DESTINATIONisrael iconic SIGHTS TOP 10 MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS

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INSIDE: Activities • Attractions • Food • Drink • Travel Tips Welcome CONTENTS

hether you’ve never set foot in the Land of Creation, or W it’s been a few years since your last visit, you’ll be 4 Top 10 attractions Key religious, cultural impressed at its vast diversity — and affordability. and historical sights There really has never been a better time to explore , with new flights and attractions making it more accessible, 10 Affordable Israel coupled with its burgeoning hotel and foodie scene. Why exploring Israel doesn’t have to cost a fortune While Eilat is an attractive winter-sun hotspot, Tel Aviv is gaining a reputation among gourmet travelers. With a number 12 Tel Aviv How to see the city in 48 hours of Israeli chefs becoming celebrity figures, we look at some of the top restaurants in the cosmopolitan city (p13); and, as the 13 Top restaurants wines are also winning global awards and building an Five of the best in Tel Aviv international reputation, a winery visit is a must (p16). 14 Food With most visitors keen to tick off Israel’s top attractions Breakfast at an Israeli family’s home (p4), there are also lots of different ways to experience them. Why not try a leisurely walking tour of Jerusalem (p22), see a 15 Recipe larger section of the country by bike (p24), or experience the Fish falafel warm hospitality of an Israeli family by enjoying a typical 16 Israeli wine breakfast in their home (p14). Five of the best wineries

Whichever way you choose to explore Israel, make sure 17 Craft beer you visit soon. Tasting tours

18 Street food Sam Lewis Israel’s favorite street snacks Editor 19 Recipe

20 Eilat Resort guide

22 Jerusalem Destination Israel is published by Printed in the UK. The entire contents are Walking tour of the city APL Media Limited. protected by copyright 2016 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior APL Media, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in 24 Cycling tours 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL compiling the contents of the magazine, but Explore the country on two wheels aplmedia.co.uk the publishers assume no responsibility in the Editorial T: 020 7253 9906 effect arising therefrom. The views expressed Email: [email protected] are not necessarily those of the publisher. 26 Great itineraries Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909 Readers are advised to seek professional Sample tours for first-timers Sales/Admin F: 020 7253 9907 advice before acting on any information which and repeat visitors Email: [email protected] is contained in the magazine.

Editorial director: Maria Pieri Cover image: Hands by Shutterstock, Western 27 Travel essentials Editor: Sam Lewis Wall by instagram.com/alexi_pix and Useful facts and travel advice Deputy editor: Josephine Price illustration by Elyran Malka (elyran.com). Sub editor: Chris Horton Group art editor: Chris Hudson Lead designer: Philip Lay Project manager: Natalie Jackson Production manager: Daniel Gregory Production controller: Joaquim Pereira Chief executive: Anthony Leyens

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israel.travel Destination Israel 3 Top 10

2 TOP 10 NAZARETH & THE GALILEE

When visiting Nazareth and a building as famous as the Basilica of the UNMISSABLE Annunciation — built on the site where Mary is said to have been told she’d give birth to Jesus — you prepare for disappointment. You expect there to be a hubbub — surely too many people, too little solemnity and no sense of those ancient times. But this pilgrimage site is a marvel in several ways. The exterior is graceful and elegant, and within lies a functioning church, built on top of older Byzantine and Crusader basilicas. People pray and quietly study the faith- themed artworks. Beneath this is the From left: Grotto of the Annunciation, a dimly lit Western Wall, and atmospheric sanctuary where it’s For those who want to see the highlights of the Holy Land, Chris Moss Jerusalem; said the angel Gabriel spoke to Mary. Israel Basilica of the A short drive away, The Sea of Galilee suggests Israel’s most inspiring historical and religious sites Annunciation, — the lowest freshwater lake on earth Nazareth; — is surrounded by eucalyptus, oak Tel Aviv trees, and olive groves, dotted with promenade wood cabins for rent. Mornings are beautiful and can be misty as well as mystical; after nightfall, stars sparkle from out of the lake’s inky darkness. 1 3 , JERUSALEM TEL AVIV

Part of the joy of exploring With its sultry Mediterranean climate, the promenade along the beach another Jerusalem’s Old City is wandering stunning coastline, buzzing nightlife, popular draw. Cosmopolitan Rothschild down quiet alleys, discovering hidden and top-notch gastronomy, Israel’s Boulevard, lined by cafes and bars is a shops, and having a pomegranate second-largest city is the ultimate for major axis during the day and is close juice while watching the world go those seeking some rest and recreation. to some of the best art galleries and by in this historical but vibrant The UNESCO-listed, Bauhaus-era indie boutiques. After dark, nearby destination. But, among the sites ‘White City’ is an architectural gem, Neve Tzedek is a great place to go wine you should make sure to tick off ideal for a morning walk or bike bar-hopping or craft-beer tasting, or on a first foray are the Cardo, the ride — the latter is taking off in this to explore the latest in contemporary renovated section of the Roman and compact, largely flat metropolis, with Israeli . Byzantine Jerusalem’s old market street, now filled with stylish shops, and the Hurva synagogue, a key holy site for four centuries that has been rebuilt numerous times. Be sure to wander along the iconic Via Dolorosa — or ‘Sorrowful Way’ — following the last journey of Jesus and visit the Western Wall, one of the most photographed sites in Israel, then head for the bustling Souq Khan es-Zeit — it’s the perfect place to get a tasty bite at one of the stalls. IMAGES: GETTY; IMAGES AWL

4 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 5 Top 10 Top 10

4 7 JAFFA CAESAREA

Jaffa, or Yafo, is one of the oldest Caesarea was one of the great ports ports on the Mediterranean, serving of antiquity, and archaeologists have pilgrims bound for Jerusalem. These found evidence of warehouses built days, the port proper is a cultural in King Herod’s day that once housed complex with a boardwalk and wine, olive oil, fruit syrups, metalwork, warehouses with shops, bars and and even Chinese porcelain. At the restaurants and the not-for-profit time, the vast city was home to palaces, Nalaga’at Center, home to a deaf-blind temples, a theater, a marketplace, a theater company, a cafe with deaf hippodrome, and advanced water and waiters and a ‘blackout’ restaurant sewage systems. Since the 14th century, with blind waiters. Built in 1891, much of this ancient city has been the Old Railway Station is another allowed to slip beneath the sand dunes, key landmark and the first railway but recent archaeological excavations terminus in the Middle East. But have unearthed a Roman site, including Jaffa’s real magic lies hidden away — at the bottom of the harbor — over down its narrow alleyways and in 1,300 column fragments (made of its tranquil courtyards. Around 50 marble imported from Italy and pink contemporary galleries, studios and granite from Aswan). Away from the design shops can be found here, as treasures is some great alfresco dining well as a famed flea market. Dining is and, north east of the ancient city, also excellent, with plenty of alfresco in modern Caesarea, one of Israel’s options. From here you can look back two golf courses. on high-rise, contemporary Tel Aviv, which grew around Jaffa in the early 20th century. instagram.com/camilaaa3

