and leading galleries form the pillars of both areas. One of the more eye-popping spots is the flagship store of Juun.J., a fashion designer whom Times called one of the four most notable Pottery by Kwon Eun-young Ⓒ Choeunsook Gallery to watch out for. The store entrance is adorned by the café Felt Coffee. In the vicinity are multi-brand lifestyle shops like Queenmama Market and designer-crafted spaces like Manmade Wooyoungmi and Nau Haus. Within a block are Horim Museum Sinsa, Seoul Auction, and the K Museum of Contemporary Art. The area’s gallery street has Choeunsook Gallery, which features Korean art furniture and modern handicrafts whose popularity extends from newlyweds in the country to art collectors from abroad.

DDP (provided by Seoul Design Foundation)

Dongdaemun and Dongdaemun Design Seoul Style Spots Plaza: General Fashion Area Certain areas of Seoul have long driven the Dongdaemun is the heart of Seoul fashion. capital’s style and tastes. The following Check out the traditional markets Pyounghwa places offer the ultimate in Seoul style. (Pyeonghwa) and Jeil Pyeonghwa, which have a history of over 60 years, in addition to 30 other fashion malls including Migliore and Doota. 2014 saw the debut of Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), an architectural marvel that symbolizes Dongdaemun’s massive hold on Seoul fashion and design. Designed by British-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, DDP was on the New York Times list of “Top 52 Places to Visit in 2015.” In addition to hosting the annual Seoul Fashion Week and Seoul Design Week, DDP houses conference and exhibition halls and design stores and offers public amenities. Open seven days a week and 365 days a year, DDP is anything and everything about Seoul fashion and design. DDP: 281, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu; ddp.or.kr/eng

DDP (provided by Seoul Design Foundation) Juun.J’s Dosan flagship store Ⓒ Juun.J

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Hongdae: Something for Every Taste If there’s one area in Seoul that symbolizes vibrant youth and individuality, it has to be the region around called Hongdae. The school is the country’s best for art, and just outside the main gate is a vast array of trendy restaurants, unique stores, hip clubs, and indie and street culture. Places Yeonnam-dong like the Hongdae Free Market gives visitors a taste of the area’s unique brand of culture and style. Hongdae’s popularity has spilled over to the surrounding neighborhoods of Sangsu-dong, Hapjeong-dong, Mangwon- dong, and Yeonnam-dong, which have converted old residences and alleyways into social media hotspots. Yeonnam-dong’s Dongjin Market is a reboot of an aging traditional market, and Yeontral Park (the neighborhood’s portion of Gyeongui Line Forest Park) is saturated with photogenic cafés. Close to Hongdae and located between and Ewha Womans University, Sinchon has long exemplified Seoul’s student culture. On weekends, the nearby Yonsei-ro Street goes car-free to host a wide variety of events, festivals, and Millimeter Milligram markets. One of the best events held here is the Sinchon Water Gun Festival every July. A few blocks over is the Ewha Campus Complex designed by acclaimed French architect Dominique Itaewon and Hannam-dong: Perrault. This structure is often described as a valley of lights. Multicultural and Diverse As the city’s go-to places for a global vibe, Itaewon and Hannam-dong are the city’s two leading international neighborhoods. The streets of Gyeongnidan-gil, Dokseodang-ro, Daesagwan-ro, and Usadan-ro are packed with restaurants and stylish spots rising in social media status. Along Itaewon’s main drag are the café Maxim Plant, which was set up by Korea’s biggest brand of instant coffee; Hyundai Card Music Library, which is owned and run by a financial institution; Series Corner, the flagship store and café of the fashion brand Series; and Anthracite Coffee Roasters, a forerunner in Korea’s uber-competitive and diverse scene. The building housing Anthracite is not only inspiring and hip but also offers shopping. D&Department Seoul is a multi-brand shop with a plethora of vintage Korean items as well as miscellaneous lifestyle products and furniture from around the world, Millimeter Milligram is a well-known stationery brand, Post Poetics is a bookstore specializing in art and design titles, and bag brand Freitag has a store here. The urban complex Sounds Hannam on Daesagwan-ro, Hannam-dong’s D Museum, and Daelim Museum’s D Project Space also feature exhibitions of design and experimental art. D&Department Store Hongdae

32 33 Dasi Sewoon, Sewoon Shopping Center HISTORY The Layers of 2,000 Years of Rich History

Seoul is a city of palaces. The heart of the downtown area has five royal palaces from the Joseon Dynasty era where the king resided and ruled: Gyeongbokgung, the most popular among tourists; Changdeokgung, a UNESCO World Heritage site; , a mixture of traditional wooden architecture and a more modern Western style; Changgyeonggung, the first in Korea to have a Western-style greenhouse; and , small but cozy as a temporary royal residence. Other Joseon-era structures outside official royal residences include Shrine, another UNESCO World Heritage site that was built for ancestral rites for past royalty. The Seoul City Wall that encircles the old city and connects its four main gates has protected the city for centuries. Tradition is another key facet of the city. Seoul’s roots as a capital go back over 2,000 years to the time of the Baekje Kingdom. The Joseon era, the period and early modernization, Japanese occupation and modernization, and the contemporary era— each period is represented by the city’s brilliant spectrum of historical relics. Many artifacts were damaged or lost given the turbulent events in the nation’s history such as Japan’s 16th- century invasions and 20th-century colonial occupation and the Korean War, but such losses are also part of the Seoul story. The innumerable ups and downs of history have gradually shaped the Seoul of today.

