Vol. I Issue VIII THE ulsanwww.ulsanpear.biz PearNovember 2004 the bloody historical battlesite near DMZ hosts more than bloody history by Jon Stafford site ‘the Punchbowl’. The The mountains in the Yang- trails jam packed with long Contributor Punchbowl is located adja- gu area are steep and pre- lines of hikers, which are all cent to the Demilitarized cipitous with many peaks common in most outdoor A very out of the way desti- Zone in Gangwon-do Prov- reaching over 1,000 meters. areas of . You can nation worth checking out, ince just to the north of the They are not stunning rock pretty much pick a spot and even if you are not a big city of Yanggu. This area monoliths like Pukhansan enjoy it to yourself for the history buff, is the the in- features a number of places or Seoraksan, but more like whole day. famous battle worth checking out. mountains you would see in the American Appala- The main attraction of the chians. In addition to the area is, of course, the Punch-

mountains the area boasts bowl itself. The Punchbowl Photo: courtesy of US Army Center of Military History the beautiful Soyang Lake is the site of the infamous where you can hop on a Bloody and Heartbreak during the fighting. Secur- you can really understand ferry and tour the area by Ridge battles. On these ing these two mountains how this place earned its boat. Make sure you bring slopes during the Korean allowed the UN forces to name. The valley is exactly your fishing pole because War 183 ROK Marines consolidate their hold on the shape of a round bowl. the fishing here is great. and 245 American Marines the Punchbowl basin and to This shape is due to the val- However, the best part lost their lives to take these gain strategic ground over ley actually being the cal- about exploring this area is mountains from the defend- looking the present North dera of a long extinct and the fact that very few peo- ing North Korean soldiers. Korean territory to defend badly eroded volcano. It is ple venture up here to be- The combined ROK and against any future North like a really old Paekdusan, gin with. No traffic jams, American Marines inflicted Korean offensives. the famous North Korean no cars parked all over the 2,799 KIAs on the enemy volcano. Photo: courtesy of US Army Center of Military History side of the road, and no and captured 557 POWs Once inside the Punchbowl see 4th tunnel page 10 Everybody was Kungfu Fighting... annual world Martial Arts Festival in korea by Joel Burslem Nowadays, Chungju City, Conceived in order to fur- Over the course of several The Pear which is located in the geo- ther the promotion of Taek- days this past October, 56 graphic center of the Korean gyeon as a traditional mar- teams from 35 nations de- Peninsula and is linked to tial art, the festival was first scended on Chungju to Since the time of the Three by the d e m o n s t r a t e Kingdoms, Chungju has Han River, their native mar- been the cradle of Korean is once again tial arts. Teams martial arts. It was here, in b e c o m i n g were allotted a North Chungcheong prov- a mecca for 20-minute pe- ince, during the 4th Cen- martial art- riod in which tury that the development ists from to display the of Taekgyeon, an early fore- around the characteristics bearer of modern Taekwon- globe. and idiosyncra- do, flourished. sies of each dis- Nestled in cipline. Much later on, during the the foothills Joseon Dynasty, people of the Seobak There were Photo: Joel Burslem gathered from across Ko- m o u n t a i n technical dis- rea near Chungju on the range and surrounded by held in 1998 and has sub- plays of punching and kick- Buddhist All Souls’ Day to beautiful lakes and hot sequently emerged as a pre- ing, weapon demonstrations compete in large Taekgyeon springs, Chungju is a natu- mier showcase of domestic as well as more crowd-pleas- competitions. These events ral tourist destination, and Korean and international ing acts like breaking blocks were recorded for poster- every October the city plays martial arts. of ice and smashing bricks. ity on a number of period host to the World Martial You talkin’ to me? Photo: Joel Burslem paintings. Arts Festival. see shaolin page 8 HELP THE PEAR! when you’re finished reading this rag, pass it on to your friends, fam- ily, co-workers and students!

FREE an urban survival guide to the industrial capital of korea FREE 2 THE ulsan Pear

Whatever your reason for living in Ulsan, I suspect that one of the best (and occa- Extreme Alpinism sionally frustrating) things about it is the fact you’re living in a very different country Full Alpine Conditions on Korea’s famous peak Seoraksan and culture from wherever you call home. Korea may not be tops on most people’s by Fin Madden vacation destination lists, but there are still plenty of interesting places to visit. The Ulsan Pear Despite what the travel guides say, there’s more to see in Korea than Seoul. This The clouds were low in the country is awash in history, temples and natural beauty. Needless to say, whatever sky and the sun even lower. your passion, you’ll find something to do here. You may just have to look harder and It was well before dawn on be more persistent than elsewhere. a cold winter’s morning when they first awoke. The Join us then as the Ulsan Pear highlights some off-the-beaten-track travel destina- Yagwon floor was warm, tions across the Korean peninsula. Hopefully, these articles will inspire you to visit but the air was frigid. The some of the places or even maybe find some of your own. three intrepid adventurers loaded their packs with ice Cheers, axes, rope, harnesses, cram- pons, sleeping bags and any number of other heavy pieces of valuable, possibly life saving, climbing equip- ment.

