Tip Toe Thru the Tulips

TIP TOE THRU THE TULIPS Overview This route was established with a ground up approach. A couple of bolts have been added since the initial ascent. The grading is still preliminary and may vary slightly with further ascents. Pitch 2, and 3 may be graded a bit soft. All pitch lengths are rough estimates. The large white corner system to the climber’s right has some choss hanging off it that could naturally dislodge and bounce on the route, especially within the first 3 pitches. Around 12 years ago a large block fell from far up the corner. I have been climbing on Copper every season since and have yet to witness any new rock fall or new scars. That being said, natural rock fall should still be considered. Much of the newer looking scars are from our trundling/cleaning efforts. Approach: Hike the Iron Road Trail up fixed lines and ladder rungs to the start of the first steel cable traverse. From here, traverse left through exposed 4th class terrain to base of route. The first bolt on the first pitch has a black carabiner on it (please leave it, and all those at belays, in place). Pitch 1: 5.7. Bolted, staring with large in cut edges that get smaller near the top. Still a bit mossy, but getting better with every ascent. All holds have been scrubbed, however remnants of scrubbing may be collected on ledges. 25m. Another long pitch below this one is in the works. Pitch 2: 5.10-. Bolted, easy off the belay with increasing difficulties above. Much cleaner than Pitch 1. 30m. Pitch 3: 5.10. Bolted, engaging slab and feature climbing that generally eases in difficulty as you go. Spotless (well… at least by Northwest standards)! 45m. Pitch 4: 5.10+. Mixed (mostly bolted); BD Camelot’s .5 to #2 and a single set of nuts. The crux sections of this pitch are bolted and clean. The pitch ends with a right facing corner crack which has been scrubbed, then some easy face climbing and an easy leftwards traverse over mossy terrain to a large belay stance on a small arete. 45m. Pitch 5: 5.7. Bolted. Traverse up and left along prominent ledge system to a belay below the large cave. Mossy but necessary holds are clean. 10m. Pitch 6: 5.10+. Mixed, steep burly crack climbing with a face traverse on chicken heads. BD Camalots .3 to #4 (4.5 is good too). Doubles on #.75, #1, #4 (or 4.5). This pitch starts with a moss crawl to the first bolt and then into the steep white face crack systems. Off the belay, there are some annoying bushes that need to get pruned, as well as some loose scree (be mindful of climbers below). Once on the face the climbing gets steep and engaging. Climb the steep off width up and right of the cave a short ways. Then follow bolts straight up the face and left to another right-angling crack. Follow this crack, then traverse a horizontal handrail out right, leading to a short slab. Avoid the main corner above and follow the smaller steep right-facing corner, just to the right, with a bulge to start. Upon exiting the corner, look left to see the belay anchors. Be sure to clip your rope thru the directional bolt to the lower right of the belay (make sure to clip this on the descent as well). This will stop the rope from getting wedged in an evil rope eater-crack situated near the corner’s exit. 40m. Descent: If descending the route, two ropes are required. A directional bolt is situated just below the top belay. Be sure to clip the knotted rope (knot below the carabiner) to prevent your rope from getting sucked into more rope eater cracks lining the lip, just below the belay. Follow the same anchors as the ascent. Two 60m ropes required. An option if a team only has a single rope (60m minimum), is to hike to the top of the Ogre and rappel this route. However, a team will have to rappel off a single bolt at the last rappel to the Ogres base. Descent the Iron Road. Another option is to avoid rappelling entirely and descend the Upper Copper trail to the south (climber’s right) of the Ogre. .

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