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Antarctic Magazine September 2016

Antarctic Magazine September 2016

THE PUBLICATION OF THE NEW ZEALAND SOCIETY Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 34, No. Vol

LAGACE LEGACY EDITION

Voyaging to

04

9 770003 532006 Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 Issue 238 Contents www.antarctic.org.nz

is published quarterly by the New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc. ISSN 0003-5327 The New Zealand Antarctic Society is a Registered Charity CC27118

EDITOR: Lester Chaplow ASSISTANT EDITOR: Janet Bray New Zealand Antarctic Society PO Box 404, Christchurch 8140, New Zealand Email: [email protected]

INDEXER: Mike Wing The deadlines for submissions to future issues are 1 February, 1 May, 1 August and 1 November.

PATRON OF THE NEW ZEALAND In my Mind I’m Goin’ to Antarctica 45 ANTARCTIC SOCIETY: Professor Peter Barrett, 2008 From the Editor 46 NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY LIFE MEMBERS From the President 46 The Society recognises with life membership, those people who excel in furthering the aims Into Antarctic Seas 47 and objectives of the Society or who have given outstanding service in Antarctica. They are elected by vote at the Annual General Meeting. Voyage of Adventure: Ancient Māori The number of life members can be no more of the 48 than 15 at any one time. Current Life Members by the year elected: Worsley Enchanted 51 1. Robin Ormerod (Wellington), 1996 2. Baden Norris (Canterbury), 2003 A Journey of Hope 52 3. Bill Cranfield (Canterbury), 2003 4. Randal Heke (Wellington), 2003 The Captain’s Pyjamas 54 5. Arnold Heine (Wellington), 2006 6. Margaret Bradshaw (Canterbury), 2006 HMS Protector (A146) – RN ice patrol vessel 56 7. Ray Dibble (Wellington), 2008 8. Norman Hardie (Canterbury), 2008 Recent Polar Vessel Projects 58 9. Colin Monteath (Canterbury), 2014 10. John Parsloe (Canterbury), 2014 : Britain’s secret wartime expedition 11. Graeme Claridge (Wellington), 2015 to Antarctica 1944-46 61 12. David Harrowfield (Oamaru), 2016 13. Robert Park (Christchurch), 2016 The End of the Heroic Era 62 14. Graham White (Auckland), 2016 ELECTED OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY: Brissenden's Grave 64 National President: Mariska Wouters South Island Vice-President: Margaret Bradshaw Queries / Letters 64 North Island Vice-President: Linda Kestle National Secretary: Myra Walton What’s in a Name? Back Cover National Treasurer: Lester Chaplow Immediate Past-President: Jud Fretter DO WE HAVE YOUR CORRECT CONTACT DETAILS? BRANCH CHAIRS: Auckland: Linda Kestle Are your membership and contact details up to date? You will have recently received your membership renewal invoice. Please check the details and contact our Membership Officer – Canterbury: Vacant [email protected] – if anything needs to be corrected. In particular, Wellington: Robin Falconer with the sharp rise in postage costs we would appreciate having your email address.

Cover photo: First landing in Antarctica at . Photo courtesy of Philippa Ross. Photo above: USCGC Polar Star (WAGB10) and USCGC Polar Sea (WAGB11), side by side in McMurdo Sound, Antarctica. Source: http://www.uscg.mil/pacarea/cgcpolarsea/history.asp on 20 Nov 2016. Back cover: Hector's dolphin. Photo courtesy of Steve Dawson/Hedgehog House. Issue 238 In my Mind I’m Goin’ to Antarctica By Ken McAnergney

Story One – in the form of a karakia (a prayer-type incantation): Our ancestor tells of our waka Tauranga in the deep south Our ancestor tells of the frequent voyages to Maunga Huka Our ancestor tells of the many fires and warm house on Maunga Huka Our ancestor tells of the journey south to the land of Parawhenuamea Our ancestor tells of the journey south to secrete the bones of the Ariki Our ancestor tells us that these bones must be left in Maunga Papawaitoka Our ancestor tells us that this mountain was begat by two of the children of Papatuanuku Our ancestor tells us that they were Tawhirimatea and Parawhenuamea Our ancestor tells us that the Kaitiaki of Parawhenua mea is Tekuwatawata Our ancestor tells us that Tekuwatawata is also Kaitiaki of Tohu nui a Rangi Our ancestor tells us that she might speak on our behalf to Hine nui te po.

Story Two – a narrative: Tawhirimatea, god of the winds, was still very cross about the forced separation of his parents and so sought consolation by lying with Parawhenuamea and together they begat several children:

Matakite i Parawhenuamea

Ka moe a Tawhirimatea i a Parawhenuamea

Ka putu ki waho nga tamariki o Papawaihau tutu and the ice storms were created And then came the child Papakawaipapa and the ice was created And then came the child Papawaitoka and the blocks of ice were created And then came the child Papawaikohatu and the crags of ice were created And then came the child Hukarerenui and the driving snow was created And then came the child Hukarereroa and the long winter snow was created And then came the child Hukarerewhanui and the all-engulfing snow was created And then came the child Hukarereputuputu and the built-up snow was created And then came the child Paphuri iho and the re-freezing snow was created And then came the child Papawaipukupuku and the mountainous ice was created And then came the child Maunga Papawaitoka and the smoking mountain was created Could this be Erebus? It must be Erebus.

And finally Tangaroa, the god of the seas, in a Wananga with all the great whales of the ocean, was told that being huge and needing a lot of food to survive was a problem, especially for the great Paikea and his family. Tangaroa saw that it would be much easier for him to arrange for this bulk-feeding by providing rapidly-reproducing small fish (krill) in very large drifts for Paikea to scoop up as he swam through them. The problem, though, was that Paikea had mighty teeth when what he really needed was a series of small nets and so Tangaroa created them. They were called Te Kupenga o Paikea and the huge teeth were taken away from that whole family and now rest in the ohanga (cradle) of the gods of Antarctica. Māori still catch small fish with finely woven nets that are called, predictably, Te Kupenga o Paikea.

From Imagining Antarctica: Critical Perspectives on the Southern Continent. Edited by Ralph Crane, Elizabeth Leane and Mark Williams. Hobart: Quintus Publishing, 2011, pp.119–121. Used with permission.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 45 NEWS

From the Editor Welcome to our second enlarged edition of Antarctic, Heritage Expeditions, which recorded on that voyage funded with assistance from a bequest of Mr Francois E. the furthest south that any vessel had ever sailed: A. Lagace. Mr Lagace died in 2001, and left a portion 78o 43.971’ S surpassing the previous record of 78o29.9 S of his estate to the Society. by USCG Polar Sea on 5 February 1984. Our shared love for Antarctica gives us a common Around the time New Zealand assumed control interest and passion; a passion that has taken many for the Region, the focus in the Ross Sea of our members to the icy continent, and created an was whaling, and in The Captain’s Pyjamas Andrew unfulfilled wish for many others. For a long time the Leachman writes of Captain Hooper, New Zealand’s only way to travel to Antarctica was by sea – a voyage first appointed Administrator for the . of some time and often some discomfort. Now, there are Following the recent visit to New Zealand of HMS those few who commute to Antarctica for a day’s work Protector, Fred Davey remembers an earlier voyage on and return within 24 hours. This issue of Antarctic is a ship of the same name, when as a civilian scientist he themed around voyaging to Antarctica – voyaging by took gravity readings around the . sea, from the pre-history of Aotearoa New Zealand, With the recent announcements of new Antarctic to a glimpse of the future. ships for both the Royal Australian Navy and the Royal We began with a Māori karakia and a narrative New Zealand Navy, Anderson Chaplow looks at some recording the creation of Antarctica, In my Mind I’m Goin’ Recent Polar Vessel Projects. As up to date as we can to Antarctica, and follow with two accounts of Māori be with modern polar shipping, you can see the keel- journeys, Into Antarctic Seas, and Voyage of Adventure: laying ceremony for the RRS Sir David Attenborough Ancient Māori discovery of the South Pole. Some recent at www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgdgCekxLH0. PCAS students with Gateway Antarctica have also A return to French Pass for an update on Brissenden’s explored this theme, and their reports are available from grave, and a review of the book Operation Tabarin: www.anta.canterbury.ac.nz/courses/gcas/reports.shtml. Britain’s secret wartime expedition to Antarctica Recorded Antarctic interaction, and , 1944–46, conclude this issue, along with a pensive then jump to the 1800s, and Philippa Ross writes of rumination, entitled What’s in a Name? on our back cover. following in her great-great-great-grandfather’s wake in A Journey of Hope. Philippa travelled south with Lester Chaplow