The three intrepid Joel Burslem adventurers loaded Editor-in-chief their packs with ice [email protected] axes, rope, harness- es, crampons, sleep- that it aids alpinism. Ajum- ing bags . . . mas are more dangerous than grizzlies, and a degree in Outdoor Recreation does They were heading to the not mean that you actually Photo: Joel Burslem third tallest mountain in 3,486. . . 3,487. . .3,48. . . know anything about the , Seoraksan. outdoors. Only a few kilometers south They battled on and on, as she seeks the peak in the of the DMZ, it was known occasionally forced to use most direct manner. as a rugged and inhospita- their crampons on sketchy Simply because ble place, where the winter sections of boardwalk and Fearing the broken teeth there is a picture winds were bitter and the stairs. The mountain trail of this granite peak, and of a mountain on a mountain trails dangerous eventually entered into the lapped by some sixty year- can of Hite does not and ice clogged. worst section, as crowded as old woman wearing plaid, mean that it aids al- Haeundae beach and just as our heroes, strained, sore pinism . . . Only a few minutes later sandy, then headed straight and broken, beat a hasty they left what is known in expedition circles as the is ‘Base Car’ and headed to Lapped by some sixty year-old famous for Koreans and for- ™ the trail, prepared to face eigners alike as the Alpine the woman wearing plaid, our he- heart of the nation. The Ulsan Pear ‘Full Alpine Conditions’. Established 2004 The clock struck six am as granite peaks stand well roes, strained, sore and broken, above the northern town of they passed the entrance Editor-in-Chief: gate. It was winter, and beat a hasty retreat . . . , located on the East Joel Burslem they were excited. And sur- sea, 5 or 6 hours (traffic de- pending) north of Ulsan. Editorial Board/Staff Writers: prised, for already they were up a washed out gorge for a retreat. There were les- If you meet Kim Jung Il, Dave Harvey seeing ajummas and their thousand feet. The ‘switch- sons learned. For instance, you’ve gone too far. Eileen Keast husbands walking casually, back’ of foreign hiking trails simply because there is a Fin Madden with light day packs, head- is seen as a mere inconven- picture of a mountain on a [email protected] ing BACK DOWN the ience to the mighty ajumma can of Hite does not mean Contributors: mountain. Anne Bell Dan Barham John Buckley This trend continued, as Chris Dunn they struggled for every Jon Stafford foothold on the wide and Mike Weber well traveled path. The Matt Wurdeman stream of ajummi became a deluge, now coming both Copy Editor Eileen Keast ways, passing them going up and down the steep and Photographers: staircased mountainside. Dave Harvey GoreTEX, crampons: this Bennett Ho equipment means little to the intrepid visor-clad Layout/Design: ajumma. With her pow- Dave Harvey For Advertising Sales, Please Call: erful, kimchi-fed legs she Fin Madden: 019.811.5373 blasts by the strongest and most experienced wilder- web: www.ulsanpear.biz ness adventurer with a po- email: [email protected] lite ‘Bongupsamneeda’ (nice to meet you). I spy with my little eye. . . Photo: Joel Burslem THE ulsan Pear 3 masan, the obvious choice by Mike Weber Chang-dong area. Chang- the smaller bus station of EVENT CALENADAR The Ulsan Pear dong hosts not only count- Masan is located. This is where you can find what’s happening, who’s meeting and who to talk to about anything in less clothing stores and Ulsan. “Where’s Masan?” is the boutiques but a few good Hapseong-dong is Masan’s sports standard reply people give restaurants, too, including “other” downtown. The Hash House Harriers- Every second Sunday (Nov 6, 20, Dec 4) this drinking group with a run- when the city is brought up. an excellent Mexican res- main bus terminal is here, as ning problem meets at the foreigners’ compound in Bangeojin. This is only is the train More info: [email protected] surprising be- s t a t i o n , cause it’s so Joyce’s boasts live music on m a k i n g Rugby- The Ulsan Uglies meet most Sundays to play touch rugby. Matches happen on the shores close to Ulsan Hapseong- of the Taehwa river. weekends and the best buffalo More info: [email protected] . . . less than dong a like- www.ulsanrugby.bravehost.com two hours by wings on the peninsula. ly first stop bus. Masan for travel- Soccer- The Won Shot Wanderers are back and playing various teams around the city. We are is situated on ers. Under now in a Busan league.More info: [email protected] the southern coast, a few taurant. Good bars include the main road is a huge un- www.wonshotwanderers.bravehost.com dozen kilometers west of Rodeo and California, but derground shopping mall, Busan. While it’s only half the pick of the lot is Joyce’s. with a surprising variety of There are also pick-up soccer games in Mugeodong on Tuesday mornings at 10. [email protected] the size of Ulsan in terms of Owned and operated by price ranges. Also in this More info: population, it holds its own area are two modern movie an expat, Joyce’s boasts live Street Hockey- Hockey in Korea? A number of people play in the Taehwa-dong area, sticks are as a metropolitan area. The music on weekends and the theaters, and the standard available. best thing about Masan is its best buffalo wings on the array of fast and food and More info: [email protected] location. It’s situated close peninsula. coffee establishments. to National Park as Ultimate Frisbee- New players always welcome, Ultimate Frisbee is played on the riverside by the well as Tongyeong and the Around Kyungnam Univer- Culturally, Masan is blessed Taehwa hotel every Sunday NOW AT 3pm. More info: [email protected] South Sea Islands. Whether sity is an area called Dakoli. with a fine collection of mu- you like the beach or the seums. Of particular note is Much like Mugeo-dong, arts mountains, both are readily the Masan sculpture muse- this part of town caters to Book Club- Meeting once a month at McKenzie’s to discuss, critique and rave about a pre-selected accessibly from