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Home , Buttle Lake, Kicking Horse River, MV Lady Rose, The Empress (Hotel)

1 The Best of & the

British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies, which stretch across the provincial border into Alberta, are extravagantly scenic and quietly sophisticated. The diversity of landscapes is astounding: You’ll travel from cactus-studded desert to soaring mountaintops and on to wilderness ocean beaches. You can visit traditional First Nations (Native Canadian) villages, thread through market stalls in the largest Chinese commu- nity outside of Asia, and cheer on cowboys at an old-fashioned rodeo. As for creature comforts, British Columbia and the Rockies are famed for their luxury hotels, rustic guest ranches, quiet inns, and B&Bs. And the food? With Alberta beef, Pacific salmon, and some of the world’s most fertile farm and orchard land, these two provinces champion excellent regional cuisine. Finally, there’s no better place to get outdoors and enjoy yourself. These areas are flush with ski resorts and golf courses, hiking is a near universal passion, and you’ll find no better spot on earth to try your hand at adventure sports like sea kayaking, trail riding, or scuba diving. This guide is chock-full of recommendations and tips to help you plan and enjoy your trip to western Canada; the following are the best of the best, places and experiences you won’t want to miss.

1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Wandering ’s West End: afternoon tea at the Empress is world- Vancouver is one of the most cosmo- renowned, a little stuffy, and very politan cities in the world, and wander- expensive; if that doesn’t sound like fun ing the streets, people-watching, and to you, we’ll show you other places sipping cappuccinos at street cafes can where tea is more reasonably priced and fill an entire weekend. Stroll up Robson a lot less formal. See chapter 6. Street with its busy boutique-shopping • Ferrying through the Gulf Islands: scene, turnCOPYRIGHTED down cafe-lined Denman The MATERIALGulf Islands, a huddle of cliff- Street, then stride into 405-hectare lined, forested islands between Vancou- (1,001-acre) , a gem of ver Island and the British Columbia green space with old-growth cedars, mainland, can be reached only via ferry. miles of walkways, and the city’s excel- Hop from island to island, staying at lent aquarium. See chapter 5. excellent country inns and B&Bs; pedal • Taking Tea in : Yeah, it’s a little the quiet farm roads on your bike, stop- corny, but it’s also fun—and delicious. ping to visit artists’ studios or to quaff a Tea, scones, clotted cream—who said pint in a cozy rural pub. The romantic the British don’t know good food? The getaway you’ve been dreaming of starts

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 1 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 2 and ends right here on these idyllic some golf, eat at excellent restaurants, islands. See chapter 7. and do it all again tomorrow. See chap- • Traveling the Inside Passage: The ter 13. 15-hour Inside Passage ferry cruise • Skiing the Canadian Rockies: You can aboard the MV Northern Adventure hit all three ski areas in Banff National takes you from ’s Port Park with a one-price ticket, using the Hardy along an otherwise inaccessible frequent shuttle buses to ferry you and coastline north to Prince Rupert, near your skis from resort to resort. The ski- the southern tip of the Alaska Panhan- ing is superlative, the scenery astound- dle. Orcas swim past the ferry, bald ing, and—best of all—you can stay at eagles soar overhead, and the dramatic Banff’s luxury hotels for a fraction of scenery—a narrow channel of water their astronomical summer rates. See between a series of mountain islands chapter 16. and the craggy mainland—is utterly • Riding Herd at a Guest Ranch: The spectacular. See chapter 11. edge of the Great Plains nudges up to • Wine Tasting in the Okanagan Valley: the face of the Canadian Rockies in The Okanagan Valley in central British Alberta, making this some of the most Columbia has some of the most arid fertile and beautiful ranching country climatic conditions in Canada, but with anywhere. For more than a century, irrigation, grape varietals like merlot, ranches have welcomed guests to their 1 cabernet sauvignon, and pinot blanc rustic lodges and cabins, offering trail flourish here. Vineyards line the edges rides, cattle drives, evening barbecues, of huge, glacier-dug lakes and clamber and barn dances that’ll keep you enter- up the steep desert-valley walls. Taste tained whether you’re a greenhorn or an delicious wines, go for a swim, play old hand. See p. 381.

2 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS

• Hiking the West Coast Trail: Hiking departure points, with outfitters ready the entire length of the rugged 69km to drop you into the briny world of the (43-mile) West Coast Trail, from Port wolf eel, yellow-edged cadlina, and Renfrew to on Vancouver giant Pacific octopus. See chapters 8 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS ACTIVE BEST THE CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH Island, takes 5 to 7 days, but it’s truly and 9. the hike of a lifetime. This wilderness • Kayaking : Paddle a coastline, edged with old-growth forest kayak for 4 or 5 days through the waters and lined with cliffs, is utterly spectacu- of Clayoquot Sound on Vancouver lar, and can be reached only on foot. If Island’s wilderness west coast, from the you’re not up for it, consider an 11km funky former fishing village of Tofino 3 (6 ⁄4-mile) day trip on the more easily to a natural hot-springs bath near an accessible stretch just south of Bam- ancient Native village. Along the way, field. See p. 182. you’ll see thousand-year-old trees and • Scuba Diving off Vancouver Island: glaciers, whales, and bald eagles. See According to no less an authority than p. 188. Jacques Cousteau, the waters off Van- • Salmon Fishing from Campbell couver Island offered some of the best River: Even though salmon fishing is diving in the world. And they still do. not what it once was, Campbell River is Nanaimo and Port Hardy are popular still the “Salmon-Fishing Capital of the

