PHILADELPHIA, PA FEATURES in THIS ISSUE 5 2009 Annual Conference in Philadelphia

WINTER 2 0 1 0

Conference Review 2009 LDEI Annual Conference PHILADELPHIA, PA FEATURES IN THIS ISSUE 5 2009 Annual Conference in Philadelphia

7 Keynote Presentations WINTER• 2 O 1 0 Embracing the Past 8-9 Partner’s Lunch for a Promising Future When the first LDEI conference met in Phila- delphia in 1988, attendees represented five 10-11 Seminars existing chapters. It was history in the making! Dames from 27 chapters returned to the historic city for the 22nd annual gathering in 12 Enrichment Events October 2009. Thoughts, words and accomplishments from our past shaped the present; each new moment brings creative opportuni- 13 Trinity Home Reception ties for future growth. Conference is a time to network; note the smil- ing faces in the photos. When Dames connect, 14-15 Chapter Photos it creates a ripple of energy that can result in a tidal wave of positive change. The photographs capture a moment in time but also help convey 16-17 Anniversaries and the the stories. Special thanks to conference pho- tographers who assisted me: Hayley Matson- Celebratory Big Cake Mathes (Hawaii) and her husband Mike, Lori Willis (St. Louis), CiCi Williamson (D.C.), and Beth Allen (New York). 20-21 Grande Dame Award Dinner It is a privilege to serve as Quarterly editor; with this issue, I begin a second term. Keeping you informed is a priority for the new Edito- rial Board: Advisor and LDEI 1st V.P. Sandy DEPARTMENTS Hu (San Francisco), Advisor CiCi Williamson (D.C.), Chandra Ram (Chicago), Jane Men- 3 President’s Message delson (D.C.), Zola Nichols (Palm Springs) and Lori Willis (St. Paul). We enthusiastically welcome Mudd Graphic Design Resources, 22-25 Chapter News our new Quarterly design team. “Do well by doing good,” advised Ben Frank- lin, one of America’s most innovative Found- 26-29 Member Milestones ing Fathers. He believed real success was mea- sured by what one could give back to society so he “planted seeds” for the future by helping 30 Submission Guidelines those around him. In this spirit, LDEI chapters impact their communities in a positive way On the Cover: through education, advocacy and philanthropy. Philadelphia Chapter Photo –Donna Conner Even better, they have fun while doing it. Philadelphia Photos – Lori Willis and Hayley Matson-Mathes Susan Fuller Slack, Editor

Teresa J. Farney C.H.E., C.C.P. SUSAN FULLER SLACK, C.C.P. Dorothy R. Koteski Kathy Gottsacker Suzanne J. Brown Food Editor Food Writer/Culinary Educator Professor, Allied Health Department Retail/Education/Television/Food Writer Principal The Gazette Culinary Bouquets Community College of Philadelphia Schnuck Markets Brown Marketing Communications, LLC 7220 Delmonico Drive 116 Hurlingham Drive 27 Cooper Run Drive 12550 Falling Leaves Court 5415 Northland Drive NE, #203 Colorado Springs, CO 80919 Columbia, SC 29223 Cherry Hill, NJ 08003-2244 St. Louis, MO 63141 Atlanta, GA 30342 (719) 636-0271 (w) (803) 736-7103 (w) (856) 489-0052 (h) (314) 994-2266 (w) (770) 377-3488 (c) [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Sandra Matsukawa Hu Marie G. Kelley Mary S. Moore Aliza Miriam Green Principal President/Owner Founder/CEO Chef/Author/Consultant Greg Jewell Sandy Hu Food Marketing LLC Kelley Productions International The Cook’s Warehouse 640 Green Briar Road President 380 Roosevelt Way 2047 Caminito Capa 1095 Zonolite Road NE, Suite 104 Elkins Park, PA 19027 AEC Management Resources San Francisco, CA 94114 La Jolla, CA 92037 Atlanta, GA 30306 (215) 635-0651 (w) P.O. Box 4961 (415) 626-1765 (w) (858) 456-6609 (w) (404) 492-9018 (w) [email protected] Louisville, KY 40204 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] (502) 456-1851 x1 Mary Ellen Griffin [email protected] Partner Continental Consulting Group 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 Stamford, CT 06902 (203) 975 7610 (w) [email protected] Staying Ahead of the Curve Through LDEI

Dear Dames,

or four days at the Sofitel Philadelphia hotel, the City of FBrotherly Love became the City of Sisterly Love during the Les Dames d’Escoffier International annual conference in October. Conference co-chairs, Dottie Koteski and Anita Pignatoro and their committee, promised a conference that would inspire and energize, and they delivered. We enjoyed a bounty of rich, educational programs along with a diverse selection of historic tours. Speakers were exceptional starting with the keynote talk by Marion Nestle, Ph.D. who spoke about the new food revolution and events leading to the current push for a healthier and more sustainable food system. Her presentation was followed by an inspiring talk by Michael Whiteman, considered this country’s leading food and restaurant consultant. His talk “Preparing for Change” gave us a world view of an ever-changing food industry. Those talks revved us up for a series of seminars the next two days. You’ll find reviews about these seminars in the following pages. If you were not able to attend the meeting in Philly, you can visit ldei.org, log on at the Member login, click on Resources, and find all of these presentations as podcasts. Download the podcast of your choice to enjoy on your next trans-Atlantic flight. Also, please visit our Web site at www.ldei.org/ and read about this year’s Grande Dame Award recipient, Shirley Corriher (Atlanta) in the archived Spring Quarterly. She is a noted food scientist, culinary authority, chef, cookbook author, and problem Directors at Large solver. Plus she is one funny lady. Affectionately known as DALs, The Directors at Large I’ve heard it time again: When you attend the annual conference, hold one of the most important positions on the Board of “you get it” – meaning, you get what an extraordinary group of Directors. Each chapter president is assigned to a DAL who will women comprise Les Dames d’Escoffier International. We truly conduct six conference calls with chapter leadership during the are a sisterhood. As you glance through this issue of the Quarterly, year. These calls are important and are not optional. They are a I hope you will get a sense of the value that attending the annual way to build relationships among chapters and, more importantly conference brings to you professionally and personally. And if the way of keeping strong communications open with the LDEI you take time to listen to the podcasts, you may be inspired to Board. Dates for all calls are scheduled. The schedule is available attend next year’s conference, Oct. 21 to 24 at the Hyatt Grand online at our Web site. If a chapter president is not available Champions Resort in Palm Springs, California. for the call, presidents, please, assign another member of your Board to dial in. I will be dialing in to as many of the calls this year as possible.

Teresa Farney (Colorado)

F A L L Q u arterly 2 OO 9 3 Meet COOKING WITH the LES DAMES LDEI D’ESCOFFIER Staff by Marcella Rosene (Seattle) Greg Jewell Nick Vaccaro Amy West LDEI Executive Director Director of Projects Data Input Specialist ow gratifying…to thumb Hthrough Cooking With Les s LDEI grows, so does the staff necessary to handle responsibilities. Dames d’Escoffierand discover recipe Aall of the organization’s membership and business Nick Vaccaro recently joined AEC Management and after mouthwatering recipe from this needs. Here is a snapshot of the staff members and will be working with LDEI on its annual conference. distinguished group of professional their responsibilities for LDEI: Nick is a 15-year veteran of the association manage- women. Dallas Morning News Greg Jewell has been LDEI’s executive director ment industry and recently ended a seven year run And so, for over a year, publica- since November, 2001. He is the president of AEC as an independent restaurant owner in Chattanooga, tions around the country have been Management Resources, the management company TN. He currently serves as the executive director of singing the praises of COOKING of record for LDEI. His company is responsible for the Meeting Professionals International Tennessee WITH LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER. the management of four non-profit associations and Chapter and the Kentucky State Parks Foundation. Just shy of 10,000 copies have one foundation. To learn more about the company, Amy West has served as the LDEI data specialist been sold and it’s been gratifying visit www.aecmanagement.com. since 2002. Prior to joining the AEC team, she served to hear LDEI linked with words Greg works with the LDEI board on all strategic as the data input specialist for the International As- like “impeccable source,” “real issues and serves as a resource for the chapter presidents sociation of Culinary Professionals. Amy handles all of food professional,” “mouthwater- on all issues pertinent to running an organization. the roster update information, preparing the data for ing recipes,” and “a must-have.” He also handles conference planning, the web site printing in the membership directory and processing Surely this means that more people for both LDEI and Green Tables, and a host of other conference registrations. know about us than did a year ago. And with about a third of the sales being to LDEI chapters, NYU Fales Library & LDNY Honor estimates are that book revenues have put roughly $50,000 into chapter coffers. Grande Dame Carol Brock We’ve had the thrill and disap- by Beth Allen pointment of being on numerous (New York) short lists: for GOURMET’S monthly cookbook pick; for a n the beautiful fall evening feature on the TODAY SHOW; Oof October 21, 2009, in the for the IACP AWARD FOR BEST elegant New York University Pent- ANTHOLOGY (we were one of house on Washington Square in the three finalists, but alas, did not Manhattan, 80 Dames and guests win). A big coup was being included joined to honor Grande Dame in THE GOOD COOK catalogue

Carol Brock. The Champagne PhotographerElena Olivo, and website under the headline: Reception was being held in cel- Les Dames d’Escoffier is making York Daily News. The evening’s “A Culinary Dream Team: This ebration of the creation of the Les to help Fales Library become one formal program ended on an excit- cookbook is like getting into the Dames d’Escoffier Carol Brock of the most important cookbook ing note: the opportunity for Carol kitchen with the greatest cooking New Acquisitions Program at the collections in the country. Marvin Brock to describe how she founded teachers of all time.” esteemed Fales Library at New Taylor, Director of Fales Library the first professional organization All of us involved in managing York University. The breathtaking and Special Collections, explained for women in wine, food and hos- the project take pride in its suc- 360-degree view of Manhattan from how this partnership is supporting pitality with fifty women in 1976. cess, but we also know the book’s the wrap-around terrace set the his goal toward obtaining some key More champagne toasting followed, continued effectiveness depends tone for the grand evening ahead. cookbook treasures and expand- allowing all guests to share in Carol’s upon each individual Dame who President Deborah Mintcheff, ing the current collection of over celebratory evening. graciously and generously hauls Mistress of Ceremonies for the 22,000 titles. He took us through, Thanks to the LDNY Fales cases of books near and far and event, set the stage by describing the with great enthusiasm, the exciting Committee for launching this who continues to sing of its virtues. exciting new partnership between history of the Fales collection during initiative: Chair Rozanne Gold, Alice Gautsch Foreman (Se- Fales Library and Les Dames New the past seven years. President Deborah Mintcheff attle) suggests chapters consider York, worked on over the past nine Next to speak: Arthur Schwartz, and Secretary Gale Steves— plus donating several cookbooks to months. She and Dean Mandel of affectionately known as “The Schwartz New York Dames, Dames from their local library system. She says, NYU presented Carol with a beauti- Who Ate New York,” renowned other chapters, and the chapters “It’s a positive opportunity for ful framed certificate in her honor. cookbook author, food critic and who have contributed toward our exposure. Every placement helps Carol Mandel, dean of the Division radio personality. He shared humorous $50,000 goal. Special thanks Liz accomplish the original goal: to of Libraries at New York University, happenings and priceless memories Neumark, Ariane Daguin and tell the world about Les Dames shared the University’s gratitude and of Carol Brock, during the time he Mary Cleaver who contributed to d’ Escoffier and the many good expressed the significant impact that was her boss and friend at the New this memorable reception. things for which we stand.“ 4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI TRAIN PULLS INTO PHILADELPHIA by Suzanne Brown, Immediate Past President, LDEI

