▲ RETAIL: EYE: Partying Michael Kors with Elizabeth and Heidi Banks, Ginnifer Klum team Goodwin and with Saks For Julianne Moore,

Fifth Avenue page 4. ▲

more, ▲ ACCESSORIES: for Key to the see Tory Burch launches Cure, page 3. WWD.com. eyewear, page 9.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 15, 2009 • $3.00

WWDAccessories/Innerwear/Legwear MONDAY The Full Story For Balenciaga pre-spring, Nicolas Ghesquière saluted Cristóbal Balenciaga, the founder of the house, with sculptural silhouettes featuring plenty of volume in luxurious fabrics. Here, his little double-breasted dress with a full, swingy skirt. For more new looks, see pages 6 to 8.

Counting Every Penny: Stores’ Cost-Cutting May Transform Retail By Evan Clark CONSUMERS AREN’T THE ONLY ONES cutting back. Retailers are reining in their spending — with most broadline players slashing millions from their budgets as they try to counter withering sales. Although some, such as Wal- Mart Stores Inc., continue to pump money into their businesses to grab market share, the majority are drastically slimming down within their business models. And if consumer spending doesn’t bounce back, retailers will have to make more drastic transformational changes that could further reshape the industry, said experts. Sears Holdings Corp., Macy’s Inc., Dillard’s Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Saks Inc., Nordstrom Inc., Neiman Marcus Inc. and See Cost, Page 12 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE MAITRE DOMINIQUE BY PHOTO 2 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 WWD.COM JA Apparel Turns to Licensing By Brenner Thomas get the categories into additional doors. The move marks JA’s steady shift from manu- JA Apparel Corp., the company that facturer to brand manager. “Five years ago, you WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday owns the Joseph Abboud brands, is continu- could be a generalist, but today you no longer ing its shift from manufacturer to brand man- can,” Staff said. “Wholesale will be less of a focus. ager with the announcement of three major We’re becoming experts in brand building.” FASHION licensing deals. The deal with Ike Behar, which calls for From intricate draping to neck ruffs to playfully The initiatives are with Modextil Inc. for sports- product for fall 2009, will give the Behar fam- 6 elaborate necklaces and sparkling beads, wear, Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. for neckwear and ily a shirt range more modestly priced than its Ike Behar for dress shirts. The moves will en- eponymous line. “This new association it’s the finishing touches that count. able the company to focus on its heritage with Joseph Abboud allows us to expand GENERAL clothing business, which it manufactures our business to a broader segment,” Retailers are reining in their spending, with most domestically. said Alan Behar, president. The deal 1 “This will allow us to take a laser was orchestrated partly through John broadline players slashing millions of dollars from focus on the tailored-clothing business — WwD Fowler, the former creative director their budgets to counter soft sales. what we do best,” said JA Apparel chief Men’s for Joseph Abboud, who now consults 3 Warnaco Group is making a big push to strengthen executive officer Marty Staff. “We’ve found for Ike Behar. Calvin Klein Underwear with a major relaunch for partners who are experts in their field and Joseph Abboud neckwear, produced by fall and new product for spring. will help drive profits for the brand.” PVH, which also manufactures furnishings for ACCESSORIES: Tory Burch, who’s launching Known as a tailored-clothing brand, JA Apparel Joe Joseph Abboud, will hit stores this fall. 9 has ramped up its product offering in the last five Sportswear, made by Modextil, a privately held sunglasses with Luxottica, knows a great pair of years, producing Canadian company shades can really up the glamour quotient. denim, accessories, best known for its 10 Retail pioneer Selma Weiser, founder of Charivari, luggage and a low- contemporary brand died late Friday of congestive heart failure at the er-priced line, Joe The strength we enjoy in Report, is to launch age of 84. Joseph Abboud, via “ for holiday 2009. licenses. However, clothing, these [licensees] have in The shift is 11 The House Appropriations Committee admitted a it continued to make also prompting JA congressional mandate for scanning of all U.S.- sportswear and fur- their respective category. Frankly, Apparel to leverage bound cargo ships isn’t feasible. nishings in-house. its tailored cloth- Public Clothing’s Generra brand will open its first The brand also inked they will be able to compete in ing expertise. It has 11 freestanding store in Manhattan’s Meatpacking a number of master begun producing District after establishing itself in Japan. licenses for distribu- these areas better than we can.­ private-label cloth- tion in foreign mar- — Marty Staff, JA Apparel Corp.” ing and has signed EYE kets such as India contract work for The Chateau Marmont in West Hollywood got its s 4 and China. another men’s wear fair share of fashion action last week with two Evan Rachel Wood in Staff said as the economy has slowed and retail brand, which Staff declined to name. Suit licens- back-to-back industry fetes. partners demand more from vendors, JA Apparel ing deals may also be in the offing. Jean-Paul Gaultier. had to consider licensing. “The strength we enjoy The licensing partnerships are the second Classified Advertisements...... 15 in clothing, these [licensees] have in their respec- major shift in strategy for JA Apparel this year. tive category,” he said. “Frankly, they will be able Earlier this spring, the company signed a deal To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is to compete in these areas better than we can.” with J.C. Penney Co. Inc. that gave the retailer [email protected], using the individual’s name. Furnishings and sportswear have penetrated exclusive distribution for its Joe line — a move WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 only 30 percent of the doors where the brand’s that provided the brand with a strong foothold FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. clothing is sold. Staff said licenses could help in the moderate tier. VOLUME 197, NO. 123. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Auction for Filene’s Basement Drags On Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS By Vicki M. Young and Jean E. Palmieri alleging that the auction failed to follow court- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA approved procedures. The auction reopened on 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed The next round of the battle for Friday but could not be concluded. on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Filene’s Basement is scheduled to enter its sec- Filene’s Basement filed for Chapter 11 bank- For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online ond week today with the resumption of the auc- ruptcy court protection on May 4, less than two at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. tion for the bankrupt off-price retailer. weeks after being acquired by FB II Acquisition Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please On Friday, The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT and Crown Acquisitions, a New York real RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, estate firm, joined forces and bid $67.7 UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER million. Rival Syms Corp. and its finan- MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY cial partner, Vornado Realty Trust, bid WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE $61.3 million. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. According to sources close to the pro- cess, Syms and Vornado are expected to move higher when bidding resumes, and Men’s Wearhouse and Crown Acquisitions DAILY That’s just an older are expected to do the same. “ A source familiar with the bidding said it QUote guy and a younger girl. has become “amazingly complex for so small a deal.” There are all kinds of strange In May, Crown Acquisitions became the stalking horse bidder and said it pairings that go way beyond that. would buy Filene’s Basement’s assets, in- cluding 17 of its 25 stores, for $22 million. Two groups are in a bidding war for Filene’s Basement. — Woody Allen, talking about the May-December” romance On June 5, however, an affiliate of Men’s in his new film “Whatever Works.” Page 4. Wearhouse, K&G Acquisition Corp., outbid Corp., an affiliate of Buxbaum Group. Filene’s both Crown and the Syms-Vornado team with Basement’s previous owner, Retail Ventures an offer of $67 million. Inc., said the off-pricer suffered from liquidity CORRECTION Last week, both Crown and Syms submitted issues. A number of stores were closed earlier Dunhill is not vacating its retail space at 545 Madison Avenue in documents with the Delaware bankruptcy court this year. Manhattan. This was incorrect in a Fashion Scoop on page 12, Friday. coming this week Lil’ Kim at the Dior TODAY ON Beauty Luncheon. MONDAY: NRF Loss Prevention THURSDAY: Hong Kong .com Conference & Expo, Los Jewellery & Gem Fair WWD Angeles (through Wednesday). (through Sunday). • New Featured Images: The week in parties • WWD Trend: Cold weather outerwear TUESDAY: Pitti Uomo and Pitti W, FRIDAY: Sposaitalia Collezioni, Florence, Italy (through Friday). Milan (through Sunday).

ella • Additional photos from resort-cruise, including d • The U.S. Labor Department Balenciaga, Lanvin, Marchesa, Lela Rose, Akris, releases the Producer Price SATURDAY: Milan Men’s Cynthia Rowley, Etro and VPL by Victoria Bartlett Index for May. Ready-To-Wear Shows • Resort accessories from Rene Caovilla, (through June 23). WEDNESDAY: The Labor Sar Donato by Brian Atwood, Giuseppe Zanotti, Anya Hindmarch, Department releases the SUNDAY: White Homme, Milan

