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Scotland's Highlands & Islands 4

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Scotland’s Highlands & Islands

Orkney & p229

Northern Highlands & Islands p173

Inverness & the Central Highlands p115 Southern Highlands & Islands p46

Neil Wilson, Andy Symington PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ’s SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Day One: Milngavie to Highlands & Islands. . . . 4 & ISLANDS...... 46 ...... 107 Day Two: Drymen to Scotland’s Highlands Lomond & ...... 110 & Islands’ Map ...... 6 the ...... 48 Day Three: Rowardennan Scotland’s Highlands ...... 48 to ...... 110 & Islands’ Top 19. . . . . 8 & . . . 52 Day Four: Inverarnan to Need to Know...... 20 Arrochar...... 53 Tyndrum...... 111 The Trossachs...... 53 Day Five: Tyndrum to If You Like ...... 22 Kings House Hotel. . . . . 112 South ...... 61 Month by Month. . . . . 25 ...... 61 Day Six: Kings House Hotel to . . . 112 Bute ...... 62 Itineraries ...... 28 Day Seven: Kinlochleven ...... 63 Activities...... 32 to Fort William ...... 113 ...... 64 Regions at a Glance. . . . 43 Glen...... 65 & ...... 65 THE CENTRAL ...... 69 HIGHLANDS...... 115 Jura...... 74 Inverness & the ...... 80 ...... 118 THOMASDEKIERE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Arran...... 81 Inverness...... 118 Brodick & Around...... 82 Around Inverness. . . . . 123 Corrie to Lochranza. . . . . 83 West of Inverness. . . . . 128 Lochranza...... 83 ...... 129 West Coast ...... 84 Loch Ness...... 130 South Coast ...... 84 The . . . . . 135 Lamlash...... 84 Aviemore...... 135 , Mull, Around Aviemore. . . . . 138 & ...... 86 Grantown-on-Spey. . . . . 140 Oban...... 86 & WEST WAY P104 Around Oban...... 90 ...... 140 Mull...... 92 & Around. . . . 141 Iona...... 98 Cockbridge to

KICHIGIN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Tiree...... 100 Tomintoul Road ...... 142 ...... 101 Royal Deeside...... 142 North Argyll...... 102 The Angus Glens . . . . . 145 ...... 102 Highland . . . 146 & Taynuilt. . . . . 103 & Birnam. . . . . 146 ...... 148 WALKING THE WEST Blair ...... 150 Lochs Tummel HIGHLAND WAY. . . 104 & ...... 151 Planning...... 105 Aberfeldy...... 152 The Walk ...... 107 Kenmore ...... 153 TRADITIONAL SCOTTISH DRESS P280 & . . .. 153 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Fortingall...... 154 ( Acain) . . . . 207 Scotland’s Highlands ...... 154 Broadford (An T-Ath & Islands Today . . . . . 264 West Highlands. . . . . 154 Leathann) ...... 207 History...... 266 Armadale & . . . . . 210 ...... 155 Highland Culture . . . . 274 Kinlochleven...... 158 ...... 210 Fort William...... 159 (Ealaghol) ...... 210 Landscapes & Wildlife...... 282 Around Fort William. . . . 162 Hills ...... 211 ...... 164 ...... 212 Food & Drink...... 289 Road to the Isles . . . . . 165 (Port Righ). . . . 212 ...... 168 (Dun Bheagain) ...... 214 SURVIVAL ...... 169 Duirinish & . . . 214 Rum ...... 170 ...... 215 GUIDE ...... 171 ...... 216 Canna...... 172 Outer . . . . . 217 Directory A-Z...... 298 Muck...... 172 Lewis (Leodhais) . . . . . 218 Transport...... 305 Harris (Na Hearadh). . . . 221 Glossary...... 309 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS...... 173 (Bearnaraigh)...... 224 Index...... 312 East Coast...... 176 (Uibhist Map Legend...... 319 A Tuath)...... 225 Strathpeffer ...... 176 (Beinn Na Tain...... 177 Faoghla)...... 225 & Around. . . 177 (Uibhist & Around...... 178 A Deas)...... 226 Dornoch...... 178 (Barraigh)...... 227 ...... 179 ...... 180 & ...... 180 SHETLAND . . . . . 229 Helmsdale to Lybster . . . 181 Orkney...... 232 Wick...... 181 ...... 233 John O’Groats...... 182 East Mainland to South Mey...... 182 Ronaldsay...... 237 SPECIAL & . . . . 183 West & . . . . 241 FEATURES North & West Coast. . . 188 ...... 243 Activities...... 32 Thurso to . . . . . 188 ...... 245 . . . . . 57 Durness...... 190 Northern Islands . . . . . 247 Driving Tour: The Trossachs to Mull. . . . . 85 Durness to . . . . 191 Shetland ...... 250 Ullapool...... 195 ...... 252 Driving Tour: A Loch Ness Circuit ...... 133 Ullapool to Kyle Bressay & Noss ...... 256 Lochs & Mountains. . . 157 of ...... 196 Scalloway...... 256 ...... 203 Driving Tour: Wee Roads ...... 257 & Mighty Mountains. . . . 197 Kyle to the Great Glen. . .. 203 North Mainland ...... 259 Scotland’s Islands. . . . 209 Skye...... 204 The ...... 260 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries

Assynt •#

The Minch •# É É

•#

•#Glen •# Inverness É •# •# Plockton

Sea of the Hebrides

Mallaig •# É •# •#

Glen Coe •# •# É

•# Falls of Dochart Firth of ATLANTIC Forth OCEAN •# •# The Trossachs

2 WEEKS A Highland Fling

This tour takes in the scenic highlights of the Highlands, including the Isle of Skye. Begin with a visit to the Trossachs for your first taste of Highland scenery; take a cruise on Loch Katrine and spend the night in . Continue north via the Falls of Dochart at and the fringes of Rannoch Moor. The mountain scenery becomes more impressive, culminating in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill walkers will pause for a day at Fort William to climb Ben Nevis (plus another day to recover!) before taking the Road to the Isles past glorious Glenfin- nan and the Silver Sands of to . Overnight here and dine at one of its seafood restaurants. Take the ferry to the Isle of Skye, spending a day or two exploring Scotland’s most fa- mous island, before crossing the back to the mainland, then head north via the pretty village of Plockton to the magnificent mountain scenery of Glen Torridon. Spend a day or two hiking here, then follow the A832 alongside lovely Loch Maree and continue north into the big-sky wilderness of Coigach and , before making your way back south with an overnight in Inverness. 29

•# Orkney Islands ATLANTIC OCEAN Durness The •# •# •# TRIP YOUR PLAN É Thurso Blackhouse Minch •#

•# Miavaig & Traigh Uige •# •# •#Assynt •# Callanish Lewis É Standing Stones •# Coigach •# É Tarbert É Harris •# •# Ullapool Moray •# Berneray É Firth

North Uist •# It i nerar •# Inverness

South Uist •#

É i es Barra •# Sea of the

Hebrides É •# Oban

2 WEEKS Island Hopscotch

This route is usually done by car, but the Oban–Barra–Stornoway–Ullapool–Inverness loop also makes a brilliant cycle tour (around 270 miles, including the 60 miles from Ullapool ferry terminal to Inverness train station, making both start and finish accessi- ble by rail). CalMac’s Island Hopscotch ticket No 8 includes all the ferries needed for the part of this route. From Oban it’s a five-hour ferry crossing to Barra; you’ll arrive in the evening so plan to spend the night there (book ahead). In the morning, after a visit to romantic Ki- simul Castle and a tour around the island, take the ferry to South Uist. Walk along the wild beaches of the west coast, sample the local seafood and, if you’ve brought your fish- ing rod, look forward to a bit of sport on the island’s many trout lochs. There are good places to stay at Polochar, and (two nights should be enough). Keep your binoculars handy as you follow the road north through Benbecula and North Uist, as this is prime birdwatching country. If you’re camping or hostelling, a night at Berneray is a must before taking the ferry to Harris. Pray for sun, as the road along Harris’ west coast has some of the most spectacular beaches in Scotland. The main road continues north from Tarbert (good hotels) through the rugged Harris hills to Lewis. Don’t go directly to Stornoway; instead head to the Callanish Standing Stones and Arnol Blackhouse museum – the highlights of the Western Isles. If you have time (two days is ideal), detour west to the beautiful beaches around Miavaig and Traigh Uige; there’s plenty of wild and semiwild camping. Spend your final night in the Hebrides in Stornoway (eating at Digby Chick), then take the ferry to Ullapool, where you have the choice of heading straight to Inverness, or continuing north around the mainland coast through the gorgeous wilderness of Coi- gach and Assynt, and on via Cape Wrath and Durness to Thurso, where the ferry to the Orkney Islands awaits. 30

Inverness •#

É

Urquhart Castle Rothiemurchus É Tomintoul •# •# Loch Ness •# Aviemore •# •# É •# •# É •# Newtonmore Cairngorm•#

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Fort É Mountain William É •# Railway É Ardnamurchan •# •# Point •# •# Tobermory •# Glen Coe Pitlochry

