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Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Israel & the Palestinian Territories

& THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES © LonelyPlanetPublications the Palestinian Territories & Israel 270 that thisspeckoflandleaves youwith longafter you’ve left. around you.Mostsurprisingare nottheopinionsyou’llbebombardedwith, buttheeffects So cleartheslate. Then plungein,stay informed,askquestionsandlisten tothevoices upduringalifetimeceptions picked ofmediaexposure are boundtoleave youoffbalance. travel bothsafe andeasytoexplore itssites andcommunewithitspeople. modern state ofIsrael,developed fortourismandequippedwithstringent security,makes matching anywhere Eastare elseintheMiddle enoughforatripintheirownright.The Fascinating archaeological sites, awealthofnaturalbeautyspots andaculturaldiversity future,present butthere anduncertain ismore thanwhatmeetstheinternational headlines. ofChrist. the birthplace Land oftheJews,lastplacetouchedbyMohammedonhisjourney toHeaven, and law, ethicsandreligion. Andformany,it’saspiritualcentre It’s thelandofBibleandTalmud, stillconsidered bymillionsasthebasisofWestern quented byheadsofstate, eacharmedwithideastoprevent thatevent fromoccurring. modern worldtodayastheyhave forthepastoneortwomillennia. New Jersey,thebiblicallandsofJudeaandSamariabearasmuch significanceforthe A tinyfingeroflandhugging the eastern Mediterranean, nobiggerthan the USstate of Israel, orPalestine dependingonyourpolitics,defiesthelogic thatsize equalsimportance. FAST FACTS Your religious, culturalandpolitical baggageisbestleftathome–anymilitantprecon- Israel andthePalestinian Territories mayberenowned fortheirmystical past,disputed The samelandthatStJohnpredicted wouldhostArmageddonistodaythelandfre-

and the WestBank 3.8million. Population Official name US$1 =4.68NIS;€1 = 5.52NIS Money Languages Country code Capital the WestBank6220 sqkm Area (State ofIsrael) 20,770sqkm;GazaStripand new Israeli shekel (NIS); newIsraelishekel (disputed) Hebrew andArabic 6.9million; GazaStrip MedinatYisra’

x 972 par excellence: thePromised CLIMATE &WHENTOGO HIGHLIGHTS www.lonelyplanet.com of Genesis, God had promised thatthere,of God had promised Genesis, Nile Valley forwork. According tothe Book of the patriarch Abraham) migrated to the (descendants of Israel, grandson its empire, and inaperiodof famine,the aspartof claimedCanaan 2800 BC, ously strainsthebiblical timeline.) Around son of of Noah diluvialfame,but thatseri- –thatis,descended fromShem, the Semitic were Canaanites thatthese (It’sbelieved BC. Mesopotamia asearlythe20thcentury productive areas coastal fromArabiaand whohadmigratedbly theCanaanites, tothe andtheGazaStripwereWest Bank proba- The first of inhabitants modernIsrael,the HISTORY accommodation pricesdoubleortriple. publictransportislimited and close, nesses holidays (see p350 whenbusi- fordetails) visiting IsraelduringtheJewish religious Climate Charts, See p643 . Ifpossible,avoid as 30°Cto40°Cbelowthedaytime highs. –temperaturesdeserts maydropasmuch and –especiallyinthehighlands the evenings temperatures of 45°Caren’t uncommon. In months inJulyandAugust,when daytime to October)ishotanddrywiththepeak lands, includingJerusalem. Summer(April areasin coastal snowinthehigh- andeven plentyof rainandcooltemperaturessees winteryear, although (November toMarch) a enjoy Territorieswarm Mediterranean climate formuch of the Palestinian the and Israel Nakhal Gishron Nakhal leisurely hiking,cyclingandskiing. naturalbeauty,with scopefortacular GolanHeights The on water. of healthrestoration andarelaxing float lures withpromises theDeadSea Earth, DeadSea The bestnightlife. East’s caféculturea fantastic andtheMiddle metropoliswith modern, European-styled for millennia. wonders thathave drawingpilgrims been with architectural, historicalandspiritual Jerusalem Israel NationalTrail. sceneryalongthe to magnificentdesert ( p297 ) Jerusalem’s antithesis,a ( p283 ) TheHolyCity,bursting ( p327 ) Atthelowestspoton ( p336 thebeaten track ) Off ( p326 ) Anarea of spec- ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Highlights of the12sonsof Israel. the12tribesofbetween Israel–descendants Atthispoint,thelandswere divided Land. the JordanRiver backintotheirPromised reported bytheBookof andacross Exodus) Israelites theSinai(as for40years through ledthedescendants of Moses the tury BC, Sometimearoundthe13thcen- servitude. forcedthe‘migrantworkers’ into Ramses a periodof prosperity inexile,thepharaoh Israel wouldbemadeagreat nation.After ’s sonSolomon builttheFirst Temple. Jerusalem. There, in the10thcenturyBC, conqueredand eventually thecity-stateof hero whenhekilledthePhilistine supported KingDavid, whobecamealocal Ishbaal assuccessor,butthetribeof Judah death, someIsraelites supported hisson tribes underoneking,.Upon Saul’s super iority, consolidated theirdisparate tes, threatened bythe ’ political present-day andGaza. TheIsraeli- government acoastal established between tion knownasthePhilistines arrived and serious political implications. serious where archaeology and scholarship have claims made. This isapartof theworld requestioned, reinterpreted andfresh aremillennia-old events being constantly or Gazarefugeeday WestBank camp,and as much abattleground asanypresent- thehistoryofHowever, theregion isjust Around 1200 BC, the Semitic civilisa- theSemitic Around 1200BC, This isatleastone version of history. LONELY INDEX PLANET MUCH? HOW Shwarma Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofMaccabee beer Litre ofbottledwater Litre ofpetrol Museum admission City busticket Internet connectionperhour 50NIS Dorm bedinguesthouse Newspaper 15NIS 8NIS 5.4NIS 5.3NIS 15NIS to20NIS 25NIS to40NIS 6NIS 18NIS 25NIS to 12NIS

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Israel &The Palestinian Territories 272 ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIANTERRITORIES Al-Arish M EDITRAN ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES ( Sina) E GYPT Khan Yunis S EA Gaza National Park Sde DovAirport Ashdod Ein Rishon LeZion TEL AVIV

M a k t e s h Be'ersheva (1035m) Mt Har Ramon Kiryat Ramon Mitzpe Gat Taba Border Crossing Boker Sde Khadera Tirat Karmel

Wilderness Atlit Junction National Airport Ra'anana Ovda of Zin

Timna R a m o n Park Airport International Ben Gurion National She'arim JERUSALEM HaNikra THE Akko National Park Mamshit Bethlehem Beit Rosh Megiddo Mt Carmel Aqaba Park Arad Hai-Bar Arava Wildlife Area Gerizim Tel al-Fahm Yotvata (881m) Tyre Um Biblical Neve-Zohar Mt Mt Ebal (940m) Arad Herodion Nablus Musa Nebi Jericho Karmi'el Beit She'an Afula Petra Tsfat Sea Dead L EBANO Galilee

JordanRiver Sea of Rosh Pina Kerak River Metulla THE GOLAN Ein Gev HEIGHTS Maan Mt Hermon Irbid (2224m) Quneitra www.lonelyplanet.com 40km 20miles 0 0 AMMAN J ORDAN DAMASCUS Mafraq S YRIA Deraa Jews inPalestine. thecontroversial However, ahomeland forthe laration, which promised Dec- British cabinet announced theBalfour it hadtotake InNovember astance. 1917 the determined andrioting, Britain fighting among theArabs of , sparking of Haifa andJaffa causing unrest hadbeen ing numbers of Jews arrivingatthe ports sphere of influence(see p43 ). The increas- intotheBritish of landspassed WWI, these a partof theOttomanEmpire. Inthewake ing theirwayto Palestine, which wasthen inIsrael. state intheirultimatefollowing year pursuit of a the Zionistsaccepted butthenthrew outthe land. In1903Londonoffered Uganda, which surface’ where Jews ahome- couldestablish resolved to‘findasmall pieceof theEarth’s onist Congress ,which inBasel, year heorganised thefirst International Zi- inEurope.further persecution Thefollowing theirownhomelandorrisk had toestablish his 1896book trian journalistTheodore Herzl in surmised really stoked actionuntilAus- intoserious of temple). Buttheideawasnever thesecond uttered beingaphrase rusalem’ sincethe fall to theirancestralhomeland(‘nextyearinJe- the 7thcenturyuntil20thcentury. from soonafter theascendancyof Islamin formed themajority of inhabitants Palestine scendants of the Philistines ornot,Arabs turies of occupancy.Whethertheyare de- that thelandistheirs bydivineright. ings) that‘Godgave IsraeltotheJews’, and onOldTestamentIsraelis claim(based writ- Taking thisperspective toitsextreme, some and, before that,totheruleof the12tribes. back tothekingdomsof SolomonandDavid onahistoricallineage stretchingIsrael based tolive the right inthelandsnowknownas scent fromthePhilistines). Many Jews claim tribes’) andthePalestinians (who argue de- remnants of thescattered Diasporaor‘lost the Jews tobethetribeof and (said Judah conflictbetween modern MiddleEastern political agendas. beingreinterpretedstantly tofitcurrent p57 are), andmillennia-oldevents con- era canbeconsidered absolute fact(see www.lonelyplanet.com Waves of Jewish immigrantsbeganmak- For centuriesJews dreamed of returning The Palestinian oncen- claimisbased Fast-forward a few years, thousand tothe Few accountswritten priortotheRoman Der Judenstaat thattheJews ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••History Kingdom totheSharif of Mecca. two years earlier,which guaranteed an Arab White Paper forArabIndependence,signed perspective itcontradicted the McMahon extent of thishomeland,andfromanArab determinedor document never thestatus in thedeathcampsof . Eastern lion of themchildren) murdered hadbeen the endof WWII,sixmillionJews (1.5mil- sidered therootof the world’sproblems.By terminating theJewish race,which hecon- dream of a Third Reich establishing andex- aboutfulfillinghistwofold andset for aJewish thananyotherfactor. state Holocaust thatdidmore tocreate thehope an international city.Ironically,itwasHitler’s Arab andJewish andmake states, Jerusalem UN, which voted topartitiontheregion into British decidedtoturntheissueover tothe a Europeanproblem.InFebruary 1947the thebruntof as ing tobear whattheysaw felt more ever threatened andresented hav- of Herzl’s Zionistdream. Palestinian Arabs knowing nowmore theimportance thanever vivors moved toBritish-controlledPalestine, fire wasdeclared. (Israeli army)helditsgrounduntil acease- with armsfromCzechoslovakia, the Tsahal Jordan, IraqandSyriainvaded,but backed broke out.Thecombined armiesof Egypt, ofthe independentstate Israel,andwar from Palestine in1948;theJews declared andwithdrewits handsof the wholeaffair Arabs rejected washed Britain itoutright. where soldiers droppedtheirweapons. border withJordanlargely onthebasisof nian control.A‘’determined the underJorda- mandate andtheWestBank state, leaving theGazaStripunderEgyptian the forthe next50 years. the Middle East that wouldhaunt gees, causing aninstability they offer amnestyto the Palestinian refu- engaged in dialoguewith Israelnorwould But Arabgovernments(Jerusalem)!’ neither Arafat’s rallyingcry: ‘NextyearinAl-Quds to return wouldbelater withYasser echoed non, JordanandEgypt. ThePalestinian desire return), andbecame refugees inSyria, Leba- of would becomea symbol fortheirright keys (their house and landdeeds fighting In the 1930s Adolf Hitler rose topower in In the1930sAdolfHitlerrose Hundreds of of thousands Holocaustsur- While theJews the accepted theproposal, An armisticeof 1949 delimited theJewish Hundreds of of thousands Arabsfledthe

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES tled Jewish extremist on 4November 1995. ofsassination Yitzhak by adisgrun- Rabin backonceagain withtheas- was set Bank, troop withdrawal frommost of theWest (Party of God)insouthern . withHezbollahthe continuedconfrontation the disputed GolanHeights, not tomention fractious relationship with ,centred on across theArabworld. Addedtothatwasa the fourmillionPalestinian refugees spread were of thestatus Jerusalem and thefuture of tobehashedout,notleast ofdetails which actly solid,andthere remained quite afew andArafatwasn’tex- Rabin trust between Arafat ostensibly atthehelm. Authority rule(see opposite ), withYasser wereWest Bank handedover toPalestinian As aresult, theGazaStrip andmostof the lawninWashington,DC. the White House turely) Nobel Prize–winninghandshake on minister Yitzhak madetheir(prema- Rabin leader Yasser ArafatandtheIsraeliprime resulting inmutualrecognition. Now, PLO forsome18monthssecret talks inNorway, holding that IsraelandthePLOhadbeen little fruituntilnewsbroke inAugust1993 sympathy forthePalestinians. did agreat dealtoresurrect international news worldwideonTV sulting images seen well-equipped Israelisoldiers andthere- pitted stone-throwingArabyouths against but in1987theintifada(popularuprising) ing thePalestinians fortheirruthlessness, of theworldwatched inhorror,condemn- to international attention. Initially,much thePalestiniancampaign brought plight eration Organisation (PLO),aterrorist spearhead of Yasser Arafat’s Palestine Lib- by therest of theArabworld. and Israel–forwhich Egypt wasostracised Egypt between peace ment, which brought resulted David Agree- inthe1978Camp oftain itsdefences. negotiations Subsequent Yom KippurWarof 1973leftIsraellesscer- defeats inthe early and theSinai.However, with itsoccupationof Gaza theWestBank, six daysof Israelhadtripledinsize fighting, strike againstSyria,JordanandEgypt. After a move thatendedwithIsrael’spre-emptive with Egypt’s blockadeof theStraitof Tiran, 274 Any progress forward, such astheIsraeli Despite theWashingtonshow,mutual tofollowappearedThe peacetalks tooffer During the1970sand’80s,under Tensions cametoaheadagainin1967 ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••History Palestinian prisoners from Israelijails. August 2005and the release of hundreds of townsin from Gaza andfourWest Bank including thewithdrawal of Jewish settlers encouraging steps, and tookseveral talks ian Authorityand Israelicabinetresumed ported ‘RoadMap forPeace’, thePalestin- at asummitforpeace inSharm el-Sheikh. hands withhisnew Palestinian counterpart stretched backmore than50years, shook incampaignsthat to hisstrong-arm tactics Sharon, knownas‘thebulldozer’inreference Mazen). Three months after Arafat’sdeath, PLO bureaucrat Mahmoud Abbas (akaAbu change thatfell ontheshoulders of longtime November 2004. inaParisunknown disease on11 hospital realised thisachievement,never dyingof an time of he foranindependentstate, fighting was tobeArafat’sswansong;despite a life- suffered Butthewar US$14billioninlosses. andthePalestiniantry collapsed economy economy suffered too:Israel’stouristindus- state amongEuropeangovernments. The were threatening tomake Israelapariah tional moraleasSharon’s hardballtactics na- . Theintifadawasalsotaxing 3500Palestiniansat nearly andover 1000 to full-scaleaerialandgroundassaults. dozing Palestinian homesanddragnet arrests Force (IDF)aggression thatranged from bull- Palestinian andIsraelDefence suicideattacks best. Blowswere exchanged intheformof Sharon andArafatgotdowntowhattheydo peace andthecreation of aPalestinian state, oftinians continuedtosupportthecause thestorm. lead themthrough ers gottheirchance Sharon theychose to fully fledged intifada,andwhenJewish vot- Within months grew thefighting intoa a controversial visittothe Temple Mount. Israel’s Defence Minister Ariel Sharon paid a fever of pitch inSeptember thatyearwhen Meanwhile, tit-for-tat violenceescalated to port byIsraelandmuch of theArabworld. in 2000,wasrejected by Arafat despite sup- Wye IIAccord),brokered byBillClinton solution(knownasthefor atwo-state whenadeal came toanultimate collapse years ofseveral negotiationsthat stalled Encouraged by the internationally sup- Arafat’s passingsparked amoodfor By late 2004thenumberof deaths stood While mostmoderate IsraelisandPales- marked death thebeginningofRabin’s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com trademark keffiyeh – asPalestine’strademark keffiyeh most prolific leaderin itslongstanding fight forfreedom. Chairman’s seat,they’dstillrather remember theimage ofYasser Arafat –hisscragglybeard and ians compared tothelegacy thatheleftbehind. Despite hisyearsofmismanagement in the the pedestrian(liver disease orblooddisorder)tothemore sensational(AIDS orpoisoning). compound.was interred athisRamallah and diedinaParis hospital. from anassassin’sbullet buthisownfailinghealth;inNovember 2004heslipped intoacoma fire. prisonerofIsraelitanks andmortar 40-year warended,thoughnot His compound, avirtual and youhave mademeone’. ‘great man’,towhichClintonresponded: ‘MrChairman,Iamnotagreat man.Iamafailure, led toasecondintifada. to sealthedealandinendrejected Clinton’sbestoffer in2000,adecisionthatultimately thankstoaUS$100,000-a-monthallowancefromthePA.took onlegendaryproportions, organisation, butduringthesecondintifadasheretreated toParis where hershopping sprees Daoud Tawil. diligentlyinGazatoestablishanaid Suha,30yearsyoungerthanArafat,worked despite risingcompetitionfromthe IslamistgroupHamas. business empire (mostlybuiltonthelargesse offoreign governments), Arafatstayed incontrol conferences. Bygreasing thepalmsofhisallieswithmillions ofdollarsmadefromasecret to oscillate betweenreconciliation andterror –fundingsuicidebomberswhileattending peace Gaza undertheauspicesofnewlycreated Palestinian Authority (PA). Here Arafatcontinued peace.UN whenhehadtocheckhisgunatthedoorbefore talking light, andresistance leaderinfrontofhispeople. These twosidesoften collided,notablyatthe of atwo-state solution. byexplicitlyrecognisingand in1988Arafatchangedtactics Israelandacceptingtheprinciple decamped toanewbaseinTunisia. These setbacksbroughtaboutamore conciliatorytone leading toIsrael’s1982invasionandoccupation.Ontheverge ofcollapse,Arafatandthe PLO mini state withinastate. There toothePLOpresence proved disastrousforthehostcountry, known as‘BlackSeptember’. The PLOwasforcedtoseekrefuge inLebanon where it created a frontation culminated inthe1971massacre ofPalestinian refugees, anincidentthatbecame world’s attention tofocusonthePalestinian started cause. 1972 MunichOlympics,andtheassassinationofUSambassadorCleoNoela yearlater, thatthe of11Israeliathletes atthe East.But itwasnotuntilthekilling ings inIsraelandtheMiddle Organisation (PLO). (meaning ‘Conquest’),whichlater joinedwithothergroupstoformthe Palestine Liberation ian youthdecidedtogoitalonebyformingthefirstPalestinian resistance group–Fatah statesman. long career thatwouldevolve fromstudentdissidenttorevolutionary andterrorist andfinally, toahanded toEgyptian militaryleaderGeneral Neguib backin1953.Itwasanominousstart ‘Don’t forget Palestine’ wasthesimplepetition,written inblood,whichayoungYasser Arafat YASSER ARAFAT &THEPLO The cause of Arafat’spassing is, ofcourse,less aconcerninthe eyes ofordinaryPalestin- No officialstatement hasbeenmadeon thecauseofArafat’sdeath,butrumours rangefrom Israel deniedArafat’s request tobeburied inJerusalemand,after lying instate inCairo, he When thesecondintifadahititsstride, ArafatfoundhimselfundersiegeinhisRamallah exchangefollowing thecollapseofWyeIIdeal,ArafatcalledClintona In theirparting Arafat’s signingoftheOslopeaceaccords wonhimaNobelPeace prize, buthewasnever able In 1992Arafatsecretly marriedhiseconomicsadvisor,a Palestinian-Christian namedSuha Negotiations paved thewayforPLOleadershipto set upshopintheWestBankand From thenonArafatattempted toplay thedualroleofstatesman intheinternational spot- PLO militancywasalsoagrowingthreat Husseinandtheresulting toJordan’sKing con- ofsabotage,murderandhijack-In themid-1960s,PLObeganacampaignofbrashacts The petition,though,hadlittleeffect Palestin- andfive yearslater Arafatandlike-minded ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••History

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES lasting impactonthestillfragilepeace plan. insmallnumbersor Arab,even –canhave a violence onthepartof extremists –Jewish to decidethefate of theconflict.As ever, ance itmaynotbeuptothemainstream them. Butwithpeacestillhanginginthebal- on nomic andemotionaltollithaswrought visibly tired of war and theenormouseco- livinginthebigger cities,are mainly those leading Fatah partyinlocalelections. Hamas andIslamicJihadrolledover the The formertookabeatingin2005when public opinionof bothAbbas andSharon. The lackof significant progress hassoured both sidesstilloccur,despite the‘ceasefire’. from andIsraelis,as attacks addedstrainforordinary has onlycaused period Jerusalem.tantly, Thewait-and-see refugees, water, borders andmostimpor- issueslike that wouldfinalise settlements, lamic JihadandHamas, fearing acivil war. but sofarthePA hasrefused toconfrontIs- for Abbas groups, rogue militant todisarm text, p340 ). Sharon hasrepeatedly called troversial Fence’ theboxed ‘Security (see andIsraelcontinuestobuilditscon- Bank intheWest hasstalled disengagement 276 Mainstream IsraelisandPalestinians, talks finalstatus hasputoff The stalemate Yet thepathtopeacemoves slowly.IDF Non-violence. Alsosee for relatives inIDFattacks andsuicidebombings. killed theatrical stagesof Tel Aviv andJerusalem. resistance. themesoftolerancedirected Likewise, atJewishaudiencesare playedoutonthe the WestBankand Gaza,inthehopeofshowingPalestinians thepositive effects ofnonviolent 1982 film envoy’ totheUN,gave aclinicataninterethnic footballleague. leagues.theatre InMay2005football superstarRonaldo,aspecial‘peace groupsandsports tolerance andunity.InIsraelchildren are alsobroughttogetherforArab-Jew danceclubs, SesameStories,inbothArabicandHebrew programmeslike language, focusonethnickids speciallydesignedwhere asatoolforintegration anddialogue. theplaygroundserves OnTV, education’ programmespromotingpeace amongtheyoungestmembersofsociety. as it’sknownhere, streets notnecessarilybeingthesafest ofplaces)is justoneofseveral ‘re- Snuffleupagus whoultimately resolve SesameStreet theArab-Israeliconflict. (orSesameStories Abbasstruggletoforge alastingpeace,itmaybeBigBirdandWhile ArielSharonandMahmoud BIG BIRD,PEACE ENVOY worthwhile sourceis theMuseum on the Seam( worthwhile p291 ). and solidarity, ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••TheCulture For more information, checkout www.pinv.org –thewebsite forPalestinians and Israelisfor Some meetfaceto face; theBerethian Circle Families builds dialogueamongfamiliesgrieving Both ArabandJewish adultshave alsousedthefilm andmediaasapathtowardspeace. The The methodforfostering suchtoleranceisbeingdeveloped injointArab-Jewish schools Ghandi

or www.handinhand12.org, awebsite forajoint Arab-Jewish school.Another (translated intoArabic)has beenshowntoPalestinian audiences throughout Givat Haviva

(www.givathaviva.org) to view the world, Israelis still see them- to viewtheworld,Israelisstillsee broken downtotheindividuallevel. to gauge nationallyandcanreally onlybe are more tion andanti-Semitism) difficult flict (nottomentioncenturiesof persecu- 50 years con- of military almostconstant ofraelis. Theeffects theholocaustandover connects thefirst three generations of Is- unifies thenationandgives italinkthat women are drafted attheage of 18,both them inthefaceof danger. gion, andbeliefinZionism,thathasunited path toforge forthecountry, itistheirreli- aboutthebestdiplomatic argue fervently ontheirJewishbased roots.WhileJews may of community –isatribalsense or newimmigrantsfromRussia,Yemen or they Jerusalem Hasidim, Tel Aviv peaceniks, ultra-Orthodox. servative ranges (nonreligious) fromsecular to con- Jewishbecause societyissodiverse, and aboutcharacteristics,generalise mainly it’simpossibleto in theworld.However, ciety are –and uniqueintheMiddleEast As theonlyJewish Israelandits so- state, NationalPsyche The THE CULTURE Despite thisuniquepositionfromwhich The army,towhich mostyoungmenand The onethingthatbindsallIsraelis–be , another organisation promoting peace www.lonelyplanet.com future together isundeniable. the conflictisstretched, of acceptance their Jews which showsthatnomatter howfar approach forbothMuslimsand a fatalistic oftena phrase uttered bythereligious right, gions. ‘It(theconflict)isinGod’shands’ chological bridge acrosscultures andreli- thatcreates itself apsy- all theHolyLand day of mourningforPalestinians. phe. AdayforcelebrationinIsrael,thisis a Territories as Independence Day,knowninthePalestinian This isnomore noticeablethanonIsrael’s ence hasmadepoliticsof equalimportance. forindepend- in theirworldview,thestruggle all theirown.WhileIslamplaysamajor role championships. song contest andtheEuroleaguebasketball example, participates intheEurovision –Israel,for are clearintheculturalsense familyties.Ties through States toEurope guage, totheUnited andconnected closely tech world,proficient intheEnglishlan- are globaltravellers, leaders in thehigh- They European. asbeingessentially selves www.lonelyplanet.com prestige onpar withtheir European coun- ismoresalem cautiousand conservative. Aviv andothercities, their lifestyle inJeru- and lesbians live an openlifestyle inTel work duringShabbat. Similarly,whilegays rules andavoid dietary anyformof observe are strict kosherlaws–they maintaining theJerusalemon Fridaynights, Orthodox WhileTelaffairs. Avivans are outclubbing mitments, are more involved withdomestic relatively large familiesandreligious com- stressfulwise positionintheMiddleEast. leisure activitiestake theedge offanother- lot: sports,outdoorpursuits, travel andother of theoutdoors have madethemanactive is US$20,800.New-found wealthandalove ence of GDP individualfamilies–percapita omy hashelpedtoincrease theindepend- suburban existence. AboominIsrael’secon- two-cars-in-the-garage, white-picket-fence temporary Israelishave converted to a community life onthekibbutz, manycon- the principlesof socialismandtheshared mostofAlthough Israelwasfoundedon Daily Life For Palestinians orIsraelis, it isabove Palestinians have anationalpsyche that’s Israeli women enjoy afreedom and Orthodox Jews, bythenature of their Al-Naqba, theGreat Catastro- ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••TheCulture remarrying. topreventband theright hisex-wife from divorce lawsthattechnically give ahus- Most troublingforfeminists are obsolete of inequality still existsintheworkforce. andalevel domestic violenceisontherise Meir). But anumberof challenges remain: tries toelectafemale primeminister, Golda politics. (Israelwasoneof thefirst coun- and cant rolesintheeconomy,military terparts andhave historicallyplayedsignifi- month during the second intifada. month duringthe second was destroying120 Palestinian per houses a luxury–intheGazaStripalone, theIDF days, home isbothovercrowded and poor. These 7.5 children perwoman),thePalestinian birthrate (around 60%), andaspectacular rate of around30%(in someplacesover flict simmering.Withanunemployment done much tokeep theArab-Jewish con- thathas US$1100), atroublesomestatistic Israeli (anannualper-capita incomeof just ing to finda better future. andtheir fieryfaith, hop- Islamic militants and more people are turningtowards the the Palestinian Authority fadesaway, more and school), but inrecent years, as trustin Jews (womenare encouraged togowork have proven nomore religious thansecular them tomosque. Traditionally, Palestinians hungry forahomeland itishasalsodriven Palestinians farlessthan theaverage earn While poverty maykeep Palestinians tian andMuslimArabs. Arabs outlinedon p26 applytobothChris- handswithwomen. should avoidshaking hands; inPalestinian communities,men in Israel,Jewishrabbisdon’tusuallyshake unless invited byalocalresident. should avoidtheseareas duringShabbat, covers theirarmsandlegs,outsiders Women mustwearmodestclothingthat rusalem neighbourhoodofMe’aShe’arim. areas,through Orthodox such astheJe- people–orevenwith Orthodox walking due care when interacting shouldbetaken similar tothatfoundinsouthernEurope, While mainstream Israelisocietyisquite CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS Cultural guidelinesforinteracting with isacommon greetingWhile ahandshake any homehasbecomesomethingof

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES many still carry a Jordanian passport. many stillcarrya Jordanianpassport. all intents although stateless, andpurposes, andGazacitizensare, West Bank stands, for asa‘Jewishand negatingitsstatus As state’. it thereby endingtheJewish majority inIsrael ing Israelicitizenshipto3.8million Arabs, had theydonesoitwouldhave meantgiv- attemptedIsrael never areas; toannexthese are iswhy Muslim.Thisfact,manybelieve, and Gazaisaround3.8million,90% of whom will besubjecttoasimilarfate. (whonumbersome280,000) settlers Bank and, intime,it’slikely that20%of West forced tomove fromtheir homesin2005 wereprocess. Some9000Gazansettlers cost. Theobviousriskinthisisthe peace reasons, offer excellenthousingatalow residence which, forobvious insettlements increase from20%to30%. report thatin20years theArabminoritywill the growingArabpopulation;demographers askeeping upwith workforce isasimportant asolid forthemoment,maintaining cause, that are aseconomictheyare political,be- move toIsrael.It’samove withovertones to youngRussianandAmericanJews who age immigration–offering cashincentives the Israeligovernment continuestoencour- ing agrowthrate of just1.2%.Forthisreason proven mediocre inchild production,sport- intheworld(see highest p277 ), Israelishave any Jew whorequests it. ship (andtheaccompanyingbenefits)to the of others, allof whomhave taken advantage Syrian, EthiopianandIraqiJews, among kenazi toJerusalem. Otherarrivalsinclude ites toTel Aviv, andultra-Orthodox Ash- to Haifa, MoroccanstoTiberias, Yemen- ments havetheentranceof Russians seen nomic opportunitiesandspiritualcommit- a meltingpotfortheJewish faithful.Eco- as For more than50years Israelhasserved Population 278 Football crosses cultural boundaries, and Football crosses ism among their fans isnot uncommon. FC hasthe biggest followingand hooligan- Jerusalem cities across thecountry. Beitar with a number of clubsrepresenting various Football (soccer) isthenationalobsession, SPORT The Arab population in the West Bank The ArabpopulationintheWest Bank Many of thenewlyarrived Jews take But whileArabbirthrates are someof the ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Sport law,which gives fullcitizen- act and dress modestly, covering upexposed curls). Hasidic women, like Muslim women, collared white shirts, beards,and identified bytheirblackhats, longblackcoats, sidim (Haredim) ultra-Orthodox Jews, easily piousness, themost religious beingtheHa- nerstone of Jewish study. make uptheteachings thatformthe cor- laws of theTorah,written aroundAD 200), along withtheTalmud on the (commentary of theOldTestament (thepropheticbooks), theft, murderandidolatry.Theremainder issueslikefundamental theprohibition of 613commandments,which covercontains five booksof theOldTestament. TheTorah have recorded hislawintheTorah,first mankind. As people’,Jews God’s‘chosen Godandtherestas aconduitbetween of kosher forPassover, tend tobeoverlooked. like keeping the finerdetails, businesses ensures nobreaching of Jewish law, although – arm –theMinistryforReligious Affairs onJudaism.Aspecialgovernmentis based downtothenational anthem, cation, right from thejusticesystem, holidaysandedu- state are inIsrael,soeverything notseparate 5%.Church and Christians andothersects with Muslimsmakingup15%of and thetotal Around 80%of Israel’spopulationisJewish, RELIGION to-back championships in2004and2005. titlesincludingback- EuroLeague several also enjoyedinternational success,winning country’s bestclub,Tel Aviv Maccabee has of andAmericanimports.The localtalent and professional teams are acombination of andHongKong. initsopening-roundgroupahead second debut intheWorldCupqualifiers, finishing in Europe. In2002itmadeasurprising it isgroupedinAsia whileIsraelisgrouped inqualifyingmatches ball squad,although to ‘NoArabs,nogoals’. Jewish from‘NoArabs,noterrorism’ right gested changing thepopularsloganof the ber of (Israeliparliament)sug- theKnesset 2005 WorldCupqualifiers, anArab mem- scoredBadir key forIsraelduringthe goals strikersAfter star Abbas SuanandWalid ArabsplayonIsrael’snationalside. several Judaism includes several sects of sects varying Judaism includes several Jewish thatJews doctrinestates exist Basketball favouriteis thesecond sport Palestine alsohasitsownnational foot- www.lonelyplanet.com peyot (side (side to share their stewardship. sites, frequently and disputes arise over how alsolayclaim tovariousholy and Protestants menians, Copts,Assyrians, RomanCatholics Church of theNativity.The Ar-Bethlehem’s Holy Sepulchre andalarge proportionof more thanhalfof Jerusalem’s Church of the thodox Church, which hasjurisdictionover The balanceof powerlieswiththe Greek Or- sites are administered byoverseas churches. remains relatively small, andmostof theholy the Islamicfaith,see p53 . of promises peace.with false Formore on found ready ears disenchanted amongthose is Gaza,where Islamicgroupshave militant ate Muslims,thestrongest centre of Islam historically Palestinians have moder- been Jacob Although andMoses). andJoseph ancestors (Adam,Noah,Abraham, Isaac, pelah inHebron) aswellprophets and Mount inJerusalem andtheCave of Mach- and Judaismshare holysites (theTemple more of atraditionthancommandment. www.lonelyplanet.com kippa Jews, andOrthodox, bothSecular weara hair andskin(excepthandsface).Many Despite itsoriginsin Israel, Christianity of theircommonroots,Islam Because his predecessors, asiscustomaryofChabadRebbes. could wieldmore influenceover theworldwideJewishcommunity,aswellvisitgraves of because itishalachicallyforbiddentoleave Israeluponentry.Bystayingoutsideofhe theory thatledtomuchcontroversy community. within theultra-Orthodox time ofsicknessthatthemanyLubavitchers a believed Schneersonhimselfto betheMessiah, aware ofthismomentousevent. In1992The Rebbesuffered aseriousstroke. Itwasduringthis Messiah wasimminent.FullMessiah pageadsinthe estinian land. for thecapture ofDamascusandCairo; helater toanyreturn voicedstrongobjections ofPal- corporate magnates soughthisblessingandwisecounsel. In thisroleSchneersongathered aworldwidefollowingandeveryone frompoliticalleadersto ‘The Rebbe’,theheadofLubavitch, thatfoundedChabadin1772. sect anultra-Orthodox .across theUSA,Canada, IsraelandNorth Schneersonlater succeededhisfather-in-law as to theUSAandsettledinBrooklyn,where hebuiltuptheChabad empire thatrapidlyspread sight onyourtravels. ManachemMendel Schneerson(1902–94)willsoonbecomeafamiliarunder ablackhat,Rabbi from billboards,flyers,posters andbookmarks. Withhisrightarmraisedandeyesbeaming longbeforeIt won’ttake beardedfellow peeringatyou wonderingaboutaparticular you start THE MESSIAHCOMMETH movement Despite muchencouragementfromhisfollowers,The Rebbenever setfootinIsrael,probably Towards theendofhislife onhisfollowersthatthecomingof Schneersonimparted Schneerson’s ultrarightbeliefs cametothefore duringthe1967SixDayWarwhenhecalled A Ukrainian by birth, Schneersonlater movedA Ukrainianbybirth, toBerlinandthenParis where hejoinedthe (skullcap),generally tobe thought

(www.chabad.org) , aJewishoutreach organisation. DuringWWIIheemigrated ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Arts New YorkTimes ment, foundedinPersia in1844. ofa development a Muslimmysticalmove- the centre faith, of thefast growingBaha’i cially Haifa Haifa andMt Carmel. isalso are mainlyinnorthernIsrael,espe- based shoot of small communities Islam,whose that most work is European instyle.that mostworkisEuropean writers. AstrongAshkenazi influencemeans tions of artists,filmmakers, musiciansand theinspirationfor threehas been genera- conflicts endured – that goal sinceattaining forindependence–andthe Israel’s struggle ARTS making anamefor themselves. ian artists,especially musicians,are slowly ing often meanslessexposure, butPalestin- independence and justice. Alackof fund- of art shares asimilarpassionforfreedom, recent work, translated into30 languages.been Hismost dinary Israeli characters has and settings contemporary fictioninvolving or-whose Israel’s mostcelebrated writer isAmosOz, Literature Smaller faiths includetheDruze, anoff- Not surprisingly,thePalestinian world were thepublic outtomake taken A Tale of Love and Darkness 279

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES sound, listen to a meansof protest. Foramore traditional ofand theuse rap,instead of weapons,as powerful perspective onArab youthculture andGaza, givesIsrael, theWestBank a aboutArab rapin (2005), adocumentary with politicalovertones. raeli punkrockers. look intocomplexissuesconfronted byIs- in the HolyLand film documentary rap forIsraelinationalism.Elizabeth Nord’s political spectrum,SubliminalandShadow About Peace, the Israelicharts withhis hitsingle MookEbroke into estinian state. Rapper of aPal-that singsabouttheinevitability antigovernmentestablishment, funkoutfit Hadagbased Nahash(Snake Fish),ananti- biggest actof themomentisJerusalem- its young,mostlyleft-wingmusicians.The on bandstages andinrecording studiosby Much of Israel’s politicaldialogueis shouted Music laration of Independence. wrote, amongotherworks,Palestine’s Dec- and memberof thePLOin1970she Mahmoud politicalpoet Darwish;ahighly brew. Palestine’s mosteminent lyricist is translated into16languages including He- of literature. Hiswork counterpart censured Palestine foritslack took upthepenin1967whenanIsraeli Arab memberof who theIsraeliKnesset, ting holdof someEmileHabibi, along-time his bestworktodate. childhood thatmanyreviewers are calling (2004), isatouching autobiographyof his 280 is the leaderin thisfield, recently performing on the Roof theatres, coming alongway since on stage byallof Israel’s mainrepertory Unsurprisingly, politics are alsoplayedout &Dance Theatre lem’s appropriately named Lab ( lem’s appropriately named Lab p296 ). testing ground foryoungmusiciansisJerusa- cutting-edgemental, music,anotherworthy inception in1979. has toured inadozenof countries sinceits Palestinian folkmusicanddance groupthat Palestinian hiphopissimilarly loaded Across theGreen Line,it’sworth get- While Tel Aviv may lead thewayinexperi- ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Arts . The Cameri Theatre. The Cameri inTel Aviv while on the right sideof whileontheright the El-Funoun (2005)isaninvestigative Jericho’s Echo: PunkRock The Pesoptimist Slingshot Hip Hop (www.el-funoun.org) Talking Fiddler was , a

tionships between Palestinianstionships between andIsraelis. old Yael Ronon,which challenges therela- women to demand equal rights. women todemandequalrights. Happy Woman, themes, includingthe2004production atre, inJerusalem, based hasalsorunracy al experience. ThePalestine NationalThe- that theactors have drawnfromperson- Palestine, atrical productions,including produced anumberof equallystirringthe- inthe IDF.service mandatory to Israeliswhorefuse toserve life before hisexecution. Thestoryalludes macht duringWWIIandthelastdayof his Jagerstatter’s intheWehr- refusal toserve tion, isthestoryof AustrianfarmerFranz Eyewitness, threat of terrorism andsuicidebombings. scribes howvariouspeoplelive underthe Death inGaza with the deaths of 11 Israeliathletes. the 1972 Olympichostage crisisthatended tember Academy Award–winning film festivals worldwide. is Unmissable have hitthemarket, earningaccolades at about theArab-Israeliconflictmentaries have enjoyedinternational success. someofstages, although itsdocumentaries tinian dramaticcinemaisstilldeveloping shot bytheArabarmy.Meanwhile, Pales- cludes thefirst release of clips documentary a filmaboutthe1967SixDayWar which in- the box office,including recent years hasthere somesuccess at been as OttoPreminger’s classic Hollywood productionsfilmedon-site, such were largely overshadowed by Britishand the youngnation.Post-independence films fundsfor ganda piecesdesignedtoraise pendence theywere mainlyZionistpropa- much international success.Priortoinde- Historically, Israelifilms have enjoyed never Cinema controversial workslike incurs withJews andArabs. travels inIsraelandtheconversations he Dolorosa, Also wellreceived is Overseas, lookoutforDavid Hare’sOverseas, AlKasaba TheatreRamallah-based has One of themore austere documentaries, In recent years aslew of filmsand docu- (1999), a play-by-play account of a series of aseries monologuesandscenes amonologuereflecting onhis anotherfascinatingproduc- (2004), chronicles the lives which challenges Arab www.lonelyplanet.com Six DaystoEternity, Plonter, Milano, One DayinSep- Exodus by29-year- Alive From which de- . Only in . Onlyin Via Via A

natural zones,IsraelandthePalestinian Ter- transforming irrigationschemes. anddesert- bases punctuated bymilitary plainsandwadis, bymountains, ised the country’ssouthernwedge, ischaracter- populatedcentrated. Negev, Thelightly of thepopulationandagriculture iscon- plainwhere coastal but sandy, thebulk the Mediterranean stretches thefertile, Sea border.riba ontheZambia–Zimbabwe stretches from SouthernTurkey Ka- toLake known astheSyrian–AfricanRift),which cally dominated bytheGreat RiftValley (also and thePalestinian Territories are geographi- With an area of nearly28,000 sqkm,Israel ENVIRONMENT Assad’s film fire.and killedbyIsraelitank producer, 34-year-old James Miller,isshot ers, butthenchanges dramaticallywhenits of children beingtrainedasresistance fight- www.lonelyplanet.com spoof onthemusical sion. during thefinal48hours before theirmis- account of two Palestinian suicidebombers Bank Story filled flicks,check outAriSandel’szany people. Totake tension- theedge these off ofeffects itsconstructiononthePalestinian investigation Fence of theSecurity andthe Wall lives. Andthesomewhatmore up-to-date of theOslo Peace AccordsonPalestinian Due toitspositionatthejunctionof three themountain-fringed riftand Between HanyAmong otherdocumentaries, Abu- x plete listofaddresses, either ofthetwomainoffices, contact specialists canprovide wildlife informationon localhikes, andaccommodation.Foracom- also stockscamping andoutdoorequipment. you’ll findoutdoor shops sellingarangeofnature andwildlife publications. The Tel Aviv shop an excellentsourceofinformationfor travellers. At themainofficesinTel Aviv andJerusalem andprotection ofantiquities, wildlifeis charged with theconservation andenvironment, is The GREEN TEAMS x National Parks Protection Authority The numerousnational parksand archaeological sites are managed by the Jerusalem 95463) Jerusalem (2004), by Simone Bitton, is a sensitive (2004),bySimoneBitton,isasensitive The network ofmanagedforests in Israelisoverseen by the government-sponsored Kakal. The SPNIalsorunsfield trips andtours,operates 10fieldschools,where enthusiastic Checkpoint 03-638 8674;4Hashfela St,Tel Aviv 66183). 02-624 4605; 13 Heleni HaMalka St, PO Box 930, Jerusalem 96101) St,POBox930,Jerusalem 02-624 4605;13Heleni HaMalka Society fortheProtection of Nature inIsrael

(2005; www.westbankstory.com) Paradise Now . (1997) discusses the effect theeffect (1997)discusses West Side Story (2005) is a gripping (2005)isagripping ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Environment , a modern , amodern .

