T H E ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA, VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION I SLAND BUSHWHACKER
volume 30 * Issue 1 March, 2002
VI SECTION LEADERSHIP even started. He stressed a pace where DEVELOPMENT none are sweating and everyone is talking. The last 15 minutes are important for the leader to assess if A Week at the Summer Leadership participants enjoyed the climb and would consider coming back again. I Course August 2001 learned, when it was my turn as leader, to always keep an eye on the terrain, Jules Thomson and to make mental notes of members, I just want to give the prominent landmarks, the weather, and Hellomembership an idea of what it is good routes that could be used on the like to attend a leadership camp from my return to the camp. At the same time, I perspective. The trip started out with a long should observe the particpants and drive to Revelstoke with Anne and Rob, from how they were coping with the climb. Vancouver, for an overnight stay in Revelstoke. On the fourth day we hiked up into a The next morning we drove north of Revelstoke snow basin, to practice crevasse to the launching site. The helicopter ride was rescue. An easy way of dividing the short and sweet down a creek valley and over a rope up for glacier travel is to divide col and down onto the alluvial floodplain of the rope in half and tie a bite at the Windy creek in the Remillard range of the mid-point, then divide each remaining Sellkirk mountains. The floodplain was a vast section in half and put a bite into the flat sea of tents with a large tent for meals, a middle of those sections. Any tent for the ropes and a tent for books, maps remaining rope on the ends can be put Ridge Climbing in the Selkirks. Photo: J. Thomson and sign-up for the people attending the general into the climbers' packs for ready use mountaineering camp. when needed. We practiced crevasse On the second day we hiked out to a low rocky area and practiced rescue, snow school techniques of self-arrest, using crampons on ice, putting rock gear in and setting up anchors, and learning the new and placing ice screws. technique of short-roping. We reviewed the knots that the guides The fifth day we all split into groups again and did a major climb of prefer, the clove, the double fisherman, and the figure 8---technically rock or snow. I was lucky enough to lead up the Remillard Glacier the "munter" is not considered a knot, according to the guides, but through some gaping crevasses with an ice-axe in one hand and an they used it a lot. The 3 S's for tying into the harness ----secure, umbrella in the other. The temperatures were 30-35 degrees C, all safety, and speed. The guides were always on to us about efficiency week, with blue skies and not a cloud in sight. At the summit of and speed in getting ready, etc. The guides did not like bent -gate Remillard at 9455 feet [the map was in feet], we joyfully took summit carabiners for any mountaineering use, especially not in slings. They pictures while other climbers joined us looking fresh as the daisies in believe the bent- gate carabiner is best used for sport climbing only--- the alpine meadows below, with every hair in place, no sweat soaked that was the distinction they made. The 7 points to remember for shirts, and minimal packs. It seems that many a wealthy American-- setting up an anchor were set out in the word "Earnest": E for equal can I say that?---can afford to hire a helicopter to drop them off at the tension, A for angles less than 60 degrees, R for redundant, N & E toe of the glacier so they can just scamper up a shorter distance. Karl, for non-extended so that if one piece fails the whole anchor doesn't our guide for the day, was trying to talk them into giving us a come out, S for strong and T, once again, Timely. helicopter ride down but was not successful so we trudged back down The short-roping technique consisted of having about 2 meters of the glacier, down the snow ramp and over the avalanche area, across rope between two people with one person acting as a brake to catch the nasty, long, long, boulder field, and back to camp. The sixth day, any slip. This technique should be used when leading inexperienced no rest for the eager leadership participants, we climbed up to a flat people on terrain that is not too extreme. topped bump to practice rock rescue for the day, and to review our On our third day we divided into groups and went into the mountains compass and map use. The whole day was devoted to rock rescue with each participant taking the role as guide for the group. One of with each of us taking our turns at setting up a pulley, rescue system our guides stressed that the first and the last 15 minutes can "make or with minimal gear. The guides’ motto, "travel light"! break" a trip for the people in your group. The seventh day we were back groups for a free climb. We decided He pointed out that if the leader starts out with an extremely fast pace- to go back and do a ridge between two peaks and then climb the one --the slower people are " spent" and discouraged before the trip has peak "Craw", down a glacier, across a basin to Nadir col, down to