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 2 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM World.” Join a day trip with an outfitter and Myra Canyon, crossing 17 trestles 3 and fish the waters of Discovery Pas- and traversing two tunnels on its

sage. Get ready to hook the big one! 175km (109-mile) route. The entire BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN Even if your trophy salmon gets away circuit, which takes from 3 to 5 days, (or you’re required to release it), you’ll provides lots of challenging grades and see plenty of wildlife: bald eagles, seals, excellent scenery. See p. 299. even orcas and porpoises. See p. 207. • Heli-Skiing near Golden: Helicopters • Rafting the and Fraser Riv- lift adventurous skiers to the tops of the ers: This 3-day white-water extrava- Selkirk and that rise ganza flushes you from the slopes of the just west of Golden, accessing acres of glaciered Coast Range down through virgin powder far from the lift lines and shadowy canyons to the roiling waters crowds of traditional ski resorts. CMH of the mighty , second in Heli-Skiing (& 800/661-0252) offers North America only to the Columbia a variety of holidays, most based out of River in power and size. A number of its private high-country lodges and outfitters in Williams Lake offer river reached only by helicopter. See p. 322. options ranging from half-day thrill • Cross-Country Skiing at Canmore: rides to multiday trips with catered The 1988 Olympic cross-country ski- camping. See p. 279. ing events were held at Canmore, on • Canoeing Bowron Lakes Provincial the edge of Banff National Park. The Park: Every summer, canoeists and routes at the Canmore Nordic Centre 1 kayakers set out to navigate a perfect (& 403/678-2400) are now open to

120km (75-mile) circle of six alpine the public and offer 70km (43 miles) of THE BEST NATURE & WILDLIFEVIEWING lakes, with minimal portages in world-class skiing. See p. 379. between. There are no roads or other • Lodge-to-Lodge Trail Riding in Banff signs of civilization beyond the launch National Park: See the park’s back- point, except some well-placed cabins, country without getting blisters on campsites, and shelters. The full circuit your feet. Instead, get saddle-sore as you is a 7-day trip, but the memories will ride horseback on a 3-day excursion, last a lifetime. See p. 284. spending the nights in remote but com- • Mountain Biking the Kettle Valley Rail fortable mountain lodges. Warner Trail: This rails-to-trails hiking and Guiding and Outfitting (& 800/661- biking route travels from Okanagan 8352) provides all meals and lodging, Lake up and over Okanagan Mountain plus oats for Silver. See p. 385.

3 THE BEST NATURE & WILDLIFEVIEWING

• Tide Pools at Botanical Beach near Port • Bald Eagles near Victoria: Just a few Renfrew: Waves have eroded potholes in miles north of Victoria is one of the the thrust of sandstone that juts into the world’s best bald eagle–spotting sites: Pacific at Botanical Beach, which remain Goldstream Provincial Park. Recent water-filled when the waves ebb. Alive counts put the number of eagles winter- with starfish, sea anemones, hermit crabs, ing here at around 4,000. (Jan is the and hundreds of other sea creatures, these best month for viewing, though there potholes are some of the best places on are eagles here year-round.) See p. 155. Vancouver Island to explore the rich • Gray Whales at Pacific Rim National intertidal zone. See p. 152. Park: Few sights in nature match

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 3 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 4 observing whales in the wild. March is bia River flows through a valley filled the prime viewing time, as the whales with fluvial lakes, marshes, and migrate north from their winter home streams—perfect habitat for hundreds off Mexico. During March, both Tofino of species, including moose and coy- and Ucluelet celebrate the Pacific Rim otes. Protected as a wildlife refuge, the Whale Festival; outfitters offer whale- wetlands are on the migratory flyway watching trips out onto the Pacific. See that links Central America to the Arc- chapter 8. tic; in spring and fall, the waterways fill • Orcas at : From whale- with thousands of birds—over 270 dif- watching boats out of Telegraph Cove ferent species. Outfitters in Golden or Port McNeill, watch orcas (killer operate float trips through the wet- whales) as they glide through the John- lands. See p. 323. stone Strait in search of salmon, and • Elk in Banff National Park: You won’t rub their tummies on the pebbly need to mount an expedition to sight beaches at Vancouver Island’s Robson elk in Banff: They graze in the city Bight. See p. 216. parks and on people’s front lawns. To • Spawning Salmon at Adams River: see these animals in their own habitat, Every October, the Adams River fills take the Fenlands Trail just west of with salmon, returning to their home Banff to Vermillion Lakes, another water to spawn and die. While each favorite grazing area. See chapter 16. 1 autumn produces a large run of salmon, • Black Bears in Waterton Lakes every fourth year (the next is 2010), an National Park: There are black bears estimated 1.5 to 2 million sockeye throughout the Canadian west, but salmon struggle upstream to spawn in chances are good you’ll spot a bear or the Adams River near Squilax. Roderick two along the entry road to Waterton Haig-Brown Provincial Park has view- Lakes National Park, where the open ing platforms and interpretive pro- grasslands of the prairies directly abut grams. See p. 286. the sheer faces of the Rocky Mountains. • Songbirds and Waterfowl at the (Remember, bears were originally prai- Wetlands: Between rie animals.) See p. 417. Golden and Windermere, the Colum-