Oban É •# •# •# Loch Awe Iona •# Inveraray

It •# É Firth of •# i nerar Kilmartin Glen Forth

•# •# Beaver Detective Trail É Loch Lomond

AT L A N T I C •# O C E A N É •#

i es Tarbert Isle of

Islay •# É •# Isle of

É Argyll & the Isles Heart of the Highlands Mull of Kintyre •#

Heart of the 10 Argyll & the Isles 1 DAYS WEEK Highlands

Argyll and its islands offer a varied taste of The central and western Highlands are Highland scenery, wildlife and history, all famous for mountain scenery, ancient pine within a few hours’ drive of . forests and whisky distilleries. Begin with a scenic drive from Dunoon Beginning in Pitlochry, abandon the to Portavadie via Benmore Botanic Gar- main and enjoy a day’s scenic den, then take the ferry to the pretty drive east across the hills on the A924, fishing village of Tarbert. Devote a day and then north on the A93 through the ski to the Kintyre peninsula, taking in Camp- area of Glenshee to the remote Highland beltown, the Mull of Kintyre and the Isle outpost of Braemar. Spend a night here, of Gigha. Then allow at least two days for and the following day either hike in the touring Islay and its famous distilleries. hills nearby or visit before spending your second night at Ballater. Back on the mainland, head north through – visiting the Beaver From here the roller-coaster A939 takes Detective Trail – to the prehistoric sites you north to Tomintoul and Glenlivet, close of Kilmartin Glen and on to Oban. to the heartland of Speyside whisky. Take your time visiting distilleries as you amble Take the ferry to for a tour of west along the Spey valley to Aviemore, in the Isle of Mull, being sure to visit Duart the Cairngorm National Park. Spend at least Castle and Iona, before spending a night two nights here to explore the ancient pine at Tobermory. From here you can cross to forests of Rothiemurchus and take a trip , allowing a trip to Ardnamur- on the Cairngorm Mountain Railway. the most westerly point of the chan Point, Head west, stopping at the Highland British mainland, before the scenic drive Folk Museum at before con- along Loch to . Newtonmore tinuing to Fort William. Overnight here, Head back south via the scenic splendour then spend a morning exploring Glen of Glen Coe and the minor road through Nevis and head north along the Great to reach Loch Awe. From here Glen to see Urquhart Castle and Loch you can return to your starting point by Ness – leave time for a monster-spotting way of Inveraray and Loch Lomond. cruise – and finish up in Inverness. MOUNTAINTREKS/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN OFF T H E B EATEN TRA CK JEANRENAUDPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Urquhart Castle (p131) Bottom: Callanish Standing Stones (p220) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

very generous with time and information. I’d particu- WRITER THANKS larly like to thank Robin Mitchell, Maggie Maguire, Neil Wilson Graeme Campbell, Jen Stewart and the staff at many Thanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office staff tourist information offices, especially Judith and all over the Highlands; to Steven Fallon, Keith Jeffrey, Janice at Bowmore, Sheona at John O’Groats, Susan Fiona Garven, Derek McCrindle, Bolland, at Callander and Neil at Kirkwall. Jenny Neil, Tom and Christine Duffin, Steve Hall, Elaine Simpson, Peter Fallon and Duncan Pepper; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Smart and the editorial team at Lonely Planet. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Andy Symington Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and It’s always a huge pleasure to enjoy the very gener- Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. ous hospitality of Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland, and to work with Neil Wilson, Cliff Wilkinson and the Cover photograph: Tobermory, Mull; Kathy Collins/ excellent LP team. Numerous other people have been Getty ©

THIS BOOK guidebook was produced by Book Designer Clara Monitto the following: Assisting Editors Michelle This 4th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Bennett, Nigel Chin, Victoria Planet’s Scotland’s Highlands Clifton Wilkinson Harrison, Gabrielle Stefanos & Islands guidebook was Senior Product Editor Cover Researcher curated by Neil Wilson, and Genna Patterson Naomi Parker was researched and written Product Editor Will Allen Thanks to Sandrine Dugast, by Neil and Andy Symington. C Raitt, Lyahna Spencer, Neil and Andy also wrote the Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths Paul G Stewart, Bob Sweet previous two editions. This ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 312