From the President I am pleased to announce that two of our members Navy warmly invite you to mark 100 years since the have been accepted by Antarctica New Zealand end of the Heroic Era. A conference will take place at to volunteer at this coming summer. the National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy Gus Anning and Tony Thrupp were selected from 18 in Auckland on 24–26 March 2017 (see pages 62–63 eligible applications and will be helping the Antarctic of this issue). Heritage Trust on the conservation of the Hillary’s During the nights of 24–26 March 2017 (the same TAE/IGY Hut. dates as “The End of the Heroic Era” conference) Following the Antarctic Society’s AGM on the world premiere of “Antarctica: While You Were 29 October 2016, your Council is unchanged. Annual Sleeping” will show at the Auckland War Memorial Accounts presented to the AGM are also available on Museum. All sides of the museum’s exterior walls will the Charities Service website (www.charities.govt.nz). be the canvas for a one-to-one-scale projection of an At the AGM we also noted the passing of life , a display that will be set to an original music Members Jim Lowery and Bill Hopper, and confirmed score. Entry will be free. More information can be found nominations for life membership to be awarded to David at: www.aucklandfestival.co.nz. Harrowfield, Robert (Bob) Park, and Graham White. We trust that you enjoy your voyage to Antarctica If you have an interest in Antarctic history, through this issue’s articles. the Antarctic Society’s Auckland Branch in cooperation with the National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Mariska Wouters

46 Issue 238 FIRST VOYAGERS

Into Antarctic Seas

By Max Wickham

As navigators and deep water sailors the early Polynesians were probably without peer. Their population spread through the Pacific area, ultimately reaching the farthest points of settlement. Their arrival even at Easter Island, that isolated pin-point on the map midway over the vast Pacific Ocean, was indicative of the astonishing ability and courage of the people in the great dug-out canoes.

ailing directions, passed never be known, but it is certain that and rimmed by bare white rocks through the generations many islands in the Polynesian group rising sheer from the sea. This was S in the form of karakia, were peopled by folk who made a land where the sun did not shine or chants, guided these people on landfall on distant shores and owed and where fog banks shrouded the visits to relatives and friends on their lives to this ancient tradition. passage of the canoe. far-flung island homes which often It would seem that exploratory Te Arutanga Nuka mentioned necessitated many days of journey voyages were not confined to the giant female who dwelt in the dark waters and whose tresses waved in the currents. Perhaps these “Sailing directions, passed through the generations in the form were the leaves of the bull-kelp, of karakia, or chants, guided these people…” which grows to great size in cooler latitudes. He and his sailors saw herds of “that deceitful animal of on open ocean. Perforated gourds tropical waters. Early pakeha the seas that dives to great depths” – and carefully angled wood and investigators heard karakia among almost certainly not the whale, with shell frames served as navigational the east coast tribes commemorating which they would all be familiar, instruments, and simple charts heroes such as Te Ui Rangiora, but probably the sea elephant, one were sometimes woven in fibrous who in a canoe called Te Iwi O of the seal species. materials as an aid to memory. Atea followed the great wave The names and accounts of Voyages were not always such crests as far south as the icefields of these voyages were preserved in carefully organised events however. Savage warfare periodically erupted, insult to a man’s family or property “Te Ui Rangiora … followed the great wave crests as far south often touching off bloody fighting as the icefields of Antarctica…” from which there was no escape except by sea. And yet, even at such times of Antarctica more than 1,200 years the folklore over a wide sphere of bitterness, there would often come ago. Several centuries later another Polynesia, references being a quixotic twist as the vanquished fearless argonaut Te Arutanga Nuka, traced in Rarotonga as well as in chieftain was allowed a canoe, turned the prow of his canoe into the New Zealand. limited provisions, and his family and, enduring bitter and closest friends to accompany winds and spray which numbed the him, to be banished forever from bodies of him and his crew, saw From Firelight Tales of Māoridom, by Max Wickham. his homeland. wondrous things which have been 1976. © Paul Hamlyn Limited, pp.16–17. We have How many canoes, how many perpetuated in song. been unable to contact the copyright holder, men, women and children were lost Before them lay a vast land or the author. If notified, Antarctic magazine will be pleased to rectify any errors or omissions at in the vast reaches of the ocean will shimmering like scraped fern root the earliest opportunity.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 47 FIRST VOYAGERS

Voyage of Adventure: Ancient Māori discovery of the South Pole

By Hare Hongi

In the Māori world, the most of intrepid of ancient mariners was Tamarereti, briefly referred to as Reti; and this story tell of his adventure on the frigid South Polar regions.

rom the very earliest a magnificent ocean-going canoe passage he was to release his bird, times the ancient Māori was built of totara, finished off with closely watch its flight and be guided F had observed the far deep and splendid top-sides, and a by the course it followed. southern region at night, when its beautifully carved prow, and stern- Before entering “this awful whole area appeared to be ablaze. piece, highly ornamented with the turmoil of devil-wracked waters,” Was it on fire? He could not say, but iridescent paua shell and decorated Reti ordered every man to blindfold it appeared so, and he noted that it with plumes of feathers. It was (kopare) himself; this they all did, occurred at well-marked intervals. named Te Itua a Maalin. When all with the exception of the two sages. The origin and meaning of these was ready, seventy (hoko-whitu) When approaching the narrows, and glorious lights were a puzzle to young chiefs offered to accompany when there was already a feeling the Māori sages (tohungas). It was Reti in his dangerous enterprise. on board that the canoe was being suggested that a god had his temple As they were already noted for sucked under, Reti released his bird. there and that those darting shafts resourcefulness and self-reliance, Reti It flew straight upward, surveyed of splendour were the signals of accepted them, and himself selected the narrow passage (the home of his activities. This suggestion was two aged scientists (tohungas) for Kaihau-a-Waro “Pelorous Jack”), accepted by some and rejected the voyage, their duties being to and then lowered itself. Soaring just by others. make special observations. Having above the surface of madly rushing As to the nature of Tamarereti, taken aboard preserved foods, water, waters, the bird took a diagonal although much detail is buried away arms and fishing paraphernalia – the course, upon reaching that side of in the mists of antiquity, enough tohungas took fire-generating sticks the passage, it turned and again remains clearly to show that he was of kai-komako – the large party soared diagonally to the opposite not of the order of gods, demi-gods embarked and sailed away, carrying shore. But while it was preparing to or volcanic deities. He was most with them the farewell messages turn, the treacherous waters seized a certainly a mortal being, and he is – “Be prosperous and return safely: wing and broke it, and the bird was – in the Māori world – universally – of their people of Aotearoa. instantly transfixed. Transformed accepted as such. For there is the fact Now, Reti had had a vision into stone, it remains fixed there. that, as a result of his memorable (matakite), in which he was advised (This rock projects into the water voyage, his party brought back to try out his outfit by taking at the narrowest part of the passage – with their dead leader – certain the narrow rock-bound passage and a small lighthouse has been built human particulars of the physical of seething and whirling waters, on it.) Reti had watched all this, aspects of the South Polar region. known as Te Aumiti, or “The and calling upon his men to paddle Reti announced, then, that he Suction Current” (now known as with all of their might, he steered would voyage to the far South, “The French Pass,” in which that a zig-zag course, darted past his and endeavour to wrest the secret daring French navigator, D’Urville, “bird-in-stone,” and got through of those golden glories from their had a trying and dangerous without mishap. source. It was very wrong of him experience with his vessel). Reti then ordered his men to to speak in that way – a bad omen The vision told Reti to take with him remove their eye-bandages. They (aitua); but such is the way of a hero! his sacred cormorant bird (kawau), did so, simultaneously looking back Under Reti’s supervision, and before reaching the narrow to see what they had passed through.