Island Bushwhacker -1- Volume30 * Issue 1 Windy creek and back to tent city. The ridge points. If you ever get the chance to attend VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION we chose had about 3 gendarmes, perched at this program in the future, TAKE IT. OF THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA an angle leaning to the east, that we had to To begin at the end, the last formal part of the get around. We managed to ride a long series course was a three on one evaluation of our of aretes "au cheval", then we came to a leadership skills with the guides/instructors: gendarme with a little shelf on the left side, Peter Amann, Brad Harrison and Cyril but with the wall bulging out with the intent Shokoples. The reference to art came up of pushing anyone crazy enough to be on the several times during the week. I consider shelf, off. We decided to take our packs off, myself artistic and creative in many ways and clip them to the rope and shuffle across, very appreciated the portrayal of traveling in the ungracefully, on our derrieres along the shelf, winter environment as an art. Using the with our feet dangling over thousands of feet terrain effectively and efficiently while SECTION EXECUTIVE of air below. Once at the end of the shelf we constantly evaluating stability, hazards, climbed up to a block which seemed to shift weather and other factors is a challenge. And 2002 as we sat perched on it like a butterfly being comfortable and completely at ease are CHAIR - Tom Hall 592-2518 SECRETARY -Lynn Peppler 370-5135 hanging onto a swaying flower in the wind. feelings I value a great deal when travelling in TREASURER - Rick Eppler 477-5806 At least the block wasn't swaying! We the wilderness. Add the reality of leading a MEMBERSHIP - Jules Thomson 472-3820 quickly tried to climb off the block except the group in these conditions and the picture NATIONAL CLUB - Gerta Smythe 478-7369 leader's foot had gone numb so we anxiously becomes more complicated. SCHEDULE - Catrin Brown 477-5806 FMCBC - Russ Moir 477-0070 waited until he moved on. We then resumed Being able to assimilate these factors and our climb up to the summit, then back down more and then make the trip flow through its across the glacier and around a few crevasses many stages must be the mark of a good MEMBERS AT LARGE and back down to the feast, that is for the leader. Don Morton thousands of horseflies, black flies, gnats, and Leadership was the thread which tied this Sylvia Moser Tony Vaughn mosquitoes. course together and the instructors did a great Ian Rongve The final day we dismantled tent city as it job of keeping it in focus while concentrating was the end of all the camps for the summer, on specific technical skills. These included: and then caught the helicopter out to our avalanche transceiver information and BUSHWHACKER EDITORS Larry Talarico 598-8377 vehicles. By 8:00 pm I was on a ferry back to techniques, helicopter safety, snow pack Rob Macdonald Vancouver Island.I will probably volunteer, evaluation, a map and compass review, an Viggo Holm 477-8596 as a volunteer guide, for the Marmot camp avalanche simulation, accident management, Anita Vaughn 360-9046 that the ACC holds every year and I will repair kits, first aid kits, glacier travel, certainly continue to lead trips for our section crevasse rescue, managing technical terrain with a more fine-tuned awareness of all the using short roping and a look at radios in the SUPPORT POSITIONS intricacies that leading entails. All in all it backcountry. Perhaps even more important was a great week! were the ‘soft’ skills: risk awareness, the EQUIPMENT - Paul Macoun 381-3834 LIBRARY - Judith Holm 477-8596 responsibilities of the leader, and WEB MASTER - Gerhardt Lepp The ACC North Face Winter communication. The particular needs of the GATE KEYS - Murrough O’Brien 479-9127 Leadership Course 2002 ACC were also kept in mind and certainly stimulated some healthy discussion throughout the week. Keith Battersby For myself, I like to focus on learning ACC website: course such as this just goes by too http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca technical skills but if I really take a critical quickly leaving a jumble of mental A look it is the soft skills which are harder to images and technical skills huddled in your ACC VI website: learn and are areas we can all as club leaders, http// www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/vi consciousness waiting for more practice and improve upon. input. I had been anticipating taking part in Risk is a factor in and of itself that leads us this course for several months and I certainly into the wilderness. The roots of risk might be The Island Bushwhacker is published 4 times a year by was not disappointed. I would have liked to ego, adrenaline, following the guy in front, the Vancouver Island Section of the A lpine Club of share the experience with another Vancouver Canada. fun and challenge, or peer pressure. The Island section member and been able to toss severity of the consequence determines the local ideas back and forth. This way, level of risk. Possible consequences might be however, I feel that much more appreciative injury, fatality, ego loss, financial loss, Submission deadline for the next issue is: for having been able to attend. I would like Friday May 15, 2002. (Bushwhacker) embarrassment, or guilt. As a club leader it is to give something back to our club with a important to stay within your own comfort discussion of the course highlights. But first zone. And it is incumbent upon you to try to I would like to say the only low points were understand the comfort levels and acceptance IBSN 0822 - 9473 the bottoms of valleys or ski runs when of risk of the other group members. everyone’s mood was full of exuberance and exhilaration. There were plenty of high