Index

A 258 Bearnaraigh 224 Loch Ness 131, 132 Aberfeldy 152-3 Quoyness Chambered Beauly 128 166 Aberfoyle 53-5 Tomb 249-50 beavers 65 Mallaig 168 accessible travel 298 242 beer 293-5, 294, see 257 accommodation 298-300, Skara 242, 238 also breweries Mull 92 see also individual Standing Stones of Beinn Na Faoghla 225-6 Oban 86, 87 locations Stenness 242 Ben Arthur 53 Plockton 202 activities 22, 25-7, 32-42 Taversoe Tuick 249 Ben Lawers 60, 153-4 Portree 212 adventure sports 240 53 91 Kinlochleven 159 Unstan Chambered Ben Nevis 15, 164, 157, 15, Shetland 252 242 Loch Morlich 138 109, 156-7, 157 195 Ardnamurchan 164-5 Newtonmore 141 Benbecula 225-6 Uist 226 area codes 21, 303-4 Pitlochry 149 Berneray 224 Wick 181 Torridon 200 Argyll, see North Argyll, 189-90 South Argyll Boddam 258 air travel 305, 306, see Bigton 258 166-7, Bonar Bridge 177-8 also scenic flights 23 birdwatching 36-7, 78-9, Armadale 210 Bonnie Prince Charlie 15, amusement parks 139 208, 287 123, 160, 166, 214, 226, An Tairbeart 222 Arnol 220 139 269, 279 An T-Ath Leathann 207 Arran 81-6, 81 261 books 264, 270, 276, Angus Glens 145-6 Arrochar 53 Harris 223 286, 290 200-1 Assynt 192-4 Mull 92 Bowmore 71-2 aquariums ATMs 302-3 North Isles 260 Brae 259 Loch Lomond Sea Life 50-1 Aviemore 135-8 Shetland 16, 252, 258, Braemar 144-5 Mull Aquarium 94 262, 17 Braemar Gathering 26, Birnam 146-8 144, archaeological sites 22, see B 27 also standing stones bagpipes 279 243 Braveheart 159, 162 Banks Chambered Balamory 94 Black Isle 129-30 Bressay 256 Tomb 240 Ballater 142-3 Blair Atholl 150-1 breweries Barnhouse Balloch 50 Blair Castle 150-1, 127 Black Isle Brewery 129 Village 242 Boat of Garten 139-40 Cairngorm Brewery 136 Balmoral Castle 57, 143, 56-7 Blackhammer 249 59 boat travel 306 Colonsay Brewery 80 of Gurness 243 Barra 227-8 boat trips Fyne Ales 64 243 Barraigh 227-8 Cape Wrath 193 Islay Ales 295 Dunadd Fort 65 bathrooms 304 Coigach 194 Brewery 82 Eagle Stone 176 beaches 17, 24 Crinan Canal 64 Isle of Skye Brewery 215-16 Grey of Camster 181 Barra 228 Cuillin Hills 211 Orkney Brewery 242-3, 258 294 Dornoch 178 Elgol 211 Knowe of Yarso 249 Broadford 207 Dunvegan 214 Handa Island 192 241-2 Brodick 82-3 Durness 190 Harris 223 Midhowe Cairn & Inverness 118-20 budgeting 21, 290, 301 Harris 223, 17 Broch 249 Burray 240 Lewis 219, 220, 221 Iona 99 237 bus tours Mull 96 Islay 69 241 Inverness 120 Nairn 123 John O’Groats 182 Jura 75 Road to the Isles 167 Kyle of Lochalsh 203 Lewis 221 Skye 206 Map Pages 000 Sandwood Bay 191 Loch Katrine 55 bus travel 305, 306-7 Photo Pages 000 Shetland 258 Loch Lomond 48, 50 business hours 303 313 Bute 62-3 Scalloway Castle 257 cycling 36, 306, 39, see Northern Highlands Butt of Lewis 219 Skipness Castle 67 also mountain biking 197, 197 Tarbert Castle 66 Braemar 144 Trossachs to Mull 85, 85 Urquhart Castle 131, Glen Lyon 154 Drumnadrochit 131-2 C 31, 124 Loch Katrine Circuit 54 Drymen 107 Cairngorm Mountain 138-9 cathedrals, see churches & Loch Lomond 48 Duirinish 214-15 Cairngorms 18, 135-46, cathedrals Lochs & Glens Cycle Dun Bheagain 214 INDEX 137, 19, 41, 124, 126-7 caves Way 60 Caithness 180-8 Dunkeld 146-8 Boat Cave 99 Oban 86 Calanais 220 Head 183, 287