he Reading Railroad is a property in the game of Monopoly, and that’s just Twhat Les Dames had at the Philadelphia Conference – a monopoly on energy and inspiration. Although the real Reading Railroad no longer exists, the Reading Terminal Market lives on and represents the rich culture and international flavor Dames experienced in the City of Brotherly Love. Dames who toured the Market, or heard Aliza Green’s (Philadelphia) spice and herb presentation, can attest to the multi-cultural atmosphere found in this historic building. As anyone knows, a train needs engineers, and our Philadelphia Conference Co-Chairs Dottie Koteski and Anita Pignataro were the engineers who led the well-organized Philadelphia “crew.” The conference committee worked throughout the year to successfully orchestrate and (L-R) Conference Co-Chairs: Dottie Koteski implement the largest attended conference in LDEI history. and Anita Pignataro Conductors on the LDEI train were sub-committee Co-Chairs Eileen Talanian and Jennifer Linder McGlinn, Registration and Hos- pitality; Louise Ceccarelli and Deanna Segrave-Daly, Tours and Optional Events. Dining car managers were Lynn Buono and Vicky Pohl, Meal Functions and Gala Dinner; Logistics managers were Aliza Green and Nancy Miller who were in charge of Program Planning; Switch managers were Sandy Dych and Manette Richardson who coordinated public relations, photography, product tracking and the dine-arounds. Passengers were wined, dined and educated. Philadelphia Dames Claire Boasi and Julie Dannenbaum hosted a cocktail reception for presidents of chapters, past presidents of LDEI, and Board of Directors. Held in Julie’s historic townhome near Rit- tenhouse Square, Dames experienced colonial architecture appointed with timeless antiques while savoring delicacies from Julie’s cookbook. Later, during the conference, Claire Boasi commented about the turn-out this year. “These are difficult times financially and work wise for everyone. I was so proud that so many of our members had the confidence in themselves to take the time and spend the money to attend the conference. This shows a level of maturity and respect that our members have developed over the years.” While there were a lot of new highlights featured in this conference, some of the traditional reasons for attending are a continuum. Perhaps Peg Rahn (LA/Orange Co.) said it best, “Conference gives us the best opportunity to network and share chapter strengths and weaknesses. It was fun seeing old friends and meeting new ones. We really got a lot of bang for the buck.” LsDmese a d’Escoffier’s CORNUCOPIA, 2009 by Suzanne DeGalan (San Francisco) rom October 1 through October 31, 2009, Les Dames d’Escoffier hosted its third Fonline auction, Cornucopia 2009. We kicked off the auction during our national conference in Philadelphia from October 1 to 4. Dames generously donated doz- ens of wonderful items through their own businesses, as well as soliciting donations from colleagues and friends. This year, Cornucopia 2009 raised more than $16,000. For those of you who donated items or bid on gifts, your participation was an invaluable part of LDEI’s fundraising efforts. Many, many thanks for your generos- Suzanne DeGalan ity, creativity and service to LDEI.

W I N T E R Q U AARTERLY 2010 55 Susan Slack

Board of Director’s Dinner & Meeting hosted by Past President Suzanne Brown

Clockwise from top left: Outgoing board members Alice Gautsch Foreman and Wendy Taylor. Executive Director Greg Jew- ell shows off the latest business tools - a gift from Past President Suzanne Brown. Check out his shiny new whistle and cap with the logo, Chief Cat Herder, LDEI. Outgoing board members Katherine Newell Smith and Zola Nichols. Beef entree at the board dinner. (L-R): Teresa Farney, Sandy Hu, Toria Emas, Zola Nichols and Marie Kelley. Dinner guest Dianne Hogerty. Outgoing-incoming board includes: Aliza Green, Sandy Hu, Alice Gautsch Foreman, Mary Ellen Griffin and Kathy Gottsacker. Dinner guests LDEI Founder Carol Brock and Past President Dolores Snyder. Teresa Farney presents a farewell gift to outgoing President, Suzanne Brown at the Board of Director’s Meeting. Alice Gautsch Foreman and Suzanne Brown at the Board of Director’s Dinner. Dessert trio at the board dinner.

Not pictured: Mary Moore, Dottie Kosenski and Susan Slack.

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International The Opening Breakfast on Friday, October 2, featured an inspiring keynote speech by New York Dame, Dr. Marion Nestle, Ph.D., followed “Today’s Food Revo- “After the Downturn by an entertaining lution: Changing the Turns Around: Preparing for Change” and informative Way We Cook and Eat from Farm to Table” by Gail Forman speech by ichael Whiteman, second keynote speaker, by Gail Forman (Washington D.C.) Mgave an amusing but serious talk about what international trend eft wing, right wing, everyone is talking the new consumer will look like when the good Labout food and food policy; even the food times return. People will have learned a new set expert, Michael industry is gripped by concerns about obesity of priorities, he said, and to be distinctive and and chronic disease risks. All this adds up to a successful restaurants will have to respond to the “food revolution,” said keynote speaker Marion changes. They will need to focus on psychology

Whiteman. K e y note P resentations Nestle, whose own main interests are public and new consumer concerns such as economic health, obesity, and food safety. survival, the desire for intimacy and friendship, They provided Nestle suggests two approaches to obesity and the “feeding” of knowledge and emotions. management: personal responsibility and cor- The key concepts will be handmade, neighbor- the intellectual porate responsibility. We live in a society in hood, local, authentic, real, comfort, and safety. which food companies, health professionals, Because sharing food has emotional resonance, nourishment that and, sometimes, government, encourage people restaurants will be re-sizing their plates, either to eat more, she said. The ubiquity and proxim- with small plates or large, family-style platters. set the tone for ity of food and the skewed agriculture subsidy “Made-by-hand” foods respond to consumers’ system have resulted in people eating more junk desire to reconnect with the food past and the the day’s seminars, food and larger portions. In our “gorge yourself rituals of dinner. Restaurants will sell consum- environment,” where there has been a rise from ers experience through both visual involvement 3,200 to 4,000 available calories per capita per and active participation and by tapping into enrichment sessions day (twice the average need), people must learn memory via meals. Downscaling will also be to eat better and to exercise portion control. important by featuring, for example, offal, up- and networking And the Wall Street “shareholder value move- scale burgers (hamburgers and lamb, shrimp, ment,” which since the 1980s has required food and bulgogi burgers), or hot dogs. This tactic activities. companies to grow their profits, also needs to enables consumers not to feel deprived and helps be changed. Food companies have responded curtail unsustainable spending. A new plating by creating functional foods (e.g. adding im- strategy will include smaller portion sizes and munity boosters), making health claims, printing placing vegetables on top of the protein. endorsements, and marketing directly to children. Additionally, Whiteman predicted the death However, if nutritionists were to set up nutrition of “cool” restaurant design, an urban and com- criteria, a lot of foods wouldn’t qualify, Nestle said. munity garden movement with major social Food safety has also become a burning issue—a ramifications, the growth of consumption of fresh wake-up call to the industry. Nestle’s solution: food, and merchandising to the next generation. a combined FDA/USDA single food safety In conclusion, he said, post-recession restaurants agency. On the local level, she suggested, people must appeal to consumers’ real needs in order can become involved, for example, by improv- to be successful. ing school lunches and teaching food service personnel how to cook, prohibiting vending machines in schools, and establishing student gardens; by cooking at home from scratch; and by making better food choices.

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 7 MANY THANKS TO OUR PARTNERS …

by Susan Weinstein, Director of Cima Collina Winery Development, (S. Florida) hank You, Merci, Gracias, Danke, Grazie, Ob- Trigado…Whatever the language is, we want to express our appreciation to our Partners. This year, we came together to celebrate and share the heritage of our organization. We traveled to Phila- delphia, “The City of Brotherly Love”, to be inspired and energized. And also to meet, see and network with our supporters……our dedicated partners. On Friday, October 2nd we had the opportunity to personally taste and talk one-on-one with those brands that have invested time and resources to connect with us. We enjoyed sampling creative ways and Batdorf & Bronson flavors presented by The Beef Checkoff, Mahatma Rice, Fresh Gourmet Salad Toppings (Sugar Foods) and Cabot Creamery Cheeses. Special treats were offered from Peter’s Chocolate, Häagen-Dazs and Kikkoman. We took pleasure in sipping extraordinary premium wines from the Wente Vineyards and the portfolio of DFV Wines; Gnarly Head, 337, Irony, Loredona, and Brazin. Unfortunately, Cima Collina was unable to be tasted due to a PABC issue, however, they were proud to showcase their winery. 360 Vodka returned to shake-up new flavors and recipes, which tickled many of our palates. Bartdorf & Bronson provided “Dancing Goats”; a blend offhand-crafted roasted All-Clad/Krups coffee. And finally, All-Clad and Krups displayed their newest designs in culinary equipment. Our partnership program has grown throughout the years. Nevertheless, this year was most challenging as sponsorship and promotional budgets were slashed. We ask that you reach-out to their representatives throughout the year and invite them to participate on a local level. Embracing our partners and making their alliance fruitful is vital to the value of our LDEI “Program for Partners”. As accomplished women in culinary professions, it’s a win-win. And especially as culinary influencers, our partners can generate a world of opportunities for us too. Top: Roy Chamberlin, husband of Dame A very special thanks to our committed partners that Mary Chamberlin, represented winemaker have returned; Wente Family Estates, DFV Wines, Dame Annette Hoff and Cima Collina Win- All-Clad, Krups, Sugar Foods, 360 Vodka, The Beef ery, producer of fine California wines. Checkoff and Peter’s Chocolate. Middle: During the conference, Dames We welcome Kikkoman, Häagen-Dazs, Cima Collina, enjoyed the Dancing Goats Coffee Blend, a dark, smooth, sweet signature coffee from Bartdorf & Bronson Coffee Roasters, Mahatma Rice, Batdorf & Bronson Coffee Roasters. and Cabot Creamery to our roster of extraordinary brands/sponsors. Bottom: Lisa Callaghan, Director of Culinary Relations with All-Clad/Krups, chats about And finally, to our “Saturday Supporter”, Strauss the latest cookware with Dame Liesel Veal….. Thank You! Flashenberg.