Masan. the university crowd. A vast um, which houses an excel- book. This month’s book is “Blindness” by Jose Saramago. array of cheap eateries, bars, lent collection of physically More info: [email protected] It’s situated close to coffee shops, Western fran- impressive artwork. chises, board game bangs, Hae Kom Players- Welcome to anyone who is interested in the production of a play to debut Jirisan National Park September 18. Meet at the statue in front of Ulsan University (Mugeodong) Sundays at 6pm. arcades and the obligatory Geographically, Masan as well as Tongyeong More info: [email protected] book-store-with-English- looks like a logical stepping and the South Sea Is- section spread out from the stone to other destinations. Jam Session- Always open to newcomers, this musically driven group meets most Saturday nights lands. . . University’s main gate. The There’s some truth to this, at 11 at Woodstock bar. music bar All That Jazz is in as it is a great place from Spanish Conversational Group- All levels are welcome. For anyone who wants to learn or just The Chang-dong area of this area, sporting an excep- which to springboard to Masan is where all the young want to brush up on their Spanish skills. tional collection of music other spots in the southern More info: [email protected] and hip Koreans gather. on plastic and vinyl. part of Korea, But Masan It’s similar to Ulsan’s old itself is a fine destination Writers’ Group- Every other Wednesday (Nov 3, 17, Dec 1). Share your work, critique, be heard downtown, but larger and The ferry terminal is located in its own right. To anyone or just listen at McKenzie’s at 11pm. [email protected] fresher. Like Ulsan, Masan a short walk from the Uni- willing to devote a day or More info: has two department stores, versity, offering seaway pas- two, Masan does not disap- If you have any events you would like listed here, let us know: [email protected] but most of the young locals sage to Geoje-do and other point. prefer to shop around the islands. Dakoli is also where [email protected] 4 THE ulsan Pear Muju Magic works in summer and winter by Matt Wurdeman ry year in August. Muju is one of Korea’s most popular I found Muju to be a charm- however. Deogyusan has How to get there: The Ulsan Pear one of the few places left in ski resorts. With 23 slopes ing little town, some Grade-A hiking, and The closest train station is Korea that you can find fire- and 15 ski lifts, and the people there are great sightseeing Yeongdong, 4 hours from Roughly 200 km west of Ul- flies, and the festival focuses are exceptionally opportunities. Ulsan. Then it’s a 30- san lies the small mountain on envi- friendly. A friend minute bus ride to Muju, or city of Muju. With a and I went for So if you want to swim in a 25,000won taxi ride. For popula- the Firefly Fes- an unpolluted river, look at the ski slopes, Gucheon- tion of tival, and, be- bugs, or hit the slopes, Mu- dong runs hourly shuttles 3 0 , 0 0 0 ing the only ju’s the place to do it. But, from the parking lot across p e o p l e , f o r e i g n e r s whatever you decide to do, from the bus station to the it’s a re- there, were do it soon. In their bid for resort, and buses frequently f r e s h i n g treated like the Winter Olympics, the depart Muju for Gucheon- c h a n g e celebrities. city has started massive con- dong. Your best bet, how- from the (We missed struction projects, includ- ever, is to find lodging in hustle and one of our ing a new highway into the Gucheon-dong. bustle, pol- s h u t t l e city and a KTX line. I sin- lution, and buses and cerely hope their bid for the [During the ski season, 2 4 - h o u r got a po- Olympics is declined. Oth- there is a direct shuttle bus chicken feet lice es- erwise it won’t be long until to Muju that leaves from restaurants of c o r t . ) Muju is absorbed into the in front of the Taewha Ho- bigger Korean There is rapidly expanding concrete tel early Saturday/Sunday cities. Nestled jungle that is becoming Ko- morning. ~ed.] in the moun- rea. [email protected] tains, Muju prides itself on being the clean- est city in Korea. there are a variety of And I must say, I ronmental runs for all levels of ski- couldn’t agree more. awareness and ecological er/snowboarder. It’s also The air is breathable, the preservation. If you go next one of the finalists for the 2014 Winter Ol- The air is breathable, the water drinkable, ympics. A days worth of skiing, including and you can even swim in the rivers. . . . lift ticket and rentals will run you around water drinkable, and you year make sure to check 60,000won. If you can even swim in the rivers. out the Firefly Habitat Ex- do plan on going, It’s a strong organic farming ploration, which includes a plan early. This re- community and the use of moonlit hike in the moun- sort continues to pesticides is rare. tains. And of course, don’t grow in popularity forget the “Love Bridge,” and you don’t want Muju is best known for two where you can “give a happy to get stuck there main attractions: The Fire- ending to your love story.” with no place to fly Festival and Muju Ski stay. Also, be wary of week- Resort. The Firefly Festival In Deogyusan National ends and holidays, as it can much more to Muju Photos: Bennett Ho is a 10-day festival held eve- Park is the Muju Ski Resort, get pretty crowded. than skiing and fireflies, THE ulsan Pear 5 korean cinema corner Where the F*ck With Dan Barham this area?” While chasing [email protected] down a purse-snatcher he comes across Eui-jin, (Yoon arahan So-yi) who is chasing the is Everyone? same thug. Unfortunately Director: Ryu Seung- for him, her ‘Palm Blast’ wan goes awry and she hits him With Filthy O’Nasty Cast: Ryu Seung-bum instead of the thug. He ends Yun Soy up at the Academy of the Benchwarmers Ahn Sung-ki ‘Seven Masters’ lead by Ja- Jung Doo-Hong un (An Sung-ki, Silmido). They say that there is Ja-un discovers whilst un- nothing more passionate For this month’s movie re- blocking the damage to his in life than two sporting view I had decided to go Chi from the palm