sign in sign up
<<
Home , Old vine, Red Willow Vineyard

washingT on SPRING 2016

TasTing® The magazine for people who love Room tasting OOLDLD VVINESINES wHERE ROOTS & PASSIONS RUN DEEP Page 32 Tri-Cities TroLLey wine advenTUre Page 42

Display until May 31, 2016 WIN! CAVE B GEtAWAy Changes afoot at Spring 2016 Page 49 coL SoLare Page 54 • • $6.95 US PLUS: 121 amazing wine events cowboy glamping 37 wine reviews Washington Tasting RooM.com 0 Tasting Room special report OOLDLD VVINESINES ofof washington: Where Roots and Passions Run Deep

writer John Vitale

PICTURED Rolling Bay Winery produces Old Vine Cabernet from this block of gnarly old vines, planted at Upland Vineyard in 1979 Photo: Alphonse de Klerk

0 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 0 Tasting Room special report

Much like music played on an old violin, the flavor ines made from guidelines set forth by the Alcohol and notes are deeper, richer and more nuanced than Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, there well-established are no such parameters for “old vine.” wine from younger vineyards. w “It almost comes down to a thing vineyards, known as “old of honesty and integrity of what — Alphonse de Klerk, Rolling Bay Winery constitutes old vines, because there vines,” are on the uptick. isn’t a definition,” says Rick Small, founder of Woodward Canyon. He has We turn to the pros been producing an Old Vine Cabernet farming Red Willow Vineyard in the Prized Commodity Sauvignon since 1995, working with Yakima Valley for the past 45 years. Prior to 1968, there were roughly in our quest to better some of the elder premium vines in the “I think that the relative age of our 200 acres of premium wine in state. His initial interest was sparked industry to older Washington. That number escalated understand the mystical after comparing some really young wine regions tends to influence our nearly six fold to 1,155 acres by 1972, fruit to vines nearly a quarter century view of old vines,” he says. “It’s like the pivotal year when the industry significance surrounding old at that time. “If you compared the teenager thinking that 40 is old, and really began to get underway. the young grapes with Cabernet that the 60-year-old thinking you’re not old Mike Sauer planted Cabernet vines these notable . had been planted in ’72 at Sagemoor until 80.” the following year, and fruit from or Champoux, those wines were in a Norm McKibben of Pepper JJ Williams of Kiona Vineyards, this prized block has been coveted for Bridge in Walla Walla There’s a storied romance behind completely different zone, with regards whose family members were pioneers decades. “In today’s wine industry old vines and their place in history. to concentration and expression of fruit, of Red Mountain, stretches the theory there is a tendency to remove and A young vine is Walla Walla’s vineyard mogul Norm and expression of place,” he says. of relativity a bit further. “I’m not sure replant blocks because of economics, McKibben says, “I tasted some very nice about putting a number on old vines. disease, new clones, different varieties JJ Williams of Kiona Vineyards points like a teenager; wine from 135-year-old vines in Theory of Relativity The oldest planting of in and many other reasons,” says Sauer. to a block of Cabernet planted in 1975 the North of the Barossa while chasing Tasting Room Magazine surveyed a Washington is between 10 to 15 years “Perhaps I will be wrong, but I think you never know in Australia.” Pepper Bridge’s dozen and a half respected viticulturists old, so who’s to say the oldest planted that vineyards older than 30 years will and vintners in Washington and found Grenache wouldn’t be [designated] winemaker, Jean-Francois Pellet, grew still be rare and considered special.” Str aw Poll: quite what they up in Switzerland where he worked that 82% indicated that old vines should old vine?” he rationalizes. “If you’re At Upland Vineyard in the Snipes with his father on a vineyard that had be a minimum of 25-30 years old in talking a ten-year-old