Davaar Cave 68  B-F Caledonian Canal 132, 157, Dunoon 61 Fingal’s Cave 99 179-80,  D 156-7 ,163 ,160 ’s cave 110 Callander 55-9 dance 18, 278-80, 281 186-7 Callanish 220 Smoo Cave 190 Devil’s Staircase 114 57, 103, 57 Callanish Standing Stones Spar Cave 211 dinosaurs 216 Dunvegan 214 13, 220, 13, 31, 185 ceilidhs 18, 279, 18 disabilities, travellers 67-9 cell phones 20, 303 with 298 214, 56 Canna 172 Central Highlands 44, distilleries Durness 190-1 canoeing, see kayaking & 115-72, 47 Aberfeldy Distillery 152 accommodation 115 canoeing Ardbeg 70, 77 E Caol Acain 207 climate 115 Ardnamurchan Ealaghol 210-11 Cape Wrath 193 food 115 Distillery 165 economy 264-5 highlights 116-17 car travel 305-6, 307, see Blair Athol Distillery 148 Eigg 171-2, 23, 126-7 also driving tours travel seasons 115 Bowmore Distillery 71 Eilean Donan Castle 203, Carrbridge 139 children, travel with 300 Bruichladdich 72 10, 184 castles 10, 24, 57 churches & cathedrals Edradour Distillery 148 electricity 301 178 Glengoyne Distillery Elgol 210-11 Castle 223 Dunkeld Cathedral 146-7 107, 108 emergencies 21 Armadale Castle 210 Fortrose Cathedral 129 Glenmorangie 177, 184 environmental issues 264, Balmoral Castle 57, 143, Gigha 67 Highland Park Distillery 286-8 56-7 Italian Chapel 240 234-5 Eshaness 259-60 Blair Castle 150-1, 127 Round Church 71 Isla of Jura Distillery 74 events 25-7 144 St Andrew’s Cathedral 118 Islay 73 exchange rates 21 Brodick Castle 82 St Clement’s Church 223 Isle of Arran Distillery 83 57 St Magnus Cathedral 233 Isle of Harris F Castle Menzies 152 Clearances 180, 270-1 Distillery 222 Castle of Mey 182-3 Kilchoman 72 Fair Isle 261 climate 20, 25-7 Fèis Ìle 25, 69 103 climbing, see rock climbing Kirkjuvagr Orkney Gin 235 Cawdor Castle 128 Lagavulin 70 festivals 25-7, see Cobbler 53 also Highland Games, Castle 142 Cockbridge 142 Lagg Distillery 84 music festivals Craigievar Castle 57 Coigach 194 Laphroaig 70 262 94 Lussa Gin 74 Coll 101-2, 93 fishing 38-40, 70, 265, 39 Dunollie Castle 86 Colonsay 80-1, 71 Macallan Distillery 296, Aviemore 136 294 Dunrobin Castle 179-80, Connel 103 198 186-7 Oban Distillery 86 cooking courses 292-3 151 Dunstaffnage Castle 57, Old Pulteney 181 Corryvreckan Whirlpool 74 Loch Tay 60, 154 103, 57 Raasay Distillery 216 Cowal 61-2 Outer Hebrides 225, 226 Dunvegan Castle 214, 56 Springbank 68 Craignure 94 River Dee 142 Eilean Donan Castle 203, Distillery 212, credit cards 303 136, 140 10, 184 296 Crianlarich 52-3 Glamis Castle 57 95 147 Crinan Canal 64-5 96 Torabhaig Distillery 210 Skye 212 crofting 180, 272-3 63, 277 diving & snorkelling 42 flights, see scenic flights Cromarty 130 91 Oban 86-7 food 10, 289-96 cruises, see boat trips 102 Scapa Flow 246 forests 284-5 Cuillin Hills 11, 211-12, Kinloch Castle 170 11 dolphin watching 118, 129, Garadhban Forest 110 Kisimul Castle 227-8 Culloden Battlefield 123 130, 167 Queen Elizabeth Forest 218 culture 264-5, 274-81 Dornoch 178-9 Park 54 83 curling 281 drinks, see beer, whisky Rothiemurchus Estate 135, 124 Noltland Castle 247 currency 20 driving tours Forsinard 190 Castle 62 customs regulations 300-1 Loch Ness 133, 133 314 Fort Augustus 132-5 Nairn Highland Knoydart 168-9 mobile phones 20, 303 Fort George 123, 126 Games 123 Kyle of Lochalsh 203 money 20, 21, 301, 302-3 Fort William 114, 159-62, 277 Oban Games 87 Kyleakin 207 moors 283 154 Highland Perthshire 146- Kylesku 192 Morar 166-7 Fortrose 129-30 54, 124 motorcycle travel 305-6, hiking, see walking 307, see also driving

