1 Wander the world’s least-visited mountain I 1 range and soak up history I 1 © 1 I Fly UK- via Istanbul; journey I time1 is from around 12.5hrs I 1 May-Oct – best trekking months I Taking the high road Slicing through some of the world’s highest mountains, the Pamir Highway is ’s wildest road, a drive of awesome peaks, ancient art and warm Tajik hospitality Words Caroline Eden | Pictures Matthieu Paley Tajikistan

Clockwise from left: Spectators watch a Kyrgyz horse festival (right) taking place near Murghab town – an attempt to revive the horse traditions lost during the Soviet era; (bottom right) a tersken-laden truck

he mighty peak of 1931 and 1934, the Highway traverses the velour rug. At my feet lay a pile of ornately 7,546m Muztagh Ata Central Asian ’stans, starting in , decorated silver and pink Persian-style hovered across the looping through Tajikistan – from capital dowry boxes, a nod to the ancient heritage nearby Chinese Dushanbe, along the Afghan border and on that links the Central Asian countries. ‘Driving the Pamir Highway is frontier as morning east to Murghab – before heading north into Many of these places, including Tajikistan’s traders weaved . Driving this road is the epitome southern neighbour , aren’t high T between the metal of adventure; the section between Khorog on a Western traveller’s wish-list. But the epitome of adventure’ container-trucks of Murghab’s windblown and Murghab alone has two passes above turbulent as it is, the history of the region bazaar. Zigzagging through the crowds of 4,000m as it weaves through the least- (from Silk Road to Soviets) is fascinating. wiry and hard-drinking Kyrgyz men, visited mountain range in the world. Nowhere is this more true than the fabled I filled my pockets with brightly coloured That night in Murghab, both temperature Corridor – the finger of land that boiled sweets and Chinese biscuits in and darkness fell quickly. Fortunately, divides Tajikistan, Afghanistan and preparation to continue my journey on the Pamiri comforts (such as they are) were on , and the setting for Pamir Highway – one of the world’s most offer at Ibrahim’s three-bedroom homestay. of the 19th century. Today, the ‘Wakhan’ audacious unpaved roads. I attempted to bathe (for an extra $2) in generally refers to the southern Afghan area; Up in the sunlit but cold , a sauna-style bathroom outside in the the northern part belongs to the Murghab – Tajikistan’s highest town at courtyard, flapping my arms like a bird to neighbouring Gorno- province a dizzying altitude of 3,650m – feels like the keep warm and grateful for the relatively in Tajikistan – where I was headed. true bam-i-dunya (‘roof of the world’). A few steady hot-water supply, umuvalnik (hand other travellers, mainly trekkers and Silk basin) and clean toilet. Hitting the highway Road buffs, also bartered for road-friendly Feeling much fresher, I went back inside to Under a bright, cloudless sky the next snacks at this mid-way point of the highway, find the house full of cooking, light and morning, I helped my guides Nadi and but we were a hardy minority. A small laughter. I sat down with my hosts to a feast Dilshot load up a heavy-duty 4WD jeep with number of families live amid the desolate, of fresh bread, potato-and-noodle stew, our luggage and huge jerrycans of water, and lunar-like landscapes of eastern Tajikistan. dried mulberries and vodka. The women of we set to leave for the village of Langar. As They are devoted to the land – though they the house, dressed in traditional velvet we skidded off, two Kyrgyz children waved endure it rather than live off it. The Pamir gowns, tended to me, exposing glittering us goodbye, their faces shiny with mutton Highway, or M41 as it’s officially known, is gold teeth every time they smiled. At fat. During Soviet rule sunscreen was readily their link to the rest of the world. bedtime, slightly dazed by altitude, I dozed available but, since independence, locals

Built by Soviet military engineers between off on a tiny, rickety cot under a thick, garish have reverted to more traditional methods. > Getty www.paleyphoto.com; @ Paley Matthieu

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a potted history of tajikistan

