GABBING WITH GAGA WWD CHATS WITH THE POP PRINCESS ABOUT CHRISTMAS IN NEW YORK. PAGE 9 BLACK FRIDAY COUNTDOWN: THE DEALS ARE BIGGER AND THE WWD HOURS ARE LONGER. RETAIL’S BIGGEST DAY DRAWS NEAR. PAGE 2

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

MAINSTREAM GOES UPSTREAM Price, Premium Effect Lift Denim’s Profile For mainstream brands, that By ARNOLD J. KARR means a sharper focus on nonindigo colors, a trend that caught on more DEMAND FOR FASHION jeans is strongly than expected earlier this expanding beyond the premium mar- year, and greater emphasis on nov- ket and right into the mainstream. elty pocket and stitching treatments, Key factors influencing the de- stretch and fit. Vendors are finding mand include higher prices for com- that the increases they are trying to modities as well as the power of the pass along to retailers — and con- premium market to drive trends. sumers — are more palatable when While premium jeans compa- there’s a fashion story to be told. nies such as J Brand and True “There’s certainly price resis- Religion continue to set the fashion tance among lower-income shop- pace in the denim world — with a pers,” said Angelo LaGrega, presi- broader range of colors, silhouettes dent of VF Jeanswear Americas, and fits — the firms focused on the VF Corp. unit that markets more moderate price points were Lee and Wrangler in the region. forced to elevate their prices this “In the midtier, though, we can year because of escalating costs for get the higher price as long as we cotton, labor and transportation, can catch consumers’ eyes and de- and now are under greater pres- light them. The consumer is buy- sure to provide more fashion looks ing more now because they want and greater detailing. SEE PAGE 6 IN WWD TODAY

McQ Comes Into Its Own Page 7 FASHION:Alexander McQueen’s DIOR/BEAUTYWINGNY.COM younger line, McQ, is branching out with FOR a show at London Fashion Week and the

opening of its first stand-alone store. MCKNIGHT

Keds Links With LF USA Page 7 RYAN FASHION:The 95-year-old Keds brand is BY introducing sportswear for the first time, debuting on Black Friday exclusively at Opening Ceremony. ▲

Faux Fur in the Spotlight Page 8 LEGAL: The Humane Society has filed a petition with the Federal Trade Practical Commission against 11 retailers for alleged false advertising and mislabeling of fur-trimmed products. Magic

The sturdy anorak has been stripped down and chiced up for spring. Here, Tess Giberson’s polyester and cotton jacket, silk chiffon skirt and leather pants with Mara Hoffman’s silk tank and AR’s chiffon MAKEUP PROFESSIONNEL/BEAUTYWINGNY.COM; L’OREAL FOR DIMAGGIO JOSEPH layered shirt. Nicholas K shoes. For more, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE BY HAIR ERIKA/NEXT; MODEL: 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 WWD.COM Holiday Promotional Frenzy in Full Swing Celebs Take to Facebook year, so we shared our Black Friday specials earlier than By SHARON EDELSON ever so they can plan ahead.” Layaway has been popular For Cyber Monday Sales at Wal-Mart throughout the third quarter and was high- THERE ARE LESS THAN 48 hours until Black lighted during the company’s earnings call last week. Friday, and the deals are coming fast and furious on Forever 21 is pulling out all the stops with special By DAVID LIPKE the Web, TV and newspapers. prices and gifts-with-purchase. “The mood is really On Monday, retailers began leaking their Black good,” said Linda Chang, who oversees marketing and A QUARTET OF STARLETS are slated to add sparkle to Friday promotions to give consumers a chance to plot is the daughter of founder Don Chang. “Traffic has re- Cyber Monday when Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Kate shopping strategies and compare prices. Many brick- ally picked up, especially this past weekend.” Bosworth and Rachel Bilson participate in a Facebook and-mortar stores are also offering Black Friday deals Chang said she’s concerned about the economy and broadcast for their respective fashion ventures with online, some a day early. events in Washington, but “that’s not really our tar- BeachMint Inc. Stores are opening earlier than ever, but there’s get demo. I’m praying that they’ll figure things out in The fashionable foursome will appear from 10 a.m. to been some backlash. Traditionalists complain that the D.C. Customers are learning to be a little smarter and noon, Pacific time, Monday on a streaming broadcast on extended Black Friday shopping hours are literally eat- sharper about their purchases and that’s why we’re facebook.com/stylemint. A downloadable application will ing into Thanksgiving. A Target worker disgruntled over seeing an uptick. We and other retailers were seeing enable real-time shopping and exclusive deals to stream stores opening at midnight, delivered petitions with October sales and saying there was a slump in the concurrently to the broadcast. A “buy now” button will 190,000 signatures to Target Corp.’s headquarters in market a little bit. As we’re coming into Black Friday, allow viewers to purchase directly from the Facebook page Minneapolis on Monday. “The vast majority of our team we’re starting to see sales again.” rather than redirecting to the StyleMint e-commerce site. members have shown overwhelming support for our Thomson Reuters is forecasting same-store sales “We launched StyleMint as an online brand to take advan- Black Friday plans,” a Target spokeswoman said. “Our growth for November at 3.2 percent, despite a difficult tage of the incredible trend in social commerce. This event team members feel this is the big day of the holiday and comparison from November 2010’s 5.5 percent. is a perfect example of why we were excited to work with an get really pumped up for working.” Target said guests The NPD Group reported that the conversion rate innovative company like BeachMint,” said Mary-Kate Olsen. expressed a preference for shop- — the percentage of engaged The Olsens, Bosworth and Bilson will participate via ping at midnight rather than get- shoppers who actually made a prerecorded segments that will be intercut with live com- ting up in the middle of the night. purchase after entering a brick- mentary from Hillary Kerr and Katherine Power of the Cyber Monday 2010 grabbed and-mortar store — in the week fashion blog WhoWhatWear. The duo will moderate the live headlines with spending sur- ended Monday ticked up to 69.1 portion of the broadcast and interact with viewers from passing $1 billion, the heaviest percent from 69 percent the pre- BeachMint’s Santa Monica, spending day in online history vious week. The online share of Calif., headquarters. up to that point, according to buying visits last week rose to Several of the celebri- ComScore. This year, retailers 12.8 percent from 12.5 percent, ties may call in during the want to win the battle in stores indicating a slight drop in the broadcast, along with other and in cyberspace, as evidenced share of actual stores. surprise guests, said James by robust inventories, myriad pro- “During this pre-Black Friday Volturo, chief marketing of- motions and free shipping offers. period, online continues to make ficer at BeachMint. J.C. Penney is taking aim at more and more connections with The Olsens partnered both constituencies. Its Black consumers, particularly in the spe- with BeachMint earlier this Friday deals will be available a cialty store space,” said NPD chief spring to launch StyleMint, day early on jcp.com. There will Black Friday weekend has spilled into industry analyst Marshal Cohen. which sells T-shirts for be more than 500 Black Friday Thursday for many retailers, like Macy’s. “The big question is, can they main- $29.99, shipping a new option offers such as women’s boots for tain that momentum as consumers once a month to customers $29.99, Barbie and Fisher Price toys, $3.99 and a wom- start to look to full-line retail sites that will be offering STEVE EICHNER who opt into the program. en’s Xersion packable down jacket, $39.88. greater deals on everything including the kitchen sink.” Ashley Olsen and The BeachMint model utiliz- Mary-Kate Olsen