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Hayley Matson-Mathes Hayley Susan Slack

Häagen-Dazs 360 Vodka DFV Wines The Beef Checkoff

Kikkoman USA

Peter’s Chocolates

Cabot Creamery

Sugar Foods

Mahatma Rice Wente Family Estates

Top: Sandy Hu loves Häagen-Dazs ice cream. Everyone else at the conference did too. Middle: Dame Patricia Ward displays ice cream sandwiches made with Häagen-Dazs ice cream sandwiched Top: Graham Kimura, the 360 Vodka between pairs of Brown Sugar Ice Box Brand Ambassador, created a variety Cookies. Flavors of the day included Pas- of amazing cocktails for the confer- Top: Holly Evans, Director of Public Relations, sion Fruit, Ginger and Vanilla Honey Bee. ence, like the Wasabitini, with spicy pours award-winning DFV Wines. fresh wasabi. Patricia contributed the cookie recipe Middle: Helen Roberts (in yellow), Market- to the LDEI cookbook, COOKING WITH Middle: Amanda Frey offered Dames ing Director, Kikkoman USA, Inc., explains the Top: Beef -it’s what’s for lunch! Dame LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER ( Jumbo Ice a variety of fine Peter’s Chocolates, advantages of Kikkoman soy sauce as a universal Michaele Musel of The Beef Checkoff served Cream Sandwiches with Fresh Raspberry which are made in the European seasoning. In the background, Katherine Ber- delicious faijitas with all the trimmings. Sauce....page 275) . tradition of quality, freshness and tolani, Kikkoman Account Manager/Ketchum PR, good taste. chats with Dames. Middle: Dames sampled a variety of delicious Bottom: At the Mahatma Rice Station, Cabot Creamery cheeses throughout the Dames enjoyed several rice dishes in- Bottom(L-R): Lynn Hoopes and Dame Bottom: Andrea Brule, Director of Product Manage- conference. Photo: Lori Willis. Bottom: Alice cluding a creamy Jasmine Coconut Rice Becky Minchew served the fabulous ment for Sugar Foods, offered a bountiful display of Gautsch Foreman offers samples of Cabot Pudding and Brown Rice Nut Salad. Wente Family Estates Premium Wines. gourmet salad toppers. Creamery cheese.

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 9 Susan Slack Susan Slack

Standing: Suzanne Brown. Seated (L-R): Dames Liesel Dennis van Engelsdorp Flashenberg, Margaret Kuo and Lourdes Castro Colony Collapse Low-Risk Global Culinary Disorder in Bees Entrepreneurship Initiatives by Janet Burgess Chris Hanks teaches the entrepreneurship curriculum at By Braiden Rex-Johnson, very winter we are losing bees” the Terry College of Business at the University of Georgia. He is Director of their Entrepreneurship Program, the only Vice President, “Eaccording to conference speaker entrepreneurship program focused exclusively on the (Seattle Chapter) Dennis van Engelsdorp, Pennsylvania’s launch of successful ventures. He owns multiple busi- Acting State Apiarist. Why care? The world nesses, including service, e-commerce, and publishing rapt roomful of Dames listened as ventures. He earned a BBA in risk management from The three of our own members discussed has had a rich association with bees for University of Georgia and an MBA in finance from San A thousands of years. Cave paintings from Jose State University. Chris presented a well-received the creative ways they’ve used their cultural seminar on Low Risk Entrepreneurship in Troubled Times. roots and business savvy to connect with 5,000 years ago show women collecting You can listen to his seminar on a podcast at the LDEI bees and honey. Before there was sugar website. ldei.org people across the globe. Lourdes Castro (New York), a bilingual there was only honey. Dennis said, “One culinary expert of Cuban descent, has out of every three bites of food we eat is helped English-speaking people break directly or indirectly pollinated by honey through language barrier thanks to her bees.” Honey is also used for medicinal recently published book, “Eat, Drink, purposes in burn units because it contains Think in Spanish” (Ten Speed Press, moisture. 2009), a Spanish-English dictionary of Bees are very mobile. They live in a culinary terms. matriarchal society made up of worker Margaret Kuo (Philadelphia), who bees and one queen. Bees leave the hive grew up in Taiwan and is the executive and return to jump around on their fellow chef/owner of five Philadelphia-area bees to communicate. In recent years there restaurants, has incorporated Chinese have been losses up to 60% of bees who Food 2020 – The and Japanese culinary traditions into her never returned to the hive. This phenom- Consumer as CEO restaurants’ cooking classes, charitable enon has occurred in Japan, Canada, EU events, and festivals. and the United States and is called Colony Linda W. Eatherton is a partner and Director of Global As president of Through the Kitchen Collapse Disorder. Trying to determine why Food & Nutrition Practice for Ketchum, a leading public this has happened has been difficult, since relations firm. She graduated from the University of Door International, Liesel Flashenberg Missouri with a Bachelor of Journalism degree and is (Washington, D.C.) has given new bees often relocate. One reason bees may a member of PRSA, is president of the Society for Nutri- die is that they get the flu. Other answers tion Education Foundation’s Board of Trustees. hope to thousands of low-income and Linda discussed the chief food concerns of today’s recent-immigrant adults, women heads- may involve pesticides and insecticides consumers and how we can expect those concerns to of-households, adolescents, and youth used near bee colonies. Scientists hope change over the next decade? She revealed the find- this trend will end and bees will thrive. ings of a ground-breaking survey from Ketchum Global through culinary-training programs. Food & Nutrition Practice on what consumers want. Attendees were excited to learn that Bees arrived with the colonists and are Consumers in five countries took part in the survey: Global Initiatives is a new LDEI Standing not native to the United States. Native the U.S., the U.K., Germany, Argentina and China. Americans called them “White Man’s Fly.” Linda said, “ the consumer as CEO will be the driver Committee, another way our organization for growth in all segments – food service; industrial is branching out beyond borders and Bees have compound eyes and lots of lenses. food and ingredient sales; consumer commodities and They love flowers, as the petals appear to branded food products. The question is whether you branding itself internationally. are prepared to sit in the front or back seat.” To find out them like landing pads. Truckloads of bees more, a podcast of this seminar is available at the LDEI are moved across the country to pollinate. website. HYPERLINK “http://ldei.org/”ldei.org In California alone, 80% of the almond trees are pollinated by bees. Without bees there would be no almonds. One recommendation from Dennis was to plant more meadows instead of grass. You can also become a beekeeper and eat local honey, instead of sugar. Probably the most important thing to know if you want to get involved with bees is don’t bee Seminars keep in the nude!

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International CiCiWilliamson (L-R): Lari Robling, Emma Weigley and Valerie Erwin

Inspirational Food and Culinary Histories by CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.) Geechee girl, a biographer, and a radio

Aproducer shared culinary histories spanning Susan Slack three centuries at the seminar “Inspirational Food and Culinary Histories.” Valerie Erwin, Owner Seated (L-R): Green Tables panel Nancy Matheson-Burns, Dole & Bailey; Ann Karlen, Fair Food; Marilyn An- of Geechee Girl Rice Café and a descendant of thony, Pa. Association for Sustainable Agriculture; Laura Sapienza-Grabski, Dole & Bailey and Brookview Farm. South Carolina Slaves related how rice became Standing behind: Moderator Carolyn Worthington, Chevelo Farm. a staple and the cash crop of antebellum Low Country plantations. Valerie said that “Geechee is the name for the enslaved West African peoples who lived on the Dames Lead Food Sea Islands and coastal areas of the Carolinas, Georgia and Northern Florida. The Africans who Systems Partnerships were brought to South Carolina lived on West by Cynthia Nims (Seattle) Africa’s rice coast and were expert in rice cultivation. Much of the success of the Sea Islands’ early oderator Carolyn Worthington, owner of Chevelo Farm in nearby rice industry can be attributed to a black rush MChester County, introduced this post-lunch audience to four Dames basket called the fanner that was developed by whom she described as among the “new pioneers” of sustainable, local food the Geechee people. The fanner was used to toss systems. The panel consisted of Marilyn Anthony (Southeast Regional (fan) threshed rice into the air to allow the wind to Director of Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture), Nancy carry off the chaff.” www.geecheegirlricecafe.com Matheson-Burns (CEO of Dole & Bailey), Laura Sapienza-Grabski (Dole Emma Weigley, a historian, researcher, and & Bailey and Brookview Farm) and Ann Karlen (Executive Director of nutritionist and is the author of Sarah Tyson Rorer: Fair Food). Programs they champion include New England Family Farm (a The Nation’s Instructress in Dietetics and Cookery consortium of local farms and artisanal producers) and Fair Food (support- (1977). Emma told about this forward-thinking ing a humane, sustainable agriculture system in the region). Through their 19th century woman who was a columnist and various enterprises, these inspiring, dynamic women help connect farmers co-owner of the Philadelphia magazine Table to consumers and chefs; help farmers band together for greater marketing Talk. Rorer was also the founder (in 1884) of the and distribution power; engage their communities to support local farmers Philadelphia Cooking School; and contributing and—overall—help protect the viability of running an independent farm editor to the Ladies’ Home Journal. Her work today. They sent us off on a mission to consider the choices we make in our focused on the influence of food upon the body, own daily lives and take whatever steps we can to increase support of those especially upon the sick or malnourished, and she who work to bring wholesome, local foods to our tables. is considered to be America’s first dietician and influenced the field of hospital dietetics. Rorer authored numerous cookbooks and pamphlets Zola Nichols (Palm Springs) said the panel gave the listeners a whole but is best known for her collection Mrs. Rorer’s new sense of what they, as women, could do to foster wholesome, locally New Cook Book: A Manual of Housekeeping. grown and humanely raised food for our tables. Lari Robling, radio producer, researcher and “We Dames must be aware of the politics and economics of our food. author. Lari Robling, author of Endangered It should be our mission to educate our chapters and communities to the Recipes: Too Good to Be Forgotten, spoke about importance of having a connection with our farmers and the food we collecting endangered recipes and about World serve. Much of the growth in farming is being fostered by women, like our War II ration cooking. A regular contributor to Dames, who really care about standards and certification. As a result, we the radio show “A Chef’s Table,” she played some are providing the best food possible to an increasingly-aware buying public. historic radio sound recordings including a Betty This is a call to action! Lets make it happen in our communities. Be Crocker World War II clip. Lari believes that “the aware of what goes into your food and how it is prepared. Buy from nostalgic memories created by food are, without your local farmer’s markets. Try to eat a more organic diet to eliminate a doubt, the most evocative and compelling of preservatives. Support the principles of Green Tables and we will all be all.” Therefore, “all these recipes must be saved.” rewarded in the long run.”