48 Issue 238 FIRST VOYAGERS

French Pass, D’Urville Island, Marlborough Sounds. Whites Aviation Ltd: Photographs. Ref: WA-47702-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. http://natlib.govt.nz/records/30642385.

Explanation was unnecessary; spread and many willing villagers was built up, on which the semi- that they had escaped calamity quickly assembled, but the canoe restored canoe was erected. Then the was obvious. struck a rock and was wrecked and bodies of the voyagers were placed Having reached the open ocean, the bodies of the voyagers – it was in the canoe in a sitting position, and Reti set course true south, around Reti’s canoe – were washed ashore, robed in the choicest of garments, which the Southern Cross (Te Kahui mangled by the rocks. As they came and Tamarereti himself was placed Rua-Maahu) circles. in, one proved to be the body of Reti in the centre on a raised platform. waxed and waned, himself, and they were reverently Magnificently attired he appeared but there were no tidings of attended to. Of all that band, to be holding a powwhenua staff in Tamarereti and his fearless men. two alone showed signs of life – one his hand. The home people became anxious, of the sages, and a member of the At night when all was ready, and word was passed along for crew. Under the care of skilled hands the pile was lit from end to end; thus strict watch to be kept throughout they were restored to consciousness a blaze of glory, in the presences of the coasts. As a result, one morning and lived long enough to tell the assemble multitude and to the after an exceptionally stormy and a coherent story. solemn chants of their priesthood, tempestuous night, the watchers The wrecked canoe was the bodies of Reti and his gallant saw a foundering canoe approaching recovered, and while it was being band, and the canoe itself were the rock-bound coast. The alarm was dried a pile of brush and firewood reduced to ashes. Truly a sacrifice Continued on next page »

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 49 FIRST VOYAGERS

on the altar of science and discovery! Darkness was continuous except the name of “Little Jewel-casket The story of the dying survivors, when lit up by the splendours of of Reti” (Te Putea io a Reti). The or what remains of it, is brief the southern lights. The whole canoe of Tamarereti (Te Waka o enough. They had reached the far atmosphere blazed with the brilliance Tamarereti) stretched along to the south, where they had encountered of ever-changing and many-coloured star Canopus (Autahi), which is the precipitous ice-cliffs which towered radiances. There were many and jewel adorning the stern post. The up straight above the sea. In parts, strange designs, some of which “Pointers” represents the anchor- these were broken and irregular and appeared to be definitely created rope (Te Taura o te punga) and the no footing could be obtained. There from below; others appeared to “Dark Hole,” near by, represent the were mountain ranges upon which take on changing forms in the air. anchor of the canoe of Tamarereti the fires of Maui (volcanic) could be It appeared that two forces were at (Te Punga o te Waka o Tamarereti). seen burning. But the whole country work – an upper force which came (It should be explained that the was wrapped in ice and snow. down to, met, and doubled the lower anchor of a Māori canoe usually As the sages had predicted, force back on itself. At times the consist of a piece of solid rock, more it was a good season for viewing the atmosphere seemed to be on fire, for or less round.) In this way, then, the glories of the southern lights (Aurora it steamed or smoked, and gave out name and fame of Tamarereti, and Australis). The days are shortened a sound as of burning flax. of his memorable canoe-voyage to until the sun totally disappeared, Then came the tragedy. the South Pole, has been fittingly and with it, too, the . There Tamarereti, their leader, had commemorated. Also, since that was only, then, the light of the stars, been choked to death in the act event, those southern lights have and the progress of time was kept of swallowing a tiny fish, and been known as “The golden-glories by the position of the Milky Way (te insignificant shrimp (“He paku te of Dame Darkness primeval” (Nga mangaroa) and the Southern Cross. ika, i rama ai a Tamarereti”), and kurakura o Hine nui te po). They “To e o te tonga, o whariki mai they had partly embalmed the body are shrouded in profound darkness, ra e,2 and brought it back with them. and the ancient Māori decided that “Na runga i nga hiwi: They had experienced a hard voyage they are merely a means of releasing “Nga Pari-huka e, te ika-tawira, back, and were weak and spent from surplus -and-space energy – “Ka whakapou nei ou, i.” exposure. Then the end came. energy which cannot, in that dark “The atmosphere of the south, Since that time it has been taught and frigid region be used for the outspreading wide, and believed that Reti’s canoe and its production and maintenance of life. “Above the mountain ranges: contents were together transferred “Beyond icy cliffs, where male to the South Polar sky, as signs for fish abound, all future generations. The Southern From: Hongi, H. (1925) “Voyage of Adventure, Ancient Māori discovery of the South Pole.” In The “And wonders to which I Cross is shown to be the ornamental Weekly Press, Christchurch NZ. Thursday 18 June humbly bow.” prow of the canoe, and is known by 1925 (front page and following).

Maori war canoe, dug out of a single log, carrying 100 warriors (No. 6). Taheretikitiki. [Postcard]. Design registered by Harding and Billing, no. 183 12/6/03 [1903]. [Ephemera relating to Maori. 1900-1919]. Ref: Eph-A-MAORI-1903-02. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. http://natlib.govt.nz/records/30647215.

2 The Māori text is indistinct in the source document (Ed.).

50 Issue 238 Worsley Enchanted

he small boat voyage in the James Caird, The New Zealand Antarctic Society is pleased from to South Georgia, is to announce the release of a stand-alone edition of T a classic epic of man vs. ocean. The boat Worsley Enchanted in the centennial year of the voyage was navigated by New Zealander Frank Worsley, and of the James Caird. the story, told from his perspective, was penned as a Copies are available from the Society at poem, Worsley Enchanted, by Douglas Stewart, and [email protected]. The price is first published in serial form in The Bulletin, in 1948. NZ$15.00 + postage (NZ$5 within New Zealand, and It has subsequently been included in three anthologies. NZ$7 for overseas).

Name:

Address:

Email:

Phone:

Please send me copies of Worsley Enchanted @ $NZ15.00 each...... $NZ Plus Postage (NZ$5, Overseas: NZ$7)...... $NZ

Payment by: Cheque (payable to NZ Antarctic Society)

Mastercard/Visa/AMEX Wor sle y Direct deposit to NZAS account Enchanted Card no: DOUGLAS STEWART Expiry date: Card security code:

(The last three numbers on the back of Visa/Mastercard Signature: or four numbers from the front of the Amex card)

NZ Antarctic Society Please send to: 5 account details are: New Zealand Antarctic Society 10 He hears Crean singing at the tiller of the James Caird, when, with the singer, Shackleton, Worsley in the hurricane. and three other men, he is voyaging in the ship’s 02-0800-0685108-02 PO Box 404 Not the hunger not the thirst, Not the shrieking knife of the gale boat to South Georgia to bring help to the men All this world’s a world accursed; Slashing off the comber’s crest, on Elephant Island. Since the day we lost the Endurance Not the land we found and lost, Nothing’s come but came like nonsense; But here the whole world stands on its head New Zealand Antarctic Christchurch 8140 Black she lay with her frosty mast, Crazy alive and crazy dead. “Nine hundred stormy miles” Here’s their dirtiest trick at last. Stand up straight or upside-down, The wet wind sang to Crean, Not the storm, the devil take it, Die in your bed or swim and drown And Crean sang at the tiller I can bale it out in a bucket, But why and in what shadow play “The Wearin’ o’ the Green”. Society Inc. New Zealand or But on what fool’s errand bent Fights a man till break of day To cross the Antarctic continent Where the hurricane that raves “South Georgia’s far away Came I here to the South at all? Where the midnight, where the waves And Ireland’s further yet, Are shadows of some vaster doom And black are the night and the sea