Island Bushwhacker -2- Volume30 * Issue 1 The following quote appeared on the white board one evening: Wilderness First Aid “Leadership is not a science to be picked up in one book or course, but an art to be learned over time. It is not simply a set of rules to be Russ Moir followed, but an ability to build relationships. It is not merely skills his month (Jan'02), 10 members participated in Slipstream's well and techniques but a subjective blend of personality and style”. organized Basic course, which involved 4 days of intense Communication brings all the elements of good leadership together. T immersion in blood, bones and bacteria. It all scared the attendees to Be clear and concise about trip objectives and plans. Try to catch their tiny cores , facing all the dangers lurking out there in the hills. problems before they arise. Be prepared in your mind for most Now fortified with a battle plan and armaments (and a revitalized first scenarios and have a backup plan in place. During the trip, and aid kit) from Brooks' wide ranging commentaries, they are at least especially when traveling in avalanche terrain, be explicit and able to deal with more effectively those many scenes in the wild definite. Keep in touch with all members of the group. Keep your which we try our best to avoid. intentions in the open. Don’t be afraid to ask for other opinions. Take The group was an interesting mix of "older" members and a cohort of those opportunities to learn and to listen. But be prepared to make a young activists from U Vic's outdoor Club. This was the first "formal" decision or nurture one from the group as a whole. liaison between our 2 groups, since the student group became During one of several brainstorming sessions in this week we looked affiliated to the ACC. Seeing the skill and enthusiasm of the OCers at the responsibilities of the club leader to her/himself, to the ACC makes the join-up process seem well worth while. We look forward to and to the participants. Some of these are listed below: many more joint ventures with the group in the future. So if you're out on a trip and someone draws out from a floppy red To Self To ACC To Participants bag a heavy duty pair of surgical shears (the new "in" tool) you know you're in trouble. Either RUN or lie down and accept your fate. You'll Waivers Waivers Safety 'be bound' to enjoy the ride on a rude chariot. It's just that your $400 Fun Fees, administration Fun N Face jacket will be part of your stretcher ensemble. See how tough it is! Thanks to Ian and Brooks, two excellent presenters. Safety Trip bookings Screening Realistic goals Trip reports Assess skill, fitness, risk V I SECTION NEWS AND REPORTS Adequate preparation Carry through with plans Realistic goals FMCBC REPORT Self fulfillment Plan for success Pacing Russ Moir Fitness/health Mentoring Meet their Objectives few brief items from a larger group of issues that the Fed is Learning Learning Adealing with at present. They tend to make up a dismal package, Giving something back Behave and act ethically Help understand risk so you might want to have a tissue handy and don’t have the cat within kicking distance. Social/friendship Screen participants Help accept risk In no particular order of precedence— -South Chilcotin Mountains “Park” (sic): Even before the Liberal Our initial look at the snow pack showed a widespread weakness at a Government began its review of the designation to parks by the last buried surface hoar layer. This instability persisted throughout the government, there has been a significant extension of logging into the week, set the mood somewhat and kept us diligent during our daily ski area. Ainsworth Logging has pushed a 9km road up into the Bonanza tours. Despite the valuable information gleaned in evening sessions, Creek basin towards Spruce Lake ( a jewel in midst of a wide phalanx our time on skis was more intense and provoking. We had to draw on of glorious open flower meadows). Right now they are falling , information from previous days and apply it to ever changing skidding and hauling at a high rate of knots. Observers from WCWC conditions and terrain. The choices made by others provided even and the Fed have noted the activity and for what it’s worth made more information to analyze. We had our fair share of flat light and protest to the powers that be. Ugh!! poor visibility. That is when it became critical to use the moments -Grouse Grind: For those who have or might test their metal on this when we could see, to plan the route ahead, look for options for a safe (in)famous sweat band, it might be of interest that the Fed has put and fun descent, or verify a compass heading. As leaders we learned forward a proposal that if North Vancouver should take over the trail to work harder to make the following easier for those behind, we as a park, the Fed would help maintain the route with volunteer labour learned to use the terrain effectively to create smooth and gradual and donated materials. Looks almost promising. Grouse Mountain uptracks, to choose routes with minimal risk and to minimize our risk has considered buying the trail and adding it to their commercial when confronted with a hazard. And we learned to rely on each other. “exploitation” of the Grinders. hey already make millions from Certainly we all came to the course with similar objectives yet even summit beer sales and rides back down the hill. This would then be still we had to learn to accept and trust one another. “pay for trail” use and nasty thin end of the wedge.-Tantalus: The I would like to thank the Alpine Club of Canada and the Vancouver Fed, through delegate members, put in its penny-worth at the open Island Section for their support. We had some fabulous snow and houses held in November. The Fed proposes extending the great skiing and lots of fun, the guides ( in particular ) always had an ‘Wilderness Recreation Zone ‘ to include Mts Pelion and Ossa. The appropriate joke. turn out of active mountain users made a good impression on the planning staff, so hopefully something will come out of their