4 THE BEST FAMILYVACATION EXPERIENCES

• The Beaches near Parksville and Qua- marine communities along the other-

THE BEST FAMILYVACATION EXPERIENCES FAMILYVACATION BEST THE licum CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH Beach: The sandy beaches near wise inaccessible Alberni Inlet, the lon- these towns warm in the summer sun, gest fjord on Vancouver Island’s rugged then heat the waters of Georgia Strait west coast. Along the way, you may spot when the tides return. Some of the eagles, bears, and porpoises. The MV warmest ocean waters in the Pacific Lady Rose is large enough to be stable, Northwest are here, making for good yet small enough to make this daylong swimming and family vacations. See journey from to Bamfield chapter 8. and back seem like a real adventure. See • The MV Lady Rose (& 800/663- p. 181. 7192): This packet steamer delivers • The Okanagan Lakes: Sunny weather, mail and merchandise to isolated sandy lake beaches, and miles of clean,

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 4 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM clear water: If this sounds like the ideal from the 1880s. Take the kids and give 5 family vacation, then head to the lake- them a lesson in history and volunteer-

filled Okanagan Valley. Penticton and ism! See p. 344. BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN Kelowna have dozens of family-friendly • The Kicking Horse River: One of the hotels, watersports rentals, and lakeside best white-water rafting trips in the parks and beaches. Mom and Dad can Rockies is on the Kicking Horse River enjoy the golf and wineries as well. See near Golden. While it’s the treacherous chapter 13. Class IV rapids that give the river its • Fort Steele Heritage Town (& 250/ fame, there are also stretches gentle 426-7352): Once a 19th-century fron- enough for the entire family. Better yet, tier boomtown turned ghost town, Fort most outfitters run simultaneous trips Steele again bustles with life. Now a on both sections of the river, so part of provincial heritage site, the town has your brood can run the rapids while the been rebuilt, other historic structures other enjoys a leisurely float through have been moved in, and daily activities lovely Rocky Mountain scenery. See with living-history actors give this town p. 323. a real feel of the Old West. See p. 327. • West Edmonton Mall (& 800/661- • Fort Calgary Historic Park (& 403/ 8890): Okay, so it’s a mall. But what a 290-1875): This reconstruction of the mall! Within its 483,000 sq. m (5.2 Mountie fort on the banks of the Bow million sq. ft.) are 800 stores and a River—and the genesis for the city of mammoth entertainment center that 1 Calgary—has always been interesting, contains a complete amusement park,

as volunteers have been in the process of roller coaster, bungee-jumping plat- NATIVE CANADIAN CULTURE & HISTORY rebuilding the original fort. In the last form, and lake-size swimming pool couple years, critical mass has been with real sand beaches and rolling reached and new/old Fort Calgary is waves. You can also ice-skate, watch really taking shape: It’s gone from a performing dolphins, ride a submarine, good idea to a great attraction. But attend movies at 19 theaters—oh, and what’s really cool is that the labor has get your shopping done, too. See been volunteer and that all the work p. 360. was done using tools and techniques

5 NATIVE CANADIAN CULTURE & HISTORY

• Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre (Dun- & 250/285-3733): To the Native peo- can; & 877/746-8119): North of Vic- ples along the Northwest coast, the toria, this facility contains a theater, potlatch was one of the most important carving shed, ceremonial clan house, ceremonies, involving the reenactment restaurant, and art gallery, all dedicated of clan myths and ritual gift giving. to preserving traditional his- When Canadian officials banned the tory and culture. Try to visit when the potlatch in the 1920s, the centuries-old tribe is preparing a traditional salmon costumes, masks, and artifacts of the bake. See p. 158. Kwagiulth tribe were confiscated and • Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre (for- sent to museums in eastern Canada and merly the Kwakiutl Museum and England. When the items were repatri- Cultural Center, Quadra Island; ated in the early 1990s, the tribe built this handsome museum to showcase

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 5 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 6 this incredible collection of Native art. • ’Ksan Historical Village (; See p. 210. & 877/842-5518): The Gitxsan peo- • Alert Bay (off Vancouver Island): One ple have lived for millennia at the con- of the best-preserved and still vibrant fluence of the and Bulkley Native villages in western Canada, Alert rivers, hunting and spearing salmon Bay is a short ferry ride from northern from the waters. On the site of an Vancouver Island. Totem poles face the ancient village near present-day Hazel- waters, and cedar-pole longhouses are ton, the Gitxsan have built a pre-Con- painted with traditional images and tact replica village, complete with symbols. The U’Mista Cultural Centre longhouses and totem poles. No ordi- (& 250/974-5403) contains a collec- nary tourist gimmick, the village houses tion of carved masks, baskets, and pot- a 4-year carving school, Native-art gift latch ceremonial objects. See p. 218. shop, traditional-dance performance • Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve space, artists’ studios, restaurant, and (Queen Islands): A UNESCO visitor center. See p. 263. World Heritage Site and a Canadian • Secwepemc Museum & Heritage Park national park, this is the ancient home- (Kamloops; & 250/828-9801): This land of the Haida people. Located on the heritage preserve contains a Native Sec- storm-lashed Queen Charlottes, it isn’t wepemc village archaeological site from easy or cheap to get to: You’ll need to 2,400 years ago, plus re-creations of vil- 1 kayak, sail, or fly in on a floatplane. But lage structures from five different eras. once here, you’ll get to visit the prehis- It’s not all just history here: The Shus- toric village of , abandoned wap, as the Secwepemc are now called, hundreds of years ago and still shadowed also perform traditional songs and by decaying totem poles. See p. 258. dances and sell art objects. See p. 286.