blast, rivals going head to head. with whatever film the girl students. One master com- that Sanghwan has amazing But I beg to differ. I think at my local video shop rec- ments “I’m tired of staring potential and asks him to when two sporting sup- ommended to me. I asked at the wallpaper when I levi- train with them. Sanghwan porters go head to head her for a funny movie and tate.” To which the other re- finds the idea of being a Tao it creates an electrifying ended up with one that was plies, “I levitate only when master a little absurd, but atmosphere. Fortunately about a father agrees if they there is a place where the and his obsession will teach two can come together with sending his him a ‘Palm Arahan is the kind of film you and friendly banter can be kid to Seoul Na- Blast’ so that would get if old school Hong Kong the result of a good night tional Univer- he can get the out. sity. The movie Wire Fu and Korean Action films thugs back was not bad and for beating had had a love child with a kooky Benchwarmers which has showed the in- him up. The sense of humor.. . . recently opened in the ner workings of story gets its downtown area caters to Korean schools, drama when along with all the pressures, I need to change the light workers at an excavation all sports fans. The bar but ultimately I wouldn’t bulb.” This conversation site accidentally release the has been transformed into recommend it so I decided sets the tone for the rest of renegade master Heug-un Ulsan’s greatest sports to try again. I’m glad I did! the movie. (Jeong Doo-hong), who spectating arena, with the wishes to find the ‘sealed capability of showing any Photo: Dave Harvey Our movie opens with Arahan is the kind of film key’ and make himself mas- event, be it baseball, soc- day. The wings are as close become available for pri- five older Koreans sitting you would get if old school ter of the earth (of course) cer, NFL, rugby or lawn to the real thing as you will vate social gatherings. around an outdoor table Hong Kong Wire Fu and with its power. bowls. ever get back home. smoking cigarettes, drink- Korean Action films had The usual Korean drinks ing coffee, playing with had a love child with a The movie works very well Living in Ulsan it is some- Besides the food and the are there, but Benchwarm- their cell phones, and com- kooky sense of humor. The as a comic treatment of times hard when you booze, The Bench offers er’s offers all the drinks plaining about the state of story centers around Sang- the Wire Fu genre, but has miss those dramatic mo- other extra curricular activi- from home. This in- martial arts instruction in hwan (Ryu Seung-beom) a definite Korean sensibilities. ments in sporting history. ties. If wasting your money cludes Molson Canadian, modern day Korea: “Kids newbie traffic cop with a de- The suggestion that ajum- Benchwarmers have been is called for, sit down and Crown Royal, Heineken today don’t even know what sire to do right, but he keeps mas walking around with able to capture these mo- have a roll of the dice and and many others. The ‘Tao’ is!” They comment on getting pushed around by massive bundles on their ments and make them see if you can win on ‘shut Bench also has an exten- their lack of success in find- low rent thugs and a system heads and work men on the available for all those the box’. If you’re more sive cocktail menu and if ing a new master and argue that doles out unequal jus- tops of construction sites are sports and beverage lovers. sporting inclined, there is it doesn’t have what you about changing with the tice. “Don’t you know that all masters of Tao without If you are after anything in foozeball, darts and table want ask the staff to make times, since they need new this is the Congressman for knowing it, makes the idea the way of sports they will hockey. There really is no one that will suit your of becoming a Tao master try their damn hardest to reason to miss those little fancy. that much more believable. get it for you. comforts from home. I also enjoy this film in that If your are looking to find while our hapless traffic cop As with any bar, it is im- Community spirit definitely out what will be happen- ends up being the master portant that there is more exists at the bar. No matter ing on any one particular and savior in the end, Eun- than just beer. A bar in what day of the week you night drop the bar an email jin does plenty of ass kick- Ulsan needs to cater to all can pop down there and at: benchwarmers@yahoo. ing along the way too. As a foreigner’s needs. The manage to run into some- com any of you who follow my Bench has a full western body and chat or complain column may have noticed, style menu, with some about the week at hand. So if you are in the down I have a thing for girls who Korean influences. Your The Bench has taken on the town area and are look- beat people up. beloved hamburgers, hot- dogs, fries and poutine rugby club, hockey team ing for a place where you and just about everything can sit, relax and warm The only complaint I might are here. As a special treat, else that can be played in up through the winter, have with this film is that The Bench has set up Ulsan. Recently a room has Benchwarmers is a must. they do a hell of a lot of yell- wing night every Wednes- ing during the fight scenes. Where the F*ck is everyone? Know of a happening new joint? Tell us where it is and we’ll send our crack team of alcoholics and social misfits to investigate and get you the straight goods. [email protected] They are trying to symbol- ize the gathering of an invis- ible force; ‘Chi’ but I think they could have done a lot FILTHY SAYS • Great community atmosphere less yelling and it would still • More than drinks have been effective. How- • Full western style menu ever, all in all this film is • Private room available an excellent romp through the Wire Fu genre and well • All the sports you can handle worth renting. • Foozeball, table hockey and more 6 THE ulsan Pear Bibimbap and Bamboo A trek up Daedunsan, a Korean scenic treasure