5 6 DID SAFED MARKETS Also known as Tzfat, this is the home You can’t be expected to go market- YOU KNOW? of the Jewish mystical tradition known rummaging on an empty stomach. as Kabbalah. When Palestine fell to So start your pilgrimage to Israel’s the Romans in AD70, the conquering gastronomic bazaars at Tel Aviv’s Built in 1891, leaders issued a decree ordering the Carmel Market, the city’s largest the Old Railway death of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, a fruit and vegetable market. As well prominent opponent and community as groceries, there are stalls selling Station in Jaffa leader. The rabbi fled with his son to a delicious borekas (filled salty pastries was the first cave near the northern town of Peki’in originating from Turkey), as well as where he deciphered — allegedly smart eateries offering everything railway terminus aided by divine inspiration — the from sushi to fusion cuisine. Next in the Middle East secrets hidden in the Torah. When door is the Nahalat Binyamin street the decree was lifted, he traveled market, bustling with musicians and widely, disseminating these truths. For circus acts and great for picking up more than a millennium, the study of high-quality original art and craft Kabbalah was limited to a few select pieces, for gifts or souvenirs: standout scholars of each generation. Tzafat items include glasswork, decorated is believed to have a special place in gourds and paintings. In Jerusalem, the Kabbalah because of its proximity Mahane Yehuda market, known locally to the area where Rabbi Shimon had as the Shuk, is a people-watching taught, as well as to his grave on Mount paradise; enjoy the bargaining and Meron. Today, a series of synagogues banter exchanged by its multicultural and a historical trail help visitors traders and international clientele grasp the history and importance of while feasting on tasty Middle Eastern This page: Roman aqueduct, Caesarea; Kabbalah — and, yes, Madonna has pastries, freshly brewed coffee and Opposite : Mahane Yehuda market,

been here. every juice imaginable. SHUTTERSTOCK GETTY; IMAGES: Jerusalem; Old Railway Station, Jaffa

6 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 7 Top 10 Top 10

9 ISRAEL MUSEUM

A lovely walk through Jerusalem’s Emek HaMatsleva — Rehavia Park takes visitors up to one of Israel’s most enthralling cultural assets. The Israel Museum covers 5,000 years of history, encompassing a huge antiquities wing, a similarly sized section devoted to Jewish art and life, and a fine arts gallery. Temporary shows with diverse themes — recent exhibitions included Roman emperor Hadrian and Weimar Berlin’s art scene — complement the permanent displays. Outside the main complex lies an art garden and the Shrine of the Book, a sci-fi-looking building housing the Dead Sea Scrolls. Before starting a tour (which takes at least half a day), grab a complimentary audio guide from the visitor center. There’s a good restaurant on site if you want to make a day of it. instagram.com/camilaaa3

10 MASADA

8 Rise early to avoid the heat and trek the AKKO steep path to the top of this mountain fortress for panoramic views and Even by the mindbogglingly ancient to tour the ruins of Herod’s palaces standards of the Holy Land, Akko (Acre) and some of the most complete siege — a UNESCO-listed city on a peninsula works anywhere in the Roman world. on the Mediterranean — is very old The mass suicide of 960 people at indeed. Cited in Egyptian sacred texts Masada in AD73, recorded by historian from the 19th century BC, it’s been Josephus as an act of resistance against continuously settled since the times of the Roman invaders, marked the the Phoenicians. What you see today beginning of a 2,000-year diaspora is mainly a fortified town dating from for the Jewish people. No doubt this the 18th and 19th centuries with typical dramatic clifftop location was chosen Ottoman features, but the remains of in the hope that the landscape would the Crusader town, dating from 1104 aid resistance. The situation of the to 1291, lie almost intact. A quiet, settlement is dizzyingly dramatic — dreamy place of lofty ramparts, deep standing around 200ft above sea level moats, green domes, slender minarets, feels like five times that height because church towers, secret passageways the Dead Sea, which Masada overlooks, and subterranean vaults, it’s a favorite is 1,400ft below sea level. among travelers. Take your camera and, if you can’t From left: Akko; Masada face the hike, there’s a cable car that IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; ISRAELI MINISTRY OF TOURISM will whisk you up and down in minutes.