6 THE BEST MUSEUMS & HISTORIC SITES

• Museum of Anthropology (Vancou- • The Museum at Campbell River ver; & 604/822-5087): Built to resem- (Campbell River; & 250/287-3103): ble a traditional longhouse, this splendid The highlight of this regional museum museum on the University of British is a multimedia presentation that retells Columbia campus contains one of the a First Nations myth using carved cere- finest collections of Northwest Native monial masks. Afterward, explore the art in the world. Step around back to extensive collection of contemporary

THE BEST MUSEUMS & HISTORIC SITES HISTORIC & MUSEUMS BEST THE visit CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH two traditional longhouses. See aboriginal carving, then visit a fur trap- p. 84. per’s cabin and see tools from a pioneer- • Royal British Columbia Museum era sawmill. See p. 206. (Victoria; & 888/447-7977): The • North Pacific Historic Fishing Village human and natural history of coastal (Port Edward; & 250/628-3538): British Columbia is the focus of this Located on the waters of Inverness excellent museum. Visit a frontier main Passage, this isolated salmon cannery street, view lifelike dioramas of coastal built an entire working community of ecosystems, and gaze at ancient artifacts 1,200 people—complete with homes, of the First Nations peoples. Outside, churches, and stores—on boardwalks gaze upward at the impressive collection and piers. Now a national historic site, of totem poles. See p. 119. the mothballed factory is open for

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 6 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM tours, and you can even spend a night 1860s—the gold-rush town of Barker- 7 at the old hotel. See p. 251. ville is one of the best-preserved ghost

• Fort St. James National Historic Site towns in Canada. Now a provincial BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN (Vanderhoof; & 250/996-7191): In park, it comes to life in summer, when summer, the rebuilt log Fort St. James costumed “townspeople” go about trading post hums with activity, as their frontier way of life amid a com- actors play the roles of explorers, trad- pletely restored late-Victorian pioneer ers, and craftspeople. This open-air town. See p. 283. museum of frontier life is a replica of • Glenbow Museum (Calgary; & 403/ the first non-Native structure in British 268-4100): One of Canada’s finest Columbia, constructed in 1806. See museums, the Glenbow has fascinating p. 266. displays on the Native and settlement • Barkerville (83km/52 miles east of history of the Canadian Great Plains, ; & 250/994-3332): Once plus changing art shows and thematic the largest city west of Chicago and exhibitions. The gift shop is a good north of San Francisco—about 100,000 place to find local crafts. See p. 344. people passed through during the

7 THE MOST SCENIC VIEWS 1 • Vancouver from Cloud Nine (& 604/ • Sulphur Mountain in Banff National 662-8328): Situated on the top floor of Park: Ride the gondola up to the top of THE MOST SCENIC VIEWS one of the tallest hotels in Vancouver, Sulphur Mountain for tremendous towering 42 floors above the city, the views of the cliff-faced mountains that rotating restaurant/lounge Cloud Nine frame Banff. Hike the ridge-top trails, has 360-degree views that go on forever. have lunch in the coffee shop, or fill See p. 100. your camera’s memory chip with shots • The Canadian Rockies from Eagle’s of ground squirrels and glaciers. See Eye Restaurant (& 250/344-8626): p. 387. The Kicking Horse Mountain Resort • Moraine Lake in Banff National Park: isn’t just one of the newest skiing areas in Ten snow-clad peaks towering more the Canadian Rockies. This exciting than 3,000m (9,843 ft.) rear up dra- development also boasts the highest-ele- matically behind this tiny, eerily green vation restaurant in all of Canada. The lake. Rent a canoe and paddle to the Eagle’s Eye sits at the top of the slopes, mountains’ bases. See p. 396. 2,410m (7,907 ft.) above sea level. • Waterton Lakes from the Garden Ascend the gondola to find eye-popping Court Restaurant at the Prince of views of high-flying glaciered crags— Wales Hotel (& 403/859-2231): and excellent cuisine. See p. 325. There are lots of great views of the • Calgary Tower (& 403/266-7171): At Canadian Rockies, but perhaps the most 191m (627 ft.), this is one landmark singular is the view from the Prince of that you’ll want to get on top of. From Wales Hotel, high above Waterton the windows of this revolving watch- Lake. With blue-green water stretching tower, you’ll see the face of the Rocky back between a series of rugged snow- Mountains to the west and the endless capped peaks, the view is at once inti- prairies to the east. If you like the view, mate and primeval. See p. 420. stay for dinner or a drink. See p. 342.