( x West West 02-500 5444; www.parks.org.il; AmVe’olamo St, GivatShaul, construction iszonedforafurther 103km. threatened: 56kmare already and urbanised Israel’s 197kmof coastlineisparticularly resources andpoorwaste management. water pollution,over-extension of natural found inmanypartsof theworld–airand haveisation resulted problems inthesame demands onthelandfromincreased urban- project.impact thantheafforestation The land hashadamuch greater environmental nately, theZionists’zealtopopulate the ‘make bloom’.Unfortu- indeed thedesert the peopleof Israel proved thattheycould hewasnuts.But100 years laterthought 10 milliontrees inPalestine, hiscolleagues When Theodore Herzl suggested planting Environmental Issues ibex water atdate palm-shadedwadis. landscapes,while inthesoutherndesert laurelGolden eaglescircledense forests, ottersGalilee, dive streams inhighland and animal life. Upper Inthewet,mountainous ritories supportadiverse wealthof plantand park visitorcentres. andavailablefor oneyear atmostnational for102NIS.It’svalid access ‘Green Card’ tional parks,itsworthinvesting inanall- IfyouplantovisitalotofCaeasaria. na- She’an,Masada, NimrodFortress Beit and large archaeological complexes, including of theprotected areas actuallydoubleas andnoneareBank intheGazaStrip.Many ran NationalParks) are located intheWest Authority, justtwo(Herodian andQum- rael Nature &NationalParks Protection

(SPNI; [email protected]; www.teva.org.il)(SPNI; [email protected]; Of the58nationalparksrunbyIs- or SPNI Jerusalem

SPNI Tel Aviv Israel Nature &

Mp p298; (Map Mp p286; (Map , which

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES political will. on depends asmuch onfinancesasitdoes Whether ornottheplangets theground off totheDeadSea. water fromtheRedSea one plantobuildacanalthatwouldbring solutions have including proposed, been how toreverse theproblem.Anumberof the three sideshave entered on intotalks and Palestine, andinrecognition of this threatens notonlyIsrael,butalsoJordan water level The 20mdropintheDeadSea of itsmainwater source,theJordanRiver. for 30years –thedirect result of overuse which hascontinuedunabated , threatenvironmental isthedryingupof the than amere condimentandwhenprompted, is regarded more as anationalobsession tion of picklesandsauces. , you’llalsobeabletoheaponaselec- pitta, fora6NIS-to-19NISfilled shwarma stands; felafel and low thelocalstopervasive ity fruitandvegetables. Alternatively, fol- range fromanappealing can choose of qual- Israel andthePalestinian Territories, you In thestreet markets andsupermarkets of FOOD &DRINK 282 Israel and the West Bank’s mostobvious Israel andtheWestBank’s you cannottouchbread duringPassover, oranythingthathastouchedbread). it protected fromtheelements, lestsomeroguebreadcrumb kosher, fallsintoitscracks(tokeep week ofPassover, thisspecial‘koshertelephone’ issealedofffortheremaining 51weekstokeep The ultrareligious Orthodox, Jewscall it their ‘Passover Telephone’. Usedonceayear duringthe FOR SALE:THEBREADOFANATION Passover Phone isbutoneofmanyodditiesfacingthevisitortoIsraelduringthisholyweek. from pretzels rightdowntowheat grain. largetarps blanketing ofthe store, sections effectively covering upanyformofbread product, McDonald’s gets into the act too:usingbunsmadefrom, ofallthings,mashedpotatoes.McDonald’s getsintotheact kosher pacifiers. and otherzooanimals alsostaykosherforPassover. on bysucking Jewishbabiesdotheirpart Israel’s milkwon’t have anytraceofgrain.Because theirhandlerscan’ttouchbread, gorillas then (hopefully)sells hisnewfoundwealthbacktothestate whentheholidayisover. sells offallofIsrael’s grainreserves toanon-Jew forafew shekels. This temporary grainbaron can get theirfix. felafel; theresult iscovert tripsto Akko, Nazareth and Jaffa:Arabtowns where felafel addicts violates theno- rule. Tryastheymight, otherfolksimply can’tgoaweekwithout aproper Since beer contains ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TERRITORIES••Food&Drink Is itanextreme formofdevotion?Orisitaclever ploy?However marketing youseeit,the Travellers aislesduringPassover browsingthesupermarket are confronted withhugeplastic Snackers findsoftmatzo(unleavenedSnackers bread) usedinplace ofpitaatfalafel stands. On farmsacrossIsrael,livestock are given kosherfeed forweeksbefore Passover sothat Israel’s Ministry forReligiousIsrael’s Ministry Affairs, responsible forensuringthegrainlockdown, symbolically On theground,everybody hastheirown interpretations of howfarthey’llgowithoutbread. chametz (prohibited elementofsociety thatquickly food) there isacertain Hebrew: tea withspearmint with cardamom.Anotherlocalfavourite is (qahwa bi-hel; orofther instant thegrittyTurkishvariety all over thecountry. isgenerally ei- are freshly andsoldinjuicebars squeezed schnitzel, goulash,liver andgefilte fish. such Europeanfare Eastern as ants serving andtraditionalAshkenazitaurants res taur - res- Chinese typically includesteakhouses, on vegetarian dishes.Meat-oriented places find joyinthelatter, which generally focuses format.Vegetariansdairy, fishandpasta will so they’llhave eitherameatformator kitchen,meat anddairyproductsinthesame 50% lessthanotheroptions. lunch specialthattypicallycosts33%to set ants offer agood-value ‘businesslunch’, a On workdays,mostfullyfledged restaur- tries –kosherandhalalfare isquite similar. coun- tle fromthatinotherMiddleEastern which localjointproducesthebeststuff. cal aboutthevariouskindsof hummusand many IsraelisandPalestinians canwaxlyri- A real treat is thevariety of juices,which kosherrestaurants can’tprepareCertified Much of thebestsit-downfare varieslit- tey imnaana) or inHebrew: (shai bi-naana; . www.lonelyplanet.com kafé turki) or in

Rogov’s growing industry,pickupacopyof Daniel Tzora. Tolearnmore of thewinesinthis Golan,Tishbiwines, includingCarmel, and produces arange of very nicered andwhite during andPesah), thecountrynow winemainlyforceremonial use (eg purposes ish Israelisdrinkvery Israelis little. Although Muslimsdon’tdrinkatalland Jew- servant JERUSALEM www.lonelyplanet.com crucifixion of Jesus. renowned Pontius Pilate, who ordered the of procurators. Itwasthe fifthof the these, and thecity wasthereafter ruledby aseries a massive buildingcampaign inJerusalem, Great asthekingof Judea. Herod launched Herod andinstalled Jerusalem the in63BC, vading armiesuntil theRomansmarched on in- subsequent Power shifted handsbetween Temple’, which wascompleted in515BC. lowed toreturn andreconstruct a‘Second under CyrustheGreat thattheJews were al- thelandbyPersianspushed off anditwas the Jews were exiledintothewilderness. and nian kingNebuchadnezzar in586BC The temple wasdestroyedbytheBabylo- sor, ,builtthegreat First Temple. andhissonsucces- made ithiscapital, KingDavid captured thecity and 997 BC raham offered In asa sacrifice. hissonIsaac where accordingtotheOldTestament set- Ab- Jebusite small tlement, occupiedtheslopesof MtMoriah, a originally Jerusalem, HISTORY –andmostdisputed.est, mostbeautiful fascinating cities,aswelloneof theholi- oneof iscertainly theworld’smost capital, Jerusalem, Israel’sancientandenigmatic x expensive boutique(micro)brew . Territories, butrather youcantrythetasty (in descendingorder).InthePalestinian andNesher,which areGold Star acceptable The nationalbrewery producesMaccabee, peal of asanightlife accompaniment. beer which includesamapof thewineregions. Alcohol isavailable everywhere, butob- After were 50shortyears, theBabylonians These days,younger peoplepreferThese theap- 02 /pop693,000 Guide toIsraeli Wines اﻟﻘﺪس ירושלים ﻟﺪ (TobyPress),

e p40. see today’s OldCity.Formore information, it asAelia which isthebasisof Capitolina, Emperor Hadrian razed thecityandrebuilt Jews were banishedfromJerusalem andthe took theRomansfouryears toquell. The the Temple. inAD132 Revolt ASecond in AD66,resulting inthedestructionof Roman ruleescalated intotheFirst Revolt exandria and Constantinople). exandria andConstantinople). cities (theothers beingAntioch, Rome,Al- was recognised asoneof thefive patriarchal RomanEmpire theEastern through and as acentre of Christian worship spread ofin AD326.Theimportance Jerusalem Church of theHolySepulchre commenced thefirstplaces; mostnotably, workonthe churches holy andbasilicasatopChristian Thissparkedtans. abuildingcampaignof conversion of manylocalJews andSamari- St Helena visited Jerusalem, causingthe mother ligion after EmperorConstantine’s power, Islam. pation, ByzantineJerusalem fell toanew a short-lived Persian invasionandoccu- capitals DamascusandCairo.capitals the result of fromtheimperial itsdistance and economicfortunesfell intodecline, significance toIslam,Jerusalem’s political commemorate Butdespite theevent. its of theRockwascompleted inAD691to miraj the placeassociated withMohammed’s but lostitin1187, toSaladin. tion. TheCrusaders tookJerusalem in1099 fromAraboccupa- to deliver the HolyLand of Western ledaseries Christians Jerusalem. Hence, 1095and1270, between stopped Christianpilgrimsfrom visiting tury Palestine Turks, who fell totheSeljuk inthecity,but11th cen- practise Jerusalem intotheir expanding empire. The in battle near Aleppo, andthereby absorbed Idefeated theMamluksTurks under Selim Islamic learning. In1517 theOttoman architecture andturned itintoacentre of They endowedthe holycitywithmuch fine , whoruledoutof Egypt. of theMamluks, successors toSaladin’s The swellof Jewish discontent with Christianity becametheofficial state re- In 638 AD, however, afterIn 638AD,however, weathering The Umayyad Caliph paidtribute toThe UmayyadCaliph For atimeallfaiths were free tolive and In 1250thecitycame undertheinfluence (ascensiontoheaven) andthe Dome JERUSALEM •• History JERUSALEM ••History

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES east. After theSix DayWar of 1967, Jeru- with Israelon thewest andJordan to the ceasefire, or Green Line,divided thecity, ended, aagain in 1948. Whenthe fighting cision that madethecity abattleground an international enclave inthecity,ade- mans rejected tocreate aBritish proposal bed of ArabandJewish rivalry.TheOtto- their ancestralhomeland. tions of theJewish Diasporatoreturn to toinvite por-the powervacuum seemed landowners, andinthemid-19thcentury century onresulted insquabblesbetween for400years. from city remained Turkishrule underloose Jerusalem 284 Ein Kerem(5km) To HadassahHospital– 4 1 3 2 JERUSALEM Subsequently, JerusalemSubsequently, becameahot- A lackof central authorityfromthe18th ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲ JERUSALEM••Orientation American Colony...... Allenby 2B&B...... SLEEPING Yad Vashem...... Rockefeller Museum...... Museum ontheSeam...... Book...... &Shrineofthe Herzl’s Grave...... Herzl Museum...... Garden Tomb...... MiddleEasternStudies...... Brigham YoungUniversityCenterfor LandsMuseum...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES US Consulate...... Magen DavidMedicalCentre...... Israeli YouthHostelsOffice...... (see24) French Consulate...... British Council...... Abu HassanAlternativeTours...... INFORMATION Nablus RoadOldBusStation...... Eldan...... CentralBusStation...... City BusStops...... Budget...... TRANSPORT Jerusalem Mall...... SHOPPING Kerem Ein A ᝲᝲ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇ Mt Zikaron

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Y'Israel Ammunition

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Mp p286 ; (Map Quarter 5 Salah 1 Hinnon Valley Sultan

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Sul 19 Quarter Jewish St To AtarotAirport(12km); ei Quarter Jerusalem Muslim man Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ x Ramallah (15km); East 0 0 Nablus (67km) x x 625 0155;39JaffaRd;

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Map (p288) See Jerusalem−OldCity Ha'egoz 624 8237;2Ya’Avetz St; ὇὇ ὇὇ ὇὇ ὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ Nahal 623 2758;www Kidron Valley h Mt Scopus Mount ofOliv

Cemetery Jericho Jewish F 8.30am- Hadassah Hospital 0.5 miles

7 Rd Dis (2km) 1 km To Abu 4 1 3 2 e Russian Compoundinthe NewCity. Fire department police Central station Emergency journalists. byauthorsand hosts poetryreadings orlectures Bohemian caféandusedbookshop,thisplaceoften If you are hanging around thecentral bus and in thelobbies of main hotels. several Burger King), inTmolShilshom bookshop Yehudaon Ben St(onthebenches outside carriers can findwi-fiLaptop ‘hotspots’ Access Internet Police First aid on MtZion. the the and ( p291) if timeallows, major sites, includingthe check outthe Continuing southaroundtheOld City, bling over tothe Rockefeller Museum the ( p291), rusalem, touringthe dayyoucouldvisitEastJe- With oneextra Three Days the shopsandcafésofBenYehuda St. Vashem Tower ofDavid ping thedaywithatourof Cardo andthebusy DavidStbefore cap - boxed text, p294 ). including Quarter, places tobreak forlunchintheChristian ulchre can followtothe Dolorosa (StationsoftheCross),whichyou ates oftheVia conveniently atthestart tunnels followed byavisittothe for avisittothe Line up early(around7.30am)ondayone Two Days IN… JERUSALEM Spend daytwoexploringthenewcity’s After lunch,wanderthroughthehistoric ( x Bible LandsMuseum ( x ( p289 ). There are several first-rate 100) ( p291 ). Spendyourevening around ( p289 ). The tunneltourtermin- 101) JERUSALEM ••Information Garden Tomb ( x KingDavid’stomb City ofDavid Shrine oftheBook ( p290 ). Church oftheHolySep- 102) (emergency Mount ofOlives Temple Mount Papa Andrea’s Museum ontheSeam ( p291 ), before am- 21) and (p291) ( p291 ) andthe Israel Museum Western Wall x 20) and, (p290) 100) Nearthe Citadel & (seethe ( p290 ). (p291), ( p289), ( p290) Yad Yad

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ὈὈ ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES laundry services. laundry services. 8NIS; al-Zeit; perhr centre.com; 9thStation,172SouqKhan 12NIS; Freeline minutes) are located onthe4thfloor. Internetstation, terminals (9NISper30 Jerusalem –NewCity(Central) 286 Mike’s Centre Mike’s Laundry Place Laundry 15NIS; St Raphael@Internet Centre Mike’s Café Internet Aqabat al-Khanqah; perhr8NIS; Aqabat al-Khanqah; h 4 1 3 2 JERUSALEM −NEWCITY(CENTRAL) Nahla'ot 8.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, 8.30am-3pm Fri) JERUSALEM••Information Sha'arei Market Yehuda To Mahane Hessed h Ben Yehuda St h

h Agrippas St Agrippas (Map (Map p288 ; 9am-10pm) IntheOldCity, withInternetand 9.30am-4am) Located beside the main post office. 9.30am-4am) Locatedbeside themainpostoffice.

10am-midnight Mon-Sat)

HaNevi'im St HaNevi'im

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Me’ir Sherman St V George King

AC (Map p286 ; Rd Jaffa (Map (Map p288 ; (Map p288 ; (Map (Map p286 ; Garden Nahalat

Shiv'a Hillel St Hillel x

19

(Map (Map p288 per hr ; JaffaGate; 627 1959;8thstation,51 St Agrippas x x 10 x

Rabbi Akiva St 16

31

x Shamai St Even Yisra'el Tmol Shilshom...... Steimatzky...... Steimatzky...... Steimatzky...... SPNI OfficeandBookshop...... Sefer VeSefel...... Main PostOffice...... Laundry Place...... ISSTA...... ISSTA...... Internet Café...... Central PoliceStation...... Amex...... INFORMATION (Independence Park) Ben Hillel St Hillel Ben

622 3377; 31 Jaffa Rd; per hr 622 3377;31JaffaRd;perhr 628 2486;www.mikes Mordechai h 628 2486; www.mikes Gan Ha’Atzmaut

625 7714;12 ShamaiSt; Ya'Avetz St Darom

8 18 Rd Jaffa 10am-midnight) 11 Angelo Strauss Bianchini St 4 6 B ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ Zion

24 Sq 32

29 Bnei

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17 Harav Kook St

Yoel Salomon13 St She'arim 12 HaHavatzelet 20 M'ea Cemetery 23 13 12 11 10 Muslim 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

27 Rivlin Horkanus B3 B3 B3 A3 C3 B2 C3 B3 C2 Agron St St B3 C3 C3 C4 15 22 25

14 Heleni St Village Green...... ...... Ticho House...... King ofFelafel&Shwarma..... El Toro...... Kaplan Hotel...... Hotel Palatin...... EATING Hotel Habira...... SLEEPING Time Elevator...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES

30 St

3133; 7 Himem Gimel St,; 3133; 7 Himem includes an extensive ‘What’s On’ weekend supplement. ‘What’sOn’weekend includes an extensive the listings. OnFriday, source oflocalnewsand events Centre David Medical Magen Services Medical Post Jerusalem Media Council British Libraries 10pm) IntheOldCity. al-Zeit; centre.com; 9thStation,172SouqKhan

Located opposite the Jerusalem Mall. Located oppositetheJerusalem ofDVDs, videosandbooks. Largecollection 10am-1pm Fri) St; Maccabee HaMalka St Shlomzion HaMalka St HaMalka Shlomzion

Cheshin Ben Sira Ben

1 9 St Mounbaz

HaNevi'im St 2

5

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Compound Jaffa Rd Jaffa

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Russian ὈὈ ὈὈ St Koresh

Gruzenberg Mp p286 ; (Map Shoshan 2-7pm Mon-Tue &Thu,11am-4pmWed,

(www.jpost.com) Thisisanexcellent (www.jpost.com) Shloma 28 Beit Yisra'el Old CityMap(p288) See Jerusalem–

22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 HaEmek St HaEmek

Safra

HaMelekh

Sq

Y'Israel B3 B2 B2 A3 B3 B3 A2 B3 B4

Shivtei Zahal St Sq x 200m 0.1miles 0 0 www.lonelyplanet.com Sheruts toTelAviv...... ...... Airlines...... Underground...... Shoshan...... Mike’s Place...... Glasnost...... Zolli’s...... Yankees Bar...... Gong...... DRINKING TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT Mp pp284-5; (Map 640 3900; Agudat Sport 640 3900;Agudat Sport

h Elisha Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

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HaTzanhanim Rd D Gate New Gate Jaffa h x City Old

25 24 23 32 31 30 29 28 27 26

9am-

HaSh Rd 652 alom B3 A3 C3 B3 C4 B3 C2 B3 B3 B3 Post

Christian, Orthodox Jewish and Muslim families. andMuslim Jewish Orthodox Christian, free mapsandcanarrangeinformalmeetingswith Offers buses toCairo. .co.il; Pearl HotelBldg,15JaffaRd)Operatestoursand www.tourism.gov.il; JaffaGate; sites aroundtheOldCity.(Andit’sgotagreat website!) toursofJewish thiscentre organisesfreeheritage, walking an appreciation oftheir St) CommittedtogivingyoungJews x provides informationonthecity’sCatholicsites. noon Mon-Sat)OppositetheentrancetoCitadel; Sq; 2692; fax6286417;OmarIbnal-Khattab Organises inexpensiveflighttickets. poste restante. h Main postoffice Main Post Amex day andremain alldaySaturday. closed cheques. earlyonFri- Note thattheyclose YehudaBen St,willalsochange traveller’s Jerusalem.East Many, especiallyaround fices allover theNewCity,OldCityand the private, commission-free change of- The bestdealsforchanging moneyare at Money Society Orthodox bus station. located approximatelyfiveminutes’walkfromthecentral www.lonelyplanet.com Western Wall; and theChurch of the Holy Jews), the site of theDome of the Rock; the the Haram ash-Sharif (Temple Mountto the Armenian Quarters. Sites of interest include divided into Jewish, and Muslim,Christian Bound by stone ramparts,theOldCityis OldCity The SIGHTS Tours Mazada ISSTA Agencies Travel StudentInformation Centre Jewish Office Tourist Jaffa Gate InformationCentre Christian Information Tourist Orthodox Patriarchate Rd; Orthodox St) Replaces losttravellerscheques. St) Replaces St); welcomes travellers. Society operatesalow-costmedicalanddentalclinicthat theOrthodox Quarter, 1pm Sat)IntheOldCity’sChristian Old City 628 2634, 052 2867795; www.jeffseidel.com; 5BeitEl 628 2634,0522867795;www.jeffseidel.com; 7am-7pm Sun-Thu, Theplacetopickup 7am-noonFri)

(Map (Map p286 ; New City ( x (Map (Map p286 ; Mp p288 ; (Map 621 1888; 4 Herbert SamuelSt,ZionSq) 621 1888;4Herbert Mp p286; (Map x Mp p288; (Map 624 0830; 18 Shlomzion HaMalka 624 0830;18ShlomzionHaMalka h x Mp p288; (Map x 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am- 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, x 625 7257; 31 HaNevi’im 625 7257;31HaNevi’im h x 623 5777;www.mazada (Map (Map p288 ; 624 4745;23JaffaRd 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu) 627 1958;Greek (Map (Map p288 ; x h 627 1422; x 8.30am- 627 Ditch Battle of the Jewish Quarter Museum Quarter Ditch Battleof theJewish alsoincludes the Judaica. TheCardo with expensive giftshops andgalleries of reconstructedbeen asashopping arcade original appearance, whileanotherparthas restoredbeen towhat mayhave its been later, of ByzantineJerusalem. Part of ithas street of theRomanAelia and, Capitolina p8 amsin free; admission p288; the archaeological sites. Themost significantis ing reconstruction anumberof unearthed above buttheexcavations groundlevel dur- in 1967.There are few historicmonuments structed sinceitsrecapture bytheIsraelis almostentirelyish Quarter hasbeen recon- Flattened theJew- duringthe1948fighting, QUARTER JEWISH Walk parts extensivelysince been renovated. The they’ve 1537and1542,although between leyman theMagnificent whobuiltthem The OldCitywallsare thelegacyof Sü- WALLS &GATES the traditionalsite of theCrucifixion. Sepulchre, builtover what’sclaimedtobe fighting herefighting inthe1948war. is stillpocked with reminders of thefierce Jewish Quarter timesand inlate medieval p288 ) becameknown astheGate of the Gate of theMoors), viaZionGate. Jaffa Gate southtoDungGate (alsocalled New, DamascusandHerod’s Gates, and Gate (alsocalledStStephen’s Gate), via city wall–fromJaffa Gate northtoLion’s 4.30pm) was stonedtodeathnearby. Gate after thefirst Christianmartyr,who of , calledStStephen’s has also been first breached Jerusalem’s walls. hereit wasnear in1099thattheCrusaders p288 Jerusalem,) alsofacesArabEast and Jerusalem.bustling East crowded of all thecitygates, opensinto Gate the NewCity.Downhill, New Gate the NewCity.Moving the1887 clockwise, the mainentrancetoOldCityfrom beginning of theoldroadtoJaffa, isnow (Map p288 itwasthe ), sonamedbecause There are opengates. The seven Lion’s Gate Lion’s Gate Cardo (Map p288 ), themostattractive and isa1kmjauntalongthetopof the (Map p288 ) alsogives access from (Map p288 ), themain north–south

(Map (Map p288 ; adult/child16/8NIS; (Map p288 ), facingtheMount h JERUSALEM ••Sights 10am-3pm Sun-Thu, 9am-1pm Herod’s Gate Herod’s Gate Zion Gate Zion Gate Jaffa Gate Damascus h (Map (Map

Ram- 9am- (Map (Map 287 Last

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Jerusalem –OldCity 288 0 300 m 0 0.2 miles

JERUSALEM − OLD CITY -OldCity JERUSALEM••Jerusalem

Jericho

Hel To To Mt Scopus; Nablus Rd East 61 A Garden B Jerusalem C D E Brigham Young F St Handasa Tomb (50m) iman 22 ὈὈ University (1km) Sule Rd HaNevi'im St 46 Sultan ὇὇὇

Rd Lion's Gate...... 28 D1 60 ὇὇὇Muslim Lutheran Church of the 1 Cemetery Muslim Quarter 34 Redeemer...... 29 B2 18 ὇὇὇ Mazada Tours...... 30 A2 Shivtel Y'Israel New Gate...... 31 A2 28 Pillar of ...... 32 D2 New Al-Wad Rd ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Muslim City Souq Khan al-Zeit St Cemetery Pool of Siloam...... 33 C4 Safra 40 ὈὈ St Anne's Church...... 34 C1 ὇὇὇὇ Sq Via Dolorosa St James' Cathedral...... 35 B3

St 36 5 Armenian 50 Haram ash-Sharif/ t Tomb of the Virgin Mary...... 36 D2 47 Church Temple Mount ὇὇὇὇a h Tower of David Museum...... (see 16) HaTzanhanim Rd 3 p a Western (Wailing) Wall...... 37 C2

h 31 ὇὇὇὇s 20 Wohl Archaeological Museum..38 B3 Zahal Helen’s Golden o Sq Aqabat al-Khanqah St 48 19 Gate h Zion Gate...... 39 B4 Christian Cistern e J Quarter 15 7 Dome὇὇὇὇ of 2 f 30 the Chain o 8 SLEEPING y Austrian Hospice...... 40 B1 ὇὇὇὇e ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ l Jaffa Rd 29 ὈὈl Avissar's House...... 41 A4 Mamilla a Mount of Olives 9 56 V Christ Church Guest House...... 42 B3 26 ὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ 4 Bab al-Silsila St Jericho 51 32 Citadel Youth Hostel...... 43 B3 37 See Jerusalem – New City David St Jewish Cemetery East New Imperial Hotel...... 44 B2 44 55 12 ὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ (Central) Map (p286) Habad St El Malak...... 45 B3 49 Rd View Point 1 Jewish Bab 11 Solomon’s Faisal Hostel...... 46 B1 24 43 Quarter 42 al-Magharba ὇὇὇὇Stables ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Golden Gate Inn...... 47 B2 27 54 16 10 38 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hebron Youth Hostel...... 48 B2 53 23 57 58 Syrian 2 ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Al-Aqsa Mosque...... 11 C3 Lutheran Guest House...... 49 B3 6 25

Orthodox HaOphel Rd Cardo...... 12 B2 New Hashimi Hotel & Hostel....50 B2 Patriarchate ὈὈ Armenian ὈὈὈὈὈ 3 Church ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇Church & Monastery of the Petra Hostel...... 51 B2 Dormition...... 13 B4 St Andrew’s Guest House...... 52 A4 45 Dung Gate/ d 35 Church of St Peter in Gallicantu...14 B4 R Gate of the Moors Orthodox ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ ah RdKidron Valley Rd Church of the Holy Sepulchre....15 B2 EATING Armenian hilo To S Talbiyeh Quarter Entrance to Jericho Citadel...... 16 B3 Armenian Tavern...... 53 B3 Ha ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇ the City Coenaculum...... 17 B4 Bonker’s Bagels...... 54 C3 shalayim of David INFORMATION ...... 18 B1 Moses Art Restaurant...... 55 B3

Yeru ὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇὇

Christian Information Centre...... 1 B3 Dome of the Rock...... 19 C2 Papa Andrea’s...... 56 B2 www.lonelyplanet.com St City of om Rd David Tours...... 2 B3 Garden of Gethsemane...... 20 D2 Tzaddik’s New York Deli...... 57 C3 39 Shal David

Sultan's leh Wadi Hilwa St Freeline...... 3 B2 Grave of Oskar Schindler...... 21 B4 ὈὈὈHativat ὈὈὈ 41 Pool Hezekiah's Jaffa Gate Tourist Office...... 4 B2 Herod's Gate...... 22 C1 ENTERTAINMENT Yemin Tunnel Moshe 13 Ma'A Jerusalem Information & Hurva Synagogue...... 23 B3 Beit Shmuel...... 58 A3 Tourism Centre...... 5 A2 Jaffa Gate...... 24 A3 Jerusalem (Alpert) Music

17 Ma'Alot Ir David 4 Rd Jewish Student Information Jerusalem Archaeological Park Centre...... 59 A4 14 Mt Zion im 21 Centre...... 6 B3 & Davidson Centre...... 25 C3 d y 33 R Mike’s Centre...... 7 B2 King David’s Tomb...... (see 17) TRANSPORT n o r Orthodox Society...... 8 B2 Kotel Western Wall Tunnels.....26 C2 Damascus Gate Taxi Ranks & To Bethlehem b e 59 at Yerushala (6km) H Cinematheque St Raphael@Internet...... 9 B2 Last Ditch Battle of the Jewish Bus Station...... 60 B1 Hativ Zion Walking Tours...... 10 B3 Quarter Museum...... 27 B3 Suleiman St Arab Bus Station....61 B1 52 ὈὈὈMenachem Begin Heritage Centre ὈὈ of the the of brick isthemostprominentremnant for controlover thecity. pressive ofa narrowalleywayeast theSqisim- modate users. wheelchair Old Citythatisfullyequippedto accom- Mount asitlooked 2000 years ago. andvirtualtourofpresentation theTemple 5pm Sun-Thu) adult/child30/16NIS; DungGate; .archpark.org.il; Fri) www.lonelyplanet.com fine examplesof district of alleysare narrowmedieval some it’s alsoexhilarating. Clustered aroundthe deniably claustrophobic andhassle-plagued, lated area of theOldCity,andwhileit’s un- popu- This isthemostbustling anddensely QUARTER MUSLIM .org; adult/child18/10NIS) Park &DavidsonCentre the recently renovated daily, butmustbebooked inadvance. Wall. One-hourtours times operate several lows thenorthernextension of theWestern 9am-1pm Fri) x Wall Tunnels www.aish.com/wallcam. live shotscanbeviewedincyberspace at: sible 24hours aday,andup-to-the-minute legs), andtheleftsidetomen.It’sacces- dress modestly,covering theirarmsand sideisopentowomen(whomustright asanopen-airsynagogue;the now serves The area immediately infrontof thewall sorrow over thedestructionof thetemple). (the ‘wailing’moniker stems fromJewish tosupportthetemple esplanade in 20BC is partof theretaining wallbuiltbyHerod only remnant of Judaism’s holiestshrine, sites, plus interpretive displays. Herodianhome andseveral archaeological is known as Stephen’s Gate into theheart of theOld City architectureCrusader inJerusalem. (Map p288 ), perhapsthefinest exampleof Lion’s/St Stephen’s Gate is , which documentsthe1948campaign At Hurva Sq,eastof agraceful theCardo, At Hurva The Jewish Quarter istheonlypartof the On thesouthernsideof theWestern Wall, A Jerusalem isthe highlight e h T The road leadingfrom theLion’s/St 628 8141;admission15NIS; Western (Wailing)Wall Western Hurva Synagogue Hurva Wohl Archaeological Museum Wohl Archaeological includes an excellent multimedia includesanexcellentmultimedia , which features a1st-century

Mp p288; (Map Via Dolorosa Via Mamluk architecture Mamluk , a488mpassagethatfol-

Mp p288; (Map x Jerusalem Archaeological Archaeological Jerusalem (Sorrowful Way) or (Sorrowful Way) or Mp p8 . Down p288). (Map 627 1333;www.thekotel h Mp p8 , the p288), (Map St Anne’sChurch 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, x Kotel Western Western Kotel 627 7550;www

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.thirdtemple.com) for women,isrequired. dress, including aheadscarf Conservative tovisitors onIslamicholidays. It’s closed Dome of theRockorAl-Aqsa Mosque. Mount, butare barred fromentering the Non-Muslims canwalkaroundthe Temple al-Magharba gate, atthe Western Wall. to theTemple theBab Mountisthrough ofis afunctioninghouse worship. Entrance while thenearby more as afigurehead thanamosque, serves piece of theTemple Mount,butactually p288 ), completed inAD691,isthecentre- at thenowheavily guardedsite. can Fathers leadasolemnprocessionhere. lievers andat3pmonFridays,theFrancis- appeartopromote faithinbe- notion does was probablynottheactualroute taken, the Whilethis he lugged hiscrosstoCalvary. claims wastaken by thecondemnedJesus as ofStations theCross,route thattradition sion of architectural traditions. The original rected. Thechurch represents itself acolli- that Jesus wascrucified, buriedandresur- Ethiopian andCoptic churches believe site where Greek Orthodox, theCatholic, ChurchoftheHoly Sepulchre The ChristianQuarter revolves around the QUARTER CHRISTIAN Muslim sites andbuilda it. PlansbyJewish groupstodestroythe Jews attempt tostake their sovereignty over into thecentre of controversy asArabsand years, theTemple thrust Mounthasbeen his placealongsideAllah.Inmore recent flying toheaven fromthemount totake (isra) with Mohammed’sjourney mysticalnight ple Mountisrevered foritsassociation most holyplaces.ForMuslims,theTem- lies’) washere, makingitoneof Judaism’s Templesand Second (akathe‘Holyof Ho- of hisfaith.The sacred of altar theFirst inatest hissonIsaac by Godtosacrifice the placewhere Abraham wasinstructed First andHerod’s Temples Second and biblical MtMoriah,thesite of Solomon’s massive stoneplatformwasbuilt over the The andnottobemissed. the MiddleEast, of recognisable themostinstantly iconsof p288; The gold-plated Haram ash-Sharif, the h , inwhich theProphetdreamed of 7.30-11am &1.30-2.30pmSat-Thu) have onlyincreased tensions JERUSALEM ••Sights Al-Aqsa Mosque Dome oftheRock (Map p288 ), the Temple Mount Third TempleThird Mp p288) (Map isone (Map

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Rd; caretaker tothepointway. Schindler ofOskar grave theunelaboratesmall cemetery containing Mary fell into‘eternal sleep’. mition the corner, student/child 30/20/15NIS; x also the suous auraof ritualandmystery. There’s p8 autsuet 6/4NIS; adult/student p288; Cathedral A worthwhilevisitistheArmenian &MT ZION worthwhile David minaret. It’soccupiedbythehighly cludes Herod’s Towerandtheof Crusader lent viewsover theOldCity. Church oftheRedeemer iting thetowerof theneighbouring who’s modestlydressed. It’salsoworthvis- a sombre place. It’sopendailytoanyone others over theyears, but itremains quite by theCrusaders andtweaked bynumerous Byzantine structure wasextensively rebuilt 290 tians, thishillside holds special significance slopes of the Mount of Olives. For Chris- lovely KidronValley, againup the thenrises Stephen’s Gate, the landdropsaway intothe To theeast of theOldCity,outside Lion’s/St Valley the Kidron MtScopus& Mount ofOlives, stages ofat several itshistory. ofseries relief aluminiummodelsof the city ant angle. Forblindvisitors, there isalsoa halls andgardensaddanespeciallypleas- artexhibitsinthe ible format.Revolving of Jerusalem digest- andeasily in a concise h of of of building isthetraditionalsite thesame be thesite Supper. of theLast Atthe back Map (Cenacle; p288 ), traditionallyheldto leads outtoMtZion,site of the Peter’s three denialsof him. cock thatJesus hadpredicted wouldreveal which commemorates thecrowingof the 10am-2pm Fri) King David’sTomb King Just southof KingDavid’s Tomb isa The Jaffa Gate area isdominated bythe From theArmenianQuarter, ZionGate h 626 5333; www.towerofdavid.org.il; Jaffa Gate; adult/ 626 5333;www.towerofdavid.org.il; JaffaGate; 8am-6pm Sun-Thu, 8am-2pmFri) JERUSALEM••Sights (Map p288 ), where Jesus’ mother 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Church of St Peter inGallicantu Church ofStPeter (Map (Map p288 Patriarchate ; ArmenianOrthodox Citadel , which tells theentire history Tower of David Museum Tower ofDavidMuseum Church & Monastery oftheDor- Church &Monastery (Map p288 ), which in-

Mp p288; (Map h (Map p288 ) forexcel- (Map p288 ); askthe h , which hasasen- 10am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) x , andaround 671 9767;MtZion; Coenaculum

Mp p288; (Map Lutheran St James’

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Sun-Thu, 9am-1pmFri) pus; nary 500m-long ago. Themainattractionistheextraordi- captured byKindDavid some3000years small shops, businesses and ageing hotels.small shops,businesses ian part of Jerusalem ischaracterised by The modern, blaring,fume-hazed Palestin- Thu, 9am-2pmFri) x the and p288) grove inthe builthere,been the andvisitors canstillsee heaven. churches Predictably, several have world, wasarrested andlater ascendedinto as thesite where Jesus tookonthesinsof the the remains of the Absalom’s tomb,asclaimed. (Map p288 not ), which isalmostcertainly valley sitsthe1st-century ofmatic set historicalsites. Atthetopof the and theMountof Olives, presents anenig- David/Mt Ophel(theoriginalJerusalem) request ([email protected]). free publicconcerts;alistisavailable on ithosts hall.OnSundayevenings, assembly of theincredible pipeorgan inthemain architecture andincludeademonstration guided tours explainthecentre’s wonderful x to visit these areasto visitthese alone. Valley, women not andwestronglyadvise ing aroundtheMount of Olives andKidron experienceswhilewalk- ported unpleasant improve yourunderstanding of theplace. wondersMonday andThursday) to does tourists soaguidedtourinEnglish (11am The Cityof upfor David isnotwellset of adventure. andasense torch (flashlight) astrong sandals, to washinit.You’llneed man washealedafter Jesus instructed him Siloam waterwaist-deep thatendsatthe Eastern Studies Eastern mon Olives andHebrew University, istheMor- in themorningforbestlight. of theOldCityfromsummit–visitearly p288 ). Equallyimpressive isthepanorama Below Jerusalem’s currentBelow citywallssits The Note thatquite afew women have re- On theMountofMt Scopus,between 1-800-252423; www.cityofdavid.org.il; 626 2341;adult/child12/6NIS; x Brigham Young University Center for Middle forMiddle Center YoungUniversity Brigham (Map p288 ), where ablind itissaid 626 5621; Kidron Valley Kidron

, anunderground of passage (Map (Map pp284-5 BuberSt,MtSco- ; Martin h Tomb of the Virgin Mary Tomb oftheVirgin , the Canaanite settlement settlement , theCanaanite tours 10am-3.30pmTue-Fri) Hezekiah’s Tunnel Hezekiah’s Garden ofGethsemane Garden , between theCityof, between City ofDavid www.lonelyplanet.com Pillar ofAbsalom h 9am-4pm Sun- h

Mp p288; (Map Mp p288; (Map 9am-5pm Pool of (Map (Map . Free

and avoid thearea duringShabbat. tively, don’ttake photoswithoutpermission Europe.Holocaust Eastern Dress conserva- is reminiscent of a Orthodox Jewish districtof most reluctant touristattractions,theultra- food market. Possiblyoneof the world’s 2745; admission free; pp284-5; the Seam the Seam the ArabandJewish armies)isthe andWestJerusalem once dividedEast (and Jesus’ crucifixionandresurrection. tobethesite bymostProtestants believed of reasons outlinedonthefree guidedtour,it’s Forthemany known asGordon’sCalvary. hill Golgotha(ThePlaceof theSkull),also vides aviewof whatsomeclaimtobethe of of Joseph Arimathaea. Thesite alsopro- are tohave believed theproperty oncebeen 2000-year-old stonetombandgardenthat h .museum; 4HelHandasa;adult/senior/student25/10/20NIS; h Rd&SultanSuleimanSt;adult/student26/16NIS; Jericho 5 ; City walls,the SuleimanSt,justoutsidetheOld On Sultan www.lonelyplanet.com The Holocaust museum The Holocaust museum MUSEUMS tling districtis themostcolourfulandbus- St. However, Yehuda Ben V Standthepedestrianised triangle formedbyJaffa Rd,KingGeorge centredThe NewCityisroughly onthe NewCity The and coexistence through the use of theuse art. through and coexistence timedia expositionthatdealswithconflict by friends and family of Holocaust victims; the Pages of Testimony – formsfilled out This rotunda isthephysical repository for includes the tear-jerking ‘Hall of Names’. completed in2005, million history museum, of theNaziHolocaust.Animpressive US$56 moving memorial tothesixmillionvictims is thebeautiful good here). ticketmusty (yourIsraelMuseum isalso isabit thepresentation exhibits, although impressive archaeological andarchitectural x Located ontheformerGreen Linethat Behind aheavy stonewallonNablusRd Behind 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9am-3pmFri) 10am-3pm Sun-Thu, &Sat) 10am-2pmFri h 628 2251; http://www.imj.org.il/rockerfeller/; cnr 628 2251;http://www.imj.org.il/rockerfeller/; x

(Map pp284-5; (Map 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat) 644 3565; www.yadvashem.org; Mt Zikaron; 644 3565;www.yadvashem.org; MtZikaron; h 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9am-2pmFri) Garden Tomb Garden Rockefeller Museum Museum Rockefeller Mahane Yehuda Mahane x shtetl 628 1278;www.coexistence.art , which contains a, which contains (ghetto) inpre- (ghetto)

, apowerfulmul- Mp pp284-5; (Map Yad Vashem Me’a She’arim Me’a , theJewish

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ground information. wealth of well-displayedartefacts andback- reveals witha thehistoryof theHolyLand the course isavailable attheYMCA 26 David St)Athree-month HaMelekh 37 Hillel St;admission48NIS; 37 Hillel x x Jerusalem’s equally moving history. leadsthem through of FiddlerontheRoof) the on-screen actionasChaimTopol(star are alongwith jolted aroundintheirseats Rockefeller Jerusalem. inEast Museum ticket daystovisitthe isalsogoodforseven 1947and 1956.Your at Qumranbetween Scrolls,which were uncoveredthe DeadSea backgrounddisplaysand examples ofsee ally inspiring garden andthejar-shaped andarchitectur- cance, italsoincludesapeaceful of nationalhistorical andartisticsignifi- of majorAn assemblage several collections a carnivalrideisthe COURSES exterminated intheHolocaust. remembers the1.5millionJewish children infinitely insidetheChildren’s Memorial Equally moving, flamereflected thesolitary beknown. nameswillnever victims whose The holedugoutof thefloorhonours those three millionhave collected. sofarbeen dore Herzl andthe YMCA YMCA Council British Language you off neartheHerzl Museum. founded. BusNos13,17,18,20or27drop dedicated totheZionistmovement thathe Thu, 10am-2pmFri) h adult/child/student40/20/30NIS; .org.il; RupinSt, GivatRam; ter, 9.30am-2pm Fri, 11am-3pmSat) ter, 9.30am-2pmFri, 9.30am-9.30pm Wedinsummer,1.30-9.30pmwin- student 28/15/15NIS; adult/child/ 1066; www.blmj.org; 25GranotSt,GivatRam; weekly for10 weeksandcost900NIS. branchtwice Classes meetattheEast Jerusalem April. Januaryand language coursesbeginning inSeptember, 31 NablusRd)Offers [email protected]; The country’smajor complexis museum A cross between a museum, atheatre amuseum, and A crossbetween Next toYad Vashem isthegrave of Theo- The 625 2228; www.time-elevator-jerusalem.co.il; BeitAg 625 2228;www.time-elevator-jerusalem.co.il; ron, 643 3266;adult/child20/15NIS; 10am-4pm Mon,Wed&Sat,4-9pmTue, 10am-9pm Israel Museum Israel Museum Mp pp284-5 ; (Map Bible Lands Museum Bible LandsMuseum Mp pp284-5; (Map Shrine oftheBook Shrine , justwestof the NewCity.

JERUSALEM ••Courses (Map pp284-5; (Map h x Herzl 9.30am-5.30pm Sun-Tue &Thu, 569 2692;fax 6235192; h Time Elevator Time Elevator ulpan

x 1-5.30pm) Museum

Mp pp284-5; (Map h x chronologically for900NIS. 626 7111;issa 8am-5pm Sun-Thu) 670 8811;www.imj . Here you’ll . Spectators . Spectators

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES tours.com; 24 Cardo, Jewish Quarter) tours.com; 24Cardo,Jewish Sun-Fri) try the anancientwaterthrough channel. Also they canmake like IndianaJonesandwade and ( p289) Time Elevator Other obviousattractionsforkidsare the of animalsthat Noahcouldfitinhisark. city, which pair includesjustaboutevery Omar Ibn al-Khattab Sq) Omar Ibnal-Khattab more or lessinEnglish. major that’s sites, with basiccommentary past36offrom SafraSq,cruises Jerusalem’s Mount (US$25/23peradult/student). of citytours including oneof theTemple SLEEPING 99CircularLine Route A goodintroductiontothecityisEgged’s TOURS 10am-5pmSat) 4.30pm Fri, child 3-8/senior40/32/32NIS; ( beginswiththeexcellent salem The listof kid-friendly sites aroundJeru- JERUSALEM FORCHILDREN 292 bourhood of East Jerusalem.bourhood of East are clustered in the neigh- New City. Better-value business-style hotels hoods of Yemin MosheandMamila in the are mostlylocated intheposhneighbour- tique hotels, amongothers. Top-endhotels B&Bs, historicChristian hospicesandbou- New andOldCities, includingfriendly travellers have many more optionsinthe JerusalemEast andtheOldCity. Midrange City, forcingbackpackers totake refuge in downmost budget placesintheNew closed A lackof tourismduringthelastintifada .minisrael.co.il; (when there are atleastfourparticipants). 10am, 11amand2pmSundaytoThursday City walkingtour(US$15perperson) at Oct) headed thatway. trun Junction,halfwaytoTel Aviv ifyou’re down toscale-modelsize. It’sneartheLa- side Jerusalem, snakingitswayaroundtheruins. Out- set recently featured wasagiantmodel train often hasspecialexhibitionsforkids– x Zion Walking Tours Zion Walking David Tours shrinks330of Israel’s famedattractions JERUSALEM •• Jerusalem forChildren JERUSALEM••Jerusalem 675 0111; www.jerusalemzoo.org.il; Masua Rd;adult/ 675 0111;www.jerusalemzoo.org.il; Masua . This coach service, which departs . Thiscoach service, Tower ofDavidMuseum h 21) the (p291),

Hezekiah’s Tunnel Hezekiah’s (Map p288; (Map 10am-6pm Nov-Mar, 10am-8pmApr- 10am-6pm Nov-Mar, Mini Israel Mini operates athree-hour Old

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9am-6pm Sun-Thu, 9am- Kotel Western Walls Western Kotel ( x does avariety does 20) which (p290), 20) where (p290) 08-921 4121;www x h 050 5305552; Biblical Zoo 10am &noon

30/100/120/150NIS) al-Zeit; dm/s/d/tr 10SouqKhan [email protected]; 150-190NIS, withoutbathroom70-120NIS; St;dm30NIS,dwithbathroom .citadelhostel.com; 20Mark laundry, agiftshop andcafé. includes room.A varietyofsame services intheunmarried couplesfromsleeping rules preventatrium. StrictIslamichouse a varietyof roomsbuiltaroundasunny from theGoldenGate, theHashimi has the heat and noise by thick walls. bythick walls. the heat and noise management andcoolrooms protected from derrated optionwitha large kitchen, friendly Muslim quarter, theGolden Gate isanun- commodation Association ofJerusalem commodation Association 2198; www.bnb.co.il; 91074) POBox7547,Jerusalem El-Malak &27Ararat; dm/s/d50/100/150NIS) El-Malak d/ste US$8/30/35/120; al-Zeit; dm/s/ 4410; www.hashimihotel.com;73SouqKhan 25NIS, dwith/withoutbathroom100/70NIS; [email protected]; St;dm 25/35NIS, dwith/withoutbathroom150/120NIS; Sq;roofmattresses/dm .com/petra; OmarIbnal-Khattab Citadel YouthHostel BUDGET Old City shuttle and24-hourhotwater. are available, aswellairport dry services viewsoverspectacular theOldCity.Laun- big attractionistheJaffa Gate locationand mosphere andfirst-class management. A butstillretains afriendlyat- at theseams Melville), thePetra tocomeapart isstarting Markhas housed TwainandHerman Converted fromagrandoldhotel (which style place,located in theJewish Quarter, has Free wi-fi available. dramatic andthemanagement isexcellent. ties are mediocre buttherooftop viewsare facili- traditional Arabiclines.Bathroom and better private roomsdecorated along like dorms entrance,hasamixof scruffy Palestinian-run withacave- guesthouse, your valuables. andlockersclude abilliardstable toprotect FacilitiesQuarter’s al-Zeit. SouqKhan in- stone interior, isburiedinsidetheMuslim venerable oldhostel, withamagnificent Golden Gate Inn Golden Gate El Malak For alistof the B&Bs,contact New Hashimi Hotel &Hostel New HashimiHotel Hebron YouthHostel Petra Hostel

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n 37ViaDolorosa;dm/s/d/tr€14/42/66/93; trianhospice.com; Prices includebreakfast. form of asynagogueforMessianic Jews. and anAnglicanchurch that’sbuiltinthe areAttached Heritage theChristian Centre atmosphere.enjoys aquietandcomfortable Anglican compoundnearJaffa Gate and family tree. clothing andanincredible hand-drawn orated withlovely Palestinian embroidered character, andthecommonroomsare dec- Uriah bathinginapool.It’sgotloadsof the wife saw King David of supposedly in 1885onthesite of Shebiye, Bath where ni s/d/trUS$35/55/75; JaffaGate; www.newimperial.com; Hotel East NewImperial MIDRANGE upstairs. Askin thehouse forClaire Ghawi. value. Twobetter roomsare alsoavailable overpriced buttheprivate roomsare good ment of anArmenianhome. Thedormsare partitionedroomsinthecoolbase- several www.lonelyplanet.com to share withyourfellow abeer guests. front porch andleafygardenare niceplaces clean roomsoff cavernous hallways.The crusaders, thiscastle-like offers guesthouse film aboutchain-rattling orChristian ghosts Gate; s/d US$50/80, extra personUS$25) s/dUS$50/80,extra Gate; Sq;Jaffa 7727; www.itac-israel.org;OmarIbnal-Khattab Austrian Hospice Austrian Christ ChurchGuestHouse Christ and Armenian quarters. crossroads betweentheJewish, Christian to theatmosphere. It’slocated right onthe rose garden andantiquesitting roomadd with slightlyhigher prices. The backyard rooms you’dfindin theNewCity,albeit are some ofthebestaround,onparwith and socialise. the private Likewise, rooms with plentyofroom tospread out,cook medievalkitchen cess toawonderfully bunkbeds. A bonusisac- comfortable rooms withtraditionalstonewalls, and rooms intheOldCity,withclean, airy Guest Houseoffers thebestdormitory Lutheran Guest House CHOICE AUTHOR’S THE St; dm/s/dUS$9/49.50/80; Marks 6888; www.luth-guesthouse-jerusalem.com; ) Lookinglike aprime locationtoshoota ) Thisramblingoldhotel wasbuilt

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) The Lutheran Mp p288; (Map 627 1466;www.aus Thisisinthe x x 628 2261; x 626 627 character. Free Internet. neighbour Faisal, butdimlylitandwithless a smallvegetable iscleanerthanits stand, Carter, Ingrid Bergman andJohn Steinbeck. IngridBergman Carter, ston Churchill, Gorbechov, Mikhail Jimmy iting celebrities.FormerguestsincludeWin- scholars aswellatemporary homeforvis- place, arendezvous pointforjournalistsand itremainsbrow status, anunpretentious is inaleagueof itsown.Despite itshigh- class like nootherhotel inIsrael,thishotel 700; .co.il; s US$175-340,dUS$230- 23NablusRd,EastJerusalem; King DavidHotel King TOP END quality inotherareas. on spendingdoublethepricefor similar If youprefer inWestJerusalem, tostay plan Colony American TOP END Faisal Hostel BUDGET Jerusalem East guesthouse aboveguesthouse thebaronJaffa Rd. upa dormitory-only was planning toset At thetimeof writing,Mike’s Place( p296 ) BUDGET City New character quite like thisplace. inIsraeloffers noguesthouse dishevelled, free Faisal dialogue. Although issomewhat owner, provides free Internet, free tea and tivists andwannabeanarchists. Hisham,the point forfreelance journalists,politicalac- makingitapopularmeeting guesthouse, cal tensions inthisvery runhigh Palestinian d US$45-65; 1HaHavatzelet St, Zion Sq;sUS$35-45, .org/kaplanhotel; closet, ask to see another. asktosee closet, are given something resembling ajanitor’s ard roomsare smaller than others, soifyou grand diningroom.Note thatsomestand- old-world atmosphere, lushgardensanda British mandate, theKingDavid offers hotmail.com; 4 HaNevi’im St;dm/d25/80NIS; hotmail.com; 4HaNevi’im dm/d 25/80NIS; pnais DavidSt;sUS$228-488,dUS$298-508; hotels.com; 7King Kaplan Hotel Kaplan Palm Hostel Palm Hostel pnais i Mp p288; (Map (Map (Map p288 ;