Shaking the spirit, seen in dream? For a man to be singing at.” BNZ, Christchurch Branch [email protected]

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 51 HERITAGE

A Journey of Hope

By Philippa Ross, the great-great-great-granddaughter of Sir

t has been a journey fraught with difficulties; to work collaboratively to protect the entire planet. but as the Ross family crest says, “Hope The benefits of working in harmony with nature far I lightens difficulties,” and thanks to decades outweigh any loss – she is after all the indomitable force of work and the hope held in the hearts of hundreds that sustains all life. of passionate and persistent individuals, scientists, As the great-great-great-granddaughter of environmental groups, and diplomats from all over the Sir James Clark Ross (JCR), who discovered the world, the battle to protect the Ross Sea – the soul of Ross Sea, my heart is bursting with pride and eternal Antarctica – has been won. gratitude to everyone involved in making this a reality. On Friday 28 October 2016 CCAMLR (Commission JCR was a true pioneer, who sailed unchartered waters, for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living discovering and the Ross Sea in what Resources) created a legendary agreement to safeguard Amundsen described as “ponderous tubs” – a man the richest source of life in the Southern Ocean. It’s an who’s remembered as one of the most capable seamen historic attainment for “The Last Ocean”. The most the world has ever produced, and a votary of science to pristine marine system left on earth now has 1.55 million whom Antarctic scientific exploration owes so much. square kilometres of protection; a lifesaver to sustain I owe much to so many, particularly Rodney Russ the biodiversity of life that inhabits these sacred waters. of Heritage Expeditions, who generously gifted me a Not only is the Marine Protected Area (MPA) in the place on the company’s inaugural 35-day expedition Ross Sea the world’s largest, but it’s also the first MPA to Antarctica called “In the Wake of Ross, Scott, and to include the high seas. A no-take fishing zone of 1.2 Amundsen”, honouring the 175th anniversary since JCR million square kilometres has been set aside, while some first chartered the waters. My own “voyage of discovery” harvesting of fish and krill for scientific research will be was quite unlike his perilous journey in ponderous tubs! permitted within the remainder of the MPA. Protection The dominant difference was that I knew where I was for the area will come into force in December 2017. going and when I’d be back! There’ll be many happy feet tapping in Antarctica, My most momentous memory of the journey was in addition to those belonging to people across the world the night my uncle James and I were invited to visit whose heart song has been validated. I now hope the Possession Island – the first place in Antarctica that JCR monumental collaboration between the 25 country had landed all those years ago. Floating ice prohibited members of CCAMLR sets a benchmark for the world us from actually landing on the island, so the crew

Photo above: , , with a splendid view of “contemptuously puffing” (JCR’s words in his diary) in the background.

52 Issue 238 HERITAGE

My uncle James Hood Ross and I at Possession Island, repossessing it! First landing in Antarctica at Cape Adare. drove the nose of the Zodiac onto a piece large enough The significance of the agreement to me is even for us both to stand on so we could take a photo with more profound because it comes at the end of the 175th the island behind us, to commemorate the day when anniversary year – a finale to an era of courageous two generations of Rosses returned to metaphorically exploration by early polar explorers such as JCR, and repossess the island. This was the first time a Ross had Sir , who was lost while commanding an visited since it had first been found – an occasion we expedition with JCR’s ships HMS Erebus and HMS marked holding the Ross flag with pride. Terror (which have both now been found – the latter This was the point of no return for me; the point a mere six weeks before the agreement was declared). when my journey turned into a rite of passage. The The agreement marks the beginning of a new era totality of my own experiences affirmed that my role in in my life as the news has travelled across the globe, this life is to connect humanity to nature. Like JCR, I use connecting me with long-lost relatives of Sir John Ross the power of the earth’s electromagnetic field to guide and Sir John Franklin. My hope now is to connect to me. JCR used it to find the . I use relatives of Bellingshausen, the man who first discovered it to find a person’s True North in my personal growth Antarctica. My ultimate hope is to expand the passion and development business www.philippaross.com. to protect Antarctica into a global movement that The purity of Antarctica is majestic and humbling. reconnects people to themselves, each other, and the The tranquillity is restorative; it allows the recalibrating environment – a project I believe will go a long way to of the spiritual, emotional, mental, and physical parts of honour and harness the diversity of all life so humanity’s oneself to create a feeling of wholeness. You get a real innate desire to live in peace and harmony is fulfilled sense of being part of something that’s so much bigger and able to create a legacy on which future generations than the world we live in. It’s a place that teaches you can thrive. that nature has total sovereignty, and how much we If we hold hope in our hearts, it’ll give us the courage need to understand and respect that power because it and stamina to ride the difficult storms of our own is the crucial element we need to sustain our survival. journey to pursue dreams that others deem impossible. Its value to humanity is invaluable. The visual and Dreams are the essence auditory landscape of Antarctica is now an intrinsic of what life is all about. part of who I am – something I can draw on to both Imagine if all those revitalise my energy and recapture a sense of peace. In involved in protecting the the same way a picture is worth a thousand words, the Ross Sea had given up. rich tapestry within nature’s soundscape is priceless, If you lose hope, its value subjective to the connection we feel and the somehow you lose the story we want to convey. In Antarctica you can literally vitality that keeps life smell the purity and feel yourself unwind. The stresses moving, you lose that and strains of the world have no place here; the only courage to be, that quality existence is in the moment – peace of mind, body, that helps you go on in and soul rule. You feel vulnerable but without fear – spite of it all. And so a diametric contrast to the way we live our ordinary today, I still have a dream. everyday lives. Martin Luther King, Jr Ross family crest.

All images on these pages courtesy of Philippa Ross.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 53 HISTORY