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 11 The Art of Wine at the Pennsylvania Cooking with Uncommon Academy of Fine Arts Spices and Herbs by Pat Ward (Philadelphia) o finer setting could be found than the exquisite Pennsylvania Academy Nof Fine Arts (PAFA) for a wine tasting. The Dames were welcomed by Judite Morais, Art Historian and Wine Event Director for PAFA, with by Sarah Graham a tour of several paintings that were paired with the wines. Shawn Dore, (Charleston) Wine Educator and Sommelier, AIWS/DWS, led the wine tasting. We tasted liza (Al-eeza) Green is an three California white wines from two LDEI partners—Loredona (DFV Aacclaimed executive chef, Wines) and Wente Wineries. We compared them with a Chardonnay from prolific author (including The the Maconnais region of France. Lastly, we tasted four Pinot Noir wines Field Guide to Herbs and Spices), from the Burgundy region. Shawn chose some vintages that retail up to QVC culinary commentator, $150/bottle and are in limited availability. Her expertise made this wine culinary travel guide and ultimate tasting a unique experience. Capital Wine & Spirits/The Charmer Sunbelt cooking class teacher. Headset Group and PAFA sponsored the wine tasting. taped to her cheek and spatula in Susan Slack hand, Aliza was ready when the banter of cultural facts and tips class streamed into La Cucina at on preparation and technique. TEA FROM A ZEN CUP The Reading Terminal Market. So sure of her facts, so fond of by Susan Slack (Charleston) We were hardly in our seats her subject and so experienced as before the imaginary spice train a chef, everything was organized wenty Dames traveled to West Fairmount Park’s Horticultural Center left the station and little did we, down to the last detail. Each spice Tto visit Shofuso (Pine Breeze Villa), a beautifully replicated upper-class, the unwitting passengers, realize was cupped and labeled, foods 17th century Japanese home. It was built in Japan in 1954 as an exhibit what a great ride we were in for. We plated and prepared to pass, uten- for the New York Museum of Modern Art; eventually, the structure found were whisked through the quaint sils in place and a bevy of skilled a permanent home in Philadelphia. suburbs of Mumbai, formerly assistants to keep things moving Along the path to Shofuso’s teahouse, we admired the ornamental garden, home to employees of Britain’s at a fun and furious pace. There the picturesque koi-filled pond and waterfall. Entering the serene world of East India Company, to introduce were recipes for each prepared dish the tea room, the sock-clad Dames settled comfortably on the floor of the us to the Best East Indian Bottle and detailed handouts describing 15-tatami-mat room. The open veranda provided a tranquil view, helping Marsala, a recipe given to Aliza by each spice or flavoring agent. set the stage for our Zen experience. a current resident and by which As we left with samples in The ancient roots of Chanoyu (“hot water for tea”) lie in Zen Buddhism. The she structured the class. hand or on fork we raved about graceful, kinomo-clad tea host performed the ritual of boiling the water and During the cooking class, the flavors of Australian lemon making tea. It was soon evident the simple movements were carefully choreo- Aliza guided, tempted and in- myrtle, masala on cauliflower and graphed - designed to embrace the underlying principles of harmony, tranquility, spired us through the toasting, the fragrance of rosewater in the purity and respect. There are many layers to the tea experience, spiritual as well grinding, frying and tasting of 22 sesame cookies. The recipes are as esthetic. Dames slowly sipped the astringent, frothy green tea (matcha) and spices needed to create her favorite clear, uncomplicated and available nibbled on exquisite fresh tea sweets (namagashi). Courtesies were exchanged blend. She kept us on the edge of on the LDEI website, as are the with the tea host as the handmade tea bowls and utensils were presented for our seats for two hours with the spice handouts. (www.ldei.com/) closer inspection. The Japanese saying, Ichigo, Ichie, meaning “one meeting, one opportunity” best reflects the uniqueness of this special tea gathering.

Bartram’s Garden by Susan Slack istoric Bartram’s Gardens is America’s oldest living botanical Hgarden. The 45-acre, 18th century homestead is located on the Schuylkill River in Southwest Philadelphia. Astonishingly, the property remains nearly as it was 250 years ago, even though it is surrounded by Philadelphia’s urban bustle, Quaker John Bartram was inspired by a single daisy while plowing his fields and dedicated his life to exploring, collecting and understanding plants. Called “The greatest natural botanist in the world,” he introduced into cultivation more than 200 of our native American plants, vines and trees- the oldest specimens in America. Thomas Jef- ferson purchased Bartram’s plants for Monticello and the Continental Congress paid a visit to the gardens after adjourning a session. Bartram’s property includes the botanical garden, arboretum, parkland, meadow and a wetland. The stone house has been a National Historic Landmark since 1963. The Head Curator provided a private lecture on Quaker John Bartram and his amazing legacy to all Americans. Dame Rollie Blackwell (San Antonio) loved the historic visit and describing her experience, she said, “Fascinating and a good outdoor ENRICHMENT EVENTS event. It was great to get out of the hotel; I could have stayed longer.”

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International A Philadelphia “Trinity Home” R e c eption by Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia)

ast presidents of Les Dames D’Escoffier, current LDEI Board Members and Pchapter presidents were treated to see one of traditional Philadelphia’s unique homes, while nibbling on hors d’oeuvres and Pennsylvania Blue Gin cocktails. Grande Dame Julie Dannenbaum and LDEI’s first President, Claire Boasi, hosted the reception at the home of Julie Dannenbaum. Julie’s home is located in the upscale and historic Rittenhouse Square neighborhood and only a short walk Square from the Sofitel. Many Philadelphia homes are referred to as “trinity homes,” which are row home that have at least three stories, with the kitchen in the basement or sub-basement, living quarters on the main floor, and one or two more levels for bedrooms. Another phrase for a trinity home is “Father, Son and Holy Ghost.” Both Julie and Claire were founding members of the Philadelphia Chapter, as was, Kathleen Mulhern, who also attended the reception. Philadelphia Dame Lynn Buono, owner of Feast Your Eyes Catering, catered the festive event.

(L-R): Wendy Taylor, Debbie Marlowe, Zola Nichols and Tina Hills enjoy a glass of wine at Julie Dannenbaum’s home. (L-R): LDEI Founder Carol Brock, Katherine Newell Smith, Claire Boasi and (seated) Julie Dannenbaum. (L-R): Barb Pires and Mary Moore visit Julie Dannenbaum’s beautiful home. (L-R): Lucille Giovino and Beth Davis-Noragon. (L-R): Anita Pignataro, Kathleen Mulhern,Claire Boasi, Dottie Koteski, Lynn Buono and (seated) Julie Dannenbaum. Cocktail fare at Julie Dannenbaum’s home.

Editor’s Note: Everyone loved the festive, creative party nibbles served at Julie Dannenbaum’s home. Caterer Lynn Buono said, “We used Julie’s cookbooks and gave the menu a slightly modern presentation much like the New York Times Magazine does bringing back some of the classics...... And surely, Julie was ahead of her time when she was a proponent of using fresh ingredients...... ” For a taste of the party fare, visit the LDEI website. (www.ldei.org/) Lynn provided a recipe for silky butternut squash soup served in espresso cups and topped with sweet potato marshmallows. The marshmallow recipe is from Philadelphia pastry chef Eileen Talanian. The dish actually showcases the work of three Dames. Lynn remarked, “It is rather cool to see Dames collaborating and working together.” Photos by CiciWilliamson

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 13 Chapter photos

Outgoing board Back row (L-R): Susan Slack, Marie G. Kelley, Wendy Taylor, Zola Nichols, Alice Gautsch Fore- man, Sandy Hu. Front row (L-R): Katherine Newell Smith, Teresa J. Farney, Suzanne J. Brown, Mary S. Moore

First Row of photos Second Row of photos Third Row of photos Atlanta Chapter British Columbia Chapter Colorado Chapter Back row (L-R): Gena Berry, Dana (L-R): Colleen Wilkinson, Betsy Ross (L-R): Joan Zach, Teresa Farney, Dabruzzi, Angie Mosier, Gina Hopkins, (Toria Emas), Tina Hills, Ben Franklin Ben Franklin, CiCi Williamson and Becky Minchew, Barbara Petit, Virginia and Wendy Taylor. Michaele Musel. Willis, Cathy Conway, Gloria Smiley, Tamie Cook, Andrea Case, Gaye Anderson, Debi Charleston Chapter Dallas Chapter Susan Slack, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Back Row (L-R): Shelby Schafer, Loftis. Front row seated (L-R): Doris Koplin, Debbie Marlowe, Ben Franklin and Tina Wasserman, Kris Ackerman, Mary Moore, Barb Pires, Shirley Corriher, Sarah Graham. Karen Cassady. Front Row (L-R): Suzanne Brown, Kathleen Perry. Lynn Mattie, Dolores Snyder, Sharon Austin Chapter Chicago Chapter Van Meter. (L-R): Johanna Brown and Beth Pav . Back row, (L-R): Karen Levin, Sharon Olson, Brenda McDowell, Veronica Hawaii Chapter Boston and Northeast ChapterS Hastings, Diane Sokolofski. Bottom row: Hayley Matson-Mathes (L-R): Lucille Giovino, Kelly Delaney, (L-R) Ina Pinkney, Nancy Barocci- Emily Schwab, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Brussat, Toria Emas (Betsy Ross), Houston Chapter (L-R): Debbie Jamarillo, Betsy Ross Ben Franklin, Laura Sapienza-Grabski Eleanor Hanson. (Toria Emas), Judy Henrichsen, Ben (Northeast), Barbara Spencer, Nancy Franklin and Julie Hettinger. Matheson-Burns (Northeast). Cleveland/Northeast ohio Chapter (L-R) Beth Davis-Noragon and Carol Hacker. (L-R): Executive Director Greg Jewell, Marie Kelley and Nick Vaccaro

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International First Row of photos Second Row of photos Second Row of photos Fourth Row of photos Kansas City Chapter New YOrk Chapter Phoenix Chapter Seattle Chapter (L-R) Kathy Pelz, Ben Franklin, Jane Back row (L-R): Jonell Nash, Lynn Fredericks, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Pamela Back Row (L-R) Cynthia Nims, Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross (Toria Zieha and Dianne Hogerty. Rozanne Gold, Nancy Jessup, Liz Young and Hamilton and Ben Franklin. Emas), Nancy Lazara. Front Row (L-R) Beverly Gruber, Alice Renee Marton. Front row (L-R): Grand Dame Gautsch Foreman, Braiden Rex-Johnson. Los Angeles/Orange County Carol Brock, Beth Allen, Deborah Mintcheff San Antonio Chapter (L-R) Marty Gonzales, Rollie Blackwell Chapter and Mary Ellen Griffin. South Florida Chapter (L-R): Phyllis Ann Marshall, Betsy and Di-Anna Arias. (L-R) Arianna Kumpis, Susan Weinstein and Marianne Langan . Ross (Toria Emas), Peg Rahn, Ben Philadelphia Chapter Franklin and Nancy Eisman. Front row (L-R): Anita Pignataro, Lynn Buono, San Diego Chapter St. Louis Chapter Back row (L-R): Marie Kelley, Glennalie (L-R) Roberta Capshaw, Kathy Gottsacker and Lori Willis. Mummer*, Nancy Miller, Claire Boasi, Dottie Coleman, Vickie Armour Magiluer. Front Minneapolis/st. Paul Koteski. Second row (L-R): Beth Adonno, Sandy Chapter row (L-R): Carol Blomstrom, Maria Washington D.C. Chapter Dych, Eileen Talanian, Adrienne Abramson, Back row, standing (L-R): Nancy Tringali Piho, Cynthia Glover, (L-R) Barbara Strand, Cindy Jur- Gomez-Laurens, Janet Burgess. Kathy Gold, Pattie Klein, Linda Geren, Pat gensen, Ben Franklin, Mary Bartz, and Bonnie Benwick, Liesel Flashenberg, CiCi Williamson, Linda Ward. Back row (L-R): Kystra Scully, Marie Nancy Maurer. San Francisco Chapter Joyce Forristal, Connie Jones and Gail Forman.Front row, sitting Stecher, Manette Richardson, Aliza Green (L-R): Sandy Hu, Amy Hoopes, Betsy (L-R): Teresa Farney, Katherine Newell Smith, Phyllis Frucht, Monterey Bay Area Chapter * Member of the Polish American Mummers Band. Ross (Toria Emas), Marie Simmons, Karen Vartan and Dolores Kostelni. Mary Chamberlain and Ben Franklin. Palm Springs Chapter Ben Franklin and Fran Gage. Not (L-R) Zola Nichols, Joy Lavitt, Kara Nichols pictured: Suzanne De Galan and Paula and Francine Robertshaw. Hamilton.