] Pre-8th century AD – Area now known as Tajikistan part of ancient Persian Empire ] 8th century – Arabs conquer Central Asia; introduced ] 9th-10th century – Persian Samanid dynasty rules Central Asia; Bukhara (Uzbekistan) developed as centre of Muslim culture Clockwise from above: > We drove southwards along the gravelly of Afghan village life, but it’s far easier for a little English along with Russian, Tajik ] 13th century – Genghis Khan conquers Locals at a yurt camp on Highway but even as we did so, the snow- camels to cross the rivers that make up and his native Wakhi, of which there is region; becomes part of the Afghan border greet strangers; getting into capped peaks of the Hindu Kush beckoned much of Tajikistan’s 1,300km border with traditionally no written form. ] 14th century – Tajikistan becomes part the swing of things at us off onto rougher, unmarked roads. The Afghanistan than it is for people. “Tonight, Badakhshani songs. We play for of Turkic ruler Tamerlane’s empire Valley near first vehicle we overtook was a weighed- Over the centuries though, many you, from the heart,” Yogdor promised, ] 1860 – Tajikistan divided: north under Khorog; exploring ruins Tsarist Russian rule; south annexed by in the down Lada (car of choice in Central Asia), merchants, agents, spies and explorers have spinning on his stacked, black-leather heels Emirate of Bukhara crammed with five adults, bulbous in layers traversed routes through these mountains. and returning into the house before I could ] 1924 – Tajikistan consolidated into of clothing despite the heat. Men in It wasn’t long before we met their thank him. One of his daughters, dressed in new Tajik Autonomous Soviet Socialist traditional kalpak hats and women in bright, unmistakable modern counterpart: two a gold brocade salwar kameez with her black Republic (part of Uzbek SSR); Tajik ASSR paisley headscarves waved to us, their faces Lycra-clad cyclists. The red-faced hair in two thick knee-length braids, handed gains republic status in 1929 pressed against the dirty, cracked windows. Westerners waved at us to stop and, once out cups of green tea in welcome. ] 1980s – Gorbachev’s ‘glasnost’ (openness) leads to formation of We jolted by them, dodging an enormous, they’d caught their breath, asked if they were As evening tinted the sky pink, Nadi, unofficial political groups and resurgent fluffy red marmot that bolted across the far from Langar. Refusing a ride, they Dilshot and I took our places on a tapchan interest in Tajik culture pebble-strewn plain into its hole. wobbled off again, looking vulnerable (tea bed) out in Yogdor’s fruit-filled garden. ] 1990 – Pro-democracy protests; It wasn’t until two hours later that we passed against the precipitous drops and Our host – now dressed in a light safari suit Tajikistan declares sovereignty another vehicle – this time a belching truck. unforgivingly pockmarked road. and an embroidered tubeteika skull cap – and ] 1991 – Tajikistan declares It was piled high with tersken, one of the few his friends picked up their rubob lutes and independence; joins Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) following useful plants that grows in the eastern Songs of the heart daf drums and began singing, as promised. collapse of Soviet Union Pamirs – it is harvested to be burnt as fuel. We reached Langar just as the sun gilded “Love songs,” Nadi said, with a glint in her ] 1992-1997 – Civil war Bumping around another dusty mountain the top of the mountains for the last time eye, before adding, “about Badakhshan. ] 2000 – New parliament set up; new corner, Dilshot brought the car to an abrupt that day. The village, built at the confluence These songs are for their villages.” national currency (somoni) introduced stop, exclaiming, “There! Do you see?” of the Pamir and Wakhan rivers, was The songs were heartfelt and sung with ] 2002 – Tajikistan doubles troops along Nadi and I squinted into the sun as he a welcome contrast to the lifeless plains of closed eyes and swaying bodies. A little girl Afghan frontier to prevent al-Qaeda pointed to the sparkling where Murghab and the rugged eastern Pamirs. of three or four, dressed in a velvet robe entering country a caravan of eight golden-brown bactrian Leafy trees, grazing goats and the sounds of dress, danced non-stop, her hands elegantly ] 2006 – President Rahmon wins third term; international observers say camels were cautiously crossing over into rushing water and playing children were turning in the hot night air. election is unfair Afghanistan. “They are making a run for it!” everywhere. I hoped the cyclists had made it. In a place devoid of televisions, shops and ] 2010 – President Rahmon’s People’s According to Dilshot, the men we saw with I stayed with Yogdor, the proprietor of the even radios, performances like this, Nadi Democratic Party wins another huge the animals were Tajiks: “The population of finest homestay in the village (equipped, to told me, are a routine leisure activity for the majority in elections; again, monitors Afghanistan is one-fifth Tajik, you know.” my relief, with a working shower, large hard-working , most of whom say fraud rampant.