Deoksugung Palace HISTORY

Changdeokgung Palace: UNESCO World Heritage Site As the first Korean palace designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, Changdeokgung Palace is never short of visitors. Built in 1405 as a supplemental palace to Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung is where King Taejong, the third monarch of the Joseon Dynasty, handled state affairs. From then on, it was the official state palace for over 520 years. Compared to its counterparts, Changdeokgung has remained relatively well- preserved in its original state, a distinction earning it World Heritage status. Its unique beauty stems from a design that accommodates its natural surroundings rather than imposing itself on them and from its more rounded designs compared to ’ the straight lines of Gyeongbokgung. Changdeokgung s main Yeongyeongdang Hall at feature, however, is the royal Huwon Garden. In addition to the Changdeokgung Palace’s Huwon Garden Buyongji Pond and Buyongjeong Pavilion, both of which convey Joseon-era cosmology, several other pavilions are on palace grounds. Another highlight is Yeongyeongdang Hall. Modeled after Joseon noble houses with spaces strictly dividing males and females, the hall exemplifies the residential architecture of Joseon nobility. Admission to the garden is by advance reservation only and with an official guide. An evening tourism course of the garden, Moonlight Tours, is offered from April to Geunjeongjeon Hall at Gyeongbokgung Palace October also by advance booking only. During the same period, performances of traditional music and art like pansori (solo lyrical opera) and julpungnyu (wind and string ensemble) are held. ’ Gyeongbokgung Palace: Seoul’s Starting Point 99, Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu; www.cdg.go.kr Joseon Dynasty s The Joseon Dynasty’s first royal palace, Royal Spaces Gyeongbokgung, is one of Seoul’s most popular tourist attractions. Designed according to Confucian Understanding a city begins with learning principles, the palace has the main halls of ’ its history. Seoul s five Joseon-era palaces Geunjeongjeon and Gyotaejeon that form a straight and Jongmyo Shrine are living testaments line from the main Gwanghwamun Gate. The main ’ to the city s illustrious past. sites are Gyeonghoeru Pavilion and Geunjeongjeon Hall, whose design holds high political significance since it was where the king settled state affairs. The building is set on elevated stone platforms known as woldae to signify the king’s lofty status, and the roof’s eaves were built so that their tips pointed toward the sky. Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, where VIPs were entertained, was built to supplement Geunjeongjeon Hall’s political role. As the biggest pavilion of its kind, Gyeonghoeru Pavilion epitomizes the structural beauty of traditional . The interior of both Geunjeongjeon Hall and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion are open to the public on a limited basis and periods (check the website below for details). As with all of Seoul’s palaces, admission to Gyeongbokgung Palace is free for those dressed in hanbok, which can be rented near each palace. 161, Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu; royalpalace.go.kr

Gyeonghoeru Pavilion at Gyeongbokgung Palace Buyongji Pond and Juhapru Pavilion at Changdeokgung Palace’s Huwon Garden

38 39 HISTORY

Jeonggwanheon Hall at Deoksugung Palace Free admission to Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, and Deoksugung Palaces for anyone dressed in hanbok

Gongpyeong Historic Site Museum: Seoul in A Greater Context

Run by the Seoul Museum of History, the Changgyeonggung Palace: Between Gongpyeong Historic Site Museum contains city Changdeokgung and Jongmyo Shrine artifacts from the Joseon era to the Japanese Located next to Changdeokgung, Seokjojeon Hall at Deoksugung Palace occupation period. It houses artifacts that Changgyeonggung Palace was built to had been preserved underground and were supplement the residential shortcomings discovered during urban redevelopment projects; they are now displayed exactly where they were of the former. The two palaces are linked by Deoksugung Palace: Joseon’s Last Palace Gyeonghuigung Palace and Jongmyo excavated. Gongpyeong-dong was once known Hamyangmun Gate, and the nearby ticket office Deoksugung Palace is a blend of Korean and Western ’ Shrine: Joseon s Secondary Palace and as Gyeonpyeong-bang, the Joseon Dynasty’s sells tickets for admission to both palaces. architecture. After the 1895 assassination of Queen Religious Architecture commercial center that included the country’s After coming to power in 1418, King Sejong Myeongseong by Japanese mercenaries, King Gojong Gyeonghuigung Palace was built as a back-up greatest thoroughfare, Sijeon (licensed store) built Changgyeonggung to accommodate his took refuge at the Russian legation. He then took up palace for emergencies in the event that the Street. From 1412 to 1414, the government built a father King Taejong, and the palace is also residence at Deoksugung and declared the beginning main palace was unavailable; 10 Joseon kings collection of shops licensed to Sijeon merchants where the queen resided. Enter the main of the Korean Empire in 1897. He ordered the building lived here. Part of the palace was destroyed, to prevent disruptive commercial activity. In 1906, Honghwamun Gate to see Okcheongyo Bridge, of the halls Seokjojeon and Jeonggwanheon in but a free park now stands in its stead. Sijeon was revitalized under a newly built central which crosses Geumcheon Stream and is the Western style to make Deoksugung more akin to an Gyeonghuigung is close to the Seoul Museum marketplace but got shut down in 1918. From 1916 palace’s oldest structure. Tours conducted in imperial palace. Built to entertain foreign envoys, of History and Donuimun Museum Village, a to 1940, the general area from Jongno 3-ga Street to Ujeongguk-ro Street prospered as the site of a English, Japanese, and Chinese begin in front Seokjojeon now houses the Korean Empire History cluster of historical buildings showing what major night market. of the bridge twice a day. Daeonsil, Korea’s Museum. Jeonggwanheon Hall was built to house life was like during Seoul’s modernization 17, Gongpyeong-dong, Jongno-gu; first Western-style greenhouse, testifies to the portraits of past Joseon kings, and its unique period. Jongmyo Shrine, a venue for holding museum.seoul.go.kr palace’s rich history. A recommended tour is to appearance is thanks to ornamental railings and ancestral rites for past kings, is considered one visit Changgyeonggung along with its neighbor a balcony constructed in a neoclassical Western of the city’s best memorial structures by many Changdeokgung and Jongmyo Shrine; the two style. Deoksugung is open day and night except overseas architects. Alongside Changdeokgung sites are linked by a pedestrian overpass. Mondays. A reenactment of the changing-of-the- Palace, the shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage 185, Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu; guard ceremony is held three times a day in front of site built in Confucian fashion and housing the cgg.cha.go.kr Daehanmun Gate. Visitors there can also swing by spiritual tablets of deceased kings and queens. the Deoksugung branch of the National Museum of Guided tours are available, and unguided visits Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea. are offered on a limited basis. 99, Sejong-daero, Jung-gu; deoksugung.go.kr Gyeonghuigung Palace: 55, Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu Jongmyo Shrine: 157, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu; jm.cha.go.kr