According to Shop.org’s eHoliday Survey, conduct- Department stores registered an improvement in PHOTO BY es social media, videos and ed by BIGresearch, 51 percent of online retailers sur- conversion for the week, to 42 percent from 38 per- an interactive interface to veyed will offer promotions on Thanksgiving and 92.2 cent, while mass merchants and apparel specialty market the Olsens’ celebrity and personality to shoppers. percent of online merchants will offer special promo- stores were unchanged at 73 percent and 40 percent, The company first launched with a jewelry site called tions at some point during the Thanksgiving weekend. respectively. Mass merchants’ conversion rates tend JewelMint in partnership with Bosworth in October The National Retail Federation is projecting an to be higher because of the grocery items carried in 2010. A shoe site, called ShoeMint, will debut Thursday increase in shoppers from 138 million last year to 152 their stores. However, shopping visits declined at mass in partnership with Bilson and Steve Madden. A beauty million this year. Among those surveyed, 33 percent merchants while increasing at beauty specialty stores, site, called BeautyMint, launched last month in partner- said they plan to shop during the weekend, up from 27 factory outlets and sporting goods stores. ship with Jessica Simpson, who is not participating in the percent in 2010. Cohen said the results suggest that lower-end con- Cyber Monday promotion. “We’re very confident,” said a Macy’s Inc. spokesman. sumers are “catching their breath before stepping BeachMint is working on the live broadcast with “We have great assortments and great marketing for into the stores for the weekend bonanza. Secondly, LiveStream and R to Z Media, a marketing firm founded in Black Friday through the holiday season. We’re prepared. we see that department stores and selective specialty August by Randi Zuckerberg, the older sister of Facebook Last year we opened at 4 a.m. We listened to the custom- stores are starting to gain momentum into holiday.” founder and chief executive officer Mark Zuckerberg. er, and this year, we’re opening at midnight. We saw a lot Olive & Bette’s, a New York specialty chain, said people “BeachMint and its partners are transforming a time of younger people who really enjoy shopping at that time are buying. “Department stores have started their she- where people typically shop alone into a live online of day. They don’t go to bed. We’ll have a small number of nanigans early, so we match any price that our customers event where they’ll be shopping alongside their favorite stores open 24 hours on the last few days leading up to find elsewhere,” said Stacey Pecor, founder. “Bergdorf ’s designers,” said Zuckerberg. Christmas. Younger millennial customers like the round- is on sale, Neiman’s is on sale and Bloomingdale’s is on “Working with Facebook, LiveStream and R to Z allows the-clock shopping. They appreciate the choices.” sale. You’re training the customer that the fourth quarter BeachMint to leverage some of today’s most engaging tech- Wal-Mart is firing the starting gun on Thursday at is on sale. We’re having a good season and prices don’t nologies to bring commerce to Facebook and interact with 10:00 p.m. with doorbusters such as a 19-inch Sansui seem to be an issue with consumers as they were two or our members in a way that’s never been done before,” said HDTVs for $98 and Samsumg 51-inch plasma TV for $498. three years ago. We’re starting to sell resort early. I think Josh Berman, co-founder and ceo of BeachMint. “The majority of the response [on Monday and Tuesday] it’s going to be a good season, it’s just harder than usual.” Berman, a co-founder of MySpace, launched has been very positive,” said a Wal-Mart spokeswoman. The wrangling in Washington doesn’t seem to be impacting BeachMint in June 2010 with partner Diego Berdakin, “Feedback from customers told us that they would rather consumers. “It’s become background noise. I don’t think it also a veteran of MySpace. The two have raised $38.5 stay up late than get up early, hence the 10 p.m. opening. affects their ability to take out their credit card. million for their company in several rounds of venture We know our customers are watching every penny this — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ARNOLD J. KARR funding, according to TechCrunch.

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For more infomation contact Pamela Firestone at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected] 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011

Cynthia Steffe’s nylon anorak, China Bones by Lindsay Jones’ silk chiffon dress, Emerson’s cotton and metal skirt and Richard Chai Love’s cotton tank. French Kande necklace; Rebecca Taylor shoes. ▲

Rebecca Taylor’s nylon anorak, AR’s silk chiffon and cashmere cardigan, Obesity and Speed’s silk chiffon dress and Peter Som’s cotton elastane skirt. Mandy Coon bracelet; Alexander Wang ▲ shoes. Jenni Kayne’s cotton safari jacket over Green With Envy’s polyester anorak and Nicholas K’s viscose dress. ▲

Strings a storm, shield can they course PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE Of WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Improvd Valentino Vettori’s viscose sateen anorak and viscose chiffon pants, Timo Weiland’s cotton top and Lamb’s silk chiffon skirt. ▲

▲ Timo Weiland’s cotton anorak, Camilla and Marc’s acrylic and Tencel dress, LNA’s modal and spandex underdress and Nicholas K’s polyester leggings. Chrome Hearts necklace; Nicholas K shoes. ELIZABETH BONISTALL ASSISTANT: FASHION DIOR/BEAUTYWINGNY.COM; FOR Allende MCKNIGHT

Mayte RYAN

— BY

statement. fashion a mean wage also anoraks spring’s but MAKEUP PROFESSIONNEL/BEAUTYWINGNY.COM; L’OREAL FOR DIMAGGIO JOSEPH

Attached BY HAIR ERIKA/NEXT; MODEL: 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011

Silver has broadened its palette of blue hues and put more emphasis denim on pockets and stitching.

