Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Leith Contents Conservation Area Character Appraisal Summary Information 5
Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Leith Contents Conservation Area Character Appraisal Summary Information 5
Conservation Area Character Appraisals 6
Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall 10
Old Leith and The Shore 12
Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ 21
Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb 25
Leith Walk - Special Characteristics 30
Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance 34
Management - Pressures and Sensitivities 37
Management - Opportunities for Planning Action 39
Management - Opportunities for Enhancement 40
Sources 41
2 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Historical map
Conservation Area Boundary
1854 map 1940 aerial
1884 map 1960 map
1900 map Development phases
1915 map Listed Buildings
3 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Leith Conservation Area Sub-areas
Old Leith and Shore Madiera Leith Links Leith Walk Deleted area (now in Pilrig CA)
4 Summary Information Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Location and boundaries Statement of Significance
Leith lies on the coast, some 1.5 miles The character of the Conservation Area derives from Leith’s history both as a port and an north east of the centre of Edinburgh. The independent burgh. Several fine Georgian and Victorian warehouses survive, some now Conservation Area covers the extent of the converted for residential or office use. A rich mixture of civic buildings and mercantile historic town, and includes the Madeira architecture survives particularly at Bernard Street and The Shore. Significant earlier area and Leith Walk, the town’s main link buildings include Lamb’s House and St Ninian’s Manse (both early 17th Century). The with Edinburgh city centre. present street pattern of The Shore area closely follows that of the historic town.
The area is included within the Forth, Leith, The Inner Harbour of the Water of Leith provides a vibrant focus for the Conservation Leith Walk and Craigentinny/Duddingston Area, with buildings along The Shore forming an impressive waterfront townscape. The wards, and is covered by the Leith and Conservation Area also covers the older parts of the Port of Leith, containing many early Newhaven, Leith Central, and Craigentinny/ features including listed dock buildings and the Victoria Bridge, a scheduled Ancient Meadowbank Community Councils. The Monument. population of the Leith Conservation Area The Madeira area retains a largely Georgian domestic character, with stone buildings and in 2011 was approximately 13,804 in 7,852 slate roofs predominating; some of the Georgian buildings retain astragaled windows households. and doors with fanlights. Many of the roads are setted, the main exception being Prince Regent Street. Stone garden walls are a feature of the area. North Leith Parish church Dates of designation/amendments provides a visual focus to this mainly residential area, which also includes major public The Leith Conservation Area was buildings such as Leith Library and Town Hall. designated in 1998. It comprises the former Leith Walk remains the main artery linking the centre of Edinburgh to the old burgh of Madeira and Old Leith Conservation areas Leith. It is characterised mainly by Victorian tenements with shops and pubs at ground with extensions at Leith Walk, Kirkgate, floor level. There are a number of Georgian survivals, most notably Smith’s Place dating Albert Dock and the Citadel. The Old Leith from 1814. Conservation Area was designated in 1977, with a number of subsequent amendments Building types within the Conservation Area vary but are traditionally in stone with slate and the Madeira Conservation Area was roofs. Pockets of public housing development from the 1960s and 1970s, of a contemporary designated in 1975. The Conservation Area character, fall within the expanded Conservation Area. Open space is concentrated at boundary was amended on 30 August 2013 Leith Links, which provides a spacious contrast to the relatively dense settlement pattern to transfer part of Leith Walk and Pilrig of the remainder of the Conservation Area. Street to the Pilrig Conservation Area. Acknowledgements
This document has been produced with the assistance of the Friends of the Water of Leith Basin. 5 Conservation Area Character Appraisals Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Purpose of character appraisals – why do we need them?
Conservation area character appraisals are intended to help manage change. They provide an agreed basis of understanding of what makes an area special. This understanding informs and provides the context in which decisions can be made on proposals which may affect that character. An enhanced level of understanding, combined with appropriate management tools, ensures that change and development sustains and respects the qualities and special characteristics of the area.
“When effectively managed, conservation areas can anchor thriving communities, sustain cultural heritage, generate wealth and prosperity and add to quality of life. To realise this potential many of them need to continue to adapt and develop in response to the modern-day needs and aspirations of living and working communities. This means accommodating physical, social and economic change for the better.
Physical change in conservation areas does not necessarily need to replicate its surroundings. The challenge is to ensure that all new development respects, enhances and has a positive impact on the area. Physical and land use change in conservation areas should always be founded on a detailed understanding of the historic and urban design context.”
From PAN 71, Conservation Area Management. www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2004/12/20450/49052
How to use this document
The analysis of the Leith’s character and appearance focuses on the features which make The Management section outlines the Leith special and distinctive. This is divided into two sections: Structure, which describes policy and legislation relevant to decision- and draws conclusions regarding the overall organisation and macro-scale features of the making in the area. Issues specific to area; and Key elements, which examines the smaller-scale features and details which fit Leith are discussed in more detail and within the structure. recommendations or opportunities identified. This document is not intended to give prescriptive instructions on what designs or styles will be acceptable in the area. Instead, it can be used to ensure that the design of an alteration or addition is based on an informed interpretation of context. This context should be considered in conjunction with the relevant Local Development Plan policies and planning guidance.
6 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal A review of the historical development of entered the Firth of Forth. The tidal mouth was a short row of tenements and a windmill, Leith is important in order to understand how of the river would have afforded a haven for now known as the Signal Tower, built by the area has evolved in its present form and ships long before any artificial harbour was Robert Mylne in about 1686 at the north end adopted its essential character. constructed. The first historical reference to of the Shore the settlement dates from 1140, when the As the port of Edinburgh and a gateway to After Edinburgh’s North Bridge was harbour and fishing rights were granted to Europe, Leith has played a conspicuous completed in 1772, Leith Street and Leith Walk Holyrood Abbey by David I. At this time, it was part in the history of Scotland. It retains a were firmly established as the major route to known by the compound name ‘Inverleith’ strong sense of individuality based on its Leith. Market gardens developed along the (meaning ‘Mouth of the Leith’). long history as a thriving and independent length of Leith Walk to meet the needs of the burgh, and Edinburgh’s rise to importance Leith constantly features in the power struggles growing population of Edinburgh during the can be attributed in part to the success of that took place in Scotland throughout the first half of the 18th century. In 1764, Professor Leith as Scotland’s primary port for almost period and the battles, landings and sieges John Hope developed 13 acres of land on five centuries. of Leith have had an influence on its physical the west side of Leith Walk at Shrubhill as development. In 1548, the Regent Mary of Botanic Gardens. From the late 13th Century until 1707, when it Guise moved the seat of government to Leith was overtaken by Glasgow, Leith was not only The Foot of Leith Walk was still almost entirely and the town was fortified. The fortifications Edinburgh’s port but it was the gateway to rural in 1785 when John Baxter prepared a ran from the west-end of Bernard Street Scotland and its busiest port. Indeed well into scheme for development east of the street. south-east to the junction of the present the 20th Century Leith ships traded with the Scattered development on both sides of Maritime and Constitution Street, south to Baltic, the Low Countries, France, America Leith Walk followed in the late 18th century the foot of Leith Walk, returning to the Shore and the Mediterranean, carrying cole, grain, and the first years of the 19th century. James along the line of what is now Great Junction fish and hides and returning with spice, cloth, Smith, a merchant, bought the site of Smith’s Street. The siege of 1560 resulted in the whale oil and wine. Place in 1800 and by 1814 he had laid out subsequent partial demolition of its defensive a cul-de-sac and the next year built a large Leith officially became Edinburgh’s walls. However, Leith continued to develop as house at its end. port in 1329 and has remained a busy a merchant port. cargo destination ever since. Significant By the mid 19th century, Leith Walk was an In 1656-7 a large Cromwellian fort, Leith improvements and alterations took place important public transport route. Horse Citadel, was built west of the river; a gateway during the 19th Century in association with drawn trams were introduced in the 1870s, of which still survives in Dock Street. By the the Port of Leith’s marine-industrial functions cable cars in 1899, and electric trams a end of the 17th century, Leith had developed and many of these remain in the original few years later. Expansion of the railways from its original nucleus by the Shore to fill state, including the harbour basins. resulted in redevelopment at the Foot of the area which had been enclosed by the Leith Walk and the formation of large goods Leith was first established on the banks of the line of the 1548 fortifications. One of the few yards at Steads Place and Brunswick Road. Water of Leith, at the point where the river developments outside the line of the walls
7 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The railways provided work for large besides those for the making of cordage The Madeira area was conceived as a numbers of people and resulted in major for brewing, distilling, and rectifying spirits, comprehensive design prompted by the speculative developments that extended refining sugar, preserving tinned meats, success of James Craig’s New Town in along the east side of Leith Walk and soap and candle manufactories, with several Edinburgh. Beginning in 1800 with land the adjacent streets towards the end of extensive cooperages, iron-foundries, south of Leith Links it continued in 1807 with the 19th century. These streets form a flourmills, tanneries and saw-mills.” James Gillespie Graham’s feuing scheme herringbone pattern meeting Leith Walk at for a large area of north of Ferry Road. New docks west of the harbour were begun offset junctions. The grid pattern of streets was developed in 1800, and in 1810 Great Junction Street sporadically through the 19th century with In the second half of the 18th century, regular was formed, leading to a new bridge over Georgian buildings set back behind front streets (Bernard Street and Constitution the Water of Leith, as a road to them from gardens. By the turn of the century these Street) were formed on the edges of the the foot of Leith Walk. The large parklands basic rules were abandoned and Victorian town, Queen Charlotte Street (then Quality of the 18th century houses surrounding buildings were inserted in the gaps taking Street) cut through the medieval layout, and Leith were laid out for terraces and villas, their building lines directly from the heel Constitution Street was extended south to beginning in 1800 with land south of Leith of the pavement. This is most noticeable the foot of Leith Walk. At the same time, Links and continuing in 1807 with James on Portland Place where a curved Victorian villas were built nearby and Leith became Gillespie Graham’s plan for a large area tenement projects forward from its a fashionable seaside resort which, as early north of Ferry Road and Great Junction Georgian wings on either side. The most as 1767, included a golf clubhouse built Street. Robert Burn laid out a scheme for important building in the area is William by the Honourable Company of Edinburgh land south of Ferry Road in 1808 and later Burn’s North Leith Parish Church (1816). Golfers at the west end of the Links. a feuing plan for Great Junction Street. However, building was sporadic and these In 1833, Leith was established as an Leith expanded substantially during the ambitious schemes were only completed independent Municipal and Parliamentary 19th century, associated with railway (in significantly revised form) in the late 19th Burgh with full powers of local government. building and the growth of the Port century. Leith’s architectural development of the of Leith; port related industries and time reflected its new status and a number warehousing also grew rapidly during this These first decades of the 19th century also of substantial buildings - a Town Hall, period. The following description of some witnessed a period of major civic building Burgh Court, Police Office - appropriate of the activities in Leith during this period reflecting Leith’s growing power and to its burgh status were built in the centre is given: “Leith possesses many productive wealth. A number of Leith’s finest remaining of the town throughout the 19th century. establishments, such as ship-building and buildings date from this period, including Leith expanded as massive warehouses and sail-cloth manufactories ... manufactories the Leith Bank, the Customs House, the additional docks were built: the Victoria of glass ... a corn-mill ... many warehouses Assembly Rooms, Trinity House, and North Dock in 1851, the Albert Dock in 1881; the for wines and spirits ... and there are also Leith Parish Church. Imperial Dock in 1903. other manufacturing establishments
8 Historical Origins And Development Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal After the passing of the Leith Improvement Following the First World War, the number were converted to housing from redundant Act in 1880 many of the slums and most of shipyards was reduced from six or seven industrial buildings with assistance from of the 16th and 17th century buildings to one, and the stream of pre-war trade the Leith Project Initiative. An important were cleared away and replaced with dwindled significantly. Through the inter- factor in Leith’s revitalisation was the large tall tenements. Henderson Street was war years Leith had high unemployment. stock of solidly built warehouses, usually also forced through the old pattern of However, the population of Leith was still with plenty of natural daylight making them closes and wynds. Concurrent with the around 80,000 at the start of the Second suitable for conversion. The King’s Landing improvement schemes were programmes World War. (1985) was a substantial new private housing of major tenemental development, most development on a former gap site. Leith was the focus of slum clearance significantly the building of dense tenement programmes between the 1950s and 1970s This more recent approach has resulted in blocks over the fields between Leith Walk that resulted in the loss of the historic the central shore and basin areas of Leith and Easter Road. Leith Links were part of a Kirkgate and the construction of a number taking on new identities as important larger area of common land which stretched of large public housing schemes. The centres for high profile and innovative along the coast including part of Seafield. demolition of large numbers of sub-standard business, the relocation of the Scottish Links is Scots meaning sandy ground with houses resulted in a housing shortage, and Government offices, new housing, and high hillocks and dunes, and the present artificial many younger people were forced to move quality restaurants and bars. Leith is also flatness dates from about 1880. out of Leith to find accommodation. This now the permanent home of the former The Links were significantly remodelled at distorted the community profile, with a bias Royal Yacht Britannia and its importance this time and brought, more or less, into towards the elderly. has been further strengthened by the their present form. A formal park, enclosed Ocean Terminal development. The Leith In more recent years the emphasis has by railings with extensive avenues of trees, Townscape Heritage Initiatives resulted moved to urban regeneration, community replaced the former rolling landscape in improvements to the public realm and needs and the conservation of Leith’s of grassed dunes. These improvements individual buildings in Leith. historic environment. The Leith Project removed most of the world’s oldest golf Initiative of 1980-85, incorporated an Despite having lost many of the original course, which is mentioned as early as 1456. industrial and environmental programme buildings on the quayside around the Inner The Links were an important recreational directed at cleaning up buildings; helping Harbour basins and, most of the industries centre, hosting horse racing and athletic to renovate and convert properties for associated with the river and the life on meetings, and still contain bowling greens quality housing, offices and workshops; the water, there are enough buildings and cricket pitches that date from the 19th developing industrial units in disused gap remaining, enough life and business century. sites; consolidating key industries and around the Harbour. The basins all have encouraging new business to develop a different character, all tell a story and all in the historic centre. The Vaults, the have a beauty of their own. Cooperage and buildings along the Shore Kirkgate
9 Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Development pattern Building Types
Leith has a unique and complex architectural Leith was a thriving and expanding Leith retains a broader range of building character that makes it distinctive and commercial and industrial area throughout types from the past than most areas of the clearly identifiable within the context of the 19th century, and much of the town’s city. It has also been the subject of greater Edinburgh. The Conservation Area has at present urban structure and varied foreign architectural influence, which can its centre an important historical harbour architectural fabric stem from this be seen in a number of buildings in Leith. town with its origins in the 12th Century. The significant period in its development as Although less visible than in its heyday architectural character of the Conservation an independent burgh and trading port. (when Dutch, Nordic and French styles Area derives from Leith’s history, both as A combination of the grouping of its influenced many warehouses and offices), a port and an independent burgh, which buildings, the form of its spaces and the this is still reflected in remnants such as imbue its individual architectural elements many features of visual interest contribute the Norwegian and Ukrainian churches, with a deeply rooted significance. Despite to Leith’s positive identity and distinctive and replica buildings, such as St Thomas’s having lost most of its medieval buildings, urban character. Much of the architectural on Sherrif Brae (copied from a church in Leith provides an excellent example character stems from the juxtaposition of Brittany) and South Leith Parish Church of a small 19th century provincial town large warehouses and well detailed later- (copied from a St. Petersburg design). containing architecture which displays a Georgian houses and public buildings. Street names such as Elbe, Baltic Street, rightness and fitness of scale (grand but Cadiz, and Madeira also testify to Leith’s not intimidating) and uniformly high quality maritime tradition and extensive trading of materials, detailing and design which links. have a unique significance in the context of Each period of Leith’s long history has Scottish architectural history. The historical left buildings of major interest. The and architectural importance of the Leith relatively formal spaces of Bernard Street St Ninians Conservation Area is reflected in the and Constitution Street, the remnants of concentration of Statutorily Listed Buildings the medieval street pattern, the range in the area: approximately 400 buildings are of neo-classical buildings, the Victorian included on the Statutory List [32, Category contribution of boldly detailed Italianate A; 243, Category B and 122, Category C(S)]. banks, offices and Baronial tenements, with massive warehouses behind, all unified by the common use of stone, combine to produce a town centre which is among the best and most varied in Scotland. A rich mixture of civic buildings and mercantile architecture also survives particularly
10 Special Characteristics and Key Elements overall Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal at Bernard Street and The Shore. The concentration of public buildings within the Conservation Area makes an important contribution to the architectural character and reflects Leith’s former civic independence and importance.