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 7 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 8 8 THE MOST DRAMATIC DRIVES

• The Sea-to-Sky Highway: Officially • Williams Lake to Bella Coola: Start at Hwy. 99, this drive is a lesson in geology. the ranching town of Williams Lake, Starting in West Vancouver, the amazing and turn your car west toward the route begins at sea level at looming Coast Mountains. Hwy. 20 and the Squamish Cliffs—sheer rock crosses the arid Fraser River plateau, faces rising hundreds of feet—then up a famed for its traditional cattle ranches, narrowing fjord, climbing up to Whis- until reaching the high country near tler, near the crest of the rugged, glacier- Anaheim Lake. After edging through clad Coast Mountains. Continue over 1,500m (4,921-ft.) Heckman Pass, the the mountains and drop onto Lillooet. route descends what the locals simply Here, on the dry side of the mountains, call “The Hill”: a 32km (20-mile) is an arid plateau trenched by the rush- stretch of road that drops from the pass ing Fraser River. See p. 228. to sea level with gradients of 18%. The • The Sunshine Coast: Hwy. 101 fol- road terminates at Bella Coola on the lows the mainland British Columbia Pacific, where summer-only ferries coast from West Vancouver, crossing depart for Port Hardy on northern fjords and inlets twice on ferries on its Vancouver Island. See p. 280. way to Powell River. On the east side • The Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93 1 rise the soaring peaks of the Coast through Banff and Jasper national Mountains, and to the west lap the parks): This is one of the world’s grand- waters of the Georgia Strait, with the est mountain drives. On a road trip green bulk of Vancouver Island rising in back to the ice ages, you’ll climb past the middle distance. From Powell River, glacier-notched peaks to the Columbia you can cross over to Vancouver Island Icefields, a sprawling cap of snow, ice, on the BC Ferries service to . and glacier at the very crest of the Rock- See chapter 8. ies. See p. 399.

9 THE BEST WALKS & RAMBLES THE BEST WALKS & RAMBLES& WALKS BEST THE CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH • Vancouver’s Stanley Park Seawall: • Strathcona Provincial Park: Buttle Stroll, jog, run, blade, bike, skate, Lake, which lies at the center of Strath- ride—whatever your favorite mode of cona Provincial Park, is the hub of sev- transport is, use it, but by all means get eral hiking trails that climb through out here and explore this wonderful old-growth forests to misty waterfalls park. See p. 89. and alpine meadows. Return to the • Victoria’s Inner Harbour: Watch the trailhead, doff your hiking shorts, and boats and aquatic wildlife come and go skinny-dip in gem-blue Buttle Lake. while walking along a pathway that See p. 212. winds past manicured gardens. The best • Johnston Canyon in Banff National stretch runs south from the Inner Har- Park: Just 24km (15 miles) west of bour near the Parliament Buildings, Banff, Johnston Creek cuts a deep, very past the Royal London Wax Museum. narrow canyon through limestone cliffs. See chapter 6. The trail winds through tunnels, passes

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 8 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM waterfalls, edges by shaded rock faces, tea and scones—each served up from a 9 and crosses the chasm on footbridges wood-fired stove—and gaze up at the

before reaching a series of iridescent rumpled face of the glacier. See p. 396. BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN pools, formed by springs that bubble up • Maligne Canyon in Jasper National through highly colored rock. See p. 384. Park: As the Maligne River cascades • Plain of Six Glaciers Trail in Banff from its high mountain valley to its National Park: From Chateau Lake appointment with the , Louise, a trail rambles along the edge of it carves a narrow, deep chasm in the emerald-green Lake Louise, then climbs underlying limestone. Spanned by six up to the base of Victoria Glacier. At a footbridges, the canyon is laced with rustic teahouse, you can order a cup of trails and interpretive sites. See p. 401.

10 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS

• The Fairmont (Van- a rural island, but don’t let the isolation couver; & 800/441-1414): Built by fool you. New and dazzling, the resort the on the has beautifully furnished rooms, villas, site of two previous Hotel Vancouvers, and cottages, all overlooking a peaceful this landmark opened in 1929. The harbor. The spa, restaurant, and facili- château-style exterior, the lobby, and ties are absolutely first class. See p. 149. 1 even the guest rooms—now thoroughly • The Wickaninnish Inn (Tofino;

restored—are built in a style and on a & 800/333-4604): Standing stalwart THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS scale reminiscent of the great European in the forest above the sands of Chester- railway hotels. See p. 68. man Beach, this log, stone, and glass • The Fairmont Empress (Victoria; structure boasts incredible views over & 800/441-1414): Architect Francis the Pacific and extremely comfortable Rattenbury’s masterpiece, the Empress luxury-level guest rooms. The dining has charmed princes (and their prin- room is equally superlative. See p. 192. cesses), potentates, and movie moguls • Four Seasons Resort Whistler (Whis- since 1908. If there’s one hotel in Can- tler; & 888/935-2460 or 604/935-3400): ada that represents a vision of bygone This grand—even monumental—hotel graciousness and class, this is it. See is the classiest place to stay in Whistler, p. 109. which is saying something. This is a • Hastings House Country House hotel with many moods, from the Wag- Hotel (Salt Spring Island; & 800/661- nerian scale of the stone-lined lobby to 9255): This farm matured into a coun- the precise gentility of the guest rooms try manor and was then converted into to the faint and welcome silliness of the a luxury inn. The manor house is now tiled and backlit stone fixtures of the an acclaimed restaurant; the barn and restaurant. This is a hotel that’s not farmhouse have been remade into opu- afraid to make big statements. See p. 238. lent suites. You might feel like you’ve • Grand Okanagan Lakefront Resort been transported to an idealized Eng- (Kelowna; & 800/465-4651): You lish estate, if it weren’t for those won- can’t get much closer to derful views of the Pacific. See p. 142. than this marina-fronted hotel, and you • Poets Cove Resort and Spa (South won’t find more luxurious lodgings Pender Island; & 888/512-7638): either, particularly the new Royal Pri- Poets Cove may be on a remote bay on vate Villas. In their own building, these