But a slower fashion cycle has permitted Silver to do more with quintes- sential jeans treatments, Jeans Upshift on Style such as various shades of indigo, pocket treatments and stitching. “The premi- {Continued from page one} brands,” the Warnaco official said. “This then you’d encounter push- um people hit a bump be- it rather than because they need it. Yo u is coming out at a more popular price back. What’s happening now cause there was too much have to give them merchandise they point — $59 to $69. We expect this to be is that we’re beginning to product without enough want to have.” a good replenishment business for us, see moderation in pricing, significant change,” Silver That’s translated into healthy gains in more so than a lot of our fashion denim. and the question we ask, but said. “My goal wasn’t to sales for the Lee brand, focused on midtier This is one more initiative about gener- not out loud, is whether we offer a premium jean at a stores, as market share for Lee women’s ating some real excitement and making reduce prices or not.” lower price but to always jeans has topped 20 percent after sitting at a splash on the floor. In women’s in par- Silver pointed out that offer a product that had stuff about 13 percent five years ago, and dollar ticular, it’s about product that makes you the spate of cotton increas- on it to make it look like volume is up in the high-single digits on a happy when you walk through a store, es last year ended a string value. Our customers live more modest unit improvement. “There’s and makes you want to buy it.” of about 20 years in which in denim — they wear it to more segmentation now and less homog- McCluskey noted that throughout the there’d been nothing but de- work, to school and at home — enization,” LaGrega said, giving much of year, there were “some pretty substantial flation in the denim market, and we made sure we always the credit for recent growth to Lee’s Fit increases in costs and some substantial and most of the rest of appar- gave them a value element in Solutions program. “It’s a real sweet spot increases in retail prices that weren’t el, and that he’ll hold on to any the product, even if it wasn’t between ‘not your mother’s jean’ and ‘not always realized going out the door. The of the benefits to be derived something that was neces- your daughter’s jean.’ ” average out-the-door price was up 1 to 3 from lower cotton costs in the sarily aggressive from a Scott Baxter, Greensboro, N.C.-based percent. Pricing will hold at retail next back half of 2012. fashion standpoint.” VF’s vice president and group presi- year, but you’ll see a pretty substantial Focusing on retail price He noted that while fash- dent of VF Jeanswear Americas and improvement in margin for us, and for points starting at about $80, and ion elements certainly caught Imagewear, noted that an emphasis on our customers.” doing much of its business in the on at the premium end of the market and, stretch is a major component in pockets, at more moderate prices, they of the fit story, with high stretch weren’t the impetus for increases he saw and improved recovery helping during the year, when sales moved ahead. to minimize buyer’s remorse. And he emphasized that large accounts, “There’s also a lot of color com- such as The Buckle, saw strength in denim ing into the Lee line — not just 13.4% that often diverged from the more fashion- yellows and reds but also deep- forward trends that resonated in larger er colors like browns and golds INCREASE IN SALES OF JEANS PRICED $50 markets on the East and West Coasts. for next fall,” he said. “Combine AND UP IN THE 12 MONTHS ENDED IN SEPTEMBER. The premium brands that have with- that with stretch and just a stood the test of time in recent years blingier, dressier approach, and have moved on to new trends, with J you can sell to even a more dis- Brand frequently cited both for its move cerning customer.” Helen McCluskey into sportswear and its success with its In a highly bifurcated mar- side-pocket cargo. “The well-heeled ket, jeans have been more so customer has come back to premium than most categories. denim after taking a break when things While data about the very got a bit predictable,” said analyst Janet upper end of the market — the Kloppenburg, president of JJK Research one frequented by the premium in Scarsdale, N.Y. “That customer is al- brands — isn’t available, the most in a replenishment cycle, because numbers provided by The NPD she hadn’t paid for denim in a while. Group of Port Washington, N.Y., Now there’s new fashion out there in strongly suggest an upward flares, colors and different rises.” migration in price. Overall women’s With prices going up anyway and jeans sales rose 3.2 percent during the ·· more fashion at the mainstream level, 12 months ended in September, to $8.65 “we’re finding specialty stores are able billion, even as units slipped 2.7 percent to get away with slightly higher price to 360.1 million. That lifted the average points. Aéropostale has stayed cheap, price 3.5 percent to $23.38 from $22.58 in but Abercrombie and American Eagle the preceding 12-month period. and Express are putting out great jeans The gains were concentrated at the at higher price points than they used to higher end of the spectrum. While sales be able to sell. The consumption of new- of jeans retailing for under $25 fell 5.3 ness has grown. Customers see where percent to $3.99 billion, those in the $25 the top guys are selling, and it’s made it to $49.99 range were up 11.1 percent easier to go a little higher, as long as you to $3.16 billion, and the highest range have good-looking jeans. The customer tracked by NPD, $50 and up, rose 13.4 — and I guess this applies to all custom- percent to $1.5 billion. Looked at relative ers — is going for a better-quality jean at to market share, the under $25 category better prices. As for the moderate cus- saw its portion dip to 46.2 percent of tomer who hadn’t bought for a while, she sales from 50.3 percent while the high- wants a new finish and a new look and est-priced category grew to 17.3 percent This is one more initiative about will spend more for it. Yo u can see from from 15.8 percent and the middle cate- the sales data — she’s already got the gory grew fastest, to 36.5 percent of sales all-important handbag, and she’s bought from 33.9 percent. generating some real excitement a dress, and she’s ready to replenish on Helen McCluskey, chief operating offi- the denim side.” cer of The Warnaco Group Inc., said, “Our and making a splash on the floor. Christine Chen, equity analyst at denim business in department stores is Needham & Co., cited denim and dress- actually up right now. There was a bit of a — HELEN MCCLUSKEY, WARNACO GROUP INC. es as the two categories that have per- shift away from denim, but now the denim formed the best within the women’s portion is coming back up.” Several weeks sector of the apparel market, and she earlier, she’d told investors on a quarterly Vendors expect the third quarter of central portions of the U.S. and Canada, cautioned that store performance so far conference call that the “men’s jeans busi- 2012 to be the first in which they will Silver has been incorporating trends such in November has been “tough for most.” ness is performing well and we’re seeing be working with cotton prices that are as color, principally red, into the line, but She expects not only a moderation in improvement in women’s.” lower than those they’d been paying a has taken it slowly, as many of its custom- year-over-year cotton prices in the back Key to Warnaco’s recent pickup, as year earlier, and the expectation around ers are still in the process of integrating half of the year, but also more flexibil- well as its 2012 strategy, is the Power the market, as at Warnaco, is that prices the skinny silhouette into their wardrobes. ity among manufacturers in China who Stretch program launched for fall and will hold fairly steady. But that wasn’t the “I couldn’t sell skinny in the Midwest could have excess capacity up for grabs. due for substantial expansion, with first- case going into 2011. two years ago, but now I can, because Chen believes that one of the chal- half shipments expected to hit $20 mil- “Our theory about prices was that we that customer understands tall boots,” lenges of 2012 will be to get the tops lion. Power Stretch combines stretch would raise them a little bit and make a he said. “My average consumer, who isn’t market in sync with the changing looks characteristics with a wide array of col- little bit less,” said Michael Silver, presi- necessarily hanging on the·· words coming in bottoms, and that goes for skirts as ors, the first time the two attributes have dent of Winnipeg-based Silver Jeans Co., off the runway, is embracing skinny and well as jeans and slacks. “There’s been been combined, and, moving into 2012, a “and we figured that stores would be a darker washes. Color may be somewhat a change in bottoms, whether you look broader range of silhouettes, too. bit less aggressive on [initial markup]. important, but I’m probably going to sell at color or silhouette or with skirts mak- “The colored denim trend has been We found that there was a ceiling — you more shorts and capris next year than I ing a bit of a move,” she said. “There’s a out there in the more contemporary could go to a certain level of pricing, and will colored jeans.” huge compatibility problem right now.” WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 7 WWD.COM Keds to Launch Sportswear Collection McQ Line Set of the Keds brand,” she said. Looks from By RosEMARy FEiTELBERG Emphasizing how Keds have been the new worn by many notables over the years in- For London Keds line FoR ThE FiRsT TiME in its 95-year cluding Marilyn Monroe, Jackie onassis, that debuts history, Keds is introducing sportswear, Paul Newman and humphrey Bogart, LoNDoN — McQ, Alexander at Opening which will make its debut on Black Burrows said the company will continue McQueen’s younger, more com- Ceremony. Friday exclusively at opening Ceremony. to feed products to celebrities though mercial line, is coming of age The men’s and women’s clothes are some need no prompting, Burrows said. with plans for a flagship here pretty much what one would expect from Kristen stewart and Natalie Portman are and a runway show during a nearly century-old American brand a couple of the young actresses who have London Fashion Week. that specializes in canvas sneakers — been spotted wearing the brand. An announcement is ex- basic, understated and faintly preppy. To try to create some buzz during Art pected today. The collection, which consists of about Basel in Miami, Keds sportswear will McQ, which offers men’s 85 styles, came together through a li- be sold in a pop-up shop in the Vogue and women’s wear and ac- censing deal with LF UsA, a subsidiary lounge at the sagamore hotel. There cessories, will open its first of the hong Kong-based Li & Fung Ltd. will also be style advisers on hand to stand-alone store in the Keds is a division of Collective Brands help visitors create a signature look, spring at 14 Dover street Performance + Lifestyle Group. said Laurie heller, brand marketing in London’s Mayfair. The Rick Darling, president of LF manager for Keds. And on Dec. 6, store, in a Georgian town UsA said, “Keds is a great addition Keds will welcome about 40 bloggers house, will span 2,948 to our portfolio of fashion brands. to its showroom to style looks that square feet, and has been We look forward to continuing our they can later blog about. designed by Pod. long relationship with Collective Keds apparel will also be in August, WWD first Brands, as we extend this iconic featured in the brand’s 2012 reported the news that a American brand into the appar- advertising though executives McQ stand-alone store was el category.” declined to comment on the set to open in the spring. The limited edition Keds investment. Alexander McQueen took resort collection will be sold The company did have a the McQ line in-house last at opening Ceremony’s stores hand in creating a major pop year, and since then has been in New york and Los Angeles, culture trend. First unveiled building it into a full, stand- as well as through its Web site. by the U.s. Rubber Co. (what alone collection. The plan is to roll out Keds ap- is known today as Uniroyal), For the first time, McQ parel to specialty stores and Keds rubber-soled shoes will present the fall collec- high-end department stores caught on quickly. in 1887, tion with a catwalk show for spring. T-shirts, sweat- the term “sneaker” first during London Fashion ers, pants, skirts, dresses and appeared in print to de- Week in February as a jackets are among the offer- scribe Boston school chil- preview to the store open- ings, with retail prices for the dren’s tennis shoes. But, it was ing. The main Alexander inaugural looks retailing from a 1917 Keds ad that referenced A look from McQueen collection will con- $48 to $400. how sneakers allowed wearers to the McQ tinue to show during Paris Darling and Keds brand presi- sneak up on unsuspecting friends 2012 resort Fashion Week in March. dent Kristin Kohler Burrows de- that helped make the word part of collection. — SAMANTHA CONTI clined to comment on first-year the public’s vernacular. projected volume. Keds decided to As for LF UsA, licensing is a enter apparel because Li & Fung fundamental part of its growth was interested in building the busi- plan. “We are always looking to Casey Carl to Lead

