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The Bloody Punchbowl Historical Battlesite Near DMZ Hosts More Than Bloody History by Jon Stafford Site ‘The Punchbowl’

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The Bloody Punchbowl Historical Battlesite Near DMZ Hosts More Than Bloody History by Jon Stafford Site ‘The Punchbowl’ VOL. I ISSUE VIII THE ulsanwww.ulsanpear.biz PearNOVEMBER 2004 THE BLOODY PUNCHBOWL HISTORICAL BATTLESITE NEAR DMZ HOSTS MORE THAN BLOODY HISTORY by Jon Stafford site ‘the Punchbowl’. The The mountains in the Yang- trails jam packed with long Contributor Punchbowl is located adja- gu area are steep and pre- lines of hikers, which are all cent to the Demilitarized cipitous with many peaks common in most outdoor A very out of the way desti- Zone in Gangwon-do Prov- reaching over 1,000 meters. areas of Korea. You can nation worth checking out, ince just to the north of the They are not stunning rock pretty much pick a spot and even if you are not a big city of Yanggu. This area monoliths like Pukhansan enjoy it to yourself for the history buff, is the the in- features a number of places or Seoraksan, but more like whole day. famous Korean War battle worth checking out. mountains you would see in the American Appala- The main attraction of the chians. In addition to the area is, of course, the Punch- mountains the area boasts bowl itself. The Punchbowl Photo: courtesy of US Army Center of Military History the beautiful Soyang Lake is the site of the infamous where you can hop on a Bloody and Heartbreak during the fighting. Secur- you can really understand ferry and tour the area by Ridge battles. On these ing these two mountains how this place earned its boat. Make sure you bring slopes during the Korean allowed the UN forces to name. The valley is exactly your fishing pole because War 183 ROK Marines consolidate their hold on the shape of a round bowl. the fishing here is great. and 245 American Marines the Punchbowl basin and to This shape is due to the val- However, the best part lost their lives to take these gain strategic ground over ley actually being the cal- about exploring this area is mountains from the defend- looking the present North dera of a long extinct and the fact that very few peo- ing North Korean soldiers. Korean territory to defend badly eroded volcano. It is ple venture up here to be- The combined ROK and against any future North like a really old Paekdusan, gin with. No traffic jams, American Marines inflicted Korean offensives. the famous North Korean no cars parked all over the 2,799 KIAs on the enemy volcano. Photo: courtesy of US Army Center of Military History side of the road, and no and captured 557 POWs Once inside the Punchbowl see 4th tunnel page 10 EVERYBODY WAS KUNGFU FIGHTING... ANNUAL WORLD MARTIAL ARTS FeSTIVAL IN KOREA by Joel Burslem Nowadays, Chungju City, Conceived in order to fur- Over the course of several The Ulsan Pear which is located in the geo- ther the promotion of Taek- days this past October, 56 graphic center of the Korean gyeon as a traditional mar- teams from 35 nations de- Peninsula and is linked to tial art, the festival was first scended on Chungju to Since the time of the Three Seoul by the d e m o n s t r a t e Kingdoms, Chungju has Han River, their native mar- been the cradle of Korean is once again tial arts. Teams martial arts. It was here, in b e c o m i n g were allotted a North Chungcheong prov- a mecca for 20-minute pe- ince, during the 4th Cen- martial art- riod in which tury that the development ists from to display the of Taekgyeon, an early fore- around the characteristics bearer of modern Taekwon- globe. and idiosyncra- do, flourished. sies of each dis- Nestled in cipline. Much later on, during the the foothills Joseon Dynasty, people of the Seobak There were Photo: Joel Burslem gathered from across Ko- m o u n t a i n technical dis- rea near Chungju on the range and surrounded by held in 1998 and has sub- plays of punching and kick- Buddhist All Souls’ Day to beautiful lakes and hot sequently emerged as a pre- ing, weapon demonstrations compete in large Taekgyeon springs, Chungju is a natu- mier showcase of domestic as well as more crowd-pleas- competitions. These events ral tourist destination, and Korean and international ing acts like breaking blocks were recorded for poster- every October the city plays martial arts. of ice and smashing bricks. ity on a number of period host to the World Martial You talkin’ to me? Photo: Joel Burslem paintings. Arts Festival. see shaolin page 8 HELP THE PEAR! when you’re finished reading this rag, pass it on to your friends, fam- ily, co-workers and students! FREE an urban survival guide to the industrial capital of