Incoming Board Back Row (L-R):Marie G. Kelley, Kathy Gottsacker, Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas) Mary Ellen Griffin, Dorothy R. Koteski, AlizaM iriam Green. Front row (L-R): Sandy Hu, Suzanne J. Brown, Teresa J. Farney, Susan Slack, Mary S. Moore Chapter photos and anniversary party photos taken by conference photographer Donna Connor on Friday evening, October 1st can be purchased through her website. Instructions to access images are: 1) Go to www.PhotoFace.com 2) On the homepage, click the blue “Buy Now” words at the top of the page. 3) In the middle panel of the page scroll and select LDEI in Philadelphia 4) Password for event is “Ben Franklin” (USE - the apostrophes and space between Ben and Franklin)

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 15 “Our cake is a celebration of all the achievements of women professionals in the culinary, beverage and hospitality field. Our design centers around the emblem of Les Dames d’ Escoffier because it symbolizes the heights that we have reached not only this year, but throughout the past decades as a driving force in the American food industry “ From the winning entry of Hannah Lane and Kelli Payne Happy Anniversaries!

Ed. Notes: Thanks to Alice Gautsch Foreman, Dottie Koteski and Marie Stecher for their contributions to the spectacular anniversary party and for assistance with this article. And to professional photographer Donna Connor who made posing for the chapter photos fun. She kept us all laughing and certainly knew how to capture the moment! And to Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) and her husband Mike, who graciously shared their photos of the anniversary party.

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Happy Anniversaries! Drawing by Heather Flemke

the cake but provided a scholarship award for the two students Congratulations toward their education at the Restaurant School. Pastry Chef Instructor, Dame Marie Stecher organized the to the seven chapters of LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER who are “Big Cake” competition involving pastry students in the bachelor celebrating anniversary milestones this year. The Cleveland/ program. Students were asked to design a three-tiered cake cel- Northeast Ohio Chapter is celebrating its fifth anniversary. ebrating the anniversaries of the seven chapters. It needed to be The Houston Chapter celebrates its 15th anniversary. The creative and embrace what the association stood for, yet represent Seattle and San Francisco Chapters are celebrating their 20th each of the 7 chapters. Most importantly- could it be delivered? anniversary, 1989 -2009. Students Hannah Lane and Kelli Payne came up with the The Dallas Chapter and the Philadelphia Chapter are cel- winning design. They successfully showcased city symbols for ebrating a silver anniversary, 1984-2009. TheBoston Chapter each chapter, such as: Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell; San Francisco’s is celebrating its Golden Anniversary. It was originally founded Golden Gate Bridge; Seattle’s Space Needle, a Boston tea cup, the in 1959 and joined LDEI in 1991. What an achievement! Dallas lone star, a Houston oil rig and for Cleveland/Northeast Congratulations, Boston Dames. Happy Anniversary to you all! Ohio, a symbol to represent rock and roll. Their design also On Friday evening, October 1, LDEI honored the anniversa- showcased the Les Dame d’ Escoffier International emblem and ries of seven remarkable chapters at a “Philly PHUN” evening featured a chef hat as the top of the cake. at the Sofitel during the organization’s annual gala. The event The photos tell the story of the festive event. Guests admired was hosted exclusively by DFV Wines. the intricacy of the celebratory cake, discovering more and more A focus of the anniversary party was the Celebratory Big Cake, details from every angle. After the grazing dinner with fabulous commissioned by Seattle Dame and former Director-at-large, Philadelphia fare, the “big cake” was served with Häagen-Dazs ice Alice Gautsch Foreman. Her generous donation and request cream. Highlights of the evening included a surprise visit from for a special tiered cake germinated into a competition at The Benjamin Franklin and Betsy Ross and a Mummers parade and Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. Alice’s donation, string band. The entertainers, dressed in colorful, flamboyant in memory of her husband, Bill, not only covered the cost of costumes, have traditions that date back at least to the Middle Ages.

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 17 Dames Who Farm

he 2000 Green Tables showcased farmer Dames whose various agrarian Tenterprises include heirloom vegetable production, fruit and livestock. We should get to know the Dames who work as growers and in related food professions. Moderators included Green Tables Co-Chairs, Hilary Baum (New York), Barbara Petit (Atlanta). Dame farmers on the panel were Linda Geren (Philadelphia) of Highview Farms, Melissa Smith (Philadelphia) and Jennifer Verrill (Boston), who couldn’t be present but a knowledgeable representative took her place. Top: Phyllis Frucht donated some of the proceeds from her jewelry sales to LDEI projects.

Botom: Dianne Hogerty, Eileen Talanian, BREAKFAST Lynn Fredericks

LUNCH “Use it or lose it!” by Hayley Matson-Mathes o U R A ging S enses and c U I S I N E (Hawaii) by Brenda McDowell (Chicago) This popular adage, as the research from the Presented by: Sanne Boseveldt, PhD Postdoctoral Fellow Monell Taste Center explained at the Philadelphia Monell Center (Philadelphia, PA) LDEI conference, really does impact -- positively or negatively -- one’s sense of taste. he Monell Center was founded more than 40 years ago, dedicated to basic research Tinto the senses of taste and smell. Sadly, our sensory functions begin to decline TheU S Census predicts that within 10 years, for the first time in history, old people will at the ripe young age of twenty. One of the con- outnumber young people across the globe. And with aging, comes a decline in all senses. sequences of aging is a reduced sense of smell Smell and taste are the main senses that affect flavor, with smell being the predominant and we need smell for the taste experience. Not component as evidenced by a simple exercise: Hold your nose and put a jelly bean in exactly what the baby boomer Dames at my your mouth; it’s difficult to identify the flavor. When you release your nose, the flavor is table wanted to hear. The Taste Center experts, immediately more pronounced. however, point out that their message is not one As we age, we are less sensitive to odors; we perceive them as less intense. However we of gloom and doom. are more able to identify food odors than nonfood odors, even in older age. And, women Much like going to the gym, conducting physical are better at identifying odors than men. exercise, or doing Sudoku brain teasers, our palates Our taste buds are also less sensitive as we age, but sensitivity to sweet, sour, salty, bitter also benefit from a sensory workout. T he good and umami receptors does not decline equally. For example, the sweet receptors remain stable throughout life while sour receptors decline most. news -- our sensory acuity can be modulated by Flavor perception also changes with age: Pleasant flavors become less pleasant while repeated exposure. Science speak for just do it! unpleasant flavors become less unpleasant. We shift to a more neutral flavor perception, You now have the perfect excuse to try new and and we’re inclined to enjoy foods less and eat less which can lead to weight loss and nu- exciting tastes, but just remember to call it training. tritional deficiencies (also called anorexia of aging). Caloric needs decrease with aging, If you have more questions on this important therefore the intake of nutrients decreases. So as we age, food intake should be modified topic, visit the Monell Chemical Senses Center to be lower in calorie density, higher in nutrient density, and include more aromatics. at www.monell.org.

Susan Slack

Sanne Boseveldt, Ph.D. spoke about the inherent problems of our aging senses after the elegant lunch. Dames dined on succulent pasture-raised veal. (L-R) Marie Kelley and Lori Dunn of Strauss Veal. Grand Dame Shirley and Archie Corriher having a grand time. In back: (L-R) Toria Emas and Alice G. Forman. Seated (L-R): Allison Awerbuch, Abigail Kirsch and Chef Rebecca Troelstra (BC) - one of LDEI’s first Legacy Award winners.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI Council of Delegates Meeting by Greg Jewell, Executive Director DEI’s annual business meeting (the Council of Delegates) took place Lon October 3 as part of the Philadelphia conference. Approximately 90 members took part in the two-hour meeting, which featured a review of the year’s successes, an approval of the 2010 budget and the ratification (L-R) Margaret Kuo, Cynthia Glover, Gail Forman, Karen Vartan, Liesel Flash- of a new chapter charter. Here are the highlights: enberg, CiCi Williamson. Photo: Susan Slack (not pictured) The Council of Delegates approved the budget for 2010. The most controversial issue within the budget was the decision to eliminate the While commuting back to Washington D.C. after biography section from the LDEI Membership Directory starting in 2010. the conference, 7 Dames detoured to Wayne, Pa. to The biographies are available online at www.ldei.org. The move will cut the enjoy a special lunch at Margaret Kuo’s Dragon’s Lair, cost of directory production by one third. There was significant discussion where the famous restaurateur joined her guests in around the issue of an online directory versus a printed one. The decision was made to continue with the printed directory. the elegant first floor dining room. Everyone raved A newly formed chapter in the northeast region petitioned the board and over the exquisite Chinese dishes: juicy Shanghai the Council of Delegates for an LDEI charter. The group, known as the Steamed Buns, Hot & Sour Shiitaki Mushroom Soup, Northeast Chapter, is an outgrowth of the Boston chapter. The Council of seafood dumplings, Shanghai noodles and fried Delegates unanimously approved the new charter, bring the total number Chinese crullers with sweet soymilk, to name a few. of LDEI chapters to 27. Dame Margaret, a trained chemist, was called “a Also of note… one-woman dynasty” by the Philadelphia magazine. The Legacy Awards, which had an inaugural run in 2009, will continue She has been the featured chef at a James Beard in 2010. Foundation’s Chinese New Year dinner. The Global Culinary Initiatives Committee will try to connect LDEI to the diverse communities it serves as it moves forward. There is a movement to create a forum for cross-chapter issues. Paula Hamilton made a presentation on this need and used the San Francisco Chapter’s work with the reformation of the school lunch program as an example. She also noted that LDEI should leverage relationships with other professional organizations. Zola Nichols invited all to join her and the Palm Springs Chapter for the 2010 LDEI Annual Conference, October 21-24 in Palm Springs at the Hyatt Grand Champions Resort and Spa. A Brunch to Remember!

by Louise Ceccarelli (Philadelphia) he two dozen conference attendees and their guests who attended Tthe Post Conference Brunch at Di Bruno’s on Sunday, October 5th were treated to extra-ordinary fare, which followed the personal tour and history of the original family business and current enterprises. The story of the Di Bruno Brothers was presented by Emilio Mignucci, a current generation of the Di Bruno Family. The chefs didn’t plan your typical brunch menu. It consisted of eight small plate courses, each compelling and creatively composed. Each plate of food was highly sophisticated with a fusion of ingredients that invited delight and tasting. Each course was unique and delicious. Among the courses, were: steak and quail egg, luscious French toast, lobster salad, duck pate, homemade fresh cheese, and unique fresh fruit pizza for desert. For more about Di Bruno Brothers– Culinary Pioneers Since 1939, visit www.dibruno.com BethAllen