Leith’s ecclesiastical history is very old, and the area has a considerable number of fine church buildings. The best is possibly the elegant neoclassical 18th century North Leith Parish Church, with its full-height Ionic portico and tall steeple, in Madeira Street. More common are Victorian Gothic buildings such as the South Leith Parish Church (1847-8) by Thomas Hamilton, in the Kirgate and St Mary Star of the Sea (1853-4) by Pugin & Hansom in Constitution Street. St. Thomas’s (1840-3) Church at the head of Sheriff Brae is now the Sikh Temple. The graveyard of South
Leith Parish Church contains a number of fine Georgian grave markers.
More modern and brutalist architecture of the 1950s and 60s is represented by Thomas Fraser Court, John Russell Court, Cables Wynd House (known as the ‘banana block’), Linksview House on the line of the old Tolbooth Wynd, and the Newkirkgate Shopping Centre. Other more recent developments such as Citadel Place, Hamburgh Place and West Cromwell Street have retained a low-rise human scale.
Materials & Details
Building types within the Conservation Area vary but are traditionally of stone, with slate roofs. Pockets of public housing development from the 1960s and 1970s, of a contemporary character, also fall within the Conservation Area. Warehouses are a prominent element throughout the central area, many of them fine examples of industrial architecture, which act as a backcloth to earlier buildings. Several fine Georgian and Victorian examples survive, many now converted for residential or office use. The large rubble warehouse at 87 Giles Street known as the Vaults is one of the earliest, dating from 1682, and most outstanding.
The Leith Conservation Area is of considerable size covering various historical periods and stages of development that form a variety of character areas and spatial patterns. For this analysis the Character Appraisal is split into four sub areas representing distinctive patterns of growth and development:
11 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Special Characteristics and Key Elements Medieval street pattern
Views Topography and Setting Streets Building Types Focal points
Landmarks Grain and Density Development Pattern Streetscape and Activity Activity
Views Spaces Landmarks
12 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Views
The central historic core of the Conservation As a result of the asymmetric road Area is bounded by the Port of Leith to the pattern there are few long views through north, Great Junction Street to the south, the area, but rather a strong sense of Constitution Street to the east and the enclosure and containment. Views are Water of Leith to the west. This area more predominantly internal. Longer views to or less coincides with that enclosed by the and from the Port of Leith and Nelson early defensive walls. Historically it was the Monument on Calton Hill relate Leith to centre of the port activities that sustained the city and to the sea. Leith’s growth and gave it an identity Towers and turrets of a variety of styles separate from Edinburgh. and scales mark views down most of On its eastern edge this sub-area covers the main streets. Examples include the the core of the conservation area along octagonal Art Nouveau tower at the Constitution Street, from Bernard Street end of Great Junction Street and the and the Port of Leith to the north, to Italianate octagonal tower on the Corn property surrounding the foot of Leith Exchange which terminates Constitution Walk, Great Junction Street and the river Street. Many of these landmark features estuary to the west. play a variety of roles.
The Shore area includes both sides of The spires on the corner buildings with the old harbour waterfront to the west. Bernard Street and Coalhill emphasise Distinctive and contrasting edges are and turn the corners, and their added provided by Great Junction Street and interest in the skyline attract and the Water of Leith. Great Junction Street encourage progress further towards the runs along the path of the old citadel wall Shore. The streets to either side provide retaining a straight and formal edge. The distant views to church spires in the river with its steeply rising banks, flowing in distance, which together with the varied a gently winding pattern to the sea, gives rooflines around the harbour, some of more organic and informal edges, softer the warehouses still being gable end on, and green along the upper reaches - harder the cranes and ships now visible in the and functional along the quays and harbour Port of Leith, provide interest and colour walls at the river mouth. to the skyline.
13 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Development pattern
The spatial structure of this area still reveals provision of amenity open spaces. The Maritime Street shows a change to the underlying medieval street pattern, with contrast with the later redevelopment of predominantly larger plot sizes occupied strong radial routes to and from the port. the 1960s is the use of ‘traditional’ urban by warehouses behind the Shore frontage. Constitution Street to the east resembles a design principles in relating buildings to Many of these warehouses and bonds are town main street. The redeveloped Kirkgate each other, to their surroundings and to now largely converted to residential use, runs between the Shore and Constitution the street, and in providing mixed uses with they stand cheek by jowl just allowing lanes Street. It retains the line of the original route ‘active’ street frontages. and wynds to squeeze between them, their in pedestrianised form and some of the bulk accentuating the narrowness of the The form of the Kirkgate Centre incorporates original buildings along it, including South lanes. This pattern of development reflects features, such as the separation of Leith Parish Church and Trinity House. its functional origins and priorities for the pedestrians and cars and the grouping efficient storage of goods, and though a The physical and visual disruption to the of buildings around a precinct, which are number of warehouses have been lost, this spatial structure caused by redevelopment a product of the urban design principles area still retains a robust urban character. in the 1960s is significant and makes analysis prevalent in British post-war reconstruction and description of the structure more and the development of new ‘satellite’ complex than first impressions convey. The communities. major redevelopment programme of the Constitution and Maritime Streets echo 1960s was the final part of a continuum the traditional street pattern. Although stretching back to the development of Constitution Street has been widened in Great Junction Street in the 18th century parts, many of the narrow individual plot and the late 19th century Leith Improvement widths reflected in the building frontages Programme. and the differing building heights along it Great Junction Street is strongly linear with are reminders of the earlier street pattern. its sense of formality strengthened by the This traditional spatial structure is still location of important institutions along its apparent in the network of narrow streets length, such as the former Leith Hospital, St. and lanes with their changing widths and Thomas’s Church, Dr. Bell’s School, and its curving layouts that lead from the western termination at the east by the clock tower of part of the Shore. The frequent street the former Leith Railway Station. Henderson interconnection, the pends running under Street demonstrates the Victorian interest buildings, the small scale of the perimeter in improving housing conditions; with its blocks and the variety of properties within model tenements, broader street width, them all reinforce this character. design for light and fresh air, and the 14 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal In the way that ancient road alignments tend to remain whilst the buildings The river has varying combinations of development change, the bends in the Water of Leith remains, gently angled by a series of and space. On the east side of the Shore the straight edges evidence of early moorings. The bustle of port activity has been continuity of frontages, the building line set to replaced by the calmer recreational pursuits of walking and cycling along the the pavement edge, and the road and quayside, riverside walkway. Following the section of river in the Conservation Area there contain the inner harbour. They frame it to give is a progression of moving from the openness of the parks on either side of its the impression of a long square and a focus for the banks, to the enclosure of the inner harbour back to the present openness of the area, especially to the cafes, bars and restaurants Port of Leith and eventually the sea beyond. Views through to the Port of Leith and that look out over it. This impression is retained on the sea are being considerably eroded, it is very important that contact with Leith’s the west side of the river, although development is maritime heritage and the operational port are not lost. more mixed and less tightly knit.
15 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The north end of Constitution Street is terminated by Bernard Street in which the The buildings range over almost the impression of a square is reinforced by a combination of the street layout, important civic whole of the 19th century, and although and commercial buildings and their architecture. The Buildings of Edinburgh describes their contribution to creating the space this part of Bernard Street as “Leith’s most formal space, a broad triangle with the may not have been due to a formal plan, combined atmosphere of a street and a square narrowing at its west end as it jinks to neither was it completely by accident. the left for its exit to the Shore”. The sudden turn of the street to the left at the west They demonstrate the continuation of a end means that the space is enclosed by buildings, an impression which is strengthened civic tradition in the design of individual by exposed gable ends at the ‘corners’. The former Leith Exchange with its giant ionic buildings which contribute to the creation columns terminates the east side of the ‘square’. However, the focal point is the former of a sense of place, a belief that their Leith Bank, the smallest building in the square. Only two storeys high, its ionic columns combined presence is more important than and bow front, the shallow domed roof over the banking hall, and the symmetry of the their individual status. frontage with matching pilastered bays to each side all combine to give it a presence far greater than its size would suggest. The symmetry is reinforced by the way the tenements on either side step up from it, first to three and then to four storeys towards the corners. The north side, though different in interpretation is of a similar formula.
16 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Grain & Density Streets Spaces
A dense fabric of closely grouped buildings Constitution Street was laid out at the end The area has a medieval structure at the separated by narrow lanes creates a of the 18th century, along the line of one of historic centre which is still reflected in the distinctive character. The main routes the old ramparts of the 1560 fortifications. network of narrow streets and lanes, the through the area are those which define It is characterised by the juxtaposition of frequent street interconnections, the small its edges: the Shore along the Water buildings of diverse architectural styles, size of the perimeter blocks and the variety of Leith, Constitution Street and Great dates and scales. These include Georgian of properties. Junction Street. The centre of Leith has villas, austere 19th century tenements, The Foot of the Walk is closed visually by been identified as an area of archaeological warehouses, and church buildings (St tenements at the end of the street. The west significance. James’, St John’s and St Mary’s star of the Sea). side of the street is set back behind large Great Junction Street follows the line of front gardens which opens up the space one of the ramparts of the Leith defensive between building lines and gives a visual walls of 1560. It was laid out in 1818 and is impression of Leith Walk terminating in a one of the busiest roads in Leith. Its straight square overlooked by the statue of Queen linear form contrasts with the narrower Victoria. The location of the former Leith winding roads to the north. The street is Central Station, the increase in pedestrians, defined by a long procession of mainly the bus terminals and street junctions all four-storey late 19th century tenements reinforce a sense of arrival. built hard to the heel of the pavement, and The Kirkgate was old Leith’s main street it is lined with shops at ground level, above with a lively and varied streetscape. The which are a few small businesses but mainly intimate urban pattern of winding streets residential properties. The tenement on and densely grouped buildings of the Old the Henderson Street corner (Nos. 48-52) Kirkgate was lost in the redevelopment of dates from 1885, and was the first buildings this area during the 1960s. The remaining erected under the Leith Improvement historic remnants include the 15th century Scheme. The former Leith Hospital forms a South Leith Parish Church, the earliest major architectural feature standing to the building in the area, the Gothic revival rear of Taylor Gardens. At the west end of style of which forms an interesting contrast the street the former Co-operative building to its opposite neighbour, the classically with its distinctive clock tower overlooking proportioned Trinity House. Taylor Gardens, forms a major landmark and the view eastwards is terminated by the clock tower on the corner of the former Leith Central Station. 17 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The New Kirkgate shopping precinct and housing development to the north disregard The spatial significance of Bernard Street the distinctive organic structure and scale of the surrounding urban pattern. The Kirgate is best appreciated when entering at is a courtyard of low rise housing with zigzag rendered fronts which is terminated by the the east and wider end where the street multi-storey slab of Linksview House. gradually narrows and changes direction, masking the western outlet and giving The eastwards approach to the Shore along Commercial Street, with high buildings on both a powerful enclosing effect to the street sides giving a strong sense of enclosure and direction, passes the monumental Customs space. The quality and cohesive grouping House and opens out dramatically to reveal the Water of Leith, the Inner Harbour and the of the flanking buildings, the variety of their Shore, a space of historic and visual interest. Bernard Street cuts through the centre of the architectural styles and roof shapes, and area and is lined with buildings of great architectural merit which reflect Leith’s thriving such incidental features as the decorative past, epitomising the mercantile prosperity of the 19th century. It forms the civic centre cast iron lamp posts are part of the street’s of the Conservation Area and is Leith’s most formal space; a broad triangle in which the individual character and visual interest. effect of enclosure, the irregular form and articulation of the space enclosed, and the relationship of the surrounding buildings create a place of great architectural interest. Early 19th century Georgian buildings line much of the south side of Bernard Street. The harbour remains a significant open space in which interest is provided by the buildings The centrepiece being the former Leith and activities on either bank. The views in this part of the Conservation Area are mainly Bank (1804) an elegant two storey classical internal. At either end there are limited views through the bridge towards the Port of structure with an Ionic-columned bow Leith and to distant church spires inland. Longer views down Henderson Street to the window standing on an island, separated Port of Leith and up Constitution Street to Calton Hill and teh Nelson Monument are also by narrow lanes on either side from the important. neighbouring three and four-storey blocks The contrast between open space and enclosure at the Shore is reinforced by a wall of and flanked by symmetrical tenements similar building heights and types set at the heel of pavement along the narrow quayside of 1807-15. The north side is more varied access road. Warehouses with a higher ratio of wall to window, where the windows are with the Italianate former Royal Bank smaller and at wider spacing than tenements, accentuate the enclosure. Tenement and of Scotland (1871-2) at the east end, former warehouse development around the harbour is mainly 4 to 5 storeys, of continuous followed by the Clydesdale Bank (1923), frontages and building lines, given vertical emphasis by gabled frontages and dormers. in a modernistic neo- Georgian. Then the early 19th century Nos. 8- 14, adjoining a The Inner Harbour of the Water of Leith provides a vibrant focus for the Conservation mid-Victorian palazzo, followed by the twin Area, the older parts of the Port of Leith, containing many early features including listed bows of Nos. 22-24. The north side of the dock buildings. Scheduled Ancient Monuments associated with the Port of Leith consist final section of Bernard Street is lined with of: the Victoria Bridge, the dry dock off Sandport Street, the swing bridge and lock at the late Georgian buildings. The restrained East Old Dock, and features related to the Albert Dock. Georgian grouping is broken by the Baronial detailing of Nos. 50-58.