Cabernet and Mountain AVA, grower Todd At what age is a vine are going to do. been planted by the Pope in Avignon, order to be labeled as such. a ten-year-old Grenache, there are Newhouse still harvests Muscat of considered to be shortly before sending his monks on the “A few years back a group of us probably some differences there, Alexandria every year from original —Norm McKibben, First Crusade in 1096. old timers got together to discuss between legitimately claiming an old vines planted in 1917. With more labeled as “Old Vine?” Pepper Bridge & Amavi Cellars “The old vine discussion has been what qualified as ‘old vines’ in vine status.” than 50,000 acres of vineyards in one that I have sought to get more Washington State,” says Dr. Wade Winemaker Paul Golitzin of Washington today, a vineyard of this 47% clarity as I have travelled around the Wolfe of Thurston Wolfe. “After some Quilceda Creek is reluctant to pin it age is the extreme rarity. wine world,” says Rob Mercer of discussion, we decided anything 25 on age. “Old vine designation is a Sean Tudor of Otis Vineyard, located Mercer Wine Estates. “The interesting years or older would qualify. This was tough one to answer,” he says. “Vine in the Yakima Valley, feels privileged to thing is that in Europe and California, in part based on the relative youth of age doesn’t necessarily translate to high manage the oldest surviving commercial where they have phylloxera, it doesn’t the industry. Since that discussion was quality. Only great make great blocks of Cabernet in the state, planted 35% really seem like they have much in about ten years ago, I might suggest wines, no matter what the age of the in 1957, making them 59 years old. the way of old vines, as most vineyard that the qualifying age might now vines.” Golitzin’s notion that age alone “These vines are pretty amazing to see, vines need to be replanted in about that be extended out to 30 or 35 years, or does not necessarily merit old vine some of them resembling apple tree time period. I consider old vines to anything planted before about 1985.” status is an aspect his peers agree on to trunks,” says Tudor. “We also have a be 30-plus years, slightly longer than Alphonse de Klerk of Rolling Bay varying degrees. Cabernet block planted in 1960 and a generation, so that the vine most Winery has been working with old Rick Small’s response is, “Old vines one planted in 1986. Various blocks of 18% likely has been passed from parents to vines for many years and shares a similar for me—to follow up on Paul’s point—I were planted in the early-80’s children.” view. “I think a Washington State have tasted wines that were better, and 90’s.” Washington’s wine industry has vine is mature at 25 years and can be that tasted really fabulous from young It’s worth noting that Cabernet, its fair share of mature vineyards, yet labeled Old Vine at 30-plus years,” he fruit (I’ve made some myself). But Merlot, and Todd Newhouse of Upland finding a locally produced “old vine” says. “I’m grading on a curve here: an what I’ve found in young vines is they appear to represent the lion’s share Vineyard manages numerous wine isn’t always a simple task— old vine should be old, and if the oldest are more likely to be up and down in of the oldest found across Not sure At least 30 years old vine blocks, including 1917 vineyard in Washington is say, 40-plus their quality, whereas older vines are 25 years old or plantings of Muscat of Alexandria unless you know what you’re looking the state, most likely because those for. Bottling’s are still rather scarce years, then a 25 year old vineyard is just typically much more consistent. I’d still represented the largest plantings and old greater and are not always labeled as such. past middle age.” rather always have the plants be older if have enjoyed widespread continued Source: Based on a survey response of 18 industry Unlike wines labeled “organic” under Grower Mike Sauer has been I could.” popularity in the marketplace. Other veteran viticulturists and vintners from Washington.