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(Map (Map p286 ; (Map (Map pp284-5 ; JERUSALEM ••Sleeping ) ThePalm, reached through ) ) Like ahangover fromthe With avery convenient ) Offering luxury and Offering x x x x 627 3189; 6 HaNevi’im St; 627 3189;6HaNevi’im x 628 7502;faisalsam@ 625 4591;www.mznet 627 9777;www.amcol 620 8888;www. i ) Politi-

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES man Colony;s/dUS$40/50; ImeinuRd,Ger- www.bnb.co.il/green/index.htm; 4Rachel Le Sixteen B&B Le Sixteen aminimumthree-night stay. imposes places totheOldCity,butunfortunately it guest flats.It’soneof midrange theclosest fers avarietyof well-kept suites andstudio US$63-118, dUS$73-120; St,Yemin.jeru-avisar-house.co.il; 12Hame-vasser Moshe;s kitchen. Long-term rates are available. include of anduse thecommunal ledge host.Rates onthecityandadelightful The irrepressible ownerisafontof know- minutes’ walkfromthecentralbusstation. .co.il/le16/index.htm; 16 Midbar SinaiSt,GivatHamivtar; .co.il/le16/index.htm; 16Midbar Allenby 2B&B MIDRANGE room andkitchen facilities. hotel hasbasicroomswithprivate bath- location nexttoZionSq,thissmallbudget 294 able forathirdguestatnoextracharge. facilities andakitchenette. Futonsare avail- fan-cooledroomhasprivate Old City.Each minutes’ walkorashortbusridefromthe s/d/tr US$55/80/100; St,Yeminwww.scotsguesthouse.com; 1DavidRemez Moshe; nai .il/allenby; AllenbySq2,Romema;sUS$20-55,dUS$30-70; are equippedwithheater, fanandphone. with balconiesthatoverlook theOldCity, ing roomandold-worldcafé.Rooms,most thanks tothefireplace, novel-stuffed read- the OldCity,butstillretains aquaintfeel, pice isnotasgloomyitscounterparts in Other recommended midrange places: St Andrew’s GuestHouse St Andrew’s Avissar’s House B-Green GuestHouse B-Green Papa Andrea’s THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE a cheese-and-wine evening are (75NIS) with livea cheese-and-wine required. jazzmusic, forwhich bookings for lunchand dinnerthespeciality isfishandvegetarian pasta dishes. OnTuesday at8pmitholds .the 19th-century homeofartist You caneatalate breakfast from10amtonoon and Sun-Thu, 8pm-midnight Sat) 10am-3pm Fri, over below. theMuslim,JewishandChristian quarters eager topleaseand notshyinlendinganopiniontoallmatters political–apropos asyougaze followed byplattersstarters, ofgrilledmeatandchips. The friendly staffandmanagementare from allangles. The foodishot,fresh of soupsandsaladsfor andexcellent,withaselection Sepulchre, toPapa rooftoprestaurant Andrea’s, thatguarantees views awonderful spectacular building,downthe streetup thestairsatthis oldChristian-quarter fromtheChurch oftheHoly JERUSALEM••Eating Ticho House ) A comfortable, friendly B&B two friendlyB&Btwo Acomfortable,

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Inalively area 20 Mp p288; (Map x x ) 052 578493;www.bnb.co x OwnerYossiof- x 624 4186;Ticho 9HaravKookSt;meals30-60NIS; HouseMuseum, 532 8008;www.bnb 628 4433; Aftemeos Market No4;meals35-60NIS; Market 628 4433;Aftemeos 625 5447;www x x This renowned bohemian caféand restaurant ishousedin 566 4220; 566 4220; 673 2401;

10.30pm Tue-Sun) Israel St;bagels3-13NIS) menian Patriarchate Rd;meatdishes35-45NIS; dled invineleaves. derev dishes are excellent,including Thestronglyflavoureding fountain. meat stone-and-tile interior andagently splash- place attractsdiners withitsbeautiful always upforengagingpoliticaldebate. is in theOldCity.ThefriendlyownerMoses choice justinsideJaffaformal Lebanese Gate Tiferet IsraelSt;hotdishes20-29NIS,sandwiches16-32NIS) location off Zion Sq. Competitive ates include breakfast. location offZionSq.Competitiveatesincludebreakfast. .net.il; 4HaHavatzeletSt;s/d/trUS$40/50/60; Ibn al-Khattab Sq; Ibn al-Khattab Restaurant Moses Art City Old restaurants SalomonSt. alongYoel New City,withaconcentrationof ethnic Most of thefinediningplacesare in the EATING Habira Hotel breakfast andwi-fiaccess. Central locationnearBenYehuda include St.Rates Palatin Hotel and wi-fiaccess. s US$35-40,dUS$55-60; venient locationneartheWestern Wall. known foritsattachedInternet caféandcon- A cloneof aNew Yorkdeli,thisplaceisbest Jewish snackwithachoice of fillings. place where youcanmunch ontheoriginal -palatin.co.il; St;s/dUS$60/70; 4Agrippas Bonker’s Bagels Bonker’s Armenian Tavern Tzaddik’s NewYorkDeli , a spiced minced-meat mixture, aspicedminced-meat bun- Mp p286; (Map (Map (Map p286 ; h IntheJaffa Gate area, this 7.30am-1am)

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2am Sun-Thu, 8pm-2amSat) noon-5pmFri, Agrippas Sts; Agrippas dishes 21-25NIS; ers 35-70NIS,mains80-120NIS; trendy Colony. German patio make thisafinechoice ifyou’re inthe mealsandalovelyhealthy light street-side A buzzingatmosphere, candle-littables, meat. Thefirst shotof vodkaisfree. element’ (55NIS)withfive kinds of grilled gentinean steaks (75NIS).Trythe‘cinco including burritos(25NIS)and400gAr- bar-restaurant Americanfare offering Latin bar. with home-baked bread. Ithasawell-stocked dishes,allserved savoury piesandlasagne burgers, vegetables, pizza,stuffed blintzes, a range of vegetable soups,quiches, veggie up koshervegetarianThis clean, place serves 1868 City New www.lonelyplanet.com Mahane Self-Catering p286; (Map with localsis stands Faisal (shwarmas 12NIS). Guesthouse trythe jointafewrusalem; doors downfrom you’ll findcheaper, more authenticplaces. especially towardstheMuslimQuarter, and location. Walkdownabackstreet ortwo, cater mostlytoforeign touristslured bythe Church of theHolySepulchre andJaffa Gate ing roads.Shwarma aroundthe stands thetwofork- the narrowfrontage between asyouenter fromDamascus Gate,stall in good. Fordecentfelafel, trytheunnamed fewerthe OldCity,andeven are especially There are surprisingly few felafel placesin Quick Eats value foodshopping. Forthe bestdeals, serves IsraeliandEthiopian food. serves King George V andAgrippas Sts,which roast beef andothermeat-based dishes. roast beef wines tocomplementamenuof lambchops, built (obviously)in1868.Itoffers achoice of one of theoldestbuildingsinWestJerusalem, French-Italian gourmetrestaurant in isset St; Caffit El Toro In theNewCity, one of themost popular The bestvaluesnackshopsare Je- inEast Village Green Village h

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Mp p286; (Map x 9am-10pm Sun-Thu, 9am-3pmFri) x Offers Jerusalem’s best- 622 2312; 10 King David St;start- 622 2312;10King x 623 3982; 23 Hillel St; 623 3982;23Hillel King ofFelafel & Shwarma King

Mp p245; tn af & Jaffa btwn pp284-5; (Map 563 3584; 35 Emek Refa’im 563 3584;35EmekRefa’im h , onthecorner of x noon-midnight) 625 3065; 33 Jaffa Rd; 625 3065;33JaffaRd; Slicklittle h This This noon-

Mon) St; Malka Saturday and a DJ is in-house on Sunday. onSunday. Saturday andaDJisin-house Wednesday, outdoorconcertsare heldon are (49NIS),jamsessions night heldon beer riety of Mondayisallyoucandrink events: St; Grill, underthePhilips sign. down toHaoman St,it’sopposite theAnjril ultimate clubbingvenues. Whenyouget and great Haoman lighting, 17isoneof the warehouse location,boomingsoundsystem mission 50-80NIS; Hoa 17 Haoman Nightclubs ENTERTAINMENT drinks andlate-night dancing. The Russiancompoundisalsoasafe betfor defeat themostardentpub-crawlers. even late-night barswith enough andcafésto lel mainstreets intheNewCity,are lined SalomonandRivlin,thetwoparal- Yoel ternative andabookin yourroom. tobeer hike intotheNew City willprovide anal- their pavements atsundownandonlya JerusalemEast andtheOldCityrollup DRINKING clearing outtheday’sproduce. Friday year-round), whenstallholders are to Thursday insummer,and3pmto4pm day inwinter, 7.30pmto8.30pmSunday day (5.30pmto6.30pmSundayThurs- stroll injustasit’swindingdownforthe well asmaindishes. petizers such assushiandchicken wings,as excellent ap- mostly abarbutitalsoserves andblaringhip-hopsounds.It’slighting with blacklacquerfurniture, blood-red (water pipe)and50typesof whiskey. beers, 15flavours of tobaccoforthenargileh this popularsportsbaroffers 12draught h day when it hosts DJs or live music. day when ithosts DJs orlive music. The bar isalso openon Thursday andSatur- when students puttheirmoves onthefloor. night, from 2.30pm to8pm.Monday issalsa lesson(40NIS) on Friday whenithostsasalsa sian bars, thisoffers alightermood,especially 2am) h Zolli’s Glasnost Gong Yankee’s Bar 4.30pm-late) Inthemiddleof astripof grumpyRus- DimlylitJapanese-influenced place 4pm-9.30am) h

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7pm- 295

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES h lesbian night. held Thursday andFriday,whileSunday is alley southof Safra Sq.Dancepartiesare this small,slickbarattheendof aquiet the timeof writingthemainhangoutwas ahead forupcomingevents. the name. Call alternative arts,hence and‘experimental’ musicians anddancers mainlyinterested in novative barandtheatre hostsyoungartists, out of railroadwarehouse, thisin- adisused and at of spotsintown. themostpopularnight and a4pmto9pmhappyhourmake thisone h the Jerusalem SymphonyOrchestra. performances.It’salsohometo for certain ous English-language translationheadsets beitshmuel.com; 6 ShemaSt) Abu ObeidaSt) .co.il; Sq;adult/student150/120NIS) 2DavidRemez Theatre Jerusalem &ClassicalMusic Theatre Shoshan Venues &Lesbian Gay Place Mike’s Music Live Salomon St; 296 Mp pp284-5; (Map every Fridayfrom2.30pmto5.30pm. every College, on Saturday morning. Centre Music (Alpert) Jerusalem with anEnglishsynopsis. operettas andfolkdancing inArabic,often places stage plays,musicals, these rusalem, 4347; Mishkenot Sha’ananim) 4347; Mishkenot 40NIS; 28HebronSt; aways andfirst-time tourists. floor thatreels inJerusalem’s teenage tear- of theIsraelPhilharmonic Orchestra. sional English-language performances. pp284-5 ; 1ShezarRd; David Marcus St) David Marcus alel St) and Underground Pargod Theatre Pargod Lab Khan Theatre Khan Classical performances are heldatthe Al-Masrah Centre for Palestine Culture &Art forPalestine Culture Centre Al-Masrah Binyanei Ha’Umah Conference Centre Conference Binyanei Ha’Umah 4pm-5am) 9.30pm-2am)

JERUSALEM •• Getting There &Away JERUSALEM••Getting Al-Kasaba Theatre Al-Kasaba Great take forjazz;jamsessions place

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posite Jerusalem. DamascusGate inEast andGazadepartfromtheranksop- Bank of Harav KookStandJaffa Rd(Map p286 ). Friday andSaturday)departfromthe corner (20NIS perperson 30NISon onweekdays, minutes) atleast hourlyfrom 6.30am to airport (20NIS, 40 for Ben-Gurion station Bus No947departs fromthecentral bus To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING Ring station. on busNo6from Jaffa Rdorthe centralbus ticket saves afew shekels. Reach the station on Fridayisat 3pm. Acombotrain/bus 9.10pm Sundayto Thursday. Thelasttrain child 19/17NIS)leave hourlyfrom6.10amto Trains toTel Aviv’s (adult/ Arlosoroff station Train to travel duringShabbat. a few shekels more; they’re also theonlyway departmorebuses, frequently andcostonly Sheruts Sherut pp284-5; (Map From thesparkling Bus El Al Arkia airlineshaveThese inJerusalem: offices will connectJerusalem withEilatandHaifa. domesticcarriersis high, ArkiaandIsrair international charter Whendemand flights. Jerusalem’s mainlyby airportisused Air THERE&AWAY GETTING hem, departing every twohours.hem, departingevery Tomb (3.80NIS,25minutes) nearBethle- toRachel’s day.Theresame isalsoservice (8.45am) oryou’llbepressed toget backthe sure of theday toleave onthefirst service hours) orMasada (39NIS,2½hours), be (32NIS,two includingEinGedi Dead Sea, depart fourtimesdaily.Fordaytripstothe hourly; andtoEilat(65NIS,4½hours) buses (32NIS,1½hours) departroughly Be’ersheva 2½ hours), Tiberias (42NIS,2½ hours) and 15minutes;part every toHaifa (39NIS; toTelBuses Aviv (17.70NIS,onehour) de- to allmajor citiesandtownsaroundIsrael. Sheruts For info on buses to Egypt, see toEgypt,For infoonbuses see p355 . (Map (Map p286 ; ( x (service taxis) are taxis) much faster than (service 621 8444; fax 623 5758; 4th fl, 42 Agrippas St) 621 8444;fax6235758;4thfl,42Agrippas foralldestinationsontheWest x x x 694 4888;JaffaRd) 677 0207; fax 677 0255; 12 Hillel St) 677 0207;fax0255;12Hillel *5770 formore details. Egged centralbusstation Egged www.lonelyplanet.com Sheruts , buses connect , buses forTel Aviv

COAST MEDITERRANEAN ripped off. themeter, orriskgettingAlways asktouse anywhere withinthecentralarea of town. Plan onspending20NISto25NISfortrips Taxi latest route information,call from theJaffa Gate touristoffice. Orforthe up acolour-coded route map(inHebrew) of citybusroutes (5.30NISperride).Pick Jerusalem islacedwithavery goodnetwork Bus tively, Friday, 8.20pmto10pmSaturday.Alterna- 8.30pm SundaytoThursday, 6amto4.30pm www.lonelyplanet.com lem’s pietyand3000-yearhistory. Forsak- atJerusa-attitude whilethumbingitsnose claims amodern,tolerant,laissez-faire underrated Mediterranean citythatpro- Tel Aviv, barely acenturyold,isgreatly x AVIV TEL communities. and ahostof sproutingnewsuburbsand particularly inTel Aviv, Haifa Netanya, ing populationisconcentrated inthisarea, hills.Mostofby lowcoastal Is rael’s grow- up byaflat,fertile plaininterrupted coastal HaNikra isalongbandof whitebacked sand The IsraelicoastfromAshkelon toRosh commodation 24hours adayfor40NIS. picks upbooked passengers fromtheirac- join thesunworshippers atTel Aviv’s Centre. neighbourhood of Relax after lunch inthearty Begin dayonewith avisittothe TEL AVIV INTWODAYS your morning around oranyotherdiscardedgems thatcatchyourfancy.SpendtherestJaffa, buyinguptrinkets of alive withacrafts fair. Endthedaywithdinner anddancingattheOldPort. and Fridayare bestfortheseneighbourhoods, asnearby Tel Aviv University, followed byawanderaroundthe downtown before exploringthe Rothschild and Lilienblum Sts is a fine way to cap of the southern part ofthecity. Rothschild and Lilienblum Stsisa fineway tocapof thesouthern part 03 /pop1,160,000 Start outdaytwo with anoutdoorbreakfast andwanderthroughthe Start Nesher service taxis Nesher service ﺗﻞ أﺑﻴﺐ أﺑﻴﺐ Old Jaffa

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625 3233,5332) x 36) peig no the into peeking ( p306),

Yemenite Quarter *2800. Nahum GoldmanMuseumNahum oftheJewish Diaspora אביב mainbeach - תל

( p301 ). Dinneranda pubcrawlaroundposh is available atthe architectureBauhaus acrossthecity.It cating where tofindthevariousstylesof de l’eclat,producesa(1:3000)map indi- Tourist MapTourist of Tel Aviv (see p299 ). Mosthotels also have thefree for fromtheTouristInformation Centre map isanexcellentresource and available The English-language MAPS bookshops. cafés andsecond-hand Yehudaation of Ben St,islinedwithbars, of thecity.AllenbySt,effectively acontinu- zone, Dizengoff St,isthegeographic centre Yehudacentral Ben St.Thetrendy shopping next mainstreet totheeastisbackpacker- lined HaYarkon Stliesablock inland.The Herbert Esplanade,whilethehotel- town centre) inthesouth.Nearest is thesand the northtoYemenite Quarter (the1930s fromtheYarkonfollow 6kmof seafront in parallelnorth–southstreetsfour roughly that Tel Aviv’s bustlingcentralarea on focuses Orientation commerce and,above fun. allelse, withfinance, cityconcernsitself secular tra dition forthelatest fads,thismodern, ing spiritualityforthestockexchange, and condos alongtheglitzybeachfront. the Miamichic of thepastel, glass-fronted cafésof RussifiedlowerAllenbyStand seedy oforientalism theYemenite Quarter withthe days,ashortwalkconnectsthe exotic These along withitspilesof culturalbaggage. intact immigration fromallover theJewish world, ing arrayof distinctive faces–aresult of mass 31) and (p301) Tel Aviv Museum ofArt For visitors, Tel Aviv anabsorb- showsoff Neve Tsedek MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••TelMEDITERRANEAN Aviv Nahalat BinyaminStreet Nahalat Ilana Goor museum (40NIS),publishedbyeditions Carmel Market ( p301 ), from where youcan Bauhaus Centre Tel Aviv-Jaffa Tourist junk stalls 36) n Visitor’s and (p306 ) 31) Hv lunch Have ( p301). . 31) Tuesday (p301). Tel –The Aviv 31) comes (p301) 36) of (p306) 30) at ( p300)

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ὈὈ ὈὈ ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES hlore Park Tl Aviv Tel 298 Yerushalayim Charles 4 6 1 3 2 5 TEL AVIV Mediterranean Nekhemia Trumpeldor MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Tel MEDITERRANEAN Aviv Beach Beach Beach Ge’la Kaufmann St Beach Tel Aviv 28 Frishman Marina Sea ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Manshiye 22 Rokakh St Beach AC Gordon

HaKovshim Beach 25 Tsedek

Neve HaCarmel St

Shabazi St St Allenby Herbert Samuel Esplanade Yafo Rd

St Yemenite Hilton Beach Quarter Shalom Tower 44 Namir 29 Crafts Market HaYarkon St Botanic Gardens To Zoological& 23 49 Sq Binyamin Florentin 51 Nahalat

Lilienblum St 39 Ha’Atzmaut SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Dan Panorama...... Food Fair...... Ami Hotel...... Tel AvivMuseum ofArt...... Suzanne Dellal Centre...... Sportek...... Olympus ClimbingWall...... (see 24) Nahum GutmanMuseum....(see 23) Home ofShimonRokakh...... Hassan BeqMosque...... Shelomo Rd

13 Ben Yehuda St Sheraton Beach Gan

52

Pinsker St St Gordon

Frishman St Frishman

37 St Bograshov

Ὀ

27 Nahalat Binyamin St Binyamin Nahalat LaSalle

9 Herzl St Herzl 38

45 St Allenby Ben-Gurion Ave Ben-Gurion 30 6 Dizengoff 36 Magen David

Circle Menacham Begin Rd Begin Menacham Sq 21 1 42 19 King George V St 20 HaYarkon St

46 41

18 Nakhmani St Nakhmani 31 Shocken St 7 Dizengoff

34 Ben Yehuda St B Centre

40

43 Levinski St Levinski 54 16 10 32

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28 27 26 25 24 23 22

Basel St Basel

Nordau Ave Nordau Arlosoroff St Arlosoroff

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Airport (2.5km)

Sheinkin St Sheinkin H To SdeDov EATING Tel Aviv Brewhouse...... Tapéo...... Kyoto Salsa...... Hummus Ashkara...... Benny the Agadir Hotel...... (see 46) Tel AvivHilton...... Renaissance...... Fisherman......

a 17

50 Ussishkin St Y Salmon Yehoshu'a arkon 8 City Hall

HaRakevet St St HaRakevet Chen Ave 4 Bin Nun St 5 53 Airport; Ramla; To Ben-Gurion Menachem Ibn Gvirol St Jerusalem

Rabin Ibn Gvirol St

Sq Ha'arba'a St Ha'arba'a Embassy (200m) UK Embassy...... Turkish Embassy...... Steimatzky...... Steimatzky...... SPNI...... Police, Lost&Found...... (see14) Police...... Physicians forHumanRights...... Main PostOffice...... KLAF...... Kiria...... Office...... HotelsReservations Kav l’Oved...... ISSTA...... Hapoalim Bank...... Halper’s...... Gordon Ulpan...... Egyptian Embassy...... Coffee Bean...... Bank Leumi...... Australian Embassy...... Aguda...... INFORMATION 15 To Canadian

Begin Rd HaMaccabi 35 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 47 Sha'ul HaMelekh Ave

Kaplan St B5 C4 B4 B1 B5 B1 B2 A2 24 26

Pinkas St 600m 0 0 HaMedina TRANSPORT Blaumilech...... Shoshana Johnson...... Shesek...... Mish Mish...... (see39) Lanski...... Golden Bar...... ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Shuli & Mike’sBikes...... Mazada Tours...... Hertz...... El Dan...... Central BusStation...... Avis...... Arlosoroff Bus Terminal...... TLV Club...... (see 46) New CameriTheatre...... Move...... Minerva...... Lemon...... Israeli OperaHouse...... (see 47) Evita...... Carpé Diem...... Kikar 2 Train Station 12 HaShalom www.lonelyplanet.com Ramat GanNationalStadium 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Jordanian Embassy(350m); To DutchEmbassy(350m); 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B2 B4 B5 C5 B2 C5 B5 A5 D3 B4 B5 B2 C2 B4 B2 C2 C2 B2 D3 B5 Embassy (300m)

Ayalon South D To Canadian Interchange (1km); EretzIsrael Nahum Goldman Museum(1km); (2.5km); Herzliya HaShalom

Ayalon North Tel AvivMerkaz Jewish Diaspora Museum ofthe To RamatAviv 48 Train Station (10km) 0.4 miles 42 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 41 40 39 38 37 B1 C2 B2 A2 C5 A2 D2 C3 B1 B4 A5 B5 B5 B4 A5 B5 B5 B4 Fri, 9am-2amSat)Wi-fiaccess. Fri, and maps. .com; DizengoffCentre) Specialistshopfortravelbooks lnug titles. language 87AllenbySt)SpecialistinEnglish- netvision.net.il; per hr12NIS) St; picture ID). picture borrow awi-ficardifyoudon’thaveone(upon depositof letyou 8.45am-1am Sat)Wired café,whichwilleven Police Fire ambulance Emergency EMERGENCY Steimatzky Lametayel Halper’s BOOKSHOPS Information h x www.lonelyplanet.com one is at 104 Ben Yehudaone is at104 Ben St. hours) are widespread. A relatively clean washing machine, 5NISdryer; open24 laundromats (12NIS Nameless self-serve LAUNDRY dining andnightlife. www.tel-aviv-insider.com municipality. www.tel-aviv.gov.il/english RESOURCES INTERNET Web Stop Surf-Drink-Play Link Private Masarik Coffee Bean available attheOldPortrestaurant strip. If youhave yourownlaptop,wi-fi accessis ACCESSINTERNET police Tourist at themainpostofficethatwillrecord lostitems. St)There isalsoapolicebooth Samuel Esplanade& Mp p298). (Map Opera TowerCentre, andat71103AllenbySt the CentralBusStation,DizengoffCentre, the Chain bookstore. Thecompany’sotherlocationsinclude Dizengoff St hotmail.com; 78BenYehuda St;perhr13NIS) Internet access. 77 King George77 King VSt h 10am-7.30pm Sun-Thu, 10am-2.30pmFri) 522 0249;www.bauhaus-center.com; 99DizengoffSt;

department ( 7.45am-12.30am Sun-Thu, 7.45am-3.30amFri, x (Map (Map p300 ; (Map (Map p298 ; ( (Map (Map p300 ; x (Map (Map p300 ; 100) Mp p300; (Map (Map (Map p298 ; Mp p300; (Map (Map (Map p300 ; 529 1618); Mp p0 pr r 10NIS; hr per p300; (Map ( ( x x x x x 629 1311)Three locationswith x 102) x 527 2411; /fax 6299710;halpbook@ ( x x 65 IbnGvirolSt( x 620 2682;28BograshovSt; x 616 3411;www.lametayel 522 1513;109DizengoffSt) Excellent tips on activities, Excellenttipsonactivities, 529 8669; 73 Ibn Gvirol 529 8669;73IbnGvirol 529 9889;private_link@ 101) 516 5832; cnr Herbert 516 5832;cnrHerbert Official websiteforthe Official h 7am-1am Sun- x h . 695 8750); 24hr) 112 attire. chance yourpub crawlinsparkling tostart youthe laundry,affording has self-service HaLevi St.Thisistheplacetopickupposterestante. 6pm Sun-Thu, OnthecornerofYehuda 7am-noonFri) ( Downtown Tourist Information Centre Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST andHapoalim MizrahiBank Leumi, Bank. ATMs are available atmajor banks–Bank in Tel Aviv willnotchange travellers cheques. larly widespread. Note thattheAmexoffice change traveller’s cheques. ATMs are simi- Tower escalator. also Mostpost offices the change bureau atthefootof the Opera mission, andthere are plentyof them.Try the private bureaus thatdon’tcharge com- The bestcurrency-exchange dealsare at MONEY forHumanRights Physicians Dr Ayaldan MEDICAL SERVICES mation Centre. It’s available attheTel Aviv TouristInfor- is agreat resource forwhat’soninthecity. Time OutTel Aviv MEDIA 2NIS to10NISperday. have aleft-luggage room, charging between andhotels inTelMost guesthouses Aviv Gurion airportforapriceyUS$4perday. facilitiesareLeft-luggage available atBen- LUGGAGE LEFT and flights. Sts; 8801; BeitEl AlBldg,cnrBenYehuda &Shalom Aleichem ISSTA Express American AGENCIES TRAVEL for visitorswhoaren’t covered byhealthinsuranceinIsrael. Sun, Tue &Wed)Thisclinicprovidesfree medicalassistance 3718, 6873027;fax3029;52GolombSt; Yehuda St; try this doctor intheDizengoffshoppingcentre. try thisdoctor x Momo’s Bar h 521 8214; 69 Ibn Gvirol St,Lobby,CityHall); 521 8214;69IbnGvirol MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••TelMEDITERRANEAN Aviv (Map p300 ; 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, Canbook tours 9am-1pm Fri) ( h x Mp p300; (Map 9am-6pm Sun-Thu, Student 8.30am-1pm Fri) 516 6188; 46 Herbert SamuelEsplanade) 516 6188;46Herbert

x (Map (Map p298 St; ; HaRakevet (Map (Map p300 ; 28BenYehuda St) (Map (Map p298 ; 521 0555; www.issta.co.il; 109 Ben x , producedbi-monthly, 525 4186) For dental services, 525 4186)Fordentalservices, (Map (Map p300 ) x Mp p298; (Map 777 8880;fax City Hall h h x 5-7pm 7am- 687

also

299

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 300 Tel Aviv University UNIVERSITIES It’sonthecornerwithBen-Gurion. airline tickets. priced travel agencythatcansometimes comeupwithverywell- Yarkon of awander ifyou’vecome uphere River. Worthy ofthe north on aleafy campus acoupleof kilometres AvivRamat 69978)Israel’sbiggest universityislocated Central Tel Aviv Nekhemia 4 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL TELAVIV Beach Yerushalayim MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Tel MEDITERRANEAN Aviv Mediterranean Beach Ge’la Beach Trumpeldor Beach 21 Ὀ AC Sea Frishman Beach INFORMATION Tourist InformationCentre.... Surf-Drink-Play...... Surf-Drink-Play...... Surf-Drink-Play...... Steimatzky...... (see 41) Steimatzky...... Private Link...... Momo’s Bar...... (see27) Mizrahi Bank...... (see40) Masarik...... Lametayel...... (see 40) Kibbutz ProgramCentre...... Irish Embassy...... (see8) German Embassy...... French Embassy...... Dr Ayaldan...... (see40) Branch PostOffice...... Branch PostOffice...... Branch PostOffice...... Bauhaus Centre...... Bank Leumi...... American Express...... 16 ( x Gordon

Beach Allenby St Allenby 41 35 23

642 2752;www.tau.ac.il; Geula St Geula Herbert Samuel Esplanade 5

18 34 Trumpeldor St Trumpeldor 28 Yemenite 44 24 Quarter HaYarkon St

Idels 37 2 42 26 7 on 1

St Sh Ben Yehuda St ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ 6 27 a HaCarmel St l 29 om 33 19 Cemetery 36 B 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Aleichem St 117 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

9 Mendele St Mendele

31 Frishman St Frishman Carmel Market 1HotelMetropolitan...... D1 A3 C2 D1 C1 C1 B1 B1 D2 B1 B1 A2 C2 C1 B2 B2

Mapu St 11

43

Allenby St Allenby Bezalel St Bograshov Market

EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Tourist Police...... (see16) Supersol Supermarket...... Basserie M&R...... Sky Hostel...... Mugraby Hostel...... Momo’s Hostel...... Lusky SuitesHotel...... Kikar DizengoffApartments...... Hayarkon 48Hostel...... Gordon InnGuestHouse...... Surf Point...... Le-an TicketAgency...... Web Stop...... US Embassy...... Hall...... Tourist InformationCentreCity

Gordon St Gordon Sheinkin St Sheinkin 22 Ὀ Ὀ Dizengoff Pinsker St Sq David Circle Magen 12 20 3 of the Jewish Diaspora of the Jewish recommended The MUSEUMS Sights Diaspora (see below ). oftheJewish GoldmanMuseum to seetheon-siteNahum Beit Hatefutsoth, 2 Klausner St, Matiyahu Gate, Ramat Aviv; Ramat Gate, Beit Hatefutsoth, 2 KlausnerSt, Matiyahu Tchernikovski 25 32 Dizengoff St

Dizengoff St 13 Centre

4 Zamenhoff Reines St 40

King George V15 St Ben ZIon Ave ZIon Ben

31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 St

D1 B1 D1 B2 B3 B2 B2 C2 B2 A3 B1 A3 C1 B2 A2 Dizengoff St Dizengoff Shlomo HaMelekh St TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Taste ofLife...... Tal’s Bagels...... El Al...... (see 1) ...... Ilan’s Bikes...... Arkia...... Centre...... Opera TowerShopping Dizengoff Centre...... Habima Theatre...... Cinematheque...... Molly Bloom’s...... Minzar...... Mike’s Place...... Buzz Stop......

400m 0.2miles 0 0 HaNevi'im St HaNevi'im

Nahum Goldman Museum Goldman Museum Nahum (

x Tarsat Blvd Culture Halls of www.lonelyplanet.com 39 10 646 2020; www.bh.org.il; City Hall 14 Chen Ave Rabin 17 Sq Habima Sq Memorial D

Ibn Gvirol St Rabin Zeitlin

Daniel Frisch St 30 Museum ofArt

Kaplan St To HaShalom Train Station To TelAviv

Ha'Arba'a St 33 32 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 8 38 (500m) B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 A2 C2 D3 D3 B1 B3 A2 A2 B2 C2 (1km) spices. Nearby fresh fruitsandvegetables, hotbreads and the more of aromaticandenticingstalls brand-name clothingandtrainers toreach Push pastthefirst few metres of knock-off tors of Tel Aviv’s location. MiddleEastern the few placesinthecitythatreminds visi- other street performers. crafts market and fillswithbuskers and afternoon andFridaymidday,ithosts a ionable cafésandartyshops.On Tuesday precinctbusy pedestrianised fullof fash- around theTel Qasilearchaeological site. (glass, ceramics,folklore etc)constructed consistsofmuseum, 11themedcollections bus No27fromthecentralstation. Take busNo25fromKingGeorge VStor versity, 2.5kmnorthof theYarkon River. exile. It’sonthegroundsof Tel Aviv Uni- chronicling 2500years of in 5656; www.suzannedellal.org.il; 5Yechieli St) 6pm Wed) adult/student 34/24NIS; www.lonelyplanet.com for aprestigious address. the choice area forintellectual Jews looking bourhoods. Inthe late 19th centuryitwas most upmarket andcharacter-filled neigh- isoneofand historichouses, Tel Aviv’s Lovely Tsedek, Neve withits narrowstreets NEVE TSEDEK flavour,oriental the ism of therest of Tel Aviv. Imbuedwith an atoddswiththeclean-cut modern- seems cobbled streets andcrumblingbuildings The Yemenite Quarter’s mazeof narrow, YEMENITE QUARTER Shepherdess gem of thecollectionisvanGogh’s Pollock feature the prominently,though by Picasso,Matisse, Gauguin,Degasand some fine20thcenturyavant-garde. Works and post-Impressionist works,aswell as perb permanentcollectionof Impressionist for festivals, as exhibits andcultural events, asa venue school and cultural centre, serves &Sat) Thu, 10am-2pmFri Aviv;St, Ramat adult/student33/22NIS; & Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, 10am-4pmSat) & Thu,10am-2pmFri, dent 40/32NIS; Ave; adult/stu- www.tamuseum.com; 27ShaulHaMelekh Tel ofArt Aviv Museum IsraelMuseum Eretz The Suzanne Dellal Centre hasdioramas,filmsanddisplays h (1889). 10am-4pm Mon&Wed,10am-8pmTue Nahalat Binyamin Street BinyaminStreet Nahalat h , southof theDiaspora

( x Carmel Market Carmel 10am-4pm Sun-Tue, 10am-

Mp p298; (Map 641 5244;2ChaimLevanon

ishometoasu- Mp p298; (Map h 9am-3pm Sun- x , aformer isoneof 607 7000; x isa The 510 9pm Sat) shoe rental 12NIS; Ave; www.kir.co.il;42 Rokakh admission&harness50NIS, month, plus70NIS registration fee. gramme thatcharges around 500NISper h St;admission10NIS; 36Rokakh www.rokach-house.co.il; Danit Tours 10am-7pm Tue, 10am-5pmSat) 10am-2pmFri, adult/child 20/10NIS; St;admission 1970; www.gutmanmuseum.co.il; 21Rokakh the century Tel Aviv. street Onthesame is video andexhibitsoutlininglife in19th- p300 Gordon Ulpan Gordon Courses e h T Activities home ofShimonRokakh weekends, youcanvisitthehistoric1887 murals andspendasunnyafternoon. On well asarelaxing placetolookatartistic your carina carpark. to pay around 45to50NIS per dayto keep if itoffers you’ll need parking. Otherwise, If youhave your owncar,askyour hotel Sleeping can rent equipmentfrom for swimmingandsurfing.Windsurfers costs 1500NISfortwohours atsea. Aviv Port.Foragroupof upto13peopleit andmotorboattrips fromtheTelruns sailing for apricey100NISperhour. the 20th-centuryIsraeliartist. displays 200lively andfanciful worksby . Avoid overcrowded Saturdays. .net.il; LaSalle7,Tel Aviv) agency to 120NISorinadvancefrom ticket ongamedayfor40NIS atthestadium downtown busNos20,42or67. Buy your reached GanNationalStadium, from Ramat matches are playedOctobertoJuneat football team, theMaccabee Tel Aviv. Big Friday at4.45pmandSaturday4.30pm. matchesUltimate are Frisbee heldhere every ball courts,askate parkandtrampolines. Budding yachties may want to contact Budding yachties maywanttocontact At Tel Aviv’s mainbeach isafineplace The Tel Avivans are passionate abouttheir 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, &Sat) 10am-2pmFri x Nahum GutmanMuseum Nahum MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••TelMEDITERRANEAN Aviv Olympus ClimbingWall

islocated intheSportek, alongthe (Map (Map p300 ; 517 0099; www.surf-point.co.il; Nekhemia Beach) Nekhemia 517 0099;www.surf-point.co.il; Sportek

( x

(Map (Map p298 ; (Map p298 ) alsohasbasket- h 052 3400128;www.danit.co.il) x h 5-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am- 2-8pmFri, 524 7373;101DizengoffSt) 10am-4pm Sun,Mon,Wed,Thu, Hebrew-language pro- x

Mp p298; (Map 522 3095;hadas.goren@012

Mp p298; (Map

(Map (Map p298 ; Surf Point Surf x Le-an ticket ticket Le-an x , witha , which 516 8042; , which , which 699 0910; 699 0910; x

. (Map (Map 301 516

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 55; www.sleepinisrael.com; 17GordonSt;sUS$30-40,dUS$40- rooms. could netyouasmalldiscountondouble free breakfast. itswebsite Bookingthrough ing acleankitchen, great showers anda beach andhasexcellentfacilitiesinclud- this hostel sitsjusttwoblocksfromthe ai .hayarkon48.com; 48HaYarkon St;dm47NIS,d185-225NIS; and . season apply mainlytothesummerhigh rates the highest cording totheseason; placesvary ac- Note thatpricesforthese MIDRANGE Jaffa. innearby consider staying whopreferThose solitudemay want to shoppingcentrestaurants, andnightspots. trated nearthecentralbeaches, trendy res- Tel Aviv’s lively budget hostels are concen- BUDGET 302 through the Internetthrough fordiscounted price. safes andkitchenettes. Bookcable TV, and quality.All four typesof units have unitsarecontained forprice hardtobeat self- comfortable Sq,these ing Dizengoff tioned have suffered some ignoblefate. with atouch more privacy. rather more thanitsneighbour, but staid One blocknorthof Momo’s,thisplaceis i out shower170/150NIS,dwith/without 190/170NIS; .mugraby-hostel.com; 30AllenbySt;dm43NIS, swith/with- No 4 from the central bus station. No 4 fromthe central busstation. room. Allrates include breakfast. Take bus Cheaper shared roomshave ashared bath- well-kept and friendlydowntown option. ontheroofmer youcansleep for35NIS. term workers, have dorms.Insum- separate married couples),andtravellers andlong- of thekitchen. Men andwomen(including breakfast includealight anduse tion. Rates bar-caféhas anattached andacentralloca- d US$75-90,steUS$140; 1151; www.hotel-apt.com;89DizengoffSt; s US$60-90, a hostel.com; 28BenYehuda St;dm40NIS,d100-130NIS; walla.com; 34BenYehuda St;dm/d45/100NIS; Momo’s Hostel Kikar Dizengoff Apartments Dizengoff Kikar Hayarkon 48Hostel Gordon InnGuestHouse Mugraby Hostel Mugraby Sky Hostel pna ) ) MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Tel MEDITERRANEAN Aviv Grubbyfallbackshouldtheaforemen- Thiscolourful,character-filled place ) Renovated fromaconverted school,

) Thishybrid hostel/hotel isa Mp p300; (Map

(Map p300; (Map

Mp p300; (Map pnai

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x Mp p300; (Map 620 0044;skyhostel@ 528 7471;www.momos

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ais St;dUS$166-214; hotels.com; 10Kaufmann rol St;dishes 50-100NIS; one of thebestchoices. andbeach access,thisis parkland setting American-style brew-pubs. Japanesething fromsheikh fusion jointsto bars are and qualityof restaurants. Spanishtapas the biggest European citiesforitsdiversity Despite its small sizeTel Aviv canrivaleven RESTAURANTS Eating ais sancehotels.com; 121HaYarkon St;dUS$145-165; Park; dUS$260-355; HaAtzma’utorIndependence [email protected]; Gan own. Allhave Internet wi-fi access. get abetter dealthanyou’llmanage onyour agoodtravel Generally, agentseason. will the midrange places,rates change withthe fromthebeach and,aswith a quickshuffle Most of Tel Aviv’s just top-endpalacesrise TOP END 127; .hotelmetropolitan.co.il; 11-15TrumpeldorSt; s/dUS$105/ /ami; 152HaYarkon St;s/d/steUS$50/65/80; pna .luskysuites-htl.co.il; 84HaYarkon St;d/steUS$70/110; of things. known, butalongwalkfromthe centre with sea views,others withbalconies. with sea ter of luxuryhotels hasdecentrooms,some This friendly,ramblingoptionneartheclus- than the standard rooms. than thestandard has afew suites thatcostabout50%more stays busy even until the wee hours. until thewee busy even It’sstays chicken that dishes, in adimly litbrasserie upmouth-watering steak and titude) serve French ‘matradies’ (complete withsurly at- even squeeze intothetop-endcategory. squeeze even and kitchenette. could The‘penthouse’ appointed rooms,somewithanensuite sandy beach.sandy better locationoverlookinging aslightly a byhav-hotels, thisonedistinguishesitself Lusky Suites Hotel Lusky Suites Renaissance Brasserie M&R Brasserie Tel Aviv Hilton Hotel Metropolitan Hotel Ami Hotel Dan Panorama pna en vogue, ) ) ) Reasonably comfortable andwell Reasonablycomfortable A smart lobby leads upto well- Asmartlobbyleads Set amid other high-rise luxury amid otherhigh-rise Set

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barbecue sauce), yogurtsandshakes.barbecue sauce), barbecue twistburgers (veggie burgers with dough) masa best fishrestaurant inTel Aviv. looking theharbour,thisisarguably the calamari, withanexcellentlocationover- large portionsof grilledfish,shrimpand Port; dishes70-90NIS; Port; much from the usual beer accompaniments. much fromtheusualbeer stray ale. The foodisexcellent,butdoesn’t 500ml). TrytheMasters, a7%alcohol dark sip fourkindsof designerlagers (26NISfor Aviv’s poshestbar-restaurant. Here, yuppies Just southof theShalom Tower,thisisTel Rothschild Ave; dishes50-100NIS;12.30pm-1am; fiore St;dishes50-100NIS hood atmosphere. a neighbour-celebrities, butstillmaintains placeforlocal quietly knownasameeting www.lonelyplanet.com carnival-cum-fashion show. Bakeries and forits continuous pavementside seating provide andsandwiches, lent salads ring- Yehudaof Ben andAllenby Sts. ern fastfoodisfound alongthebusyreaches The heaviest concentrationof MiddleEast- QUICK EATS St; dishes30-45NIS; ian hotdogs, gie shwarma,steamed vegetables, vegetar- vegan veg- thatincludestasty does This place,runbyAfrican-Americans, to Japanese lunch for59NIS. businessset casserole seafood ranges fromLatin-spiced winning combination.Theexcellentmenu sushiandmargaritas intoa fame, thisfuses Aviv’s answerto SushiSambaof Manhattan dishes 15-40NIS; a Moroccanhotel lobbyfromthe1920s. steaks andburgers. Thisoneisdoneuplike restaurant withfinefoodofferings, mostly theFishermanisanotherswanky of Benny Israeli wine(100NIS). gowellwithabottle(ortwo)ofselections Carefully prepared meat, veggie andfish bar,locatedtapas neartheCinemateque. beat slowlyinthebackgroundof thisglossy gers 30-40NIS; Agadir Hotel Agadir Tapéo Benny theFisherman The city’s many cafés, most serving excel- The city’s manycafés,most serving Tel Aviv Brewhouse Kyoto Salsa Taste ofLife

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dishes 18NIS) sign and the tables onthestreet.sign andthetables Hebrew only,solookoutfortheCoca-Cola its hummusthebestinIsrael.Thesignis when anationalnewspaperrecently voted bean paste). Furthercredibility wasearned are after excellenthummusandfuul(fava by St; toppings 18NIS) what’s hot,notand gone. aficionados, butit’shardtokeep trackof the least-expensive beer optionforserious the dive spotsonupperAllenbyStremain be themostfashionable. Travellers’ bars and along Sheinkin St,are considered locallyto of AllenbyandLilienblumSts,those The bars clustered aroundtheintersection Drinking Supersol supermarket For one-stopshopping,trytheconvenient anywhere are Market. soldattheCarmel Some of thebestfresh andvegetables SELF-CATERING informal foodfairalongRothschild Ave. sorts of fare whenlocalrestaurants upan set On Saturdayafternoon, all youcansample arenut stalls commonforpeopleonthego. claim tobeing thebiggest in the Middle opportunities, thisbar makeseye-contact Built in the shapeof an‘H’ formaximum night Sat) h 6 Montefiore St; lish, solookforthe ‘LibrosenEspañol’sign. ina30s crowd.ThereReels isnosigninEng- quarter of the Latin someothercontinent. chrome thisonebelongsin andneonlights, Tel Aviv: where mostplacesare allsleek including chicken wings, burgers andfries. of pubgrubscrawledontoablackboard, dance floor. There isalsoadecentchoice the street-side patioorthesmall indoor mix of rock,blues andrapforpatronson yuppie barisgoingstrong.DJsplay astrong Allenby-area bars have thisraucous closed, gie toppings. up withyourchoice of cream cheese orveg- Ave; Tal’s Bagels Golden Bar Hummus Ashkara Lanski Shoshana Johnson 7am-midnight Sun-Thu, 8.30pm-mid- 7am-4pmFri, h h MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••TelMEDITERRANEAN Aviv 6pm-late) . 6pm-late)

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES uel Esplanade; attracts amore upmarket crowd. brew manufactured inRamallah). (includingTaybeh,quality beer amicro- to tranceandavant-garde hiphop)and out avarietyof music(smash-upsandpunk scenester bariswellknownforpumping lasts from4pmto8pmnightly. Irish stew andshepherd’spie. Happy hour bar menufeatures such Gaelicoptionsas that workatnearbyembassies.The decent is popularwithbothlocalsanddiplomats handful of IrishpubsinIsrael,MollyBloom’s a hangover cure). (which are often administered as grub, awidechoice of andfullEnglish beer and dawnwatchers whoappreciate pub US embassy,thisplacecaters owls tonight from 4pm to 9pm, and all day on Saturday. from 4pmto9pm,andalldayonSaturday. and,especially,beer.tails Happy hour lasts also asizablemenuof grill-stylemeals,cock- from10.30pm.There’sbands playnightly the placetogoforlive music. Blues androck Entertainment Entertainment h Samuel Esplanade; from 5pmto10pm. inbeer.ally specialises Happy hourextends is abohemian-style coffee barthatactu- barmen comeintoswapwarstories. whenTelSunday isbartender’s night, Aviv’s wewon’ttrytodispute. anassertion East, 304 many of which double as danceclubs, are theques range from50NIS to 100NIS. Bars, impress. Cover charges fordedicated disco- that youdress dawn clubs butit’sessential to Tel Aviv hasanumber of excellent, party-till- NIGHTCLUBS soak uptheatmosphere. which isagreat peopleand placeto meet café districtisundoubtedly Sheinkin St, long.Thefunkiest you crawlingall night the mind-boggling varietyof spotscankeep Tel Aviv iswellknownfor itsnightlife, and St; St; h h h Molly Bloom’s Mish Mish Mish Shesek Buzz Stop Mike’s Place Mike’s Minzar 24hr) 9pm-late) MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Tel MEDITERRANEAN Aviv 8pm-late) 4pm-late Sat-Thu, noon-lateFri) Set backfromthemainstreet, this Set