Island Bushwhacker -3- Volume30 * Issue 1 suggestions. For those who want to continue the wilderness mountain their attempt last year but with better acclimatization they felt better experience, the limitation of proposed flights on Tantalus and equipped for the summit attempt. On the morning of their summit day Rumbling glacier is of concern. Members of the Recreation and the temperature in their tent was around -20 C and outside with the Conservation committee have made their concerns known. windchill factor it dropped to -35 to –40. They left camp at 6am and -Avalanche Bulletin: The government in its wisdom(!!!) has cut funds arrived back safely 17 hours later. After talking to Charles it sounded for the semi-weekly Avalanche News. Their A.N. website bemoans like he was still on the summit high. Congratulations to all. this and seeks any support from individuals/groups using the site. It There is more news from last summer on Mt. Colonel Foster. On seems futile to point out, at this stage, that when the Swiss went from August 11, Mike and John Waters from Cumberland and Aaron twice weekly to daily reports there was a 50% reduction in avalanche Hamilton put a new route up on the North Tower. Their initial plan fatalities. As each avalanche rescue in BC costs between $5 and $15 was to climb the North Buttress which they had climbed in 1996, but thousand , the present reduced support goes against any idea of cost at the last minute decided to try a new line (X-rated) on the scar, a cutting in the public sector (or am I missing something??) prominent feature left when one of the towers disintegrated in the PS. Some thoughts that Thom Ward passed out give food for thought. earthquake of 1946. The first 7 pitches were on loose rock with His precis of the new cut-back effects shows how deep they will be. minimal protection and some dicey faces moves along with an The major impacts for "us" may be these: unprotected chimney, however, pitches 8 and 9 proved to be solid and i discontinued camping and recreation facilities in low use parks, the crux of the climb was a 5.9 hand crack. A low 5th class scramble "market rates" for park services (increased camp fees ) brought them onto the summit of the North Tower where they then i setting aside of environmental standards in revised Forest rapped off the West Face and down the couloir and back to their Practices Code, "results based"(??) evaluations camp at Iceberg Lake. i off-loading ecosystem protection/restoration onto local communities i elimination of Forest Land Reserve i Forest Service roads with non-industrial use transferred to other agencies: possible results= conversion to wilderness roads (not- maintained), de-activated or maintained on user-pay basis i Forest Service cease funding maintenance of forest sites & recreation trails i increased reliance on web-based information services (ie. less likelihood that a HUMAN will answer your questions/issues) Thom points out that his contacts with Forest District staff and MELP personnel show that they HAVEN'T received much comment from the public re-the cuts, giving them the feeling that they are 'on their own' (??) So maybe it's time, if you do have any, to phone up the local offices of any of the appropriate agencies and let them know how much you value their efforts, especially now that they are under so much pressure. The ones who do remain after this blood bath need a boost. Morning walk on the North Tower Photo by Steven Harng
UP ISLAND CLIMBING NEWS Further news from the Heathens during the last year: On June 23, 12 people flew into the Bate/Alava area for a week long camp. Ascents Lindsay Elms were made of The Thumb, Mt Gratton, Mt. Alava and some of its e have snow but not as much as we would like when compared satellites and the Northwest Ridge of Mt. Bate. The highlight of the Wto other seasons, however, that hasn’t stop us from getting out trip occurred on the summit of The Thumb. Gene Berkey led the climbing/skiing. As usual Mt. Arrowsmith has seen a lot of activity: climb and when he reached the summit he called Shauna Smitke to January 1 saw a party from the Alpine Club breaking in the new year have a look over the edge and there, to her surprise, was a diamond with an ascent by the Judge’s Route and on the 13th Lindsay Elms ring and a marriage proposal. Way to go guys! climbed the West Ridge after accessing the ridge via a steep gully The Heathens summer camp in the middle of July saw about 80 (before the Brugger Variation) just after exiting the trees from the members and guests throughout the 2 weeks and climbs were made of Snow Gully Route. Big Interior Mountain, Nine Peaks (N/S traverse), Rambler Peak via Mt Becher continues to be a popular backcountry ski-trip even the West Buttress, Syd Watts Peak, Mt. Tom Taylor, Kings Peak by through the ski-hill has been shut down for a couple of years. An the North Ridge and Pauper’s Buttress, and the East Peak of Mt. unfortunate incident was the deliberate ramming (four times) of Greg Cain. Mt. Matchlee was attempted but the climbers lost a battle with Gordon’s car near the Taylor River crossing while on an overnight the bush. trip on Mt. Klitsa. The result was over $6000 worth of damage and As always, a great deal was accomplished at Crest Creek Crags, with no one has been caught. climbs made during the heat of the day as well as some midnight On the positive side, the good news is Tony Vaughn, Charles Turner, ascents of aid routes. New anchors were placed at Top of the World, Sylvia Moser and Selena Swets reached the summit of Aconcagua on Emerald Wall and the new Hidden Walls. A ‘Bolt Fund’ at January 25. Conditions on the mountain were quite different from Strathcona Outfitters in Campbell River helps provide funding for fixed anchor maintenance.