ERICKSEN KYLE ness in the right way rather than extend our portfolio into other

BY rolling it out big initially, Burrows brands, and we expect to an- said. “Right from the get-go, they un- nounce other details in the fu- Target’s We b Site

PHOTOS derstood the meaning and essence ture,” Darling said. TARGET CoRP. promoted hardlines mer- chant Casey Carl, making him the point man for its Web site — which has crashed a couple times since the company ended a Discounting Hits Chico’s Net decadelong deal with Amazon in August. Carl, who had been senior vice presi- that is certainly something we have dent of hardlines, will now serve as presi- By EVAN CLARK to deal with.” dent of the discounter’s multichannel Third-quarter net profits sank 8.2 operations and senior vice president of ChiCo’s FAs iNC.’s stock dropped percent to $26.5 million from $28.8 merchandising. 14.4 percent after a glut of inventory million, but were flat on a per share The 14-year Target veteran is responsible prompted discounting at the com- basis at 16 cents. Excluding costs of for the retailer’s Web site, its social media pany’s namesake division that hurt about $3.5 million, or 2 cents a share, and mobile efforts as well as its entertain- third-quarter profits — and president associated with the Boston Proper ment, toys, sporting goods and electronic and chief executive officer David Dyer acquisition, the firm’s earnings per businesses. took the hit on the chin. share came at 18 cents, 2 cents shy of “We are firmly committed to implement- “The Chico’s brand in July had a analyst estimates. ing a multichannel strategy that enables 14 percent [comparable-store sales] investors pushed the stock down our guests to engage with Target anywhere, increase, followed by an 11 percent $1.67 to $9.94. anytime,” said Kathee Tesija, executive comp-store increase in August….We sales for the three months ended vice president of merchandising. “Under were really coming off some very, oct. 29 rose 11.5 percent to $538.5 mil- Casey’s leadership and with the support of very strong momentum and, honestly, lion from $483 million as comparable- a strong team, we are confident that we will i took a shot,” Dyer told analysts on store sales rose 3.7 percent. continue to improve our digital operations a conference call. “We went for the Gross margins narrowed to 56 and deliver on our ‘Expect More. Pay Less’ inventory. We thought that we could percent of sales from 57 percent, brand promise.” continue that momentum, and it which the downward pressure from Carl takes over where steve Eastman, didn’t happen.” price cuts at Chico’s partially offset Chico’s third-quarter net fell to $26.5 million. former president of Target’s Web opera- The Chico’s customer is very sensitive by increased full-price selling at the White house|Black Market that he tions, left off. Eastman exited the company to the economy and markets, Dyer said. White house|Black Market and soma made on Chico’s last quarter, Dyer in october, just over a month after its Web “she watches her portfolio, and intimates brands. said: “The answer is yes.…Fashion site crashed as demand for the Missoni for perhaps the portfolio is the modern- Asked on the call if he was now businesses are not for the faint of Target line surged. day mood ring,” he said. “so i think making the same inventory bet on heart. They ebb and flow.” — E.C.

goods sold and selling, general and ad- with 303 stores in 16 southern states, Belk Reverses Loss in 3rd Qtr. ministrative expenses rose 4.5 percent to identified men’s apparel, women’s $776.6 million. shoes, cosmetics and hard home mer- BELK iNC. KEPT increases in expenses and asset impairment and exit costs in “We are encouraged by our strong chandise as top performers during the below its rate of increased revenue, al- the most recent quarter, net income was results and momentum as we enter the quarter. it completed shoe department lowing the retailer to convert a year-ago $1.4 million versus a loss of $6.1 million fourth quarter,” said Tim Belk, chair- expansion and remodeling projects in loss into a third-quarter profit. a year ago. man and chief executive officer. “We see 32 stores and fashion jewelry remodel- in the three months ended oct. 29, sales rose 5.9 percent, to $790.7 mil- this as a good time to continue investing ing initiatives in 56 units. the Charlotte, N.C.-based department lion from $746.6 million, and were up 6.6 in our business, including technology to in the nine months, net income in- store group registered net income of percent on a same-store basis. add new capabilities, store remodels and creased 76.4 percent to $57.5 million $600,000 versus a year-ago net loss of Gross margin ticked up to 31 percent expansions and building our new brand.” from $32.6 million, while revenues were $4.2 million. Excluding gains on proper- of sales from 30.9 percent in the 2010 The company, the largest privately up 5.7 percent to $2.47 billion. ty and equipment sales in both periods quarter. The combination of its cost of held department store group in the U.s., — ARNOLD J. KARR

w23a007a;11.indd 2 11/22/11 7:25 PM 11222011192609 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 WWD.COM Lela Rose Returns to Dallas With Store Von Teese Reveals Von Follies Rose’s ready-to-wear, cocktail dress- By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg es, jewelry and accessories are show- was important to me to accomplish the cased in the space that was designed by By patty Huntington task of making these beautiful things FRiday’s opening in dallas of the ashley tripplehorn Hunt and dee dee in sizes that can make any woman feel first lela Rose boutique was a bit of a Hoak of tripplehorn Hoak interiors sydney — dita Von teese has un- sexy and glamorous, and i’m very proud homecoming for the designer. and built by gC group. in sync with her veiled another glimpse of her fledgling that we have been able to do that, while she and her company’s president, design aesthetic, there is a wall of illus- apparel empire — a first look at the keeping prices affordable.” Karen scheck, touched down in texas trations, as well as furniture covered new Von Follies by dita Von teese lin- Von Follies by dita Von teese is Von last week to greet shoppers in her new in signature fabrics. a supporter of the gerie collection. teese’s second foray into intimate ap- Highland park Village shop. Rose wel- dallas arts community, Rose will regu- launching first in australia in early parel, following the europe-exclusive comed more than a few larly display artwork February exclusively through target release of the Wonderbra by dita familiar faces, since from local artists. and australia stores and target.com.au, the Von teese collection in september she was raised in the Lela Rose shoppers will see for brand has been developed by Von teese’s 2008, which was followed by a second historic neighborhood chose themselves that the melbourne-based global licensee Dallas for and she spent many new york-based de- lime door brands, together with Dita Von Teese afternoons at the out- her first signer is as hospitable melbourne-based lingerie com- boutique. in lingerie from door shopping center. as ever — they will be pany diamondcut international. Von Follies. “the Village has offered iced tea and inspired by the burlesque been home to many home baked almond star’s extensive personal col- famed brands. to be biscotti made from her lection of vintage lingerie, Von a part of this rich his- own recipe. Follies by dita Von teese fea- tory is beyond a dream “it’s kind of the world tures 10 groups in hues of black, come true,” she said. “i of lela as only she can red, nudes with black lace over- grew up seeing movies do,” scheck said. lay, vintage-inspired satin and at the venerable old in addition to the an animal print and includes an theater, roaming the signature collection, overwire bra, high-waisted briefs, aisles at the Woolworth there is the lela Rose garter belts and fitted corselettes. five-and-dime, and Wedding collection, “there are so many vin- doing some back-to- STEVEN PAN lela Rose for payless tage lingerie pieces i love that school shopping at footwear and the lela i haven’t been able to find in all