18 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building Types
Warehouse conversions in Maritime and Water, Streets and Timber Bush show how the traditional character can be preserved. Overall their conversion retains the sense of confinement given their robust stone construction, pend entrances, punched windows, and cast iron work detailing. The retention of the original streetscape of setts and stone kerbs, iron rails and cart track stones, heavy cast iron bollards protecting corners and entrances all still convey an image of a busy maritime past.
New developments have shown mixed responses to the traditional character of the area. Sheriff Bank and Park with their suburban layout, frequent changes in scale, miniaturised proportions and orange brick, do not reflect the traditional character. The recent developments in Shore Place and Bowies Close, retain and tie in sympathetically with existing buildings at either end of the street, their frontages replicate narrow plot widths giving a vertical emphasis which is reinforced by changes in material and traditional gablets.
19 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks
The bronze statue of Burns (1898) stands at the junction of Bernard Street and Constitution Street, adjoining the massive five storey Waterloo Buildings (1820) with its setback bowed corner, which is the largest and grandest of Leith’s Georgian tenements. Distinguished buildings such as the old Corn Exchange, and the dignified 18th century Exchange Building provide a strong civic character to the junction. The Italianate former Corn Exchange (1860-3) emphasises its prominent corner site with an octagonal domed tower surmounted by a cupola, flanked by two storeys of arcaded windows and incorporates a distinctive carved frieze.
A number of significant early historic buildings are located in the Shore area. These include:
• The circular battlemented Signal Tower, built in 1686 by Robert Mylne as a windmill for making rape-seed oil, which forms an important focal point at the corner of the Shore and Tower Street.
• Lamb’s House in Water’s Close off Burgess Street is one of the largest and most architecturally important early 17th century merchants’ houses in Scotland. It is an impressive four storeys, incorporating traditional architectural features such as harled walls, corbels, asymmetrical gablets, crowsteps, a steep pitched pantiled roof, and windows with fixed leaded upper lights with shutters below. The building was restored and converted into a day centre for the elderly in 1959 by Robert Hurd and has recently been refurbished as a house and office by Groves Raines Architects.
• St Ninian’s Church and Manse which dates from circa 1493 with later reconstructions. The building incorporates a distinctive ogee spire, and has been recently restored and converted for residential / commercial.
• The King’s Wark at the corner of Bernard Street and The Shore has characteristic Dutch gables and scrolled skewputts in typical early 18th century fashion. It stands on older foundations and was part of a complex of buildings that included a chapel, royal mansion and tennis court.
20 Old Leith and The Shore Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal • The Custom House in Commercial Street was designed by Robert Reid in 1812. Its Greek Doric Revival style is typical of the way Leith buildings of the period tended to reflect on a smaller scale those of the neo-classical New Town of Edinburgh.
Notable buildings on Great Junction Street include:
• The former State Cinema at No. 105 dating from 1938 in a Modern Movement style with white geometric walls massing up to a pagoda inspired tower.
• An Edwardian Art Nouveau inspired group at 160-174 which includes the former Leith Provident Cooperative Society building with its imposing domed octagonal corner-tower and a four-storey red sandstone fronted Glasgow style tenement dating from 1905.
• The long Tudor frontage of Dr Bell’s School which dates from 1839 with its crowstepped screen walls, octagonal piers and ornately canopied niche containing a statue of Dr Andrew Bell who endowed the school in 1831. It was taken over by the Leith School Board in 1891 (becoming the Great Junction Street School). At the rear of the original building, the Swimming Baths of 1896 reflect the architectural style of the school.
• St Thomas’s is a plain late-classical church dating from 1824-5.
Notable buildings on Constitution Street include:
• Leith Assembly Rooms and Exchange (Nos. 37-43), dating from 1809. The Exchange Building was built as a meeting place for merchants, and incorporated the Assembly Rooms which were the centre of old Leith’s social scene while the Exchange and Bernard Street were regarded as the commercial centre. The building presents a long three storey frontage to Constitution Street with a central pediment incorporating Ionic columns. It fits in well with the scale of Bernard Street creating a varied but unified composition.
• Leith Town Hall and Police Station is located at the north east corner of Constitution Street and Queen Charlotte Street. A robust monumental neo-classical building which makes excellent use of its corner site.
• 92 Constitution Street was built as a merchant’s house in 1793 and with its giant Corinthian pilasters and urns surmounting the pediment is the grandest late 18th century house in Leith.
21 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streetscape & Activity
The robust streetscape enhances the character of the medieval core and the harbour. In the historic core of Leith, the street pattern retains elements of its medieval Leith is an intensively developed urban area with a multiplicity of land use activities co- form and most of the principal roads within existing with the predominant residential use. It contains a full range of social, commercial the Conservation Area were established and community facilities, and performs an important shopping and service role for people in the 19th century. The flow of large working and living in the area. There has been a substantial reduction in Leith’s traditional commercial vehicles and other traffic manufacturing industries around which its growth was based. However, industry remains an detracts from their environmental quality. important land use in Leith, but is now spread across a more diverse base with increasing Redevelopment on the northern fringes of growth in the service and technology sectors. the Conservation Area herald further retail, The business area is centred on its historic core and contains a variety of commercial office and residential development. activities amidst housing and shops. The office of the Scottish Executive is based at The streetscape at the Shore matches the Victoria Quay, and the Port of Leith are an important port with some 2000 jobs based character of the medieval core and the in the dock area. Outside of the historic core residential uses within mainly tenemental robust surfaces required for the harbour. property, with retail uses on the ground floors, predominate. Most of the streets are setted with stone Leith’s urban heritage and identity also make it a pleasant and stimulating place to live, kerbs intact. The quay side is separated by work and visit. The range of mixed uses contributes considerable pedestrian movement bollards with chains linking them. Many of and an active ‘street life’, an important feature in the area’s character. Its riverside location the capstans used to tie up boats remain in and the increasing range of restaurants and similar establishments have also made it an place. The contemporary design of the new attraction for tourists and other visitors. dock gates, the sculptures and tree guards reinforce the prevailing character. Good examples of the reinstatement of original railings and a contemporary gateway supporting a globe can also be found in Dock Place. Throughout the area there are many early 20th century street lighting standards with decorative brackets.
22 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Special Characteristics and Key Elements
Topography and Setting
Grain and Density
Views
Streets
Development Pattern
Building Types
Peripheral street pattern Landmarks Views
Materials & Details Focal points
Landmarks Streetscape & Activity Activity
23 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Development pattern
Madeira forms a triangular area in the west Madeira retains the appearance of a planned extension with its focus on North Leith of the Conservation Area. The north side is Parish Church. Development, however, was sporadic and took place over much of the bounded by the bonded warehouses which 19th century. The formality of the street layout, the apparent symmetry of the Georgian run along the entire length of Commercial architecture and disposition of key buildings to create focal points and vistas all contribute Street; the west by the high stone wall of to the impression of this area as Leith’s own version of the New Town. Leith Fort, which runs down one side of Portland Street; and the east by the Water This formality is best demonstrated today by Madeira Street and Prince Regent Street, of Leith. terminated by North Leith Parish Church, in a layout which is an example of scaled down classically inspired urban design. The approach uphill from the Port of Leith to the Church is processional, the climb up the hill accentuating the separation from the water’s edge. Views The uniformity and formality of the layout along Prince Regent Street is softened in the The former Town Hall and main library surrounding streets by subtle variations in plot size and building design. The mix of plot are located at the start of Ferry Road widths, the variety of architects involved, the differing house types, larger front gardens indicating a historic change of focus for and an air of faded grandeur all help to reinforce a more informal and relaxed character. Leith’s institutions. The most impressive Ferry Road, the main access to Madeira, landmarks are the bonded warehouses is at this point more densely developed along Commercial Street, North Leith and provides a more urban environment Parish Church with its tall and elegant spire of tenements with a mix of commercial which acts as a focal point in views along uses at ground floor. The intersection with Prince Regent and most recently the new Great Junction Street is the setting for Scottish Executive Office at Victoria Quay. the Town Hall and main library built in the Much of the area is introspective with 1930s. Relief to this more urban character is planned or glimpsed views to the spire of provided by the Memorial Gardens along North Leith Parish Church, some of these North Junction Street, Keddie Gardens off views down lanes, through gates and Largo Place and the gardens with gable pends, to the cemetery and the rear of the wall mural at the corner of Ferry Road and Library create considerable interest and North Junction Street. charm. From the bridge over the Water of Leith, views open out back to the city with Calton Hill and the Castle visible either side of the warehouses along South Fort Street.
24 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Grain & Density Streets
A number of modern developments The majority of routes into the area link it back to the historical core of Leith. From the east, have not been sympathetic to the spatial four bridges cross the river and act as gateways into the area. From the west the descent structure. The housing along Portland and on the coast road, Lindsay Road, to the raised walkway and six storey mass of the bayed Commercial Streets is suburban in scale, tenement at the corner with North Junction Street creates a sense of passing through into although its backland location makes it less a more dense and urban form of development. Junctions are usually associated with a apparent. The tower block at Cooper Street sense of arrival at the centre of a settlement, but in Leith they are also in gateway locations. is set across the middle of the old street line. The most used approach today is along Ferry Road, where the boundary and development The west bank of the river as it approaches of the Conservation Area is conterminous with that of the Victoria Park Conservation Area. the Shore becomes an area of transition Ferry Road is one of the oldest routes leading to and from Leith and whilst sequences of from the mainly residential character of differing building heights are discernible along it, these appear to relate to the growth of Madeira. The mix of small industrial estates, formerly independent settlements rather than an intention to form gateways. infill ‘suburban’ housing developments and vacant sites, make the spatial structure less Ferry Road and Great Junction Street are bounded by a continuous intact and distinctive than that on the east building line, usually of four storey tenements with shops on the of the Shore. Many of the now subsidiary ground floor set to the heel of the pavement. Residential uses streets appear to have connected with predominate on the side streets. There is a continuity of three the water, suggesting a previous need for storey tenements along Madeira and Prince Regent Streets, but direct access routes convenient for earlier beyond the building sizes are more mixed. They range from modes of transport. Whilst the bonded single storey cottages, colony type flats, terraced villas to three warehouses along Commercial Street form and four storey tenements, at some corner locations with shops a barrier between Madeira and the port, projecting into the front garden space. Despite this mix they the connections between these routes are characterised by a terraced form, and a continuous street and the gaps between warehouses are still frontages only rarely broken by mews lanes or pends through apparent. to the rear. Their use of standard proportions, sash and case windows, a similar sand stone and slate roofing reinforces a sense of uniformity, even if less formal than the New Town.
25 Madeira - Leith’s ‘New Town’ Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Building Types Materials & Details
The north side of Commercial Street is The Madeira area retains a largely occupied almost entirely by former bonded homogeneous Georgian domestic warehouses on a continuous building line character, with stone buildings and right to the heel of the pavement. Their slate roofs predominating; some of blackened stone work, small window the Georgian buildings retain astragal openings, lack of access doors to the street, windows and doors with fanlights. long eaves and ridge lines are only relieved by changes in height and the occasional Streetscape & Activity rotunda providing light and ventilation to the floors below. Property on the other side The main routes in the area foresaw large of the street includes Leith’s original railway volumes of traffic and are significantly station and is more mixed in use and in broader and straighter than those of form. the early historic core. With tenements and warehouses directly onto the pavement, they have a robust and Landmarks practical character, sometimes marked Madeira Place, with a terrace of circa 1825 by the remains of railway or tram lines on its north side, leads to Madeira Street lined by the high Fort stone walls; which has North Leith Parish Church as its sturdy cast iron bollards, some of which centrepiece. The church, with its Greek have recently been identified as old Doric portico and classical steeple, is an canons, with gates and weighbridges important early example of the Greek at the accesses to the Port of Leith. Revival style by William Burn and provides Many of the roads are setted, the main a visual focus to this mainly residential area, exception being Prince Regent Street, which also includes major public buildings and stone garden walls are a feature of such as Leith Library and Town Hall. the area.
26 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Special Characteristics and Key Elements
Peripheral street pattern
Views Topography and Setting Focal points
Views Landmarks Quiet
Streets
Scale
Landmarks
Materials & Details
27 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting
Leith Links is located to the east of The present layout of the Links was the Conservation Area and is similar in established in the 1880s as part of the Leith character to those other parks and gardens Improvement Scheme. They form the most in Edinburgh, for example the Meadows extensive area of parkland in Leith covering and Pilrig Park, formed by the draining of an area of 48 acres (19.44 hectares), and former lochs. Development is confined to are bordered by John’s Place on the west the outer side of all the roads surrounding side, Seafield Place on the east and are it and while the sense of containment by dissected mid-way by Links Gardens. Their development is greater to the west nearly open expanse is in striking contrast to the all the edges are dominated by mature densely developed parts of Central Leith trees. The exception is that part of the north and areas south of the Links. They form east edge fringed by industrial premises. an attractive, large open space with tree- lined avenues and walkways and are used Leith Links forms the largest area of open for a whole range of recreational purposes. green space in the Conservation Area. The Facilities include putting and bowling Links once extended as far as Portobello and greens, cricket and football pitches and a are intimately associated with the history of children’s play area. Walkers, joggers and Leith. The two visible mounds on the Links, families also extensively use the Links for known as the Giant’s Brae and Lady Fyfe’s games and picnics. An allotment area is Brae, are reputedly old gun emplacements situated on the north side. dating back to the siege of Leith in 1560 when the English army bombarded the The Links have been designated as a French held citadel. It was also where the Millennium Park, a status that ensures sick were brought during the great plague that it will be protected for the future, of 1645. The Links have long provided a and the Artillery Mounds on the Links are recreational facility for Leith being the home Scheduled Ancient Monuments. The park of the Leith Races and in the 17th and 18th is also recognised as a neighbourhood centuries were recognised as Edinburgh’s nature area within the Nature Conservation premier place for golf. It is likely that the Strategy. golf course was an attraction that resulted in the construction of many fine houses close to the Links.