Island Bushwhacker -4- Volume30 * Issue 1 One focus of the camp was to rescrub some of the routes at the forest And finally (we’re still with those hungry Heathens) Chris Barner crags. ‘Edge Grimley’, ‘Rattleflake shake’ and ‘Walk around the Paul Rydeen and Jim Tansky choppered into the Coast Mountains in Block’ at Two Tree Edge; and ‘Girl on a Burl’ at Cougar rock were August: their goal was the Southeast Buttress of Mt. Queen Bess. scrubbed. Also on Cougar Rock, the scary route ‘5.8 Climbing, 5.11 Unfortunately the weather wasn’t that cooperative and the first week Bugs!’ was retrobolted and renamed ‘Fresh Start’. At the Hidden was spent wearing every stitch of clothing while snuggled up in their Walls ‘Dancin’ Days’, a 5.9+ climb was bolted and led. sleeping bags. At last the sun arrived and the mountains began Paul Rydeen met with Reg Crane from BC Parks and discussed future shedding their snow directions for the Kings Peak Trail and trail around the Crags. As a A few lesser ‘peaklets’ were climbed including Diadem Peak and on result 17 hours of work was put in on the Hidden Walls trail, two their last day they decided to give the Munday route on the West Face loads of logs (the Heathens thank TimberWest for their support) were on Queen Bess a try as the Southeast Buttress was not in condition. collected, baffle boxes were filled with river rock and the flagging of This climb made up for their week of hibernation earlier. new sections of the trail at the ‘Eastern Block’ and the forest crags A week after flying out, Chris and Paul along with Darren Wellman were accomplished, as well as the completion of staging areas at the and Alanna Theoret flew into the Pantheons this time. Again the ‘Eastern Block’. weather turned bad but they were able to get out on a few half days In Oct/Nov upgrading on the King’s Peak Trail was done and the trail and climb a couple of 9,000 ft peaklets and engage in some was rerouted at the waterfall. All in all, over 200 man-days were put bouldering to alleviate the boredom. Although their initial objectives into their projects last year with 175 of those at Crest Crags. The were not achieved a good time was still had and in the words of Chris Heathens are doing an awesome job up their end of the island. Barner: “That’s mountaineering!
LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES
ur Section Library/Archives Ois accessed by visiting the library at 1991 Casa Marcia Crescent, Victoria (Holm 477-8596), or your requests can be scanned and e-mailed to you ([email protected])
The library contains: Guidebooks/Instructional books/maps/ACC publications / Mountaineering literature/Videos/Archives.
Donated by Gil Parker: "Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering” by Chic Scott, 2000
he ACC Coast Archives Committee is working on a exciting opportunity to bring about a: TPartnership Agreement between the Alpine Club of Canada (Vancouver, Vancouver Island and Whistler Sections) and the Whistler Museum and Archives to create a Coast Mountaineering Collection and an ACC Room in the Museum. A new, well-funded museum/archives and library is being designed for Whistler. The design process will take place in 2002, construction will require the full year of 2003, occupancy is expected for the summer of 2004. Spearheaded by Liz Scremin (Vancouver Section Chair), the Coast Archives Committee - Vancouver, Whistler and VI (Lindsay Elms & Judith Holm) Sections - have been working on an agreement with the Whistler Museum and Archives (WMAS) which would extend their mandate to include Coast Mountaineering! The vision is to create an outstanding centre for mountain research for the Coast Range and our Insular Range. This will complement the Whyte Museum in Banff, whose mandate for archival materials extends from the Rockies to the Columbia Mountains. The important materials of our ACC sections and our senior members will be preserved and catalogued in a professional and highly visible facility, that will make the materials available for the ACC and the public as a whole - for researchers, authors and educators. In this way, the estate of the donor will benefit and the memory of the individual will be honoured. The architects are adjusting the plans to include a research reading room with book shelves containing the Special Collections for both the ACC and the WMAS. This room is envisioned as looking similar to the Guides’ Room in the Canadian Alpine Centre, a visible centre of the Alpine Club of Canada in the Coast Mountains. The ACC are willing to fundraise and make a donation that will cover the shelving and cases and other furnishings of the reading room. In recognition of the donation, the ACC will have the honour of naming the room. The new museum, complete with our collection and the ACC Room will bring considerable prestige and public attention to the ACC name. This is a brief overview of the proposal. If you have comments/questions please contact Judith Holm at [email protected] or 477-8596.