Harold’s,” she said. PHOTO BY Rose bridesmaid col- my years of collecting. i wanted the 600-square-foot lection. the new store to design pieces that are tributes store joins such luxury tenants as Chanel, provides an opportunity to make the to my vintage obsessions, to make Hermès, stella mcCartney, Carolina designer’s sportswear more well-recog- them beautiful and functional, Herrera, Christian louboutin, diane von nized, scheck said. lightweight jackets while modernizing them for ev- Furstenberg and tory burch. “For us, it that retail from $895 to $1,895, sweaters eryday wear. i’ve had a longtime was a little less intimidating to be open- in the $395 to $695 range and necklaces fascination with the Fifties-era

ing [among such top designer brands] that go for $295 to $595 should be top overwire bras. it’s something that S ld

in lela’s hometown. but we were at the performers, she said. Rose’s customers has been quite a task to create, E Ni

point where we wanted to showcase the are interested in unusual colors and tex- but the end result is so chic, and l Y full breadth of the collection,” scheck tures, not basics. “they’re interested in so unique, i’m very proud of it. r HE

said. “this is a stamp of elevation for the things that are relatively casual. that’s it’s a statement piece meant to be S BY brand. We’re both very proud about what how most women dress in their everyday seen,” Von teese stated.

the company has accomplished.” lives,” scheck said. prices range from 17 to 29 HOTO P australian dollars, or $16.78 to $28.56 at current exchange, for briefs Wonderbra capsule collection, the and g-strings, up to 79 to 150 australian party edition by dita Von teese, in dollars, or $77.93 to $147.72, for bust- september 2009. iers, corsets and torsolettes, with bras tuesday’s announcement follows just retailing for 39 to 49 australian dol- four weeks after Von teese launched her lars, or $38.41 to $48.25. selected bra new muse capsule dress collection in per- ON-DEMAND styles will be available up to an e cup son during the melbourne Cup Carnival (european-u.s. size 46) and briefs up to — an exercise which lime door brands an australian size 20 (u.s. size 16). estimates netted 30 million australian “it was very important to me to offer dollars, or $29.5 million, in publicity. also VIDEO lingerie in a large range of sizes,” the manufactured and marketed by lime performer added. “size range was one door brands, muse is similarly launching of the first things i asked when i was first in australia, as an exclusive with the wwdapparel.fora.tv approached to create this collection. it department store chain david Jones. Humane Society Targets Fake Fur Claims tHe Humane soCiety of the u.s. has mediately corrected the error when it was filed a legal petition with the Federal brought to our attention prior to the filing trade Commission against 11 retailers of the petition by the Humane society. for alleged false advertising and misla- barneys would never intentionally misla- beling of fur-trimmed products. bel or misclassify any items that we sell.” the retailers advertised various items a spokeswoman for beyond the Rack as being made with “faux” fur, even had no comment. though the products contain real animal the petition alleges that the practices fur, the Humane society charged. of these retailers mislead consumers “there is an epidemic of false adver- into unknowingly purchasing animal-fur tising in the fur industry,” said Jonathan products, increased consumer confusion R. lovvorn, senior vice president and over the type and origin of fur that is chief counsel for animal protection liti- used on clothing and accessories, and vi- Barneys New York Tory Burch LLC Bottega Veneta gation for the Hsus. “Consumers have olated the federal Fur products labeling Mark Lee Tory Burch Marco Bizzarri a right to know what they’re buying, but act. the Fur products labeling act re- Chief Executive Officer Chief Executive Officer President & Chief many major retailers just don’t seem to quires that animal-fur products be la- on the new & Chief Creative Officer Executive Officer care if consumers are deceived, even beled with the name of the species used, specialty store on the power of on core brand values though real fur is something many con- the manufacturer and country of origin, social media sumers are determined to avoid.” and it prohibits the sale and advertising the petition names dillard’s, neiman of fur products that have been falsely or marcus, barneys, beyond the Rack, deceptively advertised. shopbop, dr. Jays, Revolve Clothing, Violations of the Fur products gilt groupe, ssense, summit sports and labeling act can carry up to a $5,000 yoox, each of which the Humane society fine and up to a year in prison. the claims falsely advertised jackets, cardi- FtC is tasked with enforcing the Fur CEO Summit gans, shoes or other products as contain- products labeling act and protecting AppArel & retAil ing faux fur. the organization said in- consumers from deception. dependent laboratory testing confirmed last year, the truth in Fur labeling that the products contain real animal fur. act was enacted to strengthen the Fur attempts were made to contact all products labeling act and close a loop- the retailers in question. hole that allowed some fur-trimmed a spokeswoman for barneys said, garments to be sold without labels. the “We recently became aware of a single new law is aimed at preventing false ad- instance where an item made of fur was vertising by requiring retailers to affix inadvertently referred to as faux fur in clear labels to the garments. the listing on our Web site. barneys im-  —ARTHURFRIEDMAN

w23a008b;10.indd 8 11/22/11 6:17 PM 11222011181830 AN INSPIRATION: Designer Trish Summerville is a fan of ‘It’ girl Rooney Mara. WWD STYLE PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

INS AND OUTS: After only two months, Jason Wagenheim is out as publisher of Glamour. “I feel like maybe he had the impression that Bill [Wackermann, executive vice president and publishing director] would move into a different role and it never happened,” said one insider. “Jason came into the job with a lot of strategy and creativity,” said another source, adding that Wagenheim received the news Monday from Condé Nast president Bob Sauerberg, while Wackermann was traveling. It also came right after Media Industry Newsletter posted full- year ad page figures. Glamour, traditionally the company’s biggest money maker, ended 2011 down 7 percent in ad pages. Wagenheim, it appears, won’t be out entirely from Condé Nast. Sources indicated he’ll move into another position at the company — perhaps the publishing job at Details, which is also managed by Wackermann. If Wagenheim does go to Details, insiders said the men’s title might be removed from Wackermann’s group, which also includes W and Bon Appétit. Wagenheim’s exit from Glamour had many inside 4 Times Square recalling the unceremonious departure from Condé Nast of Carol Smith, another executive who was lured from the outside to join the company and then abruptly left — without reassignment elsewhere in the company. Wagenheim was formerly the publisher of Entertainment Weekly and Smith left her perch at Elle to head up the Gourmet franchise and Bon Appétit. — AMY WICKS

PARTYOLOGY: For the first time since 2007, Condé Nast’s holiday party returned to The Four Seasons. With the party returning to the pool room for a luncheon on Tuesday, so returns the holiday party seating chart, a favorite moment for old media world Kremlinologists. Vanity Fair publisher Edward Menicheschi and Condé Nast Traveler publisher Carolyn Kremins flanked Condé Nast chairman S.I. Newhouse Jr. Menicheschi helped lead Vanity Fair to its most profitable year ever and Kremins, two months into the Traveler job, is seen as a rising star at Condé. New Yorker editor David Remnick, Lucky editor Brandon Holley and Condé Nast digital executive Scott Dadich also sat at Newhouse’s table. Vogue’s Anna Wintour and Dawn Ostroff, Condé Nast’s new president of entertainment, sat at the elbow of Condé Nast president Bob Sauerberg at the front of the pool room, directly in front of a podium. Vogue publisher Susan Plagemann (who led Vogue to a year where it saw 9 percent ad page growth) and new Brides editor Anne Fulenwider sat with chief executive officer Chuck Shop This Way Townsend, next to Sauerberg’s table. Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter and New Yorker publisher Lisa Hughes sat next to Condé Nast executive A Chanel-clad Lady Gaga opened Gaga’s Workshop, her long-in- Steven Newhouse. In a speech, S.I. Newhouse paid tribute to the-works Barneys New York Christmas boutique, with an assist Wintour and her effort in organizing Fashion’s from Nicola Formichetti on Monday. Before the grand unveil, Night Out in Tokyo (the issue is particularly significant to him — the Newhouse Family the pop star and native New Yorker sat down with WWD to chat Foundation gave a $1 million donation to Red Christmas in the city. For more, see page 10. Cross Society of Japan after the earthquake and tsunami hit in March). Townsend, meanwhile, made a rah-rah speech, telling the 81 publishers, editors and executives in the room that Condé Nast was set to have its most profitable year ever (though the Four Seasons get-together was scheduled long in advance of the recent news that the magazine industry is beginning to slump again, with ad pages down 7 percent in the fourth quarter after a promising start to the year). For the last two years, Condé Nast’s holiday party has been held at cocktail hour at Aureole, the Charlie Palmer restaurant in The Bank of America Tower next door to 4 Times Square. In 2008, as Condé Nast began to slash budgets, the publisher canceled its holiday party. — JOHN KOBLIN PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER {Continued on page 12} 10 WWD wednesday, november 23, 2011

eye mom would make a quiche and we For the Full gaga would hang out all morning and open interview, see presents. My grandparents would come over and we would listen to Christmas WWD.com/eye. music and make dinner and watch the snow fall outside. and that was Christmas at my house — very family oriented.

