Brined Cheeses

Edited by

Dr Adnan Tamime Dairy Science and Technology Consultant Ayr, UK

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Brined Cheeses

11405124601_1-3405124601_1-3 (prelims).indd(prelims).indd i 006/04/20066/04/2006 18:55:5718:55:57 11405124601_1-3405124601_1-3 (prelims).indd(prelims).indd iiii 006/04/20066/04/2006 18:56:3818:56:38 Brined Cheeses

Edited by

Dr Adnan Tamime Dairy Science and Technology Consultant Ayr, UK

Editorial Ofﬁ ces: Blackwell Publishing Ltd, 9600 Garsington Road, Oxford OX4 2DQ, UK Tel: +44 (0)1865 776868 Blackwell Publishing Professional, 2121 State Avenue, Ames, Iowa 50014-8300, USA Tel: +1 515 292 0140 Blackwell Publishing Asia Pty Ltd, 550 Swanston Street, Carlton, Victoria 3053, Australia Tel: +61 (0)3 8359 1011

The right of the Author to be identiﬁ ed as the Author of this Work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except as permitted by the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, without the prior permission of the publisher.

First published 2006 by Blackwell Publishing Ltd

ISBN-10: 1-4051-2460-1 ISBN-13: 978-1-4051-2460-7

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Brined cheeses / edited by Adnan Tamime. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-4051-2460-7 (alk. paper) ISBN-10: 1-4051-2460-1 (alk. paper) 1. Brined cheeses. I. Tamime, A. Y. SF272.B76B75 2006 637’.35--dc22 2005030970

A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library

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Preface to Technical Series xiii Preface xv Contributors xvii

1 Constituents and Properties of Milk from Different Species 1 T. HUPPERTZ, V.K. UPADHYAY, A.L. KELLY & A.Y. TAMIME 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Chemical composition of milk 3 1.3 Constituents of milk 4 1.3.1 Lactose 5 Introduction 5 Biosynthesis of lactose 5 Physical properties of lactose 6 Reactions of lactose 7 Signiﬁ cance of lactose in dairy products 8 1.3.2 The milk salts 8 Introduction 8 Partitioning of milk salts between the colloidal and soluble phases of milk 9 Factors affecting the salt balance in milk 9 1.3.3 Lipids 10 Introduction 10 Composition and fatty acid proﬁ le 11 Milk fat globules 11 Stability of the milk fat emulsion 12 1.3.4 Proteins 15 Introduction 15 Whey proteins 15 Caseins 17 Casein micelles 19 1.3.5 Indigenous milk enzymes 24 Plasmin 24 Lipoprotein lipase 26 Alkaline phosphatase 26 Lactoperoxidase 27 Other indigenous milk enzymes 27 1.4 Rennet-induced coagulation of milk 29

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1.4.1 Introduction 29 1.4.2 Primary stage of rennet-induced coagulation of milk 29 1.4.3 Secondary stage of rennet-induced coagulation of milk 30 1.4.4 Factors that inﬂ uence rennet-induced coagulation of milk 31 Milk pH 31 Calcium concentration 31 Ultraﬁ ltration (UF) 32 Cold storage 32 Heat treatment of milk 33 High-pressure treatment of milk 33 1.5 Conclusions 33 References 34

2 Feta and Other Balkan Cheeses 43 E.M. ANIFANTAKIS AND G. MOATSOU 2.1 Background 43 2.2 Feta cheese 43 2.2.1 Introduction 43 2.2.2 Production methods 44 2.2.3 Manufacturing stages 45 Milk for cheese production 45 Treatment of the cheese milk 47 Renneting 48 Cutting and moulding 49 Salting 50 Packaging and maturation of the cheese 51 2.2.4 New trends in Feta cheese manufacture 53 2.2.5 Properties of Feta cheese 53 2.2.6 Defects of Feta cheese 60 2.2.7 Feta cheese whey 60 2.3 Miscellaneous brined Greek cheeses 61 2.3.1 Sfela cheese 61 2.3.2 Batzos cheese 62 2.3.3 Kalathaki Limnou cheese 63 2.4 Telemes (Telemea cheese) 63 2.4.1 Manufacturing stages 63 2.4.2 Characteristics of Telemes cheese 67 2.5 Some examples of Balkan brined cheeses 68 2.5.1 Bjalo Salamureno Sirene (white brined cheese) 68 2.5.2 Belir Sir U Kriškama (white cheese in pieces) 69 2.6 Turkish brined cheeses 69 Acknowledgement 71 References 71