Island Bushwhacker -5- Volume30 * Issue 1 NATIONAL CLUB NEWS ANCELLATION OF FUNDING FOR THE CCANADIAN AVALANCHE ASSOCIATION PUBLIC AVALANCHE BULLETINS. NATIONAL CLUB. REPORT: We need your support to keep the bulletins alive. Please forward this Gerta Smythe to those who would like to express their concerns regarding coming s your section representative, I attend the biannual National Club funding cuts. Ameetings, and the AGM. I liaise between our section and the Peg Neilon main club to the best of my ability: making our wishes and concerns known to the club's governing body, exchanging news and views with To: [email protected]; [email protected]; other sections, and bringing back their hopes, plans and expectations Subject: Cancellation of Funding for the Canadian Avalanche in writing up my boardmeeting- reports twice a year. Association Public Avalanche Bulletins Since this year's meeting and AGM will be in Vancouver on May 11 I have recently heard in the news that the B.C. Government is and 12 (a first by the way!), it would be nice, if some of our members planning to reduce or eliminate funding to theCanadian Avalanche could find the time to attend. Let me know, if you are interested and Association. This group publishes Public Avalanche Bulletins twice- we could do some carpooling or billeting, if needed: Gerta Smythe weekly during the winter months on the CAA WebSite: (250) 478-7369 or [email protected] http://www.avalanche.ca/ I am strongly opposed to any funding cuts to the Canadian Avalanche ACC HIRES NEW "DIRECTOR, CLUB PROGRAMS" Association. As a backcountry skier I rely on these avalanche bulletins to assist in determining whether snow travel is safe based on e are pleased to announce that Audrey Wheeler has been the current conditions. I am a member of the Vancouver Skier's Club appointed as the new "Director, Club Programs" in the ACC's W backcountry group. We do not head off on a trip until we have National Office, effective December 1. As such, she will be the discussed the current avalanche bulletin and any impact it might have National Office staff manager for the ACC's Publications, Services on our route selection or destination choice. and Access/Environment portfolios.As well, she will work closely The CAA provides a vital service to backcountry skiers, with Josee Larochelle to oversee the Club's membership function. snowboarders, snowshoers and snowmobilers. There are no other Audrey joins us from the YWCA in Banff where she is currently their sources for this specific information -- local weather information is "Groups Coordinator". She has a variety of work experience in both too generalised for use in determining avalanche conditions. The non-profit as well as for-profit organisations, and has a Bachelor of CAA's Public Avalanche Bulletin program is threatened with Arts degree from McGill University. extinction if funding is cut. B.C. residents and recreational tourists Audrey is a Rocky Mountain Section member, a resident of Canmore will die or be maimed in avalanches without this service. and a volunteer for various community events. Most recently, she I urge all of you to review the funding cuts by your respective organized the highly successful Rocky Mountain Section work party ministries or corporations. We need to ensure that stable funding is (under Peter Fuhrmann) that put in a marked trail to the Abbot Hut. provided for CAA's Avalanche Bulletin Service. Help prevent deaths She is active in the outdoors, has a special passion for the mountains, inthe BC backcountry! and is looking forward to her involvement with the Club and the Sincerely, mountaineering community. Peg Neilon 117 East 20th Ave. B.C. GOVERNMENT ISSUES : Vancouver, BC V5V 1L8 [email protected] 604-874-2407 AKWA PROVINCIAL PARK IN BRITISH COLUMBIA NOTE: The following is a breakdown of the funding provided by the The new Kakwa Provincial Park in British Columbia includes K BC Government in the past year for the CAA: the most northerly peaks over 10,000 feet in the Rockies and is the BC Ministry of the Attorney General $20,000 terminus of more than a million hectares of unroaded parkland Provincial Emergency Program stretching northwards from the Yellowhead Highway. Hon. Geoff Plant [email protected] It marks the northern end of the contiguous 600-kilometer stretch of BC Ministry of Water, Land & Air Protection ($10,000 in 2000- Rocky Mountain Parks, and is proposed for inclusion in the Canadian 2001) Hon. Joyce Murray Rocky Mountains World Heritage Site. Rivaling the National Parks to [email protected] the south, Kakwa has the added feature of being almost entirely Tel: (250) 387-1187 Fax: (250) 387-1356. undeveloped. BC Parks is seeking input to help create a long-range strategic BC Ministry of Forests $5000 Michael de Jong management plan for the park. For more information, visit their [email protected] Tel: website at: BC Assets and Land Corporation (Crown Corp BCAL)$2500 Bill http://www.elp.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/planning/mgmtplns/kakwa/kakwa.h Valentine Pres. & CEO (also Dep. Min. of Sustainable Resources) tm. Bill Valentine c/o [email protected] If you would have liked to have had input to planning the National Fax: (250) 952-6237 Parks a century ago, this is the equivalent opportunity today – the BCAL is owned by: BC Ministry of Sustainable Resource deadline is November 30th! Management Hon. Stan Hagen [email protected] -
Island Bushwhacker -6- Volume30 * Issue 1 BOOK REVIEW: Ellison was the first to reach the summit. One year later Strathcona HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE OF VANCOUVER Park was established. ANISLAND MOUNTAINS The next six chapters cover six of the most significant mountains on MISTHORN PRESS ISBN 0968015905 Vancouver Island. The Golden Hinde is the highest at 2200m, named after Sir Francis Drake's flagship, a mountain whose early climbing by Lindsay Elms history was only revealed through an interview with a Introduction by Sandy Briggs climbing/surveying pioneer as late as 1990. Elkhorn is the second BEYOND NOOTKA is the first comprehensive history of the highest at 2195 m named by the Alpine Club of Canada expedition mountain regions of Vancouver Island. It recounts the tales of the who in 1912 were the first to scale the mountain. Originally called early explorers, prospectors, surveyors and mountaineers as they the Strathcona Matterhorn because of its resemblance to the famous pushed into ever more remote regions of Vancouver Island. In