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 9 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 10 sumptuous guest units are essentially dramatic, it steps nine stories down a luxury apartments, with access to a steep mountain slope. A fantastic mar- private rooftop infinity pool. See ble lobby, great restaurant, and hand- p. 308. somely appointed bedrooms complete • The Fairmont Palliser (Calgary; & 800/ the package. See p. 391. 441-1414): Calgary’s landmark historic • The Fairmont hotel, the Palliser is permeated with (Lake Louise; & 800/441-1414): First good breeding and high style. The mag- of all, there’s the view: Across a tiny nificent lobby looks like an Edwardian gem-green lake rise massive cliffs, gentlemen’s club, and the guest rooms shrouded in glacial ice. And then there’s are large and luxurious. See p. 346. the hotel: Part hunting lodge, part pal- • Fairmont (Edmon- ace, the Chateau is its own community, ton; & 800/441-1414): When the with sumptuous boutiques, sports- Canadian Pacific bought and refur- rental facilities, nine dining areas, and bished this landmark hotel, all of the beautifully furnished guest rooms. See charming period details were preserved, p. 397. and the inner workings were modern- • Post Hotel (Lake Louise; & 800/661- ized and brought up to snuff. The result 1586): Quietly gracious hospitality in a is an elegant but still-friendly small dramatic Canadian Rockies setting is hotel. From the tuxedoed bellman to the hallmark of this luxurious lodge. 1 the gargoyles on the walls, this is a real The original log-built dining room and class act. See p. 362. bar remain from the 1940s, now joined • Rimrock Resort Hotel (Banff; & 800/ by a new hotel wing with extremely 661-1587): Banff is known for its scen- comfortable and beautifully furnished ery and its high prices; this is one of the rooms. The “F” suites are the most few luxury hotels whose rates are actu- desirable. See p. 398. ally justified. New and architecturally

11 THE BEST B&BS & COUNTRY INNS

• West End Guest House (Vancouver; Farmhouse is an 1894 farmstead with a & 604/681-2889): This 1906 heritage newly built guesthouse. The welcome home is filled with an impressive collec- you’ll get here is as engaging and genu-

THE BEST B&BS & COUNTRY INNS COUNTRY & B&BS BEST THE tion CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH of Victorian antiques. Fresh-baked ine as you’ll ever receive, and the break- brownies accompany evening turn- fasts are works of art. See p. 143. down service, and the staff is thor- • Galiano Oceanfront Inn & Spa oughly professional. See p. 72. (Galiano Island; & 877/530-3939): • Andersen House Bed & Breakfast Combine a magical island view, a won- (Victoria; & 250/388-4565): Your derfully inventive restaurant, a full-ser- hosts outfit their venerable 1891 Queen vice spa, plus luxury-level rooms, and Anne home in only the latest decor, you get this very handsome inn. from raku sculptures to carved-wood Flanked by gardens and filled with African masks. Their taste is impecca- major Northwest Native art, the ble—the old place looks great. See Galiano Inn wears its high style very p. 110. comfortably. See p. 146. • Old Farmhouse B&B (Salt Spring • Oceanwood Country Inn (Mayne Island; & 250/537-4113): The Old Island; & 250/539-5074): Overlooking

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 1010 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM Navy Channel, this inn offers top-notch fireplace, decks to observe the pool and 11 lodgings and fine dining in one of the garden, and gracious hosts who exem-

most extravagantly scenic locations on plify Swiss hospitality. Swimming, BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN the West Coast. Admirably, the inn boating, fishing—it’s all here, even a maintains an array of prices ranging wedding chapel. See p. 317. from affordable and cozy garden-view • Vagabond Lodge (Golden; & 866/ rooms to luxury-level suites that open 944-2622): Right at the base of the lifts onto hot-tub decks and hundred-mile at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, this views. See p. 148. log lodge is more of a small boutique • Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat & hotel, except with lots of Western-style Guesthouse (Duncan; & 250/746- friendliness. With log-built furniture 4637): This rambling farmhouse B&B and an enormous stone fireplace, the sits amid some of the most bountiful Vagabond looks right out of a North farmland in Canada—so start cooking. Woods fantasy, except for the fastidious This unusual operation is part culinary level of comfort in the guest rooms. See school, part country inn, and part pil- p. 325. grimage site for Slow Food–movement • Union Bank Inn (Edmonton; & 780/ devotees. Come here for the comfy 423-3600): Not quite a B&B, not guest rooms, and stay for the terroir. See quite a hotel, the absolutely charming p. 160. Union Bank Inn is something in & • Urban Villa (Kelowna; 866/961- between. Right downtown, this marble- 1 2220): This swank guesthouse is just a faced 1910 bank sat vacant for many