Photo Kara Ross, Casadei, Celestina, and Sergio Rossi Consumer Price Index for May. (through June 23). WWD, monday, june 15, 2009 3 WWD.COM Kors, Klum Team Up for Saks’ Key to the Cure Campaign By Marc Karimzadeh a family member or friend that you can give to support a very worthy cause.” The designer drew design inspiration for the T-shirt from both Klum and NEW YORK — Michael Kors and Heidi Klum, “Project Runway” collabora- Lauder. “In my mind, I was thinking, what do these two women have in com- tors, are extending their rapport to a charitable cause. mon?” he said. “Both of them have a great sense of humor, they both appreci- The duo has been tapped by Saks Fifth Avenue and The Breast ate glamour. I was playing around with it, and when I was down in Florida, I Cancer Research Foundation for Saks’ 2009 Key to the Cure campaign thought, ‘I love the idea of Palm Beach punk, because I always love the idea — with Klum serving as this year’s ambassador and Kors designing of taking a panther print, and in pink, it is feminine and glamorous. Every the limited edition T-shirt that benefits the cause. woman I know wants to live in white jeans, so if you can throw it on with The public service announcement, featuring Klum wearing Kors’ white jeans or a skinny black pant, it’s the perfect thing.” T-shirt, will appear in fashion and lifestyle magazines in September Once again, Saks is organizing a special charity shopping weekend and October. The $40 T-shirt will launch at Saks Fifth Avenue stores, around the initiative. This year, it will take place Oct. 15 to 18, and its Off 5th units and on saks.com on Oct. 1, with a part of the pro- Saks plans to donate 2 percent of sales up to $250,000 to local and ceeds going to local charity partners. national women’s cancer organizations and research centers. In ad- For Kors, participating in this campaign also means much to him dition, Saks will make a $500,000 contribution to the Breast Cancer personally. The mother of Lance Le Pere, executive vice president Research Foundation. and creative director at his company and Kors’ partner, passed away Over the past 10 years, these shopping weekends at Saks have gener- from breast cancer, and the designer has had many people in his ated more than $32 million toward cancer research. family, as well as his friends, affected by the disease. Klum and Kors join a lengthy list of celebrities and designers who Kors was full of praise for the program and Evelyn Lauder, who have participated in this campaign. Gwyneth Paltrow was its ambassa- founded Breast Cancer Research Foundation in 1993, for their dor last year, and Karl Lagerfeld designed the special T-shirt. Others achievements. “The number of advances have been pretty remark- have included Hilary Swank with a T-shirt by Diane von Furstenberg, able in the last few years, and I think that keeping the noise about Renée Zellweger with Juicy Couture, Glenn Close with Oscar de la the situation up is so important,” he said. “If this is a way that I can Renta, Charlize Theron with Marc Jacobs and Nicole Kidman with give back and at the same time design something that perhaps makes Stella McCartney. you feel a little glamorous and puts a bit of a smile on your face, it is “We really could not have thought of a better and more natural col- a triple win-win.” laboration for the campaign than to have Michael behind the design “It’s important that we all work continuously to find of the shirt and Heidi as the face of it,” Saks’ chairman and chief the cure for cancer and to find answers,” Klum said. “This Heidi Klum, executive officer Stephen I. Sadove said. “I believe that their partner- year’s T-shirt is fabulous and not just because Michael, in the T-shirt ship for KTTC will be another tremendous success that people will my fashion inspiration and great friend, designed it. It’s designed by really embrace and one that helps Saks keep the momentum in our fun and comfortable and really a great gift for yourself or Michael Kors. efforts to raise money for cancer research and treatment.” fashion scoops Calvin Expands Intimates her “Twilight” look, which leaned more toward Audrey MORE, MORE, MORE: Additional presenters have been Hepburn, albeit a “pretty bad ass” one, she added. By Karyn Monget confirmed for the 2009 CFDA Awards taking place tonight. Jack White from The White Stripes will present RONNIE WOOD TAKES LIBERTY: Another unexpected The Warnaco Group Inc. is Anna Sui with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement celebrity has thrown their hat into the fashion ring. This making a big push to strengthen its Award. In a switch, Diane Kruger will now present this time, Rolling Stone turned fine artist Ronnie Wood is Calvin Klein Underwear franchise year’s Womenswear Designer of the Year award — she collaborating with Liberty of London to create a collection with a major relaunch for fall and was initially slated to present accessories — and Kerry of clothing and accessories called Ronnie Wood for Liberty product introductions for spring. Washington will present this year’s Accessories Designer of of London. The collection, which will launch for fall, Warnaco, coming off a first quar- the Year award. Jimmy Fallon, meanwhile, will do the honors includes accessories such as travel holdalls and clutches ter when net income more than for the Menswear Designer of the Year category at Alice through to jersey dresses for women and cotton T-shirts for doubled to $37.6 million, saw sales Tully Hall, where the awards are taking place. Blake Lively, men, all of which will feature images taken from Wood’s of Calvin Klein products, which in- who is presenting the Swarovski awards, will be wearing paintings, reworked into prints by Liberty of London’s clude jeans and underwear for men Michael Kors. She will sit with the designer, who is also creative director Tamara Salman. Some of the men’s and women, account for about 75 bringing Heidi Klum, Coco Rocha and Lauren Santo Domingo, T-shirts will also be printed with choice quotations from percent of the company’s top line. among others. Beyond the nominees and other designers, Wood’s career, written in a graffiti font. “I wanted to work The two new major initiatives by others expected to attend include Ashley Olsen, Whitney with Liberty of London because of the great tradition that Calvin Klein Underwear are the Port, Doutzen Kroes, Bernadette Peters, Dree Hemingway, Liberty has of artistic collaborations,” said Wood, referring Perfectly Fit and Seductive Comfort Hannelore Knuts, Padma Lakshmi, Molly Sims, Bradley to the store’s historic partnerships with artists such as Customized Fit bras. mitra Cooper, Claire Danes, Hilary Rhoda, Alexis Bledel, Gerard William Morris, Archibald Knox and Bernard Nevill. Wood’s The global relaunch of Perfectly Butler, Jamie King, Tallulah Willis and Desirée Rogers, who is line will hit Liberty’s flagship store on London’s Regent Fit bras, introduced in fall 2005, accepting an award on behalf of First Lady Michelle Obama. Street in October, and retail prices will range from 175 will include distribution to 1,050 pounds, or $288, for a T-shirt through to 2,000 pounds, or

doors of major stores and specialty robert photo by FASHION’S FAVORED FEW: Christopher Bailey and Natalie $3,300, for a hand painted leather holdall. The collection operations, and will feature a hang- The Seductive Comfort Massenet are the latest fashion figures to receive a nod will also be sold at wholesale from this week onwards. tag with a tag line saying, “Now Customized Lift With Lace from Britain’s Queen Elizabeth. On Saturday, Massenet, More Perfect Than Ever.” Perfectly Wing Bra. the founder of Net-a-porter.com, and Bailey, creative WU IN LONE STAR STATE: Bad weather delayed but couldn’t Fit bras will retail for $44. director of Burberry, were both named MBEs, or Members stop Jason Wu. Violent thunderstorms that canceled flights Bob Mazzoli, chief creative officer of Calvin Klein of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, as part and knocked out power to a half-million customers forced Underwear, said the focus of the relaunch is “aesthetics and of the Queen’s birthday honors list. Both were awarded the designer to miss his own party at Nordstrom in Dallas functionality.” the honors for services to the fashion industry. Meanwhile on Thursday night. But he finally made it on Friday. “We “With the introduction of the new Perfectly Fit, we’ve dialed Professor Frances Corner, head of the London College are trying to build relationships with the stores that have it up,” Mazzoli said. “Revolutionary technology provides ulti- of Fashion, was made an OBE, or Officer of the Most been with us since the beginning,” Wu said at Nordstrom mate comfort and a smooth, sleek look, making Perfectly Fit a Excellent Order of the British Empire, also for services to in the NorthPark Center mall. “It’s about these one-on-one sexy, everyday wardrobe staple. Lace, color and iconic prints the fashion industry, while her colleague at the London encounters to make it extra special [for the consumer] were introduced in the initial launch, and now the offering has College of Fashion, Professor Helen Storey, was made an and going the extra mile.” His collection is carried in five been updated with a modern, new demi silhouette.” MBE for services to art. In the publishing world, Nicholas Nordstrom stores, and the designer’s fame for designing First Five key styles are a smooth Push Up Bra, a Push Up With Coleridge, managing director of Condé Nast U.K., was Lady Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown has given him a big Lace Bra, a sleek T-Shirt Bra, a T-Shirt With Lace Bra and a made a CBE, or Commander of the Most Excellent boost, said Margaret Hinojosa de Garza, Nordstrom’s designer framed Demi Bra, which offers a “sexy neckline, smooth con- Order of the British Empire, for services to the magazine buyer. Wu created six exclusive pre-fall pieces each for toured shape and frame for extra support,” he said. Product fea- publishing industry. Interior designer David Mlinaric five key accounts — Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf tures include a line-free edge at the neckline for a no-show look, was made a CBE for services to interior design and to Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Jeffrey — and he plans to four-way stretch foam for flexibility, plush underwire channel- heritage. And as part of the Queen’s diplomatic service do that for additional accounts for spring. “This economy has ing, a cushion closure for comfort, two-ply wings and microfiber and overseas list, Vidal Sassoon was made a CBE for forced us to reevaluate what we consider to be luxury, and straps, which are graded by size, as well as logo treatment. services to the British hairdressing industry, while actor that’s about not seeing the same thing everywhere,” he said. Helen McCluskey, president of Warnaco Intimate Apparel, and social fixture Alan Cumming was made an OBE for said the Seductive Comfort Customized Lift Bra is “our num- services to film, theater and the arts, and to activism for MODEL CROWD: Times Square isn’t usually a model hot ber-one style.” Eva Mendes was the model for the launch in fall equal rights for the gay and lesbian community. spot but Wednesday night, a crowd of them descended 2008 in a multimillion-dollar ad campaign, and will continue to upon the AMC Empire 25 theater at 42nd and Eighth for be the model of Calvin Klein Underwear this fall. DRESSING FOR THE TWILIGHT HOUR: Now that the first the official premiere of “The Last International Playboy,” “Our consumer has responded positively to the idea of cus- movie in the “Twilight” franchise has grossed more than a New York-centric independent film starring Jason Behr tomization in bras,” McCluskey said. “We are excited to offer the $382 million at the box office worldwide, the young and featuring Lydia Hearst. “This is hopefully just the Seductive Comfort customer, who is looking for increased cover- cast members have upgraded both their wardrobes beginning,” Hearst said. “I’m a model, but you can expect age and support, additional options to complete her wardrobe. and wheels. In the second installation, “The Twilight a lot more from me soon.” She sports a red coiffure in one We recently introduced the Customized Lift concept in strapless Saga: New Moon,” which recently finished filming in scene and hinted that she would be dyeing her signature and will add…lace, fashion colors and prints for spring 2010.” Montepulciano, Italy, Ashley Greene will sport a gray blonde hair jet black for an upcoming project. “I can’t The Seductive Comfort Customized Lift Bra, T-Shirt Bra ombré jacket by Michael Kors and zip around in a talk about that one yet, though,” she teased. Co-host of and Underwire Bra each retail for $44. The Seductive Comfort yellow Porsche as the vixenish vampire Alice. “We had Bravo’s “Make Me a Supermodel,” Nicole Trunfio has a Customized Lift Strapless Bra With Lace, the Sexy Contour With a lot more [money and time] to work with,” the starlet racy cameo in the film and was in attendance, as was Lift Bra and Lace Underwire Bra each retail for $46. said at Thursday’s party feting the opening of Rock & model Lily Donaldson. At the after party, held at Hudson The main features of the Customized Lift concept are fit, Republic’s new store in Los Angeles, where she was Terrace on Manhattan’s far west side, Behr was on hand coverage and support targeted to the C-to-DD-cup customer, as joined by Natasha Henstridge. Despite her penchant for with his co-star India Ennenga. “It was great to work on an well as lift, strap and band width customized by size. The de- Rock & Republic — four pairs of jeans and a couple independent film like this,” said Behr, best known for his gree of lift increases as cup size decreases, said McCluskey. of dresses, for starters — Greene couldn’t slip any into role as Max Evans on television’s “Roswell.” 4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 WWD.COM

Elizabeth Banks Julianne Moore with Nicola in LOGO by Lori Maramotti, both Goldstein. in Max Mara. Working It In Gigi Levangie Grazer’s novel “The Starter Wife,” the spouse of a Hollywood magnate has to figure out what to do when her husband leaves her for Britney Spears. In her new novel, “Queen Takes King,” the action takes place on for PMc Park Avenue — 740 Park, to be exact — where a woman has AN

YM to figure out what to do when she learns on Page Six that her husband of H 25 years is having an affair with a morning show anchor. The saga in the