INDEX INDEX Hill House 54 L tours G 259-60 Lairg 178 Mount Stuart 63 Gaelic language 276 Lamb Holm 240 history 266-73 mountain biking 34-5, 35, Gairloch 198-9 Lamlash 84-6 see also cycling F-M holidays 303  galleries, see museums & Holy Island 84 languages 20, 276 Aviemore 135-6 galleries  Hoy 245-7 legal matters 302 BikeGlenlivet 142 gardens, see parks & Leodhais 218-21 Golspie 179 gardens Lerwick 252-6, 254, 238 Great Glen Mountain 220 I lesbian travellers 302 Bike Trails 130 gay travellers 302 immigration 305 Lewis 218-21 Killin 60 geography 282-8 insurance 302 LGBTIQ+ travellers 302 Kyle of geology 282-3 internet access 302 literature 274-8 Trails 178 Gigha 67 internet resources 21 55 Nevis Range 163 128-9 Inveraray 63-4 Loch Awe 102-3, 157, 156 Newtonmore 141 Glen Clova 145-6 Inverarnan 51, 111 103 Mousa 257-8 Glen Coe 13, 155-8, 13, 125 Inverness 44, 118-22, 119 Loch 73 Muck 172, 126-7 Glen Feshie 139 51-2, 110 64 Mull 92-8, 93 Glen Lyon 154 Iona 12, 98-100, 12, 76, Loch Glencoul 192 Mull of Kintyre 68 209, 274 Glen Nevis 162-3 Loch Katrine 55 Munro bagging 33-4 Glen Shiel 203-4 islands 15, 23-4, 209, 286, Loch Lomond 48-52, 112, museums & galleries 22 Glen Torridon 200 see also individual islands 49, 108 Arts Glenelg 203-4 59, Centre 218 Islay 69-74, 71, 77 40 Glenesk 146 Ardnamurchan Natural Isleornsay 210 Loch Maree 199 Glenfinnan 166 Loch Morlich 138 History & Visitor itineraries 28-31 Centre 165 Glenshee 145 Loch Ness 130-5, 157, golf 37-8, 69, 179 39, 156 Beatrix Potter Exhibition & Garden 147 Golspie 179-80 J Loch Ness monster 134 Caithness Horizons 183 Grantown-on-Spey 140 Jacobites 269-70 Loch Rannoch 151-2 Calanais Visitor 220-1 John O’Groats 182 Loch Tay 153-4 Centre 220 Groove Loch Ness 26, 131 Jura 74-5, 71, 76 151-2 Calgary Art in Nature 97 201 Clansman Centre 132 Lochinver 192-4 H K Clò Mòr 223 Lochranza 83-4 haggis 290, 289, 291 kayaking & canoeing 17, Culloden Visitor Handa Island 192 40-1, 17, 40 91 Centre 123 Harris 221-4 Argyll 90 Luss 50 Island Folk Harry Potter 159, 162, 166 Great Glen Canoe Trail Lybster 181, 186 Museum 91 130, 160 health 301-2 Lyme disease 301-2 Gateway to the Glens Lochinver 192 Museum 145 Hebridean Celtic Festival 26, 218, 27 Oban 86 Glencoe Folk Plockton 202 M Museum 155 Hebrides, see Outer 69 Hebrides Road to the Isles 167 Glencoe Visitor Mackintosh, Charles Centre 155 Helmsdale 180 Seil 91 Rennie 54 Glenesk Retreat & Folk 180, Shetland 259 Maeshowe 241-2 Museum 146 270-1 Skye 206, 186 Mallaig 168 Glenfinnan Station highland dancing 279-80 Tay 147 maps 33, 302 Museum 166 Highland Games 280-1, 278 Kenmore 153 marine wildlife 178, 198, Glenfinnan Visitor Braemar Gathering 26, Kerrera 90-1 see also dolphin watch- Centre 166 144, 27 Killin 59-60 ing, whale watching Grantown Museum 140 Cowal Highland Kilmartin Glen 65, 76 measures 300 Groam House Gathering 61 Kincraig 139 Mey 182-3 Museum 129 Kingussie 140-1 midges 38 Hamilton Toy Kinlochleven 113, 158-9 Midhowe Cairn & Broch 249 Collection 55 Map Pages 000 Kintyre 65-9 Milngavie 107 Hebridean Whale & Photo Pages 000 Kirkwall 233-7, 234 Minginish 212 Dolphin Trust 94 315 Highland Folk Tain Through Time 177 Newtonmore 140-1 Port Askaig 73-4 Museum 141 Talla na Mara 223 18, 189, Port Charlotte 72-3 Highland Museum of Tangwick Haa 18, 184 Port Ellen 70-1 Childhood 176 Museum 259 250 Port Righ 212-14 Hugh Miller’s Cottage & Timespan 180 North Uist 225 Portree 212-14 Museum 130 Tomintoul & Glenlivet Northern Highlands & postal services 303