Photo: Dave Harvey by John Buckley Mt. Daedunsan Provin- tourist brochures state that The Ulsan Pear cial Park is located 50km the Provincial Park comes south of Daejeon and 25km equipped with a camping The 878-meter high peak southeast of Nonsan. site, none was to be found. of Daedunsan nestles very serenely on the borders of From Ulsan you have to go As you may know by now Chungcheongnam priv- nearly all the way to Dae- Koreans pitch their tents ince to it’s south and Jeolla jeon and even then you’re by their cars in the parking province to it’s north. Dae- still about 90 minutes away lot. How then they stared dunsan has been designated from Daedunsan. In total in deep amazement as two as Korea’s 8th most scenic it took us 5 hours in a bus waygooks pitched theirs in place by the Korea National to get there. Getting back a big open grass field at the Tourist Organization. was a lot more enjoyable as foot of the mountain as the we took the route through sun was setting. The grandiose beauty of its Jeolla-do and Gyeonsang- unique rock formations, its nam-do via Busan. It took The sunrise and sunset forests of pine, bamboo and about 4 hours and is far viewed from Daedunsan azaleas plus the unbeliev- more scenic. You actually are especially gorgeous. Af- ably clean air make it by far get to see cows out grazing ter a supper of bibimbap, a the nicest part of Korea that in the fields. few bottles of red wine and I have laid my eyes upon. not too many hours sleep Getting up this mountain is The next most difficult we were set for the recom- the easy part. Getting to it thing once you reach Dae- mended-4 hour hike to the is not. dunsan is finding a place to mountaintop. stay. Even though official Why I mention what we ate is that this area prides itself on its bibimbap, so much so that the total sum of eight restaurants in the little town served nothing else but bibimbap. Sanchae-bibim- bap (steamed rice mixed with wild vegetables) and air with foul odors of these it’s cleaned up on a regular (a love motel). It seemed boribap (steamed rice mixed foodstuffs? basis as it’s a real eyesore in to be the only place to stay with barley) are the big ones what was otherwise a silvery around there. The soothing here. The area is also sup- The mountain itself is stun- wonder-land of autumnal and rejuvenating effects of posed to be renowned for ning and the trek up for the tinted foliage. its bathhouse the following its raw trout and duck dish- most part is relatively easy. morning set me up nicely es (Dotorimuk -acorn jelly) Highlights included the From the mountain top for our 4-hour journey back but I saw very little meat cable car journey which we you can look out over the to Ulsan. knocking around. took on our way down, the Honam Plains and Gunsan 100 yard long steel suspen- on the Yellow Sea and dream Pros However the food on the sion bridge which shakes of China whilst filling your Clean air ground was at least better when you rock the sides and lungs with something they Beautiful scenery than that on the mountain. causes a few kids to scream are not used to around Ul- A comfortable hike Various little stalls sprinkle for their lives, squirrels san: clean and fresh air. The local stores sell red the actual-2 hour trek up the and little waterfalls appear- wine mountainside. All of them ing here and there out of While this mountain hike without exception sell dry rocks but certainly not the wasn’t particularly exert- Cons squid, bundaegi and very big heap of garbage about ing I was glad to trade the Bus ride little else. Are the mountain three-quarters way up. It’s a tent that evening for the The Food authorities deliberately try- dump where trekkers cast all warmth and comfort of the No pub Photo: Dave Harvey ing to destroy the pure clean their waste. I seriously hope Geumsan-eup Insam Hotel [email protected] Vote Now! Win Prizes THE ulsan Pear 7 best, worst and most baffling of ulsan 2004 Here it is, the First Annual Ulsan Pear ‘Best, Worst and Most Baffling’ of Ulsan. Results will be published in our December issue.