WWD: Christmas mass? L.G.: Christmas mass? Of course. Lady Gaga before the WWD: Christmas eve or Christmas day? Gaga’s L.G.: Christmas day.…sometimes Workshop Christmas eve. it depended on the year ribbon cutting. and what Grandpa was doing. Grandpa always decided when we went to mass. he’s not around anymore. he died two years ago this Christmas. But he always decided when we went to church.

WWD: all this talk about Christmas and it’s not even Thanksgiving yet. L.G.: i know. isn’t that awful? it’s so new York of us.

WWD: What’s your plan for the rest of the week? L.G.: i’m going to have Thanksgiving with my family and “a very Gaga Thanksgiving” is my Thanksgiving special on aBC.

WWD: Will you watch it? L.G.: sure. My dad will be so excited. i actually directed it. it’s the first of Gaga Talks Christmas Traditions two things i directed. i directed this as well as the video for “Marry the night,” my new single.…so we’ll be watching that and eating turkey and doing what in The liTanY of descriptive phrases favorites growing up? that look like my outfits. There’s magnets all new Yorkers do, which is getting that have been — and can be — applied Lady Gaga: Well going to rockefeller Center, that are dress-up Gaga dolls. There’s all ready for every window to be filled with to lady Gaga, there’s one that’s easy to seeing the tree. Just watching the snow fall sorts of things. Christmas cheer the next day. overlook: new Yorker. The pop goddess in Central Park. a carriage ride around the and upper West sider had the trait Plaza. all sorts of things. Just really walking WWD: The fans downstairs all seemed WWD: What’s on your Christmas list on full display Monday evening as she around Madison avenue at this time is a very Christmas-ready. are you a this year? discussed the city and the holidays with completely amazing experience. What we Christmas person yourself? L.G.: i already got it. i’m going to be WWd amid the Technicolor merch of did here at Barneys was, we tried to bridge L.G.: Yeah, i am. and they’re making me with my family. i had a wonderfully Gaga’s Workshop, the fifth-floor boutique the spirit of Madison avenue with the spirit so happy being here. honestly, this would successful year with “Born This at Barneys new York that is her own twist of downtown new York pop punk culture not be possible without them. Yes i have Way.” We sold 7 million albums so far on the new York holiday routine. dressed and create a space that had a range of prices fun fashion ideas and have a knack for worldwide; it’s only been out for five in a very large Chanel gown, and looking and some very affordable gifts and some trinkets, but the truth is if the love of the months. and i got my first ever custom undaunted by the cartoonish installations that were more expensive, but all geared fans didn’t mean something powerful Chanel by Karl lagerfeld. that surrounded her (designed by eli towards the Born This Way Foundation. from a cultural standpoint, coming to sudbrack and Christophe hamaide Barneys to buy Gaga presents wouldn’t WWD: is this what you’ll be wearing to Pierson of assume vivid astro Focus), WWD: do you have a particular favorite mean anything. They represent a beautiful the unveiling tonight as well? Gaga displayed what could only be called item in Gaga’s Workshop? message. The message of “Born This Way” L.G.: This is what i’ll be wearing, and i an earnest appreciation for the holiday L.G.: The hair bows. i love the hair bows. runs through everything they stand for, think i also would like to be cremated in season punctuated by the occasional sip i also very much love the cookies and which is probably why you felt that sense it. is that your headline? from her teacup. shoppers looking for the chocolate McQueen armadillo heels. of community and Christmas when you saw their own such mug can find a swarovski- and this stocking right here, i love so them. They wanted to come here for an WWD: Final question: how old were enhanced version for $695 in the much. The stiletto stocking? experience that they could enjoy together. you when you stopped believing in workshop’s accessories department; there santa Claus? is also a $65 nonbejeweled version. (in WWD: The black patent leather one? WWD: What was Christmas like in your L.G.: i still believe in santa. he’s for sure the spirit of the season, 25 percent of all L.G.: Yeah. Well, i love them all. They’re all household growing up? around. he and the easter Bunny. i’ve sales will go towards Gaga’s anti-bullying modeled after the different shoes i wear. i L.G.: Well, my mom and dad used to leave hung out with them and Jesus Christ a initiative, the Born This Way Foundation.) mean there’s so many things for everyone. cookies out for santa. My sister and i few times. — Matthew Lynch There’s press-on nails. There’s sunglasses. would run down the stairs in the morning There’s amazing jewelry made by fans. and santa would always take a couple WWD: Oh, you have? What was the WWD: You’re entering the new York We commissioned the fans to bring their bites of the cookie, but he’d leave a little conversation like? holiday season tradition. as a new jewelry here to sell at the store. We have bit. he would drink all of the milk. There L.G.: They’re just all really good friends. Yorker yourself, did you have any boxes of little Monsters. There’s cookies would be presents waiting for us. My They all do good things for humanity.

shopping privileges at Monster Shoppers a combination cocktail Michelle Blake Lively in Elie Saab party/shopping event. Harper with Lady Gaga in Chanel. While several hundred Lady Gaga fans watched “i’m anxious to see in the chill on east 60th street as the pop star cut first of all if anything’s the ribbon to Gaga’s Workshop at Barneys new York wearable,” said Jesse on Monday night, a crush of viPs were granted early Tyler Ferguson, who was enjoying a pre- workshop drink. “i’m Nicole Trunfio with her haul. cautious of going in and seeing like a rack of meat panties or

something.” ner CH i Prabal Gurung was e among the first to teve s comb the workshop for gifts — “for my 10-year-old nephew and five-year-old a few revelers likened the experience to FaO by niece,” he said. “They are huge Gaga fans.” schwartz on acid. Most were giddy at the sight of candy Alexander Wang, basket in hand, also had Christmas lipsticks, bow lollipops and flame press-on nails. and; faCade

gifts for his niece and nephew in mind, though that “are those lady Gaga eleni’s cookies?” Blake L

didn’t really influence his selection. “i don’t really Lively asked. “everything is so unexpected and re O think age appropriate, i just buy what i like,” the beyond my imagination.” designer said. like many others, lively was hoping to meet Gaga for Lexie M

among the crowd moving from the party to the the first time, but the actress wasn’t quite sure what she by Os

workshop and back were Neil Patrick Harris, Alan Cumming, would say to her if the moment came. “she is like a piece t Monique Péan, Pamela Love, Carolyn Murphy, Yvonne Force of art come alive,” lively said. “so it would be strange to Villareal, Giovanna Battaglia, Matthew Settle and a contingent be, like, having a conversation with a painting.” PHO