the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland, it became known as Elkhorn introduction Sandy Briggs, a well known Vancouver Island because it towered above the Elk valley. Big Interior Mountain has mountaineer and adventurer writes: "BEYOND NOOTKA guides its both gold and copper interspersed throughout its granite and readers through a history not previously available in one volume and limestone folds. Lower down on the mountain is the beautiful Della reveals several surprises from interviews with the mountain Lake, source of Della Falls, the highest waterfall in Canada. pioneers." The grandest mountain is Mount Colonel Foster, a mountain whose The first two chapters cover the periods 1579 - 1892 and 1894 – 1910 1000 m high East Face offers the hardest climbing on Vancouver beginning with the possible sighting of Vancouver Island by the Island. The lofty summit of Mount Arrowsmith, which for many famous British navigator Sir Francis Drake to contact with the First years was thought to be the highest mountain on the island, stands out Nations People by the Spaniard Capt. Juan Perez off Estevan Point, above the towns of Nanaimo and Port Alberni, and can be seen from the landing by Capt. James Cook at Nootka Sound and the purchasing Vancouver. At the turn of the century the famous mountaineer of land by Capt. John Meares. Due to land claims on the west coast Edward Whymper (of the Matterhorn fame) was reported to have by both Spain and Britain, a war between the two almost broke out climbed to the summit of Arrowsmith. Finally toward the north end but was quelled by the signing of the Nootka Convention. Eventually of the island is Rugged Mountain in the Haihte Range. Although its the British government granted Vancouver Island to the Hudson's climbing history is relatively recent it had a story of a mystery Bay Company on the understanding that they establish settlements on summit box and bottle of champagne that piqued the curiosity of the island within five years. Thus began the age of exploration on climber Sandy Briggs. Vancouver Island. The last chapter covers the topographical surveyors who surveyed the Explorers such as Capt. Hamilton Moffat, Adam Horne, Joseph mountain regions of Vancouver Island between 1913 -1941. Their Pemberton, Dr. Robert Brown, John Buttle, Joe Drinkwater and Rev. achievements have been little acknowledged but the detailed maps for William Bolton traversed the island in various places, some covering which they spent years compiling information, have become taken for old native trade routes while others endured the challenges of granted. Little do we realize the effort that went into these maps, exploring completely untracked regions. maps that we are wise to always take into the mountains. The reports from the early explorers led the B.C. Provincial The stories in BEYOND NOOTKA are not all full of "pitons" and Government to propose that a park be established in the interior of "belays". The major themes of climbing have been covered – from the island. In 1910 an expedition was organized to visit the area struggles and disappointments to the sense of camaraderie, triumph around Buttle Lake and during the course of the expedition Crown and humour. From the long warm summer climbs to the harrowing Mountain was climbed. On this expedition twenty year old Myra accounts of trying to achieve first winter ascents, BEYOND NOOTKA brings to life the true emotional feel of a successful climb.
STUFFSACK:
THANK YOU from Claire Ebendinger EDITORS’ NOTICE from Larry Talarico Thank you to Judy and Viggo, Hinrich, Chris and Lynn for showing slides at the Volunteer party. We had a great show, taking us from Notice: All articles and correspondence for the Bushwhacker now go Turkey to Antarctica, and to the mountains of BC. And of course a to Larry Talarico at [email protected]. All photos go to big THANK YOU to all of you who give your time and energy to Viggo Holm 1991 Casa Marcia Crescent Victoria BC V8N-2X5. keep this club going and lead the members into mountaineering; Phone 477-8596. e-mail [email protected]. whatever your contribution is, it's well appreciated. Our next Bushwhacker submission deadline is Friday, May 17, 2002.
Island Bushwhacker -7- Volume30 * Issue 1 NOTICE TO MEMBERS RENTING CLUB Receive your Bushwhacker early and in colour, by EQUIPMENT e-mail! Help us save postage! Please send an e-mail Paul Macoun is now our Equipment Manager. to:
THE EVOLUTION OF SKIING: Over the years people have enjoyed learning to be better cable for more lateral stiffness. skiers”. As unashamed 3-pin loving leather boot wearing 6. Trade in your plastic boots for this years’ newest style skiers who have so far managed to avoid purchasing better that fits skills through advanced plastics, we found it eye opening to really high on your legs and provides maximum stiffness learn how we could overcome our Luddite tendencies on the and stability...... neon colours are always good. path to enlightenment and linked turns. 7. Trade in your wimpy cable bindings for something beefier that will hold those stiff plastic boots totally rigid However, we wonder if anyone has noticed the revolutionary on your new wider skis. thing that is happening here? A careful analysis reveals the 8. Trade in your rigid bindings for some that can also following progression of thought with its inevitable clamp the heel securely in place. conclusion: 9. Change your technique to reduce the amount of bending and flexing that your old gear forced you to do while 1. Trade in your skinny skis for a wider pair. Metal edges telemarking. are nice to have. 10. From your new, more upright position, work on a 2. Trade in your wider pair for something really wide with quicker transition between turns, with less deep bending sidecut. Keep those edges sharp! and more weight transfer and uplifting. Instead of trying to 3. Trade in your wider, sidecut pair for something really fat create one long ski as you turn, begin to keep your skis with the skinniest possible waist and widest available side-by-side instead of front-and-back. shovel and tail. Get those edges so sharp you can shave 11. Forget about even trying to make telemark turns; with them. concentrate instead on keeping your skis parallel at all 4. Trade in your leather boots for something stiffer made of times. plastic. 12. When the going gets tough, clamp those heels down 5. Trade in your three-pin bindings for something with a and go for it! Loose heels really don’t have any place in the repertoire of the serious skier.