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h Mp p300; (Map x x 11am-late) x x 566 9559;31Yavne St; , asuggestively named 602 0426; Old Port; admission 602 0426;OldPort; 681 3313; 17 HaNagarim St; 681 3313;17HaNagarim 544 4194; Old Port; admission admission 544 4194;OldPort; x x Ifyouonlyhave the www.lonelyplanet.com x 560 2006;17 Montefiore 560 8852;32Rothschild Plug &Play Thisistheflag- 606 0800;1Ha’Arba’a Thislarge

h ( x noon- 527 Blvd, HabimaSq) only. Thetheatre isinthe Englishtranslationon Thursdaystaneous atre performancesinHebrew, withsimul- h www.elal.co.il; 32BenYehuda St) (23NIS, 1½ hours) 15to 20 min- every 10minutes; every forHaifahour) roughly taxis. you’ll have toresort toservice on the4th floor. Note thatduringShabbat the poorlysignposted stalls use and citybuses informationdesk.Suburban also anefficient departfrom the6thfloor,wherebuses there’s rakhim Sts; rakhim ( Theatre New Cameri THEATRE for women. formances: MondayformenandTuesday There are occasionalprofessional stripper- oncushions. deck which hasfloorseating www.lonelyplanet.com (Map p298; (Map From Tel Aviv’s enormous BUS airport, usuallyon Most travellers flyinandoutof Ben- Gurion AIR &Away There Getting this service, butit’sworthasking. this service, At thetimeof writing nootherairlineoffered mestic airlineis north of theYarkon River. Theotherdo- except Saturday)fromSdeDov airport, daily) andHaifa (442NIS,20minutes, daily toEilat(370NIS,50minutes,has flights terminal the daybefore atthe theirflight airportcanpre-check bags from Ben-Gurion DJ dancepartiesare Thursday. heldevery dive, whichthe seedy mayappealtosome. renovated,supposedly it’sstillquite though Sha’ul HaMelekh Sts) Sha’ul HaMelekh Centre, cnrLeonardo.cameri.co.il; GoldaMeir daVinci& language translation. on Thursday, English- withsimultaneous atre company,Habima stages performances x Ben Yehuda St) x Habima Theatre Buses leaveBuses forJerusalem (17.70NIS, one Minerva Travellers leaving Israelon ElAlflights 699 2222; [email protected]; 74HaYarkon699 2222;[email protected]; St) 10pm-late) 692 7777)

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*5770; www.israrail.org.il/english) ing every 20 to 30 minutes. 20to 30minutes. ing every take busNo 475(11.70NIS),depart- station, the opposite direction. From thecentralbus Merkaz Italsorunshourlyin trainstation). the Arlosoroff bus terminal (nearTel Aviv bus makes stopsattheSheraton Moriahand day andnoonto11pm Saturday.Enroute the 11pm SundaytoThursday, 6amto7pmFri- airport (18NIS,45 minutes) from6amto Dan Panorama hotel ( p302 ) toBen-Gurion Bus No222runshourlyonthehour fromthe TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting station, Tel Aviv themain hastwotrainstations: TRAIN 20% more fare. thantheweekday St justeastof AllenbyStandcharge about On Saturday,theyleave fromHaHamashal run toJerusalem (20NIS)andHaifa (25NIS). The SHERUT departs at12.30am). from 6.30amto5pm(anovernight service (65NIS, five hours), more orlesshourly twice hourlyfrom6amto9pm;andEilat utes; Tiberias (42NIS,2½hours) onceor (12NIS, 3.30am to11pm daily). the airport from Tel Aviv Merkaz station Sts. losoroff Allenby, King George V,Dizengoff andAr- there, take busNo61,which travels along northeastofstation thecentre. Toget terminal,losoroff adjoinsthecentraltrain p355. from thestation. bus terminal, which isatwo-minute walk north fromDizengoff SttotheArlosoroff from thecentre, take busNos61or62 hours, hourly).Toreach Tel Aviv Merkaz (25.50NIS,1¼ travel asfarBe’ersheva (38NIS, 1¾hours). Heading south,you can to Akko(34NIS,1½hours) and Nahariya from 6amto8pmSundayFriday, andon (12.50NIS, 25minutes), more orlesshourly Haifa (24.50NIS, one hour),viaNetanya From Tel Aviv Merkaz, youcantravel to HaShalom station At least two trains per hour also service At least two trainsperhour alsoservice Tel Aviv’s the Ar- busstation, second For information on buses to Egypt, see toEgypt,For informationonbuses see MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••TelMEDITERRANEAN Aviv sheruts Tel Aviv Merkaz outside the central bus station outsidethecentralbusstation

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES what staid one-hour stroll. what staid ifsome- door cafés,making for apleasant studios, galleries andasprinkling of out- traders have replaced longsincebeen byart community of longshoremen andmarket ist attraction.The onceactive residential andtour- asanoutdoor museum served commercial port, nowrestored andpre- ofsands years athriving, tumble-down of theadjacentsea. of andthe boththeenigmaticMiddleEast harbourside suburbwhere you’llget ataste Tel Aviv. swallowed up–byitsneighbouring upstart –and superseded Arab townhasnowbeen nence asamajor portcity,butthislargely During Solomon’stime,itcameto promi- Jaffa (Yafo inHebrew) inhisownhonour. founded anewcitythatwashumbly named his sons,Japheth, headedforthe coastand flood of worldwide proportions,oneof After Noah wascatapulted tofameina x JAFFA for tripsanywhere withinthecentralcity. country (see p357 ). Planon20NISto25NIS theentire tendenciesrip-off thatpervade Tel Aviv fromthesame suffer specialtaxis TAXI central busstation 5 alsoreaches fromthe Centre Dizengoff Yehuda Sts.BusNo andnorthernDizengoff to theReadingTerminal viaAllenby,Ben which travels fromthecentralbusstation The citycentre iswellcovered bybusNo4, bus travel aroundTel Aviv anditssuburbs. yomi) but for12NISyoucanbuyared pass work of routes. Thesingle fare is5.20NIS, Tel Aviv net- followanefficient citybuses BUS p300; (Map try it’s easytoget aroundbybike. Forrentals, Tel Aviv relatively isflatandtraffic so light BICYCLE 306 The centralattraction is Sights &Activities rental costsaround50NIS. www.shvoong.co.il; 245DizengoffSt) Today, it’saquaintandmostlyChristian 03 /pop46,400 MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Jaffa MEDITERRANEAN Shuli & Mike’s Bikes Bikes Shuli &Mike’s which allowsonedayof unlimited x 629 9901;44BograshovSt)

( x 639 4444) Mp p298; (Map Old Jaffa . or . A24-hour x , forthou- Ilan’s Bikes ﻳﺎﻓﺎ יפוﻳﻓ 544 2292; (hofshi

ing tour nargilehs and silver jewellery. with amore flavour, exotic,Oriental selling Jaffa. Themarket alsohasanarrayof shops market), which makes uptheheartof new 246NIS) 8OleiZion St;dm40NIS, s147-226NIS, d168- jaffahostel; h St; admissionadult/child/student/senior24/14/20/20NIS; minutes onSaturdays from 11amto7pm. well-designed free mapsof thearea. Centre acts asOldJaffa’s defacto Monastery dominated bytheorange-painted ringed byrestaurants andgalleriesbut Kedumim Kikar ruins datingbackatleast3300years. archaeological excavations reveal Egyptian orama of theTel Aviv beachfront; ongoing Gardens in visitors), toagrassyknollcalled ties (which mayreopen pendinganincrease ofthe boardedupMuseum Jaffa Antiqui- seum on handtoprovide somecommentary. Hellenistic andRomaneras;aguide some partiallyexcavated dwellingsfromthe derground forces.Thedisplayiscentred on liberation fromBritishrulebyJewish un- sion tovariousforeign armies,untilits1948 byandsubmis- itsdevelopment ago, through 4000years nearly settlement as aCanaanite scribes thehistoryof Jaffa fromitsbeginnings Old Jaffa Hostel Sleeping ( Wednesday. Also worthwhileisa locallyknownasthe panse new owners atadesultorymarketlike ex- Such treasures andmore are waitingfor tic monkey inatophatandtrench coat? How aboutasix-foot grinningplas- tall namesake andowner, IlanaGoor. stone, glass,bronzeandironsculpture of its grims. Itfeatures thedesignandwooden, 18th-century stonehostel forJewish pil- x Normally, afree three-hour Close by,inanunderground Close chamber, the From thegardens,afootpathleadsto As youenter fromRoslanSt,walkpast A worthwhilestopisthe Fancy anoldbootorrustyxylophone? 10am-4pm Sat-Thu, 10am-6pmFri) 682 9070;admission20NIS)

( Ina beautiful oldTurkish home, the , offering uptouristinformation and x departsfromthe , where an 683 7676;www.ilanagoor.com; Dagim 4Mazal . Thesmallgiftshoponthesquare Visitors Centre Visitors

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and bakingitintheoven. andolives, stirringintomato,cheese a pitta, which involves crackingacoupleof on eggs and auniquelyArabpizzalike concoction sambusas from Ami’adSt. worldwide(itrankedhouses No15).Enter included thisplaceinalistof top50guest- h mains from75NIS) and wall hangings – everything isforsale. and wallhangings –everything home theplates, chairs, tables, silverware furnishing, youcouldalsotakethat needs In theunlikely thatyouhave event aroom excellent lassiyogurt drinkwithcardamom. includesan dishes. Thebeverage selection butdabblesinfishand chickenand salads, ket, inlunchtime soups thisplacespecialises , pastriesand legend inIsrael.Inadditiontoallsortsof 45NIS) andfelafelhole-in-the-wall tamiya stands. Around thefleamarket you’llfindplentyof area boastnumerousoutdoorrestaurants. fish, andbothMifrazShlomo Stand theport For Israelis,Jaffa’s mainculinaryattractionis Eating and are decorated withhistoricArabicfurniture private rooms, airy dormsandcomfortable large barandcommonroom,aswellthe Jaffa isbothfriendlyand atmospheric. The www.lonelyplanet.com set youbackjust44NIS.Don’tmissit! set will potato bread, lambanda stuffed salads, ‘complete couscous’spread withcouscous, business lunch, you’llpay64NIS;amassive For an enormous North Africandelights. Gabso familywhipsuparange of Libyanand andspices),the capsicum,tomatosauce egg, shakshuka Tel Aviv area. Alongwiththeeponymous which average 35NISto 40NIS. budget canstick tothe starters andsalads, on atight ing lobster from 220NIS).Those and other mussels trout,mullet, calamari, sea blast, serving 35-50NIS) salad andhummusfor20NIS. salad chips, uptwoeggs, which serves ular stand, Dr Shakshuka Bernhardt Show Itzik Bar Puaa Said AbuElafia&Sons 24hr) objets d’art Part retro-style caféandpartflea mar-

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( x 681 2340;7Yefet St; (locallycalled Try thispop- (includ- recently Nos 18or25fromAllenbySt,andget off rol St,busNo18fromDizengoffStor busNo26fromIbnGvi-the trainstation), Yehuda busNo10fromBen station, St(or tively, take busNo46fromthecentral strollto Old Jaffa.2.5km seafront Alterna- From thecentre of Tel Aviv, it’sapleasant &Away There Getting Jaffa Harbour 4 1 3 2 5 JAFFA Kedumim

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES other cities. many topervade out the tensions that seem and Muslims live and worktogether with- laxed attitude, inwhich Jews, Christians with what appears tobe Israel’smostre- it’s thisairof prosperitythat provides it country’s technological industry. Perhaps student townand asolidcornerstone of the largest content withitslotasa city,seems Chen St;s/dUS$40/56; Ha’Atzma’ut Sq;dm/s/dUS$10/25/30; ism and mystique andTel Aviv buzzeswithhedon- views. beaches, promenadesandpanoramic Gardens,andahost of white-sandBaha’i a trendy Colony,thelandmark German and takes inabusyindustrialport area, down thewoodedslopesof MtCarmel The attractive cityof multilevel Haifa spills x HAIFA inKhadera. buses Nazareth orTiberias, tochange you’llneed 1¼ hours). Toreach Megiddo, Caesarea, (20NIS, onehour)andJerusalem (32NIS, 30minutesand every toandfromHaifa and fromTel Aviv (14.80NIS,30minutes), 15minutes every to runroughly Buses &Away There Getting Jews. You’llfindthe recentrun byNetanya’s influxof French manyofshops, cafésandpatisseries, them mainstreetestrianised that’slinedwith beaches fers approximately 11km of thefinest As resort, asun-and-sand of- Netanya x NETANYA the clocktower. take busNo10fromimmediately northof at theclocktower. Toreturn to the centre, 308 Hotel Orit Hotel the the budget accommodationof choice is Ha’Atzma’ut Sq. tive. includebreakfast. Rates Christians, isafairlygood-value alterna- Fri) 7286; fax8841348; inakioskatthesouthwestcornerof While Jerusalem isswathedinhistorical In aprimepositionnearthebeach, 04 /pop270,400 09 /pop167,000 MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Netanya MEDITERRANEAN Atzma’ut Hostel Atzma’ut inIsrael.There isalsoalively ped-

joie devivre, ( x 861 6818; www.israelsvan.com/orit; 21 861 6818;www.israelsvan.com/orit; h pn 8.30am-4pm Sun-Thu, 9am-noon

( x Haifa, Israel’sthird- tourist office tourist 862 1315; 2 Ussishkin St, 862 1315;2Ussishkin ) , runbySwedish ﻧﺘﺎﻧﻴﺎ נתניהﻧﺎﻴ ﺣﻴﻔﺎ חיפהﺣﻔ pai

( x free free 882 ) . walking tours. walking Tourism usefulpublications,including several officedistributes thistourist Gardens, foot oftheBaha’i .tour-haifa.co.il; Ave) 48Ben-Gurion Immediatelyatthe the dizzilysloped The 19immaculately kept terraces of BAHA’I GARDENS Sights Bookshop Steimatzky Centre Medical Rambam Wed, 8am-noonFri) h postoffice Main ISSTA Association Development Haifa Tourism computers andwi-fiforlaptopusers. per hr10NIS; Aldara travellers cheques. on MaPalyam willchange andBen-Gurion and othershoppingdistricts.Postoffices find lotsof change placesaroundHadar branches are bothonJaffa Rd,and you’ll andHapoalim Leumi The Bank main Bank Information bars Centre andeateries. Carmel university, exclusive residences andtrendy at thetopof ishometothe themountain Hadar district Centre district.TheCarmel Nisnas andthepredominantly Russian the busyArabcommercialdistrictof Wadi Area, alsoknownasdowntown.Uphill lie or boatare ushered intoHaifa inthePort of Newarrivalsby bus,train MtCarmel. Haifa occupiesthree maintiers ontheslopes Orientation 16 Herzl St; 16 Herzl 150; BatGalim) Shrine of the Bab Shrine imposing landmark, thegolden-domed Haifa’s andwalkways rises fountains most can organise individual entry. pilgrims,however, well inadvance. Baha’i Wednesday), which must bepre-booked public onlyonguided tours (dailyexcept the gardensare accessible tothegeneral a wonder. Apartfromthetoptwotiers, p310; x student IDcards. andsells St)Booksairtickets Hakranot Bldg,20Herzl Amid the perfectly manicured gardens, 8am-12.30pm &3.30-6pmSun-Tue &Thu,8am-1pm 831 3131;admissionfree; x (Map (Map p310 ; andacitymap(4NIS),whichoutlinesfourthemed (Map (Map p310 ; 853 5605,tollfree h h 10am-7pm Sun-Thu, 10am-3pmFri) 10am-8pm) Coffee shopwithon-line x (Map (Map p310 ; 19HaPalyam Ave; x

(Map (Map p310 ; 868 2227;www.issta.co.il; Bei 852 0222; 47 Ben Gurion Ave;852 0222;47BenGurion (Map (Map p310 ; Baha’i Gardens Baha’i Mp p309; (Map x h www.lonelyplanet.com 1 800305-090;www h 9am-5pm) A GuidetoHaifa 9am-noon) x x 866 4058;

are truly 1-700-505- Mp p310 ; (Map (Map (Map . Com- & 3-6pm) come torelax amidthegreenery. with ‘hands-on’, where families ture. TheeasiestaccesstoStella Maris isvia In 1836,itwasreplaced bythepresent struc- destroyedbytheTurks. but wassubsequently forthetroopsof hospital Napoleonin1799, asa Itwaslater used stronghold. Crusader asa12th-century was originallyestablished & Monastery The neo-Gothic ELIJAH’S CAVE STELLA MARIS MONASTERY & HaPesalim;(Gan HaZiyonutBlvd) Gardens isthe shorts orbare shoulders). remove anddress theirshoes modestly(no nearby Akko. Visitors totheshrinemust of Ali;see MizraHussein p315 ) outside (the otheristhetomb five millionBaha’is of thetwomostsacred sites fortheworld’s design,andisconsideredand Oriental one prophet, Al-Bab, integrates bothEuropean pleted in1953,thistombof theBaha’i www.lonelyplanet.com Haifa Terminal (2km) Hof HaCarmel Train Station; Southern Bus 1 3 2 HAIFA ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Near the upper entrance to the Baha’i Near theupperentrancetoBaha’i HaCarmel To Beach

Hubert Humphrey Rd HaHagana Ave HaHagana , withitswonderfulpainted ceiling, M editran ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ AC

Cemetery Zarfat p309; (Map

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Allenby Rd Allenby

Rd HaYam

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Bat Galim

HaNassi Ave HaNassi HaZiyonut

Gan Ha’em

Rothschild Park Ave 8 11 Ben-Gurion Ave)11 Ben-Gurion the grottoknownas hours: opening allwiththesame ing museums, three days)alsoadmitsyoutothe follow- ticketand ethnology.Thesame (goodfor in one–ancientart,modernandmusic 22NIS; sion free; The MUSEUMS the of JapaneseArt by localartists;thewonderful Tue, 10am-3pmSat) 10am-1pmFri, 22/11/16/16NIS; .hms.org.il; 26ShabtaiLevi St;adult/senior/child/student Take busNo44or45fromdowntown. favoured picnicsite forlocalChristianArabs. theistic faiths, andtheadjacentgardenisa It nowattractspilgrimsof allthree mono- of asreported Ba’al, in1KingsXVIII.20–40 JezebelQueen after slayingthe 450priests the prophetElijahhidfromKingAhaband Carmel Centre Map (p310) See CentralHaifa

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Kanyon Mall (3km); Lev HaMifratz Lev (3km); Mall Kanyon St Ha'Atzmaut

Bus Terminal (3km); Akko (22km); Akko (3km); Terminal Bus To (3km); Grand (3km); Airport Haifa To TRANSPORT SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION eta u tto...... C1 Central BusStation...... B2 Cable CarUpperStation...... B1 Cable CarLowerStation...... B2 Monastery...... Stella MarisCarmeliteChurch& B2 National MaritimeMuseum...... B1 Elijah’s Cave...... B1 Museum...... Clandestine Immigration&Naval C1 Rambam MedicalCentre...... Hadar

Elijah’s Cave Elijah’s x Herzl St Herzl Mp p310; (Map 1km 0.5miles 0 0

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Nahariya (31km) Nahariya HaPalyam 833 5970;oneway/return 16/

x Mp p310; (Map

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852 3255;www Bar Yehuda Bar x Haifa Bay

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Central Haifa 310 Park &Zoo Barbarossa Garden (300m) Malbin Sculpture To Ursula Gan Ha’em Seafood (200m); (2.5km) To Jako 4 6 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL HAIFA

18 HaNassi Ave HaNassi HaZiyonut

M COAST ••CentralHaifa MEDITERRANEAN

oriah HaYam Derekh 16 Technology...... National MuseumofScience,Planning& Haifa CityMuseum...... Haifa ArtMuseum...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Steimatzky...... Post Office...... Post Office...... Post Office...... Main PostOffice...... ISSTA...... Haifa TourismDevelopmentAssociation.. Bank Leumi...... Bank HaPoalim...... Aldara...... INFORMATION Gardens 17

Gan Ha'Em Baha’i Blvd St Nof Ye'fe

Dan Carmel

HaGefen St HaGefen

ὈὈ Ὀ 15 Blvd

30 14 St Abbas AC

HaNissi Ave 22 Universal 29 House of Nof Hotel Gardens

Mané Katz Baha’i Justice Ave HaMeganim Museum Dan Panorama Centre HaLevenon Carmel Centre 4 German Colony Sha'ar 23 St

1 Hillel Hillel

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St Ben-Gurion Ave Shopping

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Allenby

Gardens Masada Elie

zer Eliezer Golomb Golomb St Golomb

Allenby Rd 13 12 11 10 25 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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Herzliya St Herzliya 12 Hess St Hess Wingate Ave Wingate HaZiyonut Boulevard B

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Sha Hashmura 1872...... Felafel Michelle...... Fatoush...... Dinner Rush...... Arab Bazaar...... EATING St CharlesHospice...... Port Inn...... Molada GuestHouse...... Beth ShalomHotel...... Beth RutenbergHostel...... SLEEPING Art...... Tikotin MuseumofJapanese Shrine oftheBab......

HaNeve'im Area Port 20

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Wadi Nisas Rd Nisas Wadi

Khuri St Khuri

HaVankeem St St Jaffa Rd Jaffa

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28 Balfour St St Daniel 33 Solel Boneh

Arlosoroff St Arlosoroff HaNevi'im St

Shmaryahu Levin St 3 St Ha'Atzma'ut Haifa Merkaz

Train Station

34 13 Pevsner 19

10

HeHalutz St HeHalutz Yerushalayim St Yerushalayim 5

27

Hadar St 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 Hassan Shukri St Shukri Hassan

Kikar Paris Nordau St Nordau HaNamal St HaNamal B3 B3 A3 A6 B4 B3 C3 A5 A5 A5 A5 A4 9

Ὀ Ὀ Hayim St Ὀ Ὀ Sha'ar Palmer St DRINKING TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT Haifa FerryPassengerTerminal...... Station...... Entrance toHaifaMerkazTrain Arkia...... Luna...... Achurva...... Greg Coffee...... Bear...... Basement...... Yan Yan...... Jako Seafood...... Hilel St Shapira St 35 26 Kikar Paris

Sirkin Eliyahu St

St 2 32 HaPalyam Ave HaPalyam Nathan Herzl St Herzl

0.2miles 300m 0 0 son

Wadi Salib

Hammam Yehiel St St Haifa Port www.lonelyplanet.com 7

6

HeHalutz Market

Flea al-Pasha

St St 31 D Faisal Sq Museum Railway 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 C2 C2 C3 C4 D3 A6 A6 C3 C3 C3 US$10. From downtown take the metro. and dinner is available for anadditional includebreakfast,gelical Rates guesthouse’. Lutheran‘evan- is abasic butcomfortable na .beth-shalom.co.il; 110 HaNassiAve; s/d/tr US$60/84/108; 105JaffaRd;s/d/trUS$35/60/75) [email protected]; the historyof Mediterranean shipping. Technology on uben Hecht, whomigrated toIsraelin1939. philanthropist, DrRe- donated byBelgian French Impressionist was art.Themuseum tures Israeli archaeology andacollectionof Jaffa Rd;dm/s/d55/180/250NIS; University; admissionfree; 7773; http://research.haifa.ac.il/~hecht/; EshkolTower,Haifa 5NIS; p309; (Map works; andthe Ave) www.lonelyplanet.com and laundry service isavailable for40NIS. and laundryservice and sittingroom,breakfast isanextra20NIS than ahostel. There’s acommunalkitchen tral family-runplacethat’smore like ahotel best budget optionisthisfriendly andcen- Inn Port Sleeping Hotel behindthe Saturday at10.30am;meet tion organises afree guidedwalking touron The Haifa Associa- TourismDevelopment Tours you’ll need to ringthebelltoenter.you’ll need ing breakfast. Thegate isoften locked so and private showers and rates includeafill- Sisters. Rosary RoomsallhaveCatholic fans Patriarchateby theLatin andrun bythe With alovely garden,thisplaceisowned blockaded Palestine. and ’40sattempts tomigrate intoBritish- rael’s naval historyandtheZionists’1930s Fri, 10am-6pmSat) Fri, 4pm Sun,Mon,Wed&Thu,9am-7.30pmTue, 10am-2pm adult/senior/child/student 35/17.50/20/25NIS; .net.il/inmos; Technion Levin St,Hadar; Bldg,Shmaryahu p309; Thu, 10am-7pmTue, 10am-2pmSat) 10am-1pmFri, The A great placetotake kidsisthehands- St CharlesHospice Beth ShalomHotel The anditsuniquecollectionof Far Eastern x h National Museum ofScience,Planning& National Museum

(101 HaNassiAve) ) Clandestine Immigration&NavalMuseum In the Carmel Centre district,this Centre IntheCarmel

853 6622;198AllenbyRd) 8.30am-4pm Sun-Thu) Reuben &EdithHecht Museum Reuben Mp p310; (Map x

Mp p310; (Map 853 6249;204AllenbyRd;adult/child10/ . National Maritime Museum National Maritime x in Carmel Centre. inCarmel

h Mp p310 ; (Map

852 4401; www.portinn.co.il; 34 34 852 4401;www.portinn.co.il; x Mp p310; (Map 10am-4pm Sun, Mon, Wed & 10am-4pm Sun,Mon,Wed& 862 8111;www.netvision commemorates Is- nai , which presents x 837 7481;www x ) 855 3705; Haifa’s

h ( x fea-

9am- (Map (Map Nof 825

noon-8pm Fri &Sat) noon-8pm Fri Ave;Gurion dishes39-105NIS; where there’s alsoanatmosphericpub. wine cellarinthehistoric1872basement, to 80NIS.Aglassfloorreveals theextensive bream mainsaresalmon, ormussel 72NIS or squidstarters cost39NISto55NIS,and location at 11 Moriah in Carmel Centre. Centre. location at11MoriahinCarmel (calamari, craborshrimp).There’s asecond triggerfish andStPeter’s fish)andseafood bream,fish (includingsalmon, bass,shark, as nicetoeatonthe street-side patio. cuisine. weather it’sjust Eastern Inpleasant afusionof Western andMiddle ant serving toush isanatmospheric andpopularrestaur- cushions, nargilehs andcandlelamps,Fa- complete withburgundy Arabichouse, eval dishes 25-45NIS; s/d US$20/37.50/56; next totheGan Ha’em metro station. burgerspasta, andchicken wings. It’sright upAmericandiner–style food– who serve one has the bartenders doublingas chefs Hashmura 1872 RESTAURANTS Eating hotel. Dan Carmel views.Itisopposite the nies thatoffer sea rooms,somewithbalco- clean comfortable has Education, thiswelcomingguesthouse Run bytheRutenberg Institute forYouth Shrimp, lamb dishes,butthespecialityisseafood. arange ofdoes chicken, pasta, steak and mended splurge Colony.It intheGerman HaNassi Ave; dmUS$22; noon-8pm Fri &Sat) noon-8pm Fri St;dishes 55-65NIS; Saloniki Ave; dishes 25NIS; or No4345fromdowntown. No 3or114fromtheHof HaCarmel station for Haifa’s maintouristattractions.Take bus butless convenient mel trainandbusstation, totheHoffriendly, thisplaceisclose HaCar- ing normalworkinghours tosecure abed. institute.run bythesame Phone ahead dur- isthischeaperGuesthouse hostel, which is www.rutenberg.org.il; 82HaNassiAve; s/dUS$40/60; Jako Seafood Fatoush Carmel HIHostel Carmel Dinner Rush Beth Rutenberg Hostel Beth Rutenberg Molada GuestHouse MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Haifa MEDITERRANEAN carpaccio

Mp p310; (Map h h

(Map (Map p310 ;

Offers anexcellent variety of Thisisaclassyandrecom- Mp p310; (Map pna Mp p310; (Map 8am-1am) noon-1am)

pna ( x (thinlyslicedrawfish) x 853 1944;www.iyha.org.il; dm/

852 4930; 38 Ben-Gurion Ave;852 4930;38Ben-Gurion h h Mp p310; (Map Mp p310; (Map Set uplike amedi- Set x Aconcept bar,this x ) x noon-midnight Sun-Thu, Comfortable and and Comfortable noon-midnight Sun-Thu, 836 1908;122HaNassi ) Close to Molada toMolada Close 866 8813;12Qehilat 855 1872;15Ben- x x 838 7958; 77 838 7958;77 838 7958; 311 a

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES during happyhour,6.30pmto9pm. Centre. Two-for-oneCarmel drinksoffered just off MoriahSt,about2.5km southof Haifa’s mostpopular singlesbarislocated Ave; maindishes35-50NIS; 1am) little café in Carmel Centre. little café inCarmel brownies,trythisstylish or somefantastic night) mission 50NIS; Captain Steve St; mission 50NIS;Captain Steve downtown. of bars are andnightclubs clustered around the environsof Centre. Ahandful Carmel trendy bars andcafésalongMoriahSt and out,localsheadfortheFor anevening &Entertainment Drinking Arab bazaarinWadiNisnas. fruit andvegetables, shopatthegreat little Allenby Rd,aroundHaZiyonut Blvd.For Theotherprimeshwarma areadelights. is pastries,stickybunsandother ing sweet felafel andshwarma,aswellbakeries sell- lutz St,you’llfindawiderange of excellent hole-in-the-wall ontheleftsideof theroad. walking eastonWadiNisnasRd,lookforthe to bethebestfelafel inHaifa. As youare Felafel Michelle QUICK EATS 312 Mp p1 HPla St) HaPalyam p310; (Map h of 12different beers. draught washeddown with yourchoice and seafood, sandwiches, chicken, salads, between steak and sportsbar. Formeals,youcanchoose is regarded asthecity’smainexpathang-out rock stars will have acaptive audience. while Sundayisopen-mike aspiring night; Haifans. Live musicisfeatured onSaturdays alternative rock bar ispopularwithyoung there’s a49NISall-you-can-eatspecial. lunch costs39.50NISandintheevening fare.and Vietnamese business TheChinese excellentChinese downtown placeserving 6pm Mon-Sat) 3am Sat) 35-75NIS; Basement Yan Yan Downtown danceplaces, such as Bear Around theHaNevi’im Stendof HeHa- Barbarossa Greg Coffee Greg 9pm-3am) MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••DruzeVillages MEDITERRANEAN Ifit’sagoodcup of you’re joe after, only openon weekends. The Bear, Haifa’s onlyIrish-stylepub, TheBear,

Mp p310; (Map h

Serves up what many locals claim upwhatmanylocalsclaim Serves 6pm-3am Sun-Wed, 11am-4am Thu-Fri, 5pm- 6pm-3am Sun-Wed,11am-4amThu-Fri, Mp p310; (Map Dim,hedonisticandrowdy,this

Mp p310; (Map

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x (Map (Map p310 HaYam; 3Derekh St;

(Map (Map x 811 4010;8Pica St; p310 ; 838 1703;135HaNassiAve; meals and x x h 21 WadiNisasRd; 855 7878; 28 HaMeganim 855 7878;28HaMeganim 853 2367;2HaVankeem St; Achurva h noon-11pm) midnight-sunrise Thu midnight-sunrise h

Mp p1 ad- p310; (Map 5.30pm-3am) Friendly h h Luna 7am- 8am-

goes toNazarethgoes (17.50NIS,45minutes). Tiberias (28NIS,1½hours) andbusNo332 to busNo430goes minutes). Eastbound, (express) stopatAkko(11.50NIS,30to50 utes) viaAkko,andbusNos251252 (13.50NIS, 45to70minutes, 15min- every Nos 271and272(express) gotoNahariya (39NIS, twohours). Heading north,bus toJerusalem while there’s anhourlyservice minutes forTel Aviv (23NIS,1½hours), HaMifratz.ern busterminal atLev theeast- use to Akko,NahariyaandGalilee fiya The dusty butfriendlyDruze villages of DRUZE VILLAGES 7pm-midnightSat) Thu, 6am-3pmFri, ( The onlyunderground inIsrael,the Around Getting (12.50NIS, 30minutes). to Nahariya(16NIS,45minutes) viaAkko (23NIS,onehour), andnorth via Netanya hourly forTel Aviv (27.50NIS,1½hours) From Haifa Merkaz, trainsdepart roughly mel, atthenewsouthernbus terminal. sage fromplatform34);andHof HaCar- (accessibleviathepas- central busstation Galim,adjacenttothe near theport;Bat Haifa hasthree Haifa train stations: Merkaz, TRAIN andGreece byferry, see p663 . For informationontravelling toandfrom FERRY tion No 103downtown.Theold name)fromwheresame youcantake bus of (adjacenttothetrainstation the station atthenewHofdropped off HaCarmel bus Arriving fromthesouth,passengers are BUS Arkia AIR &Away There Getting nects Haifa withEilat (422NIS,1¼hours). city sights on aleisurelycity sights downhillstroll. the trict. Visitors can ridetothetopandsee Paris viatheHadar Centre, withCarmel dis- where you’llfind inexpensive Indian cloth- haveCarmel, popular high-street bazaars x During the day, buses depart every 20 departevery During theday,buses and

837 6861;perperson 5.50NIS; (HaHaganah Ave)(HaHaganah

Mp p310; (Map Daliyat al-Karmel x 861 1600;80Ha’Atzma’utSt) handles city buses. Buses Buses handlescitybuses. , ontheslopes of Mt www.lonelyplanet.com , connectsKi kar h central bussta- 6am-10pm Sun- Carmelit con- Is-

logical site. are nowconsidered aworld-classarchaeo- ing alongtheMediterranean forover 1km, all butdisappeared, buttheirruins, stretch- by Herod conquerors have andsubsequent aces, temples, churches andmosquesbuilt Roman government inPalestine. Thepal- the Great madeittheheadquarters of the whenHerodto much untilabout30BC amounted never Caesarea century BC, First bythePersians developed inthe6th x CAESAREA three timesdailyexceptSaturday. utes) departsfromthecentralbusstation Alternatively, busNo192(11NIS,45min- 30 minutes) departingwhenfullfromHadar. The bestwaytoget there isby ing, trinkets andhandmadeDruzehandbags. www.lonelyplanet.com 125NIS; Hameyasdim St,Binyamina; d525NIS,perchildextra B&B Grushka Sleeping Park The centralattractionof Sights &Activities tion, orcallfor apick up. minute walk from theBinyamina train sta- equipped villaforfamilies. It’sjustaseven- rooms as wellasaquietcottage andafully Israeli-run B&Boffers comfortable several Diving oftaps atouch screen. different historical periods, allwithafew display thatletsyouexplore thecityduring tion movie, andaninteractive panoramic who answers defini- yourquestions,ahigh plete withaholographicHerod theGreat tures technology, thelatest indigital com- concert venue. phitheatre and beyondthis,areconstructed aqueduct. Ahippodromeliestothe south, beachfront remains of animpressive Roman thewallstonorthstretch the Beyond Crusader city foundations of Herod’s ancientharbour. trips inthearea, allowingyoutoexplore the scuba national park,bythewaterfront, does interactive tour40/33NIS; interactive For amore hands-onexperience, The recommended 04 /pop3400

( x

( pai x 636 1358; basic ticket adult/child23/12NIS,with 636 1358;basicticket , which serves asamodern-day , which serves 626 5898;www.caesarea-diving.com) , with its citadel andharbour., withitscitadel

( x ) ThisfriendlyDutch-and- 638 9810; www.grushka.co.il; 28 638 9810;www.grushka.co.il; h 8am-5pm) interactive tour interactive ﻗﻴﺼﺮﻳﺎﻗﺼﻳ Caesarea National Caesarea sherut isthewalled Roman am- קיסריה (11NIS, (11NIS, Caesarea Caesarea , atthe fea- בית where andconnect youcandisembark roadtowardsKhadera,along thecoastal From Tel Aviv take anybus orNetanya, &Away There Getting שערים ,train toBinyaminafromTel Aviv (21NIS, 3.5km tothesite. Alternatively, take the intersectionthe Caesarea andhike thelast and 2.45pm.ComingfromHaifa, get at off which departat8.20am,11.25am,1.10pm thebestofwith busNo76toCaesarea ﺷﻌﺎرﻳﻢ -BEIT SHE’ARIM last 7km. totakeutes) youthe andlookforataxi 45 minutes) orHaifa (17.50NIS, 30min ﺑﻴﺖ as theyhave years. thousand forseveral chants and fisher-folk carryonpretty much and inthesouq andonthequays,mer- families ratherthanartists, homes house remnant fromthepast. Akko’shistoric diers onasanoblivious –andgenuine – package itshistory fortourists,Akkosol- and whiletherest of Israelscramblesto Akko hasavoided moderndevelopment, city’ outsideitshistoricwalls.As aresult, a‘new aboutdeveloping the Arabsandset ity, andintheendJews leftOldAkkoto asahotbedof Arabhostil- 1930s, itserved the courtof Khan. Khublai pointonhis journeyto this cityasastaging its gates wasayoungMarco Polowhoused the manypeopleof prominencetobreach cityofnence astheCrusader Acre. Among and theRomans,Akkocameto promi- under AlexandertheGreat, theEgyptians After enjoyingalongandvariedhistory Akko, thestonewalledfortress bythesea. Few of theworld’scities are astimeless x AKKO child 18/8NIS; logical site of daytripfrom Haifa,A pleasant thearchaeo- x bus station, exit tothe lefton Derekhbus station, a 20-minute walkto Old Akko. From the it’sroughly From the busandtrainstations, Orientation bus No338fromHaifa toKiryatTivon. and 2nd-centuryruins.Toget there, use Haifa, includesanetworkof burialcaves During theJewish immigrationof the 04 /pop45,800 04 MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Caesarea MEDITERRANEAN h 8am-5pm) Beit She’arim , 19kmsoutheastof

( x 983-1643; adult/ ﻋﻛﺎ עכו ﻛ

313

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES out by the 13th-century Crusaders. out bythe13th-centuryCrusaders. was reconstructed onthefoundationslaid ner issecured byAl-Jazzar’s which Citadel, Pasha al-Jazzar in1799.Itsnorthwestern cor- of wallsbuiltbyAhmed OldAkkothrough You enter thepredominantly Arabenclave OLD AKKO Sights office Tourist Public Library Information further eastfromthebusstation. isabout300m walls ahead.Thetrainstation thecity onto WeizmannStandyou’llsee AmiSt.After twoblocks turnleft onto Ben There, lights. (west) turnright to thetraffic HaArba’a Standcontinue onelongblock 314 Old Akko 6pm Sat-Thu) inside theCrusaderCitadel. ofthe‘Festival Garden’, Locatednorth 4.30pm Nov-Mar) 1 WeizmannSt; library offers Internetaccess. oftheoldcitywalls, Located200mnorth 9am-3pm Fri) 1 3 2 OLD AKKO The M EDI T ERAN N MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Akko MEDITERRANEAN DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Leale al-Sultan...... Kurdi &Berit...... Hummus Said...... Galileo...... Elias Dieb&Sons...... Walied’s AkkoGateHostel...... Turkish Baazar...... Okashi Museum...... Knight's Halls...... (see3) Hammam al-Pasha...... Entrance toCitadel...... Citadel...... Al-Jazzar Mosque...... Tourist Office...... Al-Jazzar Mosque   , withitsgreen, distinctlyTurkish AC ( h (per30min7NIS; x S EA 8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am- 8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 995 6707;www.akko.org.il;

13 12 11 10 (admission 3NIS; 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 h D2 C2 C2 C3 C2 D2 C2 C1 C2 C1 C1 C2 C1 ὄ ὄ 9am-7pm Sun-Thu, Kuraijim el-Kishla Burj al- Burj B To Police HaHaganah St h (200m) Station Lighthouse 8am- Crusader Templar

Tunnel Saint Louis St ὈὈ

Crusaders Napoleon Genoa Lohamei Hageta'otMuseum(5km);Nahariya(9km)

Salah Ve Bazri St Train Station(2.3km);Baha'iGardens(3km);Beit Sq

To PublicLibrary(200m);BusStation(1.7km); St

now contains a30-minute now contains untilthe1940s.The mained inuse builtbyAl-Jazzar,1780 bathhouse which re- mam al-Pasha Halls andvisitthe grab anaudioheadset that way.After ashortfilmaboutthecity, HaNikra caves sea ( p316 ) ifyouare headed about 20NISextrayoucanaddontheRosh and theTemplar Tunnel.For Crusader Halls, Hammam al-Pasha, OkashiMuseum 37NIS) 8.30am-2pm Fri) value you buyaticket orthebetter fortheCitadel where isthetourist office east. Totheright the on theAkkoskyline. Northof themosqueis dome andminaret, isthedominantelement Baazar ofa windingseries tothe passages tunnel (hardtospot)andfollowitthrough Hospitallers. Knights the crusading astheheadquarters ofone time,theyserved halls thatlie8mbelowthestreet At level. Bon At the back end of the Citadel, look for the At thebackendof lookforthe theCitadel,

a 10 p Citadel a 3 Al-Jazzar's Wall

r , which allowsadmissiontoKnight’s 5 t 7

e (adult/child 25/22NIS; combination ticket combination ticket 12 . Then turn right toreach. Thenturnright the al-Umdan Tower Clock Khan 11 6

, entered from thecarparkto Al-Jazzar St Al-Jazzar Souq ὈὈὈ al-Faranj (Turkish Bath), housed in the inthe housed (TurkishBath), , a haunting series of, ahauntingseries vaulted Khan 2 Post Office 1 Mahmat Burj 4 Marina 0.1miles 100m 0 0 Shawarda Khan as- 9

Park

Souq al-Abiad Car Salah ad-Din St ad-Din Salah (adult/student/senior 44/37/ h www.lonelyplanet.com

13 Weizmann St 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, Akko Bay Palm BeachHotel(2km) Land Gate To WallsBeach(100m); multi-media show Burj al-Kommander 8 D Eli CohenPa

Land Wall Promenade hammam Knight’s Turkish Turkish Ham- r

Fri) ing route totheharbour,don’tmissamaz- anOttoman courtyard rises grain fromthehinterlands, andabove its thecameltrains carrying rai) thatserved al-Umdan itliesthe main marketplace. Beyond into thesouq,which istheOldCity’s in 1892.He is buriedintheadjacent lived Ali(Baha’u’llah) untilhisdeath sein faith, Hus- the founderof theBaha’i theMansiondens contain of Bahji, where northeast of central NewAkko. The gar- in anadjacentcircular structure. cated tochildren of theHolocaust,located Akko isthe fortheBaha’i. place onEarth ticket isalsogoodfor hopeful picture of thistragicperiod. Your Despite thedepressing theme,itpresents a duringtheNazi Holocaust. Allied assistance uprisings, Jewishthe ghetto resistance and Attendant’. Fromthe towards the Citadel tothe towards theCitadel runs tourist cruises fromtheMarina.runs touristcruises h (adult/child 10/7NIS; (adult/child 25/21NIS; www.lonelyplanet.com Walied’s Akko Gate Hostel Walied’s Akko Gate Sleeping h ( ( Gardens Baha’i faith maywanttocheck outthewonderful Travellers withaninterest intheBaha’i NEW AKKO 2pm Fri) have gotachoice of fine-looking street-side In this split personality you guesthouse, Sun-Thu, 10am-5pmSat) 200/120NIS, dwith/withoutbathroom 220/140NIS; ad-DinSt;dm30NIS, swith/withoutbathroom 5530; Salah evening, evening, ordered byAl-Jazzar. thedayand Throughout place inthe18thcentury,theirconstruction wallswere century, butthesea onlyputin to aTemplar palace. ground passagewaythatconnected thePort h x , anincongruousmodernartgallery. From the Citadel, followthealleysouth From theCitadel, Another worthwhilesite justoutsidenew The original 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8.30am-4pmFri) 9am-4pm Sun-Thu) 9am-noon Fri-Mon) 995 8052; www.gfh.org.il; adult/child20/18NIS;995 8052;www.gfh.org.il; Templar CrusaderTunnel called ‘The Story of the Last Bath Bath called‘TheStoryof theLast , once a grand khan (caravanse- , onceagrandkhan Malkat Akko Malkat

Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot Museum Beit LohameiHaGeta’ot (admission free; h land h 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8.30am-2pm , which commemorates amoving dedi- museum , considered theholiest

walls 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8.30am-

( Yad Layeled x hammam date from the 12th date fromthe12th

991 0606,050-5551136) ( x h

(adult/child 10/7NIS; 991 0410;fax 981 clock tower Okashi Museum Okashi 9am-4pm)

walk back walkback , anunder- ( h 9am-4pm , 3km shrine Khan . En i )

45-80NIS; .co.il; s/dUS$105/130; night) Berit spices orcoffee, trytheatmospheric Souq al-Abiad; there’s noEnglishsign.For great littlecavelike supermarket opposite Getting There &Away There Getting available at suppliesareand Al-Jazzar Sts.Self-catering places For cheap eatingthere are several Eating &Drinking (35NIS (200NIS)andRoshHaNikra Owner Waliedcanarrange tripstothe bunkbeds. yard filledwithdiscardedmetal non roomsthatoverlookattached agrubby bathrooms, or stuffy rooms withattached minutes). The most pleasant way totravelminutes). The most pleasant hariya (7.60NIS, 15to 25minutes, 15 every 270, 271 and 272(express) runnorthto Na- bus Nos 251 and271.From Akko,busNos and 272 depart frequently, asdo theslower 50 minutes, 15minutes), every bus Nos252 the OldCity.From Haifa (11.70NIS, 30to a 20-minute walkfrom themainentranceto lieabout Akko’s busterminal and trainstation big globof hummuswithfuulorgarlic. anda 15NIS, you’llget pickles, pitta salads, of visitors from aroundthecountry.For much-loved diptothrongs MiddleEastern something of aninstitution,dolingupthat trenched inthesouq,thisplacehasbecome for afree pickupfromthestation. ingly, themainmenuoptionisfish. Akko fromtheMediterranean. Notsurpris- wallthatdivides is actuallybuiltintothesea of thischarming Arabiannights, restaurant is 10NIS. Turkish coffee costs5NISwhile anargileh A wall hangingsandbackgammon tables. cushions,colourful sportingsequined house the Land Gate road. alongthecoastal the Land discount. Toget tothehotel, from headeast theInternet sports. Bookthrough fora10% healthspaandwater including apool,sauna, four-star qualityroomsandfinefacilities, east of theold city,thePalm offers Beach Hummus Said Galileo Palm BeachHotel Leale-al Sultan Leale-al

Traditional Middle Eastern coffee- TraditionalMiddleEastern ( aroundthejunctionof ad-Din Salah x ) MEDITERRANEAN COAST ••Akko MEDITERRANEAN h when there is enough demand. Call whenthere demand.Call isenough

991 6188) ( x 10am-midnight) Elias Dieb&Sons 991 4617; 176/11 Salah Ve St;dishes Bazri 991 4617;176/11Salah