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 19 SHIRLEY CORRIHER HONORED AT THE GRANDE DAME AWARD DINNER

by Lori Willis (St. Louis) xcitement grew each day of the Philadel- Ephia 2009 annual conference, leading up to the culminating event, the Grande Dame dinner honoring Shirley Corriher of Atlanta, Georgia. In typical Les Dames fashion, the drama of this evening was played out on two very different stages. The evening began with a reception at the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. Dressed in evening finery, Dames were transported to the Center’s glass domed Rooftop Garden, offering a panoramic view of the historic Philadelphia skyline and later, bathed everyone in the glow of sunset. It was a cue for the well-heeled guests to start the short walk down Broad Street to the next venue. It seemed only fitting that the Les Dames event was the first to be held in the newly renovated Ballroom of the Academy of Music. The blue and gold appointed room had the air of a grand theater. Dames, including outgoing President Suzanne Brown, took the opportunity to move from table-to-table to greet friends and con- gratulate the evening’s honoree. Following the elegant dinner and into the des- share thoughts of those who inspire her to do As everyone emptied out of the banquet and sert, the lights dimmed and a video biography all that she does in service to others. into the waiting buses, the room echoed with of Shirley allowed friends and colleagues an Suzanne Brown then took the stage and, laughter as the joyful Atlantans jumped from opportunity to retrace the steps of her lifetime after recapping the past year of challenges and their seats and cheered. of contributions to the food community and successes, passed the gavel to Teresa Farney, the Photos by Susan Slack and Lori Willis. Special to analyze her impact on culinary arts. Shirley international organization’s new president from thanks to Lori, who contributed many of the great floated up to the podium and used her time to Colorado Springs, Colorado. photos in this feature.

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International SHIRLEY CORRIHER HONORED AT THE GRANDE DAME AWARD DINNER

LDEI Past Presidents at the Grande Dame Dinner. Back row (L-R) : Claire Boassi (Philadel- phia), Katherine Newell Smith (Washington, D.C.), Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago) and CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.). Front row (L-R): Do- lores Snyder (Dallas), Toria Emas (Chicago), Dianne Hogerty (Kansas City).

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 21 Compiled by Chandra Ram (Chicago)

Farnsworth, Trea- ATLANTA surer; Paula Biehler, Barb Pires, President PR and Marketing; The Atlanta Chapter held a culinary yard sale at the Peachtree Farmers Maribel Rivero, Pro- Market on Saturday, Oct. 17, to benefit the Farmers Flood Relief Fund grams Director; and that will assist the many local farmers that have suffered devastating Paula Angerstein, losses from the recent rains in Georgia. The total estimated loss of in- Webmaster. come and farm damage price tag on the farms is over $50,000. $2280 At the annual will go to the farms that were affected from LDEI Atlanta. Thanks to Escoffier Dinner at all the Dames that donated cookbooks, kitchenware, linens and time The Carillon on No- for this worthy cause. vember 2, the Austin Will Harris of White Chapter welcomed Austin Dames “Cook with the Book” at Central Market Cooking School Oak Pastures, hosted a its newest mem- on October 9, 2009 (L-R): Dawn Orsak, Pamela Nevarez-Fisher, Gina Burchenal group of Dames on Sun- bers: Toni Tipton- day, Oct. 25, for a tour Martin, Margaret of his family’s cattle farm Vera, Marla Camp, and Jane Nickles. For the terrific dinner prepared and lunch on the “patio”. by The Carillon’s Executive Chef Josh Watkins, Cathy Strange provided We were treated to steaks cheeses, Jackie Gulledge supplied meze, Teresa Wilson provided quail, cooked on the grill by Will and Aimee Olson prepared dessert. Erin Taylor and listened to his great Austin Dames are extremely proud of Austinite , one of the two national recipients of the 2009 LDEI Legacy Award in Culinary and stories of how he has taken Wine, open to non-Dames in the industry. Taylor traveled to Washington White Oak Pastures to the State in September for a weeklong grape-harvest internship with Kay success it is. White Oak Simon of Chinook Vineyards and Tris Gelles of Klipspan Vineyard. Pastures works in coopera- Taylor, a Texas Culinary Academy (TCA) graduate with an AOS degree tion with nature to produce in Le Cordon Blue Culinary Arts, has been director of career services premium quality beef that for TCA since 2005. She’s completed Wine Fundamentals Levels One is healthy, nutritious, and and Two from the International Sommelier Guild and has a Wine Basics good to eat. Care is given degree from the Wine School of Philadelphia. to ensure that all of the On Oct. 9, at the Central Market Cooking School in Austin, 32 production practices are students learned and tasted recipes from the Cooking with Les Dames economically practical, d’Escoffier cookbook.Dawn Orsak, who contributed to the book, along ecologically sustainable, with Pamela Nevarez-Fisher and Gina Burchenal, presented a menu and that the animals are that included Seasonal Mushroom Galette in a Cornmeal Crust, Creamy always humanely treated. Roasted Parsnip Soup with Chevre Walnut Crostini, Salmon Fillets baked Left: (L-R) Barb Pires, Tamie Cook, Stacy Zeigler, Liz Cipro, in Grape-Leaf Wraps, Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Swedish Meatballs with Because of the timing of our Mary Reynolds Kneeling: Beverly Seckinger trip, we saw many of the Eastern European Sauerkraut, and Peach Tree Country Kitchen’s Bread new calves that were born Right: (L-R) Gena Berry, Barb Pires, Will Harris, Andrea Pudding with Jack Daniel’s Caramel Sauce. Proceeds from class enroll- Case, Denise Quigley, Jenna Quigley, within the past 10 days. ment, along with cookbook and apron sales, earned approximately $1700 Sumner Calhoun, Elizabeth Lee, Gina Hopkins for the Austin Dames’ scholarship fund. The Dames are very grateful for Austin Central Market’s support. Mary Margaret Pack With sleeves rolled up and lots of projects in the works, the Austin Dames’ Boston 2009-10 officers have assumed their positions. Co-Presidents Gina Emily Schwab, Board member (Public Relations) Burchenal and Beth Pav take over leadership duties from Past President In May the Boston Chapter celebrated Ana Costa’s 90th birthday. The Aimee Olson; they’ll be aided by Cathy Strange, First Vice-President; Dames presented Ana with a saber to commemorate the evening, which Denice Woods, Second Vice-President; Kitty Crider, Secretary; Karen was also used to demonstrate the dramatic “sabering of a magnum of

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International champagne.” Two of the most prestigious Boston gastronomic organiza- IACP/Julia Child cookbook award winner Susan G. Purdy (New York) tions also honored Ana and her accomplishments: the Boston Baillage de with her latest of 30 cookbooks, Pie in the Sky: 100 Cakes, Pies, Cookies, la Chaine des Rotisseurs named her an Officier and a Commandeur XX Breads, and Pastries Home-Tested For Baking at Sea Level, 3,000, 5,000, Annees; Les Amis d’Escoffier Society Boston, founded in 1938, named 7,000, and 10,000 Feet and Anywhere in Between; her its first ever Honorary Member. IACP/Julia Child award winner Beverly Cox (Colorado), the food Kelly Delaney was interviewed by Pat Whitley for his restaurant show editor of Native Peoples Magazine and co-author of 13 cookbooks, that airs every Sunday on local radio. It can be found at www.nedine.com including her latest, Eating Cuban, 120 Authentic Recipes from the Streets by following the link for past radio shows and then Cakes for Occasions, of Havana to American Shores; the name of Kelly’s shop. She also did a segment in October on Fox 25 Rebecca Rather (San Antonio), proprietor of the Rather Sweet Bakery (Boston) Morning News and showed the public how they too can create and Café with her cookbook Pastry Queen Parties: Entertaining Friends delicious and ghoulish Halloween treats. and Family, Texas Style; Jerry Anne Di Vecchio,(San Francisco), a food-wine authority and writer, who co-authored You‘ve Got Recipes with Francoise Kirkman and Charleston was part of the team that created Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier. Right (L-R): Stacey Denaux of Crisis Ministries’ Family Center accepts a contribution of $1,500 from Deidre Schipani Hawaii on behalf of the Charleston Chapter. Bottom: The Charleston Chapter welcomes Hayley Matson-Mathes eight new Dames. Back Row (L-R): Kathleen New Members Welcomed with Sweet Jazz Rogers, Angela McCravitz, Rachel Byrne. Middle Row (L-R): Teresa Taylor, Donna Chef Abigail Langlas welcomed 25 members to Sweet Jazz at CAKE Gustafson. Front Row (L-R): Peg Moore, WORKS. Sweet jazz was complemented by Dame Abi’s sweet creations; Danielle Wecksler and Sarah O’Kelley and a selection of gourmet pupus from Soleil Fusha, Foodland; a coffee Past President Deidre Schipani presentation by Shawn Steiman, author of “The Hawaii Coffee Book,” and a wine tasting. Twelve new members were welcomed.

Colorado Kuvy Ax Dames d’Escoffier from all over the U.S. came to sign copies of their Photo 1: The Hawaii Chapter gathered cookbooks at the fifth annual Denver Food & Wine Classic at the Met- at the Halekulani Hotel on October 28 for their annual Escoffier dinner. T he ropolitan State College of Denver on September 12, 2009. Copies of event was hosted by Halekulani Food Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier were available for sale. Marlys Connor and Beverage Director, Dame Sabine organized the book signing por- Glissmann, tion of the event, which included Photo 2: Hawaii Dames visited CAKE several Dames from around the WORKS. Photo 3: Hawaii’s new Dames enjoyed country: the CAKE WORKS event. Grande Dame Shirley O. Photo 4: Hawaii Dames Dorothy Colby, Corriher, (Atlanta) has won Hayley Matson-Mathes, Jean Hull, Fern multiple James Beard and other Tomisato and Kay Tokunaga and guests enjoyed a social evening by attending awards for her cookbooks, Cook- the Julie & Julia movie and dinner Wise and Bakewise; at James Beard award-winning Chef Mavro’s Restaurant. Dinner menu . . . Boeuf Bourguignon and Tarte Tatin, but, Top (L-R): Denver Food & Wine Classic: of course! Rebecca Rather (San Antonio); Mary Mino and Rebecca Pasquariello (Denver). Bottom: Denver Food & Wine Classic: Michaele Musel (Denver ); Jerry Anne Di Vecchio (San Francisco); Shirley O. Corriher (Atlanta Chapter); and Susan Purdy (New York).

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 23 chapter should be published in the November/December issue. Thanks Palm Springs to June Hayes, Pat Mozersky and Tracey Maurer for moving and Zola Nichols shaking and planting the seed about our chapter. Several members of the Palm Springs Chapter and their guests enjoyed the We voted to have a continued presence at the 18th Annual Herb filmJulie & Julia along with a sell-out crowd of local chefs, restaurateurs, food writers and self-proclaimed gourmets. Inspired by the martinis that Festival on October 17. Participation has been a tradition, but this Julie and Julia imbibed, the group headed to a nearby lounge after the year we used this opportunity to heighten awareness of our chapter, film for cocktails and appetizers and to discuss the fabulous performance it’s mission, vision and information about our second annual 2010 of Meryl Streep. Olives Ole’ fundraiser to be held March 27th. With a prime location for our booth, Diana Barrios Trevino, Nichole Bendele, Nancy Fitch and Di-Anna Arias handed out all of the 1500 beautiful postcards with mixed herb packets attached. Dames were able to tell visitors how to mix the herbs into Extra-Virgin Olive Oil for dipping, marinating, grilling and roasting.

