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Tel Aviv Jerusalem CITY & RESTAURANT GUIDE WALKING & CYCLING TOURS

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Tel Aviv Jerusalem CITY & RESTAURANT GUIDE WALKING & CYCLING TOURS DESTINATIONisrael iconic SIGHTS TOP 10 MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS Tel Aviv Jerusalem CITY & RESTAURANT GUIDE WALKING & CYCLING TOURS INSIDE: Activities • Attractions • Food • Drink • Travel Tips Welcome CONTENTS hether you’ve never set foot in the Land of Creation, or W it’s been a few years since your last visit, you’ll be 4 Top 10 attractions Key religious, cultural impressed at its vast diversity — and affordability. and historical sights There really has never been a better time to explore Israel, with new flights and attractions making it more accessible, 10 Affordable Israel coupled with its burgeoning hotel and foodie scene. Why exploring Israel doesn’t have to cost a fortune While Eilat is an attractive winter-sun hotspot, Tel Aviv is gaining a reputation among gourmet travelers. With a number 12 Tel Aviv How to see the city in 48 hours of Israeli chefs becoming celebrity figures, we look at some of the top restaurants in the cosmopolitan city (p13); and, as the 13 Top restaurants wines are also winning global awards and building an Five of the best in Tel Aviv international reputation, a winery visit is a must (p16). 14 Food With most visitors keen to tick off Israel’s top attractions Breakfast at an Israeli family’s home (p4), there are also lots of different ways to experience them. Why not try a leisurely walking tour of Jerusalem (p22), see a 15 Recipe larger section of the country by bike (p24), or experience the Fish falafel warm hospitality of an Israeli family by enjoying a typical 16 Israeli wine breakfast in their home (p14). Five of the best wineries Whichever way you choose to explore Israel, make sure 17 Craft beer you visit soon. Tasting tours 18 Street food Sam Lewis Israel’s favorite street snacks Editor 19 Recipe Hummus 20 Eilat Resort guide 22 Jerusalem Destination Israel is published by Printed in the UK. The entire contents are Walking tour of the city APL Media Limited. protected by copyright 2016 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior APL Media, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in 24 Cycling tours 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL compiling the contents of the magazine, but Explore the country on two wheels aplmedia.co.uk the publishers assume no responsibility in the Editorial T: 020 7253 9906 effect arising therefrom. The views expressed Email: [email protected] are not necessarily those of the publisher. 26 Great itineraries Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909 Readers are advised to seek professional Sample tours for first-timers Sales/Admin F: 020 7253 9907 advice before acting on any information which and repeat visitors Email: [email protected] is contained in the magazine. Editorial director: Maria Pieri Cover image: Hands by Shutterstock, Western 27 Travel essentials Editor: Sam Lewis Wall by instagram.com/alexi_pix and Useful facts and travel advice Deputy editor: Josephine Price illustration by Elyran Malka (elyran.com). Sub editor: Chris Horton Group art editor: Chris Hudson Lead designer: Philip Lay Project manager: Natalie Jackson Production manager: Daniel Gregory Production controller: Joaquim Pereira Chief executive: Anthony Leyens IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK IMAGE: Managing director: Matthew Jackson israel.travel Destination Israel 3 Top 10 2 TOP 10 NAZARETH & THE GALILEE When visiting Nazareth and a building as famous as the Basilica of the UNMISSABLE Annunciation — built on the site where Mary is said to have been told she’d give birth to Jesus — you prepare for disappointment. You expect there to be a hubbub — surely too many people, too little solemnity and no sense of those ancient times. But this pilgrimage site is a marvel in several ways. The exterior is graceful and elegant, and within lies a functioning church, built on top of older Byzantine and Crusader basilicas. People pray and quietly study the faith- themed artworks. Beneath this is the From left: Grotto of the Annunciation, a dimly lit Western Wall, and atmospheric sanctuary where it’s For those who want to see the highlights of the Holy Land, Chris Moss Jerusalem; said the angel Gabriel spoke to Mary. Israel Basilica of the A short drive away, The Sea of Galilee suggests Israel’s most inspiring historical and religious sites Annunciation, — the lowest freshwater lake on earth Nazareth; — is surrounded by eucalyptus, oak Tel Aviv trees, and olive groves, dotted with promenade wood cabins for rent. Mornings are beautiful and can be misty as well as mystical; after nightfall, stars sparkle from out of the lake’s inky darkness. 