8 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 9 ( Tel at Ha’Carmel Shuk notably Aviv’s same; the do stalls market — offers one’ for ‘two have many it’s because time, closing before crowded so are bakeries ( Cofix chain (under nationwide $2.50), visit ILS5 at croissants and sandwiches ($9). ILS35 under juices, For coffee, are servings parlours, shawarma and pizza At tasty. and cheap is food Street Festival takes place. place. takes Festival Adom Darom the and blossom poppies red of thousands when February, in Negev northern the to head festivals, free best For the one of Jerusalem). and Haifa in (especially procession religious or festival it’s amusic whether country, the in somewhere happening event astreet always there’s and sessions tasting free offer wineries Some compromising on style or location. location. or style on compromising without value great offer Haifa and Aviv and Atlas Hotels ( Hotels Atlas and co.il ( Hotels Smart like chains Alternatively, cabins). (self-catering Zimmer the out check regions, southern and northern to For trips homes. Israeli in rooms and apartments renting for option agood are websites Peer-to-peer Travel tips 10 10 shuktlv.co.il ACCOMMODATION ENTERTAINMENT FOOD &DRINK Israel ) for Jerusalem and Mitzpe Ramon; Ramon; Mitzpe and Jerusalem ) for Destination Israel Destination cofix.co.il You don’t have to spend a fortune to explore Israel in style. style. in Israel explore to afortune You spend to don’t have Our experts share their top tips on how to see the country country the see to how on tips top their share experts Our ) on Friday afternoons. afternoons. ) on Friday ). And if you wonder why why wonder you if ). And atlas.co.il AFFORDABLE on a budget — and in comfort in —and abudget on smarthotels. ) for Tel) for ILS150 ($39).ILS150 for sites 65 to access gives which a pass, purchasing it’s worth one trip, in a few on visiting plan you if low and, extremely fees to national parks ( parks national to fees Entrance beaches. pristine country’s the of all and churches many as well as Park, Timna and Ramon Mitzpe Caesarea, Akko, Old City, Jerusalem’s free: are sites magical most Israel’s of Some bike ( bike electric TelIn aTel-O-Fun Aviv, hire ( Trail National Israel 620-mile the Try explore. to way acheap also is Hiking Galilee. in city ancient the Tiberias, ( morning Saturday each here tours walking free are There minutes. 30 country from north to south. to north from country and reliable. and comfortable fast, is train but the Aviv Tel to airport the from no sherut there’s Unfortunately, or Haifa. Jerusalem to airport the from go to way cost-efficient most the —it’s also cities connect that taxis) (shared sherut of system cheap the is stops). impressive bus Most at timetables no English (therebus are the than Hebrew, easier read can’t you if and, priced reasonably are Taxis israeltrail.net bauhaus-center.com TOURS &ACTIVITIES TOURS ATTRACTIONS TRANSPORT tel-o-fun.co.il ); it spans the whole whole the ); spans it ) — free for the first first the for ) —free ) as well as in in as well ) as parks.org.il

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juice barsonmost certain to make it Fresh juices, such refreshing you’re and markets for ($5.30). Askfor less thanILS20 are available at pomegranates, as those made as thosemade street corners a loyalty card from pressed a dailyhabit. DID YOU YOU DID — they’re so KNOW? israel.travel

IMAGES: KFIR SIVAN; GUY YACHIELY israel.travel Destination Israel Destination Both images: Tel Aviv images: Both Travel tips

11 City guide: Tel Aviv City guide: Tel Aviv

48 HOURS Tel Aviv At-a-glance guide by writer and resident, Sonia Soltani, who left behind London life in favor of this cosmopolitan and hedonistic

city by the sea Yoga on Frishman beach by instagram.com/alexi_pix. Below: Carmel market DAY ONE DAY TWO 5 of the best restaurants Morning: Head to Old Jaffa, one of Morning: Join the locals and indulge in the most ancient inhabited cities in a typical breakfast of eggs, salad and the world. The former fortress hosts coffee along leafy Rothschild Boulevard. the remnants of the battles that took Dubbed the White City and a designated place in its midst, but it’s the delightful UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cobbled alleys, myriad art galleries, magnificent cluster of Bauhaus buildings, renovated harbor, and lively Shuk free guided tours are offered around Tel Hapishpishim (flea market) that will Aviv on Saturdays at 11am. capture your imagination. Afternoon: Visit the Tel Aviv Museum Afternoon: Rent one of the city’s green of Art to browse the country’s most SHILA CATIT LILIYOT DECA LILI24 Tel-O-Fun bikes (the first 30 minutes comprehensive collection of modern art are free) or walk along the seaside to or go to one of the city’s sandy beaches Every dish at Sharon This small restaurant Just a few steps away from It’s worth venturing outside For a delightful, kosher reach Neve Tzedek, the atmospheric — Bograshov, Frishman or Gordon — Cohen’s minimalist (around 10 tables) remains the Museum of Art, this is the city center to eat at this French-style dinner, few neighborhood that predates the where families sunbathe to the familiar restaurant explodes the most experimental arguably the best high- kosher fish restaurant. Set places can compete with foundation of Tel Aviv. This enchanting tak-tak-tak sound of matkot, the popular with Mediterranean establishment belonging end kosher restaurant in in a business district, it’s the ambiance of this retro- district is home to colorful low-rise Israeli beach paddle-ball game. flavors. The red tuna to leading fusion chef Meir town. Chef Shmuel Kabody the place to negotiate over chic bistro, which thankfully buildings, designer boutiques, trendy Evening: Join the fashionable crowds carpaccio with a Campari Adoni. The veal fillet in cleverly uses Jewish classics a bouillabaisse fish stew or lacks the pompousness of cafes and restaurants. in the bars around Dizengoff Square or lemongrass sorbet and espresso butter, shrimp such as chopped liver to taste chef Roi Cohen’s some of its Gallic forebears. Evening: Book a visit to the Suzanne enjoy a cocktail on the beach as the sun pickled seaweed, and gnocchi and confit mussels and braised goose, but rendering of classics such Here the crusty baguette Dellal Center, home to the Batsheva goes down on the Med and night revelers the octopus salads are are just some of the exotic gives them such delicate as the artichoke soup, is homemade and staples Dance Company, to watch a show. hit the Tayelet (promenade). highlights of the varied offerings on a menu that companions that the ravioli and gnocchi. Go at of the French culinary fish-heavy menu. Sit at reads like a trip from the experience is as far removed night for a more romantic repertoire include steak the bar to admire the Med to Asia, including from shtetl (village) fare atmosphere and to indulge tartare for those who Don’t miss: Carmel market and adjacent dexterity of the cooks. distinct Israeli flavours as imaginable. Asia House in a bottle of award-winning despair at the scarcity 182 Ben Yehuda Street. along the way. 57 Nahalat Complex, 2 Dafna Street. Israeli wine. 10 HaTa’assiya of kosher versions. 24 Nachlat Binyamin street for its bustling craft shila-rest.co.il Binyamin. catit.co.il liliyot.co.il Street. deca.co.il Lilienblum Street. lili24.co.il fair on Tuesdays and Fridays IMAGES: AWL IMAGES