ZACH book appears to be inspired by the divorce of Les and Nancy Moonves, but the

BY CBS honcho is taking it in stride. He showed up to Grazer’s book party at Mr. Chow in TriBeCa on Thursday with his new wife, Julie Chen, and Grazer OTHERS swore that all is well. “He’s my muse,” Grazer admitted, as Julianne Moore,

ALL Amanda Hesser and Candace Bushnell mingled nearby. “I’m forever grateful to Mr. Moonves.” Meanwhile, Blaine Trump, Aerin Lauder, Lauren duPont, Fabiola Beracasa and Cornelia Guest were feting another tome uptown: the first book from Ruffian designers Claude Morais and Brian Wolk, aptly titled “Ruffian Inside Out.” While sipping

eric johnson; BY Champagne, the partygoers explored host John Demsey’s town house. s

ELL Evan Rachel The previous night, Amy Ryan, Seth Meyers, Dick Cavett, Swoosie Kurtz, Patrick Wilson W

AX Wood in Jean and Barbara Walters hit a screening of Woody Allen’s latest flick, “Whatever Works,” Paul Gaultier. the filmmaker’s first project set in the Big Apple after a string of foreign features. ella; M Stars Larry David, Evan Rachel Wood and Patricia Clarkson were on hand for the after d

ar party, hosted by the Cinema Society and The New Yorker and held, fittingly, at S Brooklyn’s River Café overlooking the Manhattan skyline. But the picturesque setting wasn’t the only topic of conversation. Many also discussed the on-screen May-

Donato December romance between David and Wood.

in BY Allen, naturally, didn’t see what the fuss was about. “I think it’s incredible that dw anyone would ever want to spend more than three hours with me and not want to oo

G leave,” said David. ;

dd “That’s just an older guy and a younger girl,” said the director, who arrived with u R wife Soon-Yi Previn. “There are all kinds of strange pairings that go way beyond that.” For additional images and coverage cott S l l l on the latest in nightlife, arts and BY y culture, see WWD.com The Chateau Marmont got its share of fashion action last week with two back-to-back industry fetes. Wednesday night the lobby was the scene of a lavish dinner in honor of

Book Part Elizabeth Banks, Women in Film’s 2009 Max Mara Face of the Future. The brand’s Nicola Maramotti hosted the evening — a precursor to the Crystal + Lucy awards ceremony — razer G

; and 60 guests including Joy Bryant, Gina Gershon, Mena Suvari, Perrey Reeves and Keke Palmer m helped toast the actress. Banks worked her way around two dining tables, while Gershon and Reeves Woody Allen and ullan.co exchanged fashion tips and styling recommendations in the ladies room. m c Larry David The next night, Ginnifer Goodwin played hostess at a dinner for Australian brother- m and-sister design duo Marc Freeman and Camilla Freeman-Topper. But the actress admitted

atrick she’s no fashion plate. “I fully accept that I need a stylist and a hair and makeup p / person in my life,” said Goodwin. “I’m not good at doing it on my own.” RANCH B REAS D AN

BY ichner; Max Mara E teve S BY HOTOS creening P S

Gigi Levangie Claude Morais,Morais, Brooke Shields and Ginnifer GoodwinGoodwin inin Emmy Rossum and Joy Grazer in Dolce Brian WolkWolk andand Stanley Tucci at the Camilla andand Marc.Marc. Bryant, both in Max Mara. & Gabbana. Blaine Trump.Trump. River Café. Works Whatever

Maxwell “BLACKsummers’night” on the road, selling out 33 venues, including Radio City Music Hall. He fine-tuned the first of the trilogy — a collection of dark, reflective tracks with a variety of fast and smooth THEN & NOW beats — and in April released a single, “Pretty Wings.” An up-tempo Like a sixth grader who didn’t finish his homework, R&B second song, “Bad Habits,” debuted on iTunes last Tuesday. singer Maxwell has several explanations as to where he’s been for Maxwell’s return comes at a time of shifting tastes in music. In the last eight years. First, he blames himself. “I never saw myself as the late Nineties, his sound helped define the neo-soul category with being a power machine mega star,” he says. “A person who every year contemporaries D’Angelo and Lauryn Hill. But with the new Millennium, they have a movie, they have an album, they have a book, they have a tastes turned toward the pop tunes of Usher and Britney Spears. movie, another album, a this, a that.” “In some ways, I was waiting for that cyclical swing back,” Maxwell Next, he blames his lifestyle. As a performer on the road, “everyone says. “Everything has a time and a space. I feel like something’s knows where you are every day of every second of every hour. In this changing. Especially when Amy Winehouse came out, I’m talking to time [off] I was totally free with great wanderlust around.” 17-year-olds that I know, and they’re freaking out about her. That’s when And finally, he blames others. Love songs don’t write themselves, I thought, things are getting fresh.” so he needed to get involved with “some really amazing women that Sartorially, too, Maxwell has evolved, trading his soul hippie persona didn’t know [me].” (Model Doutzen Kroes is rumored to have been replete with jeans and distressed leather jackets for a smoother, Sam one of them.) “I got to write really good songs from that,” he says. Cooke-inspired look. “When you look at him in pictures, that’s, like, iconic Whatever the case, Maxwell is back and releasing sh-t right there,” says Maxwell. “He’s a black man with elegance. He could “BLACKsummers’night,” the first CD of a planned trilogy, on July 7. make all the girls go crazy, and guys wanted to be him.” In preparation, the 36-year-old has been quietly reacquainting Maxwell’s new grown-up sensibility means eschewing more adventurous himself with his audience. Last June, he sang a tribute to Al Green choices, like the custom sneakers he once cleaned with a toothbrush and at the BET Awards, his first live performance in seven years. Though Clorox. “When you’re in your 20s you can wear pink and shiny sh-t, because his voice was unmistakable, fans almost didn’t recognize the singer you’re young and it doesn’t matter,” he says. “But when you’re in the 30s without his trademark afro, now buzzed into a tame, short ’do. you have to make sure you stay male, stay strong and stay fashionable.” Shortly after that, Maxwell tested out music from — Stephanie D. Smith A COMMUNITY OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

WOMENS, BETTER, BRIDGE, PREMIUM, CONTEMPORARY, YOUNG CONTEMPORARY, JUNIORS, ECOLLECTION, KIDS, SWIM, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Featuring: ANONAME JEANS · BE SEDUCED · BUFFALO JEANS · DESIGUAL · DIVINE RIGHTS OF DENIM

DV BY DOLCE VITA · FRENZII · SOUL REVIVAL · THURSDAY ISLAND · TITAN INDUSTRIES · ZOA

BCBGENERATION · CLOTHING FOR MODERN TIMES · FRENCH CONNECTION · KENSIE GIRL · KERSH

MAC & JAC · MATTY M · MISS ME · STEVE MADDEN · JUNKFOOD · MIGHTY FINE · REPORT FOOTWEAR

XOXO · DAVID KAHN JEANS · NALLY & MILLIE · VOOM · XCVI · CARLOPIK · ELLIOT LAUREN

FABRIZIO GIANI · LINDA LUNDSTROM · BARBARA LESSER · EXIST · KAREN KANE · PRONOVIAS

HOBO INTERNATIONAL · SEASONAL WHISPERS · SONDRA ROBERTS · VERA BRADLEY · APPAREL VENTURES GOTTEX · SAUVAGE · CACHAREL · HAZEL KIDS · ROCK STAR BABY · STAR RIDE KIDS · ROCKNSOCKS

EFIK??8CC K?<C8JM<>8J:FEM

I<>@JK@:FEC@E<%:FD FI8K/..%,,+%+/*+ 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 Special Effects From intricate draping to neck ruffs to playfully elaborate necklaces and sparkling beads, it’s the finishing touches that count.

Lanvin: Aloha! Alber Elbaz’s spring collection for Lanvin is a delightful mix of the exotic and chic. His “accidental tourist” gathered up fashion gems from Tahiti, Romania, India — you name it — and mixed them with her everyday wardrobe. It added up to a fun and eccentric collection that was slightly folkloric and also featured tailored looks, long dresses, denim, jersey and bridal. Full skirts evoked Frida Kahlo; an Afghani top went over a chic black skirt with flower appliqués, and Elbaz’s signature pearls sprouted colorful flowers for a lei à la Lanvin. The holiday spirit continued in a silver sequin T-shirt and track pants set that looked ready for any dance floor in the world, while a vibrant turquoise evening dress oozed nonchalance.

Balenciaga: In his pre-spring collection for Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière paid homage to the voluminous silhouettes and couture fabrics of house founder Cristóbal. It was Balenciaga while nimbly straddling the masculine-feminine and urban-rustic divides. Trim leather jackets and pantsuits in men’s wear checks were softened with glossy silk blouses sprouting a ruffled collar or a bow at the waist, while balloon- sleeved utility parkas were animated with madras shirts that had thick neck ruffs. Rounding out this sophisticated and diverse collection were sleek and futuristic pantsuits in raw, jute- look silk, sculptural dresses with flaring crinoline skirts or cascading ruffles and a short guipure lace dress that evokes crochet and futuristic armor at the same time.