Please fill out the form as completely as possible. Completed forms can be left in any of the four Official Ballot boxes – located at Tombstone, Benchwarmers, McKenzie’s or Korean Union Café. Deadline for all submissions is November 21.

Please make sure you include your name, phone number and email addresses. Completed ballots will be drawn at random from all entries for prize packages courtesy of our sponsors.

FOOD AND DRINK: Best Answer To the Question “uhh...Russian?” SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT: Best Western Food Restaurant Best/Worst Cross Cultural Misunderstanding Best Cell Phone Store Best Place to Get Imported Food Best Konglish Sign (Submit Photos) Best Outdoor Store Best Butcher Best View Of Ulsan Best Women’s Clothing Store Best Bakery Best Hidden Treasure Best Men’s Clothing Store Best Vegetable Market Best Souvenir Of Korea Best Place for Cheap Clothes Best Pizza Worst Smell Best Photo Equipment Store Best Chicken Worst Korean Trend Best Electronics Store Best Korean Dish Best/Worst Ajumma Job Best Computer Store Strangest Korean Dish Best Music Store TRANSPORTATION: Best Place To Go For Breakfast or Sunday Brunch Best Selection of DVD’s Best Place To Buy A Motorcycle/Scooter Best Place to Get Vegetarian Food Best Place To Hang Out On A Sunny Day Best Scooter Best Korean Alcoholic Beverage Best Rainy Day Activity Worst Scooter Best Korean Beer Best Church Best Korean Car Worst Korean Beer Best Korean TV Show Worst Korean Car Best Korean Non-Alcoholic Drink Best Korean Movie Most dangerous intersection Best Cup of Coffee in Ulsan Best Korean TV Channel Best Korean Food Product Name HEALTH: Best Korean Pop Group/Singer Best Hospital/Clinic NIGHTLIFE: Worst Korean Pop Group/Singer Best Hospital/Clinic For Women Best Korean Nightclub BEST OF THE BANGS: Best Dentist Best Foreigner Bar Best DVD Bang Best Place To Buy Condoms Best Live Music Best Norae Bang Worst Disease Acquired In Korea Best Place to Meet Foreigners Best PC Bang Best Acupuncturist/Traditional Doctor Best Place to Go After a Night Out Best Room Salon Best Hangover Cure

TRAVEL AND TOURISM: Best Soju Bang

Best Hiking Best Bathhouse Other:

Best Outdoor Recreation (Mountain Biking, Climbing, Best Board Game Bang Windsurfing etc.) Miscellaneous: Best Beach Best dong

Best Temple Sketchiest Neighborhood

Best Weekend Getaway Best Place to Find Free Furniture ENTRANT Name: Best of Ulsan’s 12 Scenic Sites Best Escape from Korean Life Phone Number: Email Address: Worst of Ulsan’s 12 Sceninc Sites Most Useful Korean Phrase one entry per person please. 8 THE ulsan Pear A GREAT ESCAPE Geoje Island: beautiful coastline and unexpected entertainment by Eileen Keast anymore, check out Geoje- not entirely smooth) forty- The Ulsan Pear do, Korea’s second-largest five minute catamaran ride island. A picturesque is- away from Busan. If you’re dying to get out land of spectacularly rocky of Ulsan for a weekend and coastline and tiny fishing Good coastal roads and Busan’s just not cutting it villages, it lies a short (but relatively short distances between towns make Geo- je-do a good destination for scooter riders, and also make getting around by public transportation or taxi fairly easy. Besides the refresh- ingly untamed scenery (on

A picturesque is- Photo: Dave Harvey land of spectacu- Hana, Dool, Set.....KIMCHI! larly rocky coast- sive sights. Or, from Jang- The entire site is a demon- will be inexplicably revolt- seungpo there are ferries stration of the conflict be- ing and bludgeoning those line and tiny fishing regularly carting passengers tween propaganda and the same captors to death in villages out to Oedo, an island of the next. It may not make heavily classical man-made The entire site is sense, it may not be that ed- the south coast - the north gardens which pose a stark a demonstration ucational and it may focus is given over to shipyards), contrast to the natural beau- way too much on the how Geoje has a few worthwhile ty of Geoje itself. of the conflict -be and where of the prisoners’ tourist attractions. tween propaganda bowel movements, but it’s My favorite Geoje attrac- and the desire to certainly entertaining. The most popular of these tion, however, has to be the adhere to histori- is Hallyeo Haesang Nation- “museum” at the former site Ferries for Geoje-do run fre- al Park. Here you can take of Geoje-do’s massive pris- cal fact . . . quently from Busan’s coastal in the best of Geoje’s coastal oner of war camp. It’s actu- ferry terminal near Nampo- scenery, and take boat ex- ally called something like desire to adhere to historical dong, and cost about 20,000 cursions out to some of the “Historical Park of Prisoner fact, as POWs happily sew- won per passenger. towering rocky islets that of War Camp,” but “POW ing uniforms for their cap- Land” would be more apt. Photo: Dave Harvey form Geoje’s most impres- tors in one life-size diorama [email protected] shaolin and maori come to korea