The Captain’s Pyjamas

By Andrew Leachman, Master Mariner and Ice Pilot to the Royal New Zealand Navy

t Archives New Zealand, in a file about Why the Nautical Advisor to the New Zealand the establishment of the Ross government became involved in the first Ross A Dependency, 1 is a series of letters dealing Sea whaling season is a rather convoluted story.4 with the non-return of Captain George S. Hooper’s , the legendary founder of Antarctic pyjamas. It seems incongruous that amongst letters of whaling, wished to exploit the whales in the Ross Sea. national historical significance between the Duke of James Clark Ross in 1841, and in Devonshire, British Secretary of State for the Colonies 1911, had both commented on the large whale stocks in , and Viscount Jellicoe, Governor-General in the vicinity of the Great Ice Barrier. In December of New Zealand, there is correspondence from a lowly 1922 Larsen was granted a licence by Britain to whale Marine Department stores clerk to Hooper, demanding in the Ross Sea. Britain was not in a position to grant an explanation over the non-return of a pair of a license of this kind without a basis in international government-issued pyjamas. law for her sovereignty, and it was not until 30 July So who was George Samuel Hooper, and why 1923 that British sovereignty was established by Order would the Marine Department have issued him a pair of Council.5 The Ross Dependency that resulted was of pyjamas? defined as “the coast of the Ross Sea, with islands and In 1902 at the age of 28, Hooper obtained the rare territories adjacent thereto”; i.e. all the areas south qualification of Extra Master, in Lyttelton, and in 1907 of 60º S between longitudes 160º E and 150º W. The he was appointed captain of the New Zealand training Governor-General of New Zealand was then vested with ship Amokura. He took over command of this vessel in the authority “to make all such Rules and Regulations Wellington from another renowned New Zealand sailor, as may lawfully be made by His Majesty’s authority one Frank Worsley of Endurance and James Caird fame. for the peace, order and good government of this said Hooper served as Master of TS Amokura for 12 years Dependency”. This order establishing the Dependency (1907 to 1919), during which time over 500 young men was published on 16 August 1923. were trained for careers in both the Merchant Navy and Meanwhile, the whale factory ship Sir James Clark the Royal New Zealand Navy. Ross, owned by Larsen’s company A/S Rosshavet, Earlier in his maritime career, Hooper had was being readied in Sandefjord in Norway. She departed worked aboard Union Steam Ship Company vessels, Norway in September and proceeded to Barry in South before being appointed to the role of Chief Mate of Wales, where she loaded 10,000 tons of coal. Three whale the government lighthouse tender Hinemoa in 1903. chasers were fitting out in Seattle, bound for the south. In Servicing lighthouses around the rugged coastline of October 1923 there was a frantic exchange of telegrams New Zealand at places such as Puysegur Point, Stephens between the Governor-General in Wellington and the Island, and The Brothers islands would have challenged Secretary of State for the Colonies in London. The New the most gifted of sailors. Zealand government was caught by surprise, with no Hooper was a licensed compass adjuster, and previous knowledge of the make-up of Larsen’s catching in 1917 he held the rank of Lieutenant Commander in flotilla. Consultations in Wellington between Prime the Royal Naval Reserve.2 On 20 December 1919 he Minister Massey, the Minister of Marine, G. J. Anderson, was appointed Nautical Advisor to the government, and the Crown Law Office, resulted in the Marine and Chief Examiner of Masters and Mates for the Department taking responsibility for administering all Marine Department. During 1920 he travelled to Britain, matters relating to the Ross Dependency. where he visited the British Board of Trade examination On 11 November A/S Rosshavet’s office in rooms in London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. He also paid Sandefjord informed the Minister of Marine that the visits to the Admiralty Compass depot at Slough and the Sir James Clark would save chronometer rating establishment at Greenwich.3 valuable time by calling at Hobart on 25 November, 1 le Part 1, M1-2/9/7. 2 Gazetted ADM. 240/53/239, dated 27/3/1917. 3 The Evening Post, 12 August 1920 (under “Shipping: Port of Wellington”). 4 W. Barr and J. Watt, “Pioneer Whalers in the Ross Sea, 1923–33”, Polar Record, 41. 5 Archives file: Ross Sea Whaling Part 1, M1-2/9/7.

54 Issue 238 HISTORY

and would fulfil licence obligations with a port stop in but he remained the Administrator for the Ross New Zealand on the homeward-bound voyage. The Dependency until 1926. That same year he was Marine Department responded by deciding to send an appointed Commodore of the Plimmerton Boat Club. official representative to join Larsen’s whaling expedition Hooper had occasion to visit the Kaipipi shipyard in Hobart. Hooper was chosen for this role and was given in Stewart Island during the following years, to ensure the position of Administrator for the Ross Dependency. that the A/S Rosshavet whale-chaser lay-up repair He was sworn in as a Justice of the Peace, taking his facilities were being maintained to Marine Department oath of office before Governor-General Jellicoe, and was satisfaction.9 issued with a full kit of Antarctic clothing – including the During 1930 he was elected president of the pyjamas – and a camera. Within days, Hooper departed Plimmerton Boat Club, and on 3 March 1931 it was for Hobart. On 29 November the Sir James Clark Ross reported in Wellington’s Evening Post that Captain G. was anchored in the stream off Hobart. Once Hooper S. Hooper had died the previous day aged just 57 years. had stepped aboard, “she unceremoniously, without To have died so young was tragic, but one marvels at his the waving of a flag or the sounding of a siren, stood career. It must have been rewarding spending five months down the river Derwent on her way out to the Ross at sea with Larsen. Being the very first New Zealander Dependency”.6 Hooper played a significant role in the to officially represent our country in Antarctica, gaining early establishment of the Ross Dependency: he was an Extra Master’s qualification, teaching over 500 young the first official representative of the New Zealand sailors who passed through the Amokura training ship, government to step ashore on the Antarctic continent.7 and rising to the position of Nautical Advisor to the Hooper returned to his desk in Wellington in April New Zealand government, are all outstanding maritime 1924. The 1923–24 whaling season had not been achievements. Plus, he lost a pair of government-issued a financial success, but many important lessons were pyjamas. Captain George Samuel Hooper was indeed learned.8 Hooper did not go to the Antarctic again, an Extra Master Mariner. 6 A. J. Villiers, Whaling in the Frozen South. Photo above: Captain Hooper, boys, and penguins on the Bounty Islands. 7 J. N. Tønnessen and A. O. Johnsen, The History of Modern Whaling. Ref: 1/2-056479-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. 8 W. Barr and J. Watt, “Pioneer Whalers in the Ross Sea, 1923–33”, http://natlib.govt.nz/records/23196041. Polar Record, 41. 9 J. P. C. Watt, Stewart Island’s Kaipipi Shipyard and the Ross Sea Whalers.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 55 HERITAGE

HMS Protector (A146) – RN ice patrol vessel

By Fred Davey

Figure 2. Graf-Askania Gss-2 sea gravimeter. Figure 1. ALT HMS Protector. Photo courtesy of F Davey. Photo courtesy of F Davey.

he article in the recent the ship’s “flight”. On 3 October iceberg. She was 346 feet long, and, edition of Antarctic 1955 she departed Portsmouth for although displacing only 3,450 tons, T (Vol. 34, 1) about the her first season in the Antarctic. she had a crew of 21 officers and 238 visit of the new ice Thirteen such seasons followed, senior and junior ratings because she patrol vessel, HMS Protector, through to May 1968, and she had to be crewed for full operations brought back to mind my first trip was scrapped in 1970. She was the on a 24-hour basis. This led to to Antarctica on the earlier HMS last of the Royal Navy ships to be cramped accommodation on board Protector (commanded by Captain powered by steam turbines through and a large number of the crew had S. R. Sandford RN) in 1965–6. triple expansion steam turbines only a locker for personal belongings This was quite a different ship with diesel-fired boilers. Although and slept on hammocks that were (Figure 1). At the time, she was the a relatively small ship, as she was on replaced at change of crew watches. second-oldest commissioned ship an independent commission she had Tot time was still in existence and in the Royal Navy, the oldest being a full captain in command. a ration was formally allocated to HMS Victory at Portsmouth Historic HMS Protector was, the crew every day at midday. Dockyard (launched 1765). I understand, affectionately known I joined her in Portsmouth as HMS Protector was originally as the “Grey Ghost” by “FIDS” a graduate student of the Department laid down as a fast net layer at (the Dependencies of at the University of Messrs Yarrow & Co Ltd of Survey), as she was painted grey and Birmingham, to operate a surface Glasgow, in August 1935, and was because her limited ice strengthening ship marine gravity meter – the first launched in August 1936. In 1954, meant she tended to be careful about time one had been used in Antarctic she underwent a transformation ice. However, she was armed, with waters – and survey parts of the from net layer to ice patrol ship in twin 4-inch guns on the foredeck Sea and offshore Antarctic the Devonport dockyard, where a which had to be fired at intervals to Peninsula. The geophysics group flight deck above her net deck and ensure they were working and to give (under Professor D. H. Griffiths) a hangar were built for two Westland the gun crews much-needed practice. carried out marine geophysical Whirlwind helicopters that formed The target south was usually a small research in close association with

