Chios Ophrys Odyssey A Greentours Tour Report 5– 15 th April 2010 Led by Mike Taylor, Stefano Doglio and Oliver Cheney. Day 1 Monday 5 th April Arrival Apart from Mike Taylor, who had been in Chios since mid March, all participants arrived by various routes and carriers by Monday 8 pm. All flights operated to schedule and the whole party was safely installed in their accommodation at the Voulamandis House by 8.30pm. Maria Voulamandis had prepared a fine meal of Scorpion fish and other dishes which were despatched with relish. Most retired early to their well warmed rooms for a good nights sleep. Day 2 Tuesday 6 th April Emporios & Kato Fana The day dawned with bright but coolish conditions. Our first stop of the day was a short distance from Emporios, where Anthea identified the first orchid of the trip, Orchis italica. The group of Ophrys bombyliflora first discovered during the Greentours visit in 2008, had expanded further. Nearby we examined and photographed extensive patches of Ophrys cesmeensis. Other orchids seen in the area included the recently described Ophrys orphanidea , also Ophrys umbilicata, Ophrys sicula, Orchis pyramidalis, Himantoglossum robertianum, Orchis anatolica and Serapias bergonii. Other plants seen at this site included Tulipa undulatifolia, Tragopogon hybridum and Allium trifoliatum. Large White, Orange Tip and Eastern Dappled White were seen. We spent some time in a rough field beside the road and a low rocky ridge along its northern edge, to the sound of Corn and Black-headed Buntings. Many orchids were soon found including scores of Ophrys orphanidea together with Orchis italica, Himantoglossum robertianum, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys umbilicata, Ophrys mammosa, Ophrys regis-ferdinandii and five plants of Ophrys attaviria. Three fine plants of Ophrys calypsus were much admired and photographed these were growing strongly up through the low spiny machis shrubs. Other plants seen included Allium nigrum, Ornithogalum narbonense and Orobanche ramosa. We then drove to our picnic lunch stop at the Appolinus Temple and small church at Kato Fana, pausing on our way to admire a fine group of Tulipa undulatifolia together with a few 1 plants of Ophrys mammosa . Whilst the picnic was being prepared the group explored the surrounding area. After finishing the picnic we explored the varied habitats in the area, finding more Ophrys umbilicata and Ophrys sicula. Moving inland away from the beach we found Ophrys ferrum-equinum and Ophrys mammosa . Unfortunately Orchis punctulata, seen in previous visits, had failed to appear this year. We arrived back at the Voulamandis farm at 5.30pm. The plant checklist discussion in the early evening took rather long, plants seen during the day included 18 species of orchids. An excellent dinner saw most retiring soon afterwards. Day 3 Wednesday 7 th April Kalamoti, Komi & Pyrgi We left the Voulamandis farm at 9am in bright warm sunny conditions. We soon arrived at our first site of the day where many orchids were in flower on the phrygana-covered south-facing slope, many of them rather worn due to the early season. Orchis italica and Ophrys sicula were encountered as we entered the area followed by some rather faded Ophrys iricolor, however Judy soon found a nice Ophrys leochroma plant in the shade of a small shrub. Several Ophrys orphanidea, Ophrys umbilicata and Orchis picta var caucasica plants were found, and a very faded Ophrys blitopertha. Other plants seen included Globularia alypum and Cytinus hypocistus, the parasite of Cistus. Many butterflies were on the wing including Common Blue, Clouded Yellow, Eastern Dappled White and Orange Tip. Moving to the second site at Kalamoti as we found a number of species of interest. The Ophrys mammosa were very dried out , other orchids included Orchis italica, Orchis picta var caucasica, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys orphanidea, Ophrys umbilicata, Ophrys cinereophila and Ophrys calypsus . Walter found an immature Praying Mantis, genus Empusa, these were seen subsequently on most days of the trip, and were always the subject of much photography. We were unable to reach our planned picnic site at Blackstone Beach due to road closures so we diverted to the little harbour at Komi where the picnic was prepared under somewhat threatening skies. The picnic was eaten in cool conditions with a few spots of rain falling. Nearby we found numbers of Glaucium flavum. After our picnic lunch we went to a small rocky hill beside the road from Pyrgi to Olympi seeing Alpine Swift en-route. We explored the site in warm sunshine seeing two new orchids for the trip, Ophrys sitiaca and Ophrys pelinaea. Other orchids seen included Orchis picta var caucasica and very advanced Serapias bergonii. Other plants seen included Lupinus varius and Bellardia trixago . Additional butterflies for the day included Cleopatra and Swallowtail, birds included Yellow- legged Gull and House Martins. The group made a cultural