12 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 13 Food & drink Recipe

AT MY

tableNigel Wilson dines in a Tel Aviv home for a flavor of local cooking and hospitality

habbat morning in Tel Aviv is number 13 too?” he asks. His name is greeting from the kitchen. Mike and the city at its sleepiest. The cafes Mike, and like me, he’s hungry for this I take a seat next to Brigid, from Sin Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv’s oldest morning’s Israeli breakfast. Germany, and Michal, a local from Tel neighborhood, are shuttered. Aside Number 13 turns out to be close by Aviv, around a table laden with cold from a few dog-walkers, the leafy and our host Noa appears at the door, plates, including regional classics like FISH FALAFEL sidewalks are deserted. beaming and welcoming us into her hummus and labneh (yoghurt cheese). A couple of streets behind the main home. Noa’s husband, Ran — busy Ran arrives with a tray of shot glasses, drag, a lost-looking man greets me in preparing the final dishes for the filled with miniature Bloody Marys. In Israel, there’s no escaping falafel, a British accent. “Are you looking for morning feast — extends a cheery “Lchaim!” we toast, then down them. but like any classic, variations have emerged. Deca restaurant in Tel Aviv shares its recipe for a fresh Before I set out that morning, the idea once spent a night as an impromptu alternative to the ubiquitous of sitting with a handful of strangers for jazz pianist in a dive bar. And with deep-fried chickpea snack. deca.co.il a two-hour breakfast in someone else’s the cooking over and tummies almost home prompted curiosity and anxiety filled, Ran and Noa join the party and in equal measure. But after just a few share tales from their unconventional Serves 6 Prep time 30 mins minutes, I was entirely relaxed — the wedding day, which included a trip to Bloody Mary may have helped. their favorite burger joint in Tel Aviv. “It’s the second time I’ve had a The conversation flows from the history 18oz chickpeas group foodie of Tel Aviv and (soaked for at least eight hours) experience,” nearby Jaffa to 1 pound ground mullet fish Brigid says, A foot-long pastry a sprinkling of 1 cup parsley enthusiastically Israeli politics. 1 cup cilantro describing the stuffed with mashed The couple have 1 cup chopped celery culinary market hosted events at 1 tbsp garlic tour she tried a sweet potato is their house via 2 tbsp salt few days earlier. Israeli start-up, Grated nutmeg “It’s such a good followed by three Eat With, for Pinch of cumin way to meet two years. “My Breadcrumbs people from other kinds of shakshuka favorite part is countries and to cooking, but I love learn about Israeli hosting too,” says 1. Blend the chickpeas, fish and food, and the dishes taste great.” Ran, who works as a chef. celery together. I dip an eggplant wrap into a bowl As afternoon approaches, Ran 2. Add remaining ingredients, apart of nutty tahini and agree. Next, the hot presents us with a final alcoholic treat from the breadcrumbs. Mix well and food starts to arrive. A foot-long pastry — a choice between Grand Marnier and check seasoning. stuffed with mashed sweet potato is a mysterious unmarked bottle said to 3. Create balls from the mix and roll followed by three kinds of shakshuka contain Romanian grappa. Continuing in breadcrumbs. (a regional staple of poached eggs in a in the spirit of the morning’s new 4. Deep fry in oil until golden brown Nigel Wilson sauce of tomatoes, chili peppers, and experiences, we all opt for the grappa, and serve hot with a salad of cherry tucks into a onions), served in frying pans. before heading our separate ways. tomatoes, herbs and tahini dressing. home-cooked Mike delights the room with The author booked his meal through Eat Israeli breakfast anecdotes from the rambunctious With, which offers edible experiences in

IMAGES: NITZAN HAFNER; DECA HAFNER; NITZAN IMAGES: San Francisco of the 1970s, where he eight locations in Israel. eatwith.com

14 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 15 Food & drink Food & drink ineries5 OF THE BEST HopON THE WThere’s no better place to taste Israel’s award-winning wines than on home soil. Sampling beer on a tour of Israel can be a great With 300 wineries on offer, here’s our pick of the bunch way to get to know the country, its history and people, reports Kevin Pilley FLAM WINERY Expect a warm welcome rank Zappa was right — you can’t be a real country 1 from owner Golan Flam unless you have a beer and an airline. And with El Al himself at this family-run boutique MORAD F now serving a full-bodied Belgian blonde-style ale winery in the Judean Hills at Eshtaol. WINERY from homegrown boutique Alexander Brewery on its flights, Wines made here are elegant and 3 Located in an idyllic Israel certainly ticks both boxes. world class with Flam’s reserve setting at the foot of Mount Beer culture has been slowly fermenting in Israel cabernet sauvignon rated 90 out of Carmel, Morad Winery produces — and it’s not all about Gold Star, Nesher and Maccabee. 100 by renowned wine critic Robert a host of wines using some of The new Beer Bazaar in Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda Parker. There are five distinctive reds, Israel’s freshest fruits. Many Market, for instance, serves over 90 handcrafted beers, a white and a rose on offer. Go on a kibbutzim across the country in bottles and on tap, including the potent Red Eye Special. Friday (by appointment only) for produce wine using banana and Made from nitro-cold coffee and hand-crafted stout it’s guided tours to learn about the kumquat, but here the Morad the perfect pick-me-up. wine-making process and get to taste and Bodner families create Brewing in Israel has come a long way since the first beer and purchase some impressive fine blends using passion fruit, brand, Nesher, began production in 1934. In addition to the wines — don’t miss the delicious pomegranates, apples, and red mass market giants, you’ll now find around 120 beers being cheeseboard, too. flamwinery.com grapefruit, to name just a few. produced by 20 microbreweries. The pomegranate wine is said to The Alexander Brewery in Emek Hefer, near the site of help lower blood pressure and David and Goliath’s Biblical battle, produces five beers. Run by cholesterol two former Israeli Air Force pilots and a pair of Israeli TABOR WINERY and is full of restaurateur brothers, the brewmaster is a Dutchman whose If picturesque views enhance a wine-tasting antioxidants. session then this will be a memorable morad.co.il 2 experience. Nestled in the foothills of Mount Did you know? The Beer Bazaar Tabor in the Galilee region, these award-winning wines include those made from Viognier, Gewürztraminer or in Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda Roussane (a Rhone Valley varietal grown in the Golan Heights) grapes. Visit during summer to join in one of BREWERY market serves over 90 Israeli beers the winery’s family harvest days — book through the visitors’ center (open Sunday to Thursday). Here you can CONTACTS and has a kosher meat menu pick and crush your own grapes before toasting your efforts with a flute of ‘562’ sparkling wine, named after the height (in meters) of Mount Tabor. twc.co.il Alexander Brewery beers — made from European hops, malt and yeast, and Israeli 19 Tzvi Hanahal St, Emek Hefer. water — flow freely during the ILS50 ($13) tasting tours. alexander-brewery.co.il Alexander also produces green beer from guava, grapefruit Dancing Camel and mango. It’s just one of a growing number of breweries TULIP WINERY RECANATI Vital 10, Florentin, Tel Aviv. experimenting with the fruits of the land. Elsewhere, Israel’s largest boutique WINERY dancingcamel.com Pumpkin Ale is a speciality of the Galil Brewery at Moran. 4 winery produces stellar wines 5 A relatively new winery Negev Brewery Negev Brewery owner Yochai Kudler isn’t afraid to use new and a heart-warming community spirit in Israel, Recanati has carved out Kislec St 27, Kiryat Gat. ingredients, either, having learned the craft in Alaska where in the mountainside village of Kfar Tikva an impressive path for itself with negevbrewery.com he experimented with salmon beer. Head here and you can (Village of Hope), where villagers with international recognition ranging from Lone Tree Brewery Clockwise from sip a variety of brews such as Genesis and Charlton (the latter special needs or disabilities get involved numerous awards to high profile fans Abu Cleb, Gush Etzion. left: Vineyard named after a fourth-century desert hermit). in the production process. Over 220,000 such as the master sommelier from onetreebrewery.com in Tabor; Alternatively, travel 15 miles from Jerusalem to the Lone bottles of the 12 varietals are produced Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant in Golan Brewery Morad Winery Tree Brewery (West Bank). Here, Scottish former biologist each year entirely by hand. Situated London. Located in the Hefer Valley, Qatzrin, Golan Heights. pomegranate David Shire and his Tunisian wife, Myriam, along with US north of Haifa, the winery’s visitors’ it produces a range of red and white beergolan.co.il wine; Beer couple Susan and John Levin, produce a range of ales, as well center offers insights into this special wines using ever popular grapes such as Bazaar; as an excellent extra oatmeal stout. With a tour costing just project, as well as those all-important the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz Alexander ILS20 ($5.20) and a 330ml bottle ILS15 ($4), you certainly