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3 Industrial Manufacture of Feta-Type Cheeses 77 A.Y. TAMIME, R.K. ROBINSON AND G. KIERS 3.1 Background 77 3.2 The cheesemaking process 79 3.2.1 Composition and hygiene quality of raw milk 81 3.2.2 Milk reception and storage 82 3.2.3 Optional preliminary treatments 83 Bactofugation 84 Microfi ltration (MF) 85 3.2.4 Standardisation of the casein-to-fat ratio 86 3.2.5 Tetra Tebel process 87 Pretreatment 87 Module 1 88 Module 2 88 Module 3 89 Packaging 92 3.2.6 Tetra Tebel Casofi ll® glucono-δ-lactone (GDL) 92 3.2.7 Tetra Tebel Casofi ll® cast Feta-type 94 3.3 Miscellaneous additives and treatments related to Feta-type cheeses 95 3.3.1 Starter cultures 95 3.3.2 Calcium chloride 95 3.3.3 Decolorising agents 97 3.3.4 Lipase 98 3.3.5 Preservatives 99 3.4 Recombined Feta-type cheeses 99 3.4.1 Introduction 99 3.4.2 Recombination of powders 100 3.4.3 Mimic the traditional method of production 101 3.4.4 Ultrafi ltration of recombined powders 102 3.4.5 Miscellaneous recombination methods 102 3.5 Plant specifi cation 103 3.6 Implementation of a hazard appraisal (analysis) critical control points (HACCP) system 103 3.7 Conclusion and future development(s) 107 References 109

4 Halloumi Cheese 117 P. PAPADEMAS 4.1 Historical background 117 4.2 The importance of Halloumi cheese to the Cypriot economy 117 4.3 Forecasts on the future of Halloumi cheese 118 4.4 Raw materials used for the production of Halloumi cheese 118 4.4.1 Milk 118

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4.4.2 Salt 121 4.4.3 Mint 121 4.4.4 Coagulant 122 4.4.5 Starter cultures 122 4.5 Manufacturing methods 122 4.5.1 Outline of the traditional process 122 4.5.2 Outline of the industrial process and comparison with the traditional method 123 4.5.3 Experimental production of Halloumi-type cheese using ultrafi ltration (UF) technology 126 4.6 Types of Halloumi cheeses 127 4.6.1 Fresh Halloumi cheese 127 4.6.2 Mature Halloumi cheese 128 4.6.3 Low-fat Halloumi cheese 128 4.7 Chemical composition and microbiological quality of the cheese 129 4.7.1 Chemical composition 129 4.7.2 Microbiological quality 130 4.8 Sensory profi ling and rheological properties of the cheese 132 4.8.1 Flavour and taste 132 4.8.2 Texture 133 4.8.3 Sensory profi ling 134 4.9 Quality and safety of dairy products 134 4.10 Nutritional value of Halloumi cheese 135 4.11 Conclusion 135 Acknowledgement 136 References 136

5 North African Brined Cheeses 139 M. ABD-EL SALAM AND N. BENKERROUM 5.1 Background 139 5.2 Production and consumption of dairy products in North African countries 141 5.3 Egyptian pickled cheeses 142 5.3.1 Domiati cheese 142 Technological aspects 142 Coagulants 143 Starter cultures 144 Cheese yield 144 Compositional changes during the storage period of the cheese in brine 145 Texture and microstructure of the cheese 147 Microbiological quality 148 5.3.2 UF Domiati cheese 149 Introduction 149 Technical aspects 150 Compositional quality and yield of the cheese 150 Texture and microstructure of the cheese 151

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Packaging of the cheese 151 5.3.3 Tallaga cheese 151 5.3.4 Mish cheese 152 Technical aspects 152 Compositional quality and general characteristics of the cheese 153 Microbiological quality 154 5.4 North African brined cheeses 154 5.4.1 Traditional technology and properties of the cheeses 154 Milk preparation 156 Milk coagulation 156 Draining and moulding of the curd 159 Salting and preservation of the cheese 160 Maturation of the cheese 162 Quality appraisal of the cheeses 162 5.4.2 Some examples of North and East African brined cheeses 166 Soft-type brined cheeses 166 Semihard brined cheese 171 Camel’s milk brined cheeses 172 5.5 Conclusion 175 Acknowledgement 180 References 180

6 Brined Cheeses from the Middle East and Turkey 188 I. TOUFEILI AND B. ÖZER 6.1 Introduction 188 6.2 Middle Eastern cheeses 188 6.2.1 Cheese speciﬁ cations, standards and chemical composition 188 6.2.2 Technology of manufacture 188 General aspects 188 Mujaddal or Braided cheese 189 Nabulsi cheese 190 Comparative compositional quality of brined cheeses 194 6.3 Traditional Turkish cheeses 194 6.3.1 Technology of cheesemaking 195 6.3.2 Microbiological quality 200 Starter cultures (lactic acid bacteria, LAB, and non-starter lactic acid bacteria, NSLAB) 200 Microbial contaminants 204 6.3.3 Development of texture and microstructure of White cheese 204 6.4 Concluding remarks 205 References 207

7 Brined Cheeses and Analogues of Latin American Origin 211 M.N. OLIVEIRA AND C. BRITO 7.1 Background 211 7.2 Main brined cheeses produced in Brazil 212