(

h , located inthesouq. (Khan as-Shawarda; (Khan psi

6am-2pm) ( x Conjuringupimages 987 7777;www.palmbeach Very much en-

) (Salah ad-DinSt) (Salah Located 2km h 9am-mid- Kurdi & felafel

315

, a

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES h Rosenblatt a blockeastof the busstation. ground floorof themunicipalitybuilding, Tourist Centre Tourist road fromNahariyaendsatthe raelis toimprove visitoraccess.The10km by theBritishforarailwayand theIs- bynature butwerenally carved enlarged drous border,thewon- on the Lebanese Right x ROSH HANIKRA St; s/d170/200; A catch onwardtransportforRoshHaNikra. mosttravellersthough comehere tosimply Nahariya liessolelyinitslovely beaches, resortThe appeal of thequietseaside of x NAHARIYA along thebeachfront railway. (7.50NIS, 15minutes), isbytrain however, utes, 30minutes) every orontoNahariya AkkoandHaifabetween (12.50NIS,30min- 316 Rosh HaNikraHoliday Village Sleeping &Eating 8.30am-11pm Jul&Aug) 38/30NIS; 11pm Jul-Aug) h but add 50NIS for half board. but add 50NIS forhalf board. include breakfast,(165 to195NIS). Rates offers apool,gym (40NIS)andmassage cable car. health spaalso Thisself-styled ish Customs Postabout700m southof the Haifa (10.50NIS,45to70minutes). continuingto the 271and272services to Akko(7.50NIS,1525minutes), with 25minutes every (until10.30pm) roughly HaGa’aton Blvd. pna .kfar-rosh-hanikra.co.il; campsites/rper person40/180NIS; minute filmpresentation. Ticket priceincludesadmission toa15- aformerrailtunnel tothecaves.through 300m southof thetouristcentre; itleads track thatleaves about themainhighway caves. Alternatively, findthedimwalking If youfeel like trythequiet staying, Bus Nos270,271and272(express) run tourist office tourist 8am-4.45pm Sun-Thu, 8am-12.30pmFri) 04 04 /pop47,400 8.30am-4pm Sep-Mar, 8.30am-6pmApr-Jun,8.30am-4pm Sep-Mar, 8.30am- GALILEE••Nazareth sea caves h )

( This is housed in theoldBrit- Thisishoused x 8.30am-4pm Sep-Mar, 8.30am-6pmApr-Jun,8.30am-4pm Sep-Mar, fromwhere a اﻟﻨﺎﻗﻮرة رأﺲ הניקרה ראש הניקרה رأﺲ اﻟﻨﺎﻗﻮرة

pas ( 992 3469;[email protected]; 59Weizmann x atRoshHaNikra were origi-

( x 985 7109;www.rosh-hanikra.com; descends steeply tothe descendssteeply 987 98301; 19 HaGa’aton Blvd; 987 98301;19HaGa’aton ) , onthecornerof

cable car ( x ﻧﻬﺎرﻳﺎ נהריהﻧﺎﻳ 982 3112;www Rosh HaNikra isonthe (adult/child Hotel Hotel

drink for45NIS. of thecablecar offering lunch abuffet with Rosh HaNikra. over Israel.You’llfindit5kmsouthof 15NIS) of archaeological findsfromall (admissionbut alsoadesultorymuseum (nationalparkfee 25NIS), Beach Akhziv takes stretch innotonlyabeautiful of uponentry.Theramblingpropertystamp get –you’lleven state separate apassport hippie’ hideaway,EliAvivi claimstobea sites perperson80NIS,r150-175NIS) called Annunciation or Casa Novacalled Annunciation or Casa St). OnEl- trated onPaul VIStand El-Bishara St (also Most sites of pilgriminterest are concen- & Information Orientation half aday. ifonlyfor worth avisit,even is certainly it expectations, may notfulfileveryone’s Christendom. modernNazareth Although reth isoneof themostrevered sites in Arabtownof Naza- timeless butscruffy worked inhisfather’scarpentryshop, the the placewhere hepreached, and taught As the childhood homeof Jesus, and x NAZARETH necessary. turnedwatereven intowine,whenitwas loaves andfishes,walked onwater –and inhistory,multipliedenigmatic sermons his disciples,preached oneof the most it washere thatJesus grew up,gathered areathe Galilee Bible territory: isserious drier landstothesouth.ForChristians, of allprovide Galilee, reliefSea fromthe ests, fertile farmlandand,of course,the age, green Galilee’s valleys,verdant for- With itslushsceneryand religious herit- GALILEE orhitching. taxi 3pm. Youcouldalsoget there byshared Only onebuscomesbacktoNahariya,at minutes, noon,2.30pm,5.30pmand6pm). times dailytoRoshHaNikra (6.50NIS,15 busNos20and32runfour From Nahariya, &Away There Getting For meals, there’sFor meals, atouristcaféatthetop Eli Avivi 04 /pop61,700

( x 982 3219;[email protected]; camp اﻟﺠﻠﻴﻞ הגלילاﺠﻴ www.lonelyplanet.com اﻟﻨﺎﺻﺮة נצרת ﻟﺎﺮ Arustic‘lost- & 2-5pmMon-Sat) Church of StJoseph be viewed byappointment. Thenearby under thepresent courtyard andcanonly tomb;itlies ples of anancientstone-sealed oneofstreet, the bestexam- youcansee Galilee www.lonelyplanet.com tion Nazareth’s revered Sights is thehelpful Bishara St,justabove thePaul VIintersection, the world. communitiesaround donated byCatholic collection of ‘ andChild’artwork antine churches inside,andtheoutdoor by remnants of andByz- earlierCrusader Its ratherbland1969exterior isredeemed Mary thatshewouldbeartheSonof God. the Angel GabrielannouncedtotheVirgin onthesitestands where believe Catholics int.gov.il; 4304; over theremains of church. amedieval In traditional site of carpentry shop, Joseph’s (16km) Haifa To 1 3 2 GALILEE National Park At the

Tzippori h Tel Aviv(85km) (39km); (6km); Khadera To Megiddo (El-Bishara St; h 8.30-11.45am &2-5pm Mon-Sat) 79 73 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat) 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, Sisters of Nazareth Convent ofNazareth Sisters AC Jenin , builtin 1914,occupiesthe tourist office tourist h Nazareth 60

8.30-11.45am &2-5pmMon-Sat) (Al-Bishara St; Nasrat BANK WEST Peqi'in Hadasha Afula Basilica oftheAnnuncia- 71 Kafr Kana GALILEE (Sachne) Reserve Mt Tabor

Gan HaShlosha 65 (562m) ( x National Park Beit She’an 657 0555;nazrat@ h 85 65 8.30-11.45am B , upthe Hamat Tiberias National Park 767 77

Migdal Minya

(

Tsfat x . Nahal 10 Belvoir HaYarden

Reserve

Kokhav 655 ’Amud Jerusalem (128km) Junction Tzemah 11 Beit She'an To

Tabgha 7 Amuka 90 Rosh Pina Tiberias 4 Galilee Sea of admission 50NIS; St. AcrossWellSqfromhere is east of thebasilica, twoblocksoff Paul VI Greek Orthodox Church Orthodox Greek Theattractive prayed andtaught. site of thesynagoguewhere theyoungJesus ing fresh juiceandTurkish delights. andrefreshments,lent commentary includ- guided tourof includes excel- thebathhouse water fromMary’slised Well.A40-minute lage to head for theworthwhile amid Nazareth’s modernbustle maywant group US$25; (Paul VISt) forgrainstorage.ern wasprobablyused pre-Byzantine times,theunderground cav- Church streets. Initsmidstsitsthe Al-Bishara St,occupiesamazeof narrow ancient bathhouse side itatthe claims isthesite of theAnnunciation.Be- Mon-Sat) 8 2 Border Crossing 3 Korazim Those who justcan’t imagine JesusThose The

Capernaum 1 ( National x

9 Kursi Nature Reserve J ORDAN liesabout10minutes’ walknorth- Park ( HaYarden Park Al-Balda al-Qadimasouq h , which theGreek Orthodox Church 645 6042; www.nazarethvillage.com; St 5079; Arik Bridge 6 5 8.30-11.45am &2-5pmMon-Sat) Shalom Mitzpe h h Cactus gift shop gift Cactus 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) 9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Guesthouse...... (see7) C1 Nof GinosarHotel& Karei DesheHIHostel...... B2 Hokuk Camping...... (see11) Arbel &ShavitB&B...... C2 Yigal AllonCentre...... (see7) C2 Ostrich Farm...... B1 Kibbutz Kinneret...... C2 Kibbutz Ginosar...... ...... C2 Greek OrthodoxMonastery...... (see2) Ein GevResort...... Peter...... (see4) C1 Church ofthePrimacySt Loaves&Fishes...... C1 Church oftheMultiplication C1 Church oftheBeatitudes...... Capernaum NationalPark...... C2 Jordan ValleyInformationCentre.. ( GALILEE ••Nazareth x 98

(Mary’s WellSq; (Mary’s 8miles 14km 0 0 050 5384343;admission per isawonderful , westof upper , which uti- Greek Catholic Catholic Greek . Located in D Nazareth Vil- Nazareth h Mary’s Well Mary’s St Gabriel’s St Gabriel’s , onthe 8am-6pm 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 317

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 200m southwestof Mary’s Well. dishesarepasta alsoavailable. It’slocated a brickoven. steak Chicken, and seafood, with chicken andslices of onionbaked in Bishara St;s/d/trUS$40/54/68; you’re menu. normallylimited to aset friendly butcaters mainly fortourgroups,so andTurkish supplydepot.It’s as aGerman reth’s milland,duringWWI, first sesame asNaza- a cavelike 1860buildingthatserved in and lotsof isset oldartefacts, HolyLand cellent plete fare: withMiddleEastern trytheex- the straw-encrusted walls.Themenuis re- tered winebottles andantiquesclippedto interior of storehouse withscat- amedieval to Nazareth isdressed uptolooklike the It’s 50mwestof thebasilica. theymaywaitabitlater. inanycase), wise, at 9.30pm,butifyou’re prebooked (which is you’ll have toringthebell.Reception closes reasons,Nazareth’, forsecurity so isclosed breakfast. Thedoor,marked de ‘Réligieuses ities are available, private roomrates include best accommodationintown.Kitchen facil- tories and30private rooms,thisisbyfarthe 75NIS; the intersection belowthetouristoffice. scattered along Paul VIstreet, especiallyat The bestfelafel andshwarmajointsare Eating Convent ofNazareth Sisters Sleeping Al-Wadi al-Jawani St. walk duewestfromthebasilica,justbeyond Nazareth of 2000years ago. It’sa15-minute reconstructs life everyday andcommercein project, byactors inperiodclothing, staffed Nazareth’s YMCA building,thisnonprofit 318 utes) departs hourly from theHamishbir Bus No 431for Tiberias (21.50NIS, 45min- There’s nomain busterminal inNazareth. &Away There Getting St; setmenusUS$10) during lowperiods.Breakfast isincluded. are asthehospicemaynotopen essential, ian pilgrimage groups.Advancebookings Novabasilica, theCasa caters mainlyforItal- 0741; dmUS$8,s/dUS$28/46; Holy LandRestaurant Casa Nova Hospice Nova Casa Tishreen GALILEE••Tzippori h muhammar, 11am-midnight)

( x 608 4666;56El-BisharaSt;meals30- With exotic handmade tiles Withexotichandmade tiles

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657 5415; 6168 Casa Nova 657 5415;6168CasaNova ( x ) ) Withdormi- 655 4304;fax646 Opposite the h there’s nopublictransport. From there you’llhave towalkorhitch – Tzippori Junction,about4kmfromthe site. highlights. to allowatleastthree hours tocatch the tem of cisterns andaqueducts. You’llneed andahauntingundergroundcitadel sys- with somelovely floors, mosaic aCrusader roadways, anamphitheatre, aRomanvilla with ruins,includingoriginalcolonnaded the reign of Herod. TodayTzippori brims of throughas theRomancapital Galilee by theRomangeneral Pompeiiandserved itwasconquered butin63BC century BC, first bytheHasmoneans settled inthe2nd National Park in battle onearthisnowpreserved St John predicted wouldhostthelastgreat Har Megiddo, orMtMegiddo), thesite that knownasArmageddon (inHebrewBetter x MEGIDDO NationalPark (or ) The impressive archaeological site x TZIPPORI station. and Tel Aviv, theyleave fromthePaz petrol of Hamishbir department store. ForHaifa Nos 823or824. For Tel Aviv (36NIS,twohours), take bus stop opposite theEgged information office. Akko (25NIS,45minutes, hourly),buses regularity.utes) with aboutthesame To leaveroad, buses forHaifa (19NIS,45min- department store onPaul VISt;over the accessed onthe Haifa–Afulaaccessed bus. Alterna- tion, westof the Haifa road, and is best have looked. visitor-centre modelsdepicthow itmust excellent with anaturalspring. Theseveral water system, which connected the city by KingSolomon, andthe9th-century-BC fortifiedcity,which wasoriginallybuilt BC matic ruinsare of those the10th- century- Themostenig- from 10,000to 400 BC. dence of dating 20distincthistoricalphases cavations atthesite have unearthedevi- 23NIS; Buses between Nazareth between Buses andAkkostopat Sheruts The site lies2km northof Megiddo Junc- 04 04 8am-5pm Sat-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) h 8am-5pm insummer,8am-4pmwinter) toTiberias leave frominfront

( x 659 0316;adult/child23/12NIS; ﻫ;ﺒﻪ www.lonelyplanet.com

( x

. Ongoingex- 656 8262;admission ﻣﻴﭽﺌ<ٷ מגידוﻣﭽ< Megiddo Megiddo ציפורי Tzippori Tzippori was cheques. charge a4%commission. Thepostofficechangestravellers commission moneychanger. Bank BankLeumi andMizrahi itrainl hn office. phone international per hr 20NIS; h following thisroute. check situationbefore thelatest security Jerusalemroute between andTiberias, but stop alongthescenicJordanRiver Hwy She’anThe tidytownof makes Beit agreat x SHE’AN BEIT the last2kmuphill. bus, get atMegiddo off Junctionandwalk Teltively, take thehalf-hourly Aviv– Tiberias www.lonelyplanet.com Solnan Communication postoffice Main Café Internet Exchange Office Information to 50%. by25%ends whenhotel pricescanrise of on week- Tiberias Galilee andtheSea nightlife. Ifpossible,trytoavoid visiting of thetown’slakeside wining,dining and canpartake soul, whilethelessobservant ment of the body withpurificationof the Jews tocombinetreat-invites observant and tombsof venerated sages, thetown of interest. Withitsmix of naturalspas ing thelakeside spotsandpoints beauty Tiberiaslee, forvisit- istheobvious base ofAs Gali- theonlytownbesideSea x TIBERIAS h Afula. toandfrom are also regular busservices She’an,and Tiberias, andthere viaBeit the lushriverfront. invitingwalkingtracksalong and several smaller amphitheatre inthetowncentre, floored Byzantinebaths. There’s alsoa street and0.5hectare of elaborate, mosaic- basilica, nymphaeum,acolonnadedRoman tions, which sofarhave revealed atemple, as wellextensive andongoingexcava- Romanamphitheatre, rael’s best-preserved 3am) Located behind Al-Omri Mosque. 3am) LocatedbehindAl-Omri et h’n ainl Park National She’an Beit Buses runfrequentlyBuses Jerusalem between 7am-6pm Sun-Thu, 7am-noon Fri) 04 /pop15,300 04 /pop35,000 8am-4pm winter,8am-5pmsummer) h ( x 8am-11pm) Internet caféand (HaBanimSt; (cnrHaYarden &HaBanim Sts; 672 4672;perhr20NIS; ( x ﺳﻴﺎن ﺑﻴﺖ בית שאן ﻴ ﻴن 672 6470;3 Midrahov; h

(adult/child 23/12NIS; 10am-7pm) No- ﻃﺒﺮﻳﺎ טבריה ﺒﻳ features Is- h 10am- Thu, 8.30am-8pmSat) 60NIS; 8.30pm Sun) is housed in the reconstructedis housed hammam, 3rd to 5thcenturies CE. Asmall museum feature isasmallsynagogue dating to the its majorback to Roman times,though chaeological site side ofmountain thestreet. mistake thisfortheolderfacility onthe wrap (115NIS) are also available. Don’t (125NIS)andmud pools. Swedishmassage venation after adip inoneof its mineral Hot Springs beast wasapparently drawntoTiberias. bury himwherever thecamelexpired. The lowers toloadhisremains ontoacameland heinstructedbefore fol- inCairo, hisdeath regardedhighly hasitthat sages. Legend 1204, wasoneof 12th-centuryEgypt’s most Saladin. Thisrevered rabbi,whodiedin worked inthecourt of theMuslim ruler whoknown asMaimonides or Rambam, resting placeof theSpanishphysician,also dent US$6/5; century The dignifiedbutincongruousmid-18th- Sights office Tourist (adult/senior/child 12/6/6NIS; General MosheDayan. General Abraham toJesus, NapoleonandtheIsraeli graphical andpoliticalstoryof from Galilee languages, recounting thehistorical,geo- an hourlyaudiovisual programmein12 modern waterfront presents development, Peter’s piscatorialprofession. 1870. Theboat-shapednave isa nodtoSt saders, butthepresent structure dates from was originallybuiltby12th-centuryCru- at 10.30am. fromtheSheratonTiberias HotelonSaturday tour departs Tiberias, area. Nazareth Afree andtheGalilee citywalking in the‘archaeologicalpark’,thisofficehasfree mapsof 1pm &2-4pmSun-Thu, Located 8.30am-12.30pmFri) matic forlornandabandoned.Theenig- stands mosque, a second historic structures inTiberias’ OldTown; Moshe BenMaimon Just past the modern bathhouse, Just pastthemodern bathhouse, the ar- Around 2kmsouthof town,the Uphill fromthecentre, the The h St Peter’s Church St Peter’s Galilee Experience Galilee 8am-8pm Sun,Mon&Wed,8am-11pmTue & Al-Omri Mosque Al-Omri , onthewaterfront promenade, h

( x ( x 9-10pm Sun-Thu, 9-4pmFri) 672 8500; Elizer Kaplan Blvd; admission 672 8500;ElizerKaplan GALILEE ••BeitShe’an 672 5666;9HaBanimSt; promises physicalreju- promises Hamat Tiberias National ParkHamat Tiberias

Jama al-Bahr (Ben Zakkai St) (Ben Zakkai

isoneof thefew

( ( h h x mass 6pmMon-Sat, 8am-5pm) 672 3620;adult/stu- (1880),now Tomb of Rabbi Tomb ofRabbi isthefinal , partof a h dates Tiberias Tiberias 9am- 319

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES pna Achiva Sts;dm/s/d40/90/120NIS, holidayflats280-350NIS; Sleeping Lido Boats Holy LandSailing Tours closure in1944. from1780 until its asabathhouse in use Tiberias 320 Hostel AvivHostel per day. Top-quality bicyclescanbe hired for40NIS kitchenettes andsome have Jacuzzi tubs. adjacent building (tothewest)alsofeature lake views.TheAviv holidayflatsinthe andsomehave private balconieswith TV, vate roomshave showers, fridges, andcable option intown. Both thedormsandpri- .il; 2HaYarden St;dm/s US$19/37, dUS$48-56; are notalwaysopentothepublicsocallfirst. with fullbarandmusicfor20NISperperson.The cruises and EinGev. betweenTiberias, Tabghagroups, providingferry services andforprebooked ofGalilee sightseeing cruisesontheSea 1 3 2 TIBERIAS Meyouhas HIHostel Meyouhas GALILEE••Tiberias SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION aoaaHtl...... C3 C1 Panorama Hotel...... C3 Meyouhas HIHostel...... B2 Hostel Aviv...... D1 Dona GraciaHotel...... C3 Casa NovaHostel...... Aviv HolidayFlats...... D1 D2 St Peter’sChurch...... Jama al-Bahr...... D2 Galilee Experience...... C1 Al-Omri Mosque...... C2 Tourist Office...... C2 Solnan Communication...... C2 Mizrahi Bank...... C1 Main PostOffice...... C1 Internet Café...... C1 Exchange Office...... C1 Bank Leumi...... SLEEPING ( )

Thisisprobably thebestbudget x AC ( x Maimon (100m);TombofRabbi Akiva (3km);ShavitB&B(6km); 672 1538) Has party cruisescomplete 672 1538)Hasparty To TombofRabbiMosheBen 671 2272; fax 671 2272; cnr HaGalil & 671 2272;faxcnrHaGalil ( x 22 Nazareth (28km) 672 3007, 050 217416) Offers 672 3007,050217416)Offers 25

( x 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

672 1775; www.iyha.org

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ὈὈ ὈὈ

HaShiloah St 27 14 evc aisad...... B1 C2 Service Taxistand...... A1 Eldan...... B1 Central BusStation...... Avis...... C2 Hyper NetoSupermarket...... A1 O-Ben DushDanceBar...... D2 C2 Lebanese CedarsRestaurant...... D1 Kapulsky...... B2 Decks...... Al-Farsi...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING

HaPrahim St 24

HaAmakim B

St Hashiloah St Hashiloah

Market HaGilboa na St Shimon Park

HaYarden St Ha'

18

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.com/~shavit/; s/dUS$30/60; dm/s/d US$15/32/50; central Tiberias. All unitshave kitchenettes to the bustle ofa tranquil garden setting ant treat whoprefer for those relaxation in Arbel village, thisB&B makes for apleas- .com; 3 HaPrahim; s/dUS$70/90; .com; 3HaPrahim; small discount. fast. StudentsandHIcardholders receive a HIhostels.pleasant Allrates includebreak- thisisoneofScottish hospital, Israel’smost In a110-year-old stonebuilding,formerlya facilities and satellite-TV lounge. facilities andsatellite-TV clude breakfast of aswelluse thekitchen 100-year-old pilgrims’ hostel. Allrates in- Peter’s Church, andquiet thisisaclean include breakfast. here,staying or45NIS ifyouare not.Rates dedicated toDonaGracia, free ifyouare and politicalinfluence. There isamuseum woman revered acrossEurope for herwealth legend of a16th-centuryPortuguese- Jewish midrange themehotel isbuiltaroundthe

Tavor Castle (100m) St To Crusader 4 Casa Nova Hostel Nova Casa Dona GraciaHotel Shavit B&B 23 22 21 20 19 18 27 26 25 24

16

1 2 HaBanim St HaBanim 23 River Hotel Archaeological Jordan 5 Ὀ Ὀ Midrahov 8 26 17 20

3 (

Park x Achiva St St HaGalil 6 12 pna 0.1miles 100m 0 0 7

679 4919;www.members.tripod

City Walls City 15 ( ( x Tsfat (35km) x Capernaum To Tabgha (16km); (12km); pna 671 7176;www.donagracia To HolidayInn/TrapezeDance www.lonelyplanet.com 671 2281;1HaYarden St; 11 National Park(2km);Tiberias 13 Bar (800m);HamatTiberias 21 Tiberias Hotel ) Beit She'an(37km) Hot Springs(2km); AdjacenttoSt ain Kinneret Sheraton 10 Beach Lido D ) 19 Located in Galilee 9 Sea of Ferry Pier ) Ein Gev This menade; dishes30-70NIS; h nal kitchen andadiningarea. fers airybutbasicrooms,acommu- clean, h diet. Insummeritopensfrom6pm. Thisisnotagoodplaceifyou’reserts. ona down tothegarlicfriesandheavenly des- from thespare ribsandtunasteak, right inside. Everything onthemenuistempting, are by thedoorasyouwalk set steakhouse tite, the enormousgrillsforthislegendary the waterfront. Thesmall trian mall).More upmarket placesare along cafés atthetopendof the The cheapest sit-downdiningoptionsare Eating 100/150/200NIS; for afree pickup. mealsare alsoavailable. Call and cableTV; www.lonelyplanet.com cially insummer. attract crowdson weekend espe- evenings, The cafésandbars aroundthe Entertainment shashlik, liver andshwarma. prices andarange of including localstaples, Lively fastfoodplace withlow late-night (49NIS). with lamb(30NIS)orthekebab withtahini rior of aship.Try theexcellenthummus terfront, isdesignedtolooklike theinte- restaurant, onthewa- authentic Lebanese demand throughout theyear.demand throughout There is some- cruises HaYarden St. anddisco dancing.It’s near rumba, samba ket behindtheAl-OmriMosque. also theconvenient HyperNeto supermar- arange ofsells fruitsandvegetables. There’s off HaYarkon Stsouthof GanShimon Park, breakfasts (untilnoon)andstir-fries. It alsowhipsupstarters, extensive Israeli range of omelettes andbaked potatoes. crepes salad, specialising inpasta, anda wide chain of koshervegetarian restaurants, late Thu-Satinsummer) Kapulsky Panorama Hotel O-Ben DushDanceBar O-Ben Al-Farsi From the Lido Kinneret Beach, From the LidoKinneret Beach, Decks Lebanese Cedars Restaurant Lebanese Cedars 8am-1am; noon-midnight;

( x

(

x (cnr HaGalil &HaYarkon(cnr HaGalil Sts;snacks14NIS) 672 1538; 20NIS)

na ( x 672 1538;LidoBeach;mains70-120NIS; na 672 0341; Midrahov; dishes35-55NIS; 672 0341;Midrahov; n

( ) x Thisispartof anation- ) Features techno, salsa, Justtowhetyourappe- ) h Thisfriendlyhotel of-

( 679 1004; 56 HaGalil St;s/d/tr 679 1004;56HaGalil x 8am-10pm; depart according to 050 451133; midrahov market

( x na 651 0314;Pro-

( h h midrahov (pedes- 10.30am- Sun-Fri) ) This disco ,

(25NIS, 1½hours). (21.50NIS, 40minutes) andKiryatShmona utes), Tsfat She’an (20NIS, onehour),Beit 1½ hours), Nazareth (21.50NIS,45 min- toHaifa (28NIS, (except Saturday)services Theretral busstation. are daily alsoseveral three hours) atleasthourlyfromthecen- (42NIS, 2½hours) andJerusalem (42NIS, street, vides free mapsandregional information. shopping centre inTzemah Junction,pro- fetid Beach. canal nearjunkyRestal shrine, overgrown withvegetation, besidea commemorated with atinywhite-domed place of Mary Magdalene. Theconnection is Migdal, 6km northof Tiberias, wasthebirth- Shore Northwestern The Information is byhired bike. of walkingonwater, the bestwayaround plore inacoupleof theGalilee days.Short Tiberias travellers asabase, canreadily ex- ered followers andworked miracles.Using preaching Jesus –thearea where hegath- tors, forthe itisbetter knownashomebase of Israel’swater supply.Forforeign visi- a naturalbeautysite andthemainsource Hebrew), fed bytheJordanRiver, isboth ference, of (Kinneret Galilee in theSea Around 21kmlongand55kmincircum- GALILEE OF SEA buses Egged &Away There Getting tophoneconfirm. but you’llneed especiallyinsummer, thing onmostnights, h time of ministry. Christ’s covered dated to the in 1986, ithasbeen operators have dubbed‘the Jesus Dis- boat’. of an8.2mfishing vessel thatshrewd tour celebrated exhibit istheskeletal remains Itsmostthe theme‘man in theGalilee’. Sat-Thu, 8.30am-1pm Fri) to otherdestinationslike Nazareth. occasionally Haifa (20NIS,onehour),and mostly toTel Aviv (35NIS,twohours) and tre Outside the bus station andacrossthe Outside thebusstation On Kibbutz Ginosar isthe On KibbutzGinosar

8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, &Sat) 8.30am-2pmFri ( x Jordan Valley InformationCentre 672 1495;adult/child20/15NIS; sheruts

( x GALILEE •• ofGalilee GALILEE ••Sea leave theday, throughout 672 9222) , a museum devoted to devoted , amuseum اﻟﺠﻠﻴﻞ اﻟﺒﺤﺮ اﺒﺮاﺠﻴ departforTel Aviv Yigal Allon Cen- Yigal h

( x 8.30am-5pm כנרת ים כנרת 675 2727; 675 2727; , at the , atthe

321

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES domed east alongtheshoreline thevery rises pink, that wasbuiltover hislodgings.Further the ruinsof a3rd- or4th-centurysynagogue churchministry. Anoctagonal hovers over the mostinfluentialperiodof hisGalilean it liesthetranquil and aboatterminal. which hasasouvenir shop,lakeside gardens major sites. which isa5kmhike orhitch toanyof the Junction (12NIS, 30 minutes, twicehourly), when there’s demand. sufficient are andGinosar Tiberias, available EinGev ing thefollowingsites. tops)isrequiredshorts ortank whenvisit- the NewTestament. Modestdress (no sociated withthree episodesfrom salient hepta pega, Tabgha ful andserene of the Christian holyplaces, consideredGenerally tobethemostbeauti- Tabgha &Capernaum 322 highlighted bythe highlighted swimming spots along theeastern shore, There are plentyof scenic, uncrowded Shore Eastern cation of Loaves &Fishes cation ofLoaves ofdome. Thealtar the glassaroundthememorated instained ofthe lake. Jesus TheBeatitudes are com- sits inalovely gardenabout100mabove ontheMount,memorates theSermon church leadership onStPeter. where theresurrected Jesus conferred the constructed here tocommemorate thespot the 4thcentury,anow-ruinedchurch was 1933 atthesite calledMensa Christi.In glass,wasbuiltbyFranciscansin stained 9.45am-5pm Sun) St Peter wonderfully serene ubiquitous ‘loaves-and-fishes’ The mosaic. floors,some beautifulmosaic including the listeners. In1932,excavations uncovered fishes thatmultipliedtofeed 5000faithful where Jesus laidthefive loaves andtwo Church, toincludetherock isthought car 5NIS; 4.40pm) Buses fromTiberias Buses passbyCapernaum The Capernaum GALILEE •• Sea ofGalilee GALILEE••Sea was the home base of wasthehomebase Jesus during (anArabicrendition of theGreek

h Greek Orthodox Monastery Orthodox Greek Church oftheBeatitudes (

h ﻛﺒﺮﻧﺤﻴﻢ ﻛﺒﺮﻧﺤﻴﻢ 8-11am &2.30-4.40pm) meaning ‘seven springs’)isas- meaning‘seven 8am-noon &2-5pm)

(Kfar Nahum; admission 3NIS; (Kfar Nahum; , alsocalledtheHeptapagon & Ein Gev Resort Ein Gev ﺗﺒﺨﺄ Capernaum NationalPark Capernaum Church of the Primacy of Church ofthePrimacy

Lake cruises Lake (

h Church oftheMultipli- טבחה 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, , withitslovely , which com- . Justbeyond

& (see (see oppo- (admission per

נחום (25NIS) h

כפר 8am- to , 12/6NIS; Mon-Sat, 7am-4pmSun) admission Sun-Thu &Sat79NIS; 69NIS,Fri camp sites100NIS; 171/240NIS; and 3pm,Fridayatnoon1pm. Hamat GaderSundaytoThursday atnoon leave at 8.30amand9.30am.Returning,buses Thursday at8.45amand10.30am,Friday out thealligatorfarmandzoopark. one of ethnicrestaurants, several orcheck complete, try eral pools.Mineralsaturation hang aroundHamat Gadar’sluxurymin- and totsspillingicecream over themselves Jordanian border. Retirees inbeach gear ing thebottomof valleysplitbythe adeep Golan Heights, isaresort complexoccupy- April toOctober. grounds withagrassypitch. It’sopenfrom Karei Deshe,thisis oneof thefew camping Karei Deshe HIHostel Karei HOSTELS &GUESTHOUSES theArikBridge.Jordan, near For afree campingspot,trythebank of the a decentshowerblockandtoilet facilities. do get somethingforyourmoney–security, run bykibbutzimorprivate resorts, butyou isoftenCamping expensive asmost sites are CAMPING Sleeping Gader Hamat Gader Hamat monastery. an impressive 5th-centuryByzantine-era beautiful, recently excavated ruinsfeature of demonspiritsinto aherdof swine. The also theplacewhere Jesus castacontingent ish Talmud asasite foridolworship, was h for kids,isthe restaurant. Anotherdiversion,seafood great site beach andrenowned), withitssecluded www.ginosar.co.il; sUS$66-110, d US$80-130; bus No52 fromTiberias. are available for 42NIS.Toget here, take a rocky beach andafew peacocks.Meals grounds withdate palms, eucalyptustrees, spark inattractiveling white facilityset From Tiberias, bus24departs Sundayto us Ntoa Park National Kursi Hokuk Camping Hokuk Nof Ginosar Hotel &Guesthouse Nof Ginosar Hotel 9am-3pm) h pna 8am-5pm) atKibbutzHa’On.

( x p ostrich farm ostrich 675 1039;www.hamat-gader.com;

) , designated bytheJew- , which isactuallyinthe Aroundthebendfrom ( x )

InTabgha, this isa (

x ( 671 5440,0577400242; x www.lonelyplanet.com 672 0601;dm/s/d91.50/ 673 1983;adult/child

(adult/child 18/15NIS;

h ( x pna גדר חמת גדר 7am-10pm 670 0311; can use thebeach for30NIS. can use Yigdal (see AllonCentre p321 ). Nonguests includebreakfastRates andavisittothe rates in summerandduringJewish holidays. arethe higher forthehotel; add50%toall The lowerrates are and fortheguesthouse flanked bygardensandaprivate beach. lakesidevides comfortable accommodation old quarters slither downfrom Yerusha- Tsfat’sthe site Central of citadel. aCrusader &Around There Getting is www.lonelyplanet.com park and viewpoint breeze-cooled At thehilltop, thepleasant Sights makes thetwo. acomplete loopbetween studded Yerushalayim St,which (Jerusalem) side –thehillis scored bythe restaurant- town centre directly opposite on thewest ontheeastsideandold the busstation Tsfat isspread over asinglehilltop,with &Information Orientation the birdsareeven grounded. turnupduringShabbat,cumstances when butdon’tunderanycir-visit onweekdays, of Jewish mysticism.Itmakes apleasant andarich heritage setting ate, high-altitude Tzfatspelt Zefat, orSafed) enjoys atemper- The attractive hilltoptownof Tsfat (also x TSFAT car andmake thecircuit onadaytrip. from Hotel Aviv. Ifyou’re inahurry,hire a bikemountain (30NISto40NISperday) In Tiberias, anyonecanrent an18-speed two-daycircuit. sible tocyclistsinaneasy of are Galilee acces- road aroundtheSea but themainsites alongtherelatively level from towntootherpartsof thelakeshore, is viaTiberias. There’s ashortageof buses of Galilee accesstotheSea All long-distance weekdays US$70/90, weekends US$80/95; weekdays US$70/90,weekends ing isrequired forweekends. minimumbook- fish. Note thatatwo-night garden restaurant specialisingingrilled 16NIS. Thesite alsofeatures anacclaimed but atourof thekibbutzwillcostanextra ettes andcableTV. Priceincludesbreakfast has166unitswithkitchen- butz, EinGev onaworkingagriculturalanddairykib- Set Ein Gev Resort Resort Ein Gev 04 /pop26,400 ) On Kibbutz Ginosar, thisplace pro- OnKibbutzGinosar,

( x 665 9800;www.eingev.org.il; s/d Gan HaMetsuda Gan pnas ﺗﺼﻔﺪ צפתﺗﻔ wasonce )

except duringShabbat. to malevisitors. Photography ispermitted ders andcardboardyarmulkes are available women shouldavoid bare anklesorshoul- Prospective visitors shoulddress modestly; 40NIS; pna St;dm/s/d89/153/224NIS;1086; 1LohameiHaGeta’ot ofsafed.com; dm/d60/180NIS; .org and www.thirtysevenbooks.com. .org andwww.thirtysevenbooks.com. check outthewebsites www.kabalaonline anyone; foranintroductiontotheconcept, of Yerushalayim StneartheJavits Ststeps. there’s alsoasupermarket attheeastern end fruit-and-vegetable market onWednesday; of Israel’smostinspiringviews. There’s a layim St,which are accompanied bysome Yerusha- onpedestrianised establishments Tsfat’s mainattraction isarange of eating Eating Beit BinyaminHIHostel Sleeping at thewell-known and general Jewish mysticismare available Courses inTorahteachings, theKabbalah Courses Synagogue Ashkenazi the synagoguesare worthavisit:the communities. 1929 riotsthatdividedtheArabandJewish bytheBritishaftertor wasdeveloped the way of stair-layim St,dividedbythebroad,stiff it’s justbelow theHaPalmach Stoverpass. An excellent felafel andshwarmaoption; the central bus station. the centralbusstation. option inTsfat. Take busNos6or7from but atthetimeof writingitwasthecheapest This placeismore thanalittleinstitutional, the towncentre. Allrates includebreakfast. slog)from hostel isabout2km(andastiff centre of Yerushalayim St. of . It’safive-minute walkfromthe open toJews whoare studyingatAscent 1364; www.ascentofsafed.com) on itional Jewish neighbourhood thatfocuses northofstairway theCityHall, isatrad- California Felafel California The Art Café Café Art Ascent ofSafedHostel Ascent Kikar HaMaganim Kikar h Synagogue Quarter 9.30am-midnight) Ma’alot Olei HaGardom St OleiHaGardom Ma’alot ) Sittingattheedge of town,this ( x 682 0928; Yerushalayim St; dishes30-

(Yerushalayim St; snacks5-10NIS) (Yerushalayim (Defenders’ Sq).Twoof andthe Poking over theedge Ascent ofSafed Ascent GALILEE ••Tsfat

( . Classes are. Classes open to

x n ( , accessed viathe, accessed x 692 1364;www.ascent ) Thishostel is Cairo Synagogue Cairo 697 3514;fax692 . Thissec-

( x Ha’Ari Ha’Ari 323 692

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES the first Jewish Here in Galilee. settlement the hill westof themain road junction, was 32-55NIS; and details on thelatest operators.and details Hostels inTiberias canprovide information which willcostanaverage of US$38perday. prefer aguidedtourof theregional highlights, tional parksandnature reserves. especially iftheyincludehikingin thena- twodaysinthearea,should planatleast Israel. Independenttravellers withavehicle more toexplore difficult than therest of andtheGolan Heightsthe UpperGalilee more aridplainsof Syria,totheeast. thefertilebetween Jordan Valley andthe Golan Heights barrier toformatense rises The chain of peaksknownasthe high which provides mostof Israel’sfresh water. the HulaValley toformtheJordanRiver, streams These flowtogethermountains. in ery watered fromthesurrounding byrunoff The isanareaUpper Galilee of lushgreen- THE GOLANHEIGHTS & Tel Aviv (51NIS). 7pm (4pmonFriday),andtwicedailyto hourly toTiberias (20NIS,onehour)until 30 minutes until9pm(5.45pmonFriday), runtoHaifaBuses (34NIS, twohours) every &Away There Getting and adairymenuof pizzasandpastas. of face,thiscaféoffers views thecliff sweeping 324 Settlement Site Settlement bohemian colony. The1882 ating its former reputation asalaid-back make theirwaytoRoshPina,reinvigor- Recent years have arushof artists seen x PINA ROSH entrées. Italsoenjoysagreat terrace view. aswell as dinner andsandwiches, soup, salad upbreakfasts, blintzes, ian restaurant serves Those with limited time and money may withlimited timeandmoneymay Those A shortage of publictransportmakes Café

04 /pop2300 UPPERGALILEE&THEGOLANHEIGHTS••RoshPina העליון h 9am-midnight) اﻟﺠﻮﻻن اﻟﺠﻮﻻن

( ( x x

הגליל 697 4065;61Yerushalayim St;dishes 693 6603) Thisdairyandvegetar- ﺑﻨﻴﺎ راس פינהرسﺑﻴ , about1.5km up RoshPina Pioneer & & اﻟﺠﻠﻴﻞ הגולן

ראש

through the incongruous waterthrough holes. water nutriasploughing fowl. You’llalsosee tract ducks,coots, moorhensandother hide overlooks pondsandwetlandsthat at- on anunmarked side road.Here, anelevated 12km southof KiryatShmona then3kmeast Tehila nature of thatmedium!). confections (awholenewtwistonthesinful Lachermon HacholotzimSt;d380-680NIS; Tuesday and Thursday (callahead). Buses 9.30am and 1.30pm on Saturday, Sunday, Free guided tours are conducted between eucalyptus forest andwetland environment. pelicans, hasavisitors centre that explainsits known foritsmigrating flocksof storksand is ing waterfowl. Thebestwildlife-viewing spot ley attractslotsof migratorybirdsandnest- upper JordanRiver, thebeautiful HulaVal- Thanks toareflooding project alongthe x VALLEY HULA Café Chocolate You mayalsowanttocheck outthebizarre asrestaurants, galleriesandpubs. to serve toric buildingsthathave renovated been his- you’ll findcobbledstreets andseveral child 23/14NIS; colourful the and woodcabinets.Inthebasement, quilts,brass fittingslocal art,hand-sewn guest roomsare beautifullydecorated with rooms andabilliardshall.Theupstairs courtyard leadstoantique-filled reading ens, ducks,turtlesandponies,theinner the variousenclosures forrabbits,chick- commodation option.Onceyouget past gets ourvote forIsrael’smostuniqueac- 11pm) Tiberias, Tsfat andKiryatShmona. Settlement. justbelowthePioneer on themainroad isrequiredstay onweekends. It’slocated Commandments Heston inhisportrayalof in Moses bears astrikingresemblance toCharlton pub are runbyajollyretired journalistwho you aren’t here. staying Boththehotel and is worthvisitingontheweekend if even Hula Lake The The idiosyncratic luxury guesthouse The idiosyncraticluxuryguesthouse Rosh Pina lies on the bus routes between Rosh Pinaliesonthebusroutes between 04 , which specialises inX-rated, which chocolate specialises

( x Hula Nature Reserve Hula Nature Blues BrothersPub 693 5336;www.villa-tehila.co.il; 10Mabat intheHaHula Reflooding Site, h

( x 8am-5pm Sat-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) وادي اﻟﺤﻮﻟﺔ החולה ﻟﻮﺔود . A two-night minimum. Atwo-night 686 0647; HaRishonim St; 686 0647;HaRishonim www.lonelyplanet.com

( h ( x 9am-late Thu-Sat) pnas 693 7069;adult/ h

, best עמק Villa Villa 9am- Ten Ten )

Upper Galilee&The Golan Heights www.lonelyplanet.com tacks, resultingtacks, in more casualties. At Tel it atarget forHezbollah (Party of God)at- proximity borderhas made tothe Lebanese at nearby in1920.Since then,its Jewishnamed for theeight killed settlers Kiryat Shmona, the‘townof was the eight’, x KIRYAT SHMONA west of thereserve. drop youatthesignposted junction2.5km RoshPinaandKiryat Shmonabetween will .co.il; sUS$80-100, dUS$120-160) between Kiryat Shmonabetween andRoshPina. lies 3km eastof guesthouse, the mainroad 4 1 3 2 UPPER GALILEE&THEGOLANHEIGHTS Haifa (78km) To Akko(63km); Kibbutz KfarBlum Kibbutz 04 /pop22,000 L EBANO Pioneer Settlement To Tiberias(5km); Rosh Pina Tsfat Haifa (62km) 899 AC ﺷﻤﻮﻧﺔ ﻛﺮﻳﺎت שמונה קרית שמונה ﻛﺮﻳﺎت ﺷﻤﻮﻧﺔ To (90km) Yesud HaMa'ala Tel Khatsor 85

( Khatsor HaGlilit Junction x Rosh Pina Tel Hai 886 Shmona Rosh Pina HaGalil Junction Korazim Vered 694 8409;www.kfarblum-hotel Kiryat 5 , with a comfortable , withacomfortable Mahanayim 90 Junction HaMa'ala Korazim Reserve Nature 90 Yesud 9 Nature Reserve Metulla

Lyon 11

Nahal Nahal Iyon Reserve Valley Nature Dubrovin GALILEE UPPER Hula Hula Lake Hula Farm UPPER GALILEE & THE GOLAN HEIGHTS •• Kiryat Shmona UPPER GALILEE&THEGOLANHEIGHTS••Kiryat 977 B 4 Nature Reserve HaYarden Park B'not Ya'acov 918 888 Jordan River Nahal Bridge Yehudiya Jct. Gilabon Reserve Reflooding Nature HaHula Nature Reserve 3 10 918

THE GOLAN Dan Site Nahal 1 HEIGHTS Tel Dan Waterfall 6 Reserve admission 15NIS; Photography the may wanttosee Zionist regiments intheBritish Army. 10am-2pm Fri) Shomrim at KibbutzKfar Gil’adi,the the timeof research. Immediately north, Museum have converted been intothe Hai, theoriginalwatchtower andstockade Ha Tova), which proverbially makes for can saunter uptothe Israeli and international photographers. which displays theworkof many renowned Nature Dvorah Waterfall Banias Near Tel Hai, butwestof you thehighway, Above thefrontier townof Metulla, you 9088 99 91 2 12 Nature Reserve Nature Reserve National Castle Nimrod Park 87 , butthiswasunderrenovation at Yehudia Nahal

978 (adult/child 10/5NIS; 978 989 documentsthehistory of WWI

Zavitan Mas'ada ( Neve 959 x Ativ h 808 Buq'ata 695 0769;www.open-museums.co.il; 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 10am-5pmSat) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES rud...... C4 Ground...... B2 Yehudia NatureReserveCamping B2 Tel HaiH1Hostel...... B2 Khorshat TalNatureReserve...... Hotel KfarGil’adi...... SPNI HermonFieldStudyCentre..(see6) D1 Museum oftheShomrim...... (see5) D3 Mt HermonSkiCentre...... C2 Mitzpe Quneitra...... B2 Kibbutz Snir...... B2 Kibbutz KfarGil’adi...... B2 Kibbutz KfarBlum...... C4 Kibbutz Dan...... Katzrin Park...... Golan HeightsWinery...... (see2) Photography...... (see11) B1 Eli LembergerMuseumof Beit UssishkinMuseum...... 98 6miles 10km 0 0 Mt HermonHighway Majdal Shams Ram Birket Eli Lemberger Museum of Museum Eli Lemberger Good Fence Toll Gate 8 98 Keshet 7 h Israeli Line 1974 DISENGAGEMENT Quneitra Shalom (25km) 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, ZONE To Mitzpe Museum ofthe Museum D (HaGader Settlement Settlement S YRIA

To Damascus 12 11 10 1974 Line Syrian 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 325

,

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES .il; sUS$70-90,dUS$90-110) fast, additional meals arefast, additionalmeals US$18each. somewhat newer. Allrates includebreak- outdoor activities.Thedeluxe roomsare gym,tennis courtsandorganised a sauna, ing indoorandoutdoorswimmingpools, getaway witharange of amenities,includ- Kfar situated Gil’adi,thisisabeautifully 4pm Fri) h and ahostof modernruins. bunkers, bombed-outvillages, minefields trenches,You’ll alsosee bomb shelters, derful nationalparks andnature reserves. ments, traditional Druzevillages andwon- a lovely area of rich agricultural develop- countries. Despite the conflicts, itremains in normalisingrelations thetwo between today theGolanisamajor stumblingblock Israel remained atloggerheads and still (mediated bytheUnited Syriaand States), 1973. Despite negotiationsduringthe1990s fully defended itintheYomKippurWarof during the1967SixDayWarand success- fully occupiedthisformerSyrian territory annexed byIsraelin1981, after itforce- Jordan River andtheSyrian border,was The beautifulGolanHeights, the between HEIGHTS GOLAN the HulaValley and RoshPina. Shmona toTiberias (26NIS,1½hours) via Bus Nos541,841and963connectKiryat &Away There Getting Tel HaiHIHostel Sleeping &Eating Reserve ping youfromlookingaround. when wevisited, butthere isnothingstop- good neighbours. Theplacewasdeserted 326 From the dramatic Shalom Mitzpe is included. expensive thanmostHIhostels. Breakfast friendly andfunctionaloption,butmore a quicklegstretch. cluding 18m impressiveRiver andseveral waterfalls, in- view across all of the Sea of and view acrossall of Galilee, the Sea dm/s/d 95/195/260NIS; East ofEast theMetulla road, Hotel KfarGil’adi Hotel 9am-5pm) UPPERGALILEE&THEGOLANHEIGHTS••GolanHeights encompasses thevalleyof encompasses theIyon

(adult/child 18/8NIS;8am-5pmSun-Thu 8am- lookout atHaruv you’llhave a Tanur Falls

( x ( pna x Mitzpe Shalom Mitzpe 694 0043;[email protected]; 690 0000;www.kfar-giladi.co Located onKibbutz . It’sagreat placefor Nahal Iyon Nature IyonNature Nahal اﻟﺠﻮﻻن הגולןاﺠﻻ ) Thisplaceis שלום מצפה שלום

( x 676 1991;

Shmona (32NIS,11.15am,1½hours). follows thescenicroute viaMas’ada toKiryat and 2pm).Adailybus(exceptSaturday) also nect Katzrin withTiberias (25NIS,6am,7am 25NIS, 6am,7amand2pm,45minutes), con- in thearea. thatcanrecommend hikes andstaff house atc 6s-m 66-sq-km tastic facerather thansubmit. leapt off thecliff reportsFlavius thatanother5000 killed 4000Jewish thehistorian inhabitants; AD 67,three legions of theRoman army Roman on 12October,intheyear Gamla the ruinsof theancientJewish stronghold, pna Fri) (adult/child 23/14NIS; pools. freshwater and pastlovely, feathery waterfalls and some terrific canyons hikingalongdeep South of Katzrin, alarge wildarea presents &Yehudia Reserves Gamla .golanwines.co.il) Sat) h 10am-4pmSat) 8am-3pm Fri, ( is theancientTalmudic village at soporific regional worthwhile Highly base. Golan Heights’ makes ‘capital’, adecentif The plannedcommunityof Katzrin, the x Katzrin distance. Tiberiassee spillingdownthe slopes inthe and a large network of hikingtracks. The gramme, the andanaudiovisualconstructed houses pro- remains of a3rd-centurysynagogue,twore- logical Museum logical asthelocaltouristoffice. This alsoserves child 23/14NIS) laudable coveries fromGamlaandKatzrin Park. The to Thursday. ing) duringbusinesshours fromSunday conducts tours (20NISincludingwinetast- x preserves both alarge preserves naturalarea and Three perday(exceptSaturday, buses Between Gamla andKatzrin liesthe fan- Between Another highlight isthe Another highlight SPNI Field School , inthetowncentre, which features dis- 9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-1.30pm 9am-1.30pmFri, 04 /pop7000 696 2412;adult/child22/14NIS; , overlooking of Ina Galilee. theSea יהודיה Golan HeightsWinery ) has a clean and comfortable guest- hasacleanandcomfortable , where there’s acamping ground Talmudic Experience , onthewestsideof Katzrin,

נחל ( x Yehudia Reserve Nature

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696 1350;adult/student15/12NIS; x של 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-3pm Nature Gamla 696 1234; Daliyat St; d 245NIS; 696 1234;DaliyatSt;d245NIS;

, which includesthe הטבע www.lonelyplanet.com h

( שמורת x Golan Archaeo- 8am-5pm Sun-Thu,

ﻛﺘﺮﻳﻦ קצרין ﺘﻳ (admission 10NIS) 696 8420;www Katzrin Park Katzrin &

גמלא (adult/

.