It started with accupuncture....he was addicted Photo: Joel Burslem Cont’d from page 1 tourists to Korea, roamed This festival is a must see Highlights from this year’s the festival grounds freely for anyone who has even a exhibition included Maori in their off time. All were remote interest in martial warriors from New Zealand, posure to many martial arts Off the main grounds, the How to get there: Shaolin Monks from China that are lesser known but no festival also took place at a There are several buses a day and the ever-popular Ca- This year’s exhibition included Maori warriors less amazing to watch. number of secondary ven- to Chungju from Ulsan, poeira fighters from Brazil. from New Zealand, Shaolin Monks from China The festival was extremely ues spread across the city, however they are not direct and the ever-popular Capoeira fighters from well organized; with numer- including the famous Suan- and stop at several points In addition to the events on Brazil. ous English-language trans- bo and Angseong hot spring along the way. Total trip the Main Stage, the festival lators available, in addition resorts. This makes for an time is just under 5 hours. allows visitors to interact in to several tourist informa- especially pleasant evening, It may be faster to take an more hands-on lessons with very approachable and eager arts, as it has many great op- tion booths that could di- as you can top it off a night’s express bus to Cheongju each of the groups. Also, to share information about portunities to watch some rect you to affordable and entertainment with a soak and then a local bus from many of the international their martial art with any- of the best in their field convenient accommodation in one of the many outdoor Cheongju to Chungju. participants, themselves one who was interested. perform. It’s also great ex- in the city. spas that dot the valleys. [email protected] THE ulsan Pear 9

Zen andto board the Buddha th Bus. ladene with A Deep rt Meaning, We alsoof had to keep a monasTe- Wea were supposedMa to have kAfter abouting 3 to 4 roastings, by Anne Bell The Ulsan Pear The temple was of course but which were also plenty tic schedule, which meant picked our own tea leaves, the leaves have dried and are nestled in the mountains, humorous. He told us of a going to bed at 9:30pm so but due to inclement weath- ready to be brewed into a It was with great enthusi- and though not large, was bathroom building contest that we could rise at 4:00am. er, this had been done for wee cup of personal enlight- asm that I boarded a bus at nonetheless charming. We between two of the biggest In the predawn darkness, a us. We were shown how the enment. a ridiculously early hour one were shown to our shared temples in Korea, Haein-sa young monk pounded the tea is roasted in a huge iron Saturday morning last May, room, and instructed to and Tongdo-sa. Apparently Daeheungsa can be found bound for a temple situated change into drab brown the more superior of the In the predawn darkness, a young monk in Jeollanamdo province, in the most South-Western Buddha apparel. two bathrooms was so vast pounded the big temple drum with vigour about an 1 and a half south part of Korea. Daeheung and deep, that the monks and skill for over 10 minutes. His masterful of Gwangju, near to the temple was offering a tem- A short while later, we were would make their morning town of Haenam. Gwangju ple stay for foreigners where joined by our host monk. deposit, and it wouldn’t hit performance concluded with the sounding is easily accessible by express we could experience temple He was very monkish with the bottom till nightfall. of the temple bell. bus, and from there you can life first hand as well as take his shaved head and elegant catch a bus to Haenam. For part in making green tea. grey robes but with an As part of our monk train- big temple drum with vig- pot set over a wood fire. The more information about Myself and a group of about impishly infectious smile. ing, we had do things the temple stays throughout 15 other foreigners gathered our and skill for over 10 leaves are roasted several Throughout the course monastic way. Eating dinner minutes. His masterful per- times, and between roast- Korea consult the web page at the Haenam bus terminal of our stay, he told plenty was an incredibly complicat- www.templestaykorea.net. in Jeollanamdo, and waited formance concluded with ings, are rolled by hand to of monk stories, the kind ed task. A set of 4 bowls has the sounding of the temple squeeze out excess moisture. [email protected] to be unwrapped just so, ar- bell, whereupon we entered ranged just so and the food the main worship hall. We put into its particular bowl were surrounded by count- just so. All your food has to less buddhas gleaming in be completely consumed, gentle candle light, and and the bowls washed with above our heads a colourful only a piece of radish kim- layer of lanterns glowed. We chi and a bit of water. sat silently as the distinctive tok-tok of the wooden bell mingled with the warm, low tones of the monks’ chant- ing, filling our ears and emptying our minds.

Later on that morning, we visited the tem- ple’s tea mak- ing hut, where the monks produce tea exclusively for consumption at the temple. Photos: Anne Bell 10 THE ulsan Pear