of heavily made-up drag performers. — Marc KariMzadeh and M.L. Party

w23a010a.indd 1 11/22/11 7:52 PM 11222011195344 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 11 FOR MORE WWD.COM LOOKS, SEE WWD.com/ PARADE DRESS: The Macy’s Thanksgiving runway. FASHION SCOOPS Day parade has a new executive Moschino Cheap and producer this year in Amy Kule — and the Chic: Creative director THE GIRL WITH THE DRAGON veteran special events maestro turned Rossella Jardini EARRING: Revving on momentum to custom designer Dara Lamb for the played with optical from designing the costumes for outfit she’ll don for the high-profile role illusions for her David Fincher’s highly anticipated on Thursday. Kule will wear a purple Moschino Cheap film “The Girl With the Dragon velvet topcoat with military details and Chic pre-fall Tattoo” and creating a made for her by Lamb, paired with collection. A white forthcoming collection leggings, suede boots and a bowler duffle coat, for inspired by the movie for hat. An attention-grabbing look is instance, featured H&M, Trish Summerville is customary for executive producers trompe l’oeil frog already forming her New of the parade, as about 50 million fasteners, pockets Year’s resolutions. One television viewers watch them and Andy Warhol- includes starting a fine cut the ribbon that kicks off the inspired brushstrokes jewelry line sometime in festivities. This year, NBC’s Al in pastel colors, the near future. Ideas for the Roker and 20 children who lost while a classic camel line revolve around men’s and family members on 9/11 will do the military coat was women’s collections, as well honors along with Kule. stitched over a black as unisex jewelry. “I kind of “Al Roker promised me it won’t dress. Jardini also like that androgynous kind of rain, as I’m wearing velvet and obtained a bouclé feel, of certain pieces that I can suede,” noted Kule, who is taking effect by turning a intermix,” Summerville said, the helm of the parade from Robin cropped sheepskin summarizing not only possible Hall, who was executive producer jacket inside out and designs but also her own for 10 years. Hall and his own trimming it with black personal style. predecessor, Jean McFaddin, who leather and maxi Pulling from her connections headed up the parade for 25 years, pearl buttons. working with the Black Eyed will both ride in a special float Peas, No Doubt, Janet Jackson atop giant replicas of their favored and Adam Lambert, Summerville has no hats, a top hat and a cowboy hat. shortage of candidates for celebrity endorsements. Then there’s actress AMERICANA SPOTLIGHT: Today, Rooney Mara, who plays Lisbeth Rooney Chanel is opening a fine jewelry and Salander (aka the girl with the dragon Mara watches boutique at the Americana tattoo). “I love Rooney,” Summerville Manhasset in Manhasset, N.Y., said. “I think it’s great that she’s the in a partnership with London ‘It’ girl, because she embodies all the Jewelers. “We both share the same things that an ‘It’ girl should be. She has values of excellence, and I am sure this good style. She has an amazing face.” is the beginning of a special long-term relationship,” said Barbara Cirkva, division TEL AVIV ITALIANO: He may not be the most president, Chanel Fine Jewelry and popular guy with the New York fashion Watches. The boutique, with its own authorities, but he’s making friends with storefront, will offer a mix of baubles the Israelis. On Monday, Mario Boselli, and timepieces, including the J12 and president of the Camera Nazionale della Premiere watch lines and the fine Moda Italiana, and Lev Ofir, president jewelry pieces from the house’s Camelia, of Tel Aviv Fashion Week, signed an Ultra and 1932 collections. agreement of cooperation between the two countries’ fashion sectors. POST-TURKEY-DAY PLANS: The Paradise According to Camera Nazionale della Fund plans to draw a crop of post- Moda, its board will consider the possibility Thanksgiving revelers to Palm Beach, COLLECTIONS of including Israeli designers in future Fla., on Nov. 25 for its annual gala, Just Cavalli: For his 2012 editions of NUDe, a talent-search project which will benefit the St. Jude Children’s contemporary Just PRE-FALL that takes place during Milan Fashion Research Hospital. Notable attendees Cavalli line, Roberto Week. Also, a number of Italian designers, to the casino-themed fete are expected Cavalli expressed still to be determined, would show their to include Julia Koch, Binkie Orthwein and his rock ’n’ roll spirit EICHNER collections in Tel Aviv during a collective Nicole Hanley Mellon. Sponsored for the first by designing the runway show. Boselli is currently in Tel time this year by Salvatore Ferragamo, ultimate wardrobe STEVE Aviv to attend the first edition of the city’s the fund-raiser will be held at the Henry for a Glastonbury BY fashion week, running Nov. 21 to 24, which M. Flagler Museum on the waterfront

groupie. Native PHOTO lists Roberto Cavalli as guest of honor. estate of the oil tycoon. American-inspired motifs dominated the lineup, appearing on silk fluid minidresses and jersey stretch turtlenecks paired with silk flare-leg pants. References to the Seventies were For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. evident on a fitted silk crepe military coat matched with an asymmetric silk chiffon dress, as well as a suede tuxedo jacket and ankle- length silk crepe PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Computer Patternmaker cigarette pants. PRODUCTIONS Must be able to correct and make pat- Full service shop to the trade. terns on on Optitex system or Gerber. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Contact: [email protected] VP OF WHOLESALE SALES Technical Designer Leading premium Denim Company is Must be highly organized, hardwork- searching for a Vice President of ing, and skilled in junior & plus appa- Wholesale Sales. Requires strong ex- rel. Computer proficient a must. Email perience managing all aspects of a top- resume to [email protected] tier apparel wholesale division, pref- erably within the luxury denim seg- ment. Will have worked with key buy- ers and management of better majors ATTENTION CLASSIFIED and specialty wholesale accounts. The ADVERTISERS position will oversee both the LA and NY showrooms and sales team and can In observance of the be based in either location. Bachelors Thanksgiving Day Holiday, degree in Business or related field and WWD will not publish on 10+ years of experience. Join our rap- Thursday 11/24 or Friday 11/25. idly growing company! Apply at: www.truereligionbrandjeans.com/careers The deadline for the Monday,11/28 issue of WWD will be TODAY,11/23 at 11AM ET. Fairchild offices will be closed at 1pm on Wednesday, and both Thursday and Friday. PAVESI

GIOVANNA (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] BY PHOTOS 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2011 WWD.COM