4pm) Park hilltop surroundings in fortress aboveCrusader inIsraelrises its than 2km eastof thebest-preserved Banias, marked memorial. Less byawhite cliffside cave, the grave of theprophetElijahis good forbothsites). On ahillabove the gate byaseparate –one ticketaccessed is lovely aswell the Cave sanctuary in theBanias known asthe takesNahal Hermon Reserve, Sat 31/26NIS) are alsoafew placestostay. oftourist settlement Ativ,whereNeve there tion, visitthe toll road(30NISpervehicle). Forinforma- at roadsidestalls. goat cheese soldbylocalDruze villagers here, theunleavened sample bread with the 1967SixDayWar. Alongtheroad tened bytheIDFbefore itretreated after townofto theSyrianghost Mas’ada, youcanlookacrosstheborder Quneitra Mitzpe occupation of the GolanHeights. Atthe thority andcontinuetoprotest theIsraeli theirautonomyfromIsraeliau- maintain Mas’ada, ontheslopesof MtHermon, The Druzevillages of Majdal Shams and Shams&Mas’ada Majdal Field School inKatzrin (see opposite ). ‘Golan Heights’ mapavailable attheSPNI doing alotof walking,pickupa1:50,000 swimmable pools.Ifyouare goingtobe mations, aswellcanyons,waterfalls and past someinteresting for- hexagonalbasalt hikepopular five-hour leads NahalZavitan www.lonelyplanet.com h gion, One of spotsinthere- themostspectacular Castle Nimrod & Reserve Banias Nature .skihermon.co.il) To reach the available fromlate DecembertoearlyApril. Limited skifacilities areSyria andLebanon. peakinIsrael,which issharedhighest with Heights 2224mMtHermon, rises the Hermon In thenortheastern cornerof theGolan Mt ﻣﺴﻌﺪT 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-2pmFri) . Bus No 55 from Kiryat Shmona passes . Bus No55from Kiryat Shmona passes

( x Banias Nature Reserve Banias Nature Banias waterfall

و

04-694 9277;adult/child 18/9NIS; ﺷﻤﺲ , drivers theMtHermon mustuse , down the mountain inthe, downthemountain ski lifts lifts ski

viewpoint,15kmsouthof ﻣﺠﺪل שאמסﻣﺪ ski centre centre ski , about1kmaway (and (adult/child Sun-Fri 27/24NIS, (adult/child Sun-Fri נמרוד ﺟﺒﻞ National Nimrod Castle ( x

ﻫﺮﻣﻦ הרמון הר הרמון ﻫﺮﻣﻦ (adult/child 23/14NIS;

דל , which isalso קלעת קלעת 04-698 1337;www Quneitra ‘ מג & & h מסעדה בניאס , flat- 8am-

outpost. and becamethenorthernmostIsraelite bythetribeof Dan in the12thcenturyBC as thecityof butwasconquered Leshem, site wasfirst inthe5thcenturyBC settled sishkin Museum sishkin bus No25,26or36.Theadjacent and ashtrees. FromKiryatShmona, take bubbling waters of andancientstands oak spot isbestknownforitswalkingtracks, 23/12NIS; exploration. of NationalPark EinGedi also meritsome by travellers, thehikingtracksandsprings notaswellfrequentedattraction. Though which is probablyIsrael’smostenigmatic tory float,don’tmisstheruinsat Masada, real intheworld.After estate theobliga- shoreline isthelowestbitofDead Sea dry the level, ofAt anelevation 400mbelowsea SEA DEAD Hermon Field StudyCentre which alsooffers basicbungalows.The in served are pre- ruins(2700–2400 BC) Canaanite ested area of naturalsprings andancient ofEast KiryatShmona, anappealingfor- Dan Tel to thewest. and 36passbyKibbutzDan,which is6km twicedailyandbusNos25,26 by Banias authored the scrolls from 150 BC to AD 68, toAD68, authored thescrolls from 150BC and caves of theEssenes, ran in1947. Thesite includesthe settlement inJerusalem,seum were discovered atQum- Scrolls Sea in thehistoryof theJewish people’,the discoveryDescribed as‘themostimportant x QUMRAN tages set onoak-shadedlawns. tages set and extensive natural-historyexhibits. tures anaudiovisual programme,dioramas h 1480; d245NIS) Tal Reserve Nature This popularandoften crowdedpicnic Camping isavailable atnearby Camping 02 9am-4pm Sun-Thu, 10am-4pmSat) 9am-3pmFri, اﻟﻤﻴﺖ h , nowon displayattheIsrael Mu- Tel Reserve DanNature 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-3pmFri) , atKibbutzSnir,hasguestcot-

اﻟﺒﺤﺮ המלח ﻟﺤ ( x

DEAD SEA ••Qumran SEA DEAD ( x 694 1704;adult/child18/15NIS; 694 2360;campsites15NIS) ﻫ;ﺒﻪ

the Jewish that sect ( x

دان ﺗﻴﻞ דן תל דן ﺗﻴﻞ دان ﻗﻤﺮان קומרן ﻤا 694 1091;fax695

(adult/child Khorshat Khorshat Beit Us- . The

Dead Dead fea- ים SPNI 327

,

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES a simplerestaurant. hasabarand cated thehighway, 1.5kmoff child 35/30NIS,campsites/huts perperson45/60NIS) Qumran. mineral creams products. andbeauty books,souvenirs,and shopsselling DeadSea multimedia programme,asmall museum Roman invaders. werewhen theEssenes disbandedbythe Dead SeaRegion 328 ful oasis of gardens anddate palms. Itoffers Park. This kibbutz-hotel occupies a beauti- is located 1km fromQumran National admission 25NIS) 2235; adult/child18/8NIS) .kalia.org.il; s/dinclbreakfast 250/320NIS; .kalia.org.il; Be'ersheva (44km) To

Works Plant

Dimona To Judean JERUSALEM Desert DEAD SEAREGION Dead Sea 60 Kibbutz Kalia GuestHouse Kalia Kibbutz There are alsoacoupleof beaches at To Eilat(164km) DEAD SEA ••EinGedi SEA DEAD Arad Bethlehem Sound &Light 60 Masada 258 25 Show ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ Neve Midbar Beach Midbar Neve Wadi David National Park Monastery Mar Saba N EGV National Park Neve Zohar T HE

is slightly better isslightly value. 31

Ein Gedi Wadi Kibbutz KaliaGuestHouse Junction Masada Dead Sea Qumran 1 Works 458 Metzoke Dragot Nebi Musa

Masada Aru Qumran NationalPark

Sodom Plain of Sodom of Plain includes a seven-minute includesaseven-minute B ANK W EST

got 12miles 20km 0 0 449 Kalia Beach Kalia 90 Masada Tourist 90 Ne’ot HaKikarReserve Mineral Qumran Ein Gedi Jericho Complex Beach Mineral Beach Ein Gedi Lashon Peninsula Spa Spa Border Crossing Dead Sea Metzoke Junction

Allenby Bridge 90 Dragot

( ( Ein Feshka Evaporation Ponds Almog x x Reserve Costigan Neve Midbar pnas Junction Almog Kalia Beach Safi 993 6333;www 994 2781;adult/ Cape

449 ( Attrakzia J ORDAN x Beach 90 994 2391;

Suweimeh No Border ( Crossing x Muji , lo- Wadi al- 994 994 b ) Beach spacomplex of thebestplacestobatheis One forKibbutzEinGedi. and theturnoff restaurantrol station, andcampingground, 23/12NIS) .co.il; admission35NIS) spa bathingbeach turies AD. fromthe3rdto6thcen- which wasused floor, with anespeciallyinspiringmosaic the ruinsof synagogue anancienttrapezoid hot spa. Rates includehalfboard. hot spa. Rates rounded bylush gardens, withapooland ties Park The neighbouring summer, thetrailsare openonehourlater. 3pm andWadiAragotfrom8amto2pm;in hikers canenter WadiDavid from8amto wildlife.for desert Inthewinter months, on itdaily,continuestoprovide ahaven of rampagingschool groupsthatdescend tropical vegetation. Despite thebusloads freshwater springs,waterfalls, andlush s US$122-143,dUS$174-204) psyche. In 150 BC, afortresspsyche. was builtatop In 150BC, figures prominently in the Israeli Dead Sea, above risinghigh Masada, mesa adesert the x MASADA dm/s 75/130NIS,d190-305NIS; Hostel Beit Sarah Sleeping &Eating NationalPark Ein Gedi x GEDI EIN available forUS$7toUS$10. a heated riding.Meals poolandhorse are baths. withitspools,mudand sulphur Ein Gedi, Rates includebreakfast.Rates ofpies thefinestsetting anyIsraelihostel. 250m fromthebusstop,thishostel occu- dinner is38NISto 45NIS. over the lake. includebreakfast Rates and andchangingwatch themagicallight scene hikes. afewpoint forearly Stay days and enjoys great viewsandisanexcellentlaunch on thehillsideabove Sarah,thisplace Beit .il; dm/s/dUS$21/39.50/60; South you’llfindthe of thereserve, SPNI Field School Kibbutz EinGedi Kibbutz 08 08 is a paradise of isaparadise dramaticcanyons,

(adult/child 12/6NIS;

(admission free; showers8NIS)

( , located 15kmnorthof ( (

x x x ( x Ein Gedi NationalAntiqui- Ein Gedi pna

659 4222; www.ein-gedi.co.il; 659 4222;www.ein-gedi.co.il; Has sur- aguesthouse 658 4165;[email protected] 02-994 4888;www.dead-sea ( 658 4288;www.teva.org.il; x www.lonelyplanet.com h ﺟﺪي ﻋﻴﻦ גדי עין גדי ﻋﻴﻦ ﺟﺪي pna 658 4285;adult/child 8am-4pm) ﻣﺴﻌﺪأ מצדה ﺴﺪ ) Uphilland ) Perched includes Mineral Mineral Ein Gedi Ein Gedi , pet-

4207; [email protected]) ably more popular Arad side. guarded byamassive to theworld. torelay in awater thetale cistern, survived people,who’dhiddenbodies; onlyseven stormed thefortress, theydiscovered 960 WhentheRomans mitting suicidehimself. end, oneof killedtherest these before com- elected toslaytherest of theirmen.Inthe to invadethefortress, 10Jewish menwere the Romansconstructed anearthenramp Resistance. Faced as withimminentattack which becamethelastoutpostof Jewish of fledtoMasada, Jerusalem, theZealots and burningin AD66,after thesacking the Jewish againsttheRomans First Revolt the Great, itasaretreat. whoused During fortified andimproved byHerod in43BC this superbnaturallookout,andwasre- www.lonelyplanet.com dm/s/d 78/162/224NIS; Isaac HTaylor HIHostel Sleeping &Eating dorms withbreakfast included. Sleeping bus stop this hostel provides college-style Light show March toOctober, theMasada hand-held audio guideadd15NIS.From turn 45/61NIS,childone way/return 22/34NIS) Path’ andsinuous on footviathesteep Thesummitruinsaresada. accessible introductory videoonthehistory of Ma- restaurant andtheatre thatshowsashort Once adustyoutpost,Masada isnow eyes, youmustimmediately flushthemwith fresh water. burn yourthroatforhalfanhour. Itgoeswithoutsayingthatifyousplashthis water inyour cuts orgrazes you’dinstantlyassimilate –infact, thephrase‘torubsaltintowound’. owners andcosmeticcompanies. effect onthyroidfunctions. Notsurprisingly,thisisallloudlyproclaimedbylocalhealth-spa allergies andclearsbronchialpassages;iodine,whichisessentialtogoodhealth,hasabeneficial iodine. Bromine,acomponentofmanysedatives, relaxes magnesiumcounteracts skin thenerves; water, theDeadSeahas20timesmore bromine,15timesmore magnesiumand10timesmore creating anoilybrothinwhichpeoplecanfloat. oxygen upfresh thatmake overwhelm hydrogen,onepart water,that virtually thetwoparts The water inthe Dead Sea,whilesurprisinglyclear,isdeceptively ladenwithmicroscopicsolids SEA DEAD THE

Similarly, swallowingeven adropofthisfoul-tastingbrew willinduceretching andmaywell unhealthyifyouhaveHealthy ornot,wadingintotheDeadSeamayseemdistinctly exposed The ingredients uptheDeadSea read thatmake ascienceexperiment:compared like toocean (adult/child 19/12NIS)

( x 995 9333) pna cable car

( orontheconsider- x ispresented onthe tourist complex tourist 658 4349;fax 6584650; ) BytheMasada

, includinga (adult oneway/re- Sound-and- . Fora

( x ‘Snake ‘Snake 658 ea’s numerous military bases; forthe latest bases; ea’s numerous military of isa firing zone for the ar- theNegev orEilat.Note that muchMitzpe Ramon visit the SPNI fieldschools at SdeBoker, Forroutetains. information andmaps, Timna National Park andtheEilatMoun- derness of Zin,EnAvedat, Maktesh Ramon, ing therecommended SdeBoker, theWil- some of Israel’sbesthikingvenues, includ- nomadic tent-dwelling . ricultural projects, as well as75,000semi- area supportsanumberof ag- experimental tion ton ofIsrael’s subtropicaltoehold Eilat.Inaddi- and Arad,MitzpeRamon are Be’ersheva, national area, buttheonlytownsof anysize ern wedge of halfthe Israel,takes innearly inhabited thesparsely The Negev, south- THE NEGEV ( (39NIS, twohours) andfourEilat buses there are about ninedailyJerusalem buses show).Fortheformer,Sound-and-Light plex andsummitaccess)orArad(forthe (fortheyouthhostel, tourist com- Dead Sea You canapproach Masada fromeitherthe &Away There Getting garden. upatentthe hostel inits willletyouset out onMasada isnolonger permitted, but 55NIS, fourhours). Not surprisingly, the Negev presentsNot surprisingly, theNegev umerous military bases, this desert desert this bases, umerous military ﺳﺤﺮأ

أﻟﻌﻘﺒﺔ הנגבأﻌﺒ THE NEGEV THE NEGEV

329

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Kanyon shoppingcentre. There are plentyof banksintheadjacent 8km fromthekibbutz. Aviv, which will drop youatthejunction Alternatively, busNo369towardsTel use withoutallowingtimefor avisit. Be’ersheva once daily,butimmediately headsbackto 4pm Thu) tures the fea- AllonCentre Kiryat Gatroad,theJoe minutes, onceortwiceperhour). take busNo31(9.80NIS,10bus station 6km westof the centre. Fromthecentral Thu, 8am-1pmFri) .iaf-museum.org.il; admission26NIS; The much-vaunted Sights &Activities as youleave. to offer istheviewfromrear window of it’slikely themostsatisfaction Negev, press it’sthe‘capital’ many,andalthough anddusty, Scruffy won’tim- Be’ersheva x BE’ERSHEVA office information, phonethe 330 10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-7pm Sat) Le-Y’israel St;dishes40NIS; Kayemet 112 Keren Beit Yatziv HI Hostel Sleeping &Eating liver etc. on Ashkenazi specialities: kebabs, schnitzel, meat-oriented sit-downmeals. Thefocusis is the not anespeciallyinteresting visit. experience. it’s Whilethat’sfairenough, definitely lessaculturalthancommercial theoddcamel,butit’s world. Youmaysee knock-offsSt-Laurent asanyoneinthe are asinterestedBedouin inNike andYves Fri) cost US$11. includebreakfastRates and othermeals but thishostel hasagarden andnocurfew. 3322; admission20NIS; Sts) 185/280NIS; [email protected]; 79Ha’Atzma’utSt;dm/s/d102/ . BusNo42runsdirectly tothekibbutz On Kibbutz , off the Be’ersheva to theBe’ersheva off On KibbutzLahav, The Be’ersheva’s mostworthwhileattraction Be’ersheva’s Yitzhak’s Bulgarian Restaurant Bulgarian Yitzhak’s isjustnorthof thecentralbusstation. 08 /pop183,200 THE NEGEV ••Be’ersheva THENEGEV

( Israeli AirForceMuseum x provides thattheIsraeli evidence main postoffice pnas 08-990 2294) Museum ofBedouin Culture Museum , at the Khatserim IAF base IAFbase , attheKhatserim h

. ( Bedouin market x 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am-2pm )

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10am- באר 6am- 991 4 HaAtadSt;dm/s/d/tr 63/164/198/248NIS) adult/child 18/9NIS) bataean ruins. bataean of extensive andimpressive 1st-centuryNa- other 31NIS. tional atmosphere. For breakfast addan- rooms inadistinctlyinstitu- comfortable mail.com; 37 HaGiladSt;s/d180/200NIS; Blau-Weiss HIHostel Sleeping &Eating Rd; out the gift shops,studiosandworkshops.Check the oldhangers, garages andfactoriesinto of town.Nearly20 artists have transformed abandoned industrialzone,2kmsouthwest Artist’s Quarter, inan beingdeveloped attractive additiontothecity is EshetLot rounding wealthof mineraldeposits.An community thatbenefitsfromitssur- mona isArad,alethargic eastern Negev orDi- More appealingthanBe’ersheva x ARAD business days. (25.50NIS, 1½hours) hourlyon roughly tion, youcantravel toTel comfortably Aviv which isadjacenttothecentralbussta- half-hour.least every and forArad(14.80NIS,45minutes) runat forDimona(9.80NIS,30minutes) services (23NIS,1¼hours). BusMitzpe Ramon departmorebuses hourvia orlessevery 1½ hours). ForEilat(55NIS,three hours), toJerusalem (32NIS, at leasthalf-hourly utes toTel Aviv (13.80NIS,1½hours) and 20min- run every On businessdays,buses &Away There Getting own sittingroom and kitchen. Breakfast Offers four private suites, each with their 554 0002;SadanUnit4) Arad lies the site. of East Dimona,ontheroadto Arad junctionandwalkthefinal 2kmto get attheTel off bus towardsBe’ersheva, Takecity fromthe3rdcenturyBC. any town, includestheruinsof aBronzeAge featuring live music onweekends. h artist GideonFridman,and Zimmer Paz B&B From Be’ersheva’s central train station, centraltrainstation, From Be’ersheva’s e Aa Ntoa Park National Arad Tel h 08 /pop24,500 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-3pmFri) 10am-5pm Sat-Thu, 10am-3pmFri) Glass Museum Mamshit NationalPark Mamshit , which features acomplex

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abarandconcerthall x ( x

(www.warmglassil.com; Sadan 054 4708694; rivkapaz@hot 995 7150;[email protected]; www.lonelyplanet.com

(adult/child 18/9NIS; Studio 11 , 8kmwestof

( openedby x Typically pna اﺮاﺪ ערדاا 659 1543;

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adult/child 10/7NIS; 2pm Fri, 9am-3pmSat) 2pm Fri, Israelites runasmall to the SdeBoker, a time of his deathin 1973. Attheentrance from Be’ersheva. from Be’ersheva. asyouenter thetownonroad station an Aradinstitution.It’snexttotheAlongas pub, thischarming local watering holeis rious mixof Texas andBritish roadhouse first ( but you’llget better attention bycalling fined sugarorflour. Visitors are welcome, orre- dairyproducts, fish,eggs, eat meat, ganism, asAfricanHebrew Israelisdon’t restrictionsetary are avariationonve- andnatural-fibrejewellery clothing.Di- own school, andmembers make theirown group of around2000peopleoperates its enclave, thismotivated andself-contained Hebrew Israelite Community.Inonesmall townistheAfricanest inthisbleakdesert nuclear weaponsfacility),themaininter- mona isthesite of Israel’sno-longer-secret Unless you’re involved in espionage (Di- x DIMONA 10.15am, 1pmand3.45pm. (20.50NIS)at departforEinGedi Buses (14.80NIS, 45minutes).from Be’ersheva Yehuda, runtwiceperhourtoand buses From thecentralbusterminal onRehov &Away There Getting jump byaround50NIS. costs anadditional40NIS.Weekend prices www.lonelyplanet.com modest point forJewish the contains history buffs, thing fromafew hours toacoupleof days. meritany- andMitzpeRamon Be’ersheva stopsalongtheroute betweenThese x SDE BOKER&AVDAT half board100NIS) 30 minutes). (9.80NIS, frequently toandfromBe’ersheva domofyah.com. mation, consulttheirwebsite: www.king (meals25NIS).Formoretaurant infor- Muza Pub Sde Boker Kibbutz,apopularstopping From thecentralbusterminal, run buses 08 /pop29,300 08 x home ofDavid Ben-Gurion 657 3286).TheAfricanHebrew

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(beds with 656 0469; Acu- 23/12; 8am-5pmSun-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) tory, alongwith afilm aboutthe park. Maktesh intriguing natural his- Ramon’s of andpresentstourist office anoverview 4pm Fri) 8691; adult/child 23/12NIS; stop. Advancebookingisessential. rental andtransportfromtheSdeBoker bus mountain-biketourist information,meals, 23/12NIS; tohelptimeyourhike.heading off, 1½ hours). Ask forabusschedule before tohitch orwaitforabus(oneevery need to return tothenorthernentranceyou’ll that thisisaone-wayhike, soifyouneed walk isattheendof a3kmpaved road.Note Avedat Zin hikers the canamble through Krivine’s ing –butbesure tocarry lotsof water. wild wonderland is goodfordaysof wander- onfoot;this centre off into thedesert andset mapatthevisitors Nature Reserve Ramon work of hikingroutes. Pick upaMakhtesh find far-ranging viewsand anextensive net- All alongthisdramatic‘watchtower’, you’ll ures 8kmwideand40kmlong. 300mdeep, dramatic town enjoysanimpressive acrossthe vista cordingly, thissmallbutengaging desert Mitzpe x of gravesite tothenorthernentrance isclose andhiswife Paula.of Ben-Gurion The are setting, thegraves clifftop spectacular Around 3kmsouthof thekibbutz,ata 20-minute film(7NIS)aboutthekibbutz. The ammonite-shaped Information dm/s/d 75/145/215NIS) Mediterranean coast. Petraalong thetraderoute between andthe asa itserved 2nd centuryBC, the hill.Constructed inthe byNabataeans camel-caravan sculpture onthecrest of Byzantine elements,isbestknownforthe Romanandcomplex withNabataean, va Ntoa Park National Avdat A great istheBritish-run placetostay En Avedat NationalPark tothebizarrely spring, chilly desert 08 /pop6000 . The starting pointforthe2½-hour . Thestarting , perched on the crater rim,hasa isHebrew for‘watchtower’, andac- h

( Maktesh Ramon Ramon Maktesh x 8am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) 052 712304; [email protected]; 052 712304;[email protected]; ﺮZﻤﻮن THE NEGEV ••Dimona THE NEGEV , which provides excellent

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visitors centre ( 8am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am- x 655 1511;adult/child 655 5684;adult/child where day- caravanserai Wilderness of , aruins

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES .com; 27 Har Boker St) .com; 27HarBoker bikes (US$25perday). bike repair shopandwillhire outmountain (US$14fortwodescents).Ithasa abseiling fering crater tours (US$25perperson) and continental breakfast.continental have agreat includea crater view.Rates walk fromthevisitors centre. Mostrooms /peter.html; Ramon) POBox327Mitzpe can camelids(iellamasandalpacas). spin woolandkeep avarietyof SouthAmeri- the kitchen facilities. English andHebrew. Guests have accessto French-Algerian owner, whospeaksFrench, the friendliestplace intown,thankstothe .alpaca.co.il; adult/child25/23NIS; dm/s/d 100/195/280NIS) Thu) Sun-Thu, 9am-5pmSat) 9am-4pmFri, Mitzpe Ramon HIHostel Ramon Mitzpe Sleeping trips costUS$350foragroupof seven. Overnight man, EnglishandSwiss-German. fit runbyafellow whospeaks Dutch, Ger- geology It’sasophisticated andbotany. out- ellers whoare interested culture, indesert St) .il; 6Gvanim the visitors centre forthelatest offerings. tomuster agroup;see and youmayneed wind but theycomeandgowiththedesert Lots of tours, companiesrunrugged jeep Tours Ramon Downhill fromthevisitors centre, the Sights 332 East ofEast town,the plays acollectionof floraandfauna. desert though short on creaturethough comforts, thepoint you’re intrigued by anysort of mysticism. Al- if on apoor track,thisisthe placetostay for800NIS. goes uponreturn and sauna tothehomebase, while anovernight trip,includingcookout hour tripwithbreakfast for350NIS goes gies forexcursions athree- intotheNegev; haronim St;rperperson US$12) Thu 240/400NIS, Fri 450/550NIS) Thu 240/400NIS, Fri s/d Sat- Ramon; POBox272,Mitzpe 6280; www.succah.co.il; Peter Bugel Tours Peter Chez Alexis Succah intheDesert Succah Guide Horizon Negevland Tours Negevland isalabourof love foritsowners, who THE NEGEV ••Eilat THENEGEV

( x 658 8755;adult/child12/6NIS; isanadventure companyof-

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x ( x 659 5333;www.guidehorizon

659 5555;www.negevland.co ( x (Succah HaMidbar; HaMidbar; (Succah 658 8958;www.shunra.net Set 7km from town 7kmfrom town Set Thisisprobably h 658 8443;fax8074;

( 8.30am-4.30pm Sat- caters fortrav- complexdis- x 658 8047;www h 9am-6pm x Bio- 658 meats and cheeseless pasta dishes. pasta meats andcheeseless ingrilled entrance tothetown,specialises ated nexttothebusstopatnorthern and anyone else searching for the Red Sea’s for theRed Sea’s searching and anyone else canyons. Divers, snorkellers, sunbathers and mountains in itssurrounding desert and for most visitors Eilat’s real appeal is andclutteredminished bycoarse beaches ofsearch sin. from Indiaandweekend holidaymakers in trinketswith tie-dyedbeach bumsselling in the1950stobuild thecity–nowmix hereIts foundingfathers –convictssent tomed boatsply deteriorating coralreefs. line anartificiallagoonandglass-bot- sort townwhere glitzy,ziggurat-like hotels headlines by200kmof Eilatisare- desert, fromtheIsraelofseparated international Wedged JordanandEgypt, between and x EILAT Boker andEinAvdat. (26NIS,onehour),via Sde from Be’ersheva 9.30pm, busNo60shuttleshourly toand Friday busdepartsat9.10am.From 6amto 10.25am, 1.10pmand4.45pm.The lone els toEilat(42NIS,2½hours) at 8.55am, From SundaytoThursday busNo392trav- &Away There Getting the towncentre. Neto andSupersol supermarkets, bothin all day,whilethepuboperates untillate. meals businesslunches andset rel) serves Located atthevisitors centre, HaHavit (Bar- Pangea Eating camp sites/Bedouintentbedsperperson25/40NIS) you of free transportfromMitzpeRamon. vance bookings,which are willavail essential, live withoutmodernplumbing,forget it.Ad- soifyou can’t is integration withthedesert; h are available for30NISbutcallahead. then 5kmdownabumpyaccessroad.Meals toEilat,and onthehighway Mitzpe Ramon a modernshowerblock.It’s12kmsouthof cuisine,cleanbathroomsand tents, Bedouin with local is campinginadramaticsetting, HaHavit The Miami-style sceneissomewhatdi- willfindjoyattheHyper Self-caterers Be’erot Camping 08 /pop50,000 8am-midnight)

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( x 653 9222;5OdedSt;dishes35-40NIS; 658 8226;dishes28-45NIS; Thiskosherrestaurant, situ-

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Eilat www.lonelyplanet.com the Egyptian border. The massive Jordanian thetown centre strip between coastal and fringed lagoon andbeaches, and the5km Eilat consists of atown centre, thehotel- Orientation posthaste fortheEgyptian Sinai. magical underwater world shouldhead (70km) Red Canyon(25km); Ein Netafim(11km); To HaYoash(10km);

4 1 3 2 5 EILAT Ha'Ef

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SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION oin otl...... B3 C3 Corinne Hostel...... Beit Ha’Arava...... A3 Park...... A3 Underwater ObservatoryMarine D5 Snuba...... B5 Red SeaSportsClub...... D5 Kisuski...... A1 Israel Yam...... B4 Dolphin Reef...... A2 Desert EcoTours...... A2 Coral BeachNatureReserve...... D4 Camel Ranch...... A2 Bowling BarClub...... Aqua SportDiving...... B5 C5 UK Consulate...... D5 Tourist Police...... Tourist InformationOffice...... B4 C3 Post Office...... Police Station...... New TouristCentre...... (see38) B4 B4 Ministry oftheInterior...... E-Surf...... A4 Egyptian Consulate...... Capish...... (see 38)

Blvd HaTemarim i B 21 ὈὈ ὈὈ To KibelArpartment

Ofarim La 3 Central Park Almogin St 23 Hativat Mizrayim Rd 2 (450m) 40 38 26 24 Car Park

36 HaNegev 5 16 31 Red Rock Centre Town 41 39 Red KanyonMall Beach Mall centre. ATMs are widespread. commission change bureaus inthe town To change money, headforthe manyno- Information mansion. KingHussein’s see town of days it’spossibleto Aqaba;onclear marksthe flag downthecoast totheeast

Ave 20 Shalom Centre 34

4 Hativat Golani Municipal Ha'Arava Rd Ὀ Airport Ave 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Airport Runway Gulf ofEilat 33

North Beach Tarshish

Durban St C4 B4 Israir...... B4 Bus Station...... Arkia...... TRANSPORT B5 Unplugged Bar...... (see38) D5 Underground Pub...... B5 Platinum...... IMAX Theatre...... ENTERTAINMENT D5 C5 Three MonkeysPub...... C5 Papaya Beach...... Green Beach...... DRINKING D5 Wang’s Grill...... B5 Spring Onion...... (see6) D5 Red SeaStar...... D4 ...... B3 Pago Pago...... Co-op Supermarket...... EATING A4 B3 Villa Kibel...... A2 Spring Hostel...... B3 SPNI FieldSchool...... B3 Nathan’s WhiteHouse...... D4 Hotel Pierre...... Hotel AmericanaEilat...... Wildlife Reserve(35km); Park Yotvata Kibbutz(40km); Hai-Bar AravaBiblical National Park(25km); Jerusalem (307km) Border Crossing (3km); Timna To Rabin THE NEGEV ••Eilat THE NEGEV 7 Crowne 400m 0.2miles 0 0 Lagoon Hotel Plaza 17 6 15 10 29 Marina

37 Royal 22 South Beach Rd 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22

D Promenade 32 Amusement 35 Kings City Park

30 333

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Sport House, Yacht Marina; .il; SouthernBeach;adult/child42/28NIS; Beach. at North InformationOffice Thu-Sat) ThisstationisneartheTourist 3666; www.redseasports.co.il; Bridge House) Bridge 3666; www.redseasports.co.il; The Sights &Activities police Tourist InformationOffice Tourist Post office Police station Internet café. h E-Surf Capish 334 ( Yacht adult/child60/40NIS) Marina; and thefree with underwater trailsmarked bybuoys, options are the water activities. For snorkelling, yourbest forunder-but isn’tespeciallyappealing Beach North ates atleastthree timesdaily. danian borders. Itlaststwohours and oper- theEgyptian between andJor-boat cruise, 79/69NIS; 4200; www.coralworld.com/eilat;Taba Rd;adult/child area isthe species youmayhave onthereef. missed cent aquariumdisplaysmanyof thetropical snorkelling withoutgetting wet.Theadja- in underwater viewingcentre –it’slike isthemagicalglassed- years!). Thehighlight hawksbill turtles(which live for150to200 withsharksandrareride, tanks green and features the‘Oceanarium’mocksubmarine dive, or €315for afive-day PADI certifica- All charge around €41for anintroductory other operators: from 1400NIS. Diving certification courses are available adult/child, guideddive 223NIS)withthem. dive (introductory dive 274/246NISper snorkel (227/204NISperadult/child) or phin training,feed the dolphins andeven on theTaba dol- road,visitors canobserve Hativat HaNegev Ave.Hativat HaNegev Internet isavailableatthiscoffee shop. x At The crowdedandcluttered hotel area at A popularexcursion fromthemain hotel You canalsodive with one of Eilat’s 9am-11pm Sun-Thu, 4-11pmSat) 9am-4pmFri, THE NEGEV ••Eilat THENEGEV 637 2722;www.snuba.co.il; CavesReef) Underwater Observatory Marine Park Marine Observatory Underwater

( Dolphin Reef ( ( x x x h (Red Kanyon Mall; Mall; Kanyon (Red 633 4404; www.aqua-sport.com; CoralBeach) 633 4404;www.aqua-sport.com; 634 4331;centralbusstation;perhr15NIS; 632 5977; New Tourist Centre; 632 5977;NewTourist isgreat foradrinkinthesun, 8.30am-4pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-3.30pmFri) Israel Yam ( ( HaDekel (Palm) Beach HaDekel h x h 10am-3am Sun-Wed,10-6am 100) Locatedattheeasternendof

Coral Beach Nature Reserve Coral BeachNature ( Red Sea Sports Club Sports Sea Red x 8am-4pm Sun-Thu)

637 1846;www.dolphinreef.co ( x ( h x 637 5528,0505310090; 8am-4pm Sun-Thu) glass-bottomed 630 9111; Bridge 630 9111;Bridge h . h ; or 9am-5pm) 24hr) ;

( ( x x Snuba Aqua 633 636 , . ,

2am Sat) s/d 100/120NIS) Zofit Centre) St,POBox4113, ZofitCentre, Neviot .desertecotours.com; s/d 40/70/120NIS; cilities are available. The small poolon the andkitchen fa- season in thehigh is served suites thatcome withkitchenette. Breakfast clean doubles andhandy littletworoom facilities and cable TV are available. facilities andcable TV hadjustarrivedif Santa inEilat.Kitchen topped withwoodenreindeer cut-outs, as small woodcabinsouttheback, each and dormroomsinthemainblock and hostel, anatmosphericplacewithdouble Camping isn’tpermitted onmostbeaches.Camping BUDGET place altogether atpeakholidaytimes. or you’llbeoutonthestreet, oravoid the ahead months of JuneandAugust.Reserve ends, and25%to50%(ormore) in the byabout25%ormoreEilat rise onweek- As aresort town,thecostof hotel roomsin Sleeping day (plusanybordertaxes). camping, planonUS$40/100forahalf/full Sinai andsouthwestern Jordan.Ifyou’re camelandhikingtours jeep, intheNegev, the reputable A reputable choice forwildernesstours is Tours ( RockBeach) Red .kisos.co.il; 10 minutes). With (120NIS for for 15minutes) andparasailing Sports Cluborganises water-skiing (120NIS 45NIS to55NISperhour,andRedSea around €23perday. tion. Youcanrent divingequipmentfor bathrooms. has air-con dormswithfridges andattached bowl afew framesatthe tubes andotherwater toys. pedalboats, kayaks,ski jet boats,parasails, Hotel. nais Lane;dm/s/d/ste40/120/150/200NIS; .il; 126Ofarim x Nathan’s White House Nathan’s White Corinne Hostel Corinne placesalsorent These sailboards for Spring Hostel Spring After sunset, youcouldgetAfter drunkand sunset, 631 6797; Eilat Marina; 631 6797;EilatMarina; located behindtheCrownePlaza , which does half-day tomulti-day half-day , which does Thisplaceisquite basic, but ) Thissmall hotel hasvery Desert EcoTours Desert na

( ( x x 637 1472; 127 Retamim St;dm/ 637 1472;127Retamim 637 4660;www.avivhostels.co Kisuski ) , youcanrent jetskis, ThisisEilat’soldest

h ( www.lonelyplanet.com x 3pm-2am Sun-Fri, 6pm- 3pm-2am Sun-Fri,

637 6572; Retamim St; 637 6572;Retamim (

Bowling BarClub x ( x 637 2088;www 637 4259;www

65NIS; all have fridges, phonesandcableTV. French. Thesmall-but-comfortable rooms place isfriendly,quiet,unassumingandvery 18Peres.villakibel.co.il; St;flats160NIS; s/d/tr 40/100/120/150NIS; 109NIS; Sat) style Cave Bar. Breakfast isincluded. large swimmingpoolandtheFlintstone- Amenitiesinclude tennis courts,a Beach. a five-minute walkfromtheheart of North got awell-placedlocationnearthe marina, thepartycrowd,butit’s best placetomeet thisplaceis notthe Israeli blue-collarset, ostrich andduck grills. ters chicken, (from78NIS), andfish,beef, plat- sushi combos(from 49NIS),seafood watery surroundings. It’sbestknownfor dinner orgrilledspecialityinnice seafood this istheplace to goforanatmospheric pick youupatthebusstation. If youhave alotof theownerwill luggage, up, sobookingsare recommended. highly 13-bed for760NIS.Ittends tofill house TV. management alsooffers Thesame a holiday flatswithkitchenettes andcable divided intoacollectionof comfortable This isafriendlyandquietprivate home Kibel Villa MIDRANGE places inthisrange. floorisararesecond commodityamong www.lonelyplanet.com 100NIS; pizza,and fishdishes. salads, breakfast (38NIS),you’llfindfruitshakes, the hotel area. Inadditiontoagreat Israeli vegetarian placebesidethelagoon bridge in Onion Spring Eating &Drinking additional 12NISto20NIS. patiogarden.Breakfastpleasant costsan 27 rooms,awell-litcommonroomand Ha’Aravain thisarea, theBeit consistsof others amongseveral best valueguesthouse ered bymanytravellers thecleanestand nahotel.co.il; Kaman Rd;s/d 200/250NIS) Kaman nahotel.co.il; /pierre; 123 Ofarim Lane;s/dUS$50/80; /pierre; 123Ofarim Hotel Americana Eilat Americana Hotel Red Sea Star Sea Red Hotel Pierre Hotel Beit Ha’Arava Pago Pago This isthe place to go forunderwater h h h 9am-3am) 1pm-midnight)

6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, & noon-midnight Fri ( x

( ( x

/fax 6376911; x (

( x x ( Thisisapopulardairyand x 637 7434; Bridge House;dishes45- 637 7434;Bridge 633 6660; Eilat Marina; dishes45- 633 6660;EilatMarina; 634 7777; Mizrayim Rd;dishes64- 634 7777;Mizrayim 632 6601;www.eilat-guide.com 637 4687;106AlmoginSt;dm/ On a boat in the marina, Onaboatinthemarina, pnai

( x x 633 3777;www.america 050 5345366;www pna Attractingthe pna ) Consid- ) This )

North Beach) North all youcaneat110NIS; 45-95NIS; 100NIS; entertainment. live easymusicandnightly grub andbeer, is thetravellers favourite, withcheap pub Beach) routines. songanddance by periodicCarnival-style in achic restaurant-bar combo,enlivened 12kindsof salads meatandseven serves pop open.ThisBrazilian-stylerestaurant greasy untilyourshirtbuttons grilledmeat empty gutandalotof cashandgorge on with adance-bar atmosphere. Pub, this placeattracts a younger crowd Blvd) quently changing options. This compactlittlearea ispacked withfre- ontheNewTourist Centre.action focuses Eilat’s nightlife isfirmlybar-based, andthe Entertainment there’s adancebarontheupstairs deck. thewindows.Inevening, you through your fishdinnerwhileaccusingeyesglare at dining –thatis,ifyoudon’tmindeating Jerusalem. cooking lawapproved bytherabbinate of noodlebarandstrictJewish Chinese house, it workshere, combiningaJapanese steak- soundabitoutofmight theordinary,but try the given Eilat’sappetite-busting temperatures – – and itprobablywillbe issufficient sandwich as welltheFoodCourtinsideMall. Ifa oppositeTourist Centre, theIMAXtheatre, canbefoundintheNew shwarma stands ground-pub.com; New Tourist Centre; ground-pub.com; NewTourist does a plying trade in fruity cocktails. aplying tradeinfruitycocktails. does mended watering holeonthepromenade between them.Try between people,but there’slat’s beautiful notmuch bods partyinguntilsunrise. Hotel, RoyalPromenade; h Three Monkeys Pub Monkeys Three Unplugged Wang’s Grill Platinum Underground Pub Underground Papagaio A numberof small restaurants, cafésand The beach bars are fashionablewithEi- 7pm-3am) , ortheoneinShalom Centre. and think DJs and tanned, bikini-clad andthinkDJstanned, h Co-op supermarket Co-op h 11pm-6am) and

7-11pm Sat-Thu) Nextdoor totheUnderground ( ( x x

( ( x x Papaya Beach 633 2217;DanHotel,RoyalPromenade; 636 3444; Antibes Rd;admission 60- 636 8989;RoyalPromenade;dishes Located in KingSolomon 632 6299; New Tourist Centre;632 6299;NewTourist h THE NEGEV ••Eilat THE NEGEV h

Green Beach Green

( noon-midnight) x ( 9pm-late) x ‘KosherAsian food’

(cnr ElotAve &HaTemarim 637 0239;www.under 636 8888;RoyalBeach

h ( x Thisrecom- noon-4am)

634 0804; North 634 0804;North ( x Bringan 637 7032;

This

335

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES Arkia per week (US$87). per week Tel Aviv (US$72),andtoHaifa three times themunicipalairportanddaily between have toget(25NIS). ataxi bordercrossing intoJordan,you’ll Rabin and 9amto7pm Saturday.Toreach the Sunday toThursday, 8amto3pmFriday der atTaba (6.40NIS) from8amto6pm withthe Egyptiancentral busstation bor- road. ThehourlybusNo15connects the forlocationsalongtheTabaa busortaxi The towncentre iswalkable,butyou’llneed Around Getting The BUS ( Step outsideof Eilat’s AIR &Away There Getting theatre IMAX take coolrespite inthe pyramid-shaped the temperatures reach unbearableheights, a gayparty. 25-and-overs, andonFriday theclubhosts brew for music only,Thursday isreserved most populardiscointown.MondayisHe- hotel, thiswas,atthetimeof writing,the 336 Field School inEilat. Any of the following ing map (82NIS), which is sold atthe SPNI of the 1:50,000SPNI butbesureMountains, to pickupacopy Hikers will want AROUND EILATto headfortheEilat 3553) midnight Sat) mission 55NIS; Saturday (4.30pm and 9.30pm). Saturday (4.30pmand9.30pm). and 4.30pm),Friday(7am,10am 1pm) Sunday toThursday (7am,10am,1.30pm Jerusalem (65NIS,4½hours), there are buses twiceonSaturday.To andatleast weekdays runmorehours), buses orlesshourlyon (45NIS,2½ three hours). ToMitzpeRamon (55NIS, this busalsostopsinBe’ersheva 3pm andthefirst Saturdaybusat 11.30am; at1am.ThelastFridaybusis service 5am to7pm,withanadditionalovernight 1½hours departingevery from with buses toTeloffers service Aviv (65NIS,five hours) x For amore family-friendly activity,orif THE NEGEV ••AroundEilat THENEGEV 634 0666;ShalomCentre) andyouare already downtown.Both central busstation

( x 638 4888; Red Kanyon Mall) Kanyon 638 4888;Red . h

( x 4-11pm Sun-Thu, 9pm- 11am-5pmFri, 634 8080;www.imaxeilat.co.il; ad-

Eilat Mountains ( municipal airport x fly several times flyseveral 636 5120;HaTemarim St) and

( x hik- Israir 637

www.timna-park.co.il; adult/child 38/33NIS) www.timna-park.co.il; person 25NIS) the Natural Arch phenomena. Themost intriguingare the also includesawonderland of geological is dotted withancient mine shafts–butit Egyptian miners –thepark 5th-century-BC It’s bestknown as asourceof copper for vened withmulticoloured rockformations. of landscapes,enli- somestunningdesert by publicbus, About 25kmnorthof Eilatandaccessible Timna NationalPark ( ride fromEilat. places isaccessibleona38NISto50NIStaxi that 2kminlandfromtheEilat–Taba road. per person) cameltreks less fromitsbase, (98NIS perperson) andfour-hour (180NIS Shlomo; water perperson. andcarryatleast3Lof start anearly Get of adherents atopone of itsuppercrests. of thisroute, lecturingtoasmallcollection walked part the early1990sDalaiLama from HaYoash totheEgyptian border. In Gishron thespectacular will take youthrough there’s anofficial campsite (nowater). also alongtheIsraelNationalTrail,where liethe impressiveCanyon at thefinish.Nearmouthof Shehoret tour operatortopickyouupatthetrailhead yon tional Trailtothespectacular From here, hikers canfollowtheIsraelNa- water, themainroad. lielessthan1kmoff which attractwildlife withtheirperennial landscapes. hikes oneof through Israel’s wildestdesert Pillars Ranch under analternative formof transport, makes agreat shorthike. 1.5km walkingtrackfromthecarpark.It onfootviaa isreadily20m deep, accessed a slotcanyon1mto3mwideand10m h The smallspringand30m Further north,the600m-long dayhikeAn excellentsix-toseven-hour Overnight Overnight If you’dprefer totake to the mountains , 15kmaway;make arrangements witha running Apr, May, Oct &Nov) Oct running Apr,May, Mushroom