56 Issue 238 HERITAGE

the . The Stanley via South America in The return trip was via Tristan da instrument I used was a Graf- December. We then ran three legs Cunha to South Africa (Simonstown), Askania Gss-2 sea gravimeter down the Antarctic Peninsula to followed by brief stops at the central #11, mounted on an Anshultz the south-west, through Bransfield Atlantic islands of Saint Helena, and gyrostabilised platform to keep the Strait, visiting Ascension, and further stops in West instrument level, both on loan from the year before it erupted (Figure Africa (Sierra Leone, Morocco). We Cambridge University (Figure 2). At 4) and reaching as far south as reached home in May 1966. We had sea, the meter appeared to be moving in Marguerite recorded over 28,000 line kilometres the opposite way to that expected, Bay (Figure 5), and also ran across of marine gravity data, including 8,300 making some people feel unwell. As to South Georgia and the South line kilometres of data from south the instrument was running 24 hours Orkney Islands in the south-east. of the Falkland Islands. The gravity a day and I had to have some sleep, We did not enter the . I data provided interesting insights into I had a group of ratings as a watch also recorded gravity data on land, the structure and evolution of the group. Instructions were simple: if and still vividly remember being region and Burdwood something unexpected happened, deposited on an isolated small rock Bank, and formed the basis of my wake me! My attempts to instruct in the middle of the Bransfield Strait PhD thesis at Birmingham. the group what to do were well by helo (a one-skid landing) to make HMS Protector was replaced captured by the on-board cartoonist a measurement and being left for an two years later in 1968 by HMS “Sam” (Figure 3). As a civilian hour or more with only sea, rocks, Endurance (commanded by scientist I was accommodated and ice in sight. Fortunately the helo Captain Peter Buchanan RN), a ship with the officers and lived in the returned. The ship also supported designed for working in ice-covered wardroom, which involved formal other scientific studies by the conditions. It was formerly MV dressing for dinner every evening. University of Birmingham, carrying Anita Dan of the Lauritzen Line. However, as a civilian, I was not out several days of shot firing Further information on HMS restricted by naval hierarchy and (with charges up to 300 pounds, Protector can be obtained from could visit other messes – such as the about 400 yards astern of the ship) the HMS Protector Association: PO stokers’ mess (which had the best for seismic surveys recorded by https://web.archive.org/ beer) – when invited. researchers on the British Antarctic web/20090606160817/http:// We departed Portsmouth in Survey ship RRS Shackleton in the khdutilities.co.uk/protector/pages/ October 1965, and arrived in Port Peninsula region. contact-us.php

Figure 3. Marine gravimeter Figure 4. HMS Protector at Deception Island. watch-keepers’ cartoon by “Sam”. Photo: F Davey. Photo: F Davey.

Figure 5. HMS Protector traversing Marguerite Bay. Photo: F Davey.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 57 POLAR SHIPS

Recent Polar Vessel Projects

By Anderson Chaplow, Lead Specialist – Naval, Lloyd’s Register

orld research fleets The following are summaries of that provides hull lubrication and are ageing, vessels some recent polar projects of note, reduced friction for ice-breaking W are reaching the end intended to show the increasing operations, and, with a combined of their “extended” lives, and modern investment and complexity of vessels shaft power of 34 megawatts, it will science requires safe, stable, capable being produced for operations at the be the world’s third-most-powerful platforms from which to undertake ends of the earth. non-nuclear . advanced polar research. Fortunately John G. Diefenbaker: This Baltika: Delivered in December there has been a recent spate of high- will be one of the largest and most 2014 to the Russian Marine tech vessels constructed and ordered powerful in the world Emergency Rescue Service (FGI to fill this need – powerful, strong, when it joins the Canadian Coast Gosmorspassluzhba) by Arctech quiet, environmentally friendly vessels Guard fleet around 2021. It is one Helsinki, this is the first icebreaker designed to meet the requirements of the first vessels to be designed to built with an asymmetric hull of the new IACS (International the Lloyd’s Register Icebreaker(+) form for “oblique” icebreaking. Association of Classification notation and also to the requirements This structure allows the vessel to Societies) Polar Rules for year- of the second-highest ice class in the generate a 50-metre-wide channel round operations in multi-year ice, IACS Polar Rules – Ice Class PC2, with a beam of only 20.5 metres, whilst complying with the tough the highest rating yet specified, for by moving sideways using three new IMO (International Maritime year-round operations in moderate azimuthing thrusters. Classed to the Organization) Polar Code for safety multi-year ice conditions up to RMRS (Russian Maritime Register and environmental compliance in 2.5 metres thick. The John G. of Shipping) Icebreaker 6 notation, the “hot” new focus area for world Diefenbaker will be fitted with an the vessel is capable of breaking shipping: the polar regions. underwater air-bubbling system ice up to 1 metre thick ahead and

Photo above: A rendered image of the Australian Antarctic Program Aurora Australis replacement. Photo: Damen/DMS Maritime/Knud E Hansen A/S.

58 Issue 238 POLAR SHIPS

60 centimetres thick abeam. The year-round operations in ice up to Jet-A helicopter fuel. Importantly, unique hull form is also suitable for 1 metre thick, this vessel will be the vessel has been “instrumented” oil clean-up operations (by using the one of the most advanced research and will provide a significant new flat side to ‘funnel’ oil into a recovery vessels in the world, featuring over capability for the full-scale direct boom); and the vessel is provided 900 square metres of scientific measurement of hull-ice loads in with emergency response equipment, cargo volume and a moon-pool the Antarctic region. enabling it to conduct towing, fire- (an opening in the hull, giving HMNZS Endeavour fighting, and salvage operations. access to the water below) for safe replacement: Contracted for Polaris: Delivered only on and stable deployment of scientific construction at Hyundai Heavy 28 September 2016 to the Finnish equipment – an essential feature for Industries in South Korea by the Transport Agency by Arctech many new research vessels. New Zealand Ministry of Defence, Helsinki, this vessel is the world’s Aurora Australis replacement: the replacement auxiliary oiler first icebreaker with duel-fuel This vessel is being built by Damen and replenishment vessel for the engines capable of burning both for the Australian Antarctic Royal New Zealand Navy will low-sulphur marine diesel oil program as a replacement for the include features enabling it to (LSMDO) and liquefied natural Aurora Australis, and represents deliver fuel and other goods gas (LNG) for environmentally the single biggest investment in to support Scott Base and McMurdo compliant operations in the Baltic the Australian Antarctic program. station, during summer months, Sea Emissions Control Area. Intended to act as both a research once an icebreaker has cleared Also one of the first vessels awarded and resupply vessel to the Australian a path. Chief of these will be the Icebreaker(+) notation by Antarctic bases, the vessel will be compliance with the IACS Ice Class Lloyd’s Register and designed to designed to the Lloyd’s Register PC6 requirements for summer/ the requirements of IACS Ice Class Icebreaker(+) notation and to the autumn operation in medium PC4, it is capable of moving forward requirements of IACS Ice Class first-year ice (which may include old continuously through ice up to PC3 for year-round operations ice inclusions), but also enhanced 1.6 metres thick. in second-year ice (which may measures to enable operation in Xuelong II: The first Chinese include multi-year ice inclusions) cold conditions (“winterisation”), icebreaker to be built domestically up to 1.65 metres thick. Designed the carriage of low flash-point polar for the Chinese and Antarctic to be environmentally advanced, diesel (AN-8), and cargo operations Administration, this vessel, although this vessel will also comply with the against an “ice-pier”. smaller, will surpass the current Det Norske Veritas Silent-R Legend (ex Giant I): Whilst not vessel Xuelong in research capability notation for acoustically sensitive a government vessel or a research and ice-breaking ability. Jointly vessels where low underwater noise vessel, Legend is worthy of note classed by both Lloyd’s Register emissions are required. as a recent polar project. Built and China Classification Society S. A. Agulhas II: Built for the in 1974 as an ice-rated ocean- (CCS), the vessel will be designed to South African Department of Water going salvage vessel, and perhaps IACS Ice Class PC3 requirements for and Environmental Affairs in 2012 an electronic eavesdropping ship, operations in ice up to 1.5 metres to replace the original S. A. Agulhas, for the Soviet Union, this vessel thick. It is currently scheduled for this vessel is specifically designed as has recently been refitted by ICON completion in 2018. a polar supply ship and research Yachts as a custom expedition RRS Sir David Attenborough: vessel. Complying with the Det vessel for the luxury yacht market. Contracted by the Natural Norske Veritas PC-5 notation for Retaining the original’s compliance Environment Research Council year-round operations in medium with Lloyd’s Register’s Ice Class (NERC) for the British Antarctic first-year ice (which may include 1A FS1 notation, the refitted Survey (BAS), the colloquially known old ice inclusions) up to 1 metre vessel is provided with a “Boaty McBoatface” is intended to thick, the vessel is also compliant commercially certified helipad, replace the RRS James Clark Ross with the IMO Safe Return to Port a twin-turbine helicopter, two and the RRS for requirements and is the first ship snowmobiles, and a three-man both Arctic and Antarctic research of its kind to be certified for both recreational submarine, as well as operations. Designed to IACS passengers and low flash-point a Balinese spa, a gym, a beauty salon, Ice Class PC4 requirements for fuel, such as polar diesel and and a movie theatre.