34 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 35 Tasting Room special report

The word “elegant” comes to mind when tasting wine from these vines, like a smooth aged whiskey. What distinguishes “Old Vine” wines? — Sean Tudor, Otis Vineyard & Tudor Hills Winery We asked winegrape growers and winemakers to tell us how grapes from “Old Vines” differ from younger vines:

old varietals include , about the great quality of wine made “More subtle and complex aromas, and depending on Syrah, Lemberger, Muscat Canelli, from old vines,” remarks Jim Holmes of how they are handled in the winery, softer tannins with Gewürtraminer, Sauvignon blanc, and Ciel du Cheval. “Perhaps some of this moderate color and lower alcohol.” perhaps a few others. is attributable to uncertainty in actual — Dr. Wade Wolfe, Thurston Wolfe Winery content of some old vineyards.” Better With Age This theory is echoed among growers “There is a definite character in old vines that is While consumers may seek out old who know that a majority of vines noticeable in the grapes and wines. It’s hard to verbalize: accentuated depth of varietal characteristics, with the key vines for nuanced flavor complexities, planted in the 70’s were from simple word being ‘depth.’ I try to be like these Cabernet old growers appreciate them for other rooted cuttings (often obtained from vines… keep getting better with age.” reasons. local vineyards) and non-certified — Paul Champoux, Champoux Vineyards “The biggest behavior difference rootstock. These materials were between young and old vines is propagated with viruses such as leaf “Exhibits more characteristics of the location, greater consistency of quality,” sums up Norm roll, a condition that can result in lower Cabernet vines, now thick as tree trunks, espressions of minerality and earthiness.” McKibben of Pepper Bridge. “The fruit yields over time, which strange were planted in 1975 by legendary researcher — Doug Roskelley, TERO Estates and Windrow Vineyard roots are well enough established in as it may sound, is a factor that can and winemaker George Carter at his farm in Otis Vineyard manager Sean Tudor older vines that they can do a quite ultimately improve wine quality. Prosser, now owned by Domanico Cellars “The typicity and sense of place show through. So, you stands next to the state’s oldest good job of regulating themselves past JJ Williams, who grew up on the have a much more complex wine, because all of these existing Cabernet vines planted in 1957 small mistakes made in . I vineyard next door to Holmes’ on Red to produce the ideal tonnage for intense things are in balance and in proportion.” have often seen very good wine made Mountain, affirms the idea. A “ ll the flavors is really coming into its own. In — Rick Small, Woodward Canyon There is certainly from three-year-old vines that seemed 1975 cuttings have leaf roll. That’s as most cases I find younger vines to be to lag in quality for some years after the much of the [old vine] story as anything more fruit forward with less complexity “Old vine wines seem more expressive of and a great discussion third year. I often say that a young vine else. Sometimes leaf roll is seen as a bad than older vines,” he says. express more complex flavors. Much like music played is like a teenager; you never know quite thing, but what leaf roll does is delay Dr. Wade Wolfe points to the on an old violin, the flavor notes are deeper, richer and about the great what they are going to do.” photosynthesis and extend hang time, fact that a combination of rigorous more nuanced than wine from younger vineyards.” — Alphonse de Klerk, Rolling Bay Winery Many of McKibben’s colleagues, and slows maturation, all of which, age-related vine maladies can cause quality of wine like Rick Small, see eye to eye. “Old if you get enough heat for things to diminished yields in older vines, but is “Anecdotally, wines made from older wines are sometimes made from plants, generally, are like older people,” ripen like we do here, is a good thing,” quick to look on the bright side. “They referred to as more balanced, more consistent, and have observes Small. “They’re grown up explains Williams. “So, how I remove also tend to have somewhat more subtle more depth; however, some wines made from younger old vines. a little bit. They’ve got deeper roots, the leaf roll part of that equation from and complex aromas, and depending vines can also offer these characteristics.” they don’t react as much to climate— the age part of the equation, I don’t on how they are handled in the winery, — Larry Pearson, Tapteil Vineyard