40 41 HISTORY

Jeongdong Observatory, located on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall’s Seosomun Building, offers a great view of Deoksugung Palace and the surrounding Jeong-dong area and is next to the Seoul Museum of Art. Originally built in 1928, the building has a preserved exterior but its interior (originally a courthouse) has been revamped into one of Seoul’s Chungdong First Methodist Church definitive art museums. In addition to modern Korean art, it regularly hosts exhibitions featuring artists from around the globe. Across the street is Chungdong First Methodist Church, built in 1897 as the nation’s first Protestant church. Of great historical significance is the former Russian legation, where King Gojong took refuge after Queen Myeongseong’s assassination, and Jungmyeongjeon Hall, which not only stored imperial texts and treasures but was where diplomats of the Korean Empire were pressured under military force to sign the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1905, which stripped Korea of its sovereignty. The path King Gojong took from Deoksugung to the Russian legation, which was built in 1890, has been preserved as the Path of King Gojong. Take the gate next to the site of Seonwonjeon Hall or the one inside Jeongdong Park to walk the same path. Also nearby are the Romanesque-style

Seoul Anglican Cathedral of St. Mary and St. Nicholas Seoul Anglican Cathedral of St. Mary and St. Nicholas built in 1926 and the Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture, which tells of Seoul’s history through architecture. Seoul Museum of Art: 61, Deoksugung-gil, Jung-gu; sema.seoul. Upon exiting Deoksugung Palace’s Daehanmun go.kr Seoul Hall of Urbanism and Architecture: 119, Sejong-daero, Jeongdong-gil Street: Gate, turn right and follow the cobblestone path Jung-gu; seoulhour.kr ’ to see one of Seoul’s most exotic neighborhoods. Stroll Through Korea s Jeongdong-gil Street is a time capsule Modernization History representing the capital’s period of modernization when it opened to the West after centuries of Walk down a street that visually encapsulates virtual isolation. Commonly known as Deoksugung Korea’s modernization and Westernization Stonewall Walkway, the street is also one of the city’s most romantic walkways. Cars are barred from the street from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays. Take a walk at night under the street lamps for a heightened sense of romance. Jeongdong Culture Night is a two-day program of events and festivals held every spring and fall. Key cultural sites are open at night and parades and musical performances fill the street. Visitors can also try painting, calligraphy, and silk screen printing. An exotic blend of Western and late Joseon architecture that is rich in history, the area is where foreign nationals resided in the 1880s and housed legations from the US, the UK, Russia, and France.

Deoksugung Stonewall Walkway Seoul Museum of Art

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Seoul City Wall: Walk Along Old City’s Borders Donuimun Museum Village: Hike the hill coming out of Donuimun Museum Village to find the Mountain 100 Years Condensed into portion of the Seoul City Wall. Built to protect the capital, known then as Hanyang, the wall One Village occupies the spaces between the city’s four Located in western Seoul, Saemunan Village is a cluster major gates and the four smaller ones. Its of historical buildings from Seoul’s modernization period. average height is around five to eight meters The village forms a museum that features the lives of and its total length is 18.6 kilometers. Korea’s laypeople in the 20th century. The walls protected the city for 514 years,

Donuimun Exhibition Hall the longest active period for a city wall. Inwangsan Mountain Trail of Seoul City Wall During Seoul’s modernization, the municipal government restored the destroyed sections except for those linking the gates of Gate (eastern) and Sungnyemun and the portion that starts from Changuimun Gate (southern), vestiges of which can still be Gate, passes Sukjeongmun Gate (northern), Donuimun Gate refers to the western gate of Seoul’s seen today. The result is a walking trail that and ends at Hyehwamun Gate is also of higher city wall, and the museum village is the area inside encircles the entire old city, divided into six difficulty. Both trails, however, lead to some of that gate. Built during the development of the parts and categorized according to difficulty the best views of the city, not to mention the Gyonam-dong area, the gate was synonymous with and preservation status. The Inwangsan most iconic rock faces. For those brave enough the private education industry in the 1960s, and '70s. Mountain Trail is on the more difficult side, to tackle the entire trail in one day, dividing it up Residential buildings were renovated into tutoring as follows is highly recommended: Inwangsan centers that catered to applicants aspiring to enter Mountain-Baegak Mountain- Mountain the region’s prestigious private schools. Such schools and Heunginjimun Gate-Namsan Mountain- later moved to the Gangnam region, and with new laws Sungnyemun Gate. prohibiting private education, many residents left the seoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr area. Replacing the tutoring services were restaurants catering to white-collar workers, fueling a second boom in the area. A testament to the nation’s history, the village holds exhibits and houses the former house of an independence fighter during Japanese Hanok occupation and Donuimun Experience Center. Sukjeongmun buildings also offer traditional Korean culture, and Gate Baegak Mountain Trail old-school game and retro-style comic book rooms present a truly Seoul-stalgic experience of the pre- Changuimun Hansung Univ. digital age. From the village, take the alleyway that Gate ➍ Hyehwamun Station Gate leads to Kangbuk Samsung Hospital to find a path Naksan known as Songwol-gil. Keep walking to discover other Inwangsan Mountain Trail Mountain Trail Donuimun Heunginjimun remnants from the 1920s and '30s, such as the office Gate Gate ➍ Dongdaemun of independence activist Koo as well as his former Souimun Station ➏ Seodaemun Gate quarters, Gyeonggyojang House. Also nearby are the Station Gwanghuimun “ ” Gate home of composer Hong Nan-pa and the Dilkusha Heunginjimun Sungnyemun house of Albert Taylor, an Associated Press journalist Sungnyemun Gate Trail Gate Trail Gate who broke the news of Korea’s 1919 independence ➊➍ movement to the world. Airport Railroad Express Donuimun Museum Village: 14-3, Songwol-gil, Jongno-gu Gyeongui-Jungang Line Namsan (Mongmyeoksan) Mountain Trail