28 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Views
The focus created where the north ends of The prospect westwards from Hermitage Duncan Street and John’s Place lying behind Easter and Lochend Roads meet is marked Place has panoramic qualities with the Constitution Street reflect a more urban by Leith - St. Andrews Church and the broad expanse of the Links and, in the character with their mix of institutional and former Leith Academy. Views westwards background, an interesting sequence of educational uses, churches, warehouses along Vanburgh Place and through the contrasting but well-related buildings: and Georgian tenements. The small triangle Links focus on the church spire of Leith St. Leith Academy, the terraced houses in of park at Wellington / St Andrew’s Place is Andrews and to the bell tower of the former Wellington Place, massive warehouses developed on two sides and could have the Leith Academy Annex, which terminates with their regular pattern of windows, the appearance of a village green. the north end of Easter and Lochend Victorian Gothic Church of St James, the Around part of the north side, a harder Roads. In the distance the spire of St. James unified Georgian terrace in John’s Place character is maintained by Victorian Church, once at the heart of the town and and the late 18th century detached houses tenements. Smaller streets on to Link’s Place still a major landmark, soars above the tree in Queen Charlotte Street. create permeability. Villa development canopy. The tower of Kirkgate House looms is located to the south looking over the up to one side. longest side of the Links and gradually reduces in density as it extends away from the centre. 29 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Streets
The openness and greenery of the Links The western side of Leith Links is surrounded is in contrast to its approaches. From the by a continuous line of four storey buildings north east, it is completely obscured by of good architectural quality, which provide industrial premises and the access is via a strong edge to the park. The eastern end a sharp turn off from Seafield Road which of the Links tapers to a narrow point, lined then passes under a former railway bridge on the south by particularly fine two storey before trees and green are revealed. At Georgian terraces and villas set behind the corner of Seafield Road, in the midst of stone boundary walls, and on the north industrial and warehouse sheds, stands the by industrial buildings behind Salamander former Seafield Baths, now converted on Street. The sense of containment is the ground floor to a public house with flats enhanced by well-established mature tree above. Dating from 1810-13, the building planting. with its projecting doric porticos, linked The group of buildings on Claremont Park, above by shallow domed roofs forms one designed by Thomas Hamilton from 1827, is of the most graceful buildings turning a of outstanding architectural quality. Designs street corner in the whole city. vary but unity is provided by gatepiers with The approach from the west is through the shallow pyramidal tops and linking screen narrow confines of Duke Street. The Links walls separating the back and front gardens. provides a sense of release from Leith’s The terrace on East Hermitage Place, was densely tight urban core. The tapering form commenced by the Industrial Co-operative of the Links accentuates the perspective, Building Society in 1868, but not completed making it seem longer and even more until 1883. Robert Burn drew up the plan spacious. The terraced villas have short front for West Hermitage Place in 1800, and, in gardens which create a transition in planting 1825, Thomas Bonnar prepared elevations from the trees around the Links. There are for the unfeued plots. It contains a simple gate openings for pedestrian access and terrace dating from 1805, and later grander none of the gardens has been given over to houses incorporating rusticated stonework off street car parking. Continuity is given to and typical Georgian decoration. Vanburgh the varying plot sizes on the south side of Place, a unified terrace, was designed and the Links by small dwarf walls and railings. built by William Lamb from 1825.
30 Leith Links - Leith’s Early Suburb Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Scale Materials & Details
The earlier villas along Hermitage/ Unity is given to terraced and detached Vanburgh Terrace are two storey terraces villas by the continuity of small dwarf walls with the rhythm of their narrow plot widths with railings on the same line along the emphasised by repeating bay windows, heel of the pavement. This detail continues original attic dormers and chimney heads along the larger plots of the detached giving vitality to their long frontage. These and semi-detached villas where the street continue down to the entrance to Restalrig becomes Claremont Park. Here entrances Road and are followed by five tenemental are marked by repeating stone gate piers four storey blocks. From here to the end with shallow pyramidal caps and the of the Links, the villas are two storey semi- remains in most cases of cast iron brackets detached and detached. presumably for lights. These provide for vehicular access, and some villas have Landmarks screen walls separating front and back gardens. ‘The Buildings of Edinburgh’ cites At the east end of the Links are the gates, these villas between the tenements and railings and lodge to Seafield cemetery. red sandstone houses at the east end of Their potential to terminate the view at the Claremont Park as “ a line of villas whose end of Claremont Park is partially obscured concentrated architectural quality makes it by mature trees. However, this makes their among the best such group in Edinburgh.” discovery one of Leith’s surprises. Trees also obscure the former St. Andrews Place Church, now the Hindu temple. Its full height pedimented portico and giant ionic columns create a frontage of real presence.
31 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Special Characteristics and Key Elements Link street pattern Topography and Setting Views
Focal points Grain and Density Landmarks
Streets Activity
Landmarks
32 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Topography & Setting Streets
Leith Walk is one of the most important Leith Walk starts outside the Conservation routes in the city. Its continuity as it stretches Area. The steep slope and narrow street gradually downhill from the city centre is width down from the former North British so prominent that it is clearly visible from Hotel frames the dramatic view up to its many high vantage points around the city. landmark clock tower. To the north, from It links the old fortified town of Edinburgh the Picardy Place roundabout the views are and its sea port, as other European capital gradually restricted by the changing street cities are linked with their ports. width. From the roundabout and clock at the junction with London Road the street Grain & Density seems to pick up momentum for its journey northwards. The slope downhill and the Leith Walk is characterised by a mix of gentle curve draw the traveller along the buildings of widely varied design, use, street in the absence of any one particular quality and relationship to the street. focal point, until Kirkgate House becomes Victorian tenements set to the heel of the visible. Pilrig Church acts as a pivot to this pavement predominate, particularly on the curve helping to add to the momentum. east side, with shops and pubs at ground The Foot of the Walk with its set back to floor level. The west side is less co-ordinated the west gives the impression of another with Georgian development, tenements elongated square like that at Bernard Street, and industrial buildings. There are number and provides a sense of arrival. The gently of Georgian survivals, notably Smith’s curving form of the street is accentuated by Place, which was laid out as a cul-de-sac by the greenways, heavy white lines and raised 1814. It consists of a palace fronted block central reservation. Many of the side streets on its north side, later plainer tenements on retain their setts which reflect the different the south and an architecturally significant colours of sandstone in the buildings giving two storey villa, with a rusticated basement an ‘integrity’ to the townscape and helping and Venetian windows, terminating the to slow traffic. eastern end of the cul-de-sac. The building at 7 Steads Place is a former small country house dating from around 1750 and is one of the earliest on Leith Walk.
33 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal A hard continuous edge is given to the east Casselbank Street with its mix of Turkish and Leith Walk is a busy urban thoroughfare by almost uniform and repetitive tenements. gothic inspired architecture is set against and the main road linking the centre of These continue to form traditional more Georgian survivals. This demonstrates Edinburgh to the old burgh of Leith. It has a perimeter blocks around common greens the importance of the building line and the strongly directional character, rising gently down the side streets. These are given life perimeter block as organising elements from the Foot of the Walk, with linear vistas. by the local communities and the variety of in the development pattern and shows, It is terminated to the north by the tower goods and services on offer in ground floor in contrast to the formal and planned block of the New Kirkgate development premises. development of Smith’s Place, how an which contrasts with the visual scale of the informal and almost romantic architecture bay fronted Georgian building at the Foot The side streets to the east are mainly can also produce significant townscape. of the Walk which forms the foreground. residential, but several include churches or a school and just to the edge of the area are completely taken up by a park such as at Iona / Sloan Streets. One exception to this block form is Smith’s Place, the focus of which is the splendid decorative and pedimented villa by James Smith.
The development pattern, building types and uses on the west side are more diverse. Tenements are still the predominant form, but they show much greater variety in their design, heights, building lines, roofscapes and ages which in many cases look much earlier than that to the east. In places tenements are interspersed with town houses or smaller tenements well set back with front gardens to the street. Middlefield Casselbank Street is a small Georgian mansion which has development in its original front garden and the corner tenement into Pilrig Street is followed by Georgian villas gently stepping down the hill towards Pilrig Park. Smith’s Place
34 Leith Walk - Special Characteristics Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Landmarks
The Foot of Leith Walk, where four The spiky Gothic spire of Pilrig and Dalmeny roads and a pedestrian route meet, is an Street Church, approximately halfway down important arrival point in the Conservation Leith Walk, is a conspicuous and important Area and a lively commercial and social landmark at what was the old boundary focal point. The bronze statue of Queen between the City of Edinburgh and the Victoria, which stands in a central position former Burgh of Leith. A slight curve in the in the area of open space with a low bow street line at Pilrig prevents a continuous fronted Georgian block as a backdrop, is vista along the full length of the street. one of Leith’s principal landmarks.
Kirkgate House, despite its camouflaged outline, towers over the Foot of the Walk making it appear out of context with its surroundings. Pilrig Church with its cascading roofscapes to Pilrig Street and its spire and eastern facade which terminate Iona Street are as good as the set pieces in some of the city’s better known locations. Less dominant, but with the reflection of a different culture, the accentuated roofscapes and distantly familiar timber belfry of the Ukrainian Catholic Church gives added interest to Dalmeny Street.
35 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Conservation areas National policy
The Planning (Listed Buildings and The demolition of unlisted buildings The Scottish Historic Environment Policy Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997 considered to make a positive contribution (SHEP) is the strategic statement of national states that conservation areas "are areas to the area is only permitted in exceptional policy relating to the historic environment. of special architectural or historic interest, circumstances, and where the proposals the character or appearance of which it is meet certain criteria relating to condition, The Development Plan desirable to preserve or enhance". Local conservation deficit, adequacy of efforts The Edinburgh City Local Plan sets out authorities have a statutory duty to identify to retain the building and the relative policies and proposals for the development and designate such areas. public benefit of replacement proposals. and use of land in the City. The policies in Conservation area character appraisals are Special attention must be paid to the Plan are used to determine applications a material consideration when considering the character and appearance of the for development. applications for development within conservation area when planning controls conservation areas. are being exercised. Conservation area In broad summary, the key policy areas status brings a number of special controls: affecting the Leith Conservation Area are: Listed buildings • The demolition of unlisted buildings • Design of new development DES 1, 3, 5, requires conservation area consent. A significant proportion of buildings within 11, 12 Leith are listed for their special architectural • Listed buildings ENV 2-4 • Permitted development rights, which or historic interest and are protected allow improvements or alterations to the under the Planning (Listed Buildings and • Conservation areas ENV 5-6 external appearance of dwellinghouses Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997. • Historic gardens and designed and flatted dwellings, are removed. Listed building consent is required for landscapes ENV 7 the demolition of a listed building, or its • Works to trees are controlled (see Trees alteration or extension in any manner which • Archaeology ENV 8-9 for more detail). would affect its special character. • Trees ENV 12
• Natural heritage and nature conservation ENV 10-16 The proposed City of Edinburgh Local Development Plan (LDP) contains broadly similar policies and is a material consideration in current planning decisions.
36 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Planning guidance GPDO and Article 4 Directions
More detailed, subject-specific guidance is The Town and Country Planning (General 24 Development carried out on industrial set out in Planning Guidance documents. Permitted Development) (Scotland) land for the purposes of an industrial Those particularly relevant to the Leith Order 1992, amended 2012, (abbreviated process; Conservation Area are: to GPDO), restricts the types of 25 The creation of a hard surface within development which can be carried out in • Guidance for Householders the curtilage of an industrial building or a conservation area without the need for warehouse; • Guidance for Businesses planning permission. These include most alterations to the external appearance of • Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas 35 Development on operational land by dwellinghouses and flats. Development statutory undertakers in respect of • Developer contributions and affordable is not precluded, but such alterations will dock, pier, harbour, water transport, or housing require planning permission and special canal or inland navigation undertakings; • Edinburgh Design guidance attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. See Guidance on Householder 38 Development by statutory undertakers • Communications Infrastructure Permitted Development Rights 2012. for the purpose of water undertakings; • Street Design Guidance - draft to be Under Article 4 of the GPDO the planning 39 Development by public gas supplier; published authority can seek the approval of the and In addition, a number of statutory tools Scottish Ministers for Directions that restrict 40 Development by electricity statutory are available to assist development development rights further. The Directions undertaker. management within the conservation area: effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor developments in conservation areas which can cumulatively lead to the erosion of character and appearance. The Leith Conservation Area has Article 4 Directions covering the following classes of development:
7 The erection, construction, maintenance, improvement or alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other means of enclosure;
23 The extension or alteration of an industrial building or a warehouse;
37 Management - Legislation, Policies and Guidance Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Trees Landscape and Biodiversity
Trees within conservation areas are The Council has an obligation to take covered by the Town and Country Planning account of the impact of development (Scotland) Act 1997. This Act applies to on species protected by legislation and the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree international commitments. The Nature having a diameter exceeding 75mm at Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 places a point 1.5m above ground level. The a duty on all public bodies to further the planning authority must be given six weeks conservation of biodiversity as far as is notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop consistent with their functions. trees. Failure to give notice will render the person liable to the same penalties as for Landscape and Scenery contravention of a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). Local Nature Sites and Protected Species TPOs are used to secure the preservation of trees which are of significant stature, in Archaeology (historical map) sound condition, and prominently located to be of public amenity value. When Leith’s archaeology contains some of assessing contribution to amenity, the Scotland’s best urban archaeological importance of trees as wildlife habitats deposits and historic buildings. Recent will be taken into consideration. There is excavations within its historic core have a strong presumption against any form established evidence for a pre-burgh (pre of development or change of use of land 1128) settlement and for the development which is likely to damage or prejudice of the town and port from 12th century to the future long term existence of trees the present day. covered by a TPO. The removal of trees for The wealth of archaeological remains and arboricultural reasons will not imply that the artefacts has aided the understanding space created by their removal can be used of medieval domestic life. Due to Leith’s for development. role as a port and its importance in the development of trade, there is a vast legacy of industrial and maritime artefacts still visible including cranes, dry docks and warehouses.