Marchesa: Give the customer what she wants is Georgina Chapman’s philosophy, and she showcased it in a tight lineup for t s Lanvin her Marchesa resort collection. She offered plenty of her Grecian one-shoulder gowns, intricate embroidered little dresses and draped and twisted tops, as well as lots of feathers on a variety of frocks, perfect for a holiday season in the city or on a beach. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Balenciaga

Balenciaga

For more resort collection Marchesa images, see WWD.com. RE T I MA E QU INI D DOM N ee A s in h rge c

Marchesa o ge BY PHOTOS 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 WWD.COM

Etro

Cynthia Rowley

Lela Rose

VPL Long on Charm For resort, Cynthia Rowley kept things fresh and sportif with a charming lineup of intarsia tennis sweaters, trompe l’oeil tops and arty digital-print shorts. But she worked a major eco- and recession-friendly vibe, too. One example: the graffiti-esque embellishments on dresses and skirts, which were actually leftover ribbons CHINSEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE and trims from past collections. “This collection is very fresh, feminine, flowery and blossoming,” said Veronica Etro as she sent out a well-edited collection of floral jersey dresses, paisley print skirts, jacquard jackets and coats and ruffled blouses — all in Etro’s mix-and-match manner. Meanwhile, Lela Rose’s resort collection was rich in color — deep blue, hunter green and red — as well

as Japanese-inspired prints and details such as origami folds and cutouts. There was a definite emphasis on GEORGE CENTENO, waistlines; lengths were shorter and the mood was sportier than usual, expressed in such looks as short cotton

faille skirts or easy city shorts teamed with delicate blouses and soft jackets. TALAYA Victoria Bartlett put the focus on liquid, layered silhouettes, underscoring the all-about-ease mentality at the core of her VPL line. Thus, her hoodies came elegantly deflated and languid, while shorts and jumpsuits

were gently draped. “It’s about comfort and the idea of liberating the body,” Bartlett said. PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Persol Exhibit Hits the Whitney EVERY EYEWEAR COMPANY HAS ITS CELLULOID Damiani at 85: Big Plans in the Works moments. For Persol, the U.S. big-screen debut came in 1968’s “The Thomas Crown Affair,” when Steve McQueen By Alessandra Ilari wore its PO 714 frame in the movie opener. While that sighting might not resonate as widely as Tom Cruise sport- MILAN — Damiani is intent on building its ing his Ray-Bans in “Risky Business,” it soon will — if watch division as the brand celebrates Persol execs have anything to do with it. its 85th anniversary. Enter the new Incognito Design Exhibition, opening Although Damiani first dabbled June 24 at New York’s Whitney Museum of American in watches more than a decade ago, Art. It’s aimed at celebrating — and helping the pub- it is now pressing on the accelerator lic discover — the rich 92-year history of the compa- by increasing its offerings, primarily ny. “We found this brand in our portfolio,” says Fabio designed for a female clientele. The d’Angelantonio, chief marketing offi cer of Luxottica new designs, which run from basic to Group, which picked up the line in 1995. “It had a fan- bling, will be available starting in the fall of 2010. Prices are still being set. Persol’s Incognito Design Exhibition. “We’re building a real and proper watch division because we have to treat the project like a new line and be fully dedicated,” said Guido Damiani, chairman and chief executive offi cer. The company has appointed Vito La Monica, a man- ager from Bulgari Time SA, as marketing director for Damiani’s Gomitolo rings. its namesake timepieces. He will be based in Lugano, Switzerland, where Damiani has a branch offi ce. lion euros, or $235.1 million. Damiani posted a net The acquisition in 2006 of the Rocca 1794 retail loss of 4.7 million euros, or $6.7 million, compared chain, which counts 20 high-end jewelry and watch with last year’s profi t of 7.6 million euros, or $10.8 stores in Italy, will boost Damiani’s retail profi le. million. Damiani’s 50 fl agships and some 450 select multibrand Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and units also will carry the timepieces. amortization dropped 94.7 percent to 1.1 million euros, The fi rm also has reedited its iconic Gomitolo ring or $1.6 million, down from last year’s 20.7 million collection, known for pavé-set pieces crafted to resem- euros, or $29.3 million. ble the winding of a ball of wool. The 12 anniversary All fi gures have been converted at average ex- rings were inspired by the colors of famous Italian art change rates for the period to which they refer. cities such as Venice, Verona, Pisa, Portofi no, Rome Adding to its Jil Sander and Martin Margiela jew- and Naples. Each style is only available in a limited elry licenses, Damiani further tightened its designer number of 85 pieces. ties with a recent licensing agreement to produce and Besides white and colored diamonds, the rings distribute Ferré jewelry. The pieces will be unveiled made with rose, yellow and white gold are encrusted during Ferré’s spring show in September. with a rainbow of stones including sapphires, ame- Fashion houses are knocking at the door, but thysts, rhodolites, citrines, topazes and tourmalines. Damiani said that doesn’t mean “we will open to ev- Damiani’s growth has been just as colorful. The eryone, though we’d like to increase our designer re- tastic story, but we weren’t telling it. We weren’t telling company, established by Enrico Damiani in 1924 and a lationships in the near future.” consumers enough about what the brand stands for. It favorite among wealthy families for one-of-a-kind piec- Damiani’s fully integrated production system, cre- was right to restart a journey for Persol.” es, is today listed on the Milan Bourse, has fi ve wide- ative know-how and retail network make it an appeal- That journey, in fact, began three years ago. Incognito reaching brands — Damiani, Bliss, Salvini, Alfi eri & ing partner for fashion fi rms. initially launched at the 2006 Milan Triennale, before St. John and Calderoni 1840 — and controls 80 stores. “Unlike 20 years ago when we were in contact with heading to Paris last year for a brief run at the Palais de Consolidated annual sales for the period ending Nicola Trussardi and Gianni Versace to do jewelry, the Tokyo art museum. This third leg of the exhibit, which March 31 totaled 149.8 million euros, or $212.7 mil- market is now ripe for designer jewelry as long as it takes over the Sculpture Garden at the Whitney for fi ve lion, a 9.5 percent decrease from last year’s 165.6 mil- fully refl ects the house’s aesthetic,” Damiani said. days, marks its Stateside debut. The gist is the same — to showcase and promote the various design patents, technological innovations, historical and cinematic mo- ments — as is the layout, which is divided into three parts. There’s a video wall, a 26-foot-long interactive Tory Burch Glams It Up With Eyewear touch-screen table and collection displays. “We wanted By Sophia Chabbott the temples, a shield frame with delicately studded to engage the consumer and have them interacting with leather temples and a collapsible frame that can fold the brand,” says d’Angelantonio of the tech-savvy setup. TORY BURCH IS LAUNCHING SUNGLASSES UNDER neatly into an clutch. So those display cases, featuring iconic styles like the PO her five-year-old signature brand, and she under- Burch has also incorporated her iconic prints onto 714? They’re actually 3-D projections. stands a great pair of shades can make the glamour the lenses of a mirrored aviator model. One frame There is, however, one key difference between this quotient soar. has an ombré effect, with colors graduating from Incognito exhibit and the others. In April, Persol held Burch is often photographed wearing sunglasses, transparent blue to green. Key colors in the collec- a separate exhibit of artists’ collaborations, called “A but the downside to having fabulous glasses is not tion, in addition to black and tortoise, are navy and Work of Persol,” at the Milan Furniture Fair. Videos of having them anymore. “I lose sunglasses all the time olive green. participating Persol artisans will be on display for the and it’s very frustrating,” she said. “It was a collaboration that was very organic,” fi rst time. D’Angelantonio notes the actual artwork will Tory Burch Eyewear, which launches in Burch said of the fi rm’s fi rst foray into licensing. not be on view. “So much of Persol is not just the fi nal November, is priced from $135 to $195 at retail, in Tory Burch footwear is a result of a production partner- product, but the process and manufacturing through sync with the sportswear brand’s roots in accessibly ship with the Camuto Group. Handbags and which this product has been introduced,” he explains. priced fashion and accessories. Typically, luxury costume jewelry are pro- “That’s the similarity with the world of art. We’re cel- sunglasses range duced in-house. ebrating the process.” from $230 and up Tory Burch “Although these — Venessa Lau for brands such as sunglasses. are diffi cult economic Prada and Bulgari. times, we continue Burch joins con- to invest in areas temporary labels such as in which we believe FINDINGS Diane von Furstenberg and there is a void within JEWEL IN THE CROWN: Fabergé, which has a major rebranding Marc by Marc Jacobs that have the market,” said Pierre under way, plans to preview its fi rst high jewelry collection expanded into eyewear. Fay, executive vice next month during the Paris couture shows. It will launch the The sunglasses are president of wholesale for collection and a new Web site in September. produced by Luxottica Luxottica North America, Fabergé Ltd., controlled by the London-based Pallinghurst Group SpA, which which also makes Ralph Resources, acquired trademarks and licenses associated holds a six-year license Lauren, Tiffany & Co. with the Fabergé name in January 2007 from Unilever plc. for the design, manu- and Dolce & Gabbana Mark Dunhill is chief executive offi cer, and his team includes facture and global dis- frames. “As today’s con- the London-based former editor Katharina Flohr, who is tribution of sunglasses sumer still has a strong de- creative director. Dunhill said the collection “will bring a and prescription frames. sire for luxury and name brands, contemporary interpretation to the aesthetic and emotional Ophthalmic frames will we feel it’s more important than qualities that established Fabergé works of art as the debut early next year. ever to offer the widest range of the ultimate objects of desire.” “I spent a lot of time best product and price ranges to our developing the lenses and customers. PERRIARD EXITS CONCORD: Movado Group said Friday that frames,” Burch said. “We’re trying to push Fay declined to project sales for the line. Vincent Perriard, global president of Concord, will leave things to a different level.” “It’s building out our lifestyle assortment,” the company. In 2007, the Movado-owned Concord was Inspired by icons such as James Dean, Peter said Brigitte Kleine, president of Tory Burch of reenvisioned as a more high-end and limited edition fi ne watch Fonda and Faye Dunaway, as well as her parents’ launching eyewear. line, with launches such as the complex C1 Quantum Gravity trips to Greece, Istanbul and Morocco in the Sixties, Kleine said the company is looking to expand into timepieces and the sporty C1 Collection. The fi rm’s Swiss Seventies and Eighties, Burch’s elegant and subtle other categories through licenses, including fragrance, management team will support the Concord brand until a new frames run the gamut. There are modifi ed plastic cat watches and costume jewelry, of which it produces a management team is named, said Movado chairman, president eye frames done in navy with a discreet gold logo at small amount in-house. and chief executive offi cer Efraim Grinberg. 10 WWD, monday, june 15, 2009 WWD.COM OBITUARY Selma Weiser, 84, Founder of Charivari By Karyn Monget us. Everybody came into Charivari to see Manhattan’s Upper West Side. That was was wheelchair bound, but she still had a what was new.” on April Fools’ Day of 1967. But Weiser very active mind. And she loved to hang Selma Weiser, the charismatic Anna Wintour, editor in chief of U.S. wasn’t fooling when she christened her around a lot with her kids.” retailer of avant-garde fashion who found- Vogue, said, “She very much came out of new store Charivari — French for “up- In the Eighties, Charivari was on a ed Charivari and in many ways kick-start- the same world as Geraldine Stutz. She roar.” That first boutique at 85th and growth track. The business peaked at ed global fashion in the U.S., died late was a true fashion original, a true fash- Broadway pioneered a trend of chic, six New York stores with a volume of $20 Friday at her home on the Upper West ion independent. She was really the first high-end boutiques on the Upper West million, had two licensed stores in Japan Side in Manhattan. The cause of death to discover the Japanese designers, and Side. Weiser was convinced that the pro- and was contemplating moves into new was congestive heart failure, said her son, she had an incredible nose for talent. She fessional women who were moving to the markets, such as California. But expan- Jon Weiser. She was 84. never cared about a commercial world or neighborhood would shop locally if the sion proved problematic and the com- Along with her son and daughter money, but she cared about supporting clothes were interesting and fresh. pany closed units at 79th and Amsterdam Barbara, Selma Weiser was credited with new designers and talent.” “She helped in the revival of neighbor- Avenue, Columbus Avenue and 81st discovering such talents as Marc Jacobs, hoods on the Upper West Side,” Street, Broadway and 84th Street and its Yohji Yamamoto, Anne Demeulemeester said Jon Weiser, who started up unit at 72nd Street and Columbus Avenue. and Veronique Branquinho, and creating Charivari’s men’s business in The two Japan stores closed in 1993. a hip, edgy atmosphere and merchandise Selma was really, really ahead 1971. Barbara Weiser entered Charivari even sought more fertile mix. The Weisers were among the first “ Charivari full-time in 1975, ground on the East Side, but its Madison in the U.S. to sell Giorgio Armani and of her time, looking at people splitting buying for the women’s and 78th Street shop also closed in 1997, the sporting British designer Katharine division and covering the in- after just three years in business. The fam- Hamnett, as well as Issey Miyake, Dolce who were really different.­ ternational markets more than ily-owned business filed for Chapter 11 in & Gabbana, Marithé + François Girbaud — Marc” Jacobs three months a year. September 1997 and its crown jewel, the and the way-out clothes of the British de- The Weisers’ impact on the 8,000-square-foot flagship at 16 West 57th sign firm Culture Shock. fashionable isle of Manhattan Street, closed in 1998. Reportedly, the unit “She had a terrible stroke in 1990 and Weiser, a dynamic merchant with car- had not gone unnoticed within the in- carried the business for several years, gen- was physically paralyzed on one side of rot-colored hair and a keen eye for the dustry. In 1983 they became the second erating enough healthy cash flow to support her body. But she never complained and next big trend, began her love affair with retailers to win a Coty Award for in- the other fledgling stores. The store report- always wanted to go out. She was so coura- retailing in the early Fifties, surveying novative merchandising. At the time, edly posted about $6 million in sales. geous. On Friday, she told her aide, ‘Let’s the market as a department store notions Charivari counted a number of celeb- Charivari was forced to liquidate go to P.J. Clarke’s for burgers.’ And then buyer, checking out bobby pins, hangers rity clients including Robert Redford, after a search for an investor came up she died that evening,” said Jon Weiser. and bathing caps. In 1959 she became a Warren Beatty, Nastassja Kinski and short. The flagship store had been in Marc Jacobs remembered, “All the dress buyer for a chain of specialty shops Mariel Hemingway. a downward spiral for three years and Weisers — Selma, Barbara and Jon — owned by Lane Bryant. By the mid-Six- Designer Cathy Hardwick remem- was a victim of overexpansion and in- were so important to me from the age of 15 ties, she was disenchanted by the depart- bered Weiser as “full of life, always creased competition from department when I begged them for a job. They gave ment store pace, and headed out on her laughing and making everybody laugh. stores and large specialty chains. By me my first job in fashion at Charivari at own with two teenagers to support. I met her in 1968 in Copenhagen dur- then, many big stores were aggressively 72nd Street. Selma was, I think, the first With her daughter in tow, she began ing fashion week. She was my first New pursuing the up-and-coming designers, to bring in Montana, Mugler — all these trudging around Manhattan looking at York friend and the only person I knew effectively diluting Charivari’s impact, great European designers. empty storefronts. She found one on in New York when I moved there in 1969. resulting in sales erosion and, eventu- “Selma was really, really ahead of her Lexington Avenue in the Eighties. Too dis- She was lots of fun. After she had her ally, late payments. time,” he continued, “looking at people orderly. Then she found one, at Broadway stroke, I would go to her penthouse every Funeral services will be held Tuesday who were really different. She was a and 85th Street, that was available for Wednesday and cook. She would say, ‘Oh, at 11:45 a.m. at The Riverside Chapel. A risk taker, in a way, especially being on three months. “Empty stores talk to me. good, I’m having 18 friends over for din- video which commemorated Charivari’s the Upper West Side, a neighborhood The one on Lexington Avenue said, ‘Move ner.’ She carried my clothes from the be- 20th anniversary in 1987 will be shown not known for its designer presence. on, Selma,’” Weiser told The New York ginning in ’69 to the very end.” at the service. “It’s really the story of her Working there as a kid I got to meet so Times in an interview in 1992. Elyse Kroll, founder and chairwoman life,” said Jon Weiser. many people in the industry, people I With a live go-go girl as window of ENK International, noted, “She was In addition to Jon and Barbara Weiser, know to this day and some no longer with dressing, she opened a new boutique on quite a star, a very strong personality. She she is survived by a sister, Lori Gordon. MEMO PAD Sponge Skincare Plans International Growth GET MOORE: A broad swath of New York’s men’s wear world packed onto Barneys New York-based Sponge Skincare, ity, effectiveness and care that goes into New York’s third floor on Thursday night to toast Jim Moore, GQ’s longtime creative a 10-item assortment of face and body how [products] are made.” director. Two of Barneys’ Madison Avenue windows were dedicated to Moore, this year’s care products that’s made in Greece, is The Sponge assortment features recipient of the CFDA’s Eleanor Lambert award. The displays were wallpapered with bullish about expansion this year. hypoallergenic products that are para- GQ covers and carpeted with handwritten thank-you The brand, which was launched ex- ben, alcohol and chemical free. In a Simon notes from designers. “You don’t need it for sure,” clusively last summer at Barneys New factory in a residential area of Athens, Doonan and read one cryptic note, signed by Domenico Dolce York locations in New York, Chicago, plants are boiled at different tempera- Jim Moore and Stefano Gabbana. San Francisco and Los Angeles, is close tures to produce extracts of rosemary, “We backed up a truck of stuff, basically, to wrapping up a one-year exclusive with peppermint, rose and olive leaf, among and Simon [Doonan] had to say, ‘You know, the retailer and has, according to found- other ingredients. it’s two windows,’” said Moore, who received er Markos Drakotos, set its sights on in- Sponge’s name is a reference to the congratulations from designers, editors, models ternational expansion. sponge harvesting operations centered and publicists. Designers Richard Chai, Calvin around the Greek island of Symi. “The Klein’s Italo Zucchelli, Thom Browne, Tim Hamilton, sponge absorbs nutrients from the sea,” Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus BEAUTY BEAT Drakotos remarked, “and the skin ab- Wainwright, Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos and Swaim sorbs nutrients from Sponge skincare.” Hutson each had a moment with the man of the Industry sources estimate the brand The brand was inspired by a leg hour, as did Ben Gordon of the Chicago Bulls and has so far rung up retail sales of $500,000 cream that Drakotos’ uncle, an OB/GYN Penn Badgley of “Gossip Girl,” who wore Gucci.