Donuimun Museum Village

44 45 Gwanghwamun Gate CULTURE Keys to the City

To see what kind of city Seoul is, look at its culture to find its identity. Many people describe Seoul as a fast-paced and dynamic city, and this is clearly evident at Gwanghwamun Square and Seoul Plaza. During the FIFA 2002 World Cup, huge masses of fans gathered at the plaza to show the world just how exciting the city is. Seoul is also a dynamo by virtue of its surrounding mountains and the Hangang River as well as its rich history. Modernizing at a rapid pace, Seoul residents are not afraid of new things and take an experimental attitude of “Try first, ask questions later.” That way, they create fresh and original things. K-pop, one of the first things that come to mind when thinking of Korean culture, and the architecture of Seoul’s urban landscape are products of the city’s experimental and entrepreneurial culture. Today’s Seoul is all about regeneration and retro. Regeneration here refers to preserving value amid rapid change and restoring the old into the new. Retro, or “newtro,” as Koreans call it, is about the younger generation offering a fresh take on a past they never had. It is also about taking the neglected and obsolete and breathing new life into them, inspiring a regeneration of culture, history, and industry. This will be a key cultural theme when looking back at the Seoul of the 2010s and '20s.

Seoullo 7017 Culture

Experience Millennia of Music History Underneath today’s K-pop is the rich tradition of Korean music and rhythm. Discover Korea’s long-standing musical heritage in Seoul.

Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music

The history of gugak (traditional Korean music) goes back thousands of years. Fond of song and dance, Koreans take music with them wherever they go and have used rhythm and movement to express their joys and sorrows. Seoul has two places for experiencing traditional Korean song and music: Seoul Donhwamun Traditional Theater, just across from Changdeokgung Palace’s Donhwamun Gate, and the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music. The theater has both indoor and outdoor performance halls, allowing listeners and performers to interact in close quarters. Foreign tourists can reserve tickets by phone. The museum is the nation’s first for Korean folk music and allows visitors to experience and unravel layers of K-pop Square Koreans’ musical identity. The first floor offers music samples, the first basement floor displays permanent exhibits, and the second basement floor screens videos. Admission to the museum is free. ’ Befitting the birthplace of K-pop, Seoul is awash in Seoul Donhwamun Traditional Theater: 102, Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Boppin in the City musical performances and K-pop symbols, the biggest (82)2-3210-7001 or 7002 Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music: of K-pop venues being Gocheok Sky Dome and Seoul Olympic 96, Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, (82)2-742-2600 Stadium. As the country’s first venue exclusively K-pop is a global phenomenon that for K-pop, Seoul Arena will sprout up in the Chang- started in Seoul, a city where music dong neighborhood. Nearby is Platform Changdong plays nonstop 365 days a year. 61, an indie artists’ space made of rainbow-colored shipping containers. Artists and musicians under the Changdong Sound Studio residency program perform weekly concerts of various genres. Near the Seoul COEX is K-pop Square, which has a statue honoring Psy’s megahit “Gangnam Style” and a giant screen playing the latest K-pop music videos. Along Gangnam-gu district’s main street is a series of media poles showing fan videos and messages honoring K-pop artists’ birthdays or albums. And K-Star Road is a walking course offering a peek at the lives of K-pop stars by visiting their favorite shops. The course is lined with statues called Gangnamdols, each dedicated to a specific K-pop artist, listing the artists’ management companies and their favorite stores. Platform Changdong 61: 74, Madeul-ro 11-gil, Dobong-gu; platform61.kr/_eng

K-Star Road Seoul Donhwamun Traditional Theater

50 51 Culture

Seosomun Historical Park: Architectural Hotspot Gocheok Sky Dome Seosomun Historical Park not only offers relaxation but also history and culture. During the Joseon Dynasty, the space was used for executing rebellious silhak (practical Gocheok Sky Dome: learning) scholars, revolutionaries, Catholics, Sports and Cultural Landmark and anyone who threatened the conventional As Seoul’s first domed stadium, opened order. This former place of death is now one of in 2015, Gocheok Sky Dome can seat over healing. Above ground it’s a park; underground 25,000 baseball fans. It is also where K-pop it’s the Seosomun Shrine History Museum icons and pop stars from home and abroad with exhibit halls and spaces of religious hold their concerts. Since its opening, the significance. Sky Square, a skylight that goes stadium has hosted almost 600 sports and from the third basement floor all the way to music events; the global rock sensation U2 the ground floor, signifies the connection played there in December 2019, and rock between heaven and earth. The light from the legend Queen followed in January 2020. ceiling’s skylight points to a spot where the Gocheok stands 67 meters tall and has remains of five Catholic martyrs are buried. a transparent ceiling, the first of its kind As the ground floor was used for executions, in Korea. It also blocks noise, augments the lower levels were used as burial grounds. lighting effects, and offers a temperature- Recognized for its architectural significance, controlled environment.

Nodeul Island © Jaewoong Chae the park received first prize in the 2019 Seoul 430, Gyeongin-ro, Guro-gu Architecture Awards. 5, Chilpae-ro, Jung-gu

’ Nodeul Island: Island of Music Seoul s Cultural Until the mid-1960s, Nodeul Island was where people Landmarks splashed around along the sand banks in summer and ice skated in winter. The sand banks disappeared amid ’ The city s cultural landmarks are far from the construction of Gangbyeonbuk-ro (Gangbyeon ordinary. Some are islands, while religious Expressway), turning the island into an isolated and holy grounds have been turned into neglected spot. In 2019, however, Nodeul Island was architectural meccas and a sports dome reborn as a cultural space and an island of music. into an iconic concert venue. In addition to a concert venue (Nodeul Live House) with a capacity of 456 people, it offers an extensive platform for book culture creators (Nodeul Bookstore), a well-curated botanic garden (Plant Atelier), a store for domestic artists and small brands (Chacheum), an exhibition space for artworks in everyday life (Space 445), and an “upcycling fashion” brand (RE;CODE) that uses recycled materials. Its restaurants and stores include Boksoondoga, Witch Gimbap, The Pizza Sound, and Emart 24. From the outdoor walkways and yard, view the Hangang River or listen to the subway passing by. At night, take in the city’s skyline. 445, Yangnyeong-ro, Yongsan-gu; nodeul.org