stroll from Lake Okanagan beaches and years before being redeveloped as an inn THE BEST RUSTIC ACCOMMODATIONS minutes from the crush of downtown and restaurant. Each bedroom was indi- Kelowna. You get the hands-on atten- vidually decorated by one of Edmon- tiveness of a B&B but without the fuss. ton’s top interior designers. See p. 365. Plus, the decor and fittings match those • Thea’s House (Banff; & 403/762- of a top-end hotel. See p. 309. 2499): A vision of stone, pine, and • Mulvehill Creek Wilderness Inn and antique carpets, Thea’s is a newly built Bed & Breakfast (Revelstoke; & 877/ bed-and-breakfast just 5 minutes from 837-8649): Equidistant to a waterfall downtown Banff. “Elegant Alpine” is and Arrow Lake, this remote inn in the Thea’s style, a cross between a log lodge forest has everything going for it: nicely and a vision out of Architectural Digest. decorated rooms with locally made Perfect for a romantic getaway. See pine furniture, a beautiful lounge with p. 391.

12 THE BEST RUSTIC ACCOMMODATIONS: LODGES, WILDERNESS RETREATS & LOGCABIN RESORTS

• Tigh-Na-Mara Resort Hotel (Parks- • Strathcona Park Lodge (Strathcona ville; & 800/663-7373): Comfortably Provincial Park; & 250/286-3122): A rustic log cabins in a forest at beach’s summer camp for the whole family is edge: Tigh-Na-Mara has been welcom- what you’ll find at Strathcona Park ing families for decades, and the new Lodge, with rustic lakeside cabins and luxury log suites are just right for guided activities that range from sea romantic getaways. See p. 179.

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 1111 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 12 kayaking and fishing to rock climbing • Tekarra Lodge (Jasper; & 888/962- and mountaineering. See p. 214. 2522): Quaint little cabins ring a central • Rockwater Secret Cove Resort (Half lodge building at this well-loved getaway. Moon Bay; & 877/296-4593): Stroll The cabins are atmospherically rustic; the boardwalk above the waters of the best of all, you’re a mile distant from to your platform tent— Jasper’s busy town center. See p. 408. filled with all the luxuries of a high-end • Becker’s Chalets (Jasper; & 780/852- hotel room. “Glamour Camping” is all 3779): These very attractive new cabins the vogue, and it’s hard to imagine a are set right along the Athabasca River. more scenic locale to rediscover tenting Some units are as large as houses. Jasper’s joys, particularly from the resort’s out- best restaurant is here as well. See p. 407. door “spa without walls.” See p. 227. • Overlander Mountain Lodge (Jasper • Buffalo Mountain Lodge (Banff; East; & 877/866-2330): Forget the & 800/661-1367): Rustic charm wildly overpriced rooms in Jasper 1 meets upscale comfort on the Tunnel Townsite and stay here, just .5km ( ⁄3 Mountain bluff behind Banff. Buffalo mile) outside the park gates. Lovely new Mountain Lodge is centered on a large, cabins plus a handsome older lodge handsome log lodge building with an with a good restaurant make this an intimate fireplace-dominated bar and in-the-know favorite. See p. 409. elegant dining room. The woodsy, holi- • The Emerald Lake Lodge (Yoho & 1 day-card-perfect atmosphere extends to National Park; 800/663-6336): the guest rooms, with fireplaces, slate- Location, location, location: Sumptuous tiled bathrooms, and balconies over- lakeside cabins at the base of the Conti- looking the forests. Definitely worth nental Divide make this a longtime the splurge. See p. 390. favorite family-vacation spot. See p. 415.

13 THE BEST NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE

See “A Taste of British Columbia & the restaurant in the Coast Hotel, but you’d Canadian Rockies,” in chapter 2, for more be wrong. The creative chef serves up information on the style of cuisine unique the freshest seafood, the presentation is to this region. beautiful, and the dishes are outstand- • West (Vancouver; & 604/738-8938): ing. See p. 113. In a sleek, jewel-box dining room, abso- • Sooke Harbour House (Sooke; lutely fabulous West starts with classic & 250/642-3421): This small country THE BEST NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE REGIONAL NORTHWEST BEST THE techniques CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH and the finest Pacific sea- inn has one of the most noted restau- food, fish, and other regional ingredi- rants in all of Canada. Fresh regional ents to provide an up-to-the-second cuisine is the specialty, with an empha- dining experience. Book the “chef’s sis on local seafood. Views over the table” in the kitchen to watch the chefs to Washington’s at work. See p. 79. mighty Olympic Mountains are spec- • The Blue Crab Bar and Grill (Victo- tacular, nearly matching the wine list. ria; & 250/480-1999): You might See p. 153. think that the food would have a hard • Masthead Restaurant (Cowichan Bay; time competing with the view at this & 250/748-3714): Sitting above a