that such a tranquil valley Fourth Tunnel? as this was once the scene Korea Travel Spotlights of some of the most fero- cious fighting of the Korean A Photo Essay by Bennett Ho (Facing page) War. Besides the DMZ the Despite a long chaotic history followed by a recent rush to modernize, South Korea is a only reminder that a battle country still filled with fascinating culture and unspoiled scenery. For a casual sightseer occurred in this beautiful or an avid traveller, South Korea has plenty of destinations and charming sights to offer. valley is the billboard in the North, South, East or West - pick a place and ‘just go’. city proclaiming this basin as the site of the final battle 1. War Memorial Museum – Seoul the three-tiered cascading falls is an excel- featured in the hit Korean The War Memorial Museum in Seoul lent place to for a quiet stroll during off peak movie, Taegugki. is perhaps one of the biggest war mu- hours. seums in the world. Those interested To reach the Punch- in the history of the Korean War(s) 6. Jungmun Beach– bowl, travel north from would be well advised to stop for a vis- Bow-shaped Jungmun beach is located near Chuncheon on Highway it. There are two exhibition areas, one a resort complex on the south-western side 46. The highway travels up indoors and the other outdoors(free). of Jeju. The water is especially clean and the Photo: courtesy of US Army Center of Military History and twists around the sides tropical atmosphere is unlike any found on Cont’d from page 1 hostilities were to break out of some high mountains 2. Seokguram Grotto – Gyeong Ju mainland Korea. Inside the valley there are again. There are actually before traveling adjacent to Located near the summit of Mt. To- many farms and the village a number of these tunnels Soyang Lake. This highway hamsan, east of the historic city of 7. Beomeosa - Busan of Haean. Haean is a very that have been discovered will take you to Yanggu. Gyeong Ju, this bell pavilion is the These Buddha statues rest at Beomeosa, a small village with little ac- along the DMZ. From the From there take Highway start of the trail up to Seokguram secluded temple on the north end of Busan. commodation and a heavy Ulji Observation Post you 31 going north. The high- Grotto. Inside a dome like structure It’s quite a famous temple in Korea and many military presence. way travels along a sits a three meter high white Buddha Buddhists come here to pray, some on a daily The village does have pretty valley dotted statue. basis. a small museum and sporadically with you can book a tour farms and military 3. Southern Islands - Tongyeong to see the 4th Infil- bases. Eventually 25km off the coast of Tongyeong tration Tunnel and you will reach an City, Somaemuldo is a small beauti- the Ulji Observation exit to the Punch- ful island with rocky cliffs surround- Post. bowl. The signs ed by clear blue water. The lighthouse are clearly marked. in the picture is actually on a smaller The fourth tunnel The road to the island(Deungdaedo) which is accessi- was discovered in Punchbowl travels ble during low tide. March 1990. This up an extremely tunnel is buried at a steep road that 4. Bullfighting Arena - Cheongdo depth of 145 meters reaches over 1000 Bullfighting is a traditional event in below ground and meters in eleva- Korea dating back to ancient times. measures two meters Photo: courtesy of NASA Visible Earth Archive tion. From the top Each spring this international event is high and two meters Punchbowl from space of the road you get held in Cheongdo, a small town lo- wide. If you are tall you will can get a good look into a great view of the area and cated between Ulsan and Daegu. need to make sure you wear North Korea and you can the inside of the Punchbowl your hard hat while walking even see the western end of itself. Follow the road to 5. Cheonjeyeon Waterfall – Jeju Is- through the tunnel because the Kumgang Mountains Haean and the museum land you will hit you head. The on a clear day. [Check out Jonathan’s web Cheonjeyeon waterfall offers some tunnel was created to secret- log GI Korea @ http://jeti- great photo opportunities while visit- ly infiltrate North Korean Looking at the Punchbowl ranger.tripod.com/BLOG/] ing Jeju Island. The area surrounding soldiers into South Korea if today it is hard to imagine [email protected] THE ulsan Pear 11

2 Korea Travel Spotlights Photos by Bennett Ho [email protected] www.bhophoto.com

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7 THE ulsan Pear 12 10 best day trips near ulsan 1. Climb over the rocks at Youngnam Alps. The hike 7. Eat lunch with the Ulgi Park/Daewangam is especially beautiful in the monks at Tongdosa Tem- Ulgi Park juts out through fall. ple a small forest of pine trees Enjoy a free, vegetarian and culminates in an Es- 4. Tour up the coast and meal with the monks every cher-esque mass of reddish visit the fish market at evening at one of the three Pareaso Falls rocks that plunge into the Jeongja Beach representative Buddhist East Sea. Pass breathtaking scenery as temples in Korea. you cruise past the famous 2. Swim in the Water- black pebble beach to the 8. Stroll through Ulsan fall at Pareso bustling seafood market. Grand Park The crystal clear waters in These magnificent sculp- the pool of Pareso Water- 5. Climb from Bulguksa tured gardens display vari- fall are perfect for a warm Ulsan Grand Park Temple to the Seokguram ous types of flora found s u m m e r ’s Grotto across the Korean penin- Illustration: Fiona Burke day dip. A gem of ancient Buddhist sula. architecture awaits you as you climb up from the fa- 9. Relax on Jinha beach 3. Hike to mous Bulguksa temple. The nicest beach in the Ul- best of ulsan 2004 the top of san sports clean water and Mt. Gaji 6. Shop in Nampo-dong the best sand in the area. Mt. Gaji is market in Busan Windsurfing and kite surf- Now it’s your turn! Vote the tallest Hit the big city for an af- ing can be found here in the peak in the ternoon shopping spree summer. for the Best, Worst and Bulguksa Photos: Dave Harvey through the busy markets clustered near Busan’s har- 10. Take in the view from Most Baffling of Ulsan. bour. Mt. Munsu Check out a sprawling vista of the Win great prizes! We Ulsan Met- ropolitan Re- need to hear from YOU. gion. Great rock-climb- ing for those Vote now on page 7 vertically in- clined. Jeongja Fish Market Lunch with Monks