1 FS: Finnish–Swedish Ice Class Rules. Continued on next page »

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 59 POLAR SHIPS

A rendered image of the Royal New Zealand Navy HMNZS Endeavour replacement. Photo: Hyundai Heavy Industries Co. Ltd.

Aurora Borealis: Not yet a US Polar Class: Absent of the first US-made “heavy” reality, the Aurora Borealis is a from the list above is a US Polar icebreaker in more than 25 years. joint European Union project Class icebreaker; whilst there Interestingly, this was bundled with (ERICON-AB) intended to produce has been an on-again-off-again the Navy shipbuilding programme an icebreaking research vessel with commitment to the procurement and not the Coastguard programme, hitherto unknown capabilities, of replacement tonnage to the indicating, perhaps, that it was being enabling it to operate in the central now absent US ice-breaking fleet, treated as a strategic purchase. during even the most there is a recognised need, but no Intended to replace the Polar Star severe ice conditions. Following projects yet announced. In the early (and Polar Sea), it is still short of feasibility studies, the design now 2000s the Antarctic Research Vessel the estimated six vessels required favoured – the Aurora Slim – is a Oversight Committee (ARVOC) (three heavy, three medium) and does slightly scaled-back version, still was established to examine the not provide for a dedicated Polar intended to be capable of achieving issue and ensure representation research vessel. IACS Ice Class PC1 (which would of the scientific community in the The above provides a taster of make it the first ever of this rating) management and development of a few recent projects. It is an exciting but without the insulated drilling rig the US Antarctic Program’s research time for polar research: a series and second moon pool, and with vessels. Significantly, in May of of highly capable vessels, specifically a reduction in installed power this year the FY2017 Defense designed and built for research and from 94 megawatts to 52 megawatts. Appropriations Bill was approved, operations in ice-bound regions, are The current status of this project which included an allowance of in the process of being procured or is unknown. US$1.0 billion for the procurement have been recently commissioned.

60 Issue 238 BOOK REVIEW

(1954 to 1957) and now the Historical Adviser to the UK Thank you Antarctic Heritage Trust. Operation Tabarin is the story would like to take this of a little-known event during opportunity to thank those the Second World War; the secret Icontributors and reviewers establishment of British bases on who have contributed articles and the Antarctic Peninsula. Stephen assisted in the production of Antarctic Haddelsey has skillfully brought over the last two years. Some have together previously unpublished written, some have reviewed, and diaries, letters, and reports to some have responded to question produce a very readable book that after question from this Editor. In any covers an area of Antarctic history case, my thanks to Antarctic Heritage that is not well known. During my Trust, Antarctica New Zealand, polar seafaring days, I was fortunate Marcus Arnold, John Bradshaw, to visit or see most of the places or Margaret Bradshaw, Janet Bray, features mentioned in his book, David Burke, Anderson Chaplow, which made it of special interest Jane Chewings, Bill Conroy, Herbert to me. However, I was also keen to Dartnall, Fred Davey, David Dodd, Operation learn more on this little-publicised Brett Fotheringham, Frank Graveson, expedition during the Second Gusto Design, Neil Gilbert, David Tabarin: World War, and this the book does Harrowfield, Randal Heke, Alan extremely well. The author not D. Hemmings, Steve Hicks, Grant Britain’s secret only describes what the people of Hunter, Joe Johnson, Paul Kelly, Operation Tabarin did, but how Linda Kestle, Malcolm Laird, wartime they did it, how they lived, and who Andrew Leachman, David Lucas, they were. Ken McAnergney, Roger McGarry, Although the original intention Lizzie Meek, Colin and Betty expedition was the political desire to deny the Monteath, Peter Otway, Robert German navy safe havens in the (Bob) Park, John Parsloe, Ursula to Antarctica Southern Ocean, the expedition also Rack, Michelle Rogan-Finnemore, sought to reassert British territorial Philippa Ross, Sylvia Strang-Parsloe, 1944–46 claims to the Antarctic Peninsula. David Skinner, St Hilda’s Collegiate A British scientific programme School Dunedin, Bill Strickland, Sue by Stephen Haddelsey quickly developed, leading to the Stubenvoll, Oliver Sutherland, Don with Alan Carroll formation of the Falkland Islands Taylor, Myra Walton, Don Webster, Dependencies and, later, the British and Mariska Wouters. Book reviewed by John Parsloe Antarctic Survey. HRH Princess Anne in her foreword makes this My greatest thanks would be r Stephen Haddelsey’s achievement very clear. extended to a Photo Editor. book Operation In the book’s 256 pages there If you have an interest here, or D Tabarin first appeared are a number of black and white would be able to help sourcing in 2014 in hardback format. photographs, original maps, images, and obtaining copyright It has now been reissued as a comprehensive chapter notes, an permissions, please contact me. softcover edition. The author has index, and a bibliography. Read it! specialised in books with polar Published by The History themes. For assistance with this Press, The Mill, Brimscombe Port, We have just received news book, he was able to call upon Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL5 2QG, that Graham White, Life the expertise of Alan Carroll, a UK. Recommended retail price Member, and former president, former base leader at GBP16.99. ISBN 978-0-7509-6746-4. has died. Our thoughts are with his family.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 61 CONFERENCE

New Zealand Antarctic Society, in association with the National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy, invites you to a conference to mark 100 years since… The End of the Heroic Era

If you have an interest in Antarctic History, then this event is for you!

To be held in cooperation with the National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy, speakers will delve into the Heroic Era of Antarctic Exploration with presentations that look at the people involved, their motivations, achievements and the appreciation of this period, over time.