Nodeul Live House Seosomun Historical Park © Younghoon Goh

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Oil Tank Culture Park: Seoul Book Bogo From Industrial to Cultural Complex Across from is Oil Tank Culture Park, which was built to store the city’s oil after the 1973 oil crisis. It was shut Seoul Bookstore Tour down in 2002 over safety concerns as the city Seoul has a wide variety of bookstores. prepared for the nation’s co-hosting of the Seoul Book Bogo sports a massive collection FIFA World Cup. After over 10 years of neglect, of used books that includes rare editions, a civic idea contest came up with converting books from different eras, original editions of the space into a cultural place. The park had novels, and independent publisher titles. The five oil storage tanks capable of storing up to city has also compiled a list of 50 bookstores 6,907 liters. Four of those have been made into for their unique and curated take on books a glass pavilion, a lecture hall, a concert venue, (check the Seoul Metropolitan Library and an exhibit explaining the park’s history. website for details). Gyeongui Line Book The other tank remains preserved in its original Street, part of a park built over an old railway state. Material from the renovation process line, is a concentration of independent was taken to create a new “tank” for use as a publishers and bookstores. Bookstores here community center, which contains a cafeteria, regularly host Q&As between authors and meeting rooms, and a multipurpose lecture hall. readers. 87, Jeungsan-ro, Mapo-gu; Seoul Book Bogo: 1, Ogeum-ro, Songpa-gu parks.seoul.go.kr/culturetank Seoul public libraries; lib.seoul.go.kr Gyeongui Line Book Street: 35, Wausan-ro 37-gil, Mapo-gu

Oil Tank Culture Park

Cultural Revival The word “regeneration” is being tossed around a lot in Seoul, referring to a cultural revival headed by a new generation.

Seoul Book Bogo

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Gateway to Alternative Seoul Seoullo 7017 has shined the spotlight on the back alleys and areas behind Seoul Station: Jungnim- Holiday Kiosk, Piknic © Yongjoon Choi dong, Seogye-dong, and Cheongpa-dong. A wealth of small but quaint cafés and restaurants have appeared, and a wide spectrum of artists and creative types have started to flock in. The alleyways of Jungnim-dong contain Yakhyeon Catholic Church, with over 100 years of history, and Piknic: From Pharmaceutical St. Joseph Apartments, Korea’s first commercial- Firm to Urban Hot Spot residential complex. It also offers many creative From Seoullo 7017’s Hoehyeon-dong community spaces like Jungnim Warehouse, a space exit, walk 200 meters to reach one of for exhibits, shopping, and other events; Ginkgo Seoul’s hippest spots: Piknic. The building Tree House, which has live music; and Cheongpa debuted in the 1970s and originally Hillside House, a café-cum-broadcast station housed a pharmaceutical company. created by locals. Persimmon Tree House is a shared Though looking at the building might kitchen and bookstore, Seogye-dong Co-Working make some think of a blast from the past, Factory a communal workspace run by needlework what happens inside is fresh and new. and embroidery masters, and Black Brick House Kafe Piknic sells beverages made from another shared kitchen. Culture Seoul Station 284, homegrown herbs, while Holiday Kiosk a renovated version of the old Seoul Station, is a sells lifestyle products from domestic platform for cultural and artistic projects. artists and brands. The French restaurant Seoullo 7017 Jungnim Warehouse: 441-1, Jungnim-dong, Jung-gu Zero Complex has a Michelin star. Twice Ginkgo Tree House: 33-283, Seogye-dong, Yongsan-gu a year, Piknic holds trendy exhibits in Black Brick House: 100-145, Hoehyeon-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu addition to events like Novel Theater and Seoullo 7017: Passage to Culture Culture Station Seoul 284: 1, Tongil-ro, Jung-gu; Winter Bookstore. Culture Walk Along Seoullo 7017 is a former highway overpass built seoul284.org/english/ 30, Toegye-ro 6ga-gil, Jung-gu Seoullo 7017 in 1970 that was converted into an elevated walkway and park that opened in 2017. It gives ’ The city s most enjoyable walk is near Seoul pedestrians access to 17 streets and connects Station. Seoullo 7017 has changed the way Hoehyeon, Namdaemun Market, Sungnyemun Seoulites view urban strolls. (Namdaemun) Gate, and the Seoul City Wall, as well as the historical neighborhoods of Jungnim-dong, Seogye-dong, and Cheongpa- dong. The elevated walkway is beautified by gardens and plant life, giving pedestrians easy navigation in areas blocked off by major roadways at ground level. This hidden urban gem has also changed the way city residents think of urban navigation. Every winter, people can walk through its LED “light tunnel,” while a nearby market, a pop-up store for sewing and needlework, outdoor exhibits, puppet shows, and buskers provide year-round entertainment. seoullo7017.seoul.go.kr

Jungnim Warehouse Piknic © Yongjoon Choi

56 57 Seosomun Historical Park STREET Tour of Daily Life on Seoul’s Streets

Some travelers prefer alleyways and less-traveled paths to truly see the “real” side of a city, something unique outside of the typical concrete jungle landscape. The smaller roads are what house the city’s supermarkets, cafés, and eateries frequented by real Seoulites. To modern urban dwellers constantly surrounded by skyscrapers and high rises, smaller alleyways provide the memories and nostalgia of life. So where are the favorite alleyways of Seoul residents? Look to the streets of areas like Gye-dong, Samcheong-dong, Gahoe-dong, and Seochon, where old hanok residences make for the perfect leisurely stroll. Gahoe- dong connects to Bukchon Hanok Village, and Seochon is filled with art museums, cafés, small galleries, bookstores, and cute shops, making both neighborhoods popular tourist destinations. The trendy shops and eateries along the streets of Garosu-gil, Mangnidan-gil, and Songnidan-gil are also must-visit places. These alleyways are also where the city’s most fashionable trendsetters hang out. Although some of these streets are a little too big to be called “alleyways,” they’re still ideal for taking walks and viewing the lives of other people, as they cater more to pedestrians than cars.