—JIM HOLMES, they react to it, but they react in a more know. But it does play into how the softer tannins with moderate color and Ciel du Cheval Vineyard controlled way. It’s almost like having wine ends up tasting.” lower alcohol,” he says. “Because of “I generally think older vines, properly farmed, and on the the vines on auto pilot, because they these characteristics it is unlikely that right site add an extra dimension of complexity, richness manage stress better because the roots Small Berries, Big Flavor high alcohol ‘fruit bombs’ would be and density.” are deeper.” Old vines produce only two to three produced from them.” — Casey McClellan, Seven Hills Winery Grower and vintner Doug Roskelley tons of fruit per acre, or about half “All wine consumers who are going “It has a lot to do with the complexity of the wine. A lot of of TERO Estates and Windrow the amount of younger ones. “Old to continue to enjoy Washington times I describe young vine as more fruit forward where Vineyard, the oldest commercially vineyards are established with deep State reds and whites over the next old vines have fruit intensity. The maturity of the planted vineyard in the Walla Walla roots, adapted to their environment generation or so, are going to be blessed can express itself in the wine giving more layers and Valley AVA, agrees that 25 years and set in their ways,” comments with some incredible wines,” Rick depth to the wine.” should be the minimum bar to classify Alphonse de Klerk, whose Cabernet Small summarizes, closing with, “The — Justin Michaud, Kestrel Vintners old vines. “Old vines exhibit more and Chardonnay come from old vines plants are better, the grape growing is characteristics of the location due planted at Upland Vineyard in 1979. better, the winemaking is better and the “The word ‘elegant’ comes to mind when tasting wine to more extensive root systems,” he “They produce smaller berries and less vines are better because they’re getting from these vines, like a smooth aged whiskey.” reports, saying they bring a “greater , which equals more flavor.” older, too.” — Sean Tudor, Otis Vineyard Jim Holmes of Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, one of Red Mountain’s founding fathers expression of minerality and earthiness” Justin Michaud, winemaker for both Turn the page to read about who, along with John Williams of Kiona, to the wine. Kestrel Vintners and Coyote Canyon 16 extraordinary Old Vine wines ❭❭ were the first growers in the appellation “There is certainly a great discussion concurs. “It seems like a vine that starts

35 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 36 Tasting Tasting Room PICKS old Vines of washington old Vines of washington Room PICKS

Upland Estates 2010 Woodward Canyon Rolling Bay 2014 TERO Estates 2010 Newhouse Family Flying Trout 2012 Kiona 2012 Old Block Thurston Wolfe 2011 Ampeli Ice Wine 2013 Old Vines Reserve Chardonnay Old Block Cabernet Vineyards 2014 Konnowac Vineyard Old Vine Cabernet www.uplandvineyards.com Cabernet Sauvignon www.rollingbaywinery.com Sauvignon Cottontop Aligote Old Vines www.kionawine.com Sauvignon Nose: An alluring bouquet www.woodwardcanyon.com Nose: Honeysuckle, lemon www.trwines.com www.newhousefamilyvineyards.com www.trwines.com Nose: Scintillating mocha, www.thurstonwolfe.com of jasmine, orange essence, Nose: Leather, rock, smoke, chiffon, apple, light toast and Nose: Exotic mineral spice, Nose: Complex aromas of Nose: Dark fruit, fig and cocoa black and red fruit, loam and Nose: Cigar wrapper, dark honey and mineral spice. dark brambly berries. Taste: soft spice. Taste: Texturally graphite, dark fruit and white nectarine, poached pear, nib. Taste: A hedonistic red spice. Taste: Regal, ultra- earth, slate, pencil lead and dark Taste: Unctuous and rich, Gushing with rich, opulent rich and luscious, with light fig. Taste: Pure and rich, jasmine and hints of citrus and that sweeps across the palate refined and suave, with lush fruit. Taste: Ultra-polished with this dessert wine displays earth-laced flavors of cassis and airy flavors of lemon centered around a juicy core spice. Taste: Creamy with a with bold granular tannins and tannins that permeate a core smooth tannins, and a glowing remarkable balance with and pitch black fruit with curd, apple, lime blossom, of black fruit, cassis, gravel slightly unctuous mouthfeel, dense flavors of crushed rock, of blackberry, brambly red mineral backbone of wet stone, clean mineral flavors of spice and minerality. Plush, butterscotch and mineral- pit minerality and nuances of this exotic dry white exudes loam, steeped black cherry and berry and vanilla. Swarthy graphite and crushed pebble. jasmine, honeysuckle, finely tuned tannins gain tinged baking spice. Complex dried herbs. Dark berry notes nectarine, golden delicious black currant. Hints of caramel, nuances of dark earth, granite Solidly structured, with a pillowy mandarin orange and dried momentum on the focused and elegantly balanced on the echo on the finish with smooth, apple, lime, honey, almond floral violet and sage surface on and crushed rock join the mid-palate and restrained flavors apricot on the finish.$38 and balanced finish.$99 creamy finish.$36 well-integrated tannins. $57 and river rock minerality. $36 the immense finish. $40 pillowy smooth finish.$65 of black stone fruit and fig.$30