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 1212 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM busy marina, with islands and moun- • All Seasons Café (Nelson; & 250/352- 13 tains rising in the distance, the Mast- 0101): Innovative preparations and head’s views are mesmerizing and its rich, hearty flavors are the hallmarks of BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE ROCKIES CANADIAN trappings—the century-old clapboard the cuisine at this superlative restaurant structure was built as a fine hotel—are in a downtown Nelson heritage home. charming. But the food here is abso- Food this stylish and up-to-date would lutely up-to-date, an exploration of pass muster anywhere; to find it in Vancouver Island’s rich terroir. See Nelson is astonishing. See p. 333. p. 162. • Belvedere (Calgary; & 403/265-9595): • Shelter (Tofino; & 250/725-3353): The moody, noirish atmosphere of this Fine dining in Tofino has always been elegant fine-dining room lights up synonymous with the Pointe, the won- when the food arrives: Easily one of derful restaurant at the Wickaninnish western Canada’s top restaurants, Inn. But the tourist boom in Tofino Belvedere offers an inventive dining created an explosion of fantastic new experience focused on Pan-Canadian places in this remote corner of Vancou- ingredients and impeccable French-by- ver Island. Check out Shelter for its way-of-Tokyo technique. See p. 350. youthful vigor and absolutely fresh and • River Café (Calgary; & 403/261- authentic flavors—everything is right 7670): You’ll walk through a quiet, off the boat or just off the land. See tree-filled park on an island in the Bow p. 193. River to reach this bustling place. At the 1 • Araxi Restaurant & Bar (Whistler; restaurant’s center, an immense wood- & 604/932-4540): A longtime Whis- fired oven and grill produce smoky THE BEST NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE tler favorite that just keeps on getting grilled meats and vegetables, all organi- better. Chef James Walt is capable of cally grown and freshly harvested. On gastronomic alchemy, producing dishes warm evenings, picnickers loll in the that are inventive yet tradition-based grassy shade. See p. 351. and full of flavor. Choose one of the • Hardware Grill (Edmonton; & 780/ tasting menus; then face the wondrous 423-0969): Although located in one of stupefaction by selecting something Edmonton’s first hardware stores, there’s delicious from the 12,000-bottle wine nothing antique about the food at the inventory. See p. 243. Hardware Grill. A very broad selection • Bearfoot Bistro (Whistler; & 604/ of inventive appetizers makes it fun to 932-3433): The food scene in Whistler snack your way through dinner. See is extremely dynamic, as you’d expect at p. 366. North America’s top ski resort and • Maple Leaf Grille & Spirits (Banff; recent Olympic host. To get noticed & 403/760-7680): In a soaring, two- amid Whistler’s many restaurants story dining room that’s at once rustic requires something special—and Bear- and classy, the Maple Leaf serves up foot Bistro’s got it. With very inventive Banff’s most sophisticated mountain food served in three- or five-course cuisine. The menu focuses on regional meals, this is like having a cutting-edge ingredients, fresh preparations, and a Iron Chef in charge of your dinner. See friendly unstuffy welcome that lets you p. 243. relax into having a great time with inventive, delicious food. See p. 394.

004_591536-ch01.indd4_591536-ch01.indd 1313 44/28/10/28/10 110:520:52 AMAM 14 14 THE BEST FESTIVALS & SPECIAL EVENTS

• Vancouver’s Three F Festivals: The sturdy housewives, fashion-conscious Folk, the Fringe, and the Film are Eurotrash, and rich celebrities all mixed the three F’s in question. The Folk Fest together, the event has the feel of a (p. 33) brings folk and world-beat weird and benevolent ritual. See p. 141. music to a waterfront stage in Jericho • World Championship Bathtub Race Park. The setting is gorgeous, the music (Nanaimo): Imagine guiding a claw- great, and the crowd something else. foot tub across the 58km (36-mile) Far more urban is the Fringe (604/637- Georgia Strait from Nanaimo to Van- 6380; www.vancouverfringe.com), a couver: That’s how this hilarious and festival of new and original plays that goofily competitive boat race began. takes place in the arty Commercial Nowadays, dozens of tubbers attempt Drive area. The plays are wonderfully the crossing as part of July’s weeklong inventive; better yet, they’re short and Marine Festival, with a street fair, cheap. In October, the films of the parade, and ritual boat burning and world come to the Vancouver Interna- fireworks display. See p. 169. tional Film Festival (www.viff.org). • Calgary Stampede: In all of North Serious film buffs buy a pass and see all America, there’s nothing like the Cal- 500 flicks (or as many as they can gary Stampede. Of course it’s the 1 before their eyeballs fall out). world’s largest rodeo, but it’s also a • Celebration of Light (Vancouver): series of concerts, an art show, an open- This 3-night fireworks extravaganza air casino, a carnival, a street dance— takes place over English Bay in Vancou- you name it, it’s undoubtedly going on ver. Three of the world’s leading fire- somewhere here. In July, all of Calgary works manufacturers are invited to is a party—and you’re invited. See represent their countries in competition p. 343. against one another, setting their best • Edmonton International Fringe The- displays to music. On the fourth night, atre Festival (Edmonton): Every all three companies launch their finales. August, Edmonton plays host to North See p. 33. America’s largest fringe theater festival, • Market in the Park (Salt Spring an 11-day spectacular offering theatrics, Island): The little village of Ganges fills performance, and a nonstop street party to bursting every Saturday morning, as atmosphere. The festival attracts 150 local farmers, craftspeople, and flea theater companies and performing marketers gather to talk, trade, and mill troupes from around the world, plus an THE BEST FESTIVALS & SPECIAL EVENTS SPECIAL & FESTIVALS BEST THE aimlessly. CANADIAN ROCKIES THE & COLUMBIA BRITISH With all ages of hippies, audience of over 600,000. See p. 359.

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