at Barneys. in Athens, originally developed for preg- NER Badgley said he was heading to Los Angeles to Drakotos said during a recent inter- nant patients in the late Sixties. Then, 13 H rehearse a new project, but grew uncomfortable view he plans to launch three new prod- years ago, Drakotos, an attorney by trade, before declining to elaborate. — Jean Scheidnes EVE EIC ucts in the summer and fall of this year; decided to create a version of that cream T a five- item bath line, also in fall, and a to kick off development of Sponge. CURRIE TO KENNETH: Kenneth Cole Productions Inc. baby care line in spring of next year. Today’s iteration of the cream, called is continuing to strengthen its executive team as International expansion plans center Anti-Fatigue Leg Cream, $110 for 3.4 oz., S photo by the brand positions itself for growth. The company around talks to launch the brand in the is infused with extracts of calendula, named Scott Currie to the newly created role of vice president of global communications, U.K., France, Greece, Russia, Poland, sage and mastic, a sap from trees found effective June 30. At KCP, Curry will oversee the global communications and public Hong Kong, Australia, the Middle East on the Greek island of Chios. relations strategies from development to implementation at the corporate, brand and and Africa. Drakotos said he is currently Prices in the line range from $45 fashion publicity levels. He also will be in charge of special events and p.r. efforts for in negotiations with specialty stores to in- each for lavender, jasmine and sweet the firm’s philanthropic endeavors, including The Awearness Fund, which Cole created troduce the line in global markets. basil aromatherapy mists to $110 for the in 2007. Most recently, Currie was vice president of global communications at Elie Industry sources project the prod- leg cream and for the 3.4-oz. Comfort + Tahari. He joined Tahari in February 2008 from the Susan Magrino Agency, where he uct launches and distribution expansion Elasticity Cream. was executive president. “He brings a tremendous background as an innovative and could push global retail sales of Sponge In July, Drakotos plans to add a cleans- strategic leader,” Kenneth Cole said. Skincare to $5 million annually by the end er to the assortment and, in September, “It is such a respected brand with an incredible heritage and a significant global of 2010. he plans to launch an eye cream and an footprint,” Currie noted. Aside from Bar­neys, the line can now eye gel. While details of a Sponge bath Currie will work closely with Cole and reports to senior vice president and chief marketing be found at the Plaza in New York, at line have yet to be finalized, the baby line officer Kristen Dykstra. Currie’s appointment is one in a series of strategic hires to strengthen Dermstore.com and at spongeskincare. is to include honey and chamomile-based the company. A year after bringing in Jill Granoff as chief executive officer of KCP, the com. products like a cream, oil, shampoo and company named Ingo Wilts as creative director last month, and over the past year, brought “The idea is to grow slowly,” said soothing gel. in president of wholesale Chris Nakatani; senior vice president of human resources Danesha Drakotos, “so people learn about the qual- — Matthew W. Evans Dixon Smith and Dykstra. — Marc Karimzadeh WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 11 WWD.COM