VINEYARD: Upland VINEYARDS: Blend of three old sites VINEYARD: Upland VINEYARD: Windrow VINEYARD: Upland VINEYARD: Konnowac VINEYARD: Kiona VINEYARD: Upland PLANTED: 1917 PLANTED: Circa 1972 PLANTED: 1979 PLANTED: 1981 PLANTED: 1979 PLANTED: 1987 PLANTED: 1975 PLANTED: 1973 AVA: Snipes Mountain AVA: Columbia Valley AVA: Snipes Mountain AVA: Walla Walla Valley AVA: Snipes Mountain AVA: Rattlesnake Hills AVA: Red Mountain AVA: Snipes Mountain

37 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 38 Tasting Tasting Room PICKS old Vines of washington old Vines of washington Room PICKS

Walla Walla Vintners Rolling Bay 2013 Woodward Canyon Upland Estates Tapteil Vineyard Seven Hills 2013 Fidelitas 2010 Kestrel 2012 Signature 2012 Sagemoor Old Vine Cabernet 2013 Walla Walla Valley 2011 Old Vine 2012 Red Mountain Ciel du Cheval Block One Cabernet Series Old Vine Merlot Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Vintage Red Wine Sauvignon www.kestrelwines.com Sauvignon www.rollingbaywinery.com www.woodwardcanyon.com www.uplandvineyards.com www.tapteil.com www.sevenhillswinery.com www.fidelitaswines.com Nose: Dark red and black fruit, www.wallawallavintners.com Nose: Gravelly aromas of Nose: Aromatic peach, Nose: Dark red fruit mingled Nose: Red and black fruit, Nose: Black fruit, earth and Nose: Dark red fruit, dried tobacco, sage and vanilla. Nose: Red berries, currant, red berries, floral violet apricot, bright citrus essence, with graphite, sage, mulberry tobacco, violet and exotic spice. Taste: Powerfully built herbs and graphite. Taste: Taste: A Cab-lover’s Merlot, leather and coffee bean. Taste: and pencil lead. Taste: almond and a whiff of vanilla. spice and coffee bean. Taste: spice. Taste: Pure, rich and with distinctive personality, Distinctive earth-driven this red is tightly wound with Poised, structured and lushly Concentrated, fine-tuned Taste: Sleek, harmonious Supple and concentrated, with full-bodied with blackberry, this Bordeaux varietal blend flavors of wet stone and dried well-integrated firm tannins, textured with pillowy tannins. and deftly balanced with and seamless with peach, lovely complex layers of gravel, cherry and plum supported by is firm and focused, with basil interwoven with subtle and an earthy core of deep Vivid flavors of steeped dark polished tannins. Loam and apple, lime and delicate spice tobacco, red berries, currant, granular tannins and accents dense flavors of cassis, red black fruit. Firmly structured rooted minerality, backed by fruit with mocha, toffee, loam tobacco notes are framed over a framework of polished blue plum and dried basil. A of cocoa, vanilla, ganache berry, blackberry, leather, with fine chalky tannins that intriguing notes of black olive, and gravelly undertones that by ample flavors of cassis, minerality. The finish is firm sheen of minerality and lush and tea. The finish reveals cocoa, minerality and firm persist on the finish with anise, dried herbs, cola, cassis saturate the long finish.$44 black cherry and anise. $34 and remarkably balanced. $66 tannins coat the long finish.$36 expressive earthy notes. $54 tannins. $45 notes of loamy soil. $100 and dark red fruit. $50

VINEYARD: Sagemoor (Bacchus) VINEYARD: Upland VINEYARD: Woodward Canyon VINEYARD: Upland VINEYARD: Tapteil VINEYARD: Ciel du Cheval VINEYARD: : Kestrel PLANTED: 1972 PLANTED: 1979 PLANTED: 1977 PLANTED: 1973 PLANTED: 1985 PLANTED: 1976 PLANTED: 1972 PLANTED: 1972 AVA: Columbia Valley AVA: Snipes Mountain AVA: Walla Walla Valley AVA: Snipes Mountain AVA: Red Mountain AVA: Red Mountain AVA: Horse Heaven Hills AVA: Yakima Valley

39 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 40