Pamiri journeys present tantalising snapshots Getty Alamy; garden and Western-style toilet). He spoke are wedded to the mountains. >

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From clockwise: The view of 6510m Peak Engels (the dome-shaped peak) and peak Karl Marx (6723m) when trekking through the Wakhan Corridor; villagers from Murghab; a 4WD is your best form of transport; a Wakhi family travelling through the Corridor near Langar

‘Some of Langar’s hard-to-reach petroglyphs date back to the Bronze Age’

> As the music played we ate melons the size different type of Islam is practised in the the evening before. We found just 20 or so of explained that willow is very important in made his own parchment from the bark of “Quite a history,” I mused. of horses heads, spongy apricots, thin Pamirs than in the fundamentalist regions the 6,000 carvings that are reputedly hidden Tajik culture: “We use it to draw with during apricot trees and wrote more than 26 books. Dilshot nodded, “We’ve had our fair share soup-like plov and non bread, which is further south. Interlaced with Russian in the hills – depictions of mountain goats, Navrouz [Persian New Year]. It is the symbol There were also clay jugs from Bukhara, an of trouble, but now we hope peace will last treated with great respect. Non, a kind of traditions leftover from Soviet rule, most yaks, deer, hunters and (in keeping with of new life because in spring it is the first tree imam’s robes and all manner of lutes and and that more travellers will come.” leavened flatbread that is flavoured with profess the Ismaili faith and follow village traditions) a few musical instruments that comes alive after a long sleep.” stringed instruments; one contraption, He raised his eyes to the mighty a sprinkling of salt and baked in a tandoor the , who is revered as a living god. dotted among the recent Russian graffiti. As part of a wider post-Soviet revival in crafted by the mystic himself, was ‘only ever mountains; I took in the epic, empty scene, oven, much like naan, should never be placed That afternoon, Dilshot promised he’d Tajik culture, there has been a concerted to be played for God’. and thought to myself, yes, more travellers face down or be allowed to fall to the ground. Peace at last show me a little-known museum dedicated effort by the villagers to maintain traditions Further on our journey, Dilshot drew my really should. ■ So important is it that a popular local proverb The main reason to visit Langar is a series of to the life of the Sufi mystic Mubarak-i such as this; the Wakhani Museum – housed attention to some hermit caves that had been Caroline Eden is a travel writer specialising in translates loosely as ‘the bread is in the basket, hard-to-reach petroglyphs, some dating Wakhani (1839-1903), a much-loved local in a wonderful Pamiri house once owned by carved into the mountainside, above a cliff-top South and Central Asia, writing on the subject for The Independent and The Times, and is author of the key is in heaven’. Vodka followed and back to the Bronze Age. After breakfasting astronomer and theologist. After a short the mystic and flanked by huge Marco Polo graveyard. “Wakhani would meditate there,” the Hedonist’s Guide To Mumbai. flowed freely into tiny, cracked shot glasses. on semolina, we set out on the steep paths drive through willow and birch trees, we sheep horns – celebrates this. he told me, “but, before him, Buddhist It was clear the locals’ devotion was to that surround the village to look for them, pulled up at a rock-strewn hill. Dilshot Inside, there were piles of dog-eared ascetics lived there and, after, during the civil know your ‘stans’ turn over to PAGE 86 their homeland and traditions. A very the sharp, clean air clearing our heads from pointed to the slender branches and Alamy manuscripts – lacking any paper, Wakhani war in the 1990s, guerrilla fighters.” >>

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7

Know 2 3 4 your 1 Afghanistan 6 Capital: Ashgabat Capital: Kabul 5 Area: 488,100 sq km Area: 652,230 sq km Population: 5 million Population: 30.4 million Off the beaten track and slightly Its location has guaranteed it a off the wall. From Ashgabat’s starring role in Silk Road trade, ’stans rotating gold statue of deceased but, sadly, a string of conflicts the central asia experts President for Life Niyazov, to has decimated the country’s …from your Tajiki’ to your Afghani’ dinosaur footprints and burning wildlife, architecture and • Camp wild in the Karakum desert in Turkmenistan gas craters of the Karakum infrastructure while the security • Journey amongst the magnificent peaks of the Celestial Mountains • Meet the Golden Eagle hunters of Kyrgyzstan Desert, unique experiences await. situation remains highly volatile. • Mingle with nomadic families in • Explore the Silk Road in Uzbekistan • Swim in the glittering Caspian Sea Highlights Highlights Adventure Worldwide offers over 60 ] The Yangykala Canyon, rivals ] The Wakhan Corridor is original itineraries in some of the Prices from only USA’s Bryce Canyon for colours currently the most secure region world’s most exciting places. £415 per person Explore beyond your imagination... Top Tip Top Tip You need guides outside the city A handful of tour operators (eg Hand-Crafted Specialist Holidays 1 2 3 – independent travel forbidden. wildfrontiers.co.uk) run trips. 0845 304 8679 www.adventureworldwide.co.uk