38 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The following pressures are associated with these would benefit from improvement. missing architectural details (such as railings development proposals which conservation There are also few linkages available to the and decorative stone enhancement), area designation, together with the Council’s Port of Leith, and integration is essential poorly executed mortar repairs, leaking policies and guidance, are designed to between the port and the tenemental rainwater goods and structural movement. manage. The Edinburgh Design Guidance, heartland. The quality of alterations to shop fronts, Guidance for Householders and Listed extensions, dormers and other minor Public realm improvements should take Buildings and Conservation Areas explain alterations needs to be improved. account of a range of issues including; the Council’s approach to design in historic transport movement, pedestrian flow, street Important heritage features, within Leith, contexts. furniture, lighting and landscape quality. range in scale from small streetscape items such as bollards, rail lines and quay walls The main objective is to ensure that the Townscape to larger scale structures. These should be public realm is regarded and understood as The quality of the townscape is a critical integrated into developments providing a an historic element of the Leith Conservation factor in the enhancement of the valuable contribution to the identity and Area, and that any alterations to it take the conservation area. It is essential that quality of the public realm. historical and cultural significance of the the traditional townscape character is public realm into consideration. preserved and enhanced, and that a Activities and Uses high quality, sustainable and vibrant Leith is an intensively developed urban area environment is created for present and Architectural Character with a multiplicity of land use activities co- future communities. Respect for design Leith’s architectural character with both existing with the predominant residential should be demonstrated in the way new civic and commercial institutions reflects its use. It contains a full range of social, buildings are inserted into the framework former independence and maritime history. commercial and community facilities, of the existing townscape; on the one hand The historical and architectural importance and performs an important shopping and respecting its scale and form while on the of Leith is reflected in the concentration service role for people working and living other producing contemporary architecture of statutorily listed buildings in the area. in the area. of the highest quality. However, many historic buildings are no longer used for their original purpose, There has been a substantial reduction in Public Realm require extensive repairs and are vacant or Leith's traditional manufacturing and port under utilised. related industries around which its growth The public realm of Leith offers a wealth of was based. However, industry remains streets, squares and spaces, gardens and Generally, a low priority is given to ongoing an important land use in Leith, and is pedestrian spaces which act as a setting building maintenance and repair which is now spread across a more diverse base for the historic buildings and make an exacerbated due to the levels of multiple with increasing growth in the service and important contribution to the architectural ownership. More detailed historic building technology sectors. character of the area. However, many of issues include: stone work deterioration, 39 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Community
Residential uses, within mainly traditional Community regeneration involves building is recognised for its natural heritage tenement property and with retail uses on strong, safe and attractive places. The importance, in providing important open the ground floors, predominate. However, quality of houses, shops, commercial space and in the setting of the Conservation some recent development has seen the premises, community facilities, local Area. The extensive area of open space at erosion of such mixed uses and a creation parks, green spaces, play areas, roads and Leith Links the local parks and green space of single-use zones of shopping, business pavements directly impact on the image within the urban area are also important and housing. and sense of comfort and safety. for their seclusion, historic context, recreational and natural heritage value. The It is important to support the vitality and Recent, high value new development has existing tree groups and specimens are viability of Leith Walk, the Foot of the attracted people on higher than average particularly important to the character of Walk and Great Junction St as a retail incomes whose lifestyles are in contrast to the Conservation Area. and commercial centre. Environmental many local residents living in the tenemental improvements and repairs within and heartland. A critical concern for local people The Forth coastline is generally recognised around the shopping area are required and business is about “closing the gap” to for its natural heritage importance and to help create a safer and more attractive ensure that the whole community benefits, in many parts provides important open shopping environment. from increased investment, in a sustainable space. The Port of Leith separates the and balanced way. In particular, there is Conservation Area from a direct relationship High traffic volumes threaten the character evidence through public consultations of with the estuary. The outer shoreline is of the Conservation Area particularly of the priority need to ensure a continuing protected as both an Urban Wildlife Site in Bernard Street, Commercial Street, Great sense of place and belonging, one in Edinburgh and as a Site of Special Scientific Junction Street and Ferry Road. New which old traditions remain alongside the Interest (SSSI) nationally. Special Protection development should incorporate safe new in a mixed, balanced and sustainable Area (SPA) and Ramsar status, that give it access by a range of means of transport community. European/ International importance for its options. The design of development can wintering bird populations and wetlands, assist in altering the relative attractiveness reinforce the SSSI designation. Under this of different transport modes and in Natural Heritage designation proposals are being drawn up encouraging means of access other than The Water of Leith Walkway and Corridor for the creation of a tern colony within the by private car. In considering the design is central to the Conservation Area western harbour area. of development, priority should be and important for its natural heritage, given to providing convenient access for open space and recreational value. It is pedestrians and cyclists. The intrusive effect designated as an Urban Wildlife Site and of car parking should also be sensitively is an important habitat for a wide range of controlled. flora and fauna. The Firth of Forth coastline
40 Management - Pressures and Sensitivities Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Port of Leith
Forth Ports is the statutory Harbour Forth Ports Ltd will continue to function as a The Port of Leith is the largest impounded Authority for the Firth of Forth and performs port operation infrastructure organisation. deepwater port in Scotland of which a number of functions as prescribed by The Port requires flexibility to deliver the Imperial Dock is a key infrastructure asset. legislation including overseeing the safety best service it can for its customers. This This allows it to handle vessels which cannot of navigation and licensing of all works relates to both land usage as well as cargo be handled elsewhere within the country between the tidal limits inland and the handling services. The port estate is well and underlines how important the Port is at mouth of the Firth. utilised and despite some perceptions that a national level. It accommodates and can there are large areas of land lying empty, handle a broad range of requirements. A The Port of Leith has been in existence this is not the case. Land within the Port will key strength is its flexibility, which allows it since the 14th Century and Leith has been continue to be fully utilised for port use. to respond to a range of markets. shaped and grown up around the Port, These areas include the main port estate, helping to give it the history and character Britannia Quay and Seafield. All these areas it has today. The Port has had to adapt over are important to the port operation and will years to the changing economy and has continue to remain in industrial use. been successful in doing this and making it a key asset for both Edinburgh and Forth Over recent years the Port of Leith has Ports. experienced an increase in activity, with 2014 being recorded as its most successful Forth Ports Limited has a clear strategy year in recent times. The Port hosts some to continue as an infrastructure business 500-600 vessel calls per year and handles and has stated its commitment to the around 1 million tonnes of cargo. The Port continued operation of the Port of Leith of Leith is responsible for 533 (full time as a port infrastructure operation, utilising equivalent) jobs and supports the provision its operational estate in its entirety for port of local goods and services. In addition, operational uses. The City of Edinburgh the Port of Leith provides ‘free’ berth to Council and Forth Ports Ltd are committed the Royal Yacht Britannia. Through port to working in partnership. This approach enabled projects it generates in the region will enable the economic benefits to be of £133M GVA per annum and 1,556 (full realised from the Port of Leith’s unique time equivalent) jobs. assets supporting the local Leith, wider City The Port of Leith operational area economies and beyond.
41 Management - Opportunities for Planning Action Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal The Council recognises that the Leith • To require the highest standards of Conservation Area is a living environment materials and workmanship for all works that will continue to adapt and develop. associated with the built heritage. Conservation area status does not mean a • Materials and techniques should respect prohibition on development. The Council traditional practice. will carefully manage change to ensure that the character and appearance of conservation areas are safeguarded and enhanced. The following are the main aims within the conservation area:
• To ensure that the historic and architectural character of listed buildings in the Leith Conservation Area is maintained, there is a presumption against demolition. Alterations should not harm the elements that contribute to the special interest of the building and its setting.
• To promote new high quality architecture which is sympathetic to the historic character, reflects and interprets the particular qualities of its surroundings, and responds to and reinforces the distinctive patterns of development, townscape, landscape, scale, materials and quality in the Leith Conservation Area.
• To ensure that historic street patterns, open spaces, associated landscaping and materials are maintained, protected and enhanced, and that any alterations give due consideration to the historical and cultural significance of the public
realm. 42 Management - Leith Inner Harbour Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
The ancient Port of Leith and in particular The closure of the tidal flow of the Water of the Old Inner Harbour, dating from 1143 Leith in 1968 has contributed significantly was the most significant harbour in Scotland to silting of the harbour basins with the for centuries. The original layout of the four consequent increased risk of flooding, Inner Harbour basins remains unchanged, which has noticeably risen in recent years. other than the introduction or replacement Silting and the construction of bridges of bridges and the infilling of associated mean that the basins are no longer dry docks, some of which are designated navigable - existing barges have been Ancient Monuments. While a number of brought in by crane. These, together buildings that faced onto the basins have with the adjacent overgrown trees and been demolished a significant number of uncontrolled parking, block the view of the historically important properties remain, water and restrict public use of the harbour many listed and in good condition. side along the length of the North Shore, much to the detriment of the many quality The regeneration of the area, further restaurants opposite. There are, therefore, enhanced by the recent improvements concerns that the character and amenity of carried out on the south Shore, has the area will be adversely affected further reinforced the Inner Harbour basins as the by any increase in the number of fixed focus of this part of central Leith. barges in the Inner Harbour basins or other The Water of Leith is an important corridor inappropriate developments. for wildlife and supports a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The Inner Harbour basins are home to many water birds and the river otters are regular visitors to the basins.
43 Sources Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal Buildings of Scotland: Edinburgh. J. Gifford, C. McWilliam & D. Walker, Penguin, 1984.
Leith Lives-Memories at Work. Photographs and reminiscences collected and published by the Leith Oral History Project, 1985.
Leith Today. Ramsay Head Press, Edinburgh, 1974.
Old Leith at Leisure. J. S. Marshall, Edina Press, Edinburgh, 1976.
Old and New Statistical Accounts of Scotland: Edinburgh and Leith entries, 1791-99 & 1845.
The Life and Times of Leith. J. S. Marshall, John Donald, Edinburgh, 1985.
The Sculptured Stones of Leith. D. H. Robertson, Reid & Sons, Leith, 1851.
The Story of Leith. J. Russell, London, 1925.
The Water of Leith. Ed. S. Jamieson, The Water of Leith Project Group, 1984.
Traditions of Trinity and Leith. J. M. Wallace, John Donald, Edinburgh. 1985
44 Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
Leith Conservation Area Character Appraisal
For further information please contact: [email protected]
0131 529 4238
45 Morningside Conservation area CharaCter appraisal The Morningside Conservation Area Character Appraisal was approved by the Planning Committee on 4th October 2001
Some of the maps in the document have been reproduced from the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office
© Crown Copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. OS License No. LA09027L.
ISBN 1 85191 081 6 Morningside C onservation A r e a C h a r a c t e r A p p r a i s a l
Contents
Introduction...... 2 Conservation Areas...... 2 Character Appraisals...... 2 Morningside Conservation Area...... 3 Conservation Area Boundary...... 3
Historical Origins and Development...... 4
Analysis And Essential Character...... 7 Spatial Structure...... 7 Townscape...... 9 Vistas and View Map...... 10 Spatial Structure Map...... 11 Essential Character:Spatial Structure & Townscape...... 12 Architectural Character...... 13 Essential Character:Architectural Character...... 15 Activities and Uses...... 15 Essential Character:Activities &Uses...... 15 Natural Heritage...... 16 Essential Character:Natural Heritage...... 17 Opportunities for Enhancement...... 17 Role of the Public...... 18 Boundary Changes...... 18
General Information...... 19 Statutory Policies relating to Morningside...... 19 Supplementary Guidance...... 19 Implications of Conservation Area Status...... 20
References...... 22
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Introduction
Conservation Areas
Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as “... areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status There are currently 38 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.
Character Appraisal
The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and the Scottish Executive are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas, and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced.
A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of defining the key elements that contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area.
It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The Character Appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for significant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identified in this document.
NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also specifies that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be confirmed unless a character appraisal is in place.
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Morningside Conservation Area
The Morningside Conservation Area lies to the south of The Grange Conservation Area and was originally designated in 1996.
The conservation area is situated some 4kms from the City centre and lies within the boundaries of Wards 46 and 51.
The southern boundary of the conservation area runs along the rear of the properties on the south side of Braidburn Terrace and Hermitage Drive, overlooking the Braid Burn and the Hermitage of Braid. The eastern boundary follows Midmar Drive to the north, overlooking the allotments on the slope of Blackford Hill. The boundary then crosses Cluny gardens and Cluny Avenue before following the boundary of the Astley Ainslie Hospital up to Canaan Lane. At this point the boundary turns westwards before turning south to Jordan Lane, running a short distance along the Lane before turning south again to run along the rear of the properties on Nile Grove, to meet up with Morningside Road. The boundary then runs southwards down Morningside and Comiston Roads before rejoining Braidburn Terrace.
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Historical Origins and Development
The Morningside Conservation Area partly covers an area that was formerly known as the Burgh Muir. This was common ground gifted to the City of Edinburgh by David 1 in the first half of the 12th century. At this time the dense forest of Drumselch lay to the south of the City and it was the major part of this forest that David gifted to the City. The forest stretched from the Meadows southwards to the lower slopes of the Blackford and Braid Hills.
The Burgh Muir stretched from Bruntsfield Place and Morningside Road on the west to Dalkeith Road on the east. The southern boundary was formed by the Pow, or Jordan Burn, flowing through the lowest point of Morningside Road.
Braid, lying to the south of Morningside, and therefore lying outside the Burgh Muir, was owned in the 12th Century by Sir Henry de Brade, sheriff of Edinburgh. His surname derives from the name of his Scottish estate, which is Gaelic for a throat, or gorge.
In 1585, Edinburgh was decimated by the plague. The authorities did everything possible to prevent the spread of the disease and make provision for the victims. This proved extremely costly and took the municipal treasury to the point of bankruptcy. In overcoming this financial disaster, the Town Council decided in 1586 to feu out the Wester Burgh Muir. From this decision the districts of Greenhill, Morningside, east Morningside and Canaan slowly emerged.
Morningside, located on the old road from Edinburgh to Biggar, became an agricultural village serving the population of the many neighbouring farms and estates. During the 1700s the village was represented by only a handful of houses. By 1880, the situation was beginning to change. Grant, in “Old and New Edinburgh” stated that Morningside was “once a secluded village, consisting of little more than a row of thatched cottages, a line of trees, and a blacksmith’s forge, from which it gradually grew to become an agreeable environ and summer resort of the citizens, with the fame of being the “Montpelier” of the east of Scotland.”
The gradual transformation of village to suburb was encouraged by the building of a proliferation of villas and mansions which increased the population dramatically. The Edinburgh Transport Act of 1871 permitted the Local Authority to construct, or own a tramway system, but the operation of the system was leased to private operators. This new emerging suburb in Morningside was
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one of the first routes to be served with a tram service running from Register House, at the east end of Princes Street, to Morningside.
However, by far the biggest spur to new development was the opening, in 1885, of the Edinburgh Suburban and South Side Junction Railway with a station and goods yard located on Maxwell Street. Much of Tram on Morningside Road the planning of this successful suburban line was undertaken by Thomas Bouch, designer of the ill fated Tay rail bridge.
The construction of the suburban rail line encouraged increasing numbers of people to take up residence in Morningside and Braid. This was particularly evident in the 1930s when railway transport was at its peak, with this line providing a regular service to Waverley Station. The line was closed to passenger traffic in 1962 under the cuts implemented by Beeching.
For many centuries, Morningside and Braid road formed the main route linking Edinburgh to Biggar until 1830, when a new length of turnpike road, known as Comiston Road, was built to avoid the steep braes of Braid Road. Initially, with the coming of the railway in 1885, farm produce and livestock was brought down this road to the Maxwell Street goods yard for onward transmission to the City. However, by 1890s the northern end of Comiston Road, formerly known as Little Egypt, was being developed for housing. This farm with its biblical name, had given rise to a number of local associated names, such as Jordan, Canaan and Nile. The Braid Estate, owned by the Gordon family, was feued by Sir Rowand Anderson, with Nile Grove being the first street to be developed in 1881. Subsequent streets were named for Braid or other estates owned by the Gordon family. During the 1880s, Cluny Avenue and Gardens, built in 1884 and 1885 respectively, were followed by Cluny Drive, Terrace and Place in the 1890s. From 1900 onwards, Corrennie Gardens and Drive were built, closely followed by a series of streets beginning with Midmar.