. There isalso a range of excellent day h (partof theIsraelNationalTrail) ( x 9am-1pm &4-8pm) isavailable atthe artificial 637 0022; www.camel-ranch.co.il; Nakhal 637 0022;www.camel-ranch.co.il; Nakhal , theerodedmonolith knownas andthephotogenic accommodation Timna NationalPark ﺣﺪﻳﻘﻪ _ﻤﻨﻪ פארק_ﻨ ﺪﻘ organises 90-minute www.lonelyplanet.com at Ein Netafim, atEinNetafim,

(Bedouin tentsper Amram Pillars Shehoret Can- Shehoret

( Red Canyon Red isthesite x Solomon’s waterfall waterfall 631 6756; Nakhal Nakhal

Timna Camel Camel תמנע , ,

really tohire makes acar. sense thing of interest. Thisisone placewhere it trance. Fromthere, it’salongwalktoany- the parkturn-off,2.5kmfromen- office isthe Justbehindthe tickettheir ‘naturalstate’. theanimalsin from where youcanobserve tonavigateis needed itsgravelled roads, of threatened wildlife. Negev Aprivate car caféteria at Arava. Around5kmnorthof here, the block andtoiletsare available atHai-Bar and fresh dairyproducts. son 23NIS) Arava BiblicalWildlifeReserve Located 35kmnorthof Eilat,the Reserve Hai-Bar AravaBiblicalWildlife jacent call aheadtothepark.Formeals,tryad- Lake www.lonelyplanet.com waned withthe political tide. The 1993 has waxedtheir surrounding roads, and monitor the movement of Palestinians. blocks builtaround themto walls and road withhundredstight, of checkpoints, fences, around bothterritories isextraordinarily autonomy.Security nor granted outright JerusalemEast andtheGolan Heights), have neither annexed been byIsrael(aswere by Israelin1967 duringtheSixDayWar, dominantly Palestinian territories captured andthe The WestBank Gaza Strip,pre- STRIP GAZA THE WESTBANK& [email protected]) Centre is40NIS. Centre andthePredator both theWildlife Reserve demic totheNegev. A combinedticket for person 23NIS; Sat) Buses between EilatandJerusalem between Buses pass IDF control over Palestinian cities,and Camp sites Camp wascreated breeding toestablish groups . Camping issometimespossiblebut . Camping restaurant , amodestzoohousinganimalsen- הגדה h Yotvata Kibbutz Yotvata Predator Centre Predator

8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, & 8.30am-4pmFri ש (per person20NIS)

(dishes 30-45NIS; ’’ & יו , offers simplemeals ﻏﺰة ( עזה המערבית

( ( x x

withshower ( & x בר h 637 3057;perper- 635 7449;yotvata

רצועת - 637 3057;per 9am-5pm) חי שמורת חי أﺿﻔﺔ Hai-Bar . )

.com; Jerusalem Hotel) .com; Jerusalem palestine.com) pulled backfromthelatter two. Tulkarem. Atthetimeof writingithadonly Jericho Qalqiyla,Bethlehem, and Ramallah, to pullbackfromfive towns– WestBank 2005 ceasefire agreement, Israelpromised areas intifada. Underthe during thesecond buttheIDFtookbackmosturban Bank, ruleintheGazaStripandWest ited self PalestiniansOslo Accordsbrought lim- low-cost housing. which were demolishedtomake wayfor industryand1500 homes, a yearhothouse proper. TheyleftbehindaUS$200million in GushKatif andforcedtorelocate inIsrael wereraeli settlers pulledoutof theirhomes curred inAugust2005whensome9000 Is- weapons, drugsand people. ofconnect toEgypt, allowingthetrafficking largely of because thesecret tunnelsthat isahotbedof violence own cabinet.Rafah and astrongrebuke frominsideSharon’s tion thatprompted international outrage destroyed andaswatheof urbandestruc- left42dead,180homessiege onRafah nary Palestinians. InMay 2004,asix-day ties committed bytheIDFagainstordi- scene of someof themostappalling atroci- tive Tours tive onyour own, West Bank Arab hotels. snazzy group. Another excellent resource is the US$25 per person –ifyou canmuster a to thePalestinian Territories foraround The biggest planyetoc- disengagement The IDF pullout includes Rafah, the The IDFpulloutincludesRafah, If youfeel uneasyabouttravelling tothe tioned inthissection. news –before visitinganyoftheareas men- abreastadvice –andkeep ofthelatest to getthroughthecheckpoints. Seeklocal Alwayscarryaforeignyarmulke). passport wear anyoutwardsignsofJudaism(eg a demonstrations whentheyoccuranddon’t ing (forthebetter orworse).Avoid public could changerapidlyandwithoutwarn- the situationinPalestinian territories between IsraelandthePA inearly2005, Despite the relative calming intensions WARNING This WeekInPalestine This

(Map pp284-5; (Map THE WESTBANK&GAZASTRIP brochure, available in upmarket organises customtours x 052 2864205;www.jrshotel Abu HassanAlterna- (www.thisweekin

337

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES view Nablus, themain reason tocome here isto Apart from catching onward transportto towns. that’s lacking inotherWest Bank the feel of prosperity andyouthful energy have the citydoes and malls.However, torn downtomake wayformodern shops much ofof ithaving oldRamallah, been West Bank. and thecentre forculture and artsinthe headquarters forthePalestinian Authority is nowbetter knownastheadministrative a resort Arabs,Ramallah townforwealthy Once aChristianreligious centre and later x RAMALLAH 338 The West Bank Herzliya 35 Shemesh Caesarea THE WESTBANK Netanya 5 40 There islittlelefttoremind thevisitor Bet 02 /pop40,000 Ben-Gurion 25 THEWESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••Ramallah Khadera Airport 38 Efar Etzion 44 Yasser Arafat’s tomb To Haifa Reserve (16km) Sorek Nahal Qalqiyla Zichron Ya'acov Halhoul Hebron 3 Tulkarem 1 THE NEGEV 65 JERUSALEM Shomron Beit Jalla Yatta Shavei- Solomon's 80 55 Pool's 443 Ramallah 57 Umm el- Mt Gerizim Shu'fat Fahm Al-Bireh W EST J udeanDsrt Arad (881m) Kiryat Arba Megiddo Bethlehem 66 Light Show Sinjil Herodion Sound-&- 60 Jerusalem 60 Mt Ebal Rachel's Tomb (940m) Beit Sahur Sebastiya Airport Atarot Jenin Beit El

(185km) To Eilat (admission free; Nablus B ANK Masada Ein Gedi 12miles 20km 0 0 Zﷲ 1 Monastery Mar Saba 449 Border Crossing

Border Crossing Hussein Bridge رZم רמאללה Z Allenby/King Jericho Jordan River Zohar Neve 90 Tubas Beit She'an D eadS To Tiberias 57 90 (13km) Ein Feshk Nebi Musa 90 71 Qumran Reserve 449 h

Amman Jordan

(40km) River 8am- J O R D A N A D R O J 90 To a 6pm Mon-Sat) adult/child40/30NIS; www.jericho-cablecar.com; century synagogue and winds tothe ruinsofthe road a 5th- or6th- posted trenches andmounds of dirt. which haslittlemoreas-Sultan, than sign- Ramallah for2.50NIS. Ramallah frequent checkpoint. Fromthecheckpost,Calandia Jerusalemin East (Map pp284–5 ) tothe 78 fromtheNablusRoadoldbusstation accessisfromthesouthside.900m east, is Arafat’scompound (Muqata) Ramallah; clearly visible). the Palestinian Authority(bulletholesstill of thepartiallydestroyedheadquarters of 10/7NIS; or take the1.3km-long YoucouldwalkthereSatan. in30minutes traditional site where Jesus wastempted by century, which clingstotherocksat Orthodox monastery, rebuilt inthe19th ofTemptationastery the first site of interest isthe St.HeadingSultan northoutof thecentre, formed byQasrHishamStand Einas- loop onthe6kmanticlockwise cessed Ancient Jericho’s mainsites are bestac- Ancient Jericho Moab. tothemysterious of Mountains Dead Sea landscapesandtheviewsacross the desert are readily bythesurrounding surpassed archaeological sites remain impressive, they lowest townintheworld.WhileJericho’s it’salsothe level world. At260mbelowsea claims thetitleof theoldesttownin little remains of thislegacy,butJericho still tumbling walls.Unfortunately, precious with itstrumpetsandthesubsequently count of circuits , his army’sseven Jericho isbestknownforthebiblicalac- x JERICHO 9pm) the archaeological site of souvenir shopsandrestaurants, stalls, and the Ahava Temptation touristcomplex with level’. ‘world’s longest cable carundersea Around 3km pastthetourist complex, To get to Ramallah, take ArabbusNo To get toRamallah, Duar al-Manara Sqmarksthecentre of Across thestreet from thecablecaris 02 /pop32,000 , which islocated insidethecompound h sheruts (servees) 8am-5pm) , triumphantly advertised asthe , triumphantlyadvertised , otherwise known as Tel, otherwise , a12th-centuryGreek www.lonelyplanet.com Hisham’s Palace Hisham’s cable car Tel Yericho runtocentral Zﺮﻴﺤﺎ יריחו ﺮﺤ Mount &Mon-

( x

(adult/child 232 1590; h

(adult/ 9am- interconti.com; s/dUS$80/90; Sultan St;r100NIS) 250/320NIS; tion touristcomplex,opposite thecablecar. sit-down restaurant attheAhava Tempta- joints aroundthemainsquare, andaproper private bathroomsanddodgyplumbing. Shabbyetation. roomswiththree bedshave that floorboardshave tosproutveg- started a dramaticbackdrop. as tomb of with the JudeanDesert Moses, in 1269andrevered byMuslims asthe Village Resort Jericho Sleeping &Eating child 10/7NIS; www.lonelyplanet.com to About 8kmbefore Jericho right aroadleads AROUND JERICHO and taxis Jericho. service At present, nobuses Shared &Away There Getting downtown. a20-minutethe busstation, walkeastof the Allenbybordercrossingfor10NIS from will cost50NIS.There are to/from buses eastern suburbof Jerusalem. Aprivate taxi a beautiful Byzantine mosaic floor.a beautifulByzantinemosaic of a7th-centuryhuntinglodge, replete with ing Jesus (Luke 19:1–10). eus climbedforabetter viewof thepreach- Tree the roadtoJerusalem. prevails. It’slocated southeastof Jericho on newed hopesforabusinessboomifpeace thelastintifada,buttherethrough are re- itscasinoand limpedoperation closed place forafive-star hotel, this180-room Temptation cablecar. danian tourists.It’s2kmpasttheMountof run operation,cateringJor- forwell-heeled Jerusalem–Jericho road (get the busdriver onthe ing point isthe Wadi Qeltturn-off The hike takes aboutfourhours. Thestart- of acanyon ontheMount of Temptation. Monastery St George’s a waterfall andhike alonganaqueductto spring where youcan swim inapoolunder There are afew cafésandfelafel/shwarma Wd Qelt Wadi Back intown,lookoutforthe Back Hisham’s Palace Hotel Hisham’s Intercontinental Hotel Intercontinental Nebi Musa , said tobethevery thatZaccha- , said same pnas sheruts h is a nature reserve withanatural isanature reserve , asmallmonastic complexbuilt 8am-5pm) Thisplaceissoneglected departfromAbu-Dis, an

, built into the cliff face , builtinto thecliff ( x –theimpressive ruins pnas )

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( 232 1255;fax2189;s/d x ( x 052 2756990;Einas- 231 1200;jericho@ Zacchaeus ) Anodd THE WEST BANK & GAZA STRIP •• Around Jericho THE WESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••AroundJericho from the IDF. Palestinian there sanctuary troopssought In April2002it suffered damage as 200 cave cited by tradition asJesus’ birthplace. churches, isbuiltlike over acitadel the is oneof theworld’soldest functioning The venerable Sights office andvariousshops.The post office the Church of the Nativity, policestation, Around Manger inthecentre, Sq,right are &Information Orientation plative distance. and gazebackatthetownfromacontem- the morning,before thetourgroupsarrive, head outtotheShepherds’ Fieldsearlyin surfaces here. Ifit’salltoomuch foryou, ism andtheunheavenly hostof kitsch that commercial- be disappointedbytheblatant hopingforaspiritualexperiencemay those but Bethlehem, probably stillwanttosee back totheintifada. visitors Christian will damaged inconflictsdating and otherwise much worse, even of bombed ithasbeen village cards,but portrayedonChristmas longer resembles thecosyMiddleEastern The ChristianArabtownof x BETHLEHEM transport backtoJerusalem. find inthetownoreasily tinue sightseeing point isJericho, fromwhere youcancon- here)to dropyouoff andthefinishing Monastery andtheHerodion. just outsidethetown,such astheMar Saba also someexcellentexcursions to places maps of thetown. road. you canwalktotheJerusalem–Hebron fence, tothesecurity from whereyou close brings thenewtown;iteventually through the eastsideof thesquare, isthemainstreet hotels. ThewindingManger St,running off the outdoormarket andmore shopsand northeast Paul tothemuseum, VIStleads past theMilkGrottoChapel;uphill tothe of theVirgin Mary. North of thesquare a shrine that commemorates thelactation Down Milk GrottoStis thepilgrimage sites, thereBesides are Milk GrottoStheadsofftothesoutheast, 02 /pop61,000

( x 276 6677; Manger Sq; 276 6677;Manger Church oftheNativity ﻟﺤﻢ Milk GrottoChapel Milk h

ﺑﻴﺖ לחם בית לחם ﺑﻴﺖ Bethlehem no Bethlehem 10am-4pm) , which tourist tourist has 339

,

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES a localNGO,the you canbuyhandmadecraftsproduced by tinian craftsandcostumes.Inthe giftshop site fromthecheckpost. reasons, Jewish pilgrims are ferried tothe (3.80NIS, 30minutes). Forsecurity station here direct fromtheJerusalem central bus Muslims. Every two hours abustravels but alsoconsidered and holy byChristians rity fence, is hem) checkpost, and400mpastthesecu- on Paul VISt,the 340 more sense to stay innearby Jerusalem. tostay more sense andit makes pecially atChristmas and Easter, islimited, es- Accommodation inBethlehem Sleeping &Eating 2589; admission8NIS; womenunion.org) closed Thuafternoon) Around 1kmsouthof theGilo(Bethle- (www.machsomwatch.org) details fromthePalestinian side,clickonwww.stopthewall.org. Alsocontact Americans, Europeans, IsraelisandtheArabworld. thatdeepensthedivideconfronting economic andmilitaryaidtoIsraelperyear;strongsupport refers acommonrallycryamonggraffitiartists, to America’sUS$2.5billioninIsrael Apartheid’, Israeli dominationofPalestinian West. withtheJudeo-Christian land,centralto Islam’sconflict Wall’.ForArabsworldwide,thisisthenewsymbolof the‘Apartheid tinians andpoliticalactivists, has seentheclosure of7280surroundingbusinessessincethebarrierwentupinJune2002. tomers andclients. Case Tomb( inpointisRachel’s below ), aholysite outsideBethlehem,which as peoplehave beenuprooted fromtheirhomesandroadblockshave halted tradebetweencus- US$3-billion pricetag. ghosttowns Neighbourhoods aroundthewallhave beenturnedintovirtual ians, claimingthewallviolated international law. territories. ofJustice intheHaguesidedwithPalestin- InJuly2004,theInternational Court armistice, isanIsraeliattempt tograblandbefore anofficialborderisestablishedbetweenthe ). The IDFclaimsan80% dropinthenumberofterror attackssinceitsconstruction. tocompare(leading supporters itnottothedivisive Berlinwallbutthedefensive Great Wall of tohaltthemovementsecurity project ofPalestinian weaponsmugglersandsuicidebombers home, caging himbetweenIsraelandPalestine. fences Palestinian encircles hisunfortunate actually the6mwallanditssupporting inElkana, farmers’ fields,towncentres andbetweenthehomesofonetimeneighbours. Inthecaseofone that dividesthem. noticeable feature isnolongerthechangeofcultures fromIsraelitoPalestinian, butthewall When crossinginto themost the WestBankfromJerusalem, eithertoBethlehemorRamallah, THEM A WALLBETWEEN THEWESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••Bethlehem For more informationon theWall,seeIDF-sponsored www.securityfence.mod.gov.il. For Locally, thissentimentisreflected onthewallitselfinformofgraffiti.‘AmericanMoney, Equally traumaticisthepoliticalfalloutcausedbySecurityFence, orasitsknownbyPales- The moundsandwatchtowers,iscostlybeyondits wall,alongwithitsfences, barricades,earth But Palestinians argue thatthewall,becauseitcutswellbeyond1949Green Line ofa704km This beganduringthesecondintifadaandispart vastbarricade’sconstruction A BerlinWallforthe21stcentury,this‘SecurityFence’, asitsknownbyIsraelis,cutsthrough . Rachel’s Tomb Rachel’s h exhibitstraditionalPales- Arab Women’sUnion Bethlehem Museum 10am-noon &2.30-5pmMon-Sat, , anNGOthatmonitorsIsraelicheckpoints. , revered byJews

(www.arab

( x 274 s/d US$30/45; ditional mealscostUS$5. ing room.Priceincludesbreakfast and ad- Nativity hasreasonable facilities andadin- besidetheChurch ofrun guesthouse the .org; s/dUS$25/50; George Restaurant George merchants aroundManger Sq,andthe road toJerusalem. a 20-minute walkfrom Manger Sqonthe rooms withascenicviewover thevalley, Bethlehem Bethlehem &Away There Getting chicken, fish andmeatdishes. 35-50NIS; tion, passing Jaffa Gate (they are often full Jerusalem’s Suleiman sta- from East Sultan Alexander Hotel Hospice Nova Casa You’ll findplenty of felafel and shwarma h 8am-11pm) pna sheruts nai

( ( (3NIS,40 minutes) run x x

, which serves upgrilled , which serves ( x ) Tastefully furnished 274 3780;Paul VISt;dishes 277 0780; [email protected]; 277 0780;[email protected]; www.lonelyplanet.com 274 2798;www.cnop-beth ) Machsom Watch ThisFranciscan- St shared taxi. here it’spossibletocontinue toHebron by 23 orArabminibusNo1toDashit. From takeget ArabbusNo there fromBethlehem, Solomon’s Pools cessible onArabbus60fromBethlehem). the 6kmfrombusstopatAbu Diye(ac- Without aprivate vehicle you’llhave towalk men, buttheexterior isalsoquite amazing. sive structures. Theinterior isopenonlyto mostimpres-banks, oneof the HolyLand’s Monastery of tion combinetomake theGreek Orthodox orwalk. bet istotake ataxi andyour best frequently fromBethlehem Sahur.lies 8kmsouthof Beit runin- Buses plex builtbyHerod 24and15BC, between volcano-shaped remains of thepalacecom- h The Sahur andwalkfor20minutes tothefields. take ArabbusNo47to Bethlehem, Beit a mosaic-floored cave. FromManger Stin there’s alsoa5th-centurychurch builtover destroyed bythePersians inAD614,and The ruinedByzantinemonastery here was Sahur(1kmeastof Bethlehem). from Beit the Various are biblicalevents associated with AROUND BETHLEHEM alltheway. attracts heavy traffic nately, the2½-hourup-and-downhill trek there’s procession).Unfortu- anofficial and walkfromJerusalem (atChristmas, (15NIS) thefinal3km. checkpost, fromwhere youcantake ataxi mascus Gate). Allvehicles stopattheGilo outsideFaisal’sstand (Da- Guesthouse minutes) sometimesleave from thetaxi up atJaffa Gate). Shared (5NIS,20 taxis topickonewhen leaving soit’sdifficult www.lonelyplanet.com other suggestion of Judaism. wearing ayarmulke, of Star David orany should strive tolooklike atourist –avoid Visitors to theoldcity and marketplace tension, when a ceasefire even isinplace. flict, Hebron of apalpablesense maintains A major flashpoint of theIsraeli-Arab con- x HEBRON The large reservoir andTurkishfortat The large reservoir Splendid architecture andasuperbloca- Alternatively, followthepilgrims’option 02 /pop120,000 8am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) Field ofRuth Herodion

lie 8km south of Beit Jalla. lie8kmsouthof Beit To Mar Saba Mar andthe ( x 776 2251;adult/child23/12NIS; , on the steep Kidron , onthesteepKidron Shepherds’ Fields , theamazing ﻫﺒﺮن חברוןﻫﺮ THE WESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••AroundBethlehem , 2km of Jerusalem’s Domeof theRock. intheregion onlytothat portance issecond reveredhighly site andtoMuslims,itsim- Mosque site of fatherAbraham, andthe of Machpelah Jewish istight. andsecurity sections, building isnowsegregated intoMuslimand opened fire ontheMuslimsatprayer. The a Jewish stepped intothemosqueand settler ian neighbours. Tragically,inFebruary 1994, fromtheirunhappyPalestin-the 500settlers The result wasanIDFguardposted toprotect flamed strong–andoften violent–passions. largely Arabtown,andtheirincursion in- lished acommunityonthefringes of this that produceHebron’s fabulousblue glass. Also, don’tmisstheEinSaraStfactories town, centred onavibrantoutdoormarket. commerce hasmoved totheadjoiningnew town.Mosting theplaceavirtualghost cleared outitsshopsandresidents, mak- row alleyways;butrepeated violencehas Mamluk façades,vaulted ceilings andnar- hotel complex of [email protected]; s/dUS$55/77; along NasirSt. south, theOld Town stretches eastward and asmall market. Immediately tothe ranks taxi find the bus stops,theservice the central Palestine/Al-Hussein Sq, you’ll tion of soap,olive wood andolive oil.In tion centre andisknown foritsproduc- peaks, isthelargest popula- WestBank andEbal the Gerizim situated between Arab townof Nablus,which isscenically The typicallybustlingandquite attractive x NABLUS of oldHebron. luxuryinscruffy with plush roomsandmodcons,isanisland Mosque. south liestheaforementioned Ibrahimi the northernedge of themarket. Tothe will dropyouonHaMelekh David St, at faster andmore frequent. Publictransport Gate (outsideFaisal’s are guesthouse) (12NIS)fromDamascus taxis but service andHebronsalem (10NIS),viaBethlehem, In theearly1970s,Jewish settlersestab- The mainstress pointisthedisputed Hebron’s souqisablendof and Crusader Located 3kmfromthebazaar,modern Arab bus No 23 operates between Jeru-Arab busNo23operates between 09 /pop260,000 , which overlays it.ForJews, it’sa , which isthepresumed burial Regency AlMezan Regency pnai ﻧﺎﺑﻠﺲ שכם ﺎﻠ

( x Ibrahimi Ibrahimi 225 7389; Cave 341

) ,

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES dm 30NIS) 100/150NIS; s/dwithoutair-con120/170NIS, 8am-10pm daily,womenonly8am-5pmTue) Crystal Hotel Sleeping &Eating minaret of Sqheadsouthtowardthe From Al-Hussein Sights 342 or from Calandia check point(16NIS, 1¼ or from Calandia (13NIS, one hour) St. in central Ramallah Sherut &Away There Getting pai s/dinclbreakfast US$75/85; OmarIbnal-Khatib; Sharia ish mansionknownas Nearby istheprivately ownedoldTurk- 30 minarets punctuatingtheNablus skyline. Nasir Stis entrance isuptheslopeonyourleft. Gate andthe Al-Beik walk souththrough architecture andgarden.FromNasirSt visitors willnormallybeabletoadmire the the OldCitybeside theAn-NasirMosque. in the West Bank withallthemod cons. in theWestBank home. It’saboutasluxuriousyoucanget workers often make thistheirtemporary speaking staff. a centrallocation,cleanroomsand English- reasonable optioninNablus,thisplacehas try thisdeliciousdelicacy is soaked inhoney).Thebestbakery atwhich to toppedwith orange wheatthreads (cheese andespecially Turkish delights, including Arabicpastries,halvah, sweets, sion offers basicdormitoryaccommodation. for20NIS. 10NIS andamassagegoes on anargileh. Abathcoststea andpuff guests canrecline, sipblackcoffee ormint enjoy thecushion-strewn centralhallwhere and alongwiththehotrooms,youcan period, Al-Shifa lovingly hasbeen restored, ofaround 1480atthestart theOttoman try’s oldestfunctioningTurkishbath.Built of theancientIsraelite kingdom. the impressive ruinsof Samaria,thecapital Just above itonthesummitof thepeaklie on thescenicslopesof theSamarianhills. about15kmnorthwestofstands Nablusup East ofEast theAn-NasirMosqueonAn- Al-Istiqlal Pension Al QasrHotel Along with soap, the Nablus speciality is Along withsoap, theNablusspecialityis The nearbyArabvillage of THE WEST BANK & GAZA STRIP •• THEWESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••Gaza taxis runtoNablusfrom Al-Nahda taxis Atthebottomof thescale,thispen- ) Visitingjournalistsandaid

Al-Shifa An-Nasir Mosque ( x 233 2485;Faisal St;s/dwithair-con ( x

( ( x x 238 5444;[email protected]; 238 3618; 11 Sharia Hitteen; Hitteen; 238 3618;11Sharia 09-838 1176; Touqan Castle

(Nasir St) Al-Aqsa , thecoun- h

pa (Nasir St) –oneof Sebastiya , where men only kunafa ) , in , in A

school. From the citadel, headwestandtakeschool. Fromthecitadel, Napoleon’s Citadel attractive Mamluk-era buildingnowcalled onAl-WahidaStinthe hisbase established Napoleon Bonaparte campedinGaza and seafood. mounds of overflowing fruit andtables with is aphotogenic menagerie of donkey carts, from here, acrossPalestine Sq, souq duringtheMamluk era. Ashortwalk Goldsmiths’ Alley its southernwallrunstheshort, vaulted church, structure istheconverted Crusader-era historical interest. Themostdistinguished Palestine Sqholdsmostof thecity’ssites of Sights &Activities isontherise. and Islamicfundamentalism groups militant intodisarming little effort ThePalestinianunstable. Authorityhasput inAugust2005,Gazaremainsraeli settlers intifada. during thesecond respectable uponceagain place,butclosed in1994,Gazabecamea of limited self-rule tradition lives on.After theestablishment than anyothertownintheworld–andthat capturedGaza hasbeen anddestroyed more sub-Saharan Africa. that Infact,it’sbelieved tral Asia andPersia withArabia,Egypt and post onthemajor traderoutes linkingCen- asastaging nean towns,andhaslongserved strategically eastern important Mediterra- oneofHistorically, Gazahasbeen themost x CITY GAZA blus (3NIS). where youcancatch a Huwwara check point outsideNablusfrom hours) Taxis justsouthof Ramallah. stopat In 1799,duringhisEgyptian campaign, Despite theceasefire andpulloutof allIs- www.mogaza.org. tion onGaza andamapof thecity,see a trusted informa- take guide. Forfurther and thearea opensup, exercise caution and dating thischapter. Ifthe situationchanges not visitthearea forthepurposesofup- from visitingGaza. Forthisreason, wedid At thetimeof research, touristswere barred WARNING 08 /pop469,000 Jama’a al-Akbar (Great Mosque) Jama’a al-Akbar(Great , which served asalively , which served , which iscurrently agirls’ sherut www.lonelyplanet.com tocentralNa- Fras Market ﻏﺰة . Along

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palnet.com; JamalAbdelNasserSt) Prophet Mohammed’s great-grandfather. Hashim toreach right the second the www.lonelyplanet.com An to the Middle East Dennis Ross.to the Middle have been givena multinational forceofobservers) athumbs-down bybothJews andArabs. displays thecomplexities ofsuchaplan. 10-minute strollthroughthe tightlyknitalleysoftheOldCity,and theproximity oftheseareas, Also toPalestine wouldgotheTemple MountwhiletheWestern Wallwouldremain withIsrael.A theArmenianandJewish quarters. whileIsraelwould take the MuslimandChristian quarters of Palestine andWestJerusalemthecapitalof Israel. As fortheOldCity,Palestine wouldcontrol resolution gobacktotheparameters oftheWyeIIdeal,East Jerusalemwillbecomethecapital are tobefoundnotinIsraelbutelsewheretrading partners intheArabworld. Jericho. wouldimprove oftheIDF,butPalestine’s Tradeopportunities withthedeparture likely in Bethlehem,theCave inHebronandtheMount&Monastery ofTemptation ofMachpelah in tain anumberofhistoricalsightsassociated withtheBible,including theChurchofNativity tourismwillcometothefore Certainly as thecountrywouldcon- is anotherbigquestionmark. obvious securitythreat forthecountry. coastal corridorbetweentheWestBank andNetanyawillbenarrowedtojust14km,posingan abroad decidetoreturn. Anestimated 400,000to800,000are expected todojustthat. cities couldbecomeeven of thefourmillionPalestinians more impacted ifa significant proportion thetwo. ofa securethe construction highwaylinking Already overcrowded GazaandWestBank separated from‘mainlandPalestine’ byaround50km ofIsraeliterritory whichwould probablyrequire the USstate ofMaryland),Palestine wouldhave littlelandtostandon.The Gazaenclave wouldbe prosperity andpeace–simplegeographybeingthemostobvious. Withjust6220sqkm(smallerthan tinian Authority dismantlingmilitantgroups. Littleprogress hasbeenmadeoneitheraccount. larly aroundEastJerusalemwhichthePalestinians theirfuture plantomake capital),andthePales- parameters intheWyeIIdealrejected byArafat. state forJewsandoneArabs. ofClinton’s Bothofhisamendmentswere, ofcourse,part inPalestine.they couldbere-settled The latter wouldcomplywiththetwo-state solution–one second announcedthatPalestinian refugees wouldnotbeallowedtoreturn toIsrael,butthat Israel wouldretain majorIsraelisettlementblocsinsidetheGreen Line(the1949Armistice).The target date USandPalestinian is2008,conspicuouslysetpriortothenext elections. with Israel,inpeace,by2005.The secondintifadacauseddelaysinimplementationandthenew George WBush,theRoadMapcalledforanindependentPalestinian state livingsideby which devisedthecurrent ‘RoadMapforPeace’. First outlinedinJune2002byUSpresident tion movements andborders. even acurrency linedup –thePalestinian Pound.More stickydiscussionsrevolve around popula- They have aflag,nationalfootballsquad,motto(MayGodProtect MyCountry)andthere’s reality. Buthowwouldafuture Palestinian state look?A few oftheessentialsare already there. Depending on yourlevel ofoptimism,IndependentPalestine iseitherapipedream oranear INDEPENDENT PALESTINE? For afirst-hand account ofthepeace negotiations,read Suggestions bymediatorsto internationalise Jerusalem (ieputtingitsauthority inthehands of For international negotiators,Jerusalem remains theelephantin room. Shouldafinal Palestine’s economy,crippledinrecent yearsbyhigh-level corruptionandIsraelioccupation, ofland areThese ofgrave smallportions concerntoIsraelaswell–the heavilypopulated If andwhenindependentPalestine isborn,numerouschallengeswillstandinthewayofsecurity, settlementbuildup(particu- Any progress forward,though,hingesonIsraelstoppingfurther revisionsIn April2004,Bushannouncedtwokey totheRoadMap.The firstdeclared that Helping withthecomplexitiesare ofgroups theEU,,UN,USA–‘quartet’ Arts and Craft Village andCraft Arts , which wasbuiltonthegrave of the

( x producesand 284 6405;artvlg@ Mosque ofSaid THE WEST BANK & GAZA STRIP •• Gaza City THE WESTBANK&GAZASTRIP••Gaza El-Khartoum St. El-Khartoum 800m southof theIslamicUniversity on and glasswork.You’llfindthevillage about which includesembroidery,copperware arangethen sells of localartandcraft, The Missing Peace byformer USEnvoy

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES .com; Ahmed Abdel Aziz St;s/dUS$50/70; .com; AhmedAbdelAziz d US$90/110; include breakfast. private bathroomsandbalconies.Rates TV, 16 cleanandspaciousroomswithsatellite St, justwestof St,thisplacehas An-Nasser cated twoblocksnorthof Omaral-Mukhtar TERRITORIES DIRECTORY TERRITORIES DIRECTORY PALESTINIAN ISRAEL &THE utes) runthelast5kmtoErez border. (10NIS,fiveMordechai junction;taxis min- utes) andfindasouthbound bustoYad Ashkelon 30min- (21NIS, one hour,every willcostaround300NIS. taxi time toawaitotherpassengers. Aprivate lem (50NISperperson), butallowlotsof sherut workers anddiplomats).Erez isreached by of theInternal (iejournalists,aid Affairs cial permitsgiven bytheIDForMinistry access wasonlyallowedtovisitors with spe- writing wasErez. Atthetimeof writing, The onlyentry/exitpointatthetimeof &Away There Getting House Marna Sleeping 344 Palestinian Territories can change quickly commodation costsin bothIsrael and the ritories is somewhatcheaper). Note thatac- thePalestinian (although Middle East Ter- of themost expensive destinations inthe pricing scalesomewhat, asIsraelisone Egypt tomodifytheir orJordan willneed budgets, travellers although comingfrom ian Territories isvariedandcaters toall Accommodation inIsraelandthe Palestin- ACCOMMODATION food restaurant here isthebestintown. cable TV. Localexpatsreport thatthesea- viewsplusminibarand with excellentsea Gaza, theAlDeirahas12swishrooms,all beach, 1kmtothesouth. theAl-Deirahotel andChalehut between portedly befoundalongthestretch of beach The best Al Deira Or, take anEgged busfromTel Aviv to ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN ••Accommodation TERRITORIESDIRECTORY from Damascus Gate in East Jerusa- fromDamascusGate inEast

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( surfing x 283 8100; [email protected]; Rashid St;s/ 283 8100;[email protected]; Rashid 282 3322;marna_house_hotel@yahoo intheGazaStripcanre- ) Anislandof luxuryin na ) Lo- lers, as they usually have acommon kitchen arehouses great other travel- places tomeet ataround US$25.Guest- starts guesthouse est double roominabackpacker-orientated chargemight US$8to US$10. Thecheap- better guesthouse dorm bedwhilea slightly will charge fora US$6toUS$7pernight Even thegrimmest of Jerusalem fleapits &Guesthouses Hotels h Conference 91060; Centre, POBox6001,Jerusalem Ha’Umah pp284-5; the contact but alsolouder. Formore onHI hostels, generally more amenabletosocialising – the pricesof theofficialhostels andthey’re privatethough, hostels charge athirdtohalf well appointed. Inmostcitiesandtowns, official HIhostels, allof which are cleanand Israel has an extensive networkof 30 roughly Hostels be available, region. especiallyintheNegev (except innationalparks),butwater maynot in manyplacesalongmajor hikingtracks and Haifa. Wildernesscampingispossible beaches, particularlyaroundEilat,Tel Aviv Nahariya. Note thattheftisabigproblemon ortheMediterraneanGalilee coastnorthof shore, of much ofon theDeadSea theSea pitch atent free of charge; butthisisnotso bit more. Onafew publicbeaches, youcan ple wouldexpect;infact,hostels costonlya offer thesortof cheap alternative mostpeo- ties are foundallover Israel,buttheydon’t grounds with Camping all theusualameni- Camping commodation Association street orcheck thewebsite of the them bylookingforsignsposted in the with kitchenettes andcableTV. You’llfind studioapartments cilities toself-contained vary fromsimpleroomswithshared fa- to US$70forasingleordouble. Facilities private homes,rangingmostlyfromUS$25 All over Israelyou’llfindaccommodationin B&Bs andEilat. as theGalilee are more even volatileinresort areas such orinfluxof tourists.Prices with theseasons will alsokeep alistof B&Bsintheircity. often thannottouristinformationoffices 8.30am-3pm Sun-Thu, 9am-noonFri) x 02-655 8405;www.iyha.org.il; 6thfl,Binyanei Israel Youth Hostels Association Israel YouthHostels

(www.bnb.co.il) . Home Ac- . More

(Map (Map www.lonelyplanet.com Hotels Reservations Office Reservations Hotels dining and guest activities. The ming pools, beach access,and renowned category andfacilities mayinclude swim- concept. Theyfitmostlyinto themidrange kibbutzim have turned totheguesthouse In abidtodiversify theirincome, quite afew Guesthouses Kibbutz stated otherwise. chapter willhave private bathrooms unless floorduringShabbat.on every willautomaticallystop bat; andtheelevators willbelimited duringShab- guest services have hours separate formenandwomen; tions; forexample,theswimming poolwill you’ll have todealwith afew quirkyrestric- hotels inthisrange are kosher,which means a swimmingpoolandfitnesscentre. Many pect afullbreakfast plusother amenitieslike fromaroundUS$90andyoucanex- start the USAandEurope. Roomrates usually and filledwithpackage tourgroupsfrom hotels, which areof-the-range often soulless issometimesincludedwith theroom. egg) toast,vegetablesgurt, cheese, andafried for adoubleroom.AnIsraelibreakfast (yo- ties, expecttopayaroundUS$65US$80 hotel roomwithreasonablestandard facili- for hours, swappingtravel info. roomwhere guestslounge around and TV All hotels and guesthouses listedAll hotels inthis andguesthouses withtop- You don’tget anybetter service In themidrange category, foraEuropean PRACTICALITIES

Israel andthePalestinian Territories followtheinternational metricsystem. three pin,roundplugs(European standard). poweris230voltsAC, TheElectric are sockets 50Hz. designedtoaccommodate and two- The predominant videoformatinIsraelisPAL. whichcarriesCNN,SkyandBBC World. guesthouses alsohave cableTV, subtitles. These are supplemented bythe Arabic-languageJordanTV. Nearlyallhotels and channelsfeatureIsrael’s twostate plentyofEnglish-languageprogrammingwithHebrew TV broadcasts (1260kHz). broadcasts newsinEnglish,asdoestheVoiceofAmerica (1323kHz) wave BBCWorldService on 100.7FM (Tel Aviv), 98.4FM 97.2FM (Jerusalem), (Haifa)and94.4FM The short- (Tiberias). English newscanbeheardat10pmon88.2FM. Englishnewsandmusicisplayedsporadically Tel Aviv’s beststationforEnglish-andHebrew-language rockmusicis102FM. InJerusalem, English-language daily( except Saturday)newspapersinclude, Palestinian-produced and ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN ••Activities TERRITORIESDIRECTORY Jerusalem Times

Mp p298 ; (Map (www.jpost.com) Kibbutz Kibbutz x . . InEastJerusalemyoucanpickuptheweekly, 03- amenities andamap. restaurants andcampsites, withprices, publishes abookletlistingallof itshotels, nated 82NIS). hikingmaps(60NIS, lami- sectional tailed country (see p281 de- ). TheSPNIalsosells Aviv, oranyof itsfieldschools aroundthe Nature inIsrael(SPNI)Jerusalem orTel tion, visittheSocietyforProtection of routeFor guidelinesanddetailed informa- andtheGolanHeights.the EilatMountains theWildernessof Zin,EinGedi, Ramon, The mostpopularvenues includeMaktesh wealth of superb hikingopportunities. Hiking With itsrange of terrain, Israeloffers a ACTIVITIES 41Montefiore St,Tel560 8118;www.kibbutz.co.il; Aviv) and blueblazes. beautiful route ismarked withred, white in thesouth.This remarkably variedand areas, fromTel Danin thenorthtoTaba Israel’s least-populated andmostscenic which ramblesforover 1200kmthrough tempt allorpartof the IsraelNationalTrail, check out Wadi Qelt( p339 ). Foran armchair read, The only area considered safe forhiking is murdered while hikingintheJudean Desert. mended. In2001twoIsraeli teenagers were isnotrecom-hiking intheWest Bank Long-distance hikersLong-distance maywanttoat- Note that due to the security situation, Note thatduetothe security Walks inPalestine: Including the Ha’aretz (www.haaretzdaily.com) 345

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES tions of essays: in hiscollec- efforts Israeli history andpeace of the touristexperience intheHolyLand. ten in1871,is stilloneof thebest accounts The InnocentsAbroad Cry try sentimental, fence, domesticandforeign policies. criticisms chronically madeof Israel’sde- which theauthorresponds to32particular showitz’s book but hispointsare validandclear. lationship withCramer’sbrashwriting style, Lost Cramer’s flict, read Richard Ben sible solutionsfortheIsraeli-Palestinian con- andpos- effects To catch uponthecauses, BOOKS sarea (see p313 ). the underwater ruinsof Herod’s cityatCae- worth astop.Analternative istodive amid the world-classreefs of Sinai,it’shardly snorkelling venue, butifyou’re headedfor to thepublicfree of charge. beachesand/or undeveloped are accessible reasons),military someremote, marginal charge admissionfees (orare restricted for the Mediterranean coasts andRedSea and of theDeadSea Galilee, along theSea towater-skiing. fromparasailing everything and thewater-sports of capital Eilat offers unique andtherapeutic‘floating’experience, provides a whiletheDead Sea surf andsail, offer ampleopportunitiestoswim,wind- of all Galilee, alongwiththeSea lent. These, Haifa), areas are andmostintervening excel- Yam,Bat Tel Aviv, (near Carmel Netanya, Eilat’s beaches are ratheroverrated, despite its subtropicalclimate, butthebeaches at Sports Water published byCiceronePress (2002). Nativity Trail 346 by longtime excellent of similarstoriesmixed withpoliticsisthe move to Jerusalem withhisfamily.Aline friends andfamily intheUSfollowinghis letters bytheauthor, DanielGordis,to sent Well-known novelist AmosOz dealsin For somethinglesspoliticaland more isAlanDer- furthertoright Leaning Eilat isIsrael’smajor scuba-divingand While manyprivately ownedbeaches ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN ••Books TERRITORIESDIRECTORY (2004). You may develop alove-hate (2004).Youmaydevelop re- (2002) Elvis inJerusalem Elvis , thecompilationof emailsand Ha’aretz , written by Nabeel Kassis, written byNabeel and The CaseforIsrael In the Landof Israel If aPlaceCanMake You columnist TomSegev. byMark Twain,writ- (2003) How Israel (2003),in , written (2003) ;

The Politics of Denial an academicapproach, tryNurMasalha’s tinian refugees livinginGazaandEgypt. For put inprinttheimages andwordsof Pales- Mohammed al-Aydi, inwhich theauthors of Occupation American media. image of IslamandArabspropagated inthe Covering Islam the Arabworld.Insimilarfashion,hisbook investigates howtheWestern worldviews Abdullah Yusuf Ali. best Englishtranslations of theQuran isby ered themosthistorically sound.Oneof the gint (theGreek version) isgenerally consid- Version isthemost literary andtheSeptua- Old andNewTestaments, theKing James of Bible,which theChristian includesthe Testament. Among themanytranslations and mostof the rest of theChristianOld the Pentateuch (thefive booksof Moses), tinian Territories. TheJewish Bible includes torical significanceof IsraelandthePales- logical texts foranyoneinterested inthehis- home cityafter a30-yearabsence. describes hisheart-breaking return tohis RamallahI Saw ing personal story,read MouridBarghouti’s rael and the Palestinians and controversial work, Palestine EdwardSaid’s conflict, see enjoyed enormousinternational success. (1970; later publishedas (1965) topped byJames Michener’s withkey players onbothsides. interviews al-Tahri, hithertounpublished andcontains Israeli AhronBregman andtheArabJihan of theconflictwascowritten bytheJewish name.same Thislargely balancedaccount of series the published toaccompanytheTV Fifty Year Israel War: &the Arabs Palestine andPeace down onSaturday. Friday, withsome places opening after sun- later) Sundayto Thursday, and9am to3pm Israeli shopping hours are 9amto6pm (or BUSINESS HOURS The Slopes of Lebanon More emotive andgrittyis The Jewish andChristianBiblesare also For aPalestinian perspective onthe The listof popularhistoricalnovels is , andErnestKGann’s (1977). Said’sfamous,influential (1995) by Dick Doughty and (1995)byDickDoughty (1997)describestheadverse (2003) (1989). The BBC’s (1989).TheBBC’s (2003)and , inwhich theauthor www.lonelyplanet.com Orientalism Masada (1989) (2000). Foramov- The Question of The Antagonists Gaza: Legacy ; and The Source ); bothhave Imperial Is- Imperial (2000) was (2000)was (1978) Israel, The The ,

are onSunday. closed Christian Quarters of Jerusalem’s OldCity) andtheArmenian reth, Bethlehem (concentrated inNaza- owned businesses but remain openonSaturday.Christian- are alldayFriday Gaza –businesses closed Jerusalem, Akko,Jaffa, and theWestBank outofis thebiggest night theweek. kets andcafésspringtolife. Infact,Friday afternoon, time,street butatthesame mar- ataround2pmonFriday close and offices downaround3pmonFriday. close most otherpartsof thecountry,businesses sundown onSaturday.InJerusalem and down onFridayandendsonehourafter bat, theJewish atsun- Sabbath,which starts country, thingsgrindtoahaltduringShab- www.lonelyplanet.com curriculum. may berequired to studyitaspart of their tospeakHebrew, need don’t necessarily but studies. Participantsbic andMiddle Eastern overseas operate programmes for students of Hebrew, Ara- universities Israeli Some COURSES kid-friendly. makes placeslike Hebron andNablus less and thecheckpoints towns– between bored, atriptothebeach time. worksevery bowling alleysandcinemas.Ifthey are still as are activitycentres like miniature golf, ( Museum p290 ) inJerusalem. ( p313 andtheTower of) atCaesarea David ( p311 ) inHaifa, themultimedia adventure ofMuseum Science, Planning&Technology tractions aimedatkidsincludethe National centres, at- gamesandactivities.Notable they are foradults,complete withlearning cal sites are geared forchildren asmuch country, aslabelsare often inHebrew. fromyourown best tobringwhatyouneed if anyspecialmedicinesare it’s necessary readily available inshoppingcentres, but are foodandnappiesare ingoodnick.Baby children are asdistances shortandroads Travel on inIsrael shouldn’tbetoorough CHILDREN 7km north of Ramallah, runs bothbeginners7km northof Ramallah, In predominantly Muslimareas –East In largely Tel secular Aviv, mostshops inmindthatmostpartsof the Bear The tense situation in the West Bank – situationintheWestBank The tense Public parksare commoninIsraelicities, Many of andhistori- Israel’smuseums Bir Zeit University Bir Zeit ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN ••Children TERRITORIESDIRECTORY

(www.birzeit.edu) , dates andpayattention tothe localmedia. Register withyourembassy foremailup- situation assporadic violencestilloccurs. tokeep abreastStill, it’sagoodidea of the mal ceasefire wasdeclared in February 2005. proper have relatively been quietsinceafor- Gaza Streets intheWestBank, and Israel Action Terrorism &Military of what’shappeningaroundyou. vious hauntsforpickpockets, aware sostay Crowded touristspotsandmarkets are ob- hold, butkeep valuables withyouinside. it’s finetostowlarge bagsintheluggage ings intothedesksafe. Onintercity buses, tocheckwise yourmostvaluablebelong- vehicle amoneybelt.Inhostels, it’s anduse tions: don’tleave valuablesinyourroomor other country,sotake theusualprecau- the Palestinian Territories asitisinany Theft Theft isasmuch aprobleminIsraeland DANGERS &ANNOYANCES thisregulation(however, israrely applied). and adepositpaidtoprevent inIsrael itssale tobedeclaredment mayneed onarrival, at all.Anyvideo,computer ordivingequip- firearms orfresh meatmaynotbeimported of tobaccoor250cigarettes. Animals,plants, person over 17years of age, aswell250g up to1Lof spirits and2Lof wineforeach Israel allowstravellers to importdutyfree CUSTOMS and literature forUS$650percourse. and advancedcourses inArabiclanguage three foreign nationals were killed inGaza ing a safe In thespring of distance. 2003, points for violenceandyou’re best offkeep- mostly peaceful, butare alsopotential flash- areArabs still holddemonstrations. These .htm isanexcellentsourceof information. www.kibbutzprogramcenter.org/kibulpan time. Thewebsiteand workatthesame you cantake-on studyinaruralatmosphere probably wanttolookforan programmes cost under 500NIS per month. programmes costunder500NISpermonth. also welcomesnonimmigrantstudents.Most immigrants –butwillhave tofindonethat guage school catering mainlytonewJewish hard, there are alsokibbutz Even inthebestof times,bothJews and Travellers wishingtolearnHebrew will For those whopreferFor those nottostudy too ulpanim, ulpan –alan- where