tastings. tulip-winery.co.il and Syrah. recanati-winery.com WORDS: KEVIN PILLEY; IMAGE: ALAMY Brewery beer don’t want to be the designated driver.

16 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 17 Street food Street food

KNAFEH 5 For those who can never quite decide on whether they’re in the mood HUMMUS for sweet or savory... Recipes vary but in Jerusalem, knafeh consists of neon-orange filo dough layered with As long as you’ve got a food Serves 6 Prep time 10 mins melted ricotta-like goat’s cheese, processor, hummus is one of the covered in rosewater flavored sugar easiest dishes to make. The chickpea Street syrup and topped with chopped dip can be jazzed up with a variety of 1. Rinse chickpeas in water and add to pistachios. A speciality of the Levant spices, but here’s the classic recipe food processor. region — which consists of Israel, 2. Blend the chickpeas with all the Jordan, Lebanon, Cyprus, Palestine, ingredients except the oil. Add the oil Syria and southern Turkey — it’s 5 cups canned chickpeas (drained) slowly as the mixture comes together considered an Arab delicacy and the 5 tsp high quality tahini paste in a creamy purée. ultimate dessert during Ramadan, but 2 garlic cloves 3. Transfer to a bowl and smooth the is eaten by Jews and Arabs alike. Sea salt surface with the back of a spoon. FEAST Where to eat it: Jaffar’s Sweets on 3½ tbsp lemon juice Drizzle a little oil into the middle, and Josephine Price rounds up seven Israeli street foods, Souq Khan es-Zeir Rd, Jerusalem. ½ tsp ground cumin top with some extra chickpeas or plus a recipe for those feeling ravenous at home 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil parsley, as pictured. BUREKAS 6 Arriving in Israel from Turkey in 1935 with a small stand opening up in the Florentine area of Tel Aviv, burekas hail from the culinary traditions of

SHAWARMA RUGELACH 2 This iconic meat delicacy 4 Once simply a sweet treat served consists of fragrantly spiced meat on Jewish holidays such as Hanukkah (chicken, turkey or lamb) which is and Shavuot, rugelach — a slightly cooked for hours on a rotating spit undercooked, gooey, rich butter pastry to ensure the meat is tender. Like — has achieved legendary status and is many things in Israel, it’s served in eaten year round. Yiddish for ‘little a pita wrap with fresh salads and twists’ or ‘rolled things’, the croissant- sauces, including hummus, tahini, like pastry is usually filled with and pickles. chocolate, or substituted for halva, or Where to eat it: To taste the jelly and dried fruits. nation’s best, head north to Haifa, Where to eat it: Ardent fans of famed for its shawarma shops. rugelach flock to the Marzipan bakery on Agripas Street at the shuk in SABICH Jerusalem for what they believe is the 3 Often called the country’s best around. Such is the demand, it can Sephardic and Mizrahi Jews. The filo RED KUBBEH SOUP best-kept secret, sabich isn’t well be shipped — frozen — worldwide as pastry parcels are stuffed with cheese, 1 There’s something comforting about known in the US, but in Israel, it’s an some people simply can’t live without it. spinach or potatoes and while it’s soups and this classic from Jerusalem institution. Created near Tel Aviv, in marzipanbakery.com possible to get meat versions, they’ve packs a flavorsome punch. The ‘kubbeh’ the city of Ramat Gan by Iraqi Jewish never quite reached the same level (meat-filled semolina and bulgur wheat immigrants, it’s made from fried of popularity. dumplings), float in a mildly-spiced eggplant, hard-boiled eggs, Where to eat it: Try Leon and Sons at broth of beetroot and root vegetables. hummus and pickles — all stuffed 17 Olei Tzion in Jaffa. Kubbeh soup is closely associated with in a fresh, warm pita. Covered with the culinary heritage of the Iraqi and a generous helping of amba, the HUMMUS Kurdish Jewish communities and often Iraqi-Jewish mango sauce, sabich 7 The deliciously creamy, flavorful known by its Kurdish name ‘Marak was once a humble breakfast dish, homemade variety is best served with Kubbeh Adom’, the most basic version named after the Arabic word for fresh pita bread, and Israelis eat this of the soup. But there are countless ‘morning’, but has become an at morning, noon or night. Its lumpier varieties with recipes passed down the all-day snack. cousin masabacha is made with generations. Where to eat it: Top chefs have whole chickpeas. Where to eat it: The Morduch made this simple snack an Where to eat it: (also restaurant in the shuk (market) in irresistible delicacy. Try it at Oved known as Ali Karavan) at 1, Dolphin Jerusalem is legendary for its take on Daniel’s eatery on Sirkin Street in Street, Jaffa. Open from 7.45am, it’s the classic. morduch.com Givatayim, near Tel Aviv. totally addictive. IMAGES: GETTY; ISTOCKPHOTO; STOCKFOOD; SHUTTERSTOCK STOCKFOOD; ISTOCKPHOTO; GETTY; IMAGES:

18 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 19 Eilat Eilat

Did you know? The 1,200-meter reef at Coral Beach is home EAT to over 5,000 types Breakfast/brunch: Il Pentolino of marine life This kosher dairy Italian restaurant is located away from the city center, yet it’s a great place to start the day. For around ILS50 ($13) you can tuck into a generous Israeli breakfast as well as New York-style . Best of all is the breathtaking view of the desert mountains from the balcony. rol.co.il/sites/eng/pentolino

Lunch: Shipudei Habustan This restaurant at the Dan Eilat hotel serves some of the best kosher gourmet Israeli/Middle Eastern fare SHIFTING in the city. Don’t miss the chips — possibly the best in town. Expect to pay ILS100 ($26) for steak. danhotels.com

Dinner: Yakimono Royal Beach The upscale, dimly lit Yakimono restaurant at the Royal Beach Hotel sandsTransformed from a former desert outpost into a popular Red Sea delivers probably the best kosher resort, Eilat offers plenty to do on vacation, says Sharron Livingston Japanese food in Eilat, offering seaweed salads, sashimi, sushi, tempura, and dim sum on the terrace overlooking the Gulf of Aqaba and marina. Expect to pay ILS130 ($34) Camel trekking. per head. yakimono.co.il Left: Beach in Eilat.

IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY ALAMY; IMAGES: Below: Ice Mall

THINGS TO DO

WATCH THE FISH AT GET IN THE SADDLE AT from the pretty palm-dotted, soft- CHILL OUT AT ICE SPACE and a miniature cinema offers a 7D CORAL WORLD CAMEL RANCH sand beach while catching some rays. The only place to don a hat and gloves in experience that includes temperature Glass walls allow visitors to see the Take a two-hour sunset camel trek A wooden pier reaches out into the Eilat, this winter wonderland is located and weather changes — expect wind comings and goings of life in the deep through the desert, ending at nightfall. sea from which the dolphins are fed. by the marina. Built from ice and dotted and rain. icemalleilat.co.il blue sea, but above the water there The guided tour includes a snack of There’s also a series of heated wellness with magnificent sculptures of polar are also turtles and exotic fish to Bedouin pita which is made on the pools — one freshwater, one Red Sea bears, penguins and flowers, highlights LISTEN TO LIVE MUSIC watch, and a whole Amazon section ranch and served with labneh cheese, water, one mineral water — and each include an ice bar and a fast 18-meter Visit the atmospheric Three Monkeys where piranhas and anacondas seem olives and tea made from plants grown one has soothing underwater music. ice slide — and it’s not just for kids. Pub on the Royal Beach Promenade positively harmless from behind the in the desert. Book a massage session with the The entrance fee of ILS54 ($14) includes — one of the oldest and most popular glass. A real highlight is the feeding Sunset treks from ILS245 ($64). resident hydrotherapist, who will hold the rental of warm clothes. bars in Eilat. Every night Israeli of the sharks — in a flourish of camel-ranch.co.il you gently in the water, placing floats ice-space.co.il DJs and live bands pump out a mix showmanship, a diver swims among beneath your knees and back, and of old classics and new chart songs, the fish and the sharks, offering TAKE A DIP AT move various parts of your body to SKATE AT THE MALL while punters drink beer (there’s an food while entertaining onlookers, DOLPHIN REEF induce deep relaxation. Further along the promenade is one of impressive selection), wine or cocktails. especially children. Entrance ILS99 Head here to see a school of bottlenose Entrance ILS67 ($17.60) for adults and the world’s only shopping malls with There’s lots of dancing space, too. ($26) for adults and ILS79 ($20) for dolphins in their natural habitat. Swim ILS46 ($12) for children. an ice rink. Around 150 shops and Cocktails from ILS25 ($6.60). children. coralworld.co.il with them or just watch them play dolphinreef.co.il cafes circle an ice rink and snow dome threemonkeyspub.co.il

20 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 21 Jerusalem Jerusalem

WALKING THROUGH

historyThe best way to immerse yourself in Jerusalem is on foot. Chris Moss takes a route that encompasses the city’s most recent and historic highlights

Mount of Olives

There’s only one place to start a walking tour of Jerusalem, and that’s up on the Mount of Olives. From this eastern vantage point above the city, I can easily pick out at least a dozen landmarks. On my left is the City of David, an archaeological site located where the Jerusalem of the pre-Babylonian exile era stood. Beneath me lies a beautiful, sombre graveyard and, in the Mamilla Mall distance, church steeples and Left to right: Gate of Mercy on towers are scattered across the the Mount Olives; Church of Holy horizon. Glowing in the center of it Sepulchre; Mahane Yehuda Market all, high up on the Temple Mount, is the golden Dome of the Rock. Old Jerusalem Mamilla Mahane Yehuda Market