The board of directors conducted a retreat on October 25 at Stony Ridge Ranch, home to Rollie Blackwell. The purpose was to finalize new Bylaws and Policies and Procedures that will be presented to the membership in January. Of course, we did not do all this hard work without eating! We feasted on a flavorful Moroccan inspired lunch prepared by Rollie. That evening, Naylene Dillingham prepared her signature Mac and Ernie’s Cabrito Burger at the end of a long workday.

Left: Dame Tracey Maurer snapped a shot of the hard working SA Chapter board of directors enjoying a glass of wine after a hard day at revising Bylaws & Policies and Procedures.

Right: Dame Rollie Blackwell at home in her Stony Ridge Ranch B & B kitchen. While the BOD worked, she also worked tirelessly on her roasted chicken with homemade preserved lemons and olives, zucchini & new potatoes with charmoula, cannellini bean salad with nigella seeds, Turkish salad, cherry tomato ice cream with white chocolate cranberry cookies. Arias.

Seattle Susy Davidson and Braiden Rex-Johnson Photo 1: (L-R): Palm Springs Vice President Nikki Bianchi, Treasurer Zola Nichols and Secretary Gail Nottbert stand in front of a Julie & Julia movie poster on the film’s opening day. In May, Dorene McTigue opened her home overlooking Lake Sam- Photo 2: (L-R): Palm Springs Dames Donna Curran, Gail Nottberg, Zola Nichols, a guest and Francine mamish for a program titled, “Getting to Know the Dames,” which Robertshaw attend the Julie & Julia movie. honored new inductees Pamela Montgomery, Anne Nisbet, and Joanne Herron. Members new and old discussed the chapter’s history, fundraising and scholarships, members’ commitment and involvement, San Antonio educational programs and meetings, recognition of current chapter Linda Triesch, Corresponding Secretary leaders, and the role of LEDI. Dorene The San Antonio Chapter celebrated fellow Dame Julia Child at the fired up her wood-burning pizza oven and opening of Julie & Julia on August 7. Members and guests attended the encouraged fellow Dames to create their movie followed by a private French-inspired after-party at WineStyles own –accompanied by wine made by Terry wine bar. French cheeses, pastries and wine were featured with the help McTigue and authentic gelato created by of Nancy Fitch and Chapter President Di-Anna Arias. Door prizes were Maria Coassin, owner of Gelatiamo. given to the best Julia Child/French inspired outfit. In June, the Seattle Chapter celebrated On September 21, we held the first New Member Orientation atLinda the Northwest’s iconic fish, salmon, at Triesch’s home. She and her husband Tom, along with Susan Johnson, Christine Keff’s Flying Fish restaurant prepared a delicious meal of marinated grilled red fish tacos - caught, in downtown Seattle. Keff shared her cleaned and cooked by Tom. Well-attended by 24 Dames, the orienta- considerable knowledge about this legend- tion proved to be educational to new and current members. Jasmina ary fish – its lifecycle, the impact of the Wellinghoff, senior writer for theSan Antonio Woman magazine, attended environment and of politics on Pacific Christine Keff displays an to interview several members and learn about LDEI. The article on our 18-pound King salmon. 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International species, and its culinary importance – while filleting an 18-pound King. attendance. The beautifully decorated room featured Provencal theme A spirited discussion was followed by a tasting of four of the five Pacific centerpieces and an impressive Les Dames d’Escoffier ice sculpture. The species (King, Sockeye, Coho, and Chum) and dinner, which included spectacular dishes were prepared by Cordon Bleu Chef Morgan Nims, Salmon Cakes and Crispy Skin Salmon with Citrus-Olive Oil. assisted by her students, and were paired with fantastic wines. Associate In September, Seattle Dames and guests learned about the healing Dean Mohammad Qureshi and the students of the FIU Hospitality power of foods at a program hosted by Lisa Dupar at her Pomegranate and Management Program participated in serving the guests. Dinner Bistro in Redmond. Nutritional therapists led a discussion about foods Committee included organizers Dorothee Rubin and Ariana Kumpis; which naturally support individuals’ metabolic needs, as well as what can Marianne Langan, Silent Auction Chairperson; Irene Moore, Silent be learned from traditional diets of healthy, non-industrialized peoples. Auction Committee and PR Chairperson; Teena Borek; Priscilla Dames learned about optimal growing and preparation techniques and Bittson; Diane Campion; Simone Diament—who donated wines for feasted on nutrient-rich dishes such as organic pasture-raised beef broth the event—Marguerite Gil, Virginia Godoy, Juanita Plana, Denisse simmered for 60 hours to extract maximum minerals and gelatin, zingy Schnebly—who donated the dessert wine—and Terri Wallman, a kimchi, and coconut kefir. sommelier who guided guests through the wine pairings for the dinner. Dinner guests included an attaché of the French consulate, a representative of the Miami-Dade County Farm Bureau, and members of several South Florida French organizations. Assistant Dean Qureshi accepted a scholarship Irene Moore check for $2,000 for an FIU student, in memory of late Professor Marcel The South Florida Chapter hosted an Escoffier Celebration Dinner Escoffier, nephew of Auguste Escoffier, who was a professor at FIU. on Friday, Oct. 16, to commemorate the October birthday of Auguste In September, Simone Diament, Carole Kotkin, and Irene Moore Escoffier. The dinner was held in the ballroom of Florida International were invited as guests of the Italy America Chamber of Commerce in University’s Kovens Center in conjunction with the Florida International Miami on a “Buy FVG,” press trip to Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy. It University School of Hospitality and Le Cordon Bleu, with 72 guests in was sponsored by the Agencia Regionale Turismo Friuli-Venezia Giu- lia. The press trip was organized by FVG’s Agencia Regionale. There were150 attendees from all over Europe, but only five from the U.S., all from Miami. The Miami attendees, all members of the media, were selected for their wine and culinary credentials, and their portion of the press trip focused on the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area’s wine and food. Les Dames 09.MECH:Layout 1 8/12/09 12:17 PM Page 1 2009 LDEI PaRTNERS

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W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 25 HAWAII Abigail Langlas, Chef/Owner of Cakeworks Honolulu, created a ‘59 Cadillac Eldorado, for the 50th anniversary of the Hawaii Auto Dealers Associa- tion. (HADA). The front of the car was lemon buttercake with Lilikoi filling and the back portion was chocolate decadence. The caddy was 4 feet long. Abigail is the treasurer of the A pink Cadillac cake made by Abigail Langlas (R), Hawaii Hawaii Chapter. Compiled by LOS ANGELES Carrie Kommers, Director of dineLA, CiCi Williamson (2003 LDEI President) launched the first ever dineLA Restaurant Week Food Truck this fall. The truck BOSTON traveled throughout LA County with a Maria Speck, veteran journalist and food writer, different celebrity chef on board each day is currently working on a whole grain cookbook, doling out free tastes. Chefs included Eric forthcoming from Ten Speed Press. In addition, Eating Greenspan of The Foundry on Melrose, Well and Cooking Pleasures will publish whole grain Jason Johnston of Dakota at the Hol- feature stories and recipes of hers in the spring of lywood Roosevelt, and Alain Giraud of 2010. Having been raised in Germany and Greece, Anisette Brasserie. Maria’s cooking is inspired by the ease and appeal of Mediterranean cuisine and the centuries-old traditions MIAMI of preparing whole grain foods in Northern Europe. Larry Dunagan, president of the Dade County Farm Bureau, presents Maria Speck an Agricultural Advocacy Award to Ariana Kumpis. CHICAGO Ariana Kumpis was awarded an Agricultural Advocacy award by the Carrie Nahabedian, chef-co-owner of Chicago’s Dade County Farm Bureau in October 2009. Ariana volunteers her time Naha, was inducted into the Chicago Culinary Mu- teaching cooking and nutrition classes to farm workers at the Everglades seum Chefs Hall of Fame at a ceremony September Community Association in Florida City. She actively promotes South 22. Chicago Mayor Richard Daley upped the ante Dade growers to media, restaurants, and chefs. Dade County Farm Bureau even more, making the official proclamation that represents over 4, 000 members, and over 900 agricultural operations. September 22, 2009 was Carrie Nahabedian Day, in Dade County farmers provide an economic impact of over $2.57 billion recognition of her culinary skills and contributions to the local and state economy. www.dade-agriculture.org. to Chicago’s food community.

DALLAS Carrie Nahabedian Tina Wasserman (Dallas) seated with Bonnie Benwick. Standing left to right: CiCi Williamson, Beverly Brockus, Phyllis Frucht, Katherine Newell Smith, Sheilah Kaufman, Gail Forman and Jane Olmsted (all Washington, D.C.). Photo by CiCi Williamson. Tina Wasserman visited Washington, D.C., on the tour for her new book Entrée to Judaism: A Culinary Exploration of the Jewish Diaspora. The Washington, D.C. Chapter held a potluck dinner in her honor at Beverly Brockus’ home. LEFT: Ariana Kupis receives an Agricultural Advocacy award. RIGHT: Simone Diament, Carole Kotkin and Roberta Klugman had lunch at Taste of Sonoma. They picked up Chef/Owner Amryll Schwertner of Boulettes Larder and stopped off at the Cowgirl Creamery to visit Dame owner/cheesemakers Sue Conley and Peggy Smith. Front row (L-R): Dames Carole Kotkin (Miami), Roberta Klugman (SF), Simone Diament (Miami); back row Sue Conley (SF) and Peggy Smith (SF) in the San Fran- cisco Ferry St. Building.

NEW YORK Eileen Yin-Fei Lo announces the November 2009 publication of her 11th cookbook, Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking. The “Cantonese Julia Child” was featured in a documentary filmed in and around New York’s Chinatown markets and kitchens and in the China Institute in America to honor the occasion. Eileen and her husband visited Hong Kong to celebrate their 50th anniversary in the city where they were married. She also reported on Hong Kong’s food scene for Food Arts magazine for which she is an Asian authority.

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Lucy Wing has opened an Asian SAN Francisco restaurant in her hometown of Georgeanne Brennan announces the fall publication Superior, Arizona. The New York of two new cookbooks, Gather - Memorable Menus City food writer and editor owns for Entertaining Throughout the Seasons (Sasquatch, Jade Grill Asian BBQ, but other 2009) and Williams-Sonoma The Essentials of French family members have been involved. Cooking (Oxmoor, 2009). In November her ‘Provence The unique building was by Lucy’s in California’ culinary weekends were featured in brother David, a San Francisco ar- Gourmet magazine. chitect in. A niece designed the logo and menus. Two sisters in Portland Jeannette Ferrary read from her food-filled mem- Georgeanne Brennan and Seattle helped develop menu oir, Out of the Kitchen: Adventures of a Food Writer, recipes. A San Diego dietitian sister helped make the menu as healthy at the food and community center, 18 Reasons, at as possible. The restaurant project took 4 1/2 years. The varied foods San Francisco’s 2009 Litquake festival The Saturday evening session was and balancing of sweet, savory, spicy and sour flavors of Southeast Asia, devoted to the food writing genre from sustainable agriculture to eclectic reinterpreted, mingle in Jade Grill’s offerings to create an exceptional food blogs to memoir. and refreshing experience in the Arizona desert on U.S. Highway 60.