mainly in sourcing and re- Revamped French Chain Morgan Prepares to Go Global tail, Bailly said. va-voom in favor of what it terms “sexi- media networks. “We have a lot of poten- By JOELLE DIDERICH ness à la française” — a more contempo- Bailly said traffic at the store was up tial clout, people on the rary and subtle form of sex appeal. 35 percent versus the same period ground both to develop real PARIS — French high-street fashion “Morgan was a bit ‘too much.’ It was last year, when Morgan’s store on estate and roll out the con- chain Morgan is ready to spread its wings. one of the first things we tried to rectify the Champs-Elysées was located cept. We are equipped to Brittany-based Groupe Beaumanoir, in the collections,” explained Bailly, who a few doors away. “From the first do it. For the moment, which purchased the ailing brand in bolstered the in-house design team and week onward, the average bas- we are searching for March 2009, hopes to almost double the hired a new creative director, Raimondo ket was around 90 euros [$121.59], the right formula,” number of points of sale worldwide over Ciofani, a veteran of brands including which is practically 35 to 40 percent he added. “Asia is the next five years after a wide-reaching Swish Jeans, Phard and Liu Jo. higher than our network average, so very attractive for overhaul of Morgan’s ready-to-wear col- The company, which had been floun- there is really something happening Morgan because the A look lections and store identity. dering creatively since the departure there,” he said. wealthier new genera- from It already has cause to celebrate: of its president and founder Jocelyne The new store concept has been tion is very interested Morgan’s Morgan is expected to turn a profit in 2011 Bismuth in 2006, now produces 85 per- rolled out to 15 locations so far, and in French brands and fall for the first time in four years, 12 months cent of its designs in-house, versus 50 Morgan hopes to convert all its 289 in a certain form of collection. ahead of target. Hervé Bailly, director percent at the time Beaumanoir pur- points of sale worldwide within the next sexiness, so we think there of product and marketing at Morgan, ex- chased Morgan from private equity firm two years, Bailly said. It also has an is huge potential.” pects sales to reach 200 million euros, or Apax Partners and its founding families. ambitious program of store openings, Morgan is also planning to take It has kept its entry-level targeting a worldwide total of 500 points of e-commerce across French borders for Morgan’s price points unchanged, but is sale by 2016. the first time, thanks to a redesigned Web flagship on the working to improve quality and “We believe we still have a lot of op- site set to be unveiled in spring. “We are Champs-Elysées grow its premium offerings, portunities in France, namely through looking at strategies for penetrating new in Paris. which for fall-winter include a franchising, because the brand has very markets via the Web,” the executive said. purple wool cape priced at 199 attractive ratios and performances. The company plans to invest some 10 euros, or $268.85 at current ex- Today, our turnover is around 8,000 euros million euros, or $13.5 million, a year in change, and a leather biker jack- [$10,808] per square meter,” he said. “We its store network for the next three years. et at 189 euros, or $255.34. are back to a level of performance that is The retail push will be matched by an ad- At the same time, the new very convincing for an investor.” vertising blitz in France, where Morgan owners set about revamping the Morgan plans to open more corners plans to launch a new ad campaign in the stores with the help of brand con- in Spain in partnership with El Corte second half of 2012 with the aim of hav- sultancy Saguez & Partners, cul- Inglés, in addition to freestanding stores ing a leading share of voice. minating in the opening of a new in Switzerland, Belgium, Luxembourg “Our objective is to be among the mar- global flagship on the Avenue des and the Netherlands. It also has ambi- ket’s five largest media investors. At pres- Champs-Elysées last month. tious plans for Asia, where it is testing ent, the big investors are people like H&M, $265 million, in 2011, up from 129 million Spread over 5,900 square feet, the store formats in China. Comptoir des Cotonniers, Kookaï, Maje, euros, or $171 million, in 2010. two-floor boutique features a custom- To do this, it will leverage the resources Sandro and The Kooples,” Bailly noted. All dollar rates are calculated at av- made mosaic floor with a pattern of inter- of Beaumanoir, which has steadily expand- Morgan hopes overseas markets will erage exchange rates for the periods to locking hearts and a staircase that curves ed in the last eight years and now boasts eventually account for half its sales, ver- which they refer. around a 20-foot high chandelier made combined annual sales of more than 1 bil- sus a third at present. “Our objective is to make 500 million from 1,500 Swarovski crystals. lion euros, or $1.3 billion, from Morgan “Fast fashion is facing very difficult euros in 2016,” he added. Scattered throughout are state-of-the- and its other ready-to-wear brands: Cache times, because today it’s about quality Famous for its advertising campaigns art video screens, including screens in Cache, Patrice Bréal, Bonobo, Scottage rather than quantity. That doesn’t mean in the Nineties featuring sultry black- all 16 changing rooms, that display rotat- and recent acquisition La City. people want expensive products, but in- and-white shots of models including ing images of the season’s key looks, and The group has more than 400 Cache creasingly, they are going to choose care- Carla Bruni, Laetitia Casta and Estelle a “tweet mirror” that allows customers Cache stores in China and a team of fully,” he said. “For midmarket brands Hallyday, Morgan has toned down the va- to share photos taken in-store on social 250 employees in Shanghai working [like us], I see that as a real opportunity.”

pieces, culture guides and multimedia extras. The Staten Island Ferry, hot dog vendors and its flagship magazine has been designed by London-based M&C on Madison Avenue. Hundreds of hangtags were MEMO PAD Saatchi to be accessible via computer, tablet or mobile photographed to get the lighting and shadows just phone without downloading a dedicated app. right for the videos that will be available on YouTube, “It’s fashion-focused but takes into its sway film, Facebook, Twitter, e-cards and in select Coach store music, cultural opinion, modern icons, great art, windows. As part of the campaign, visitors to coach. {Continued from page 9} sport,” said John-Paul Pryor, editor of the magazine and com can create their own hangtag animation by using STILL HUFFING AND PUFFING: The New York Times previously the arts and culture editor at Dazed Digital. a Facebook application. — AMY WICKS and Huffington Post Parentlode blog dispute isn’t “I think people will be surprised at the kind of things going away. in there.” It includes interviews with Yoko Ono, Seth KARL’S FINE PRINT: Karl Lagerfeld is known to be a crowd Arianna Huffington told New York Magazine in a story Rogen, the Chapman Brothers, Perry Farrell, Kirsten Dunst, pleaser, and on Feb. 7 he will be courting an audience published on Monday, “We’re sticking with the name. Ezra Miller, The Jesus and Mary Chain and Miranda July. of 800 million-plus. The designer has agreed to be I’m not changing it.” Each digital story will incorporate shopping global guest editor on that day for Metro International The Times, which filed a lawsuit on Nov. 4, said features that allow readers to immediately purchase newspapers. The Kaiser is taking a page from Lady Gaga, it’s not backing down either. “We’re proceeding with items worn by subjects in the magazine’s features or who did the honors on May 17 and reached more than the lawsuit,” Times spokeswoman Eileen Murphy told fashion layouts. The London-based fast-fashion retailer 800 million people in the process. Lagerfeld will spend WWD. In the lawsuit, the Times is putting e-commerce the day in the company’s Paris newsroom working with claimed that the Parentlode blog secondary to the editorial editors and providing illustrations and commentary name constitutes trademark mission of the magazine, for “The World According to Karl” edition. The special infringement. Lisa Belkin was the noted Topman executives. issue will kick off Metro’s coverage for fashion weeks author of the Times’ Motherlode “Articles will have in New York, London, Milan and Paris, with coverage blog for three years before she related products running in Metro’s newspapers in 100 cities in 22 left for The Huffington Post represented at the bottom countries. The newspapers has a daily readership of in October and started the of the article so that these more than 17 million. Parentlode blog. The Times can be bought from our “I love daily papers and it’s fun to be part of one of claimed in its lawsuit that the site — however these have them just for the day. Metro is on a worldwide scale Parentlode name is a “deliberate to be truly relevant and and it’s even more fun,” Lagerfeld said. attempt to mislead readers into inspirational,” explained As part of the lead-up, Metro readers will be mistakenly believing it was the Topman Generations will launch on Nov. 30. Grazia Amico, Topman’s encouraged to compete in a Look Book competition same blog, albeit with a slightly head of e-commerce. where they will submit their own fashion statements to different name and location.” “The premise of this a global Web site to try to win a trip to Paris to be the The Times sent Huffington a cease-and-desist letter project is engagement and information editorial assistant on Feb. 6, as well as in late October. The Huffington Post then removed its at the forefront, with commercialization an assortment of items from Lagerfeld’s “motherlode” tags from its Parentlode posts but went secondary,” added Jason Griffiths, Topman’s collections. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG no farther. marketing director. In response, the Times filed the lawsuit in a U.S. Topman is the sibling chain to MODEL INTERVIEW: Naomi Campbell is to District Court in Manhattan earlier this month but The Topshop. Both are owned by Sir Philip don a new hat — as editor at large Huffington Post’s parent company, AOL, has not yet Green’s Arcadia Group. — DAVID LIPKE of the Russian and German editions been served. A Times spokeswoman did not say when of Interview magazine. The model that would happen but said that the Times has “no COACH’S POPPY SPOT: On Black Friday, has penned the introduction to intention of dropping the suit.” Coach will break its first television the December issue of the Russian A Huffington Post spokesman said, “We don’t commercial for Poppy Flower, a new version of the magazine, slated to comment on matters of litigation.” — JOHN KOBLIN fragrance. The 30-second commercial hit newsstands on Friday. It features will run through Christmas on national Leonardo DiCaprio on the cover, shot TOPMAN GOES EDITORIAL: Add Topman to the expanding networks such as ABC and the C W, by Brigitte Lacombe and redesigned by list of e-commerce sites banking on editorial content to according to a spokesman. Poppy American artist Richard Phillips. Q&As by draw in shoppers. The U.K.-based high street retailer Flower’s spots will launch in tandem Campbell will feature in the German will launch a monthly online magazine called Topman with another campaign for the “Best Gift issue of Interview due out on Jan. 20, Generation on Nov. 30. Tag,” which includes a series of eight though the identities of the subjects Accessed globally via a link on topman.com, the video animations that show hangtags Leonardo DiCaprio on the cover are still under wraps. interactive title will offer feature stories, opinion re-creating the Statue of Liberty, of Interview magazine. — NATASHA MONTROSE