I make my way down the hill and enter the city In the midst of the hustle and bustle, a I exit via the Jaffa Gate, named Nicknamed ‘the shuk’ in Hebrew, via the Lion’s Gate. Rather confusingly, the thousand pilgrims push past; local shoppers after the westerly port where this emblematic market is a colorful fierce-looking carved animals that flank it are, haggle over weights and prices; and further so many Christian and Jewish and clamorous place, and a favorite in fact, tigers — the heraldic symbol of the away, heated games of backgammon carry on pilgrims once landed. A couple of spot amongst locals to spend 13th-century Sultan Beybars. uninterrupted. There’s no need to minutes later, I’m strolling through time mingling, browsing, trading Old Jerusalem is divided into Jewish, over-plan a journey through Old Jerusalem. the Mamilla Mall, a very modern and enjoying a quick coffee and Christian, Armenian and Arab/Muslim Taking spontaneous twists and turns, and counterpart to Old Jerusalem. chapuria (cheese pastry) from the quarters. My stroll takes me down the storied exploring quiet alleys is all part of the fun. Scattered all along the open-air Hachapuria Georgian bakery. Via Dolorosa and then along a zigzagging Grand European-style piazzas to the west promenade are sophisticated At Azura, I feast on freshly route through to the majestic Western Wall, are hemmed in by ancient landmarks: the boutiques and stylish coffee prepared hummus followed by associated with a number of pivotal moments in Alexander Nevsky Church, housing remnants shops. Beyond these, I pass the kima — lamb kebab with layers Jewish history. of emperor Constantine’s Holy Sepulchre Mamilla Cemetery. Dating from of eggplant, potato and spinach Moving on, I stop short at the Church of the church; the Greek Patriarchate, seat of one of Byzantine times, it houses several leaves dipped in gravy. I can taste Holy Sepulchre, believed to be where Jesus was the most senior bishops of the Orthodox Church; impressive Mamluk mausoleums hints of Turkish, Iraqi, and perhaps crucified and interred. Attempting to decode so and the Tower of David, a 16th-century citadel. and Sufi shrines. At its center is even Tunisian influences. Fittingly, many iconic sites at the same time as navigating The latter, I decide, is the perfect backdrop the Mamilla Pool, one of three it’s all kosher — the perfect meal narrow bazaar-lined alleyways leaves me both against which to simply sit and absorb the reservoirs built by Herod the for wrapping up a stroll through dizzy and exhilarated. city’s 4,000-year history. Great in the first century BC. cosmopolitan Jerusalem. IMAGES: ISRAEL MINISTRY OF TOURISM. NOTE: SOME DESTINATIONS ARE IN EAST JERUSALEM/WEST BANK

22 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 23 Active Israel Active Israel

ROAD TO 10 NATURAL HIGHS

Marathons 1 Join the locals and take part in enlightenment one of the many marathons taking place in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and various other destinations in Israel — it’s the ideal way to quickly soak up the scenery, keep fit and experience an incredible atmosphere, too. goisrael.com

Sail the Med Masada on foot 2 Like the Phoenician seafarers 6 Rise early to avoid the heat and millennia before, set sail on the Med. attempt the hour-long hike along the Between Akko and Haifa is an armada steep ‘Snake Path’ to the majestic hilltop of marinas with yacht charters and fortress of Masada at sunrise. sailing schools. quarterwind.com goisrael.com

Gallop through Galilee Sleep under the stars 3 Saddle up and gallop for a day 7 Spend a night stargazing in the or more through Galilee’s fertile Negev Desert where camping in the countryside making sure to ride to the mighty Ramon Crater yields incredible Sirin Heights for commanding views starlight horizons. of the Jordan Valley. goisrael.com deepdesertisrael.com

Art of cooking Tiberias’ thermal baths You don’t have to be a devout cyclist to enjoy a two-wheeled tour skaters and joggers zipping insouciantly 4 Join local chef, Tali Friedman, to 8 Let the hot thermal waters perform of the Holy Land, discovers Mark Stratton along Herbert Samuel street; passing explore Jerusalem’s Mahane Yehuda miracles at Tiberias’ historic 3,000 beaches crowded with locals moving market before heading to her atelier year-old baths, which are said to be the in and out of boisterous coastal bars to prepare a flavorsome kosher meal. first of their kind in the world and where e’re midnight crusaders. bells of an Armenian church chime During my five days and alfresco seafood restaurants. talifriedman.co.il Jesus healed the sick. gogalilee.org.il Clad in lycra, we pierce crisply among Jerusalem’s labyrinth Follow the seafront cycle way as it W Jerusalem’s redoubtable city of streets as we freewheel down Via in Israel, every turn continues south and you’ll discover the walls; slipping unnoticed through the Dolorosa, along which Jesus bore his ancient world in Jaffa: 9,500 years of Dead Sea delights Cresting the waves imposing 16th-century Jaffa Gate. cross en route to his crucifixion. I catch of my wheel presents continuous settlement now marked 5 After ticking off the must-have 9Perform aerial twists and turns like By day ancient Jerusalem is so golden glimpses of the illuminated by Byzantine walls, mosques, and an photo of yourself floating in the Dead flying dolphins, kite-surfing off Israel’s crowded with pilgrims and visitors that Dome of the Rock while the day’s a rich juxtaposition Ottoman clocktower. Sea reading a newspaper, head indoors Mediterranean coastline. Specialist riding a bicycle would cause mayhem. lengthy lines of Jewish pilgrims waiting On other days I rode back into Biblical to a hotel spa for a treatment using schools are found in Eilat, Haifa, and Bat But around midnight, it’s tranquil to enter the sanctuary of the Western of old and new Israel: into the Judean Hills’ parched the mineral-rich mud. goisrael.com Yam. kitesurfisrael.com enough to sense 4,000 years of history Wall have long vanished. landscape to where David is said to have lingering among dimly lit lanes. During five days’ touring Israel by slain Goliath in the Valley of Elah. I hare Following the back wheel of my bicycle, every turn of my wheel presents around a course amid pine forests that Red Sea reefs guide, Amir Rockman, it feels almost a rich juxtaposition of old and new. culminate with lofty views over the Gaza 10 Grab a wet suit and experience sacrilegious to career around one of the I’d started my tour in Tel Aviv, a Strip and the Mediterranean. world-class diving among coral world’s holiest cities by bicycle as if it stark contrast to Jerusalem’s religious Finally I cycle around the rim of the reefs teeming with tropical fish and were some sort of a BMX playground. conservatism, where hedonism and Negev Desert’s mighty Ramon Crater Clockwise from shipwrecks. The calm, shallow waters But oh boy, it’s fun. We judder along modernity reign. Among some 44 where high-speed descents provide a above: biking around Eilat are ideal for both beginners cobbles, rumble down flights of steps, miles of marked cycle routes, my delicious sense of coolness to counter the Judean and advanced divers. goisrael.com and shimmy like slalom skiers between favorite ride was along Tel Aviv’s sun- southern Israel’s furnace-like heat. desert; view the colonnaded market of the ancient drenched promenade, shadowing the Mark Stratton travelled with Gordon from Masada;