Ikseon-dong’s alleys STREET

Café Hotel Seine

Café Sikmul

Ikseon-dong: Hanok-Heavy Alleyways Revival of Old-School Korean Inns hanok Ikseon-dong is filled with residences Accompanying the revival of Ikseon-dong’s clustered so tightly as to nearly touch each other; hanok is a resurgence of the yeogwan, or its narrow pathways are reminiscent of Seoul an old-school Korean inn. Nakwonjang is a about 70 years ago. yeogwan built in the 1980s and renovated into a chic boutique hotel. On the first floor is a café and reception; guest rooms occupy the second to fifth floors; and on the sixth is a Origins of Ikseon-dong Hip rooftop lounge. The renovation unfortunately Ikseon-dong’s alleys are bursting with Café Oyatkkot snubbed the installation of an elevator, youth. Once a run-down area of residential but the inn is popular for offering a unique hanok, the area is undergoing a revival stay. Next door is the café Hotel Seine, a less than five years in the making. renovated inn built in 1979. The facade has Renovated hanok spaces like the café Social Media Worthy Soul Food Spots: Simple Is Beautiful been faithfully preserved, with the first floor Sikmul (Plant) or the coffee shop Teum Certain spaces have a particularly Amid the adorable cafés and restaurants housing a beverage counter that looks like a (formerly Ikdong Dabang) have ushered in profound juxtaposition of old and new. are simple eateries that serve Korean concierge desk. The first to third floors are a a hipster resurgence. Sikmul has piled old Saladaeng Bangkok and Dongbaek staples. Changhwadang’s dumplings bar, the fourth to sixth floors are a café and hanok roof tiles to build its walls, and the Yanggwajeom are two social media worthy cause many seeking them to form long pub, and a rooftop lounge. exposed nails and concrete of the interior spots. Oyatkkot (Plum Blossom), a hanok lines, while Namdo Bunsik is known for provide a raw industrial ambience. The over 200 years old with a Western interior its tteokbokki (spicy rice cake) garnished building’s main space is furnished with and decorations, and Café On, which bakes with fries and lettuce. Turtle Supermarket, mother-of-pearl tables for floor seating, its bread in a giant cast-iron cauldron, an Ikseon-dong establishment since the where guests can sip on the signature are two gems hidden in the area’s maze start of the area’s revival, is reminiscent cocktail made with Jameson Irish whiskey. of alleyways. The food is not bad, either. of a hole-in-the-wall store Koreans used The drink is named after Jeong Se-kwon, Dongbaek Yanggwajeom’s strawberry to frequent before the arrival of major a real estate developer during Japanese souffle cake, Oyattkkot’s grapefruit shaved supermarket chains. At night, enjoy a occupation who struggled to protect the ice, and Café On’s cast iron-baked bread beer while eating meoktae (dried pollock) neighborhood as an ordinary residential are as unique and Instagram worthy as the on plastic chairs. Just as schoolchildren area. Notable restaurants in the area spaces themselves. relax after a hard day of studying with include Italy Chonggak, Gyeongyangsik tteokbokki, Ikseon-dong is where adults 1920, and Yeoldudal (12 Months). come after work for beer and simple snacks or for late-night drinks.

Turtle Supermarket

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Bukchon Hanok Village: Traditional Culture Area Sometimes referred to as “a noble village,” the neighborhoods of Gahoe-dong and Samcheong- dong are where Joseon’s royal descendants, aristocrats, and bureaucrats lived. Also there ’ is Bukchon Hanok Village, which is an area Chiwoonjeong s main bedroom Ⓒ Chiwoonjeong designated for preserving traditional Korean architecture. Literally meaning “north village,” Bukchon is north of Cheonggyecheon Stream culture. Chiwoonjeong is the definitive hanok- and Jongno Street. It mostly comprises style hotel. Located in a spot known throughout residential hanok with the traditional eight- Bukchon for its fortuitous feng shui, the original angle roofs, modernized versions of homes that hanok building is nearly 100 years old. The are often shaped like squares or half-squares. vintage furniture and decorations, along with Bukchon has plenty to offer including the Gahoe- the traditional bedding, will make a guest feel dong Traditional Village Festival and Gahoe like Joseon nobility. To complete the experience, Museum, which features folk paintings and good- try the traditional culture experience. Breakfast luck charms and where visitors can also make and dinner are prepared by chefs from Doore, a their own paintings. Donglim Knot Workshop is restaurant in Insa-dong known for its traditional run by masters of traditional Korean knots who full-course meals. For information on hanok hold classes on their art. Bukchon Traditional villages and hotels in Bukchon and throughout Culture Center presents tea ceremonies and Seoul, check out the city’s hanok portal and lectures on Korean traditions for foreigners. hanok stay website. The area is known for restaurants serving sujebi Hanok portal: hanok.seoul.go.kr (hand-torn dough soup), kalguksu (hand-cut Hanok stays: stay.visitseoul.net/eng noodles), and dumplings. Samcheongdong Bukchon Hanok Village: bukchon.seoul.go.kr Sujebi, located in the same spot since 1982, Bukchon Traditional Culture Center: stays consistent in its taste no matter how trends 37, Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu change. A variety of hanok-style guesthouses Gahoe Museum: 52, Bukchon-ro, Jongno-gu also offer both traditional food as well as hands- Donglim Knot Workshop: 10, Bukchon-ro 12-gil, on activities for getting acquainted with Korean Jongno-gu; shimyoungmi.com

Bukchon Hanok Village

Bukchon and Seochon: Former Nobles’ Villages Turned Trendy 'Hoods Gyeongbokgung Palace borders Bukchon to the north and Seochon to the west. Bukchon is where Joseon aristocrats resided, while Seochon was home to royal craftsmen and tradesmen. Today, both are where people go to experience the Korea of old. View from Chiwoonjeong’s living room ⒸChiwoonjeong