Inveraray Jail 64 INDEX Discovery Centre 142 Islands 44, 173-228, prehistoric sites 22 Inverness Museum & Art 174-5 Uig Museum 221 public holidays 303 Gallery 118 Ullapool Museum 195 accommodation 173 Iona Heritage Centre 99 climate 173 Boat Haven 261  M-S Isle of Arran Heritage Unst Heritage Centre 261 food 173 R

 Museum 82 Watermill 152 highlights 174-5 Raasay 216-17 Kildonan Museum 226 West Highland Museum travel seasons 173 radio 300 Kilmartin House 159-60 Noss 256 rafting Museum 65 Heritage Aberfeldy 152 Land, Sea & Islands Centre 247 Tay 147 Visitor Centre 167 Wick Heritage Centre 181 O railways Loch Fyne Gallery 66 oats 293 music 264, 278-80 Cairngorm Mountain Loch Ness Centre & Oban 86-90, 88, 11, 14, 78 music festivals Railway 138-9 Exhibition 131 Old Man of Hoy 16, 245, Arran Folk Festival 82 Jacobite Steam Mallaig Heritage 16, 239 Train 159 Centre 168 Fèis Ìle 69 opening hours 303 Groove Loch Ness 26, 131 Strathspey Steam Melt Gallery 150 Orkney 44, 232-50, 230-1 Railway 135 Hebridean Celtic Mull Museum 95 accommodation 229 Rannoch Moor 151, Festival 26, 218, 27 108 Museum nan Eilean 218 climate 229 religion 265 Museum of Islay Life 72-3 Highlands & Islands Music & Dance food 229 Road to the Isles 15, Museum of the Isles 210 Festival 87 highlights 230-1 165-8, 14 Nairn Museum 123 Islay Jazz Festival 69 travel seasons 229 Rob Roy 60 Old Haa Museum 260 Mendelssohn on Mull 93 Outer Hebrides 217-28, 205 rock climbing 41-2, 160, Orkney Museum 235 Mull Music Festival 93 Outlander 159 204-5 Shetland Folk Rosemarkie 129-30 Centre 249 Festival 252 Rothesay 62-3 Historical P 249 St Magnus Festival 235 248 Centre 98 Rowardennan 51, 110 Tarbert Music Festival 66 parks & gardens Russian Arctic Convoy Royal Deeside 142-5, 126-7 Exhibition Centre 198 Tiree Music Festival 100-1 Achamore Gardens 67 ruins Sanday Heritage Benmore Botanic Beauly Priory 128 Centre 250 Garden 61 N Clickimin Broch 252 Scalloway Museum 256-7 Na Gearrannan 220 Colonsay House Earl’s Palace 235, 243 Scapa Flow Visitor Centre Na Hearadh 221-4 Gardens 80 Finlaggan 73-4 & Museum 245-6 Nairn 123-8 Dunkeld House Grounds 147 Priory 54 Scottish national parks & Centre 153 reserves 286 Explorers Garden 148 Oronsay Priory 80 Scottish Islands Ben Lawers National Inverewe Garden 198 Ruthven Barracks 141 Heritage Trust 91 Nature Reserve 153 Ness Islands 118 Rum 170, 23, 126-7 Shetland Crofthouse Cairngorms National passports 305 Museum 258 Park 135-46, 137 Perthshire, see Highland 252 Perthshire S Glen Affric National safety 303 Shetland Textile Nature Reserve 128 Pitlochry 148-50 salmon 265, 286 Museum 252 Trossachs National planning Sanday 249-50 Lighthouse Park 48, 53-60, 49 basics 20-1 Museum 100 Sandwick 257-8 nature reserves budgeting 21 Skye Museum of Island Sandwood Bay 191 Craigellachie Nature calendar of events 25-7 Life 215 Scalloway 256-7 Reserve 135 internet resources 21 Dinosaur Scapa Flow 246 Handa Island Nature itineraries 28-31 Museum 216 Reserve 192 scenic flights 48-50 regions 43-4 Museum 189 National 157, 157 travel seasons 20, 25-7 Stromness Museum Nature Reserve 260 Scott, Sir Walter 276-8 Plockton 201-2 243-4 256 192 poetry 275 Sumburgh Head Visitor Noup Head 247 Scrabster 183-8 Centre 258 politics 264-5 Nevis Range 163-4, 35 scuba diving, see diving & Taigh Chearsabhagh 225 population 265 newspapers 300 snorkelling 316 sea kayaking, see kayaking Steornabhagh 218-20 V 48 & canoeing Stevenson, Robert Louis vacations 303 Torridon 200 seafood 276-8 vegetarians 292 9, Seil 91-2 Stornoway 218-20 267-8 104-14, 105, 107, 111, 113, 5, 9, 34, 78, 284 senior travellers 301 128-9 visas 20, 304 walking tours Shetland 44, 250-62, 208, Strathnaver 190 volunteering 304