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7.2.1 Introduction 212 7.2.2 Minas cheese (fresh and matured) 215 Minas Frescal 216 Minas Padrão 221 Meia Cura 223 7.2.3 Prato cheese 223 Traditional process 223 Ultraﬁ ltration (UF) process 227 7.2.4 Rennet cheese 227 7.3 Chilean dairy industry with particular emphasis on cheese production 229 7.3.1 Introduction 229 7.3.2 Cheese varieties produced in Chile 236 7.3.3 Main brined cheeses produced in Chile 237 Chanco 237 Gauda 241 Other cheese varieties 242 7.4 Conclusions 244 Acknowledgement 244 References 245

8 Indigenous Brined Cheese of the Philippines 249 V.L. BARRAQUIO 8.1 Introduction 249 8.2 Physicochemical and microbiological quality of the milks used for cheesemaking 250 8.3 Manufacturing methods 253 8.4 Modiﬁ cations to the manufacturing methods 255 8.5 Yield, composition and microbiological quality of the cheese 258 8.6 Conclusion 261 References 261

9 Quality of the Brine 264 T. BINTSIS 9.1 Introduction 264 9.2 Role of brining 265 9.2.1 Methods of salting/brining 266 9.2.2 Mechanism of brining 268 9.2.3 Factors affecting the rate and quantity of salt absorbed 269 Brine concentration and duration of salting 269 Composition of the curd and the brine 270 Temperature of the brine 270 Size and shape of the cheese block 271 Brine volume/cheese weight 271 9.3 Chemical composition of brines 271 9.4 Low-sodium cheeses 272 9.5 Microbiology of brines 274

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9.5.1 Effect of salt on microbes 274 9.5.2 The microfl ora of the brines 276 9.5.3 Defects caused by spoilage microorganisms 277 9.5.4 Use of preservatives 279 9.5.5 Survival of pathogens in brines 280 Listeria monocytogenes 280 Staphylococcus aureus 282 Enterohaemorrhagic Escherichia coli 282 Yersinia enterocolitica 283 Salmonella species 283 9.5.6 Stressed cells 284 9.6 Control measures 285 9.7 Quality control of brines 286 9.7.1 Physical and chemical control 286 9.7.2 Microbiological control 289 9.8 Purifi cation methods for cheese brines 290 9.8.1 Chemical treatment 290 9.8.2 Heat treatment 291 9.8.3 Treatment with UVC light 291 9.8.4 Treatment with UVA light plus furocoumarins 292 9.8.5 Kieselguhr fi ltration 292 9.8.6 Microfi ltration 293 9.9 Conclusion 294 References 294

10 Utilisation of Brined Cheeses in Other Food Preparations 302 A.Y. TAMIME AND R.K. ROBINSON 10.1 Background 302 10.2 Salad dishes 303 10.3 Snacks and savoury dishes 303 10.3.1 Cheese snacks 303 Halloumi recipes 303 Akkawi recipes 305 Creamy Chanco (Gauda) recipes 306 Rennet cheese 306 10.3.2 Savoury dishes 307 Lebanese cuisine 307 Moroccan cuisine 308 Miscellaneous Greek dishes made with Feta cheese 309 Turkish cuisine 309 Brazilian cuisine 310 Philippine cuisine 310 10.4 Desserts 310 10.4.1 Knafeh, Kunafeh or K’nefe bi-jibn (pastry with cheese) 310 10.4.2 ‘Sweet’ cheese 312 10.4.3 Hosmerim 313

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10.4.4 Brazilian sweet cheese dishes 314 10.5 Conclusion 315 Acknowledgement 315 References 315

Index 317

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For more than 60 years, the Society of Dairy Technology (SDT) has sought to provide education and training in the dairy fi eld, disseminating knowledge and fostering personal development through symposia, conferences, residential courses, publications, and its journal, the International Journal of Dairy Technology (previously known as Journal of the Society of Dairy Technology). In recent years, there have been signifi cant advances in our understanding of milk systems, probably the most complex natural food available to humanity. Improvements in process technology have been accompanied by massive changes in the scale of many milk/dairy processing operations, and the manufacture of a wide range of dairy and other related products. The Society has now embarked on a project with Blackwell Publishing to produce a Technical Series of dairy-related books to provide an invaluable source of information for practising dairy scientists and technologists, covering the range from traditional to modern large-scale operations. This, the third volume in the series, on Brined Cheeses, under the editorship of Dr Adnan Tamime, complements the fi rst volume's on Fermented Milks in taking the use of microorganisms into the production of longer-life dairy products. Brined cheeses form a group of early cheese types originating from the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East, which are resistant to high ambient temperatures and do not require refrigeration in their traditional forms. Some of these cheeses, particularly feta, have become accepted worldwide and add further variety to the dairy products on offer to the consumer.

Andrew Wilbey President, SDT March 2005

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