House Panel: Cargo Scan Plan Unworkable A rendering of the planned Generra store. By Kristi Ellis with the government. they argued that the technology was not available and that even the WASHINGTON — the house Appropriations slightest delay in clearing customs in a foreign committee, which approved $42.6 billion in or u.s. port could interrupt the supply chain funding for the department of homeland and cripple global commerce. security on friday, acknowledged that a con- “even in the major ports participating in the gressional deadline for implementing 100 per- test program, there were serious problems,” said cent scanning of all u.s.-bound cargo ships is Julia hughes, senior vice president of interna- not feasible. tional trade of the u.s. Association of importers it was the first public admission that the cargo of textiles & Apparel. “so to have the u.s. in- scanning mandate, which sisting on rolling it out to the democrats supported and whole world was unrealistic.” pushed through congress in Jonathan gold, vice presi- 2007, will not be met. many It has become dent of supply chain and republicans backed the ex- “ customs policy at the national isting screening process. increasingly clear retail federation, said law- “it has become increas- makers “are finally listening ingly clear that, at least for that…a 100 percent to the [customs] agency. from now, a 100 percent scanning day one, we’ve had concerns goal is not feasible, and even scanning goal is not about whether or not 100 per- if it were, would come at an cent scanning could be done, unacceptably high cost mon- feasible. and this is the first time pub- etarily and in the displace- — House” Appropriations licly we’ve seen an acknowl- ment of other efforts,” the edgement from congress that committee said in a report. Committee report there are issues.” in the 2007 legislation, the appropriations com- the democrat-controlled congress set a dead- mittee also recommended maintaining the line for 700 foreign ports to come online with funding level of $4.75 million for u.s. customs Generra Heads to Manhattan equipment and man power to scan all u.s.- & Border protection’s textile and Apparel By Vicki M. Young bound cargo containers for radiation and nucle- policies and programs office, which oversees ar weapons by 2012. the mandate came under textile transshipment and enforcement and Although some AppArel firms lAunch stores stAteside fire from the business community, including re- counterfeit seizures. the panel approved a cut before expanding overseas, public clothing’s generra brand will open tailers and apparel importers, many of which of $26.3 million in customs’ overall budget to its first freestanding retail space in manhattan’s meatpacking district participate in supply chain security programs $7.57 billion, compared with fiscal year 2009. this fall after establishing a presence in Japan. dan shamdasani, chief executive officer of public clothing, said the 1,800-square-foot store at 823 Washington street will have 1,200 square feet for selling and the rest for storage. thomas Juul-hansen, who NXP Sues Tiffany Over Purchase Price designed generra’s manhattan showroom, is designing the interior. public also owns the french cuff and private label brands. By Matthew Lynch on friday, Kpmg’s connolly reaffirmed his generra, a contemporary women’s and men’s sportswear brand, has company’s belief in the february letter and five freestanding units and three shop-in-shops in Japan, which have the firm thAt Bought the little said neither side raised objections to it when operated under license since 2007. switzerland chain from tiffany & co. has taken Botica first wrote it. shamdasani, who has held talks with potential partners to expand the jeweler to court, alleging it overcharged on “it is only now, months after dhirim lost the in the middle east and in china, india and singapore, said he is also the deal and accusing a third-party arbitrator arbitration, that these baseless allegations are looking to grow generra’s freestanding store count in other u.s. cities, of having a conflict of interest. being made in an attempt to overturn the deci- but did not specify which ones. in addition, the brand is sold in 250 nXp corp. acquired the caribbean jewelry sion,” he added. high-end specialty store doors. business in 2007 through its oakland, mich.- in the lawsuit, which names only tiffany as unlike many other apparel firms that seek outside investors for based assignee dhirim inc. for a target price of a defendant, dhirim alleged that Kpmg had a their expansion, shamdasani said the company will be “funding the $54.7 million, according to a lawsuit filed June bias and asked the court to vacate the award expansion internally.” 11 in u.s. district court in manhattan. because it was “procured through corruption generra hasn’t filled the post of creative director, vacated by pina After the close of the sale, court papers or fraud.” dhirim further accused tiffany of ferlisi in december 2007. instead, it is opting to work with obedient show tiffany and dhirim disagreed over bal- demanding $5 million, despite the arbitrator’s sons founder and designer swaim hutson as brand collaborator for ance sheet adjustments affecting the final price. $3.6 million award, and asked that it pay the the spring 2010 season. obedient sons closed last year. the parties took the matter to arbitration, with lower amount should the court not vacate. “his cool, downtown fashion philosophy is a sensibility that aligns financial services giant Kpmg llp serving as According to its Web site, little switzerland with our brand,” shamdasani said. mediator. on April 27, the firm decided in favor sells luxury goods through a network of 12 generra also hired michael Kinnaman as its new vice president of of tiffany and found dhirim owed $3.6 million stores in the caribbean. tiffany had acquired sales and merchandising. Kinnaman, who began June 1, was director on the deal. the chain in 2002. of sales and merchandising at catherine malandrino. in the suit, dhirim alleged that, while the case was pending with arbitrator luke Botica in Kpmg’s chicago office, richard siebert, an employee in Kpmg’s We Help Companies Manage detroit office, attempted sepa- rately to win dhirim’s tax and accounting business. Their Liquidity Better the day after the suit was filed, Kpmg spokesman tim Financing new opportunities often requires liquidity beyond the fixed formulas connolly said the company was troubled and surprised by and capital ratios that traditional lenders rely upon. For over 70 years, mid-size what it called false allegations. and large businesses have relied on Rosenthal & Rosenthal to solve cash flow tiffany did not respond to re- issues and provide timely financing for growth. We provide solutions for the quests for comment. complex financial needs of our clients. Decisions are made promptly, without According to the suit, bureaucracy, and clients have access to key decision makers. dhirim representatives met with siebert earlier this year but told him it was inappropri- Domestic & International Factoring—Letters of Credit ate to hire the firm to conduct Working Capital Loans—Term Loans—Collateral Management Services its audit because of the pend- ing decision. in a feb. 9 letter included as evidence, Botica wrote to both tiffany and dhirim and implied dhirim had initiated the contact and that it did not affect his objectivity. But dhirim alleged Botica mischaracterized the meet- ing in the letter and failed to disclose another meeting at dhirim’s offices in march NEW YORK LOS ANGELES SHANGHAI 2008. At that meeting, dhirim said, both Botica and siebert For a confidential consultation, please contact Michael Stanley: discussed business opportuni- 212 356-1497 or [email protected] ties while dhirim finalized ar- rangements to engage Kpmg ROSENTHALINC.COM as an arbitrator. 12 WWD, monDay, june 15, 2009

Financial

Among broadline retailers, Sears and Macy’s made the biggest cuts in selling, general and administrative expenses in the first quarter.

Cost Cuts Continue for Thrifty Retailers Continued from page one ter earnings after it reduced advertising spending Target Corp. cut a collective $668 million in sell- by $107 million and payroll and benefit expenses ing, general and administrative expenses in the by $84 million. first quarter, pushing their SG&A expense down Cuts are even being made in the off-price chan- 6.3 percent from a year earlier. That means fewer nel, despite the competitive advantage that comes dollars supporting brands and driving foot traffic, from having a value orientation during the down- A factor that fits the axing of information technology projects and turn. Earlier this year Stein Mart Inc. laid off 178 cramped cross-country plane rides for executives assistant managers, while the rest of its manage- who can’t afford to be seen in first or business rial staff took a 5 percent pay cut and store associ- class as they lay off workers. ates’ hours were cut by 17 percent. Like other re- “From travel to supplies to benefits to market- tailers, the company stopped paying shareholders ing to information technology, we’re leaving no a dividend, eliminated its stock buyback plan and stone unturned,” said Stephen I. Sadove, chair- halted contributions to employees’ 401(k) retire- man and chief executive officer of Saks, which re- ment plans. duced first-quarter expenses by $44 million, more All of this feeds into a vicious economic cycle, than it planned to cut for the whole year. “How we where the slowdown in consumer spending have always done it is irrelevant. We’re approach- prompts businesses to cut workers, increasing the ing every area of the business asking how should ranks of the unemployed and further weakening we do it going forward.” spending. Department stores alone eliminated a Saks rival Neiman Marcus last week revealed total of 10,800 jobs in February, March and April, plans to reduce expenses by $125 million a year. according to government statistics that adjust for “Our team has done an excellent job of decreas- seasonal variations in workforce. Last month, the ing their spend,” said Burt Tansky, president and department store channel actually added 4,500 po- chief executive officer of Neiman Marcus. “We are sitions, although specialty stores cut 3,300 jobs. undergoing a comprehensive process that we be- But to every cost-cutting trend, there are ex- lieve has been thoughtful and significant.” ceptions. About 60 percent of planned expense reduc- Wal-Mart and, to a lesser extent, Kohl’s tions already have been realized. Neiman’s cut Corp., actually spent more in the first quarter, Document4 7/11/03$38 million5:59 PM from Page selling, 1 general and administra- investing in their businesses in hopes of grab- tive expenses in the most recent quarter versus its bing market share while most of the competi- 2008 counterpart. tion is biding its time and many are slimming Sears, which has 3,900 doors under its name- down their store portfolios. sake and Kmart brands and has been criticized in Wal-Mart upped its operating, selling, general At Wells Fargo Trade Capital, we benefit from the the last few years for not investing enough in its and administrative expenses by $386 million in strength and stability of our parent company, which stores, is the industry’s most aggressive cost cut- the first quarter. That spending increase is almost means you benefit from a full line of solutions from ter. The firm surprised Wall Street with first-quar- exactly what Macy’s and Sears, the two biggest cost cutters, stripped away. a company you can trust. “This is still Wal-Mart’s game,” said Dean Hillier, consultant and • Factoring and Receivables Management Services a partner at A . T. Kearney. “They are definitely taking advantage of • Import & Export Financing the circumstances. The market is • Letters of Credit certainly heading their way and it seems to be sticking somewhat. • Supply Chain Financing The others are in a tougher spot • Accounts Receivable and Inventory Financing and therefore are having to do what they need to do to eke out their profitability.” Retailers have tried to hide their newfound austerity from consumers by working on in- ventory controls and cutting For a quick response and corporate staff while attempt- tailor-made solutions, call us today! ing to maintain the shopping experience. But chains are now tiptoeing up to cost cuts and other changes that could change the character of the in- Wells Fargo Trade Capital dustry. Both Neiman’s and Saks, �-���-���-���� for instance, said their custom- ers want to spend less while wellsfargo.com/tradecapital not switching to other brands, and the retailers are trying to accommodate them by urging brands to develop lower entry- level price points. “If Saks were to go to a lower price-point item on the same brand, would that reduce the brand impact for Saks as a © ���� Wells Fargo Trade Capital. All rights reserved. company?” wondered Hillier. “Retailers are pushed into a THE NEW, PUSHIER CONSUMER A woman being offered several different dresses, but turning her nose up to all of them

THE PRICE-VALUE GAME A scale with a dollar sign or money bag on one side and a handbag on the other