INDEX INDEX 230-1 Strathpeffer 176-7 Cairngorm Reindeer accommodation 229 Stromness 243-5 Centre 138 climate 229 student travellers 301 W Colonsay 80 walking 23, 33-4 Glencoe 155 S-Z food 229 Sumburgh 258  Affric- Way 128 highlights 230-1 Summer Isles 195 Mull 93 Ballater 143  travel seasons 229 surfing 42 Skye 206 shinty 281 Mountain water sports 48, see also Trail 199, 285 individual water sports 242, 238 Ben Arthur 53 Skipness 67 T Loch Morlich 138 Tain 177-8 Ben Bhraggie 179 Tiree 100 Skye 204-17, 205, 32, 186, Tarbert 66-7, 222, 208-9 79 Ben Lomond 53 Waternish 214-15 Sleat 210 Tarbet 50 Ben Nevis 15, 164 weather 20, 25-7 Small Isles 169-72 tartan 280 Birks of Aberfeldy 152 weights 300 smoked fish 291-2 tax 306 Braemar 144 West Highland Way 9, 104- smoking 300 Taynuilt 103 Callander 58 14, 105, 107, 111, 113, 5, 9, 34, 78, 284 Snow Roads 140 telephone services 20, 193 303-4 West Highlands 154-69 snow sports 41 Cobbler 53 Thurso 183-8 Westray 247-8 Cairngorm Mountain Conic Hill 110, 108 ticks 301-2 whale watching 12, 37, 139, 41 Corryvreckan 12, 37 Glen Coe 155 61-2 Viewpoint 75 Gairloch 198 Glenshee 145 time 20, 304 Cowal Way 61 Lewis 218 Lecht 2090 142 Tiree 100-1, 93 Devil’s Staircase 114 Mull 95, 96 Nevis Range 163 Tobermory 94-6 Five Sisters of Kintail 204 Road to the Isles 167 South Argyll 61-81 toilets 304 Gleann Lichd 204 Tomintoul 141-2 Glen Lyon 154 whisky 9, 265, 295-6, 8-9, South Harris 17 , see also distilleries Torridon 200 Glencoe Lochan 155 296 240-1 white-water rafting, tourist information 304 Glenshee 145 South Uist 226-7 see rafting Southern Highlands & tours 307-8, see also boat Goatfell 82 trips, bus tours, walking Wick 181 Islands 43, 46-103, 47 130 tours, wildlife tours wildlife 282-8, 23, 78-9, accommodation 46 48 train travel 306, 308 see 208, 282, 287, 288 Grey Mare’s Tail 159 climate 46 also railways wildlife tours Hebridean Way 226 food 46 travel to/from Scotland’s Aberfeldy 153 highlights 47 Highlands & Islands Hermitage 147 Fort William 160 travel seasons 46 305-6 Kerrera 90 Mull 92, 93 sport 280-1, see also travel within Scotland’s Killin 60 Shetland 251 individual sports Highlands & Islands 66 women travellers 304 306-8 St Kilda 227 169 work 304 St Ninian’s Isle 238 Trossachs 48, 53-60, 49 Loch Achray 55 99, 208 Trotternish 215-16 Loch Lomond 48 standing stones TV 300 Loch Morlich 138 Y Yell 260 Callanish Standing Tyndrum 52-3, 112 Lost Valley 155 Stones 13, 220, 13, Mamores 159 , 31 185 Meallfuarvonie 130 Z Kilmartin Glen 65, 76 U Uibhist A Deas 226-7 Neptune’s Staircase ziplining 54 Ring of Brodgar 242 Uibhist A Tuath 225 160, 163 zoos & wildlife reserves Standing Stones of 48 Balranald RSPB Stenness 242 Uist, see North Uist, South Uist Sgurr of Eigg 171 Reserve 225 Ullapool 195-6 Skye 204 Highland Wildlife Unst 260-2 South Loch Ness Trail 130 Park 139 Map Pages 000 Up Helly Aa 25, 253 42 Photo Pages 000 Wildlife Centre 147 Urquhart Castle 131, 31, 124 Stac Pollaidh 194 317 NOTES HEATHER M c LEAN

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, , Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, , and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing com- panies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspa- pers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 4th edition – February 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 286 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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