korea FREE 2 THE ulsan Pear Whatever your reason for living in Ulsan, I suspect that one of the best (and occa- EXTReme ALPINISM sionally frustrating) things about it is the fact you’re living in a very different country Full Alpine Conditions on Korea’s famous peak Seoraksan and culture from wherever you call home. Korea may not be tops on most people’s by Fin Madden vacation destination lists, but there are still plenty of interesting places to visit. The Ulsan Pear Despite what the travel guides say, there’s more to see in Korea than Seoul. This The clouds were low in the country is awash in history, temples and natural beauty. Needless to say, whatever sky and the sun even lower. your passion, you’ll find something to do here. You may just have to look harder and It was well before dawn on be more persistent than elsewhere. a cold winter’s morning when they first awoke. The Join us then as the Ulsan Pear highlights some off-the-beaten-track travel destina- Yagwon floor was warm, tions across the Korean peninsula. Hopefully, these articles will inspire you to visit but the air was frigid. The some of the places or even maybe find some of your own. three intrepid adventurers loaded their packs with ice Cheers, axes, rope, harnesses, cram- pons, sleeping bags and any number of other heavy pieces of valuable, possibly life saving, climbing equip- ment. The three intrepid Joel Burslem adventurers loaded Editor-in-chief their packs with ice [email protected] axes, rope, harness- es, crampons, sleep- that it aids alpinism. Ajum- ing bags . mas are more dangerous than grizzlies, and a degree in Outdoor Recreation does They were heading to the not mean that you actually Photo: Joel Burslem third tallest mountain in 3,486. 3,487. .3,48. know anything about the South Korea, Seoraksan. outdoors. Only a few kilometers south They battled on and on, as she seeks the peak in the of the DMZ, it was known occasionally forced to use most direct manner. as a rugged and inhospita- their crampons on sketchy Simply because ble place, where the winter sections of boardwalk and Fearing the broken teeth there is a picture winds were bitter and the stairs. The mountain trail of this granite peak, and of a mountain on a mountain trails dangerous eventually entered into the lapped by some sixty year- can of Hite does not and ice clogged. worst section, as crowded as old woman wearing plaid, mean that it aids al- Haeundae beach and just as our heroes, strained, sore pinism . Only a few minutes later sandy, then headed straight and broken, beat a hasty they left what is known in expedition circles as the Seoraksan National Park is ‘Base Car’ and headed to Lapped by some sixty year-old famous for Koreans and for- eigners alike as the Alpine ™ the trail, prepared to face THE woman wearing plaid, our he- heart of the nation. The ULSAN PEAR ‘Full Alpine Conditions’. ESTABLISHED 2004 The clock struck six am as granite peaks stand well roes, strained, sore and broken, above the northern town of they passed the entrance EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: gate. It was winter, and beat a hasty retreat . Sokcho, located on the East Joel Burslem they were excited. And sur- sea, 5 or 6 hours (traffic de- pending) north of Ulsan. EDITORIAL BOARD/STAFF WRITERS: prised, for already they were up a washed out gorge for a retreat. There were les- If you meet Kim Jung Il, Dave Harvey seeing ajummas and their thousand feet. The ‘switch- sons learned. For instance, you’ve gone too far. Eileen Keast husbands walking casually, back’ of foreign hiking trails simply because there is a Fin Madden with light day packs, head- is seen as a mere inconven- picture of a mountain on a [email protected] ing BACK DOWN the ience to the mighty ajumma can of Hite does not mean CONTRIBUTORS: mountain. Anne Bell Dan Barham John Buckley This trend continued, as Chris Dunn they struggled for every Jon Stafford foothold on the wide and Mike Weber well traveled path. The Matt Wurdeman stream of ajummi became a deluge, now coming both COPY EDITOR Eileen Keast ways, passing them going up and down the steep and PHOTOGRAPHERS: staircased mountainside. Dave Harvey GoreTEX, crampons: this Bennett Ho equipment means little to the intrepid visor-clad LAYOUT/DESIGN: ajumma. With her pow- Dave Harvey FOR ADVERTISING SALES, PLEASE CALL: erful, kimchi-fed legs she Fin Madden: 019.811.5373 blasts by the strongest and most experienced wilder- web: www.ulsanpear.biz ness adventurer with a po- email: [email protected] lite ‘Bongupsamneeda’ (nice to meet you). I spy with my little eye. Photo: Joel Burslem THE ulsan Pear 3 MASAN, THE OBVIOUS CHOICE by Mike Weber Chang-dong area.
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