Date: Friday 24th to Sunday 26th March 2017. Venue: National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy, Torpedo Bay, Devonport, Auckland Program: Friday Evening, Cocktail Party Saturday: 9:00am to 4:00pm Conference Sessions followed by “Dog Watch” drinks. Sunday: 10:00am Commemorative Service, Navy Chapel, followed by a tour of the Devonport Navy Base. Afternoon, Conference Sessions and final Social Gathering

Photo above:

62 Issue 238 CONFERENCE

On 9 February 1917 the SS Aurora arrived Registration Details: in Wellington, New Zealand with the surviving members of the of the Imperial Trans First Name: Antarctic Expedition. This ended the period known as “The Heroic Era of Antarctic Exploration”. Please Surname: join with the NZ Antarctic Society in marking 100 Member NZAS?: Yes No years since the conclusion of these incredible human achievements, scientific endeavours and geographic If no also applying for membership?: Yes No discovery, with all its associated tragedy and success. Email: The Heroic Era of Phone: Antarctic Exploration Address: Conference Programme, Costs and Registration Additional People for Cocktail Party: National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy, Torpedo Bay, Devonport, Auckland Friday 24th March 2017 Address for general communications: 6:00pm: Cocktail Party. Get NZ Antarctic Society – Auckland Branch into the spirit of the conference with canapes and Secretary Roger McGarry refreshments amongst the exhibits of this beautifully Phone: 0274 373 404 presented museum. Email: [email protected] Saturday 25th 9:00am – 4:00pm: The conference Payments and Registration: officially opens with a welcome at the Museum with Please make to NZAS Auckland Branch. a variety of speakers and seminar sessions throughout Email: [email protected] the day. 4:00pm – 6:00pm: Social gathering, Navy Direct Credit to Account No: 01-0183-0124400-00 Wardroom. (PARTICULARS: First name, CODE: Last name, Sunday 26th 10:00am: Commemorative Service, REFERENCE: Heroic); or cheque to: Navy Chapel, Devonport Naval Base, followed by a NZAS Treasurer tour of the Naval Base, lunch and afternoon conference 3 Budock Road session. 4:00pm – 5:30pm: final social gathering, Navy Hillsborough Auckland 1042 Museum. Cost: $150 per person. NZ Antarctic Society Call for Presentation/Speakers: Members receive a 20% discount ($120). The cost We welcome people who have original papers and includes: Cocktail Party, conference fees, morning and revised or updated work that focus on the Heroic afternoon teas and lunches on both days. Era or the influence and/or understanding it has had over subsequent years. If you would like to If you join the NZ Antarctic Society at the time participate as a speaker please provide an outline of registration, you are entitled to the discounted of your proposed topic to: [email protected] Member’s price for conference registration. If you Accommodation support may be available for choose this option, please complete and forward speakers from outside the Auckland Area. the Society’s membership registration form and all Publication: It is intended to publish presentations applicable fees at the same time. in Antarctic magazine. (Registration form attached or available to download from www.antarctic.org.nz) Should you wish to invite additional people to just the Cocktail function on Friday evening please provide their names and an additional $30 per person.

Vol 34, No. 4, 2016 63 CORRESPONDENCE Brissenden’s Grave

By Oliver Sutherland

he mysterious death of the English seaman Stoker Petty Officer Robert T Brissenden RN, of the British Antarctic Expedition, 1910–1913, might well have been forgotten in the decades since his death in 1912, but for his grave at Elmslie Bay, French Pass.1 Brissenden was one of the crew of Robert Scott’s vessel who had spent several months in 1912 at French Pass undertaking a survey of the area. While we do not know who erected his handsome headstone, we do know that the grave has been tended over the years by both the Royal Navy and the Royal New Zealand Navy. Most recently, on Wednesday 24 Left to right: Commander Martin Doolan; Petty Officer Chef Alexzandra August 2016, a party of six crew members from the Kinney; Lieutenant Naim Oguz; Chief Petty Officer Marine Technician Mark Lyes; Midshipman Dillon Hyland; Able Rate Seaman Combat Specialist naval vessel HMNZS Endeavour, led by the ship’s Luther Paniora-Prescott. Photo courtesy of Oliver Sutherland. captain, Commander Martin Doolan, visited Elmslie Bay and spent half a day refurbishing the grave. An earlier hosted the crew of the Terra Nova during their sojourn party from the HMNZS Resolution had visited in 2005. at French Pass in 1912, the continuing attention paid For those of us of the Webber family, who have to Brissenden’s grave (which lies on our family land) by lived and farmed in the bay for over 150 years and who the Royal New Zealand Navy is greatly appreciated.

1 See Bill Conroy, “A Terra Nova Mystery”, Antarctic, 34, 1 (2016), cover and pp. 2–3.

Replies care of The Editor, Queries / Letters [email protected]

I have serious questions that I am hoping you may shed some light on. Shirase Antarctic 1) Since this area was discovered more Expedition Postcards than 65 years ago, why hasn’t some am an independent researcher in kind of permanent base been set Ithe field of Geomorphology, living up there, as this is easily the most am a member of PPHS of Great in California, USA. hospitable area of the continent IBritain, UFPP SATA French polar My understanding is that the “Bunger and has a freshwater supply? philately society and Arge German Hills” area was first discovered during 2) Why hasn’t this bizarre situation polar philately. “” circa 1946–47, by been taken in hand by the scientific I am looking for Antarctic postcards US Admiral Bunger under the command community in order to discover from Shirase Antarctic expedition of US Admiral Byrd, and includes an WHY this area is ice free? 1910–1912. Could you please let me area of 300 square miles of hills and 3) Do you have any logical and know if some of your members have lakes that remain largely snow and ice reasonable explanation for the these postcards for sale or do you know free during the year. I understand that HIGHLY unusual conditions found someone in New Zealand who can have the water was found to be fresh and in “Bunger Hills”? this for sale. 38oF. It is also my understanding that Very Sincerely, Thanks a lot for your reply and your the climate in this area does not differ RG (USA) kindness. significantly from the rest of Antarctica. Regards, CM (France)

64 Issue 238 You are invited to join; please complete the membership application form:

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e have a name growing in Lyttelton. Men discovered a strange, cold continent. They turned It is the name of a dog and it was given Terra Incognita into Terra Nobilis: Antarctica. W by a child. Men brought the Ice Dogs to help them and they At first I fretted and feared the name. The “Hec” learned from the dogs. Without their dogs they would sounded like a baby crying or an old man coughing. I fail. Without an understanding of their dogs they died. was afraid for the name and the dog. And the “” is The Ice Dogs came from Siberia, Alaska, and the sound of a door closing, a sound of weak command. Canada, the icy regions of the north. Many came But the more I listened and studied and thought, the through Lyttelton and served scientists and explorers more I saw that this name, “Hector”, is inspired. It is for nearly 100 years. The Antarctic Treaty, which binds as inspired as the child that gave it. Antarcticans in international peace and collaboration, Hector is named after Hector’s dolphins, the puppies has evolved. It now values lives equally and does not of the sea. They laugh and play and call their high- allow for the killing of seals to feed dogs. pitched cries that few men can hear. But dogs can hear So the dogs were removed – not all shot as them: they hear them coming, surfing through the waves governments wanted, but valued and loved for their in any weather to greet a stranger or welcome home a spirit and contribution. The last dogs from Scott Base returning son. They call to those who set out on great were saved by a man called Bob McKerrow, who repaid adventures, the sea dogs leaving port. mankind’s debt to the Ice Dogs by bringing them back Dolphins are pack animals, soft and caring with their to Lyttelton on a US supply ship, carrying them to the young, playful, and supportive of their sick or dying. But airport so their feet, contaminated by years of work in when they are threatened they work together to charge, pristine ice fields, would not touch the sacred soil of bombard, and pummel the intruder until it slinks away the city. And, on his bond, they flew to a new home in or succumbs. Yes, a pod of dolphins can kill an orca Minnesota. Bob mortgaged his possessions to do this. many times their size. So the Lyttelton Sled Dog, Hector, represents the But “Hector” is also a name of great mana. Hector courage, tenacity, teamwork, and friendship that we was a hero of the Trojan Wars of long ago and far all need to succeed, working together across race, age, away. He inspired his men by his courage in battle. He gender, and era for the benefit of mankind. Our dog supported the women and made them feel safe. In that tells a story of a continent free from war, where nations time and place women were not the warriors they are help each other and rely on each other in a circle of today. They made homes and cared for their families as friendship. dolphins and dogs do, and fought only when threatened The Great White Continent is teaching us secrets of or scorned. how the world was made, where it came from, how it So this name, “Hector”, is a fine gift. It is obvious yet might end and how we might live in peace. Without war subtle. It was given by a child and denotes a hero. And we have time to look, to listen, and to learn. the dog is an Ice Dog, one of many hundreds that gave And “Hector” is a fitting name for a Sled Dog their strength, courage, and intelligence to serve mankind. of Lyttelton. Sue Stubenvoll

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