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Seochon: Home of Old Seoul’s Artistic Spirit While Bukchon located northeast of House of Gyeongbokgung Palace was home to Joseon’s nobility and high culture, Seochon to the west was where the country’s true culture Tongui-dong Boan Yeogwan now stands. blossomed, where the artists and the literati From 1942 to 2005, the building was originally resided. Park No-soo Art Museum and the a yeogwan where artists and writers often house of Yi Sang are testaments to this history. stayed and gathered. In 2007, it was reborn as Park was an artist and Yi a writer during the an artistic and cultural space while retaining its 1930s. The museum was created from the inn function. Next door is Boan 1942, a place to house Park lived in for over 40 years and was exhibit and create visual art in addition to being designed by renowned architect Park Gil- a café and bookstore. The third and fourth ryong. The house contains Park’s main studio floors have guest rooms for those looking as well as some of his best-known works. The for a bohemian-style stay. Visitors can also house of Yi Sang, one of Korea’s most brilliant appreciate the modern designers and artists writers and a symbol of modernism, is a whose works adorn the place. What started off restored version of the home he lived in for 20 as Boan 1942 projects have since evolved into years from age 3. It has a display of his most the nearby art shop Gallery Factory and the One Book Stay Ⓒ Kihoon Park well-known works as well as books about and publishing collective and bookstore The Book related to him (including recipients of the Yi Society. They showcase novelty exhibits, art Sang Literary Award). The literary magazine Siin projects, and publications. burak (Village of Poets), published by a literary Park No-soo Art Museum: 34, Ogin 1-gil, Jongno-gu 10 old-style coins (that function as tokens) coterie comprising Seo Jeong-ju, Kim Dal-jin, House of Yi Sang: 18, Jahamun-ro 7-gil, Jongno-gu and an empty plastic lunch box, which can and Kim Tong-ni, was also born in Seochon. The Boan 1942: 33, Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu; b1942.com Following Culture in Seochon then be filled with the desired items using the building where it was first published is where Gallery Factory: 15, Jahamun-ro 10-gil, Jongno-gu; A good place to start a culture stroll through coins. From crispy pan-fried gireum tteokbokki factory483.org Seochon is Daelim Museum, a neighborhood to tteokgalbi (short-rib patties) and gimbap, The Book Society: 2nd flr., 22, Jahamun-ro 10-gil 22, landmark. Follow the narrow path from sample all the classic favorites in a single meal. Jongno-gu; thebooksociety.org Daelim Museum to see cafés and spots often Also look out for MK2, a gallery and café that seen on social media like Daeo Bookstore, blew up the neighborhood scene in the late the city’s oldest. Continue to walk following 2000s, and the Italian restaurant Duomo. your instincts and you’re sure to discover Tongin Market: 18, Jahamun-ro 15-gil, Jongno-gu more historical gems. Trending these days is Seochon Yoohee, a playful tour through Seochon’s winding alleyways and a project by the company Stayfolio, which runs unique hanok stay programs like Nuwa, One Book Stay, Seochon Youngrakjae, Adam Hanok, and Somewhere. Stayfolio also runs creative spaces like Maker Seochon, Seochon Garage, Of One Book, and Seochon Dogam. In addition, a wide array of hard-to-find workshops, restaurants, and cafés allow visitors to get the full Seochon experience. A walk through Seochon is never complete without a stop at Tongin Market, which is all the rage because of its “10-coin lunch box.” Trade 5,000 won for

Boan Stay Ⓒ BOAN1942 Seochon Dogam Ⓒ Kihoon Park

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Songnidan-gil: The Other Side of Skyscrapers Songnidan-gil offers access to both Seoul’s most well-known lake and its tallest building. Sit at one of the road’s restaurants for an incredible view

Songnidan-gil is a nickname for a street in Songpa-dong officially called Baekjegobun-ro 45-gil. The name was inspired by the once Songnidan-gil and Lotte World Tower wildly popular Gyeongnidan-gil near Itaewon. At quick glance, Songnidan-gil seems like just another street, but a closer look brings into view trendy restaurants and cafés. The street is also right next to the 123-story Lotte World Tower, the country’s tallest building, meaning diners at the tower have an almost surreal view. The tower’s opening in 2015 transformed the once-quiet residential area into a trending spot. The lower floors house a department store, a concert hall, a movie theater, and stores of major fashion and lifestyle brands. After shopping, young people head on over to Songpa Naru Garosu-gil Park (Seokchon Lake), which leads them to Songnidan-gil. Close to Songpanaru Station on the No. 9 line of the Seoul subway, the street’s entrance has a guide map available in English, Chinese, and Garosu-gil Street links the streets of Apgujeong- Japanese. Every April, the park draws massive crowds with its cherry Garosu-gil: ro 12-gil and Dosan-daero 13-gil and is a quick blossom festival; the blossoms are especially beautiful at night. Gangnam Trendsetter walk from Exit 8 of Sinsa Station on the Line 3 of Baekjegobun-ro 45-gil, Songpa-gu the Seoul subway. Garosu-gil (literally “tree-lined Garosu-gil, known for the beautiful ginkgo trees street” in Korean) is named for the ginkgo trees that that line the street, is always on top of the latest line each side. Many artists, photographers, and in global fashion and beauty trends. designers have their workshops in the area, and they subsequently attracted a wealth of hip wine and beer bars. Garosu-gil started blowing up around 2004, when people got wind of the area’s European- esque outdoor cafés, multi-brand designer shops, restaurants, and coffee houses; it had been known mostly for cute and quaint shops. Then came a wave of big-name brands and capital flowing into the neighborhood to create one of the city’s most stylish shopping areas, constantly drawing crowds of hip youngsters. Garosu-gil has recently spawned a mini-shopping complex, Garo Golmok, reminiscent of Insa-dong’s Ssamziegil. Garo Golmok is where the small brands and workshops pushed out by big names and capital flocked to. The complex comprises a continual staircase that encircles an open central plaza. Climbing up the staircase makes one feel like he or she is climbing a narrow alley, and shops and cultural spaces are on both sides. Apgujeong-ro 12-gil to Dosan-daero 13-gil Garo Golmok Songnidan-gil