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By 1910, the Braid Estate, feued by R. Rowand Anderson, had been fully developed up to Blackford Hill, which had been purchased by the Town Council in 1888 to provide the first municipal golf course in Scotland. In 1890, the Town Council sold three and a half acres on Blackford Observatory the east slope of Blackford Hill to the R. Rowand Anderson Government Office of Works to build an observatory.
Hermitage of Braid and its estate forms the southern boundary of the conservation area and provides an important recreation area for the City. The house was designed by Robert Burn. Completed in 1785, it has mock battlements and corner turrets in memory of Braid Castle. In 1937, the estate of 42 acres, including the Hermitage, lodge and policies, with dell and valley, was purchased by John McDougal for £11,000. In 1938, John McDougal presented these properties to Magistrates of Edinburgh to be used as a public park, or recreation ground for the benefit of the citizens of Edinburgh.
Hermitage Lodge
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Analysis and Essential Character
Spatial Structure The topography of the conservation area, sitting across a valley running west to east, originally formed by the Pow or Jordan Burn, divides the area into two distinct areas. This valley is now occupied by the south suburban rail line which carries freight only. Morningside Road, which forms the western boundary of the conservation area, runs down the south facing slope to meet the clock and the green “square” sitting at the foot of the road, in front of Morningside Parish Church. This south facing slope forms part of the heart of the original Morningside village. South Suburban Rail `Line Once the rail line is crossed, Morningside Road changes to become Comiston Road which skirts the Green Square north west facing slope of the Braid Hills. The original main route of Braid Road separates off from Comiston Road at its southern end and climbs the steep north facing slope of the Braids. This southern junction forms the collection point for four separate roads.
Comiston and Morningside Roads form one of the major arterial routes from Edinburgh to the south west. Only one other road runs right through, but not beyond the conservation area on a north south axis, this being Woodburn Terrace, changing to Braid Avenue once the railway is crossed to the south.
The northern boundary of the conservation area zig zags between Jordan Lane and Canaan Lane. In this small area there is a small eclectic mix of buildings and periods, ranging over vernacular single storey buildings, to Georgian detached buildings and Victorian tenements. Part of this northern boundary is shared with the Grange Conservation Area at Astley Ainslie Hospital.
South of this enclave, the conservation area is characterised by solid, substantial, Victorian residential properties ranging over terraces, semi detached and detached houses, with tenements occurring on Comiston Road.
The southern boundary is formed by the rear gardens of Hermitage Drive which overlook the woodland park of Hermitage of Braid. Hermitage Drive forms a flat ridge line before descending the steep slopes of Hermitage of Braid. The eastern boundary is formed by Midmar Drive which is a single sided street overlooking extensive allotments, which in turn are overlooked by the mass of Blackford Hill lying to the east.
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The principal features of the urban fabric are characterised by a loose grid layout dividing the area into unequal rectangular perimeter blocks, which are lined by semi detached and detached houses to the east of Braid Road. The area from Braid Road to Comiston Road forms a long triangle with five separate roads penetrating between the two roads, giving good permeability. The effect of this is to create irregularly shaped perimeter blocks upto Braidburn Terrace. Mature Tree With the exception of Comiston Road, the overall density of the conservation area is low with individual front and rear gardens to the majority of the buildings within the conservation area. Generally, there are smaller gardens to the front and extensive gardens to the rear, both containing mature trees. The gardens are well tended and are particularly important in terms of greening the area and offering a mature landscape setting. Most gardens are defined by low stone walls and hedging.
There are two recent developments, one being a brick built terrace on Midmar Drive and the other being an extensive block of flats turning the corner of Braid Avenue and Hermitage Drive. The latter site was developed after the original single villa was burnt down and now contains two large blocks of flats. Both of these developments respect the
Development at Braid Avenue scale and general massing of the area. Their use of render with red pre-cast concrete margins to windows in one case and particularly brick in the other, do not reflect the materials characteristic of the area.
Modern Terrace at Midmar Drive
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Townscape The primary north – south route through the area is Morningside Road, which acts as the main shopping street for the area. Once the railway line is crossed, the principal road becomes Comiston Road. The original main route of Braid Road separates off from Comiston Road at its southern end, rejoining Comiston Road at Buckstone.
The principal east – west through route is Cluny Gardens, which begins at the junction where Comiston and Braid roads separate. Cluny Gardens skirts round the northern foot of Blackford Hill before connecting with Mayfield.
Although the area has a diverse mix of styles and ages, the predominant Cluny Gardens character is made up of large Victorian houses sitting in large gardens, which give an air of spaciousness. These properties vary in height from three to three and half storeys and are constructed of stone with slated roofs. Morningside and Comiston Roads evidence a more traditional tenemental form. On Comiston Road, tenements are set back from the heel of the pavement with small front gardens. At the points where shops and offices occur, the front garden the building line of the tenement is carried through producing a wider pavement in front of the shops. Four churches feature in the area acting as focal points. Victorian Villa
Views through the conservation area are important. Travelling from south to north views are given along streets towards Blackford Hill and the Braids giving an indication of wilderness areas. In the direction south to north, the skyline of Edinburgh is glimpsed, particularly from the ridge formed by Hermitage Drive, where the streets leading north are subtly aligned on the castle by slightly skewing Tenement on Comiston Rd the street blocks. A particularly fine townscape vista is offered down Braid Avenue. A spectacular panoramic view is offered at the one sided Midmar Drive which immediately overlooks popular allotment gardens, with Blackford Hill in the immediate background and the City skyline to the north.
View to Blackford Hill
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Essential Character: Spatial Structure and Townscape
• The principal feature of the urban fabric is a subtle Victorian grid structure responding to the topography by setting up views to the castle and dividing the area into unequally sized rectangular perimeter blocks.
• Perimeter blocks are surrounded by substantial Victorian housing composed of individual, semi detached and terraced housing that exhibit continuity through their uniform heights, massing and use of stone and slated roofs.
• Gardens with mature trees predominate throughout the area, having a strong greening affect throughout the area.
• Northern views along streets to Blackford Hill and the Braids and southern views back to the City skyline are important.
View down Braid Road
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Architectural Character
The conservation area contains a total of 44 Listed Items. The architectural character is largely composed of Victorian and Edwardian villas and terraces which form boundaries to extensive blocks of private open space. The villa streets are complemented by the profusion of mature trees, extensive garden settings, stone boundary walls and spacious roads. The villas are in variety of architectural styles, unified by the use of local building materials. The northern part of the area within Jordan and Canaan Lanes contains a more varied architectural mix of buildings ranging over traditional village dwellings, Georgian villas and tenements.
The first phase of the development of the Braid estate from 1880 had Rowand Anderson and George Washington Browne as the main architects. Rowand Anderson remained the feuing architect of the extended scheme south of the railway line until the early 1900s.
Four churches provide focal points in the conservation area:
• The octagonal, Italianate Braid Church 1886 by George Washington Browne, lying on the corner of Hermitage Terrace and Nile Grove, forms part of the first phase of the Braid Estate, overlooking the open space fronting Hermitage Terrace. Braid Church • Cluny Parish Church 1889, is a red sandstone church lying on the grassy terraced corner of Braid Road and Cluny Gardens by Hippolyte J. Blanc in 1889. A tower at the north west corner was proposed, but never built.
• Cluny Church Centre 1890, on the corner of Cluny Drive and Cluny Parish Church Braid Road is a confident, red sandstone, mixed gothic building by Rowand Anderson. Its square north west tower becomes more elaborate in stages. In the mid 1970s the interior was divided to form small rooms and offices on the ground floor.
• Greenbank Church, on the corner of Braidburn Terrace and Comiston Road, is a bland building built in the Gothic manner with red sanstone margins. Built in 1927, it was designed by A. Lorne Campbell. The hall to the east was built in 1900 and used as a temporary church until the main building was erected in 1927. More recently, a new entrance from Braidburn Terrace and a new multi purpose hall, by the Lee Boyd partnership, were erected in 2000. Cluny Church Centre
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Comiston Road starts with a giant red sandstone Renaissance block of 1889, including the richly sculpted, formerly named, Hermitage Bar, now called Morning Glory, all sitting at the southern join with Braid Road. Braid Crescent lying between Comiston and Braid Roads has the grandest two storey bay windows in Edinburgh, each crowned with an octagonal lead dome. The long airy roads of the Braid Estate, to the east, were controlled in design terms by the feuing architect Rowand Anderson, with the tree lined, Braid Avenue, running north south, being the grandest road in Braid Crescent Morning Glory the estate.
Nile Grove and Hermitage Terrace formed part of the development of the Braid Estate from 1880 onwards, with Wardrop Anderson and George Washington Browne as the main architects. The Braid Estate was Edinburgh’s answer to Bedford Park in London. Browne who had returned from London in 1883, after working on the Queen Anne development of Kensington Court, brought the Queen Anne style to the Braid Estate and with Rowand Anderson developed its Scottish, masonry based variant.
The houses on Cluny Place and Cluny Avenue formed a later phase (mid 1890s)in the development of the Braid Estate. Designed by Rowand Anderson, the Queen Anne style made way to a more wholehearted adoption of what became “stockbroker tudor”.
Queen Anne Style at Cluny Avenue
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Essential Character: Architectural Character
• High quality stone built architecture of restricted height, generous scale and fine proportions.
• The significant degree of unity resulting from the predominant use of traditional building materials: local sandstone for buildings and boundary walls and Scots slate for roofs.
Activities and Uses
Residential uses predominate throughout the area, producing a peaceful Victorian environment of high quality and high amenity. Intermixed in this quiet suburb there are four churches and a residential care home on Cluny Drive. Reidential Care Home This is contrasted with Morningside Road and Comiston Road, the main through route which is a place of activity in terms of social and commercial activities. Morningside Road in particular is the main shopping street for the area containing a full range of shops and services. Comiston Road has less activity, which begins to fall off towards the south.
Shop on Morningside Rd
Essential Character: Activities & Uses
• The contrast between activity on Morningside and Comiston Roads and the general tranquillity in the residential hinterland of the conservation area.
• The peaceful Victorian environment of high quality and high amenity residential uses.
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Natural Heritage
Within the boundaries of the conservation area, the environment is predominantly residential and there are very few areas of public open space. Only two areas exist within the conservation area and these consist of; the small narrow area of grassed and railed open space sitting in front of Hermitage Terrace, which contains a number of mature trees; and the Braid Estate Recreation Ground consisting of tennis courts and a bowling club, sitting at the northern foot of Midmar Drive and spanning through to Cluny Tennis Courts Gardens.
Despite this lack of public open space within the conservation area, the predominant townscape nature of substantial Victorian properties with their associated large gardens, containing many mature trees, provides an environment of lush greenery. These private gardens are particularly important in providing suitable habitats for bird and wildlife.
It is therefore important that where mature trees are removed due Green Square at Hermitage Terrace to disease, or old age, that they are replaced, not only to maintain the green character of the area, but also to sustain wildlife.
Lying immediately outwith the boundaries of the conservation area, to the east, is Blackford Hill which provides a visually dominant backcloth from many points within the area. Hermitage of Braid lies immediately to the south of the conservation area and while this area is not as visually prominent, it is of equal importance in terms of providing easily accessible recreational open space. House on Braid Avenue Both Blackford Hill and Hermitage of Braid form part of the Green belt, part of an extensive green wedge stretching into the countryside well beyond the city boundary to the south. They are also both classed as Areas of Great Landscape Value and Wildlife Sites, whilst also being classed as a Local Nature Reserve.
Blackford Hill is geomorphically important and is covered by an SSSI designation due to the presence of Agassiz rock, named after the Swiss geologist Louis Agassiz who determined in 1840 Hermitage of Braid that the grooves in the rock were the result of glacial action. This
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discovery was not only important in establishing an understanding the nature of glacial action generally, but also in understanding how the Hermitage valley and Blackford Hill had been formed. The allotments butting against Midmar Drive are a popular facility and extensively used. These too are covered by the Green Belt and AGLV designations. Agassiz Rock
Essential Character: Natural Heritage
• The predominance of large gardens with mature trees, being important in terms of their townscape value and their provision of a habitat for wildlife. It is important that where mature trees are removed then they should be replaced.
• The dominating nature of Blackford Hill providing significant views.
• The easy public access to Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill which both provide an important natural, recreational facility.
Opportunities for Enhancement The scale, design and materials of new developments should reinforce and protect those features that give the conservation area its special character. Any development should take into consideration the spatial pattern, scale, proportions and design of traditional properties.
Any development, either within or outside the conservation area, should be restricted in height and scale in order to protect the key views of the conservation area. New development should protect the setting of individual buildings and Railings at Jordan Lane the historic environment as a whole. Opportunities for introducing further trees and replacing trees that are lost to age should be considered throughout the area.
Traditional materials should be used in repair and new build. Modern substitutes generally fail to respect the character of the area. The stone boundary walls and railings are a key feature within the conservation area, and they should be repaired and reinstated where appropriate. Original architectural features should be preserved wherever possible. Wall Repairs
The grassed area in front of Hermitage Terrace offers an opportunity for enhancement in terms of railing reinstatement and encouraging greater public use.
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Role of the Public It is essential that property owners accept their maintenance responsibilities. The emphasis should be on the repair rather than replacement of original features, as these contribute to the conservation area’s character as a whole. Alterations or additions should be sympathetic to the original style and of an appropriate scale.
Boundary Changes Boundary changes are proposed at the northern and western edges. It is proposed that the boundary to the north, which zigzags between Jordan Lane and Canaan Lane, moves to the rear of the tenements lining Morningside Road up to and including the tenements on the southern corner of Morningside Park. It is also proposed that the western boundary runs behind the tenements lining the western side of Morningside Road and Comiston Road. At present, the boundary runs down the middle of this main thorough fare where the buildings on the east side, which are within the conservation area, are largely mirrored by similar buildings on the western side. This thorough fare also provides the principal shopping street for the conservation area.
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General Information
Statutory Policies The Morningside Conservation Area is contained within The Central Edinburgh Local Plan adopted by the Council in 1997, which includes the conservation area within a broad ‘Housing and Compatible Uses’ or ‘Urban Area’ policy allocation, in which the primary concern is to safeguard existing residential character and amenities. Consequently, effect on residential amenity will be the determining consideration for all development proposals, including changes of use.
The Local Plan contains policy advice on a range of matters. In relation to proposals within the conservation area, for example, development will only be allowed where all features that contribute to the special character and appearance of the area are retained. Development proposals in the conservation area are required to take into account the area’s special interest and how its character and appearance may be preserved or enhanced.
Blackford Hill and Hermitage of Braid, which both lie adjacent to the conservation area boundaries, are contained in the South East Local Plan adopted by the Council in 2005 which contains policies relating to their significance in terms of policies relating to:
• The Green Belt.