THE NEW SOCIETY Something for social issues, maybe a globe

THE NEW AUSTERITY A penny in a vice or clamp or being crushed under a store the horizon. THE NUTS AND BOLTS Actual nuts and bolts or a distribution center with trucks going in one side and packages coming out the other through binoculars over THE FUTURE Someone looking WWD, monDay, june 15, 2009 13 WWD.COM Financial $ $ position now, quite frankly, where they have to take new directions on both sides of the supply/retail divide. risks with their business. They’ve got to start placing “Hopefully it means that they’re open to a much more col- strategic bets. This is a new reality that retailers are Change in First- laborative relationship,” McTague said. “It’s a zero-sum game. dealing with.” All of us are trying to move profit dollars. It’s forcing everyone The next cost-saving step for retailers would entail to be a lot more creative.” bigger, deeper cuts and strategic moves, such as the Quarter expenses For now, though, major changes appear to be mostly in the shuttering of whole divisions, he said. That’s already (In millions of dollars) future. The more immediate question is whether retailers are occurred for a number of specialty stores, and last cutting wisely. And there’s plenty of room for error. month Abercrombie & Fitch Co. indicated it might join “Some retailers have cut too far because they’ve cut from the them, saying it was undertaking a strategic review of its pulling BaCk top down,” said Antony Karabus, ceo of Karabus Management, fledgling Ruehl unit. noting a 10 or 15 percent across-the-board cut will A survey by Credit Suisse showed cash capital spend- Sears ...... 242 trim some areas too much and others not enough. ing at 80 retailers fell 14.4 percent last year, the first de- Spending varies across the industry, meaning cline since 2002. Spending by specialty apparel retailers Macy’s ...... 147 each company will have to cut in its own way. dropped 24.2 percent to $3.71 billion and is slated to fall According to the Karabus SG&A Retail another 34.8 percent this year. Mall anchors cut expen- Benchmark study, which looked at spend- ditures by 22.4 percent to $4.26 billion in 2008 and plan Dillard’s ...... 67 ing across 68 chains for the fiscal year ended to slash another 37.4 percent this year. January 2008, merchandising expenses Despite the decline in spending, apparel specialty J.C. Penney ...... 62 range from 0.8 percent to more than 3 per- stores are expected to increase their gross selling cent of sales. Supply chain costs range space by 1.9 percent this year to 784.2 million square Saks ...... 44 anywhere from 1.2 percent to 3.5 percent feet, while mall anchors add 1.2 percent for 506 million of sales. square feet — even as analysts at Credit Suisse say both Nordstrom ...... 46 As retailers lay off workers, many are sectors already have too much selling space. concentrating their regional field staffs; “Capacity is not coming out of the soft-lines space Neiman Marcus ...... 38 for instance, giving district managers fast enough,” Credit Suisse said of the apparel spe- more stores to oversee or eliminating cialty stores. “We believe many retailers in this group Target ...... 22 a layer of management altogether, are now faced with structural issues, primarily that said Karabus. they have too many stores, and would expect a de- total ...... 668 For department stores the dan- crease in square footage in 2010 as retailers come to ger is an increasingly national RU this realization.” WE T ST stance when customers want OD G N Chains wanting to save money need not look at just I local flavor and attention —

their own operations. They can also take new approach- ramping up which is what Macy’s Inc. es with their suppliers. is trying to prevent with Kohl’s ...... 38 2009 The savings so far, as large as they’ve been, are just LIBERTY its My Macy’s program. the tip of the iceberg, said David McTague, executive “When you cut expens- vice president of partnered brands at Liz Claiborne Inc. Wal-Mart ...... 386 es as a department store, “They haven’t even started yet; it should be in the you’ve still got to make billions of dollars,” McTague said at the company’s an- total ...... 424 sure that you’re staying rel- nual meeting. SOURCE: COmpany REpORtS. yEaR-OvER-yEaR ChangE In SEllIng, evant to your local consumer,” Together, he said, retailers and vendors can move gEnERal and admInIStRatIvE ExpEnSES. Wal-maRt InClUdES Karabus said. “What you’re see- product more efficiently from factory to selling floor OpERatIng ExpEnSES and dIllaRd’S InClUdES advERtISIng ExpEnSES. ing with a number of chains is and better manage inventories. nEIman maRCUS fIgURES aRE fOR ItS thIRd qUaRtER, EndEd may 2. that they’re cutting significantly to The financial stress of the moment could help set become more national.”

The test of time.

At Milberg Factors, we measure time differently than many do today. We think in terms of years, decades and generations — not days, weeks, or months. Since 1936, we’ve taken the long-range view. In periods of ups and downs, we’ve remained focused on our core mission: to meet the changing fi nancial needs of our clients.

Financial institutions that have stood the test of time have done so because of vision, preparedness and a commitment to excellence. When you need a partner you can count on, give us a call.