Roman-era Cardo thoroughfare. The Mediterranean. Here I join myriad roller GETTY IMAGES: Active Tours. gordonactive.com Red Sea diving

24 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 25 Sample itineraries Travel essentials Matchmaker Essentials Whether you’re a return visitor or a first-timer, we suggest a variety of itineraries and attractions to help you plan the perfect trip WHEN TO GO York (JFK and Newark-Liberty). Air Northern Israel enjoys a southern Canada also flies direct from New York REGULAR VISITORS TRAVEL ADVICE Mediterranean climate, and southern to Tel Aviv. & CONTACT Israel a typically Middle Eastern climate. Average flight time: 10h from New York Think you’ve seen it all? Why not... The ideal time to visit is during spring to Tel Aviv. Israel Government Tourist Office and autumn, when the weather is warm Tel Aviv Facebook: facebook.com/goisrael and pleasant. Winter sees light rain and GETTING AROUND • Take a ride on the Tel Aviv hot air Twitter: twitter.com/israeltourism snow at higher altitudes, including in As Israel is small, it’s easy to get around balloon. tlv-balloon.co.il Instagram: instagram.com/visit_israel Jerusalem, but southern Eilat, the Dead the country in a relatively short space of • Visit the Illana Goor Museum in Website: israel.travel Sea and the Negev are ideal winter sun time. Public transport is convenient, Jaffa.ilanagoormuseum.org destinations, with temperatures hovering reliable, and reasonably priced. • Stroll Nachalat Binyamin Pedestrian around the mid-20Cs. Trains: Israel Railways operates six main Mall, adjacent to Carmel market, on train lines and a number of suburban Tuesdays or Fridays, to see its arts Currency: New shekel (ILS). $1 = ILS3.76. routes, with a regular service from and crafts fair. visit-tel-aviv.com Time: GMT +2. Nahariya to Ben Gurion Airport, stopping International dial code: 00 972. at Akko, Haifa, Binyamina, Tel Aviv, and Jerusalem Language: Hebrew and Arabic are the Jerusalem en route. rail.co.il • Join a free tour of the Knesset, official languages. Hebrew is spoken Buses: Buses are frequent and link even Israeli Parliament. knesset.gov.il by approximately 70% of the population the smallest of communities. The Egged • Volunteer time. funinjerusalem.com/ and Arabic by around 15%. English is bus company operates most of the volunteer-activities widely spoken. intercity bus lines, as well as local • Book a guided Segway tour. Red tape: US passport holders need to services in larger cities and towns. FIRST-TIMERS REPEAT VISITORS jerusalemsegwaytours.com have six months left on their passport Tickets can be purchased at booths in • Venture outside the city and from the date of their return flight. the central bus station of a town or from Days 1 & 2 Jerusalem Day 1 Tel Aviv get your hands dirty digging for A tourist visa is required, but can be bus drivers. egged.co.il Take a sherut (shared taxi) from Ben Start with a Bauhaus walking tour, then archaeological treasures at Beit obtained at the port of entry. Flying into Please note that public transportation Gurion airport to the city center. See p22 visit the Eretz Israel Museum. If you’re Guvrin National Park. Ben Gurion Airport, passports are no does not run from sundown on Friday to for a sample walking tour. In the evening, there on a Friday, head to the port for a funinjerusalem.com/dig-4-day longer stamped and a removable entry sundown on Saturday. don’t miss the Tower of David Light tasty market experience, followed by the card is provided. Flying into Ovda Taxis: Visitors have the option of private Show, a musical and visual presentation ‘Kabbalat Shabbat by the Beach’ event Eilat Airport, passports will be stamped taxis (which do operate on the Sabbath) of the history of the city. that takes place at sundown. Enjoy dinner • Visit the Musical Fountain... it’s free. unless you request for it not to be. In this and also sherut (shared taxi). Drivers are at one of Tel Aviv’s top restaurants (p13). redseaeilat.com/what-to-do/events case, a separate document will be required by law to operate a meter. Day 3 Galilee • Shop then skate at the ice rink. provided at immigration. Car hire: Traffic drives on the right and Rent a car and drive north to tour Day 2 The Dead Sea icemalleilat.co.il an excellent road system connects all and taste Israeli wine at some of the Drive to Masada. Tour the museum at the • Swim and dive with wild dolphins GETTING THERE towns. Car hire is available at most region’s excellent vineyards, take a dip bottom of the mountain, then take the at Dolphin Reef — they’re free Continental, Delta, El Al and US Airways airports and ports, and in all major in the hot springs, and see the beautiful cable car to the top to view the ruins of to come and go as they please. operate up to 10 flights per day from towns, from international companies countryside on horseback. King Herod’s fortress. Next, drive to the From above: dolphinreef.co.il Atlanta, Los Angeles, Miami and New Avis, Budget, and Hertz. Dead Sea for a mud mask and to float Beit Guvrin; • Check out the brand new shark pool Day 4 Haifa & Akko your stress away in the salty water. caves, Old Jaffa at Coral World. coralworld.co.il Drive to Akko and tour the amazing underground crusader city. Next, drive Day 3 Mitzpe Ramon to Haifa and view the beautiful Bahai Drive through the Negev to the Ramon Gardens, and enjoy the spectacular views Crater for jeep safaris, cycling, and camel from Carmel Mountain. rides. Tour one of the local wineries such as Carmey Avdat, and enjoy the sky at Day 5 Caesarea night on an astronomy tour. Head south along the coast to Caesarea to tour this ancient port, learning about Days 4 & 5 Jerusalem its history and enjoying the scenic views. Start at Shiloach Pool, walking up the narrow tunnel that used to be under the Days 6 & 7 Tel Aviv Second Temple Road to Temple Mount. Head to Tel Aviv to explore the shops, After exploring the tunnels, tour New restaurants, markets, beaches, and Jerusalem, visiting Yad Vashem (home to nightlife of this cosmopolitan city — and the Holocaust Museum), then the Israel

be sure to stroll around Old Jaffa(p6) . Museum to view the Dead Sea Scrolls. IMAGES: IMAGES; AWL GETTY

26 Destination Israel israel.travel israel.travel Destination Israel 27 Israel Government Tourist Office israel.travel