• An area of Great Landscape Value.
• A Wildlife Site.
• A Site of Special ScientificValue.
Supplementary Guidelines The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Quality Handbook.
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Implications of Conservation Area Status
Designation as a conservation area has the following implications:
• Permitted development rights under the General Development Order are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses which may be erected without consent is also restricted to 16m2 and there are additional control over satellite dishes.
• Under Article 4 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, the planning authority can seek approval of the Scottish Executive for Directions that restrict permitted development rights. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor alterations to buildings in conservation areas that can cumulatively lead to erosion of character and appearance. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. The Morningside Conservation Area is currently covered by the full range of Article 4 Directions:
Class 1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration to a dwelling house
Class 3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house
Class 6 installation, alteration or replacement of a satellite dish
Class 7 construction or alteration of gates, fences, walls or other means of enclosure
Class 30/33 local authority development
Class 38 water undertakings
Class 39 development by public gas supplier
Class 40 development by electricity statutory undertaker
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• Special attention must be paid to the character and appearance of the conservation area when planning controls are being exercised. Most applications for planning permission for alterations will, therefore, be advertised for public comment and any views expressed must be taken into account when making a decision on the application.
• Buildings which are not statutorily listed can normally be demolished without approval under the Planning Regulations. Within conservation areas the demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.
• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Council’s policy.
• Trees within conservation areas area covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six weeks notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice render the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.
• Grants may be available towards the repair or restoration of historic buildings. The Council runs a conservation grant scheme, however, such grants are normally dependent on comprehensive repair and restoration of original features and priority is given to tenemental housing and prominent buildings.
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References
• The Place Names of Edinburgh, Stuart Harris, Steve Savage publisher, 2002. • Historic South Edinburgh Vol 1, Charles J. Smith, Charles Skilton publisher, 1978. • Historic South Edinburgh Vol 2, Charles J. Smith, Charles Skilton publisher,1979. • Villages of Edinburgh Vol 2, an illustrated guide, Malcolm Cant, Malcolm Cant Publications, 1999. • Buildings of Scotland; Edinburgh, Gifford, McWilliam, Walker; Penguin; 1991.
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You can get this document on tape, in Braille,large print and various computer formats if you ask us. Please contact Interpretation and Translation Service (ITS) on 0131 242 8181 and quote reference number 08596. ITS can also give information on community language translations. You can get more copies of this document by calling City Development enquiries on 0131 529 3900.
David Anderson Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council Waverley Court 4 East Market Street Edinburgh EH8 8BG
Produced by the City Development Department : Planning & Strategy RATHO CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL THE RATHO CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL WAS APPROVED BY THE PLANNING COMMITTEE ON 21 NOVEMBER 2000
Some of the maps in the document have been reproduced from the Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office
© Crown Copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown Copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. OS License No. LA09027L. R ATHO CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION...... 4 Conservation Areas ...... 4 Character Appraisals...... 4 Ratho Conservation Area ...... 5
BOUNDARY OF RATHO CONSERVATION AREA ...... 6
HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT ...... 8 Origins ...... 8 Development of the Village ...... 9
ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER ...... 10 Overview ...... 10 Spatial Structure (diagram) ...... 10 Townscape (diagram) ...... 12 Approaches ...... 13 Streetscape ...... 14 Architectural Character ...... 18 Activities and Uses...... 22 Natural Heritage ...... 23
OPPORTUNITIES FOR ENHANCEMENT ...... 24 Boundaries...... 25 Role of the Public ...... 25
GENERAL INFORMATION ...... 26 Statutory Policies ...... 26 Supplementary Guidelines ...... 27 Implications of Conservation Area Status...... 28 R ATHO CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL
INTRODUCTION
Conservation Areas
Section 61 of the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) (Scotland) Act 1997, describes conservation areas as “...areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance”. The Act makes provision for the designation of conservation areas as distinct from individual buildings, and planning authorities are required to determine which parts of their areas merit conservation area status
There are currently 38 conservation areas in Edinburgh, including city centre areas, Victorian suburbs and former villages. Each conservation area has its own unique character and appearance.
Character Appraisals
The protection of an area does not end with conservation area designation; rather designation demonstrates a commitment to positive action for the safeguarding and enhancement of character and appearance. The planning authority and the Scottish Executive are obliged to protect conservation areas from development that would adversely affect their special character. It is, therefore, important that both the authorities and other groups who have an interest in conservation areas and residents are aware of those elements that must be preserved or enhanced.
A Character Appraisal is seen as the best method of defining the key elements that contribute to the special historic and architectural character of an area. It is intended that Character Appraisals will guide the local planning authority in making planning decisions and, where opportunities arise, preparing enhancement proposals. The Character Appraisal will be a material consideration when considering applications for development within the conservation area and applications for significant new developments should be accompanied by a contextual analysis that demonstrates how the proposals take account of the essential character of the area as identified in this document.
NPPG 18: Planning and the Historic Environment states that Conservation Area Character Appraisals should be prepared when reconsidering existing conservation area designations, promoting further designations or formulating enhancement schemes. The NPPG also specifies that Article 4 Direction Orders will not be confirmed unless a Character Appraisal is in place.
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Ratho Conservation Area
Midlothian County Council originally designated the Ratho Conservation Area on 13th July 1971. After local government reorganisation, in May 1975, Ratho was included within the boundary of Edinburgh District Council. The Conservation Area boundary was revised on 29th May 1987 to delete an area of land to the south-west of the canal, which includes new housing, the new primary school and the community centre. The Conservation Area is classified as ‘Outstanding’ for grant purposes by Historic Scotland. The 1991 Census indicates that Ratho has a population of 2,157.
The Conservation Area is approximately 9 miles west of Edinburgh city centre, located between the M8 motorway and A71, with the Pentland Hills lying directly to the south. It is surrounded by undulating agricultural land, much of which to the south and east forms part of Edinburgh’s Green Belt. The former Ratho and Craigpark Quarries abut the settlement to the west.
The Conservation Area straddles the Union Canal, taking in two east-west running ridges occupied by Ratho Hall and St Mary’s Church in the north and the historic village core to the south of the canal. The boundary to the north follows the rear of the cottages on Freelands Road and the northern and western boundaries of Ratho Hall grounds, then turns east along the southern bank of the Union Canal. It proceeds south-west until it intersects with Main Street, continuing west along the south side of the street, then turning south and east along the rear of the Main Street properties until it reaches Dalmahoy Road. The boundary continues in an easterly direction along the southern boundary of the village to join Ratho Park Road, turns north along the eastern boundary of the playing fields and then across the Union Canal to Freelands Road.
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BOUNDARY OF RATHO CONSERVATION AREA
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HISTORICAL ORIGINS AND DEVELOPMENT
Origins
There have been settlements in the vicinity of Ratho since pre-historic times. Recent excavations have discovered Neolithic and Bronze Age artefacts in the area. The earliest historical reference to Ratho dates from the late 12th century and relates to the Barony of Ratho and Bathgate, which was centred on the area now know as Ratho Park Golf Club. Approximately 100 years later, Alexander III repurchased the Barony lands. Later the Barony featured in the dowries of Margaret, the daughter of Alexander III and of Marjorie Bruce. With the ascension of Robert II to the throne, the lands along with other estates, became the property of the heir to the throne. In 1404, these estates became a principality with regal jurisdiction. Ratho remained in royal possession until 1660 when Charles II sold the estate to Alexander Foulis of Colinton.
The parish church is the oldest building in the Conservation Area. It is probable that worship took place on the site of Ratho parish church in the days of the Celtic Church long before the Norman period, and in 1243 a church was dedicated to St Mary.
Ratho was largely an agricultural settlement, with distilling and corn grinding being the main activities, until the arrival of the Union Canal, which was constructed between 1818 and 1822. Designed by the engineer Hugh Baird, the canal was an important part of the infrastructure of Central Scotland until the opening of the Edinburgh-Glasgow railway line in 1842. The canal was inspired by the completion of the Forth and Clyde Canal and was seen as an appropriate way of transporting heavy goods between Glasgow and Edinburgh, while opening up the coal districts to the west of Edinburgh. The canal had a direct influence on the prosperity of Ratho by opening a means of transport for quarrying. Ratho and Craigpark Quarries expanded at this time.
The canal soon provided a passenger service as well as goods transportation. During the 1820s and 30s Scotland’s roads were poor quality and the journey between Glasgow and Edinburgh by coach was an unpleasant experience. The Bridge Inn at Ratho provided sustenance to canal travellers while horses were changed at the ‘change house’ on the opposite side of the bridge. The passenger service began to decline when the first railway service opened between Glasgow and Edinburgh in the 1840s.
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In the 20th century, the canal gradually lost its goods traffic due to the ever- increasing use of road transport. Baird Road, which runs north-south through the village, was formerly known as “Ludgate” (or road to the church) being the road that connected the village to the church.
Development of the Village
In the 19th century, Ratho developed in a linear form along the main through routes. The traditional building form at that time was terraced, single storey, whinstone cottages with long, narrow rear plots and minimal garden area to the front. The former Smithy was situated to the north of the primary school and the Bridge Inn, dating from the early 19th century, completed the western side of Baird Road. Ludgate House, Lodge and grounds were located immediately south of Baird Road on Main Street. The settlement spread westwards along Main Street with the majority of buildings comprising one or two storey terraced dwellings.
All original buildings on the west side of Baird Road were demolished in the mid-20th century, with the exception of the Bridge Inn. The dwellings on the east side remain virtually intact. The majority of the original buildings on Main Street up to Dalmahoy Road have been preserved, and sections of the western end of Main Street were redeveloped for housing in the early 20th century.
The location of Ratho village in relation to Edinburgh city centre and service sector centres in West Lothian has attracted significant private housing development for commuters. The area between Ratho Park Road and the Union Canal to the east of the village core was developed for private housing in the 1970s and 80s. At the opposite end of Ratho there is an extensive area of former local authority development along North Street, erected post-war until the 1970s. Earlier 20th century public sector housing is interspersed with surviving mid to late 19th century dwellings on the north side of Main Street. The outer west area is occupied by private cul-de-sac housing developments contemporary with the modern housing estate at the east end. The new primary school and community centre are located to the north of the modern housing at the west end and are surrounded by an extensive area of green open space.
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ANALYSIS AND ESSENTIAL CHARACTER
Overview
The village as a whole fits neatly into its countryside setting. Its layout responds to the topography which consists of two ridges and a valley, along which runs the canal.
The Conservation Area has two distinct settlement patterns: one running along an east to west axis on top of the southern ridge. It is compact, linear and ‘L’ shaped comprising the historic core. The other, to the north, lies on a south-facing slope. It is organic and semi-rural where rich landscape and well-separated substantial buildings interplay with each other.
Spatial Structure
Spatial Structure
Conservation area Domestic linear settlement pattern Organic settlement pattern
Opp. env. improvement sites Built form Union Canal ‘L’ shape street
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The main structure of the Conservation Area comprises the following elements:
The Union Canal, two intersecting spine streets with contrasting layout and the organic and informal settlement pattern fitting into the strong landscape background.
The Union Canal, which lies at the valley bottom physically bisects the historic area but also helps to connect visually the two contrasting built environments located to each of its sides. It provides a strong focus to the village both visually and functionally.
To the south the historic linear core evolved into a ‘L’ shaped street (when intercepted by Baird Road) which terminates at the ‘Bridge Inn’ where the space opens up into a car park facing new redevelopment. The stone bridge marks the end of this section of the Conservation Area. The compact and human scaled spatial pattern provides a low rise intimate street environment along most of its length.
To the north the village presents a contrasting organic pattern with well separated individual buildings, or groups, placed at different levels on the south- facing slope. They are well integrated into the landscape setting and enclosed by the woodland area at the top of the ridge.
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Townscape
Townscape
Focal Point Gateway/Landmark Vista Glimpse
Stop end Activity Quiet Intrusion Approach
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Approaches
There are three main entrances to the Conservation Area, from the south, north and west. Each approach indicates in different visual ways that a special area is about to be entered.
From the south, and in the distance, the image of a clear linear edge between town and country is perceived. The road crosses the Green Belt, and encounters a handful of mixed buildings, some pleasing vernacular ones to both sides of the street and set at different angles to it.
The road ends in a ‘T’ junction. Here a traditional building (the former Masonic Lodge) provides a strong stop end to the street view.
From the west, the approach is through some modern housing development, but, well before the road encounters the Conservation Area, St Mary’s RC Church signals, highlights and helps to frame the streetscape of the historic row of cottages on the south side of the street beyond.
From the north, the road slopes up gently to a crest marked by a sharp turn in the road. Here it encounters a group of buildings including the Manse and the St Mary’s Parish Church complex beyond, which form an unusual and attractive ‘gateway’ to this part of the Conservation Area. Further south the stone bridge provides glimpses of the canal, to the west, and, with the “Inn”, establish a transitional pointer between the two contrasting environments of the historic village.
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Streetscape
The western part of Main Street up to the ‘T’ junction is characterised by mainly one storey vernacular cottages which step up and down following the levels of the ground and the undulation of the road. Facing them there is post-war local authority housing of a variety of types and ages. Although not great in architectural design much of its scale, mass, height, and materials fit comfortably with the historic group of buildings opposite. Together they provide enclosure and help retain the close knit intimacy in the street.
To the east of Main Street, beyond the ‘T’ junction, the streetscape differs. Most of the buildings to the north side have wider frontages, are two storeys high and some sit at the heel of a fairly wide pavement, while others have small front gardens bounded by low stone walls. A high stone wall largely dominates the south side of the street with strong vegetation behind defining the boundary to Ludgate House, and bringing the landscape into the eastern core of the Conservation Area. The far end of the street is marked by the historic former schoolhouse, which provides a strong visual stop as the road turns sharply to the north.
In general, the built up area of Main Street still reflects the original settlement pattern with its narrow footprints, deep plots of different widths and shapes, although predominantly rectangular. Some small gaps and lanes in between buildings provide access and glimpses to the rear gardens, buildings behind or the countryside beyond. A degree of permeability is captured through these.
The mixture of heights, varied silhouette and offset rhythm of the buildings enhance the general townscape. The boundary treatment also adds variety having small walled front gardens in some places while in others buildings abut directly onto the pavement.
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Small details such as low boundary walls, some with railings above, trees, shrubs, and hedges add softening touches to the streetscene.
The amenity green strip and central footpath in front of the council housing contributes to the individuality of the western part of the street.
Baird Road is different. It does not have the compactness of Main Street except on one side of the southern end where the line of historic cottages sits.
The recent redevelopment of the frontage on the west side, and the part facing the ‘Bridge Inn’ car park, do not reflect the historic layout and introduce a more open feel to this part of the street. It lacks enclosure and a sense of place, which most other parts of the Conservation Area have.