SAINT LOUIS Julia M. Usher is pleased to report that her new book, Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to Share Through- out the Year (released August 2009), is already in its third printing as of September. Julia is a 2008 James Beard Media Awards Finalist, a Director of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and Contributing Editor at Dessert Professional. Julia M. Usher Lori Willis, Kathy Gottsacker and Vicki Decker-Smith are pleased to announce that their company, St. Louis-based Schnuck Markets, Inc., is the 2009 winner of the International Association of Food Protection’s Black Pearl Award for Food Safety. According to Dianna Pasley, Schnucks Director of Food Safety, this prestigious award is an honor for the entire Schnucks team. Pasley said, “It is a direct result of the decision of company leaders to make food safety an integral part of the Schnucks culture by making training and education materials available to customers and SEATTLE to 15,500 associates across seven states.” Nicole Aloni launched a new blog, consciousfeast.com. It joins nicolealoni. net, where she continues to share her experiences as a food writer, media SAN ANTONIO spokesperson and culinary tour guide. The blog’s focus mirrors her book Sandy Winokur owner in progress and takes a sustainable approach to cooking and entertaining. of Sandy Oaks Olive Or- It contains recipes, essays, entertaining tips and living-green articles. chard, will host the San Antonio Chapter’s major Holly Smith was chosen as one of ten contestants this season on the fundraiser, “Olives Olé,” Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef”, which premiered on October 4, on March 27, 2010. On 2009, and was tied as the number one show in cable that evening. Holly September 2nd, workers won the 2008 James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef Northwest. and friends brought in Her Kirkland, Wash., restaurant, Cafe Juanita, was nominated for the the first of this year’s olive Foundation’s national “Best Restaurant Service” in 2009. harvest on large tarps, in baskets and even in WASHINGTON, D.C. their pockets. Olives were Nora Pouillon accepted the Genesis Award from Women Chefs & pressed in the brand new Restaurateurs-- which just might be her favorite honor to date. She has olive press flown into Texas earned kudos from the International Association of Culinary Profession- from Italy. After the bright als, the American Horticultural Society, the Campaign for Better Health, green oil began streaming the Organic Trade Association, and from D.C. Mayor Adrian Fenty for from the spigot, staff, environmental excellence. friends and fellow Dames got tastes of this year’s first Ann Yonkers was named by Washingtonian magazine as one of the 100 pressing. The harvest was most powerful women in Washington, D.C. Ann is Co-Director of nine a result of 11 years of hard Freshfarm Markets -- the newest one is near the White House. The Du- work building a healthy, pont Circle market has a customer base of more than 100,000 and was 10,000 tree olive orchard named by The Wall Street Journal and The Financial Times of London that is bearing fruit and as one of the top farmers’ markets in the country. Ann’s Co-Director is oil. www.sandyoaks.com Bernadine (Bernie) Prince (also Washington, D.C.).

W I N T E R Q U ARTERLY 2010 27 LDEI Ad Final.pdf 8/26/09 7:45:22 AM NEW YORK GETS What’s 6]\Sg A NEW WEB SITE the secret ^ZSOaS by Beth Allen • A complete review of the New York (Web Site Chair, New York) Chapter’s Scholarship Program, to boosting R]\¸bU] which awarded over $90,000 in he New York Chapter’s Web site—ldny. scholarships this year to young women org—has a brand new look, in fact a com- T pursuing careers in the food, wine and umami plete makeover. Its name and Web address have hospitality fields not changed, but almost everything else has. The • News of the launch of New York in chocolate? site is now where members go to buy tickets university’s Fales Library Initiative and for events, read the posting of the latest LDNY the creation of the Carol Brock/ New Journal and view photos from recent programs. Acquisitions Program The development of the new site has been an • LDNY’s press kit, hot off the press exciting adventure. It all began in April 2009 • The chapter’s Journals, both current when the Board of Directors agreed to work and past with NetLou.com, the vendor that created the • Published books of chapter members national LDEI site. Beginning with existing • Descriptions and photos of the Board of templates, New York’s Web committee set out Directors and Past Presidents to redesign the new site to reflect the chapter And much, much more!

K naturally. 2¸3aQ]T¿S`[S[PS`aO`S W\O^]eS`TcZ^]aWbW]\ b]SRcQObST]ZYaOP]cb bVWaQ`WbWQOZWaacS

B]ZSO`\[]`SObbS\R BVS:]aa]T0SSa( EVgO\R6]eb]1O`S aSaaW]\]\4`WROg =Qb]PS` \ROb (!O[ =`ZSO`\V]eb]VSZ^Ob VSZ^bVSV]\SgPSSaQ][ It’s true. A splash of naturally brewed Kikkoman Soy Sauce can boost the umami factor of just about anything. Not just Asian. Not just savory. Even chocolate. No wonder it’s the ﬂavor enhancing secret of chefs and home cooks worldwide.

dfvwines.com www.kikkomanusa.com 627>7\Q

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LDEI Ad Final.pdf 8/26/09 7:45:22 AM

What’s 6]\Sg In the secret ^ZSOaS Memoriam to boosting R]\¸bU] umami Dame Lee Wooding in chocolate? (NEW YORK CHAPTER)

K naturally. 2¸3aQ]T¿S`[S[PSàO`S W\O^]eS`TcZ^]aWbW]\ by Eileen Talanian (Philadelphia) b]SRcQObST]ZYaOP]cb t is with profound sadness that I write this memorial for Dame Lee Wooding. bVWaQ`WbWQOZWaacS I Lee was a woman of immense generosity both intellectually and emotionally. She was the first to welcome a new face, with a smile and friendly chatter that B]ZSO`\[]`SObbS\R made even the shyest people feel comfortable, never forgetting a name or the BVS:]aa]T0SSa( important details of those she met. EVgO\R6]eb]1O`S She was passionate about food and wine and everything culinary. An ardent aSaaW]\]\4`WROg cooking teacher, Lee enthusiastically educated and informed her students with culinary insights and luscious recipes, inviting them to share her passion and learn =Qb]PS` \ROb (!O[ from her exquisite palate. =`ZSO`\V]eb]VSZÔb But the most striking features of her personality were her loyalty and support, VSZ^bVSV]\SgPSSaQ][ both for her close friends and for the organization to which she was fully commit- It’s true. A splash of naturally ted, Les Dames d’Escoffier. Lee served on the board for the Philadelphia chapter, and when she moved to Connecticut, for the board of the New York chapter, and brewed Kikkoman Soy Sauce can volunteered for international committees. boost the umami factor of just about Lee requested that there not be a fuss made when she died, no funeral or anything. Not just Asian. Not just memorial service, and her family has honored that request. But they have found savory. Even chocolate. No wonder it’s a method for us to remember her in a way that she would have accepted and the flavor enhancing secret of chefs embraced. An organization in New Brunswick, where Lee grew up, provides food and home cooks worldwide. for the homeless, and also teaches indigent people how to perform in the kitchen, providing them with job-seeking skills. The organization has agreed to apply any funds donated in Lee’s name to the kitchen skills program. Donations may be made in Lee’s name to: Elijah’s Promise, 211 Livingston Ave., New Brunswick, NJ 08901. This is truly a fitting way to remember Lee. http://www.elijahspromise.net/index.htm dfvwines.com www.kikkomanusa.com 627>7\Q LDEI Ad Final.pdf 8/26/09 7:45:22 AM

What’s 6]\Sg the secret ^ZSOaS to boosting R]\¸bU] umami in chocolate? Deadlines SPRING QUARTERLY, 2010...... JANUARY 15, 2010 SUMMER, 2010...... APRIL 15, 2010 AUTUMN, 2010...... JULY 15, 2010 Photography/Images E-mail photos must be properly focused and in color

thePast ﬂavor President enhancing Suzanne secret Brown of chefs writes, “Within our chapters, there is so much andinternational home cooks knowledge worldwide. that benefits our membership and communities.” Dames, won’t you please share the stories of your chapter’s involvement with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers, fostering new friendships and better international understanding. Your stories will be printed in the 2010 Spring Quarterly. For more information, read dfvwines.com Suzanne’swww.kikkomanusa.com story in the 2009 Fall Issue, on page 16. A Quarterly archive is available at the LDEI website under Our Members. (ldei.org) 627>7\Q

30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Les Dames 09.MECH:Layout 1 8/12/09 12:17 PM Page 1 2009 LDEI PaRTNERS

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CMY

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT: For more inFormation, contact: Mary Bartz National Cattlemen’s Beef AssociationDirector, Food Communications 303-694-0305 National Cattlemen’s Beef Association [email protected] 507-227-3166 Web: BeefitsWhatsForDinner.comBeefItsWhatsForDinner.com | m | Fundedobile: by The Beef Checkoff Funded by The Beef Checkoff

14-0570-LDEI-AD.indd 1 9/1/2009 2:30:23 PM Atlanta Austin PRESORTED Boston Les Dames d’Escoffier International FIRST CLASS British Columbia, Canada P.O. Box 4961 US POSTAGE Charleston Louisville, KY 40204 PAID Chicago NEW ALBANY, IN Cleveland/Northeast Ohio PERMIT #62 Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America Los Angeles/Orange County Minneapolis/St. Paul Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle South Florida St. Louis Washington, D.C.

CONFERENCE 2010 OCTOBER 21-24

The Palm Springs Chapter invites you to our beautiful oasis in the California desert for the 2010 LDEI Conference. Our desert destination has many unique features that encompass the village ambiance of Palm Springs, restaurants of the River Mall in Rancho Mirage, luxury shops on El Paseo in Palm Desert and the fabulous Hyatt Grand Champions Resort, Villas and Spa in Indian Wells - our conference location. In the midst of a stunning desert landscape, the opulent 45 acre resort features lush gardens, sparkling fountains, a celebrated art collection and a 30,000 square- foot, state-of-the-art Agua Serena Medical and Skin Spa.

The fertile valley is surrounded by a majestic alluvial plain, banked by steep ravines and lofty mountain peaks that soar over ten thousand feet above the oasis floor. There are ancient palm groves, hot springs and an abundance of plants and wild life. Nature provides the perfect setting for a ride to the top of the mountain in a tram, a hike through the Living Desert Park, golf, tennis, hot-air ballooning or a midnight swim.

The area’s cultural heritage is a blend of the old and the new. Native American Indians laid claim to this desert paradise but established the tradition of coexistence when the first settlers arrived in the 1880s. Today the tribal governments work hand in hand with the city governments to ensure the protection of resouces that created the valley, while building for the future. Their casinos and hotels provide entertainment, and are a source of revenue for their tribal members, local schools, hospitals and charitable organizations. The area abounds with museums and examples of mid-century modern architecture, recognized by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Plan to be with us in 2010. We truly have something for everyone to enjoy.

Zola Nichols