68 69 Songnidan-gil Songnidan-gil My Seoul Experience

A lot of the buildings look the same, I thought it was a cutting-edge city. If I come but there’s a certain charm different again, I’d like to shop in the Gangnam area from that of concrete jungles like and hike Bukhansan Mountain. Shanghai. A forest and parks allow - Gabriel Felix Sieker, Denmark Everything was so clean. Even compared visitors to go for a walk or a run in to other cities, the sidewalk and streets the morning and evening, and there It felt modern, clean and are very clean. The public transportation are a lot of hills, so it feels pretty organized. The people were like the subway and buses—and even green for a big city. Next time, I want polite, and it felt like the food is taxis—were convenient and affordable. to go to more restaurants and try an important part of the culture. ’ ’ It seemed like you didn t need a car to some Korean barbecue. I d also like - Rob Navis, Netherlands live in the city. to hike Bukhansan Mountain. I fell in love with Seoul at first sight. It’s filled with - Isolde Fast, Austria - Roger Marti, Switzerland buildings, there are plenty of places to go, and I was inspired by so many things. It’s a blend of modernity and tradition, with crowded streets and empty spaces where you can relax. The people also take the initiative to help you and they’re really friendly. It felt like I was truly being welcomed. I think I’m going to miss food like raw octopus, gimbap (seaweed rice rolls), bulgogi (barbecue beef), and I’ve been to Seoul twice. When kimchi, though it’s a little spicy. If I come again, I want to I first came in 2014, what visit Namsan Mountain, Dongdaemun, and Insa-dong as initially struck me was the ’ well as try more traditional food and . I ll Be Back, Seoul! flashy neon lights and the - Ewa Atisso, Poland We asked visitors to objectively answer two questions about their experiences in Seoul: public transportation network. “What was your first impression?” and “What do you want to do if you return?” I also remember the great food, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and the free hanbok rentals in front of such a big palace. - Melanie Förster, Germany

A big, modern, and crowded city! Seoul is a huge and busy city - Achille Atisso, Togo I was taken aback by how the skyscrapers that moves fast but everything is organized. The public blend in with nature. I never thought that such transportation is well-developed a big city would have so much shade provided and the trains and buses come by trees. On top of that, you can experience on schedule. The taxis aren’t the cultural side of things like the palaces or expensive, the public bathrooms the traditional markets. The sight of traditional are clean, and all the subway houses mixing in with modern buildings I arrived in Seoul and got free Wi-Fi on the street. It feels like a city that stations and parks have public really caught my eye. The people were also takes care of all your needs, no matter how small, whether you’re at home, bathrooms. Next time, I’d like to memorable. They were friendly and curious, at the park or anywhere. If you go to a park for a picnic, even if you haven’t visit one of the crowded tourist took the time to talk to me and helped me brought any food or supplies, you can get anything you need for a decent spots like the palaces, Bukchon whenever there were problems. price. Another extraordinary thing is the abundance of public indoor Hanok Village or Insa-dong. - Saskia Theilmann, France spaces where children can play when it rains or snows. - José Pérez, Guatemala - Sharon Setlhake, South Africa

72 73 Seoul Souvenirs

Travel Memories Every trip needs a souvenir that depends on a traveler’s taste and budget. The following is a list of rather surprising items that range in cost from a few bucks to pretty pricey.

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1 An exfoliating mitt purchased in Itaewon 2 A classic souvenir magnet 3 Pororo chopsticks for children and even adults who need practice 7 Traditional brass utensils 8 A traditional apron from Insa-dong 9 Korean flavors: kimchi, makgeolli (milky rice wine), and boxed soju—all in using them 4 Royal socks from Namdaemun Market especially popular with Malaysian tourists 5 Hats with daejang (boss) and other neatly packaged to share with friends 10 Line Friends toothbrushes 11 Poker cards from DDP popular among European tourists. 12 Kkobuk Korean words inscribed on them 6 Fried snacks from a Myeong-dong department store popular among tourists Chips and Honey Butter Almonds, a perfect blend of salty and sweet

74 75 Seoul Directory

Seoul Metropolitan Government english.seoul.go.kr The Seoul Metropolitan Government’s webpage is a portal for current events as well as information on social programs, the city economy, culture, municipal policy, lifestyle, transportation and job fairs. Seoul residents can offer their opinions on a separate page.

Seoul’s Official Social Media Accounts Instagram: instagram.com/iseoulu Facebook: facebook.com/seoulcitykorea Twitter: twitter.com/seoul_gov

Seoul YouTube youtube.com/seouldreamseries The city’s official YouTube channel offering information updated in real time

Seoul Travel Information english.visitseoul.net The city’s official guide to its main attractions, restaurants, accommodations, shopping, festivals, and concerts, as well as other travel N Seoul Tower tips and updates on the latest healthcare and Korean Wave tourism. Services available in English, Japanese, and Chinese.

Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr The city’s official site for foreign nationals offering support programs, international driver’s licenses, and tax consultations Experience Seoul via Video

Seoul promotional Aerial view of Seoul video by BTS

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DDP’s Seoul Light event TO.

What did you find most fun in Seoul? Tell your friends and family about it.

TO.

Gyeongbokgung Palace What did you find most fun in Seoul? Tell your friends and family about it. Issued by Seoul Metropolitan Government Publisher Production by Media Channel Team, New Media Division Edited by Public Communications Bureau, MY.K Studio Written by Yenny Kim, Hanbitnuri Park, Kyoungmin Kim, Yuhyun Seo, Sue Ma Translated by Felix Im, D. Peter Kim Designed by Kwuiryeong Cha Pictograms and illustrations by Jahng Hyoung Joon Photography by Sangmyung Yoon, Sojung Yang

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