Looking westwards from the ‘Inn” and car park the school bulk intrudes into the landscape setting. The rear of the council housing along the ridge does not add to the quality of the environment. The landscaping on the southern land in the foreground has not reached maturity, in contrast looking north the views towards the countryside are very pleasing. There may be opportunities here for development and environmental improvements to add definition, enclosure and fit into the wider context of the area.
The listed ‘Bridge Inn’ and the stone bridge mark the change between the linear settlement and the loose knit, dispersed semi-rural environment. Beyond them to the north sits the ‘A’ listed Church complex. The car park opposite also fails to produce a sense of enclosure. It detracts from the otherwise fine environment surrounding the historic complex. This area needs some attention for future environmental improvements.
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There are many attractive views along Baird Street and across the canal. To the north, views of the historic buildings set within the landscape and framed by the woodland behind are impressive. To the east, views over the bridge along the canal reach out beyond the immediate countryside towards the centre of Edinburgh. In the far distance the Castle and Arthur’s seat are noticeable.
Both ends of Baird Road play important roles visually. At the south, Ludgate Lodge ends the vista and at the north the curve, rise, and bend of the road visually unify the Manse and adjacent buildings with the church complex as an attractive end to the village.
Finally other distinct character elements include the hard and crisply defined edges of the village. Some well-established tree lines and clusters at the north and south mark these.
To the east the playing fields help to separate the historic core from the modern suburban housing.
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Essential Character
• The Conservation Area fits well into its landscape setting.
• The built form still reflects the essence of the original settlement pattern.
• Its core is predominantly a linear form.
• The scale of the Conservation Area is essentially domestic and intimate.
• The historic buildings form strong visual stops, landmarks, focal points and gateways.
• There are powerful and clear divisions between town and country at the built-up edges.
• The Union Canal provides both a definitional and unifying role.
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Architectural Character
The character of Ratho Conservation Area has been shaped by the development of the village from a small agricultural parish, to a village on a major industrial corridor, to its present form as a historic village, with the Union Canal as a visitor attraction and modern commuter housing on the periphery.
The historic core of Ratho lies to the south of the Union Canal and is based around an “L” shaped layout. Its character is derived from the organic street pattern and the vernacular style and near-continuous rhythm of one and two storey cottages which follow the natural topography of the land. Pedestrian lanes to rear plots and a mature tree belt on the south side of Main Street form breaks within this street pattern.
The predominant building form in the village core is small-scale, vernacular style, picturesque, mainly 3-bay, semi-detached and terraced cottages, dating from the early to mid 19th century. Simple pitched roof forms with ashlar skews are punctuated with apex and centre ridge chimney stacks, and are uncluttered by dormer extensions. There is a general homogeneity of building materials due to the use of distinctive locally quarried squared and coursed whinstone with sandstone margins and quoins, rubble sandstone gables with buff sandstone margins and grey Scots slate roofs.
The buildings typically include vertically proportioned, timber sash and case windows with a variety of traditional glazing patterns, and comparatively higher ratio of solid to void. Front doors are generally boarded timber with narrow letterbox fanlights. Architectural elements which contribute to the vernacular and picturesque character, include triangular pediments above doors, pilastered doorpieces, and half-piended side additions.
Minimal front gardens are enclosed by dwarf stone walls with raised gatepiers, creating a formal division between public and private space. Long, narrow rear plots surrounded by high, rubble stone boundary walls are typical of the village core. The streetscape is generally uncluttered due to a lack of street furniture and simple pavement and road surfaces that do not detract from the historic and vernacular character.
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Baird Road and Main Street include buildings of distinctive forms and architectural styles. Baird Road contains mainly single storey, semi-detached cottages with grey slate roofs. The buildings on Main Street are a mixture of one and two storey, several with red clay pantiled roofs, and unusual semi-circular coped, front dwarf walls which sweep upwards at the edges
Prominent buildings of individual historic and architectural merit on corner sites and road junctions provide village landmarks and variety to the homogeneous streetscape. These include:
• 58-60 Main Street, a category B listed two storey, symmetrical house, unusual in its construction detailing of squared Aberdeen Bond whinstone and distinctive central three doors with a corbelled, advanced centrepiece above;
• the B listed former Masonic Lodge at 62-64 Main Street, which is the earliest surviving building in the village core and forms a prominent feature, emphasised by the display of the Lauderdale Coat of Arms and its white-painted harled walls, at the junction of Dalmahoy Road;
• the Tudor style, C(S) listed buildings which form a gateway to Baird Road from the south, comprising the distinctive former Schoolhouse at No. 2 with a tripartite window in its tall gabled bay, and the former Lodge of Ludgate House by William Burn, dating from circa 1840; and
• the group of single storey, ‘B’ listed cottages at 4-14 Baird Road, which were the result of improvements in the early 19th century.
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The section of the Conservation Area north of the Union Canal remains essentially rural in character. The character of this area is greatly influenced by a small number of key buildings of historic and architectural significance. These include:
• the category A listed, Romanesque St Mary’s Parish Church which has a particularly dominant presence and is of importance as the first documented building in Ratho. It occupies a significant location forming a gateway to the historic village;
• Kirkton Farm which is significant as the former malting house. It maintains its appearance as a farmstead, despite the past industrial use and recent conversion to residential;
• the category B listed, former Manse, dating from 1803, occupying a prominent site which is clearly visible from the Union Canal; and
• Ratho Hall, a category A listed, early 19th century, rectangular-plan, classical style villa, which is an unusually complete and well-finished house for this age and stands, along with its stables and doocot, within its formal landscape setting;
The distinctive building materials in this northern section of the Conservation Area are black whin and buff sandstone. The predominant roofing material is grey Scots slate.
The Union Canal demarcates the line between the predominantly rural northern section of Ratho and the main built up area to the south. The canal is a Scheduled Ancient Monument and forms a distinctive and architecturally important grouping with the statutorily listed (Category ‘B’) bridge and Bridge Inn. This grouping constitutes the main focal point of the Conservation Area.
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Essential Character
• Strong representation of vernacular development within the village core reflecting Ratho’s history as a rural settlement.
• Predominant building form of small- scale vernacular cottages with simple pitched roofs providing a unified character in the village core.
• Consistency in the use of traditional building materials (stone, harl, and Scots slates) which contribute to the unified architectural character of the village core.
• Vernacular and picturesque architectural elements.
• Minimal front gardens and stone boundary walls in the core.
• An uncluttered streetscape.
• A number of prominent buildings which provide village landmarks.
• The limited number of key historic buildings which provide a focus in the area north of the Union Canal.
• The importance of the architectural grouping at the Bridge Inn.
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Activities and Uses
Ratho is a predominantly residential area, including a considerable amount of former local authority housing at the western end of the village. The majority of dwellings are family units and owner-occupied. The Castle Rock Housing Association has developed the site of the former primary school on Baird Road for sheltered housing, incorporating a doctor’s surgery.
Several shops and two public houses serve the local community, although there is an increasing attraction to Edinburgh city centre and the western suburbs for shopping and leisure facilities. The village also has two churches, a new primary school, community hall and library, and a creche. A pre-cast concrete works is located north of the village off Baird Road. However, the majority of residents commute to work in Edinburgh and major commercial centres in West Lothian. The adjoining Green Belt land is predominantly productive farmland.
The Union Canal is an important amenity facility and focus for recreational activities. Leisure trips on the canal have maintained the waterway in use and the Bridge Inn continues to serve canal users. The canal provides facilities for rowing, canoeing, cruising, walking, cycling and fishing. A reception centre and dry dock have been developed by the Seagull Trust, which provides barge trips and holidays for disabled people.
Ratho is well located adjacent to the Union Canal to contribute to, and benefit from, the Millennium Link Project which proposes reinstating the link between the Union Canal and the Forth and Clyde Canal and is likely to significantly increase activity on the Canal.
Essential Character
• Prevalence of residential use.
• The importance of the Union Canal as an amenity facility.
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Natural Heritage
Ratho Conservation Area is bounded largely by agricultural fields which are an important element of its landscape setting and this containment within a rural setting provides a strong sense of place. The Union Canal is central to the Conservation Area and is a key landscape element and important amenity space that reinforces the rural character of the area.
The mature tree belts between the Lodge and No. 45 Main Street and around the development at Ludgate Lodge contribute to the rural setting and continues the line of street enclosure. The playing fields on Ratho Park Road, have been the centre for many village activities and makes an important contribution to open space provision in this part of the Conservation Area.
The wooded area to the north of the canal around Ratho Hall, the former Ratho Quarry and Kirkton Farm is an area of outstanding landscape quality and is protected by a Tree Preservation Order. The views from the village to the northern bank which comprise open ground surrounding Ratho Hall, Kirkton Farm and St Mary’s Church provides an open rural backdrop to the village. Of equal importance are the views to the village on the southern bank of the canal, highlighting the village’s setting on the ridge and the long southern views to the Pentland Hills from the north side of Main Street along Dalmahoy Road.
Essential Character
• The strong sense of place and general tranquillity derived from the containment within a rural setting.
• The key landscape feature of the Union Canal.
• The far-reaching and prominent views.
• The importance of the existing wooded areas and playing fields to the landscape setting of the Conservation Area.
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OPPORTUNITIES FOR ENHANCEMENT
The following pressures are associated with development proposals which conservation area designation, together with the statutory and non-statutory policies of the Council, are designed to manage:
• new development which affects the setting of buildings, garden spaces and boundary walls;
• development and alterations which affect the traditional architectural character and are out of, scale with the rural setting of the Conservation Area; and
• loss of mature trees and planting of trees which fail to provide the appropriate scale, shelter and natural.
New development will require to be of appropriate architectural quality and relate in mass, scale, outline and character to the existing village fabric. The construction materials should be stone for walls and chimneys and either Scotch slate or clay pantiles for the roof.
The timber fencing to the car parking is particularly out of character where stone boundary walls are the norm within the Conservation Area. An environmental improvement scheme using more appropriate materials would enhance the setting of Church, War Memorial and car park.
The Bridge Inn car park is an unenclosed area effectively presenting a gap in Baird Road. An environmental improvement scheme to soften and enclose the car parking would close off and reduce the impact of the car park.
The school and housing development on the south side of the canal and just outside the Conservation Area boundary occupy a prominent position in terms of views. The south banks would be considerably enhanced by planting a tree belt to screen out the school and adjacent housing.
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Boundaries
Amendments to the present Conservation Area boundary are proposed in the Rural West Edinburgh Local Plan. The proposed eastern boundary would follow the line of the rear of Baird Road cottages, omitting the playing fields, then cross the Union Canal, taking a northerly line to incorporate the burial ground to the north of Freelands Road. The area around the former Ludgate Lodge is proposed for deletion, as the house and grounds have recently been developed for housing, which has affected the setting of the house. The proposed removal of the playing fields from the Conservation Area was criticised during the public consultation, and the boundary of the Conservation Area will be the subject of further consideration.
Role of the Public
It is essential that property owners accept their maintenance responsibilities. The emphasis should be on the repair rather than replacement of original features, as these contribute to the Conservation Area’s character as a whole. Alterations or additions should be sympathetic to the original style and of an appropriate scale.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Statutory Policies
The Ratho, Newbridge & Kirkliston Local Plan (1985) identifies Ratho Village as a Conservation Area and seeks to ensure the conservation and enhancement of the historic townscape, and its buildings of architectural quality and historic interest.
More recent guidance in the Finalised Rural West Local Plan aims to reinforce Ratho’s historic character, identity, and visual interest. It recognises the erosion of character and loss of features that has gradually occurred as a result of unsympathetic development, and seeks to reverse this trend.
The local plan defines the boundary of the Conservation Area, and also identifies Green Belt land, areas of open space and nature conservation, as well as land covered by Tree Preservation Orders.
It also contains policy advice on:
• The retention of original features such as walls and railings, trees and gardens, and even the pattern of Ratho’s streets and open spaces.
• The need for high quality design and use of traditional building materials in new developments, and in alterations and extensions.
• The redevelopment of existing buildings considered by their appearance to be detrimental to the Conservation Area.
• Development that would normally be permitted, but in the Conservation Area requires Planning Permission.
• The location of Guest Houses.
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Supplementary Guidelines
The Council also produces supplementary planning guidance on a range of development control issues. These are contained within the Development Quality Handbook.
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Implications of Conservation Area Status
Designation as a conservation area has the following implications:
* Permitted development rights under the General Development Order are restricted. Planning permission is, therefore, required for stonecleaning, external painting, roof alterations and the formation of hard surfaces. The area of extensions to dwelling houses which may be erected without consent is also restricted to 16m2 and there are additional controls over satellite dishes.
* Under Article 4 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, the planning authority can seek approval of the Scottish Executive for Directions that restrict permitted development rights. The Directions effectively control the proliferation of relatively minor alterations to buildings in conservation areas that can cumulatively lead to erosion of character and appearance. Development is not precluded, but such alterations will require planning permission and special attention will be paid to the potential effect of proposals. The Ratho Conservation Area is covered by Article 4 directions covering the following classes of development:
1 enlargement, improvement or other alteration of a dwelling house;
3 provision or alteration of buildings or enclosures within the curtilage of a dwelling house;
6 installation, alteration or replacement of satellite antennae;
7 construction or alteration of gates, fences, walls or other means of enclosure.
The Rural West Edinburgh Local Plan proposes the introduction of Article 4 directions covering the following additional classes of development:
18 agricultural;
30 + 33 local authority development;
38, 39, + 40 water, gas, and electricity;
67 telecommunications.
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• Special attention must be paid to the character and appearance of the conservation area when planning controls are being exercised. Most applications for planning permission for alterations will, therefore, be advertised for public comment and any views expressed must be taken into account when making a decision on the application.
• Buildings that are not statutorily listed can normally be demolished without approval under the Planning Regulations. Within conservation areas the demolition of unlisted buildings requires conservation area consent.
• Alterations to windows are controlled in terms of the Council’s policy.
• Trees within conservation areas are covered by the Town and Country (Scotland) Act 1972, as amended by the Town and Country Planning (Scotland) Act 1997. The Act applies to the uprooting, felling or lopping of a tree having a diameter exceeding 75mm at a point 1.5m above ground level, and concerns the lopping of trees as much as removal. The planning authority must be given six weeks notice of the intention to uproot, fell or lop trees. Failure to give notice render the person liable to the same penalties as for contravention of a TPO.
• Grants may be available towards the repair or restoration of historic building The Council runs a conservation grant scheme. Such grants are normally dependent on comprehensive repair and restoration of original features and priority is given to tenemental housing and prominent buildings.
29 This document is available on request in Braille, tape, large print various computer formats and community languages. Please contact ITS on 0131 242 8181 and quote ref. 02246/1. For additional English copies please contact Marilyn Robertson on 0131 529 3900.
Andrew M Holmes Director of City Development The City of Edinburgh Council 1 Cockburn Street Edinburgh EH1 1ZJ
Produced by the City Development Department : Planning & Strategy