1 3 OLD CITY, JERUSALEM TEL AVIV Part of the joy of exploring With its sultry Mediterranean climate, the promenade along the beach another Jerusalem’s Old City is wandering stunning coastline, buzzing nightlife, popular draw. Cosmopolitan Rothschild down quiet alleys, discovering hidden and top-notch gastronomy, Israel’s Boulevard, lined by cafes and bars is a shops, and having a pomegranate second-largest city is the ultimate for major axis during the day and is close juice while watching the world go those seeking some rest and recreation. to some of the best art galleries and by in this historical but vibrant The UNESCO-listed, Bauhaus-era indie boutiques. After dark, nearby destination. But, among the sites ‘White City’ is an architectural gem, Neve Tzedek is a great place to go wine you should make sure to tick off ideal for a morning walk or bike bar-hopping or craft-beer tasting, or on a first foray are the Cardo, the ride — the latter is taking off in this to explore the latest in contemporary renovated section of the Roman and compact, largely flat metropolis, with Israeli cuisine. Byzantine Jerusalem’s old market street, now filled with stylish shops, and the Hurva synagogue, a key holy site for four centuries that has been rebuilt numerous times. Be sure to wander along the iconic Via Dolorosa — or ‘Sorrowful Way’ — following the last journey of Jesus and visit the Western Wall, one of the most photographed sites in Israel, then head for the bustling Souq Khan es-Zeit — it’s the perfect place to get a tasty bite at one of the stalls. IMAGES: GETTY; IMAGES AWL 4 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 5 Top 10 Top 10 4 7 JAFFA CAESAREA Jaffa, or Yafo, is one of the oldest Caesarea was one of the great ports ports on the Mediterranean, serving of antiquity, and archaeologists have pilgrims bound for Jerusalem. These found evidence of warehouses built days, the port proper is a cultural in King Herod’s day that once housed complex with a boardwalk and wine, olive oil, fruit syrups, metalwork, warehouses with shops, bars and and even Chinese porcelain. At the restaurants and the not-for-profit time, the vast city was home to palaces, Nalaga’at Center, home to a deaf-blind temples, a theater, a marketplace, a theater company, a cafe with deaf hippodrome, and advanced water and waiters and a ‘blackout’ restaurant sewage systems. Since the 14th century, with blind waiters. Built in 1891, much of this ancient city has been the Old Railway Station is another allowed to slip beneath the sand dunes, key landmark and the first railway but recent archaeological excavations terminus in the Middle East. But have unearthed a Roman site, including Jaffa’s real magic lies hidden away — at the bottom of the harbor — over down its narrow alleyways and in 1,300 column fragments (made of its tranquil courtyards. Around 50 marble imported from Italy and pink contemporary galleries, studios and granite from Aswan). Away from the design shops can be found here, as treasures is some great alfresco dining well as a famed flea market. Dining is and, north east of the ancient city, also excellent, with plenty of alfresco in modern Caesarea, one of Israel’s options. From here you can look back two golf courses. on high-rise, contemporary Tel Aviv, which grew around Jaffa in the early 20th century. instagram.com/camilaaa3 5 6 DID SAFED MARKETS Also known as Tzfat, this is the home You can’t be expected to go market- YOU KNOW? of the Jewish mystical tradition known rummaging on an empty stomach. as Kabbalah. When Palestine fell to So start your pilgrimage to Israel’s the Romans in AD70, the conquering gastronomic bazaars at Tel Aviv’s Built in 1891, leaders issued a decree ordering the Carmel Market, the city’s largest the Old Railway death of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, a fruit and vegetable market. As well prominent opponent and community as groceries, there are stalls selling Station in Jaffa leader. The rabbi fled with his son to a delicious borekas (filled salty pastries was the first cave near the northern town of Peki’in originating from Turkey), as well as where he deciphered — allegedly smart eateries offering everything railway terminus aided by divine inspiration — the from sushi to fusion cuisine. Next in the Middle East secrets hidden in the Torah. When door is the Nahalat Binyamin street the decree was lifted, he traveled market, bustling with musicians and widely, disseminating these truths. For circus acts and great for picking up more than a millennium, the study of high-quality original art and craft Kabbalah was limited to a few select pieces, for gifts or souvenirs: standout scholars of each generation. Tzafat items include glasswork, decorated is believed to have a special place in gourds and paintings. In Jerusalem, the Kabbalah because of its proximity Mahane Yehuda market, known locally to the area where Rabbi Shimon had as the Shuk, is a people-watching taught, as well as to his grave on Mount paradise; enjoy the bargaining and Meron.
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