here’s a distinct lack of Tajikistan Kyrgyzstan Uzbekistan originality in Central Capital: Tashkent Capital: Bishkek Capital: Tashkent T Asian nomenclature: Area: 143,100 sq km Area: 199,951 sq km Area: 447,400 sq km no less than seven countries Population: 7.8 million Population: 5.5 million Population: 28.4 million are called something-stan. The Sandwiched between China and Rich in nomadic culture, high Land-locked and ’stan-locked, core five are , Afghanistan, this former Persian peaks and super horse-riding Uzbekistan was once one of the Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, settlement is made up of a mêlée across the steppes, Kyrgyzstan is most vital hubs on the Silk Road. Turkmenistan and Tajikistan; of clans. Its long and combative the adventure hub of Central Samarkand is a city of dazzling Afghanistan and Pakistan are history takes in Alexander the Asia. It has few historical sites – mosques, monuments and honorary ’stans – they share Great, Russian and British spy thanks partly to the marauding of , but it’s far from the suffix (Persian for ‘land of’) games and a civil war. Genghis Khan. But what it does alone. Bukhara and gleam Pakistan Kazakhstan but are less central Despite being the poorest of have is mountains. Lots of them. with a medieval architectural Capital: Islamabad Capital: Astana geographically. all the former Soviet countries, More than 90% of Kyrgyzstan is bounty: intricately tiled palaces, Area: 796,095 sq km Area: 2,724,900 sq km This region has much shared it’s rich in travel experiences, higher than 1,500m, making it minarets, mausoleums and Population: 190 million Population: 17.5 million history, linked first by the Silk offering striking scenery and a paradise for walkers, trekkers, madrasahs (Islamic schools) grace Sadly, Pakistan is the stuff of This Central Asian giant’s appeal Road, later by Soviet rule. But gargantuan peaks – 93% of the climbers, riders and anyone who the cities respective squares. negative news headlines. You for travellers lies in its emptiness. each is quite unique – in country is mountainous. loves epic scenery. need to do your research The country stretches from the terrain, culture and travel Highlights beforehand, but visitors will shores of the Caspian to the experiences too. Highlights Highlights ] Exploring Samarkand’s be rewarded with a warm Chinese border, with desert, Our quick guide will help you ] Driving along the Pamir ] Yurt-staying near the shores mighty Registan square welcome, awe-inspiring scenery steppe, mountains and lakes in Matthieu Paley; Dreamstime; Shutterstock Dreamstime; Paley; Matthieu tell one ’stan from another. Highway for dazzling views of shimmering Issyk-Köl lake ] The ancient Khorezm region and world-class remnants of between. The nomadic peoples

] Silk Road relics and the natural ] Horse-riding; the alpine boasts the remains of two Images: ancient civilisations – yet few of the Central Highland steppes beauty of the Wakhan Corridor meadows of Jeti-Oghuz Canyon milliennia-old qalas (fortresses) other tourists. offer fine yurt hospitality. We have 15 ] Hiking in the Fan Mountains, are ideal ] Bartering for carpets in the copies of to wander among Tajik herders, ] Visiting Tash Rabat, Central bazaars of Bhukara – dark red is Highlights Highlights win Odyssey’s fantastic lakes and wild goats Asia’s most evocative Silk Road the signature colour ] Driving Karakoram Highway ] Hopping between the ancient Tajikistan and

the High Pamirs (roadside restive inn) Pamirs High the and Tajikistan – where Himalaya, Hindu Kush cities dotting the Silk Road guidebooks to give away! Top Tip Top Tip and Karakorams collide through the Kazakh Desert To see more about the book head to www.odysseypublications.com Keep documents handy: military Top Tip A pure wool carpet might cost For your chance to win go to: officials will be eager to vet your In remoter areas, toilets are £200-plus; carpets on cotton Top Tip Top Tip www.wanderlust.co.uk/ papers in towns; there are usually long-drop: take your bases, about half that price; silk Be culturally considerate – cover Read In Search of Kazakhstan by competitions

numerous checkpoints too. own toilet paper and soap options, ten times as much. to guidebook Odyssey Map: legs/shoulders (both sexes). Christopher Robbins for insight.

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