Island Bushwhacker -8- Volume30 * Issue 1 To ACC Sections in British Columbia The ACC Vancouver Section is hosting the Spring National ACC AGM and Board Meeting! in the International Year of the Mountains! May 10, 11, 12, 2002, in Vancouver Come out and join us!
What's Happening The ACC Vancouver Section would like to invite you to join us for trips, a Reception, the AGM, and a BBQ/sldie show to be held in conjunction with the Spring 2002 ACC National Board Meeting and AGM in Vancouver. Whether you accompany your National Board Section Rep, or come on your own, please feel free to join us.
What You'll Get If you come out to Vancouver for the May 10 -12 weekend, here's what you'll get: • trips (skiing, hiking, kayaking) • a chance to meet ACC Section Reps and Executive from across the country; • get to know the ACC Vancouver Section better • attend the National AGM • BBQ & slide show (featuring new film by Dave Sarkany--Skiing the Homathko; Sailing Bute Inlet) (tix: $22)
VOLUNTEERS needed If anyone would like to volunteer to help out with the production of the weekend, please let me know ASAP, since I still need volunteers (Site coordination; food coordination; cleanup).
Weekend Events Reception: Friday, May 10, 6.30 p.m. - 10 p.m., at Dianne Miller’s place: 860 W. 13th Ave.; ph: 604-874-0789 Note: if you come out to the Reception, please contact Chris Bradley at: [email protected]; ph: 604-873-9419, to see what you can bring (food or wine). Includes slide show: Coast Range Smorgasbord
Annual General Meeting: 4 - 5 p.m. Location: Thea’s Lounge, Graduate Student Centre, UBC BBQ: 5 - 8 p.m. Location: Koerner’s Pub, and outside patio, Graduate Student Centre, UBC (Cost: $22) Slide show: 8 - 9 p.m. (Climbing, ski mountaineering, and kayaking in the Coast Range of BC) Location: Thea’s Lounge
Trips Schedule Pre-Board Meeting Trips: If you would like to go on an outing, please RSVP to the trip leader as soon as possible to let us know which trip you would like to go on, so we can plan for transportation, etc. Please contact Board Meeting Trip Coordinator Ian Bruce if you can’t reach the trip leader, or if you have questions that the trip leader can’t answer([email protected]; 604-215-3659).
Island Bushwhacker Volume30 * Issue 1 Spearhead Traverse (three day ski traverse in Whistler area; tenting): May 8, 9, 10 Leader: Eric Vezeau, Whistler Section. Email: [email protected]; Ph: 604-938-0044 Note: Eric is out of town from now (Feb. 21, until mid-March, skiing!). Please contact Ian Bruce in the interim, to sign up for the trip, and for information. [email protected]; ph: 604-215-3659
Diamond Head Ski (day trip): May 10 Note: depends on how much snow there is; will be confirmed with trip participants closer to the date. Leaders: Liz & Manrico Scremin Email: [email protected]; Ph: 604-921-2651
Hiking the Chief (day trip): May 10 (Note: Hike depends on amount of snow) Leader: TBD. Contact Ian Bruce in interim. Email: [email protected]; ph: 604-215-3659
Climbing at Squamish: Friday, May 10 Bring your climbing gear! We will probably be able to supply the ropes. Leader: Tami Knight. Email: [email protected]; Ph: 604-617-4691
Kayaking (day trip from English Bay): Friday, May 10 Come and explore a bit of BC’s coast. Leader: Fern Hietkamp. Email: [email protected]; Ph: 604-872-4290 Note: You will be renting kayaks from Ecomarine; cost of rental for a day is $38/half day; $48 full day.
Saturday Day Trip for ACCers from Out-of-Town, May 11 (will be back for AGM at 4 pm) A day trip for those faithfuls who accompanied Board members to Vancouver, or who are visiting (e.g. from Whistler, Vancouver Island, Okanagan, Prince George, or other Sections outside of BC). Leader: Chris Bradley Email: [email protected]; ph: 604-873-9419
Post Board Meeting Outings:
Stanley Park: Seawall & big trees walk; 3 hours, Sunday pm, May 12 Leader: Shirley Howdle. Email: [email protected]; Ph: 604-876-6258
Sunday Afternoon on Granville Island; 2 hours, Sunday pm, May 12 Drink coffee, stroll among the buskers, and watch the ships go by. Leader: TBD. Please contact Fern Hietkamp. [email protected]; ph: 604-872-4290
Lodging We are arranging billets for Board members; if you have friends you can stay with while in town, we would ask that you do so. If you do need a billet, please contact: Pam Krannitz, ph: 604-946-9942; email: [email protected].
Questions? and BBQ/Slide show Tix For questions on weekend activities, or to purchase BBQ/Slide Show tickets, please contact [email protected]; ph: 604-872-4290
Island Bushwhacker Volume30 * Issue 1