stop at the picturesque black and white decorated mastic village of Pyrgi where refreshments were taken. They returned to the Voulamandis Farm by 5.15pm. Day 4 Thursday 8 th April Avgonima, Lithi & Armolia 2 The usual 9am start saw the group on their way via Chios Town to Avgonima. En-route, below Nea Moni Monastery, a stop was made to view over one hundred fine flowering plants of Cyclamen persicum. Other plants seen included Campanula lyrata and Anemone pavonina. We then stopped in the inland hill village of Avgonima and explored the central square and collected some orchid posters which Giorgos Missetzis had left for the members of the group. We briefly explored the village noting the progress being made in tastefully renovating some of the old stone houses. Plants seen included Malcolmia chia and Umbilicus rupestris . We then went to the hilltop village of Anavatos perched on a natural rock garden with plants including Asphodelus lutea, Ornithologum collinum and Tragopogon porrifolius. Proceeding to Elinta Bay the group was soon engaged in plant hunting, orchids seen included many fine and varied Ophrys ferrum-equinum, also Ophrys orphanidea, Ophrys sicula, Orchis italica and Serapias bergonii. Other plants seen included Centauria pulchellum, Gagea graeca and Onosma rigidum. At 1pm we arrived at the fish taverna at Lithi where Mike had arranged for a fine lunch of fish which he had selected earlier in the morning, the fish were accompanied by a traditional selection of other Greek dishes and liquid refreshment. We then moved on to our final stop of the day, an upland valley near Armolia. We were hoping to see newly arrived Rüppell’s Warblers on this one of their known regular Chios breeding locations. However we were not successful. We did find Ophrys orphanidea, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys homeri, Ophrys tenthredinifera and Ophrys regis-ferdinandii in the area. Birds included Common Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle and Sardinian Warbler. Butterflies seen during the day included Wall Brown, Cleopatra, Eastern Dappled White, Orange Tip, Small Copper, Common Blue, Large White and Red Admiral. We arrived back at the Voulamandis Farm at 5.45pm. Day 5 Friday 9 th April Olympi, Pyrgi & Blackstone Beach A prompt start at 9am saw the group on the way to Olympi, a site with 35 species of orchid recorded in an area of approx 5 hectares. Entering the area we saw a very faded Ophrys mammosa then on the first terrace Ophrys orphanidea, Epipactis turcica (not in flower), Orchis anthropophora, Orchis intacta, Himantoglossum robertianum, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys cinereophila, Orchis italica, Orchis anatolica and then a 'hybrid swarm' of Ophrys based on Ophrys parosica. No two plants were the same with great variation in form and colour. Moving higher up the site we found another 'hybrid swarm' again appearing to be based on Ophrys parosica but this time rather less variable than the group lower down the hillside. Finally the group looked at a group of five plants of Ophrys lindia all growing within a metre of each other, four were rather faded but one was in fine condition and subject to much photography. A total of twenty one species of orchid were seen during our visit to this site. Other plants seen here included Cytinus ruber, Polygala monspeliaca and Medicago orbicularis. We then went to an area where we found six plants of Ophrys masticorum in fine flower. Other orchids seen included Ophrys villosa, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys umbilicata, Orchis italica and Ophrys regis-ferdinandii. A group of Ophrys parosica were found all of a more or less consistent colour 3 and labellum shape, in contrast to the Ophrys parosica based 'hybrid swarms' seen in the last few days. Other plants seen here included Trifolium uniflorum and Trifolium stellatum. We then went to the Blackstone Beach, denied to us two days before due to road closures, for a sea birdwatch for shearwaters, however none were see. The botanical party headed up the beach to view the spectacular basalt cliffs and volcanic ash stratas containing ballistic pebbles. Several plants of Campanula hagiellii were seen growing in the narrow rock fissures. Other plants seen included Silene behen and Pancratium maritimum in leaf. We returned early to the Voulamandis House to allow the party to spend some time in Chios Town prior to taking our evening meal. We all enjoyed a late meal after which suitcases were packed ready for transfer to Marmaro the following day. Day 6 Saturday 10 th April Nea Moni, Avgonima & Marmaro Transfer day to Marmaro dawned clear and warm and with the large luggage being sent to our hotel in Marmaro ahead of us. We arrived at the Nea Moni Monastery at 9.45am having made an initial stop to look down at the monastery from the road above. We were soon finding orchids including Ophrys sicula, Ophrys iricolor, Ophrys umbilicata, Orchis anatolica and Himantoglossum robertianum.