Milberg Factors, Inc. A Trusted Financial Resource

www.milbergfactors.com

Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662

©2009 Milberg Factors, Inc. 14 WWD, monday, june 15, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Claire’s Cuts Loss, Sales Soft Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Alexandra Steigrad High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Aggressive cost-cutting helped Claire’s 71.24 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 15.7 15475843 27.58 0.27 44.20 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 13.0 25742311 29.16 0.11 Stores Inc. narrow its first-quarter net loss, but the 26.14 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 16.6 2233363 14.17 -0.76 8.00 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 20694 4.25 -3.00 mall-based jewelry and accessories retailer said sales 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) 45.8 1845614 0.60 0.00 1.67 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 10.3 1248703 0.85 0.26 trends softened in the second quarter. 37.96 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 14.4 10520891 35.09 -1.32 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 9734229 11.20 0.54 For the three months ended May 2, the firm said its loss 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.7 2120105 24.41 0.33 42.50 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 10.7 4378670 33.86 -5.86 fell to just over $29 million from $35.6 million in the year- 10.25 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 77.2 996005 3.97 -0.06 18.50 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 298218 7.18 -0.17 ago period. Sales decreased 10.4 percent to $293.1 million 18.00 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 18.6 18825256 14.56 -0.29 47.80 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) 19.8 34933786 11.35 -1.05 from slightly more than $327 million a year earlier. Comparable-store sales fell 2.9 percent in North 27.55 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 10458696 7.20 -0.09 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 16.2 19188167 46.59 0.62 America and dipped 0.9 percent in Europe. The com- 425.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 44.5 1600581 382.25 5.00 20.76 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) 24.8 637297 8.86 -0.87 pany attributed the disparity to a more promotional 45.34 14.40 Avon (AVP) 19.7 14749206 26.61 -0.11 17.63 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 14.7 17853 10.31 0.51 North American environment and the superior perfor- 11.26 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 23.0 2356830 7.36 -0.37 22.16 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 33.2 24509510 12.81 -0.11 mance of some licensed products in Europe. 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 14.7 2308547 33.49 -0.48 20.14 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 6582122 4.63 -0.23 Selling, general and administrative expenses 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.4 1133791 6.75 -0.16 3.74 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 19.1 2896056 2.15 0.36 shrank 17.4 percent to $108.5 million from $131.3 mil- 3.30 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 9350 0.52 -0.13 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 16.3 4064124 53.93 -1.28 lion in 2008, helping to lift adjusted earnings before 44.29 27.26 BJs (BJ) 13.4 6234743 32.80 -1.41 30.12 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 24.2 10339079 14.23 0.26 interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization 5.8 per- 0.29 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 57885 0.06 -0.03 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 18.7 3107267 14.80 -0.15 cent to $36.3 million. 4.19 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 10732 1.40 0.08 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 13.9 4575290 59.44 0.44 “The retail landscape remains volatile and was fur- ther complicated by the calendar shift of Easter, which 6.90 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 267023 4.64 -0.20 70.98 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 14.5 11784593 19.62 -1.09 is a larger percentage of our business, relative to other 18.44 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 2307739 7.85 -1.01 22.96 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 47345063 12.53 -0.28 retailers,” chief executive officer Gene Kahn said on 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 13.0 5651759 31.90 -1.43 16.64 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 13.2 724624 13.69 0.21 the company earnings call Friday. “However, we feel we 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 42.4 24221161 4.16 0.27 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 9.0 45200225 290.50 4.50 have made progress in the form of an improved product 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 9966190 386.25 -13.00 26.43 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 18.5 7903774 19.77 1.80 assortment for each of our target customer groups.” 15.75 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 11.1 2664106 12.01 -1.20 26.17 4.65 Movado (MOV) 123.9 2188847 11.23 2.96 Kahn noted sales have continued to decline in the 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) - 413599 3.76 -0.57 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 11.4 6047923 17.21 -0.83 high-single digits in the second quarter. 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 16.2 14974829 29.50 -2.88 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2428274 3.74 0.15 As of May 2, cash and cash equivalents were $206.7 25.36 11.94 Carter (CRI) 17.7 2803706 24.44 -0.04 0.26 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 1041364 0.17 0.01 million. The Pembroke Pines, Fla.-based firm said it 4.95 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 1745085 2.37 -0.13 69.72 38.24 Nike (NKE) 17.1 18675831 56.61 -1.68 had drawn down its revolving credit facility during the 21.05 11.30 Cato (CTR) 15.7 994025 18.20 -2.27 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 68000 0.09 0.02 2008 third quarter because Lehman Brothers, a mem- ber of the facility’s syndicate, filed for bankruptcy. 26.38 1.92 CBL (CBL) 75.1 38559233 6.26 -1.10 37.00 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 12.4 18769024 20.77 -0.32 The company said it has yet to find a replacement for 8.75 2.05 CCA (CAW) 17.2 35603 3.04 0.07 18.15 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 15.2 108643 17.22 1.29 Lehman and is assessing whether to pay all or part of 1.33 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 59463 0.51 0.01 29.02 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 1402166 12.20 0.70 the outstanding balance on the facility. 18.92 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) - 1194165 12.07 0.66 10.29 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 5702306 3.57 -0.62 Claire’s, which said it is operating the business 6.35 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 2405807 3.80 -0.31 7.15 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 402958 2.04 0.20 with the expectation there will be no improvement in 82.00 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 17.8 827514 64.51 -1.55 27.00 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 2824032 5.77 -0.42 the economy in 2009, plans to open 17 stores this year. 26.25 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 12.4 104907 20.07 -0.41 27.70 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 462497 9.62 0.60 The company owns and operates 2,970 stores in North 10.50 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 25364042 10.35 0.37 45.77 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 23.2 5630884 31.23 -0.07 America and Europe. Another 411 operate through 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 10.4 4651623 30.18 -0.48 1.66 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 48862 0.35 0.00 franchise or joint venture arrangements. 12.00 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 744376 5.36 -0.01 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 13.6 7614387 53.45 -2.94 Apollo Management LP acquired Claire’s in 2007. Although no longer publicly traded, it reports finan- 33.73 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 11.3 6783971 22.94 0.11 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 14.5 1929026 61.85 0.52 cial results because it holds public debt. 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 15.9 2293139 23.63 -0.03 25.15 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 11.2 668508 17.51 -0.52 34.70 11.41 Coach (COH) 12.9 28039345 26.12 -0.80 10.34 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 24039617 2.37 -1.12 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 5060311 5.90 0.90 8.84 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 8.6 42529 6.42 0.15 Retail Stocks Decline in Week 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.6 16228018 71.38 0.48 24.10 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 12.9 561788 10.30 -1.21 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) - 7798758 13.85 -0.75 70.95 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 22.8 6754742 36.61 -0.60 Retail stocks rose 0.8 percent on Friday, 49.49 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 13.7 775288 32.36 -0.73 5.28 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 3.1 664770 3.23 0.01 not quite enough to put them into positive territory 74.89 38.17 Costco (COST) 17.0 24401575 47.03 -0.61 14.85 2.30 Revlon (REV) 3.0 1266196 5.42 0.33 for the week. 10.55 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 24419665 3.95 0.65 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 11.7 9647610 23.66 -0.48 The S&P Retail Index ended the session at 332.07, 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 2000 0.06 0.00 41.56 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 15.8 9933638 39.43 0.07 off 0.6 percent from its June 5 endpoint, but still 18.9 144.93 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 12.6 3410256 71.41 7.76 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 32639223 0.50 0.02 percent ahead of the 279.26 mark at which it ended 2008. Concerns about the rising cost of gasoline and 3.50 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 5.0 278199 2.69 0.09 12.88 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 19581788 4.34 0.59 the still sluggish pace of retail sales in other catego- 9.00 2.40 Delta Apparel (DLA) 9.6 11222 7.46 -0.19 108.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 65.9 6790260 68.93 -0.54 ries prevented store equities from building momen- 17.43 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 90219 17.93 4.08 106.43 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 27.0 29163257 54.13 0.62 tum last week after gains on Monday and Tuesday. 41.55 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 15865317 5.56 -0.04 24.00 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 14.4 1576188 9.58 -0.16 The major indices all finished last week with gains, 15.37 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 4102348 10.04 0.50 2.39 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 10150 0.36 0.01 including a 0.4 percent advance for the Dow Jones 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 14.7 3844850 14.88 -1.70 8.08 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 1269809 7.71 0.05 Industrial Average and a 0.7 percent improvement 16.32 6.66 DSW (DSW) 19.5 1414980 10.32 -1.21 30.40 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.3 1042679 27.72 -2.09 for the S&P 500. The Dow’s advance allowed it close 18.71 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 47663 17.89 2.77 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 561491 36.95 -0.75 above its 2008 finish for the first time this year. 8.72 0.21 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 30359851 0.23 -0.26 17.86 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 135611 6.31 -0.80 — Arnold J. Karr 21.79 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 748068 7.91 0.78 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 7147631 5.01 0.00 54.75 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 19.0 5701910 33.93 0.21 6.99 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 15702 2.48 0.11 WEEKLY 35.00 18.43 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.8 12750105 29.49 -1.37 3.13 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 9.4 2600 2.30 0.03 12.43 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) 100.1 2602765 7.16 -0.66 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 21.8 2339108 32.81 -0.48 CHANGE WWD 33.36 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 12.8 3064362 23.12 -0.83 59.55 25.00 Target (TGT) 14.1 38424322 40.38 -0.11 ENDING 1.78 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 320296 0.59 -0.12 0.81 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 206429 0.79 0.02 ( june 12 ) INDEX 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 31.3 1426607 12.81 -1.05 92.35 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 7728433 27.40 -0.27 % 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 21770 59.50 0.00 5.00 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 24155 3.90 0.09 20.80 9.41 Gap (GPS) 12.3 37105875 16.37 -0.26 47.93 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 19.4 14379353 27.29 -2.47 Gainers Change Composite 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 3.5 1699624 21.98 -3.49 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 21.2 1708757 14.43 -0.48 Joe’s Jeans 44.09 778.11 23.00 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 792535 11.35 0.56 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 14.5 22007883 30.73 0.21 Movado 35.79 28.94 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 17.3 5931044 17.12 1.03 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 14.8 252929 40.43 -0.85 Destination Maternity 29.46 13.19 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1287960 2.99 -0.53 31.82 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 11.9 2667872 21.93 -1.72 LJ Intl. 20.11 38.15 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 363220 24.16 0.48 20.53 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 1703861 5.02 -0.45 43.13 10.26 Guess (GES) 11.5 10836304 26.56 -2.04 43.52 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 30.4 2671091 24.13 -1.06 Crocs 19.70 44.87 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 10.9 4309009 35.66 -1.63 5.43 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 623407 1.38 -0.22 9.00 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 15500 2.90 0.05 30.99 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 4771597 24.35 0.07 Decliners Change 33.35 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 23.3 3867404 17.39 -0.69 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 19.2 27289709 21.58 0.32 Eddie Bauer -53.17 0.53 0.01 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 3812548 0.01 -0.02 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 11.9 6042615 58.40 -0.36 Jaclyn -41.38 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 20.7 11366486 373.00 11.50 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 20.7 1336670 13.96 0.64 Quiksilver -32.09 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 34.4 456362 95.02 1.03 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 14.5 89759571 49.84 -1.23 16.54 1.40 HSN (HSNI) - 2040470 11.79 0.02 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 24.3 6647285 34.10 -1.47 Birks & Mayors -20.00 -11.92 13.87 4.61 Hot Topic (HOTT) 14.3 7371547 7.14 -0.17 40.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 10.4 10668690 14.80 -1.22 Frederick’s of Hollywood -16.90 18.94 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 13130936 16.41 0.10 5.54 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 13.3 6558767 3.40 0.03 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 17.95 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 14.0 4102495 15.47 0.08 41.99 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 19.9 74250 24.88 -0.66 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 17.9 12961830 35.01 2.74 29.45 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 14.1 3706927 23.04 2.04 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch 17.08 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 13.1 407726 8.75 0.34 30.89 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 2622405 3.70 -0.35 Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 22.46 4.80 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 18.4 1122698 8.72 -0.68 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 38.00 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 29.9 7486215 25.70 -0.60 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 15, 2009 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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SALES REPS - IMPORTERS ARE YOU OWED MONEY? Established Businesses and Start ups Why do it yourself? Pattern, Sample & Production A New York attorney willing to work on a contingent Do only what you do best, and outsource the rest! fee basis with 33+ years of experience in sales • Sales Order Processing • Inventory costing and import tracking Over 25 years experience rep disputes, can represent you. Presently • Deduction Management • Bookkeeping and Financial Statements Designer Handbags, Leather Accessories, representing numerous multi-line showrooms. • EDI • Billing and Accounts Receivable • And more Fashion Belts and Small Leather Goods Free setup thru August 31! Jonathon D. Warner, Esq. Take advantage of our solid supply chain experience & reduce costs High Quality Standards & Fast Turnaround Time Warner & Scheuerman Call or email today: Leather, Exotic Skin, Fabric & Synthetic Material 1-800-258-8009 G&A SERVICES LLC DAVID HARARI, PRESIDENT • E: [email protected] • T: 212.575.1245 • E-mail: (732) 379-6700 / [email protected] • 306 W 38th St. #1202, New York, NY 10018 • [email protected] See our informative web site at: www.gaserv.com waitex provides Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions

• 28 years of experience in the garment industry • 3 million square feet of modern distribution facilities in NY, NJ, & LA • EDI, UCC128, ASN, TMS, scan/pack capability • Pick, pack & ship by piece or pre-packed carton • GOH/Flatpack storage by carton/unit/sq.ft NY - Barry: (212) 967-8100 • Air/Sea world-wide cargo forwarding LA - Alfred: (909) 476-8128 • Garment and label manufacturing Email: [email protected] • Hoffman Press / Steam tunnel www.waitex.com • 3000 world-wide service specialists WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE Accounts Receivable/Credit Assist $40 - 45K . Min 1-2 years exp in credit dealing DESIGN ASSISTANT w/factor disputes, returns, POD’s, etc. Need talented & dynamic recent grad LUXURY SALES DIRECTOR Middlesex County, NJ. with proficient computer skills in Branded Designer Jewelry Company [email protected] 973-564-9236 Photoshop & illustrator for ladies bet- ter sportswear company. Great work needs Sales Director for Majors. Chief Financial Officer (CFO) to atmosphere Medical and 401K plan Must have 5 years experience. $175K. Current exp in fashion or acces- Please e-mail resumes to: Great growth, great company. sory co. req. Exp in licensing, royalties, [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts dealing with factors. Supervise 1 con- MERCHANDISE MANAGER BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS troller plus 4 others. Strong manager Designer $100 - 125K. Min 5 years cur- Skilled Manager with knowledge Great ’New’ Office Space Avail needed. 100 mill vol private co. Midtown. rent exp in young men’s contemporary of Diamond and Bridal Jewelry. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 [email protected] 973-564-9236 sportswear, woven & knits, non-denim and denim. Interpret trends for Ross Top Salary dependant on experi- COSTUME JEWELRY DESIGNER Stores, Marmax, JC Penney, etc market. ence. Contact:212-704-7391 Nationally recognized fashion brand [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] seeking talented & experienced Costume Jewelry Designer for launch Designer $165-190K. Current exp in of diffusion costume jewelry line at designer market required. Must have European sensibility and hang with Production Sourcing Manager $100-120K mid-tier level. Min. 3 - 5 yrs exp. Current exp with an $80 mil vol min required, as well as knowledge of Prada, Balmain, Marni, Martin Margiela , etc. Tailored clothing, casual career. Refined kidswear co. required. Sourcing world- trend & costume jewelry markets. wide. Exp approvals for licensed Must be creative, organized, able to taste. To design for bridge market. [email protected] 973-564-9236 product. Large Midtown co. render to model maker specifications, [email protected] 973-564-9236 & able to design into price points. Factory Plant Manager Assist. $40- Experience with & understanding of 50K. Current exp in men’s or women’s PATTERNS, SAMPLES, JC Penney/Kohl’s level department shirts required. Must have supervised store product design & merchandising minimum 20 individuals. NJ location PRODUCTIONS absolutely required. Candidate must [email protected] 973-564-9236 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. possess leadership qualities and take Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ownership of projects, potentially take charge of multiple brands, and be able Customer Service/ Order Entry to work independently. Do NOT apply Contemporary Apparel/Denim Co. Patterns, Samples, without above criteria. 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Exec JEWELRY DESIGNER Candidate must have selling exp. (jrs. Prov. RI costume jewelry co. seeks crea- jeans-wear) & valid contact / relation- tive designer. Min 5 yrs jlry design ships w major large & specialty chains. exp,understanding of dvpmt process, This is a great opportunity for an expe- trends, accurates, materials, Photoshop. rienced pro who has talent, vision, & Be self starter and team player in fast knows how to make things happen. paced environ. Overseas factory, material Send Resume to: sourcing a plus. Email resume with [email protected] salary req. to: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE Accessory Co. specializing in bags, belts and shoes seeking motivated and energetic individual with strong rela- tionships in Specialty, Discount & Dept. chains. Duties include opening and maintaining accounts. Email: Ladies Accessories Buyer [email protected] Our buyer is responsible for achieving sales & profit objectives. 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