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES mobility restrictions. provides the lowdownfortravellers with don Couch (www.accessinisrael.org), which in Israel &the Palestinian Authority also wanttolookfortheguidebook of charge (adepositisrequired). Youmay chairs, crutches andothermobilityaidsfree ( contact For informationonaccessiblefacilities,DISABLED TRAVELLERS aren’t likely toberelaxed anytimesoon. thwarted and countlessterrorist attacks noying astheymaybe,such measures have As scrutinised. their luggage thoroughly an- likely andhave tobegrilledabouttheirstay airportare the countryfromBen-Gurion reason fortravel. leaving Similarly, those a passportandanswerquestionsaboutyour army roadblockswhere toshow you’llneed port canquicken theprocess. you have agun?’.Flashingforeign pass- andprobablyaskedsearch the question:‘do be checked detector orbody withametal X-rayed.Youwillalso and insomecases terrorist target, – yourbagswillbesearched conceivablybea thatmight and anyplaceelse nals, shoppingmalls,government buildings of athreat. Whenentering busorrailtermi- atthevaguestrumour closed spontaneously and streets, markets andpublicfacilitiesare doned parcelsandpackages are blownup; towed and/ordestroyedbypolice;aban- measures. Suspiciouslyparked vehicles are noid –butalmostuniversally welcomed– be abletoignore Israel’sjustifiablypara- When itcomes travellersto security, won’t Measures Security www.rachelcorrie.org fordetails. See bulldozer assheattempted toblockitspath. after beingsteamrolled byanIDFhouse year-old Corrie,diedshortly activistRachel at thehandsof theIDF;oneof them,23- 348 admissions to most museums and archaeo- admissions to mostmuseums aswell reductions on Railways Israel State discount onEgged a20%discount on buses, ISIC card entitlesbearers to a 10%student discounts atHIhostels andan for obtaining A Hostelling International (HI) cardisuseful CARDS DISCOUNT www.access-israel.com) x Roads into most West Bank townshaveRoads intomostWestBank ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN ••DisabledTravellers TERRITORIESDIRECTORY 02-624 4242;www.yadsarah.org) Access Israel . The

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ottawa.mfa.gov.il; Ont K1P 6L2) 50O’ConnerStOttawa, Auguste Victoriastr 74-75,D-14193Berlin) Auguste Victoriastr Carrisbrook House, 122 Pembroke Rd Ballsbridge, Dublin) House,122Pembroke RdBallsbridge, Carrisbrook Buitenhof 47,2513AHDenHague) Egypt Canada Australia orSyrian embassyinIsrael. is noLebanese in Israelare Jordan,Egypt andTurkey. There ern countrieswith diplomaticrepresentation some forlonger hours. TheonlyMiddleEast- morning fromMondaytoThursday, and Haifarusalem, and/orEilat. Aviv; consulates inJe- somealsomaintain most diplomaticmissionstolocate in Tel vagaries of international politicshave led Jerusalem butthe maybeIsrael’scapital, inIsrael Embassies &Consulates USA UK Netherlands Ireland Germany 146 rueParadis F-13006); Marseille France Canada Australia orSyria. is noIsraeliembassyinLebanon see p400 see andinCairo p172 . Note: there addresses of theIsraeli embassyinAmman sulates inmajor citiesaroundtheworld.For Following are theIsraeliembassies andcon- Israeli Embassies&Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES universities maynotberecognised. ing inIsrael,andcardsissuedbyindividual offer study- studentdiscountsonlytothose logical sites. Having that,manyplaces said HaGefen St); Montreal, PQH3B4S5); .gov.il; Levesque Ouest Suite2620,1155BlvdRene ( Tel Aviv 67060) St,Tel.org.il; 37Sha’ulHaMelekh Aviv 64928) canprovidedetails. in theUSA–listedcontacts NW,WashingtonDC20008)Israel hasnineconsulates Drive ( Ave.il; 800Second NewYorkNY10017); Green, LondonW84QB) 6 Turrana StYarralumla, 2600) Canberra,ACT 00; http://paris.mfa.gov.il; F-75008Paris) 3rueRabelais x x ( Most diplomaticmissionsare openinthe

x 202-364 5500;www.israelemb.org;3514International 03-546 4151; fax03-5441615;54Basel St,64239) New York

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Marseille Haifa 020-7957 9500;http://london.mfa.gov.il; 2Palace ( Montreal ( x x ( ( ( ( x x x x Jerusalem ( ( 01-230 9400;http://dublin.mfa.gov.il; x 03-636 3300; fax 03-636 3380; 3 Nirim St, 03-636 3300;fax 3380;3Nirim ( x x 03-695 0451;www.australianembassy 02-6273 1309;http://canberra.mfa.gov.il; 30-8904 5500;http://berlin.mfa.gov.il; 08-637 6882; 68HaAfroniSt88119); ( ( x 04-813 8811;fax 04-813 8800; 37 x 212-499 5400;http://newyork.mfa.gov 070-376 0500;[email protected]; ( 04 91533990;fax94; 514-940 8500;http://montreal.mfa x Ottawa 02-625 9481,fax 02-625 9178; ( x Paris 613-567 6450;http:// Washington, DC ( x 01 407655 Tel Aviv Aviv Tel

.diplo.de; St,64731) 3DanielFrisch HaNassi Ave); 3 Daniel Frisch St,Tel3 DanielFrisch Aviv 64731) 1572; 192HaYarkon St,64505) -embassy.co.il; 14 Abbe Hillel St, , Tel Gan, St,Ramat 14AbbeHillel Aviv-embassy.co.il; 52506) parties in the Middle East. intheMiddle parties andhedonism.It’soneofthewildest bongo drums,art bodiespainted inrainbowcolours,beachbonfires, Naked VeryNetzanim Beach,Ashkelon) popular andlotsoffun! USA UK Netherlands Tel Gan, St, Ramat Aviv 52506) Jordan Ireland Germany 5 Paul-Émile BottaSt91076); Jerusalem Film FestivalJerusalem Theatre Street International Festival Water Dead Sea Cherry Festival July DanceExperience Tribal FestivalShantipi NewAge BookFair International Jerusalem Festival FolkMusic Jacob’s LadderAnglo-Saxon Israel Festival Festival Abu GhoshVocalMusic May Festival Music Ein Gev April PoetsFestivalInternational JudaicaFairInternational YouthTheatre Haifa International Boombamela Festival March ask attouristoffices. toyear.vary fromyear For the latest dates, The specificdates of Jewish festivals may FESTIVALS &EVENTS (Sea of Galilee) Draws artists fromaroundtheworld. Drawsartists ofGalilee) (Sea Nashashibi St); Nablus Rd,94190); 202 HaYarkon St,63405) Jerusalem) embassy-israel.org.il; 71HaYarkon St,63903) Pardesh ofGlastonbury. inthespirit Hanna)Agathering shashibi St,97200); fax 03-520 8340; 112 Herbert Samuel Esplanade,63572) fax 03-5208340;112Herbert

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Jerusalem (

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Haifa ( 03-751 7722; fax 03-751 7712; 14 Abbe Hillel 03-751 7722;fax7712;14AbbeHillel Tel Aviv ( 03-696 4166;fax4160;17thfl, x ( Tel Aviv x x (Jerusalem) ( x (theGolan Heights) ( 02-671 7724;fax02-5325629;19Na- x Tel Aviv Tel 02-622 7200;fax02-6259270;27 Tel Aviv 03-752 3150;www.netherlands ( 04-838 1408;fax04-8371353;98 ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN ••Festivals &Events TERRITORIESDIRECTORY x ( 02-532 1087;fax02-5820214;20 x (www.boombamela.co.il; (Ein Gev, Galilee) (EinGev, ( 03-693 1313;www.tel-aviv ( x (Jerusalem) 03-524 1101;fax0499; x (Barkai Forest) (Barkai (DeadSea) Tel Aviv Tel (Jerusalem)

(Kibbutz Lehavot Haviva, (Kibbutz 03-519 7575;www.us 03-725 1222;fax03-527 (Jerusalem) (BatYam) ( (AbuGhosh,near x (Jerusalem) (Haifa) 03-520 8300;

10pm Tue) Mon-Wed, 10am-11pm Sun& Thu) .gay.org.il/joh; 7Ben Yehuda St, Jerusalem; the to agayWoodstock. ing in the spiritual Megiddo Forest, withlotsoflivemusic. Megiddo ing inthespiritual Tue &Thu) Binyamin; -ta.org.il; 18Nahalat 7234; chapter the orcontact thecoveragesee citiesinthis forthose oriented venues. entertainment For details, Haifarusalem, and Eilatalsohave gay- cater togaysare atleastgay-friendly. Je- bars thatdon’tspecifically andnightspots the is ofgay capital Israel,andnearlyallof those Aviv Tel freewheeling Undoubtedly, GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS ChoirAssembly Christmas International December Parade Love Marathon Jerusalem Film FestivalHaifa International Festival Theatre Fringe October Wigstock FestivalBereshet September JazzFestival Sea Red Klezmer DanceFestival Festival Full MoonDesert August Festival SoulMusic Oriental Days Kol IsraelMusic DanceFestival Karmi’el Lesbian organisation. 22 Lilienblum St,Tel Aviv; Jerusalem OpenHouse Jerusalem CLAF Transgenders Lesbians,Bisexuals& Men, ofGay Association useful: .globalgayz.com/g-palestine.html. gay andlesbianPalestinians, clickonwww of plight To better understand thedifficult bordercontrols). with tight ingly difficult thishasbecomeincreas-Israel (although many gayPalestinians have taken refuge in exis tent inthePalestinian Territories and Several localorganisations mayalsobe Several ( Jerusalem Infoline Jerusalem h x 7.30-10.30pm Sun,Tue &Thu) (IndependencePark, Tel Aviv) Tel Aviv’s answer inJerusalem. Gayculture isnon- 03-516 5606;www.gay.org.il/claf; (Tel Aviv) (Tel (Agudah; (Agudah; (Meggido Forest) ABohemiangather- (Meggido (Jerusalem) (KfarBlum,UpperGalilee) (Eilat) h x (JOH; (JOH; (Tsfat) (Akko) (Karmi’el)

( (Negev) 11am-4pm Mon &Wed) x 03-516 7234;www.aguda h Gay Hotline Gay (Sea ofGalilee) (Sea x 02-537 3906; 10.30am-4pm Sun, 02-625 3191; www (Haifa) inTel Aviv or h

( (Nazareth) x 10am-5pm h

03-516

8pm- 349

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES soldiers in various Israeliconflicts. soldiers invarious crucifixion ofJesus. distinguish between‘blessMordechai’and‘curseHaman’. according totraditiontheygetsoplastered thattheycan’t Israelistoatone; is thetimefortypicallynondrinking This ofrevelry. dress upincostume andenjoyanevening andadultsalike despicable secularpolitician,Haman.Kids fromthe subjects Queen Esther’sdeliveranceofherJewish , anunleavenedwafer upto1mindiameter. bread the entireisreplaced period, with andduring event, dishes,eachcommemoratingadifferent prescribed several open forlimitedhours. Passover consistsof dinner,orSeder, shuts down;onotherdays ofthefestival, businessesmay are closedandpublictransport cluding shopsandmarkets) and lastdaysofthisweek-long festival, mostbusinesses(in- the Children ofIsraelfromEgypt,ledbyMoses. Onthefirst music,foodanddancing.Festivities includeart, the Israeli government’s take overofPalestinianthe Israeligovernment’stake lands. Pesah The Feast of Passover Feast ofPassover The Pesah Land Day Sunday Easter day on8March. Women’sDay International Good Friday Purim March/April &Love DayofAppreciation Black Hebrew February Day) Tu (Arbour Bishvat Armenian Christmas Christmas Orthodox Eastern January Islamic holidays,see p648 . a calendarof Jewish holidays.Foralistof website (www.ou.org/chagim) haslinksto ish lunarcalendar. TheOrthodox Union year toyear,asthey’re ontheJew- based Dates of Jewish holidaysmayvaryfrom HOLIDAYS 350 The Armenian Holocaust Memorial Day Armenian Holocaust Memorial The Day Soldiers Memorial toShevuot) Omer (Pesah Tombforreligious services. Protestants gatherattheGarden intheOldCity,whilemany and ChurchoftheHolySepulchre throngtheViaDolorosa times are calm,Catholicpilgrims thecrucifixion.When onthethirddayafter ofJesus rection churches,Eastercommemoratestheresur- Eastern Orthodox Protestants andabouttwoweekslaterbytheArmenian and trees planted. this daydifferent typesoffruitandnutsare eatenand people. of the Jewish trials solemnly commemorating thevarious ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN ••Holidays TERRITORIESDIRECTORY The Feast ofLotscommemoratesthePersian (30 March) APalestinian(30 March) dayofprotestagainst Christian holidaycommemoratingthe Christian Celebrated first by the Roman Catholics and CelebratedfirstbytheRomanCatholicsand 19January Thisdaycommemorates fallen Thenewyearfortrees. On This is a Lent-like period period ThisisaLent-like Palestinians celebrate this celebrates the exodus of celebrates theexodusof 5and6January 24April

Year) oftheholiday. beginontheeve andprayerservices (including soapandtoothpaste) andanimalproducts. sex,cosmetics sins andabstainingfrom food,drink, spend 25hoursinprayer andcontemplation, confessing Theobservant penitence thatbeginon RoshHaShanah. 1988). of thePalestine DeclarationofIndependence(signedin celebrates the delivery of the Torah toMosesonMtSinai. celebrates thedeliveryofTorah theProtestant andCatholicEaster.weeks after Friday. theProtestantandCatholicGood place twoweeksafter Simhat Torah Sukkot Yom Kippur Independence Day October Rosh HaShanah September Tish’a BeAv August Shevuot Day Liberation ofJerusalem June called Al-Naqba,theGreat Catastrophe. ForPalestinians, conflicts. lost inIsrael’svarious thisdayis daydedicatedtosoldiers isamemorial Yom Hazikaron, when Israelbecameanindependentstate.Thedaybefore, Yom HaAtzma’ut students(insomeyears,itmayfallinlateApril). Akiva’s Rabbi the 2nd-centurybreak intheplaguethatkilled permissible feast onthe33rddayofOmercommemorate Lag B’OmerPicnics celebrate theirachievements. Labor Day oftheNaziHolocaust. victims two minutesofsilenceinmemorythesixmillionJewish throughoutthedaysignalling Sirens sound periodically OnHolocaustDay Yom HaSho’ah May &ArmenianEaster Orthodox Eastern &ArmenianGoodFriday Orthodox Eastern Mimouna gardens and even inhotels andrestaurants.gardens andeven balconies, visible from inside);thesesitonapartment of plywood with aroofofloosebranches (sotheskyis theExodus. The ness after 40 yearswhichtheancient Israelitesspentinthewilder- homemade of theTemples’. inJune1967. memoration ofthereunification ofJerusalem On Sukkot (Tabernacles Festival) OnSukkot(Tabernacles peopleerect (Pentecost) Seven weeks after Pesah, thisday Pesah, (Pentecost) weeksafter Seven North African Jewish festival. Jewish African North sukkotim (1 May) DayforPalestinian to (1 May) workers This is a commemoration of the ‘Destruction Thisisacommemorationofthe‘Destruction TheDayofAtonementendsthe10days This falls seven days after Sukkot. daysafter Thisfalls seven Thisisthe‘headofYear’ New (Jewish This day commemorates 14 May 1948, Thisdaycommemorates14May (shelters)incommemoration ofthe (15 November) Marks thesigning (15November)Marks Sports matchesandbonfires anda Sports sukkotim www.lonelyplanet.com (4June)Thisisacom- walls are constructed wallsare constructed (22nddayofOmer) Thisfallstwo Takes Takes specific adaptororbuyonelocally. wiring polarity,soeitherbringan Israel- intheUK,buttheyemploya differentused Phone plugslooksimilarto those digital. eight-branched candelabrum) and exchange gifts. eight-branched candelabrum)andexchangegifts. (an night foraweek,familieslightcandleonmenorah Each againsttheSeleucids. revolt Maccabean triumphant oftheTemplecelebrates there-dedication the after in November). (sometimesheld minister,YitzakRabin assassinated prime Christmas Hanukkah December Day Memorial Rabin Yitzhak Spanish written inthe Hebrew alphabet. a blendoflanguage, Hebrew Ladino, and theirtraditional –but dying– still speak A very people smallnumber of Sephardic emerged asIsrael’sfourth major language. the formerSoviet Union,Russianhasnow influx of over amillion RussianJews from conversation,bet) ineveryday butduetoan usingthe Hebrew German (medieval alpha- SomeAshkenazimsented. stillspeakYiddish stock, variousother languages are alsorepre- languages, especiallyinthetouristcentres. attempt to–andmanyspeakotherEuropean and Palestinians speaksomeEnglish–orwill is theSyriandialectof Arabic.MostIsraelis first language of most of theArabpopulation Israel’s nationallanguage isHebrew, andthe LANGUAGE ( thewell-known ISP account,contact and Haifa ( p308 ). Tosignupforyou own hot spotsinTel Aviv ( p299 ), Jerusalem ( p285 ) hour. Visitors carryinglaptopscanfindwi-fi charge anywhere from12NISto30NISper which typicallykeep very longhours and Most citiesandtownshave Internet cafés, ACCESS INTERNET Christian Information Centre in Jerusalem’s OldCity). InformationCentre inJerusalem’s Christian free atthe (distributed Catholicswhoholdtickets observant for Nativity. Notethatspaceinsidethechurchisreserved SqoutsidetheChurchof mass onBethlehem’sManger Eve(24December)midnight to attendistheChristmas January. Whenthingsare calmontheWestBank,event churches celebrateiton7JanuaryandtheArmenians19 Protestants on25December,whiletheEasternOrthodox iscelebratedbyCatholicsand in Bethlehem,Christmas x Israeli phonenetworksare now100% Because Israelisare largelyBecause immigrant 04-856 0660;www.netvision.net.il/services) Commemorating the humble birth of Jesus ofJesus Commemoratingthehumblebirth Also called the Festival of Lights, Hanukkah AlsocalledtheFestival ofLights,Hanukkah ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN ••InternetAccess TERRITORIESDIRECTORY Thisdayhonoursthe . Netvision

for Jerusalem orTverya forTiberias. Hebrewuse names,such asYerushalayim other renditions. signsmay Inothercases, Tsfat Safed and Zfat, may appearasZefat, Kesarya,Qisariyya, and soon;and Qasarya, forexample,mayberenderedCaesarea, bets, butoften transliterations – withbaffling this currency tobeputintouse. Palestinian stateiscreated youcanexpect pound onlyexistsintheory.Ifandwhena 10, 20,50,100and200NIS.ThePalestinian and five newIsraelishekels, andnotes in agorot (actuallymarked ½shekel) andone Coins comeindenominationsof 10and50 (NIS), which isdividedinto100agorot. currencyThe official isthenewIsraelishekel MONEY accepted bymoneychangers. Added Tax (VAT). Eurosare alsowidely in USdollars willsave you the17%Value accept paymentinUSdollars, and paying nies andmanyairlinesquote theirrates and top-end hotels, HIhostels, car-hire compa- departure airport. lounge atBen-Gurion inthe Claim yourrefund Leumi fromBank must belegiblewithoutopeningthe parcel. transparent plastic,andtheoriginalinvoice partially mustbewrappedinsealed, chases be asigninthewindoworat till). Pur- istered with theMinistryof Tourism(there’ll refund onmostitems inshopsreg- purchased exempt theVAT, andothers are entitledtoa card, you’llhave Hapoalim touse Bank. MasterCard oraCirrusPlus formatATM otherbankcards,butwith andseveral Visa accepts where Leumi Bank acceptsVisa. charge nocommission atall. majorevery cityandtown.Typically, they dependent exchange bureaus dotted around commissions and thebestdealsare thein- to place,butbanksmaycharge voracious exchange bureaus keep longer hours. Most 11.30am onFridayandholiday eves. Monday andWednesday, and8.30amto and Thursday, from 8.30amto12.30pmon and 4pmto5.30pm onSunday,Tuesday but these days, restaurantbut these billsarrive with a Most roadsignsappearinallthree alpha- To make thingseasier fortravellers, most Tourists whopayinforeign currency are ATMs are widespread andalmostevery- Exchange rates varylittlefromplace Banks functionfrom 8.30am Banks to 12.30pm Until recently, tipping wasn’tanissue,

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES holders ortravellers-cheque customers. lem andTel Aviv willreceive mailforcard post. Note inJerusa- thattheAmexoffices fice inthecityortownwhere you’llpick up mailorpackagessend to themainpostof- to Europeand2.30NISNorthAmerica. large postcardsandairmailletters are 1.90NIS anywhere intheworldcost1.40NIS,while fromotherplaces.Smallpostcardsto a week three orfourdaysfromEuropeand around and toEurope,abitless.Incomingmail takes to 10daysarrive, Australasia take seven 3.20 Letters andpostcardstoNorthAmerica POST 5.52 4.68 USA US$1 8.16 UK UK£1 NZ$1 9.03 S£100 Syria 0.31 New Zealand 6.55 Lebanon LL100 €1 Jordan JD1 4.00 ¥100 0.81 euro zone 3.95 3.43 Egypt E£1 (NIS) NewIsraelishekel Canada C$1 Unit Australia A$1 Country cies whenthisbookwenttoprint. international moneytransfer services. Western alsooperateoffices Union instant exchange bureau orthepostoffice. Post better tochange thematano-commission 20NIS, regardless of thecheque amount.It’s as banks, butcommissioncanbeashigh content justtoovercharge. drivers donotexpecttips–they’re usually isnotincluded.Note thattaxi that service oranotice 10% to12%additionforservice, 352 and 5.20NIS for subsequent sheets, regard- sheets, and 5.20NIS for subsequent ternational faxfor12NIS for thefirst sheet alocalor in- At post offices, youcan send Fax siderably less. and 7amon weekends, calls costcon- 7pm 7amand7pm.Between apply between where inthecountry, including localcalls, Standard rates (14NISperminute) toany- TELEPHONE &FAX For poste restante, have correspondents are therates forarangeBelow of curren- Travellers cheques may be changed atmost ISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN ••Post TERRITORIESDIRECTORY ritories) is abroad fromIsraelandthePalestinian Ter- tion. Theinternational accesscode(tocall given of atthestart each cityortownsec- the subscribernumber. Localarea codesare the localarea code(minusthezero),then to buy anything. Public facilities itthe West thefacilities without expecting you you use andwill normallylet thetic to such plights at anyrestaurant – mostIsraelisare sympa- emergency, doastheIsraelis doandjust ask toofaraway.Inan is never ‘McBathroom’ Alternatively,and bustrain stations. a often as townsquares, pedestrian underpasses, (and clean have free) publictoilets in such prominentplaces towns Israeli Most TOILETS for60minutes. card allowsyoutotalk andbookshops.A20NIS international stands are also available fromlottery kiosks,news- telephone cardsare soldatpostoffices,but fices andotherpublicplaces.Thebest-value from cardphones,which are foundatpostof- Local andinternational callscanbe made Phonecards which offer comparableinternational rates. Golden Linesand estinian Territories is The countrycodeforIsraelandthePal- Codes Phone andactivationcosts109NIS. purchase 1.20NIS perminute. WithOrange, SIMcard runaround SIM cardfor46.80NIS.Calls a which sells iswithCellcom, the bestdeal coming calls.Ifyouhave yourownphone, hours of timeandfree domestic talk in- charge is185NISwhich allowsaboutthree for acharge of 12NISperday.Aminimum Pelefon allows phonerentalsgo services. both fixed-line andpay-as-you- (localuser) Nokia, Pelefon, andOrange alloffer Cellcom provider before youleave home).InIsrael (but itmaybeworthchecking withyour and mostforeign providers operate here both IsraelandthePalestinian Territories, phonesare extremelyCellular popularin Mobile Phones each page thereafter. to 10NISforthefirst page and5NIS for orreceivecafés, youcansend faxes for7NIS less of thedestination. AtmostInternet x 013 with Barak, 013 withBarak, x 001 with Bezeq, allof 001 withBezeq, x www.lonelyplanet.com 972, followedby x 011 with themselves on the next flight home.themselves onthenextflight whocan’tcomplymayfind of Those stay. fundsfortheirintended length sufficient to provide of evidence areturn ticket and ofabout thepurpose theirvisitandasked may bequestionedbyimmigration officials suspected of lookingforillegalemployment ofassistance thekibbutzormoshav. which teer’s visa, canbearranged withthe and volunteers mustsecure avolun- longer you’ll stay thanyouintended. Kibbutz months, askforitanyway,onthe chance that the fullthree ifyoudon’tplanonstaying even isgenerallywhat youstate whatyouget. So asked inIsraeland howlongyouplantostay days. But(very here) important youwillbe lics alsorequire apre-issued visa. , andsomeex-Soviet repub- and Africancountries(butnotSouthAfrica), of American entry.Nationals of mostCentral port validforatleastsixmonths fromthedate the Palestinian Territories onlyapass- need With afew exceptions, visitors toIsraeland VISAS theirfacilities. hotel ifyoucanuse thing todoisaskpolitely atarestaurant or If there isnothingavai tocarrysomeofit’s agoodidea yourown. toilet paperprobablywon’tbeavailable, so are hardtofind.Ifyoudofindsomething, andGazaareBank usuallynotasgoodor www.lonelyplanet.com Anyone whoappears ‘undesirable’oris givenVisas attheborderare validfor90 Syria viaJordan, see p553 . East. your itinerary sothatavisit to Israelisthatfinal stoponyourtour intheMiddle will negate you never the need foranewentry stamp(itwillseem like left). Even better, arrange and Israel(avoiding Egypt exitandIsraelentrystamps),butmaybe wewere justlucky. East.Wehadnotroublegettinginto Lebanon,of theMiddle SyriaandJordan after visitingEgypt missing stampsmay raisequestionsintheeyesofconsuls whenyouapplyforvisasinotherparts leaving Israel(instead downthe trackthose stamping aseparate pieceofpaper),butfurther forexample: ‘Taba’(marked, or‘Aqaba’) willbenolessincriminatingthanan Israelistamp. but ifyouare crossingintoJordanorEgypt overland, theentry/exitstampsintothosecountries This isfinefortravellersa separate entrycardandnotyour passport. flyingintoand outofIsrael, tainted byevidenceofavisittotheJewishstate. Israeliimmigrationofficialswill, and Jordanrecognise hasbeen Israel –allothercountriesrefuse toadmitanyonewhosepassport ratcheted East,onlyTurkey, upbywhat’sknownas the ‘IsraeliStampStigma’.InMiddle Egypt The game of witsplayedbetweentravellers Eastis and diplomaticconsularsacrosstheMiddle THE ISRAELISTAMP STIGMA For information onpossible new regulations related toorganised grouptravel from Israelto A safer optionincludesreturning orEgypt) from where This tothecountry(Jordan youstarted. Travellers whenentering/ canasktheJordanians andEgyptians nottostamptheirpassport lable, againthebest ISRAEL &THEPALESTINIAN ••Visas TERRITORIESDIRECTORY below. theboxed yourpassport,see blight text, faster service tryasmallerbranch office. faster service another day(usuallyonemonthlater). For only tomake anappointment tocomeback tions thatyourfirst dayof waitinginlineis Tel Aviv office issobacked upwithapplica- The fundsfortheextended stay. sufficient photo. of Youmustalsopresent evidence option)andonepassport-sized entry visa extension (plus75NISifyoutake themulti- 145NISforthevisa ing allday.You’llneed Join thequeueby8amoryoucouldbewait- few daysreport nohasslesorfines. borders. Travellers whooverstay byjusta airport,butnotatland fices orBen-Gurion be sorted outatMinistryof theInterior of- elicits afineof 135NISpermonth–thiscan respect localcustomsshoulddress modestly countries. Womenwantingtoblend inand treatment they’dreceive inmostEuropean Female travellers sort of canexpectthesame WOMEN TRAVELLERS of theInterior the through must applyforavisa moreTo stay thanthree months, visitors Extensions Visa Kiria) x Jerusalem For details on how an Israeli stamp can onhowanIsraeli stamp For details Note that overstaying yourallotted time 03-736 2534;3rdfl,Tel Aviv GovernmentComplex,aka: , with offices in most cities and towns. , withofficesinmostcitiesandtowns. x 02-629 0222; 1 Schlomzion HaMalka St; 02-629 0222;1SchlomzionHaMalka

( Eilat x 08-637 6332;HaTemarim Blvd; if asked, stamponly Ministry Ministry Tel Aviv 353

TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES publico no recourse. They’re wrong.The of illegalworkers, assumingtheworkers have scrupulous employers often take advantage they aren’t easytoget. Unfortunately, un- permit fromtheMinistryof theInterior and awork in Israel,toworklegallyyou’llneed tofindcasualwork While itisn’tdifficult WORK harassment are notuncommon. ing ontheMountof Olives, where reports of tions apply.Take particularcare whenwalk- as wellinArabareas, precau- butthesame areas.these Western womenwon’tblendin skirt andheadscarfare parforthecourse in She’arim). shirt,ankle-length Along-sleeve Jerusalem (includingtheOldCityandM’ea areas like Tsfatin conservative andpartsof 354 .kavlaoved.org.il; 3rdfl,17YlPeretz.kavlaoved.org.il; St,Tel Aviv; 4.30pm Sun,Tue &Wed,noon-6pmThu) chances of success will increase dramatically person atthe kibbutzagent inTel Aviv. Your ternatively, would-be volunteers canapplyin rangements, which isgenerally cheaper). Al- (individuals maymake their owntravel ar- representative willarrange andvisas flights registration fee (around US$50),thekibbutz their owncountry. After collectingabasic akibbutz representativethrough office in allows more privacyand independence. ing thanonakibbutz. Italsopaysbetter and typically more strenuous andmore interest- small, individuallyworked farms,theworkis moshav volunteers 20to35. theagesmust bebetween of 18and32 what toexpect.Note thatkibbutzvolunteers previous volunteers toget arealistic idea of agency propagandawithtestimonials from programme,besureto avolunteer tobalance than anticipated. committingyourself Before with dropoutswhofoundthingsless utopian encounter, andTel Aviv hostels are crowded volunteers are disappointedwithwhat they quitepend. After afew ashortstint,though, their labourforfood,lodginganda smallsti- rural project byvolunteers, whotrade staffed kibbutzim) isacommunalfarmorother or moshav. By definition,akibbutz(plural teers descendonIsraelforastintkibbutz who have paidbyemployers. notbeen onbehalfof workers –legalornot services Some volunteers organise a kibbutz stay Some volunteers organise akibbutzstay On amoshav, which isacommunityof In goodtimes,eager international volun- TRANSPORT INISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TRANSPORT There &Away TERRITORIES••Getting service service Kav l’Oved Kav

( x provides legal 03-688 3766;www h pro bono pro bono 9.30am- 0181-455 7930;1AAccommodationRd,London NW118ED) NY 10017) .kibbutzprogramcenter.org; 21stfl,6333rdAve, NewYork, gmjf.org; FL33137) 4200Biscayne Blvd,Miami, Aviv; St,cnrBenYehuda 18Frishman www.kibbutz.org.il; St,Tel 9380 5124;140DarlinghurstRd,Darlinghurst,NSW2010) and you can expecta barrage of questions at the bestofritories. It’srigorous even times, procedures for IsraelandthePalestinian Ter- some and abreeze forothers) isthe entrance travellers (agreat source of annoyance for A frequent topicof conversation among Territories Israel&thePalestinian Entering THERE&AWAY GETTING TERRITORIES & THEPALESTINIAN INISRAEL TRANSPORT ProgramCentre Kibbutz Centre Israel Aliyah USA Representatives Kibbutz UK ProgramDesk Kibbutz New Zealand ProgramCentre Kibbutz Israel Desk Aliyah Kibbutz Canada ProgramDesk Kibbutz ProgramCentre Kibbutz Australia following offices: not adrug-crazed,beer-guzzling layabout. if youcanconvincetheofficials thatyou’re .com; 950W41stAve, Vancouver, BCV5Z2N7) 5V3); York,OntM3H 2758; Suite100,3995BathurstSt,North PQ H3X2H9); 514-483 6392;Suite206,1Carre CummingSq,Montreal, 2159; 80WebbSt,Wellington6001) 5640; 306 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield South, Victoria 3162) 5640; 306HawthornRd,CaulfieldSouth,Victoria For more oneof information,contact the h Vancouver 8am-2pm Sun-Thu) Ontario ( x ( 604-257 5100;israelmatters@jfgv x (

Montreal x 416-633 4766;fax ( ( x x (Map (Map p300 ; ( ( ( 305-573 7631;aliyahmiami@ x x x 03-9272 5688;fax 04-384 4229;fax ( x 02-9360 2368;fax02- 800-247 7852;www 0181-458 9235;fax 514-486 9526;fax x 03-527 8874; 972 3388;www.ben-gurion-airport.co.il) Egypt, which maybe visited overland, Tur- then with BritishAirways toTel Aviv. toLondonHeathrow,is US$1250 onQantas From Sydney, thelowestcurrent return fare turn fares on ElAlgoforUS$535,nonstop. via Warsaw. FromLondonHeathrow, re- Aviv wasUS$880withLOT PolishAirlines, the lowestreturn fare from New YorktoTel agent orconsolidator. Atthetimeof writing, .travelocity.com), orwithadiscounttravel mally available ontheInternet (trywww the-world itineraries.Thebestdeals are nor- and it’srarely anallowablestoponround- gage totheairport(see p305 ). before andavoid bag- theirflight lugging sengers cancheck indowntownontheday hours InTel priortotheirflight. Aviv, pas- travellers shouldcheck inatleastthree andinternational cially onElAlservices, the USAorAustralia. pay wellover theoddshere for aticket to London onewayforUS$260),but you’ll has reasonably pricedtickets toEurope(eg 2nd floorof the international terminal, phone Saturday). Tocheck oninternational flights, (excepton toandfromBen-Gurion flights Eilat. Israel’snationalcarrierElAloperates airport,outside may touch downatOvda a handfulof international charter flights handles 16millionpassengers ayear. Only international terminal, unveiled in2004, of Jerusalem. An ultramodernUS$1billion is 20kmsoutheastof Tel Aviv and50kmwest Israel’s airport, main gateway, Ben-Gurion Air must specificallyaskforthree months. card. Forthemaximumtimeallowed,you is exactlywhattheywillwrite onyourentry that ‘two weeks’, the country,andyousay in gration askshowlongyouplantostay will likewise becircumspect. Whenimmi- fromneighbouring Islamiccountries stamps in Israelcanexpectdelays. A passportfullof number handy.Anyoneplanningtowork friendsinIsrael,havemeeting theirphone religious orfamilybackground.Ifyouare inIsraelandpossiblyyour acquaintances about yourrecent travels, occupation, any Last Minute Tickets Last Minute Apart fromneighbouring Jordan and Fares intoIsraelaren’t especiallycheap espe- istight, Note thatairportsecurity Ben-Gurion airport information airport Ben-Gurion TRANSPORT INISRAEL&THEPALESTINIANTRANSPORT There &Away TERRITORIES••Getting

( x 03-636 6808) .

(TLV; , onthe x 03- h Airport, Amsterdam. Airport, Hub: O’Hare Airport, Chicago. Hub: O’Hare Airport, bar you from visiting them (see bar youfromvisitingthem(see p353 ). in yourpassportshowingavisitto Israel will butany evidence countriesclosed, with these Palestinian Territories. Notonlyare borders try todosobefore arrivinginIsraelor the If you’re orSyria, planningtovisitLebanon Land advertising. spots forcut-priceflight tively, check around thehostels andnight- in downtownTel Aviv orJerusalem. Alterna- worth getting quotes fromothertravel agents p299 ) offers competitive fares, it’s though The IsraelStudentTravel Association (ISSTA; KLM Airways British Airlines Austrian Airlines American are available Tel between Aviv andİstanbul. take advantage of thegreat airfare dealsthat may bevisited fromIsrael,andlotsof Israelis key countrythat istheonlyMiddle Eastern sarily aninternationalsarily drivinglicence). a drivinglicencefrom home(butnotneces- papers andproof of liabilityinsurance,plus thevehicle’scyclists willneed registration or rentalin ataxi car. Drivers and motor- cross onfootorby private vehicle, butnot the Palestinian Territories, andyou may both have openlandborders with Israeland Air Canada The EGYPT Hub: ViennaAirport. between Israel and Egypt.between Here, travellers ways.com) Hub: Heathrow Airport, London. ways.com) Hub:HeathrowAirport, Hub: Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris. Airport, Hub: CharlesdeGaulle Hub: Pearson International Airport, Toronto.Hub: Pearson InternationalAirport, Fiumicino Airport, Rome. Fiumicino Airport, On theotherhand,Egypt and Jordan Airlines thatflytoIsrael: line) are prices. includedinticket tax ofUS$2toUS$8(dependingontheair- The taxofUS$13andasecurity departure TAX DEPARTURE 24hr) (KL; Taba crossing (AZ; iscurrently the only open border x (AF; (AC; x 03-971 1138;www.klm.com)Hub:Schiphol x (BA; x 03-971 1047;www.alitalia.it) Hub: (OS; (AA; 03-511 0000; www.airfrance.com) 03-511 0000;www.airfrance.com) 03-607 2111;www.aircanda.com) x

x ( x x 03-606 1555;www.britishair 03-511 6700;www.aua.com) 08-637 2104, 08-6360999; 03-795 2122;www.aa.com)

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TERRITORIES ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN THE & ISRAEL ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES .co.il; St) 141IbnGvirol Hotel; the bestwayistohopon see details, p176 . andshared leavebuses taxis forSinai; on citybusNo15.FromtheEgyptian side, National Park nearSharm el-Sheikh. Mohammed is notvalidfordivingatRas and StKatherine’s Monastery; it however, Taba andSharm andto MtSinai el-Sheikh, is validfor14daysandallowstravel between pick upafree Sinai-onlyentrypermit,which day. around2pmthesame the visa opening hours inthemorningand pickup cation andonepassport-sizedphotoduring ( 9-11am Sun-Thu) ( ( crossing the Egyptian side. the IsraelisideandawhoppingE£180on hicle across,you’llpayafee of 32NISon E£20 toenter Egypt. Drivingyourownve- pay a68NISfee toleave Israel,plusaround 356 River crossing River Jordan. There are three bordercrossing points with JORDAN They’re available atthe else.man citizensand100NISforeveryone Egypt, which cost65NISforUSandGer- details. for ( below) Mazadaon organised trips;contact Tours still allowedtoferry payingclientsacross ual travellers. Touroperators, are though, Gaza Strip,iscurrently toindivid- closed where. here tax is 70NIS. Exit It’s not particularly convenient forany- She’anwhich is6km eastof inGalilee. Beit Doqqi) al-Galaa, 5470; CairoSheraton,Midan by inCairo sented theyheadback.MazadaCairo, isrepre- Thursday. After pickinguppassengers in Tel Aviv at9am/11amSunday,Monday and (US$84, 12hours). leave Buses Jerusalem/ Tel Aviv orJerusalem viaRafah andCairo tions 9-11amSun-Thu) Jerusalem x x If youare inahurry, tryingtoget toCairo Access to theTaba borderfromEilatis Alternatively, attheTaba borderyoucan For safety and security reasons,For safety andsecurity the The least used ofThe least used thethree isthe Nearly allvisitors require toenter visas TRANSPORT INISRAEL&THEPALESTINIAN TRANSPORT Around TERRITORIES••Getting 08-637 6882;68HaAfroniSt,Eilat; 03-546 4151;54BaselSt,Tel Aviv; Tel Aviv

( a p288; Map x a p298; Map 08-673 4080) . Deliver yourpassport,appli-

( x x direct bus service between between direct busservice andthe 04-648 0018; x 02-623 5777;15JaffaRd,Pearl Misr Travel Misr , on a ‘safe’ road inthe , ona‘safe’ road 03-544 4454;www.mazada Egyptian consulate Egyptian Egyptian embassy Egyptian h

h ( Mazada Tours Mazada h x for applications . 8am-10pm) for applica- /fax 02-335 Jordan Rafah Rafah ,

Fri &Sat) Fri .co.il) one passport-sizedphoto. day;bring uparound2pmthesame visa You canapplyinthemorningandpick YehudaGan (take busNo66fromBen St). Bridge crossing Bridge that way,get atthe avisa but notatAllenbyBridge. Ifyou’re going Arava) andJordanRiver bordercrossings, (formerly called atboththeRabin purchased see Jordan; fordetails p403 canbe . Visas from JordanisJD5. is 68NIS,entrytoJordanfree andexit Aqaba, Petra here tax andWadiRum.Exit making ithandyfordaytripsfromEilatto lies just2kmnortheastof centralEilat, nated by transport of choice. The network isdomi- tem combineto make bustravel thepublic Israel’s smallsizeand excellentroad sys- Bus reasonable rates. Tiberias hostels hire out bicyclesforquite of forsuch several Galilee; purposes, the Sea best placeforaleisurely cycletripisaround generally respect of acyclist’sright way.The raeli drivers can beaggressive attimes,but climate, winter hills.Is- rainfallandsteep Cycle touristsshouldbear in mindthehot Bicycle Israir Air AROUND GETTING Piraeus (theportforAthens)see p663 . Haifa of between For details sailings and Sea TelGan, Aviv) ( ( Thu, 8am-2pm Fri &Sat) Thu, 8am-2pmFri well asinternational charters toJerusalem. cities,as thesame between operates flights Aviv SdeDov, EilatandHaifa. Tel Ben-Gurion, cluding Saturday)between here tax is127NIS. and 3pm.Exit can beheavy here, 11am especiallybetween Jerusalem and40kmfromAmman.Traffic x x More popularisthe Nearly alltravellers require toenter visas In thesouth 03-751 7722; fax 03-751 7712; 14 Abbe Hillel St, Ramat St,Ramat 03-751 7722;fax7712;14AbbeHillel 08-630 0530; , which alsorunsinternational charters,

(www.israir.co.il) , calledWadiArababyJordanians, , intheTel Aviv suburbof Ramat Egged

h ( x

( x flies at leastoncedaily(in- , which isonly30kmfrom 6.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am-8pm 02-548 2600; 03-694 8888) Yitzhak Rabin crossing Rabin Yitzhak Allenby/King Hussein Allenby/King Jordanian embassy h Arkia , which runs 8am-6pm Sun-

(www.arkia

Mp pp284-5; (Map ( Tel Aviv (Map pp284-5 ; p298; p298; Avis US$10perday). costs atleast you’re inTel staying Aviv, where parking a vehicle canbequite economical(unless onabudget willfindthatsharingthose places arewitharental car,and bestseen Golan Heights areas, andtheNegev these private vehicle. licence inordertorent acarordrive a licence, butmusthave theirhomedriving Drivers won’tneed an international driving &Motorcycle Car ate daily. run duringShabbat, oper- whileArabbuses fected bypublicholidaysandusually don’t urban fares. entitled toadiscountof about10%oninter- Fares are quite cheap andISICholders are on typicallyslowandantiquated vehicles. bus companiesprovide anumberofWest Bank, smallArab-run cluding citybuses. information onschedules andprices,in- andcitybusroutes; callfor long-distance fast andmodernair-con onboth buses companions and all travellers should be Women should not hitch without male of violent crimemake thisarisky business. of getting aroundIsrael, increasing reports hitchingAlthough was onceacommon way Hitching Jerusalemtackling orTel Aviv. fence, especiallywhen andhas alongfuse, driver isgood onboththeoffence and de- per month.Justmake sure yourdesignated orUS$600 for aslittleUS$250 perweek car withinsuranceandunlimited kilometres With mostof companiesyoucanhire these a Hertz Tiberias Eldan Budget x Car hireCar companiesinclude: are buses lessfrequent intheBecause Note thatEgged busschedules are af- In Nazareth, Jerusalem East andthe

04-672 2766; cnr HaAmakim &HaYarden)04-672 2766;cnrHaAmakim Ben-Gurion airport Ben-Gurion airport x x

Ben-Gurion airport Ben-Gurion airport Ben-Gurion airport Ben-Gurion airport Mp p298; (Map ( x

Ben-Gurion airport Ben-Gurion airport 03-522 3332;144HaYarkon St) 02-527 2314;113HaYarkon St); 04-679 1822;1HaBanim) x x x 02-624 8991; 23 HaMelekh DavidSt) 02-624 8991;23HaMelekh 02-625 2151; 24 HaMelekh DavidSt); 02-625 2151;24HaMelekh TRANSPORT INISRAEL&THEPALESTINIANTRANSPORT Around TERRITORIES••Getting ( 03-527 1166;114HaYarkon St); x ( ( x x ( x 03-971 2315); 03-977 2444); 03-977 3400); 03-971 1504); Tiberias Tel Aviv Tel Aviv Jerusalem Jerusalem

(Map (Map (Map (Map

.co.il) rail.org.il) Train Tours United Tours Ben Harim ones: useful aretivated group.These someof the more soithelps toturnupwithamo- sufficient, ing optionsoperate onlywhendemand is sites of interest aroundIsrael.Thefollow- localcompaniesoffer daytours to Several Tours in change. it’sfinetorefuserip-off, ashekel ortwo oftipped, butintheabsence anattempted Tariffs 9pmand5.30am. between rise to ensure thattheshortest route isfollowed. meter, andwatch yourprogress onamap and 25NIS–insistthatthedriver the use lem orTel Aviv 20NIS shouldrunbetween sonable fare –tripsaroundcentralJerusa- Ifyoucan’tnegotiatespectacularly!). area- renowned forovercharging (sometimes Drivers of ‘special’(ienonshared) taxis are SPECIAL TAXI spluttering, smoke-belching Arabbuses. hours of travelling timeover thetypically is limited toJewish towns,the whereroutes, and ontheWestBank, Egged majorthe onlytransportoncertain intercity ‘ser- (pronounced taxi The Arabscallitaservice of bothIsraeland thePalestinian Territories. tries, theshared taxi As inneighbouring coun- MiddleEastern SHERUT Transport Local mean werecommend youdoit. fact thatwetell youhowitworksdoesn’t point anindexfinger attheroad,but local methodof solicitingaliftistosimply circumspect of thecars theyget into. The Israel State Railways Israel State see itswebsite.see get a 20%discount. For thelatest details, Tel Aviv and Haifa orAkko. ISICholders especially recommended fortravel between riya, aswell asanewspur toJerusalem. Itis andNaha- Be’ersheva between rail services cient andinexpensive networkof passenger Note that taxi driversNote thattaxi are notnormally vees runs alimited butconvenient, effi- ’). DuringShabbat, ( x ( 03-693 3412;www.unitedtours.co.il) x

03-546 8870;www.beinharim (ISR; (sherut) x © LonelyPlanetPublications 03-577 4000;www.isra sheruts rules the roads rulestheroads sheruts provide

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